What oil pour into the VAZ 21213 carburetor. Applied (operational) fluids and filling volumes

11.10.2019

Replacing engine oil is a mandatory component of the competent operation of any car. The timely change of working fluid and oil filter allow you to maintain the engine in the optimal state, providing its long-term and trouble-free operation. Because the owners of this SUV of domestic production arises a logical question of how oil pouring into "Niva 21214" with an injector, how much it is required and how to independently perform the replacement procedure. Often to contact the car service does not make sense, because the task is not difficult. It is enough to have a minimum set of tools and some skills. The basis for successful work will be the oil itself for the engine "Niva".

For replacement in the VAZ 2121 Niva Engine, seasonal oil should be used.

Replacement frequency

If you look into the official manual from the automaker in the face of AvtoVAZ, you will see the numbers of 10 thousand kilometers there. That is, the plant is advised to change liquid In the power unit at least once every 10 thousand km. But you, as an experienced or novice car owner, should understand that the calculation is made on the basis of averaged values. It all depends on the conditions in which the car is operated. Since Niva 21214 is an all-wheel drive SUV, a machine is usually used in fairly extreme conditions. On the characteristics of the oil in the engine affects a number negative factors:

pollution and dusting of roads;
hilly terrain, bad roads;
operation under constant loads (cargo transportation, riding with a trailer);
the use of cheap oil species;
low-quality fuel;
aggressive driving manner;
sharp climate change and pr.

Because of this, the actual frequency of oil replacement in Niva is reduced by about 2 times compared with the manufacturer recommended. Owners "Niva 21214" should be changed to the consumor approximately every 5 - 6 thousand kilometers or once a year. Relieve yourself from what comes before. This is the optimal period of time, because the oil is already beginning to wear out, but does not lose completely its physicochemical properties. If you continue to go further on the old lubricant, it will turn the overheating of the motor, the occurrence of friction between the parts and the final way out of the engine or its individual nodes.

Similarly, things are with oil filter. The standard filter element allows you to use it for 10 to 12 thousand kilometers. But the filter suffers from the same negative factors as oil itself, as they are closely related. In theory, it is able to withstand 2 oil replacements, but from the position of the engine preservation, it is better for each change of lubricating fluid to change the filter itself. He is not so expensive.

Select Oil

For "Niva 21214" is not so difficult. But here you need to know some nuances to prevent widespread errors. Let's start with the pore threshold. Not every car owner knows what to pour oil into the engine of his "Niva", if summer or winter on the street. Summer is hot weather, because engines passenger cars Under such conditions heated strongly. "Niva 21214" is an all-wheel drive SUV, and its motor warms up even more. Therefore, many allow one and the same mistake by pouring mineral on the summer or semi-synthetic oil. So that the engine worked effectively and did not overheat, experts recommend using high-quality synthetics.

If the lubricant in the power unit has a slight percentage of viscosity, the expected effect from it is not worth waiting. When the cylinder block is heated, similar oils on consistency are approaching conventional water and their temperature is growing rapidly. Therefore, the lubrication will no longer select heat in the engine, performing a cooling function, and will not be able to create the desired pressure. Work in this mode will lead to the rapid crankshaft.

Because the manufacturer and experienced car owners themselves advise to pour into the "Niva" engine, as in the motors of Shevi Niva (Chevrolet) engine oils with a viscosity of 20W40, but not higher than 25W50. These are the optimal viscosity parameters in which the crankshaft can function normally and do not create excess load. So the "Niva" engine will not be heated above its required operating temperature In 95 degrees Celsius. Now to the question of what oil is to fill in "Niva" for the winter. The manufacturer focuses on what winter oils must have some characteristics. They should not be:

highly liquid (otherwise ice film is formed from the cold);
over dense (otherwise the crankshaft will not be able to scroll when it starts a cold motor).

It is better to pour the oil into the engine that corresponds to the viscosity parameters at least 0W40 and the maximum 0W50. The bay of such a liquid into the engine in winter, when the temperature drops by a maximum of up to -40 degrees, the starter can easily cope with the scrolling of the crankshaft. Viscosity is not very high, and even low temperature mode It does not hurt the start of the motor. Knowing which oil is better pouring in different periods, you will be able to maintain optimal work power aggregate. But there is a "Niva" his pitfalls regarding lubricant. Must be seasonal.

After all, another common mistake is that popular all-season compositions are poured into engines 21214. Car owners justify this by their economy. But in fact, serious problems often arise because of such liquids often arise.

Refuse semi-synthetic oils. Yes, such mixtures are expensive and have similar characteristics with synthetics. But even the high price and identical inscriptions on the package do not allow semi-synthetic to get the same properties that synthetic oils possess.

Manufacturers

In terms of the choice of manufacturers, each owner "Niva 21214" itself decides how expensive or budget oil to use. The market formed their leaders who offer high-quality compositions for almost any cars, including the All-wheel drive SUV today. But the only problem may be high price. If such an opportunity is, then the engine "Niva 21214" is to fill oils of such manufacturers:

Shell;
Mobil;
XADO;
LUKOIL.

If you want to use something more affordable, but at the same time not to risk in terms of quality and efficiency of work lubricating fluids For the engine, then pay attention to such manufacturers:

Castrol;
Valvoline;
KIXX.

They are recommended by many specialists, because they are well shown in practice. The main thing is to choose those compositions for Niva 21214, which correspond to the physicochemical specifications necessary for its power unit.

Instructions for replacement

It will be logical to learn, VAZ "Niva 21214" and how much needs to be purchased motor fluid. If we talk about the volume of flooded fluid, then it is 3.75 liters for the "Niva" engine. The actual volume of oil in the engine is usually smaller than the one that is specified in the car's passport data. This is due to the fact that when draining testing, part of the oil still remains in the system. 100% clean the motor is almost impossible on its own. Take oil with a margin, but small. Better to take canister high-quality lubricant 5 liters This will pour the full volume into the crankcase, plus periodically add it as the level changes.

Planned oil replacement in the engines "Shevi Niva" and "VAZ Niva 21214" perform approximately with the same frequency. The procedure itself is standard, complies with some general rules and security measures.

To work, you will need to collect some materials and tools. This list includes:

fresh engine oil in the desired quantity;
empty container where the development will be merged;
fully funnel;
fuel filter;
hexagon on 12 or key to 17;
cutter for the oil filter (you can do without it);
observation pit;
rag;
lighting;
overalls (gloves, closed shoes, dense clothing).

If everything is ready for you, you can start work. Be sure to follow the instructions in stages, do not hurry and do not try to unscrew or twist something with a lot of strength. Otherwise, you risk breaking some details, which will lead to more expensive repairs. We start, in parallel changing and filter.

Install the car on watching pitTo have convenient access to the bottom, where the pallet with butter is located. Pre-engine should be warm up so that the oil acquires a more liquid structure and can be easily drained from the pallet.
If you got the engine at idle, wait a few minutes so that the whole liquid glass down. In the procession space, you can still unscrew bay cork. This will allow oil faster to break down.
Carefully unscrew the drain plug. It happens different typesTherefore, the hexagon or key can be useful for its dismantling. Before you start unscrew the plug, substitute an empty container under it. Turn off completely and allow the oil to drain. It will take about 10 to 15 minutes. Therefore, parallel to make an oil filter.
If the oil comes out very dirty, then many debris of garbage, chips and dirt will remain in the system. With this state, it is recommended to rinse the engine. For this, special additives, flushing mixes or fresh oil are used.
There are additives that are simply added to the filling neck, while there is still old lubricant there, the engine is started and allowed to work within a few minutes. Then devoured and all together are removed from the pallet.
Option C. washing oil Or the usual motor fresh butter looks different. First, the old liquid merges, then the drain plug is closed, poured fresh oil, turn on the engine and with idle turns it works 5 to 10 minutes. Now the pallet tube is again unscrewed and drained. With a strongly contaminated motor, it is recommended to repeat the procedure 2 - 3 times. It takes a lot of oil, but the engine acquires a new life.
Only after full flushing old filter Dismantle, and the new one is installed in its place. The filter is unscrewed by a removal, manually or a girlfriend. The remnant is most convenient, but not always have a car owner. Be careful not to damage the connected nozzles, wiring. For security reasons, it is better to remove a minus terminal with AKB.
Holes for drain plug and filter Clean the contamination if there are contaminants. Otherwise, they can enter fresh engine fluid.
Before feeding, check the plug gasket, replace it if necessary. The filter seal is lubricated with oil, and the engine fluid is poured by 50% of the volume of the new filter. Now you can install them in place.
Make sure that the filter and plug tightly rose to their places, and there were no leaks through them.
Go to K. okrug concrete spacewhere with the help of a funnel through the bay neck pour fresh composition. Pour at first about 3.5 liters, because the oil portion remained in the system. Close the lid, run the engine on idling Within 2 - 3 minutes.
Turn off the motor, give oil drain. Take the dipstick and check the level. The trail of the oil film must remain between the MIN and MAX marks. If the level is closer to the minimum value, open the lid again, fill out a little more lubricant and repeat the procedure.

When you start the car, the oil pressure lamp will turn around. It is not scary, it always happens. The indicator will go out a few seconds. Within the next few days, make sure that your "Niva" behaves. Check if there is no freight oil under the machine. Leaks may occur because of the poorly installed filter or drain plug. Tighten the connections and re-check the level.

The owners of the VAZ Niva 21214 car are recommended to periodically monitor the oil level, pour it as needed and responding quickly if the liquid changes its color sharply, becomes muddy, its flow rate increases or the engine is overheated. Such signs indicate not only for leakage. There is a chance that you incorrectly chosen the oil or there are malfunctions in the engine, which are not removed by a simple replacement of consumables. It will be necessary to seek qualified help.

Many machine owners face a task when it is necessary to produce that (maintenance) of the car. At the same time, someone fulfills the service with their own hands and enjoys the repair, and at the same time saves their money, some prefer to spend money (so as not to get dirty and not messing) drive a car in a car service, blindly trusting his iron horse Foreign people.
And, by the way, the replacement of oil VAZ 21213, as in other models is a responsible process and from the right and timely execution of it directly depends on the service life of all aggregates of the car! The process of replacement is simply elementary, not much occupied, everyone can perform independently.

Engine

Replace the lubricant in the engine the elementary process, which is performed by the regulations or every 10 thousand km of run, or every two years - depending on what comes before in your case.

So:

Replacement of lubrication should be carried out in a timely manner, the engine resource to overhaul directly depends on
The replacement procedure is best done on a warm engine
It is recommended to fill with the lubricant of the brand, which fled at the previous one into the engine
If we decided to change the brand of oil, or do not know (forgotten), which brand was used when replaced, it is necessary to rinse the entire system of the motor lubrication with washing oil, or the lubricant of the brand, which will be used further
To rinse the engine, drain the old lubricant, as described below, and pour the washing, to the lower tag of the level of the level pointer
Then we start the engine for 10 minutes, after which we drain the washing lubrication

ATTENTION: This procedure (flushing) is performed with an old filter!

Work tool

It:

Funnel
The key to "17" or a hexagon on "12" (depending on which cork is installed in your pallet)
New
Pure rubbish
Special filter puller (many without him do)
Canister of the new oil volume of at least four liters
Empty capacity for testing is also more than four liters
Estacade or observation pit

To replace the lubricant in the engine, the instruction prescribes such actions:

We heat the car on the pit or the overpass
Be sure to strike the car in the parking brake
You can additionally put under the wheels of the shoe or boards (so that the machine is not picked)
Heating the machine of the machine to 50-60 degrees to the minimum so that the lubricant was more fluid
We substitute the drain container and unscrew the cork

We merge the work on the prepared empty container

We continue to merge a lubricant about ten minutes (so that the glass as much as possible)
Twist a drain plug back
If you have conceived, wash the motor - see the actions described above

ATTENTION: There are about 150-200 grams of lubricant in the filter housing, unscrewing it, substitute the test capacity

Remover, or by other screwdrivers (screwdriver, or simply with hands), unscrew the oil filter

When choosing a motor oil, pay attention to its viscosity
The manufacturer's plant regulates viscosity or 5W-30, or 5W-40
In addition, the oil is used mineral, or a semi-synthetic (when using synthetic, in VAZ engines, it seeps through the glands and flows gradually)
We definitely lubricate the sealing gasket of our new filter with fresh butter, in addition, pour it into the filter, about half of the volume (which will save the engine parts from rotation to dry in the first seconds of work)

Hour a filter on the fitting, drag on 3/4 turns manually from the moment of touches the gasket to the cylinder block
Remove the cover with the oil-colored neck
To monitor the amount of oil poured, get the dipstick - level pointer
A sufficient level of lubricant on the probe is located in the middle, between "Min" and "Max"

Run the engine, wait when dashboard Rogs red lubricant pressure lamp, stop the engine
We again check the dipstick level of oil, pour if it is necessary

That's all, completed, this unit requires the most frequent replacementIn boxes and bridges, the replacement is less common, but do not forget to check its level in all aggregates, otherwise the issue price will be repaired and replaced.

Transmission

The gearbox is the most stable part of the car. CPP breakdowns happen less often than other parts of the machine.
The main factor that supports the gearbox in working condition is the quality of oil poured into it. The gearbox is applied to the power transmission to the drive wheels from the engine, by changing the gear ratio, and ensure the stable mode of operation of the motor in different conditions of movement.
VAZ 21213 is made after 60 thousand kilometers. And every 20,000 kilometers it is necessary to check its level in the gearbox and tosses, if necessary.
The normal lubrication level in the CPP crankcase is at the edge of the bulk hole.

Instruments

It:

Key on "17"
Hexagon on "12"
Rag
Capacity for testing
Syringe, for pouring oil

The replacement procedure occurs in this order:

We perform work, drove the car on the pit, the overpass, or the lift
Previously need to warm the chassis, passing about ten kilometers
Using the hexagon on "12", unscrew the drain plug, drain the lubricant into the prepared in advance capacity

After the glass lubricant, we turn the tube magnet from dirt and metal particles and screw it back

Now unscrew the filler tube using the key to "17"

Flip a new syringe to the bottom edge of our bay hole (in the photo the front cardan is removed for clarity)

Twist back the fuel plug

On this, the oil change in the VAZ 21213 box is finished, without any difficulties.

Transfer case

The dispensing box transfers the torque from the engine to the rear and front bridge, allows you to enable both bridges at the same time, or one of two if necessary.

Tool

It:

Hexagon on "12"
Rag
Tube (lever To make it easier to rotate the hexagon)
Capacity for spent lubrication
Maslocking syringe

The oil change is performed simultaneously with the checkpoint, after 60 thousand kilometers.
Replacement procedure:

Performed on the lift, the overpass or pit
Pre-warming the transmission, passing less than 10 kilometers
Hexagon on "12" unscrew the cork and drain the spent lubricant

Clean the plug magnet, screw it back
Then the same hexagon is unscrewed the fuel plug

Syringe pour new oil

Checking the level - Nora Lower edge of the filling hole
Be sure to clean the sapun from the dirt, which is located on the side of the back cardan (Sapuna for clarity is shown on the shot box)

On this with the replacement of lubrication in dispensing box everything.

Rear axle

It changes every 60,000 mileage kilometers as in the gearbox. Check the lubrication level in the crankcase every 20,000 mileage kilometers tighten if necessary.
A sufficient level of lubricant reaches the edge of the bulk hole. When checking the level, do not forget to clean the sapun from the dirt just like for a handout box.
Tool:

Caid key on "17"
Key to "13"
Syringe ulnochetic
Rag
Hexagon on "12"
Capacity for testing

Sequence of procedure:

Work is performed on the pit, lift either overpass
Pre-heating the bridge, driving about ten kilometers
Hex key to "12" turn the drain plug
We drain the oil into the prepared container

Clean the magnet of the tube with a winding from dirt and metal particles and tighten it back
We unscrew the filler plug on the "17"
Pour new oil with a syringe to the edge of the bulk hole

Screw the filler plug
We unscrew the Sapun to the "13"
Resto the Sapun, screw it into place

Congratulations, the replacement of oil on the VAZ 21213 is successfully completed, now you can independently spend your car. Additionally you can watch the video about each unit separately.

VAZ NIVA car conceived as a car for the village, designed for driving in off-road. Constant front-wheel drivecarrying the body, independent suspension and comfortable salon - such features of the talented Soviet designers in the distant 1970 decided to equip new carwho later became the first representative of the class of SUVs. And although now the Niva is removed from production, she is still loved by drivers for a fight character that can overcome obstacles.

The oil that ensures the coordinated operation of the composite mechanisms and structures must correspond to the parameters of the car. Then it will help preserve the integrity of the engine parts, will extend the service life and save the Budget of the car owner, protecting the car from breakdowns. Take the characteristics vehicle And use the manufacturer's recommendations to pick up suitable engine oil.

Motor oil is required to maintain the functions of the Niva car perfectly. Upon reaching a certain run, it is necessary to replace the lubricant fluid. The manufacturer recommends the replacement of oil every 15,000 km, but experienced drivers They advise you to change it every 10 or even 7.5 thousand km.

For Niva, motor oils of production of LUKOIL, Rosneft, Luxe, Mobil, Shell and many others are suitable for the Niva.

The semi-synthetic liquid LUKOIL luxury 10W-40 (at a price of about 800 rubles per canister) applies in the temperature range from-20 to +30 degrees Celsius and for operation at maximum loads. The composition guarantees protection of machines with diesel and gasoline engines and good permeability. The liquid increases the operating resource of the engine and increases it.

In the line of energy-saving oils, LUKOIL for Niva is present synthetic oil 5W30, which will reduce fuel consumption. The manufacturer added a substance to the liquid capable of preventing oxidation and dissolve the deposits occurring during operation. Oil is recommended for moderate climate. Suitable engines with a high-end, high-rise oil and without boost. The cost of 4-liter canisters will cost about 1,500 rubles.

LUKOIL SL / CF SAE 5W40 luxury is a synthetic-based all-season oil that meets the latest generation standards. Suitable for modern diesel engines and engines with turbocharged. The price of 4 liters of such an oil is slightly over 1000 rubles.

Luxe Hit SAE 10W-40 is a popular brand of oil among motorists, suitable for inhibiting the year. Advanced characteristics increase resistance to the effects of thermal, mechanical and chemical factors. The composition of the fluid is improved by high-quality additives to reduce volatility, ensuring resistance to the formation of soot and oxidation. Elements included in additives guarantee excellent properties in cold and hot temperatures. Sold at a price of about 600 rubles.

The Magnum Super 5W-40 semi-synthetic motor fluid is presented for cars with a gasoline and diesel engine, including turbocharging motors. Reliably protects the motor, guarantees stable work in the winter and summer. The latest generation additives prevent motor wear, prevent the occurrence of formations on rings, pistons and cylinders. Improved viscosity at negative temperatures is suitable for use in a Russian climate with severe winters. Approximate cost - 600 rubles per canister of 4 liters.

Rosneft - russian factory Oils, manufacturing products confirmed by certificates of international sample. From liquids suitable for Niva, we note the semi-synthetic liquid Rosneft Maximum 10W-40 with additives used by leading manufacturers. The oil prevents oxidative processes, destroys deposits on the parts of the motor, securely protects the engine under any operating conditions. The oil is slowly evaporated, providing a decrease in fuel consumption. The temperature range of work from -30 to +35 ° C contributes to the easy launch of the motor in cold weather and comfortable operation in the heat. According to the manufacturer, oil is an analog trucks Mobil 1.

In addition to these brands, the use of liquids with similar characteristics produced by other companies is possible. Experienced car owners When choosing motor fluids for Niva, they advise choosing means with viscosity within 0W-20W and 20-50 and all-season with similar characteristics.

Mineral or synthetic?

These two types of liquids are distinguished by molecular composition: mineral created in natural conditions, synthetics are performed with predetermined characteristics.

Semi-synthetic and synthetic oils increase the engine resource, provide easy launch in winter time and comfortable operation. In addition, the synthetic fluid gives the engine the ability to withstand high-temperature loads.

Mineral-based oils are also suitable for use in Niva cars. Mineral Motor Liquid will cost cheaper than synthetic , Nopo capabilities it is inferior to the latter: quickly burns out, it has less stability, it manifests itself worse at low temperatures and overheating.

Choose oil suitable for specific model Car and get it in specialized salons to eliminate fakes. The timely replacement of the engine fluid will allow you to preserve the Niva in working condition, prevent wear of parts and extend the service life of the machine.
24.09.2019

May 10, 2017

There was not much time since the purchase by me new "Niva" like a figure on electronic odometer Approached 1000 km of mileage. Many motorists know that on any new car it is at this mark that the oil change is needed in all nodes on the Niva 21214. In the case of "Niva", due to its difficult off-road "breed", such nodes will be quite a lot. New oil must be pouring into the following aggregates:

engine;
gearbox (PPC);
dispensing box (RCPP);
front axle;
rear axle;

The planned replacement of oil at this mark is obligatory for a number of reasons: it is not known how much how and where the car stood in stock before buying and in what condition is oil; During running new car All details are "gripped", there is strong wear and development, which in turn affects the working properties of the oil, as well as sometimes contributes to the formation of a metal chip, which falls into the oil, which is completely undesirable; Finally, it's just the recommendation of the manufacturer's plant. By changing the oil, you will know yourself that it is flooded in your machine and control its condition.

Choosing the right oil

So, we deal with the guarantee, but there is no desire to go to the service to replace the oil. If the hands grow from where it is necessary and there are no problems with the head - then there is nothing complicated in the oil replacement procedure. It is much more difficult to choose this oil, do not run into the fake and not mistaken with the class of oil, viscous and other parameters.
Although for "Niva" the question is not so terrible and load on the running and engine will not be proceedable due to the structure (compared to any BMW), but still the relationship to the maintenance of mechanisms will directly affect durability, return and challenges. Trite by bought fake oil - we risk getting to overhaul The engine or at least seriously "spoil his health." Here and comes the time to figure out all the subtleties of choice suitable oil Once and permanently, what will be written below.

In general, this topic is so common and in some sense inexhaustible, which you can write a huge treatise, and without coming to the bottom. But let's try to limit ourselves to the main moments. The main thing is to remember that in this case it is about choosing an oil specifically for "Niva", so for others car Marks Tips will not be quite universal, although in many ways the same thing is the same.

Before choosing the oil, get acquainted with filling volumes For all nodes in "Niva", where it must be replaced:

Engine 3.75 liters;
Gearbox (PPP) 1.6 liters;
Dispensing box (RCPP) 0.75 liters;
Front axle 1.15 liters;
Rear axle 1.3 liters;

Focusing on these numbers, we will buy oil with a small margin, about 1 liter to stay on the topping and for unforeseen cases. It makes no sense to buy more, because it is unlikely to need and will be just discharged money. Thus, for the engine, we need 5 liters of oil, and for all transmissions about 6 liters.

We go further. If someone does not know, then the oil happens two Types: motor and transmission. This will be a fundamental moment when choosing an oil in the store, to confuse the types of oil in no case, because They possess different properties, which is critical in our case.
Motor oil also happens two types - for gasoline or diesel units, in the case of Niva I think it is clear that we are talking only about gasoline. Here is such a set of basic criteria by which you can start searching oloy oil On the shelf auto shop. Since the oil is imported, it does not always happen intuitive that there is something if you focus on the label. Therefore, try to avoid the words "Diesel", on the labeling of oil and carefully examine all the information.

On this trouble with the choice of oil just begins. Now we will deal with the necessary viscous oil. On the bank / packaging, two digits that reveal the essence of these parameters are usually indicated. Usually this figure looks like this: "10-W40" or various variations. Why do we need to know these values, for which they answer and what do they affect? Allowed oil - one of of the most important characteristics Oils, it essentially informs us the temperature range of the environment (not working temperature!), in which oil "works", or retains his overseas.
In other words, these figures tell us, at what minimally low temperature the oil begins too thick, and at what maximally high temperature will begin overly diluted (going beyond the working properties in each case). For normal operation and the long-term preservation of all nodes with oil, critical transformations should not occur, and should be adopted at the average level. The same parameter directly affects the oil pressure in the system and timely pumping with its pump to all parts of the engine. It is calculated solely on the basis of operating conditions, the periodicity of oil replacement, etc. If you actively exploit the car in winter and summer, while the oil replacement occurs before changing the winter / summer season, it is advisable for the winter to fill the oil with the first lower index, and for the summer, accordingly, choose oil in such a way that the second index is higher. Based on this, it becomes clear that the first figure in the 10-W40 formula is responsible for maintaining the operating properties of the oil at low (minus) temperatures, and the second digit is responsible for working capacity high temperatures. But not everything is so simple and definitely.
The weather is capricious and often change, often the strong frosts in winter already does not happen (of course depends on the region), and summer does not meet last years Extreme heat. Therefore, chasing the extreme values \u200b\u200bin the viscosity index is stupid, it is enough to choose universal oil with averaged temperature range. In this sense, for winter with frosts, not lower than "minus 25" and for summer heat with a temperature not higher than "plus 30" the optimal choice There will be oil with a viscosity "10-W40". It is the most common and frequently found in stores and for the conditions of operation of the Niva fits perfectly. Of course, in each specific case, this question is individual and if you operate the car in the harsh conditions of Siberian frosts or the scorching African Sun, then you need to choose viscosity in strict compliance with climatic conditions. The table below lists the most common oil viscosity values \u200b\u200brelative to the temperature conditions:

There are no choice on this difficulty. Deciding with the viscosity, it is necessary to take into account the main type of oil, they are three: mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic. What are the differences of various types of oils? In general, the difference is quite clear and understandable: mineral engine oil (as can be understood from the title) is made from natural oil products (oil fractions of oil purified from impurities), while synthetics is made extremely chemically made of artificial substances (chemically synthesized homogeneous Organic compounds). Based on the above, semi-synthetic oil is a mixture of mineral and synthetic in the desired proportion (usually 50/50, although sometimes mineral prevails) to ensure the necessary work properties.
It would seem what difference and what gives one or another composition? As in any area, each oil type has its advantages and disadvantages. Initially, when the automotive industry was just beginning to develop, only mineral oils were in the go because of their availability and low cost of manufacture. But with constant improvement of engines, the requirements for oils, the preservation of their properties in various temperature ranges and operating conditions. This is exactly the impetus for the appearance of synthetic oil, which better retains all its performance, works in a wider temperature range, and also differs significantly greater durability during operation and excellent energy-saving properties. The main weighty advantage of the artificial synthetic oil lies in its chemical stability, or in other words: during operation it practically does not change its properties and thus does not lose the work-proofable state, does not turn into another substance / substance.

However, in practice it is not always appropriate to use expensive synthetic oil, especially for morally obsolete engines, not so demanding on temperature ranges and not working at the limit of their capabilities on crazy turns. This is just a clear example of a Niva car with a development engine of the 60s of the last century. Moreover, in some cases, purely synthetic oil may harm, because Due to more liquid consistency, high yield and penetrating ability, as well as a peculiar molecular composition, it is more demanding that the quality of the rubber seals of the engine, with which they are very bad at the Niva. As a result, it turns out that synthetics - butter is certainly good in all respects, it can even be said that it is in a sense ahead of time and, if not running on a fake, with a much greater probability will protect the engine in a wide variety of operating conditions.
But for the owners of the NIV, this oil (exactly like its space properties) in general is useless and will rather be unnecessary and at the same time with the risky investment. Risky because even for the new car, the likelihood that the bay of the synthetics, in the Niva, in a few days or weeks (at best) slabs flow, and this is not very good and threatens to replace these most seals along with the engine disassembly. And useless this oil It will be because the Niva engine in general is not very and needed a shipping stock of the work properties that synthelate possesses, is quite enough and the most mediocre. Thus, the most reasonable and optimal choice for the Niva engine will be semi-synthetic oil, which has balanced / averaged viscosity characteristics and high-quality additives, but almost guaranteed to save the car owner from annoying leakage. True, the semi-synthetic oil is relevant only for new and fresh cars, and if it was very sorted and "tired", then only the only choice remains only mineral oil. Again, the exception will be cases if the machine is operated in the rigid conditions of the external environment and at extreme temperatures - in these cases, there is simply no alternatives to synthetic oils.

With the types of oil, they figured out and realized that our wise choice for Niva in most cases - semi-synthetic. We go on, for quite free (at least for the owner of "Niva" it is in general, it is not strongly fundamentally) on canisters with oil often indicate quite valuable information, which will tell about the compliance of this or that oil standards unified system API classification (American Oil Institute). This info is usually written by the smallest font on the packaging with oil, and sometimes not specified at all. But in fact, as usual, this text is most valuable for the consumer and will tell about oil accessories to a specific type, based on the existing classification. Thanks to this, we can very accurately pick up the oil for compliance with our conditions and mechanisms, as well as avoid overpayment for anyone unnecessary marketing, choosing a product with the mind. International classification API develops from 1969 to this day, almost all oils have a mark on this system, which is very convenient, because Classification includes only three classes:

S (Service) - consists of categories of engine oil quality for gasoline enginesHolding in chronological order.
C (Commercial) - consists of categories of quality and assignment of oils for diesel enginesHolding in chronological order.
EC (Energy Conserving) - Energy-saving oils - a new series of high-quality oils consisting of low-viscous, light-flowing oils that reduce fuel consumption according to the results of tests on gasoline engines.

Universal oils suitable simultaneously for gasoline and diesel engines are denoted by two symbols of the corresponding categories: the first character is the main one, and the second indicates the possibility of using this oil for the engine of another type, for example, the SM / CF API.

If you understand this classification and completely soothe your nerves, then on the label it is necessary to search for the class S (Service) for gasoline engines. It should look like this: API SM. If deciphered for clarity, then it turns out that by classification API Oil Belongs to the class "S" for gasoline engines and refers to the category of quality "M". Quality categories via the API system were introduced by the letter values \u200b\u200bascending the English alphabet, starting with the letter "A". Since the introduction of the API classification, many classes are already hopelessly outdated, for example, the class "A" was in the course in the 60s of the last century. From the moment the requirements for oil and its properties increased significantly, and moral and outdated classes were output from the turnover. At the moment there are three classes:

SJ. - oils of this category are intended for all currently used gasoline engines and completely replace oils of all previously existing categories in older engine models. Maximum level of operational properties (since 1996).
SL. - oils of this category have the stability of energy-saving properties, reduced volatility, elongated replacement intervals (since 2001).
SM. - oils of this category are characterized by increased demands for lubricating materials relative to oxidation resistance, deposit protection, wear (since 2004)

Dependence on advertising or how not to overpay for beautiful words

Modern people are often highly dependent on the surrounding opinion, already literally used to blindly to go on a short leash of marketing and choose the goods unlawfully, without parsing and clarify the principles of the same oil and differences from one of the other. Choosing machine oilThey automatically fall into a tight trapping of an incorrect public opinion, based on air literally and on the "brainwash" advertising. Everyone has such brands on the lips Mobil1., Shell., Castrol and others. In the forums and in conversations, people also advise you to choose oil from the same brands, allegedly the most popular, in demand, and therefore "such as" qualitative. But all this complete nonsense, because Based on this opinion, not only ignoring reality, but also almost guaranteed the probability of overpaying and run into the fake, which will kill your engine or transmission.

To begin with, the reality is that almost all the oil from the existing variety of brands is made on two or three factories, the rest of the brands are simply Purchase the same oil in the same factory And sell it under its label, with his advertising campaign and at its price. All "magic" properties and future advertising technologies in most cases just a set of empty words to attract "adherents" to the bait. Then these people, not to end, not realizing, will passively promote the goods and convince others - allegedly this is the best oil! And why? The answer to this question will not follow, because There is simply no deep understanding of the issue.

In order not to depend on bad advertising and beautiful pictures, it is worth understanding and understand the only truth and stop chasing anything meaningless name, but to choose oil in a similar way with the choice of food products, namely according to the composition. And here the paradox comes - the basis of any oil and the required number of additives to ensure the required oil properties is regulated by standards (for example, the same API). And because Almost any oil is standardized, it already automatically means that almost everything is based on its same! Of course, individual manufacturers can add some additives or technological solutions from themselves, but they will not go beyond the framework of the standard (and simply cannot). But it is this basis that provides due interest to oil, which consumer awaits, and mostly the engine of the car.

So it turns out that if you approach the question of healthy and consciously, you can and you need to buy any oil, not paying attention to the brand, but focusing on normal and really important for any person criteria: low cost, compliant standards (appropriate precisely for your car and its engine) and low probability run into fake products.

How to protect yourself from buying fake oil

Before we have the replacement of oil in all nodes on the Niva 21214, it expects a responsible stage when choosing an oil, on which there is almost 80% of the successful purchase. Why is scary to run into the fake? The moment is quite obvious, as we can not know the specific composition fake oil and its properties. It may happen that this incomprehensible liquid will not have lubricant properties at all and of course will rather quickly bear the engine or transmissolution.

Well now, I realized the severity of the situation with fakes, it remains only to not buy such an oil. It's easier to say than to do. If a powerful tool for combating fakes was simply major retail auto parts stores, where it seems to somehow safely and confidentially buy goods (many have become accustomed), then it does not save even it. Since shops themselves do not know what they trade. What remains to buy the buyer, trying to protect yourself from buying a fake? There are two less guaranteed methods that will help if you do not exclude the likelihood of fake oil, then at least to reduce it to a reasonable minimum. Here they are:

Thus, in order to maximize themselves to protect yourself from the fake - it is enough to be "not like everyone else" (however, this approach and in everyday life can bring "buns"). Choosing an oil that is not popular and for which no one looks at - we choose a well-wiped strategy that saves us from fakes and overpayments, because none of the scammers will simply be born with a small brand in terms of sales, because This is not automatically promised for them. I remember et. simple rules You can forever get rid of yourself from headaches and experiences for the safety of the aggregates of your car, including in the intensive / limit modes.

A few words about choosing an oil filter for Niva

What does and why do you need an oil filter engine? Its main task, as follows from the name, filter / cleaned all the oil filled in the engine, skipping the entire volume through itself and delaying the particles of dirt and other sediments, not allowing them to circulate along with oil in the workspace. A reasonable question: how the dirt gets into the engine and where does it come from where it can appear if theoretically is the entire system of hermetic? Let's start with the fact that even in the theory, the engine is completely isolated from external influences, but in reality and practice such an ideal does not work. In fact, the engine "breathes", and many of its compounds are far from hermetic and some low percentage of dirt falls inside, even at least at the time of unscrewing the oil-tapping neck. The second point of the formation of unwanted impurities occurs during the immediate work, inside the engine itself (everything is slightly simpler with transmission, but also probably). When the engine operates in a long-term intensive load mode, then as a result of such a work, a naiga or metal chips can be formed into a consequence of contacting the rubbing metal parts.
All this nastyness, of course, falls into the cycle of the "cycle" of oil, but then the same oil filter comes to the rescue. He delays any impurities by leaving all the dirt on the filter element. Unfortunately, the described process, as always, idealized and the work of the filter is not so high-quality, but there is no point in the debris. You can only say that the design of most modern oil filters It has one essential flaw, thanks to which dirt does not have time to linger during the first cold start of the car. On this account, there are still hard-to-reach alternatives, such as the experimental filters of the Russian producer "Basalt", where this problem is solved completely due to the recycled design. And everything would be fine, but I could not find the data of the filters in the retail sale of a large network of auto parts stores. They are available so far only to order via the Internet, which is also a good option.

If you abstract from these problems and simply choose the traditional oil filter for our favorite "Nivka", then there are also some nuances here. The main difference between the many modern filter elements is the quality of its main working material, and of course the size of the filter itself. All this affects the ultimate cost, and if the quality is less understandable, then what does the size affect? The size provides more efficient oil cleaning, allowing you to keep more dirt inside yourself. But for new modifications "NIV" large and volumetric oil filters should be selected with caution.
Previously need to make sure whether the filter will fit physically on its place. For this, it is enough to visually look under the hood, find the installed oil filter and evaluate the remaining free space where it is installed. The fact is that on models with an air conditioner option (like mine) and probably with ABS (anti-lock brake system) Only the filter of the smallest dimension itself is physically climbed. If you buy a filter more, then it does not get into his legitimate place, resting in the air conditioner compressor unit. Yes, inevitable problems come together with good and long-awaited technological implementation. I will write about your adventure with a larger filter.

The procedure for replacing oil on the Niva 21214th on its own

By this point, we must have purchased needed for replacement, namely: oil itself (5 liters of motor and 6 liters of transmission), a new oil filter. In the rest, of course, you will need a set of keys (I use Rozhkov and Caiden, but many more convenient to work with a "heads" with a ratchet), as well as the prepared place and packaging to drain the exhaust oil (taking into account the volumes are rather big, or a lot of small). Plum packaging is very important, because Motor oil can very much to pollute the environment and for this reason it is necessary to properly dispose of it or find a different application (for example, for conservation of boards). The process of replacing the oil itself is extremely simple and does not pay the proud, except for inexperience or due to excessively accuracy can take a lot of time. I have about the 3rd watches on the replacement of oil "in a circle", but the result remains for a long time, and most importantly confidence in it, because the work is done with their own hands, which in itself is pleasant and priceless, because Confidence will be 100% as a result, as well as the understanding that the nodes of the machine are well protected. In addition to the listed toolkit, you will need some tricky adaptation to replace oil in transmission - a special syringe. Modifications and variants of the last great set, but the essence and principle of work one. At prices: from 200 to 1500 rubles for the most cracked syringe, although it is the most reasonable to choose everything golden middle. I, for example, bought a medium sized syringe with glass flack About 550 rubles. Although he subsequently did not need it, because At the cottage, the old grandfather of the syringe with the technology of the pressure of the pressure of the pressure was discovered, very comfortable and practical in the case. Why does the syringe necessary and without it do not do? The fact is that, in contrast to the replacement of oil in the engine (where everything in general is simply clear without sophistication), the transmission is at the very bottom, on the bottom of the car. And since no one has canceled physics, then the filling necks are located in top point Each transmission node. So it turns out that without a special adaptation, pour oil into the inside will not work. Syringe with a flexible hose without problems delivers oil "at the address" and will help pour it to "to the edges".

Now that we have everything you need, the oil replacement in all nodes on the Niva 21214th becomes finally possible and should be proceeded to this process. If you do it on the street, it is reasonable to foresee the time in advance (at least 2-3 hours) and choose a walk of the day, as well as not work at night looking. Next, I will describe my process of working on changing the oil, respectively, everything can be done by analogy. To begin with, it's a litter on the ground (those who work in the pit, there is more on the lift or the lipset).

Replacing the engine oil

We start from the engine and our task will be reached in each case to the drain hole. The engine is the most time-consuming and cost of the entire process due to the protective panels that you have to shoot on the way to the cherished drain plug.
To make it easier and more efficient to drain the oil, it is useful to pre-"drive" the car and bring the oil to the operating temperature of 90 degrees, in this case it is decently diluted and better (faster) flows from the pallet. We climb under the car and find the bolts of fasteners of the flaps. Here we will give up the keys on the "10" and on "13".
Work is more convenient. Carefully twist the bolts of the attachment of the shields (first the outside, then internal), at the same time holds protection with hand at the end. So after a while we get to the engine of the engine with a cherished cork. On the way, I personally did an amazing discovery (yes, with "Niva" do not cease to be surprised) - on the shields a decent garbage was accumulated, and a rust was discovered under it! This is despite the fact that the car is new, she is not even six months old, and I went to that time only 10! Here is such a small shock.
Well, okay, but on the panels now there are factory sound-absorbing panels, at least something has changed at the factory, it's hard to say that the car ultimately became quieter of the "old" modification "Niva". We clean the mud shields (useful prophylactic procedure each time during the oil replacement. And here it is a cherished cork with a hexagon. At this stage we substitute the container to drain the oil somewhere under the cork and slowly unscrew it with its corner hexagon key, while holding the tip.
In this case, when oil is poured, the plug will remain on the key, and will not fall into the container with oil. Well, when the cork is unscrewed, it will only be observed to be observed as usual black and dirty oil merges into the prepared packaging, the speed of this process will depend on how well the engine is warm to this procedure. When all the oil is fused, you can wait another 5-10 minutes before the last droplets are not started to drain from the pallet (it is important that the car stands on a flat horizontal surface, otherwise not all the oil will turn out of the pallet, and this is critical).
After when the flow stops, we wipe the hole and drain plug with a clean dry cloth, and immediately spin it with sufficient (but not excessive, so as not to trick) intensify to your previous place. It is useful to do it immediately to not forget. Regarding tightening connections golden Rules "Balance" - to pull until significant resistance appears and it becomes completely tight to spinning, then with this starting point, it is still with the effort of the hands to stretch two or three times (only without levers and similar devices).

When oil is fused and plugged on its rightful place, proceed to replacing the oil filter. There is also nothing complicated in this procedure, especially if the replacement is made according to the regulations within the specified time deadlines, then the filter must unscrew the hand. In other cases, when unscrewing is difficult, you will need a special cutter, or it will be enough to break through the oil filter housing with a long slotted scope to use it as a lever. In any of the options - we turn off the filter counterclockwise and remove it, now it can be thrown away.
To replace it, we put a new one, bought in advance. Before installation it is useful to lubricate the inner sealing ring with fresh engine oil in a circle, it is convenient to do this from the tip of the screwdriver. This is done in order for the filter as closely sat on its own planting place "By lubricated".
When installing, we also spin it only by the power of the hands, we will not need any tools. It is only worth watching the filter to wrap up with significant effort!

Now everything is ready for the fill of the new fresh oil into the engine. At this stage, it is important to remember only one nuance: it is necessary to ensure that the dirt does not get into the oil tract (like in the oil itself), even the slightest particles - it will be at least not useful for the engine, and it is not worth it to work on the oil filter. , it is better once again Just trace the accuracy of the process. For convenience, the funnel will also help, so as not to pour the entire top cover with oil and do not disparagus, although this is a matter of personal convenience. To pour the oil: we unscrew the oil-tapping neck of the engine and gently, slowly and measuredly poured the middle jet.
In the process of filling, it is extremely important to monitor the level: first we pour more than half the canister (usually 4 or 5 liters), and after we suspend the process and wait at least 5 minutes (better than 10). It is necessary to ensure that the oil is glass to the pallet, although this time does not ensure that all the oil takes to the bottom of the engine, but will increase the likelihood of this. Only after that it makes sense to check the level of the dipstick. Why is it important to control the level? He is invented not by chance and says that oil is either too small or too much. Both cases are extremely undesirable and can withdraw the engine. The most dangerous is when oils are less than you need, then the engine and its parts begin to experience oil starvation and work on dry friction, which will ultimately lead to failure, because Wear dry friction increases ten times. But no less dangerous situation, when oils more than need. In this case, there may be various consequences, from light, to heavy. In the simplest case, the oil will not fall there, where it follows, for example, pour candles or fall into the air canal. Also increases fuel consumption, because All driving components of the engine have to overcome the additional resistance of excessive fluid. In the worst cases, oil rings may fail or squeeze the glands, and this will inevitably lead to expensive repair. Therefore, the most reasonable thing is to fill the oil once and correctly, in terms of the level, so that you do not face various serious problems because of your frivolousness. Right level Oil is clearly in the middle between MIN and MAX marks (50% within these values). Everything that will be thrown above and is undesirable, everything that below can also lead to oil starvation. Therefore, the balance or "golden middle principle" works well in relation to the oil change procedure. Now how to track down during the fill? As mentioned above, the bay is more than half the canister (4 or 5 liters) waiting for a while and watch the dipstick - the oil should appear somewhere at the bottom. Then again fuel some kind of "on the eye" and again control the level by a similar scheme. Ultimately, in this way, it is quite accurately possible to add oil smoothly to the middle between MIN and MAX, and calm down on it. Yes, it takes a lot of time, but the maintenance of the engine / heart of the car is more important for us, right?

After filling the oil to the desired level, we close the oil-tapping lid, do not forget to reliably insert the dipstick into place and check that everything is dry and there was no leather under the engine. It will remain only in the reverse sequence to set the engine protection to the previous place. This procedure is completed, and if it is made as described, then in the safety of the engine you can not doubt - everything will work as a watch.

Replacing oil in transmission

Describe the replacement of oil in each node of the transmission makes no sense, because The process is similar and will sufficiently understand the general principle. I started changing the oil in this order: checkpoint, RCPP, front axle, rear axle; However, the order may be arbitrary. So, as in the case of the engine, with each specific transmission node, you must first find the drain hole, unscrew it with a hexagon key, merge all the oil (also waiting for the desired time until the oil starts to drain already on the droplet). The drain hole is always at the very bottom of the node with which we work, and the fuel is always slightly higher (this is at least in order to do nothing). Drain plugs in Niva on hexagons. We unscrew the on-described principle - the corner key so as not to get dirty and not drown the plug in the container with a fused oil.
We do not forget to substitute the capacity and evaluate the oil to work out, deposition, the presence of metal chips and other mud (if this is detected, then this often signals problems). Then we wipe the cork and the drain hole with a clean dry cloth, we reliably spin back. The most interesting and difficult thing remains - to fill a new transmission oil. To do this, we will finally come in handy the same syringe (not to be confused with medical). We unscrew the fuel neck of the oil, type the oil from the canister to the whole volume (depends on the design of the syringe), and inject everything through the bay hole, trying not to shed. There are plastic syringes with large gaps or even glass with poor-quality seals, they have an eternal trouble - these are leaking oils from the above-mentioned gaps while working, try to avoid such a cheap product so that the oil replacement does not turn into a dirty nightmare, but the main thing is in aimlessly lost oil. In any case, whatever the syringe, it is necessary to pour oil until it starts poured out of the filling hole.

And here comes a subtle moment - even though it is not necessary, but it will be not bad if the oil is in terms of a slightly higher than the fuel hole. This is a somewhat strange way: closer to the end, when the oil is already starting to overflow, it is necessary to prepare a syringe with butter and a plug in the other hand, then sprinkle an impressive portion of the oil inside and straight over the flowing oil to try to complete the tube. The technology is not quite pleasant and clean, but the transmission will tell you for this big "thank you" and will remain safe for a long time. Such "overflow" is useful to arrange also because the oil in the transmission is not as much as possible compared to the engine, which means it is better to replace with special care and scrupulousness. Pour the oil just above the traffic jams can also be another, more costly way - slightly lift one side of the car by the jack (opposite plug) so that the skew allowed to do this without unnecessary tricks (or put a car on a slope, the essence of the same). Choose the way to everyone for yourself, and not quite this will necessarily, however, will help extend the life and protect the transmission nodes in the case of increased loads (for the Niva it will be riding maximum speed or a permanent load in off-road conditions at the limit of possibilities). There is also information that in some cases due to constructive features PPC, when driving at the 5th gear gear, the extreme position remains without oil and are hungry, which leads to its failure. After the bay of the oil we twist the cork and ready!

The results of the procedure

We launch the car with feeling that it washed inside and transformed, which means now ready to be new roads, but in the case of Niva and off-road tests of any complexity. After replacing the oil, you can also feel a change in motion - sometimes the car begins to ride more, smoothly, it becomes slightly quieter in the previous levels of revolutions, but all this is possible only with really high-quality oil.
True, in my case, no miracles happened, but the sense of safety of the nodes does not leave yet for a long time After the "circular" replacement. A few days after replacing the oil, the car is worth rushing, closely following oil spots on the surface at the bottom during the parking lot, and watching the speed of the machine at speed and most importantly, controlling the daily oil level in the engine at the dipper. Finally, I want to say: Do not forget to change the oil in a timely manner in your car and approach the question as serious as possible, because it depends not only by the overall durability of your car, but also the preservation of the original performance.

VAZ 2121 "Niva" - also has the name LADA 4x4. Development of Soviet Auto industry increased passibility. Small class car, sacrifice with constant fully drive and carrier body. He began serially produced since 1977. Sailed until 2006 called VAZ 2121 "Niva". To date, on sale under lada brand 4x4.

Service soviet cars It is much easier than overseas. The first is the availability of spare parts and inexpensive price. You can always find the desired detail on the market. The second is the entire engine as a palm. It is possible to match for any node and repair it either completely change.

The manufacturer recommended service interval of 15,000 km. Many owners change engine oil much earlier, already at 8-10 thousand. A big plus wakes up using washing fluidwhich poured for 5 minutes and merges making the engine much cleaner. Thus, the new oil wakes up a little longer and high quality perform their lubricating functions.

Niva exists different modifications and restyled versions, all of them are serviced as the main 2121 model.

Modified versions include:

VAZ 21213;
VAZ 21214;
VAZ 21215;
VAZ 21216;
VAZ 21217;
VAZ 21218;
VAZ 21219.

All these models (modifications) are also served as the main version of the VAZ 2121.

What oil pour and how much?

Niva owners can pour into engines to synthetics with a viscosity of 5W-30 or 5W-40. The accurate selection of viscosity should proceed from the temperature conditions of the region in which you live and operate the car. The choice of the brand is not fundamental, you can take any normal market brand (Motul, Lukoil, Liquima Molly - Shell).

For old engines, which passed more than 150,000 better flood semi-synthetic.

When replacing, orient that 3.7 liters of oil immediately will immediately post. Therefore, buy a canister for 4 liters. Also do not forget about the daily level monitoring and if you need gravy.

Instruction

We warm the engine up to 45-50 degrees. Warm oil has a better turnover and better stalking from the engine with a complete replacement. Our task is removed to the maximum of the old dirty and waste fluid that no longer has useful properties from the engine and pour a new one. If there is a lot of old dirty oil in the crankcase, it is sweeping with the new and worsen it. beneficial features. War down before working the engine 5-7 minutes, it wakes up enough.
For convenient access to the drain plug (and in some models, the oil filter is also attached from the bottom) and the bottom of the car as a whole, it will be necessary to subdominate or call the observation pit ( the best way). Also, in some models, the "protection" of the engine crankcase can be installed.
Open air access to the crankcase by unscrewing the cover of the filler neck and the probe.
It substitutes a large container (equal to the amount of oil poured).
We unscrew the drain plug with the key. Sometimes drain plug It is made as ordinary "bolt" under the horn key, and sometimes you can unscrew using four or hexagon. Do not forget to wear protective gloves, oil most likely wakes warm but you need to keep in mind caution.
We are waiting for about 10-15 minutes while working out in a basin or a cropped plastic canister.
Optional point but very effective! Wash engine special fluid It is not inscribed in the service regulations and is not mandatory for implementation - but. A little confused you are at times better to promote the engine from the old, black oil. It is flushing with an old oil filter for 5-10 minutes. You will be surprised at which black oil will fall out with this liquid. Use this liquid is very simple. A detailed description should be present on the label of flushing fluid.
We change the filter of the cum. In some models, the filter itself is changing and the filter element (usually yellow). Do not forget to make the "impregnation" of the filter with fresh oil. Fill about 50-100 g right into the filter. These non-cunning manipulations will help to avoid the so-called "oil starvation" of the engine in the first seconds of work. Do not forget to lubricate the rubber sealing ring before installing.
Pour new oil. Making sure the drain plug is spinning, and installed new filter Oil cleaning can begin to fill the new oil focusing on the pouch. The level should be between the minimum and maximum mark. Also, you need to remember that after the first start of the engine, some oil leaves and the level goes down.
In the future, when the engine is running, the oil level will certainly change, be attentive for the first few days of operation. Re-check the oil level on the PCU after the first start.

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