The car does not pull what to do. The engine was disappeared: why this happens and what to do to the driver

In general, the engine can stop pulling along the most various reasons - This is one of the most common faults, which can have a huge variety of reasons, and below we will look at the most likely, we describe their symptoms and exploring this issue in detail. After all, one day it may occur with each of us that the engine will lose power, not accompanied by any more symptoms. Probably, the engine does not give any explicit signs of any disease, he seemed to be almost completely in order and does not publish any unusual noise and vibrations, but at the same time he simply does not pull as well as it usually does it. And the problem seems to be getting worse every day and worse, though, you probably didn't even notice when the motor first began to pull it worse.

If such a situation is familiar to you, let's consider the following reasons for reducing the drive of the motor:

Embossed fuel

First of all, you need to blame the fuel - remember where you were last refueling - perhaps this is a new gas station or the one with the fuel that you have not previously had a ride experience. It is possible that the fuel is simply turned out to be very poorly (it happens so much that you are still lucky if you just stop pulling the engine - after all, someone is probably the engine will stop starting until the owner will replace completely fuel in the tank).

If you refuel on the refueling, where usually, and nothing causes suspicion, go to local communities in social networks, the autoclub of your region / district or just an urban portal - perhaps the gas station was just a bad fuel delivement.

However, most often, with the loss of travelers, the incompatibility of the engine with such poor-quality fuels has other symptoms - for example, such as engine speed instability, difficulties with launching and some others depending on how much fuel turned out to be bad and from the car model.

But it is most likely to determine the poor quality of gasoline itself, twisting the candle from the engine (this will require a special candle wrench) - in general, candles can often be used as the primary diagnostic method of certain malfunctions in the engine combustion chamber, since they are most closely cooperating With this combustion chamber and at the same time are quick-in. If the fuel contains a large number of metal-based additives, then the contacts of the candle and the "skirts" of the central diode will have a reddish color (as if the red brick was covered with a candle).

Polluted air filter

You may also simply pollute your air filter, and in this case, the elimination of power loss will cost you, perhaps, cheaper than all other options - just replace the air filter - you can buy it yourself, so replace with your own hands.

The problem is polluted air filter It is that the fuel-air mixture, which enters the combustion chamber of the cylinders of your engine, comes there without a sufficient amount of air, and therefore the fuel burns not completely, because for its combustion it is necessary enough oxygen. It turns out a situation similar to a person in a person - he seems to eat enough, and leads a healthy lifestyle, but at certain moments of life (during illness by this runny nose), the scored nasal passages are not allowed to breathe normally.

Polluted or old spark plugs

Spark plugs may well be contaminated or excessively worn out, and in this case, if the motor does not pull due to them, it is also a relatively inexpensive version of troubleshooting - Just clean the candles or replace them. However, it should be borne in mind that periodic pollution and wear of the ignition candles are an abnormal process, and the reason for this lies, most likely, somewhere deeper, or in the ignition candle.

Contaminated fuel filter

Fuel filter, as well as air, can cause engine power loss. And the physics of the process here is similar to the air filter - if in the case of the case the fuel did not completely burn due to a lack of air, then in the case of a contaminated fuel filter, on the contrary, the fuel is given insufficient quantity. In this case, simply.

Mechanical problems with the engine

If all the above methods have not saved, and the engine is also badly pulling the car, then it's time to entrust the work of professionals - to begin in a good car service and perform the diagnostics of the engine work - checking compression (compression degree in combustion chambers), for example, can say a lot about work Engine, including about approaching the limit of its resource and the upcoming expensive repair.

Failure in the fuel system

Such a reason for the drop in the engine's diverance, as a violation of the normal operation of the fuel supply system to cylinders, and here can also be a number of reasons that the motor is not gaining momentum, let's list the main:

• Faulty (contaminated) fuel pump due to, for example, poor-quality fuel or gasoline sucking from the bottom of the tank, where the majority of extraneous particles of dirt are ruined.
• Malfunction of the injector or oxygen sensor.
• Exactness of hoses or fuel supply tubes, where air is suused.

Catalyst or exhaust system clogged

The cause of the reduction of the engine's arbitrariness can also become a contaminated catalytic converter or exhaust system. In both cases, the replacement of the corresponding contaminated component will help. It should be borne in mind that the catalyst, as a rule, is very noticeable due to the content in it in certain amounts of noble metals.

We listed the main and most likely causes of possible engine power loss - it must be remembered that such reasons have an excellent set, and if you failed to install them yourself, it is necessary to go to the car service workshop to trust this work to professionals.

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This malfunction the owner of the car perceives subjectively, noting that the car became "lazy" that the engine "does not pull". But how exactly to determine the true state of the engine according to power parameters? For this, there are quite specific estimates maximum speeddeveloped by the car, and the time of passing 1 km of the path when starting from the place with the transmission switching during intensive acceleration. Tests to determine these parameters of the car are carried out on a horizontal straight line of the road with a smooth and solid coating in dry weather in the absence of wind. The portion of the road must have sufficient length, the complete safety of the movement must be ensured (lack of counter transport, pedestrians, etc.). All measurements are produced when moving in two opposite directions with closed door glasses and ventilation hatch in the front of the body. The read test must be carried out in a good condition running part car (convergence and collapse of the front wheels, tire pressure, adjustment brake mechanisms) And check the path of free rolling (ran) a car with a steady speed of 50 km / h to a complete stop. To do this, overclock the car in direct transmission up to 50 km / h and move at this speed to a pre-planned guide on the road, such as a kilometer pointer: when traveling a reference point, it is necessary to quickly turn off the clutch and immediately translate the gearbox lever to the neutral position.

This test is carried out when moving in two opposite directions and the average value is taken, which should be at least 420 m. Often, in the process of adjusting to the vehicle of the car, it becomes "swears", since the cause of bad dynamic qualities was not an engine, but incorrectly adjusted Wheel alignment or "tightened" brake mechanisms.

So, what and where to check if there is no engine pickup (the engine does not pull).

1. Check all sensors.

1.1. DMRV is a mass flow sensor. In case of unexpected, the mixture may be loosely enriched (there will be a lot of gasoline) or poor - it will be sluggishly accelerated. How to try to check the sensor on your own: if there is a sluggish acceleration - disconnect the sensor connector, start. Idling speed will immediately rise immediately, light up the "Chek Engine / Check engine" lamp. Try ride in this mode. If acceleration becomes much better (you will feel the difference at once) then the sensor is clearly defective. You can try it carefully to rinse with Krasin, but it is not for long.

Since the sensor is expensive to extend his life change the air filter every 5000km, because Most of all we will not believe in the sand or dust.

1.2. DPKV - position sensor crankshaft. There are rare problems with him, sometimes it is enough to clean the surface between the gear and the sensor from the mud.

1.3. R.Kh.h. - idle regulator. Represents a stepper engine. Sometimes it lies and is the cause of the engine unversed in the cold. When malfunction can "hang" idle speed, a lot to float either the engine will be stuck after the gas reset. An explicit sign of a deceased sensor can maintain a working engine, but only when the acheller pedal is pressed. After letting, it stalls.

1.4 DPDZ - position sensor throttle valve. It is standing on the axis of the throttle. When fails, the gas pedal is nonlinearly starting working, jumping, "hang". I recommend putting a contactless sensor (just more expensive) and forget about it for a long time.

1.5 DK - oxygen sensor. Watch out the composition of the mixture. It is facing the catalysts (in new machines there are two more - another after the catalyst). A faulty sensor is also the cause of "dull" overclocking. It is difficult to determine the serviceable. Usually make flashing a controller to exclude this sensor from work.

2. Check the gas station.

The operation of the benzonasos is usually assessed by pressure in the ramp of the nozzles. Normal is the pressure of a little more than 3 atmospheres. It is better to call for the diagnosis. Working with gasoline on the hot engine is still dangerous. It is worth checking the benzone pump. Often it clogs and pressures in the ramp immediately falls, which can significantly affect acceleration.

Bad candles - frequent omensions. Noticeably on how the turns are floating on H.H. I recommend to put verified (take in prestigious stores, in order not to run into the fake) - NGK and BRISK. According to the experience of operation reliable and in the tests "driving" leaders.

4. Low compression in the cylinders.

Maybe due to the burned valve (or several minutes at once). Radically drops the power of the engine and the consumption of gasoline increases significantly. On 8-valve engines periodically need to be adjusted valves. If it did not do it for a long time, it can cause low compression and its scatter on the cylinders.

Modern engines have greater power, efficiency and less pollute the environment than those that were before. So, when the behavior of your engine is changing, it immediately becomes noticeable. When the machine "loses power", it says that something is faulty. It is necessary to immediately figure out, as it may be the cause of an emergency on the way.

For example: You have damaged brake pads, and you did not notice it. When moving, they can lead to the fire of the wheel, as brake fluid It is a flammable material. Or, the fuel filter, clogged with mud. This can lead to a breakdown of the fuel pump, which will start working with a high load. These are two examples of the main causes of the power loss of your car. But there may be other reasons how to identify them we will look at below:

Scanning codes of malfunctionneed to produce if on dashboard The signal light with the engine caught fire. If this is not, then go to the next step.

So, I caught fire "Check Engine", you need to make self-diagnostics or connect the scanner to the diagnostic connector. It should be noted that the car control system writes an error that appears again during the second engine start.

If the engine is working normally, the existing code can be removed from the memory itself. There are moments, the engine code works like something wrong, and the bulb does not light up. Just some faults cannot be detected by a computer. For example: if intake or exhaust valves work incorrectly, the computer will not determine this, since this fault is not associated with sensors.

Air filter check- polluted air filter reduces air supply to create fuel air mixture. This leads to a drop in engine power and increased fuel consumption. Also on the operation of the engine affects the quality of the air filter material. Do not chase for cheapness because possible repair The engine can do it more expensive. Many stories about how not the original or cheap filter was put, he later broke, and the MAF sensor, rings on the pistons, were out of the chain. To check your air filter, open the hood, remove the housing filter element and evaluate the status. If necessary, replace it.

Fuel filterr— at a certain condition, the fuel filter can supply a smaller amount of fuel into the system, and this, in turn, is reflected in power. To check it, it is necessary to dismantle and drain the remains of the fuel. Throw the filter along the course of fuel in the system. Clean filter is blown easily. If it is blown hard or impossible to blow it, without regret, throw it away and remember that it can spoil your fuel pump.

Check the pressure in the fuel system and on the pressure regulatorthe fuel pump is located in the gas tank, if you are a happy vehicle owner with electronic injection, or on the engine, if you still have a car with a carburetor. Many machines have deterioration of work due to the fuel pump. Some cars have a special jack on the fuel line, to test the pressure. If you don't have it, you will have to attach some efforts to connect the pressure gauge. Pressure value in the highway you can find in your engine. The special regulator is installed in your highway, which relieves excessive pressure in the highway back to the benzobac. It may be incorrectly configured or led away. It can be checked with an air pump, gradually increasing pressure to the passport. If, without reaching it, the regulator opened, then replace it.

Check the ignition systemwhat a ignition timing. What condition is a candle high voltage wires. More detailed instructions The inspection is in to the engine. Remember the main thing, do not rely on your own experience or fragmentary knowledge. After missing, any nuance, you can spoil any element of the system. For example, ignition coils.

Flow sensor or air pressure These sensors help electronic block Motion controls How much air is spending the engine and how much it is necessary to apply fuel to form the fuel and air mixture. If the sensors are faulty, the computer may incorrectly calculate the amount of fuel, and you respectively eat. But why, then the light does not light up? The computer is programmed for a short circuit or a sensor break. If the sensor works incorrectly, the computer can only inform you that in the fuel system is not proper mixing and all. The source will have to look for himself. To do this, there are special guidelines for the stages of verification of components. What parameters should be at the sensor, look in the manual.

Checking the chain or beltcrankshaft and timing shaft must rotate synchronously for this and necessary these belts or chains. You will simply need to combine all the labels that you are applied on the belt and gears. There are times when the belt jumps on one tooth or stretches the chain. But with the proper level of service, you will be protected from this attack.

Check graduation system on blockingmodern engines are very complex and automakers are trying to make them less damage to the environment. One of the components of this system is a catalyst installed in the exhaust system. In someone can be located directly near the engine, others, somewhere under the body. But one is invariably, it is. When using dirty fuel, which is sold in abundance at our gas stations, with time the catalyst is destroyed and blocks normal expiration exhaust gases. You can check its performance or using remote thermometers (temperatures after the catalyst should be slightly higher) or by pressure before and after the catalyst. If you are deprived of such opportunities, it remains only to shoot it and look at the lumen. If he is scored, then it is better to replace him better, but conscious individuals, ready to part with a large amount of money, is practically no, it is simply knocked out.

Check compressionto do this, you will need a compressometer with a pressure gauge, the accuracy of which you trust. Over time, the rings on the pistons are stepping and compression in the cylinders falls, it affects the engine and on its launch. However, not only rings can be the cause of weak compression. If the valves of the mechanism The timing is not tightly adjacent to its landing places, then there will also be a bad result. To identify a source of bad compression, it is necessary to add several grams after the first measurement of the compression machine oil In the cylinder and measure again. If the compression rose, then the rings are to blame. If there are no valves. True, when measuring compression, your battery must be well charged, otherwise all efforts will go in vain. The compressometer is better screwed instead of the ignition candles, what to use the rubber seal. More convenient.

If all the above points passed tests, it remains only to check the transmission.

Checking transmission Sometimes the engine develops sufficient power, but it actually does not reach the wheels. If, while driving, you hear that the engine works hard, and at the same time you do not feel the car movement vigor, then it is possible to slip automatic transmission or blocking from brake system. It is possible to determine this by the foot of the machine, when driving along the horizontal section of the road, transfer the gear selector to the "D" position and look at the behavior of the car. If you try to immediately reset the speed, then watch the brakes. If not, then you need to think about visiting a hundred and checking the machine. Previously, of course, you can, at least carry out a parking test.

To carry out the parking test you will need free space before you and the presence of a tachometer. You need to warm up the car engine, then tighten hand brake. Press the brake pedal foot and translate the gear selector to the "D" position. Not releasing brake pedals, put pressure on the gas pedal and watch the tachometer test. If the turns around 2000 (for cars with a turbine about 2200), then everything is fine. If more / less than this number, you still have to go to a hundred check the machine. The test is done a few seconds and then necessary Engine work at idle. Free space in front of them is needed in case you have bad brakes.

Independent diagnostics: Causes of low engine power

Poor service can lead to a reduction in engine power.

Low engine power usually means that your engine lacks power during acceleration or that your engine suddenly cannot achieve normal speed. Although the low power of the engine may mean that normal wear is gradually takes a significant portion of your car's power, this guide concerns the abnormal power loss - a failure caused by the fact that the system or component does not work properly due to a malfunction or absence of adequate service.

The status of the low power of the engine can be caused by one or more of the long list of components requiring attention. Fortunately, you can slightly narrow the list, knowing that some of the most common causes of reducing the engine power are associated with the fuel, ignition or emission system.

Whether you are dealing with faulty detail or lack of proper maintenanceSupposed below tests and strategies will help you restore the power of the motor. Tests belong to various systems, specific faults and conditions that are known to reduce engine power. Finally, you remind you of some important diagnostics that can be applied to your particular case. Each component mentioned or condition includes a section "What you can do" so that you can take some actions when you consider it necessary.

Systems that can cause low engine power

We will look at the system in order:

1. Ignition system
2. Fuel system
3. System of exhaust gases
4. Computer system
5. Vacuum leakage
6. Gearbox or clutch
7. Exhaust system
8. Compression

But first I'm going to list some of the very simple checks that you have to do before start testing.

Four checks that you have to do

Here are some important, but simple checks that need to be considered first.

1. If you have noticed immediately after some work has been done on your car, make sure that everything is connected back. Check if there are no weakened hoses, disconnected electrical connectors and weakened bolts, and if the fluids have been replaced, see whether suitable oil For engine or gearbox.
2. . With insufficient pressure, your tires will be faster, and the car will consume more fuel to dispel the car. Check the tire pressure with a pressure gauge when the tires are cold. Pump tires for 1-3 pounds / square meters. Inch below maximum pressureshown on the sidewalls of tires.
3. Even (CEL) Not caught fire. You may have a waiting code that helps you determine the cause of the problem. A faulty sensor or drive can lead to the fact that the car computer (or transmission) will receive signals with incorrect voltage, as a result of which the computer will change the fuel and air mixture and takes the power from your engine (or transmission). Whatever codes you do not find, always check the chain or components specified in the fault code. It is possible that the error can force the computer to "think" about failure in another chain or component. On some models of vehicles faulty position sensor distribution Vala (CMP) can lead to a sudden loss of engine power - the computer will most likely establish the code if it detects the problem with this sensor.
4. Many GM car models are equipped with a light engine power lamp (REP), similar to the engine check lamp (CEL). When this indicator (or both indicators) turns on, you will notice that the engine barely reacts to the accelerator. This is a terrible situation if the problem occurs while driving on the highway or in conditions of intensive movement. The most common triggers of this signal lamp are harness connecting the throttle position sensor (TPS), or TPS itself. Other problems that can trigger the REP indicator are associated with the throttle housing (including wiring), an oxygen sensor, an accelerator pedal position sensor (or wiring harness), or.

Testing eight systems that can cause low engine power

Now here are eight systems that usually help reduce energy consumption, and how you can check them yourself.

Worn or contaminated plugs slow down the engine operation

Ignition system

The sluggish behavior of the engine very often can be traced to worn or faulty parts in the ignition system. Several components in the system need maintenance at regular intervals. For example, spark plugs and spark plug wires, but you should also check the ignition coil and the ignition time. If any of these components will lead to the fact that you do not get a good spark, the engine does not develop full power

What can you do: When you feel that the engine does not pull, one of the first checks should be the test of the spark strength. Use the adjustable spark tester (theexton is an acceptable brand) to check the quality of the spark. Check for 40 kV and 30 square meters. If your spark can not overcome this gap with these settings, you may have worn wires, a weak or defective distributor, a bad ignition coil or a bad ignition control module, depending on your particular module. Check subsequent tests and refer to your car repair manual for proper diagnostics for your specific model. If you do not have a manufacturer's maintenance instructions, I strongly recommend getting after-sales service guide for your exact model.

With visual inspection of the components of the ignition system, such as the distributor cover, the rotor, the ignition coil, pay attention to carbon traces, carbon accumulation and damage (oxidation). Carbon trails are similar to small lines that are formed around these components. They can turn off the voltage passing through the system by depriving the spark plugs of the required voltage to produce a good spark. Replace them if necessary.

After checking the strength of the spark, if necessary, check the following individual system components.

Spark plug

Spark plugs can be contaminated by carbon sediments (nagar) and other chemical side products, especially if the car is not serviced in accordance with the proposed schedule.

Contaminated candles cannot give a sufficient spark to ignite the fuel and air mixture. In addition, with a large mileage, the gap between the spark contact electrodes will increase due to wear.

What can you do: Spend a visual inspection of spark plugs, check the gap between the electrodes using the probe and adjust it if necessary. In the repair or repair manual, your car has an appropriate gap for ignition candles. Your maintenance guide can help you analyze your spark plugs that can tell a lot about the status of your engine.

Just like spark plugs, spark plug wires wear out, and after many mileage kilometers, they may prevent the spark that reached the spark plugs.

What can you do: Check the resistance of each wire using a digital multimeter (DMM) and compare your readings with specifications in your repair manual. Usually you need about 5,000 ohms per foot wires. Otherwise, replace them with a high-quality set of wires.

Ignition coil

The ignition coil produces a high voltage required to be sparking in a spark between the spark plug electrodes. This voltage is usually from 4,000 to 30,000 volts, depending on the specific car model.

The ignition coils are also wearing or fail, which leads to a weak spark, intermittent spark or at all any spark.

What can you do: You can check the coil (s) of the ignition coil in your car using a digital multimeter using your car repair manual.

Ignition time

The ignition time refers to the relationship between the spark and the position of the piston in the cylinder during the working stroke.

The ignition time should be correct for proper combustion of the fuel and air mixture. When the ignition delay, you can notice an increase in fuel consumption, reduced engine power and poor acceleration.

Problems with synchronization may occur due to worn (overly stretched) or damaged timing belt or chain. Even 2 or 3 degrees of differences from the correct time can lead to problems with the operation of the engine.

On most modern cars Ignition time cannot be adjusted directly, but you can still check time yourself. On old models you can check and adjust the time yourself.

What can you do: Check the ignition time using the time indicator and tachometer. If the distributor is used in your ignition system, if necessary, you can adjust the time yourself. Contact your car repair manual. Your manual may also contain a belt or chain service interval.

A clogged air filter will reduce the engine power.

Fuel system

Although modern systems fuel injection can have a different configuration, they all have a lot of common components, such as fuel injectors, control modules and sensors. Any of these components may fail and lead to the loss of the power of your engine.

The fuel system can deliver you as much hassle as the ignition system. When the engine does not pull, there are some details you need to check.

The engine ceases to pull the reason in the fuel filter

Over time, the fuel filter is clogged, which reduces fuel consumption and prevents the correct acceleration of the engine or leads to the loss of engine power.

What can you do: Look in your car's instruction manual or in the repair manual Schedule a fuel filter service. Even if your filter is not the main cause of the problem, replacing the filter through the manufacturer recommended by the manufacturer remove the load from the fuel pump and increase its service life.

Engine does not develop full power to check the air filter

When the engine is running, the air filter in the air purification system delays dirt, dust and other extraneous particles and removes them from the air flow entering the engine. In the end, the filter clogs. A strongly scored air filter will make your engine work much harder. You will notice this in the form of such an effect how badly pulls the engine or dramatically fell the power of the engine.

What can you do: Most car manufacturers recommend every 12 months. Therefore, be sure to check the air filter and replace it if necessary. Refer to your car or repair manual.

Bad engines check fuel injectors

The most common problem with fuel injectors , leading to the loss of engine power, is clogging. But they can also fail.

What can you do:

• On the injectors of the throttle housing (TBI) you can check the fuel spraying scheme in the injector, removing the cover from the air filter housing. Spraying of fuel should be uniform and partial spraying, following an inverted V-shaped diagram. You can add a fuel supplement to clean the slightly scored injector, or take it into your maintenance store. However, if the inner valve in the nozzle has failed, and not just clogged, you need to replace it.
• In a multi-phase fuel injection system, contaminated or scored injectors is more difficult to detect. Depending on the configuration of your particular system, you can relatively easily disconnect each of the injectors from their port to check their spraying scheme. In other systems, disassembly is a more complex process.

If you suspect dirty nozzles or have not served the injection system for a long time, try adding a fuel supplement to fuel tank. Otherwise, you may have to pass the car to check the balance of nozzles, which measures the amount of fuel, which splashes each nozzle when power is applied.

The engine has fallen by looking for the cause in the throttle valve

Throttle malfunctions are not common, but they happen.

What can you do: You can quickly check the throttle body to ensure that the valve is the throttle plate - completely opens when the accelerator pedal is fully pressed.

• Remove the air ducts or the air filter box cover to access the throttle housing.
• Ask the assistant to fully press the accelerator pedal when the engine is turned off.
• Make sure the throttle is reacting accordingly on the pedal.
• Otherwise, adjust or fix the throttle thrust or remove the car from the valve and the throttle holes. Building can also prevent the valve valve.

Engine does not develop power Checking the fuel pressure regulator

Faulty fuel pressure regulator can skip too much fuel into the engine or too little from which a bad engine can occur.

What can you do: Check the fuel pressure using a pressure gauge. Check may indicate problems with the fuel pump (low pressure or low volume) clogged fuel filter or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

The exact procedure may vary from one engine model to another, but total steps are the same:

• Find the shredder valve on the fuel ramp (this is a test fitting similar to the air valve on your tires). If your model is not supplied with this valve, you can still connect the sensor directly to the fuel line using adapters (see repair manual).
• Then follow the steps described in the repair or maintenance manual, and compare the readings with the specification.

Faulty exhaust gas recycling valve can reduce the engine power.

Does not pull the engine cause in the exhaust emission system

Another possible, although not a common cause of engine power loss during acceleration is the malfunction of the exhaust gas recycling valve (EGR).

EGR valve allows the measured amount of exhaust gases at more high revolutions idling engine re-enter the engine to reduce it high temperature and harmful emissions.

When the EGR valve fails, it can be stuck in an open or closed state. If the valve is stuck (or intermittently stuck), opens or does not work properly, the most common symptoms that you will notice are a rough idle and failures during accelerationBut in other cases you simply notice the lack of engine power when you click on the accelerator.

What can you do: You can check the EGR at home valve using a manual vacuum pump.

Computer system

As part of the computer system, both the absolute pressure sensor in the collector (MAP) and the air flow sensor in the collector (MAF) affect the fuel-air mixture controlled by the computer. Usually, the car computer saves a malfunction code in memory when a malfunction is detected using any of the sensors.

What can you do: Even if the indicator Check Engine It does not burn, it is recommended to scan the computer for waiting fault codes. The most common problem with MAF sensors is a dirty sensitive element. You can clean it using an electronic contact cleaner or MAF cleaner. Regardless of whether your car is equipped with a MAP or MAF sensor, you can check it at home. Contact your car repair manual.

Vacuum leakage can affect engine power.

Vacuum leakage or why engine power loss occurs

The leakage can occur due to a weakened, damaged or broken vacuum hose, distilled gasket or a damaged laying of the throttle housing.

What can you do: The usual technique for determining vacuum leakage is the use of rubber hose:

• Run the engine and let it work at idle.
• Using the rubber hose, put one end of the hose on the ear, and the other end to listen to various vacuum hoses.
• Trace the hoses with your diagnostic hose
• Check around the edge intake manifold and throttle gaskets.

The flowing vacuum hose or the gasket will make a hissing sound, and you can hear it with a rubber hose. Just be careful with moving engine parts while troubleshooting vacuum hoses.

Gearbox or clutch

If you have an automatic gearbox, and you have not been checked transmission fluid Recently, it's time to do it. If you have a manual gearbox, perhaps the clutch slippers.

Common symptom of low or contaminated oil for automatic box Transmission is slipping. Your engine works, but your car does not move. Power is not transmitted to the wheels, creating the impression that your engine lacks power. The same can happen in the car with mechanical box Transmissions when the grip is worn out, the force does not reach the wheels.

What can you do (automatic and manual):

Automatic transmission:

• Check out transmission oil After the engine reaches operating temperature (Drive by car or work at idle for 20 or more minutes).
• Mock the engine and leave it for three or five minutes.
• Then pull the oil probe gearbox.
• Rag wipe the tip of the tip of oil.
• Fully insert the dipstick in his tube and pull the dipstick again.
• Give Schuu to stay on a rag horizontally.
• The oil level should be between Add and Full marks towards the end of the probe. Otherwise, add the required amount of the recommended fluid for your car model.
• Check the liquid. It must have a clear reddish color. If the color is opaque and brownish or black, or has an burned smell, replace it. Refer to your car or repair manual.

Manual Transmission:

• Paront B. safe place, away from movement and people
• Install emergency brake
• Run the engine
• Set the transfer to high gear
• Slowly release the clutch pedal for two seconds (so as not to burn the clutch or flyer) and press the clutch pedal again
• If the grip is in order, the engine must stumble or stop as soon as you release the clutch
• If the grip is bad, your engine will continue to work normally

Usually water and acid are the most common enemies of the car exhaust system. But pollution, overheating of the system and large mileage can lead to air flow limit.

The most common victim of limiting the exhaust system is. In addition to failure or destruction during normal wear, internal catalytic components can melt due to overheating and contamination.

As soon as the catalytic neutralizer is drunk, you will notice a reduction in engine performance and, depending on the type of failure, a strong smell of rotten eggs overlooking the exhaust pipe.

But problems may not stop there.

What can you do:

Check out exhaust system on high backpressure.

Temperature test:

• Driving about 15 minutes, Park the car in the garage and turn off the engine.
• Raise the car and secure it safely on the jack racks.
• Using a kitchen thermometer, measure the intake pipe temperature on the catalytic neutralizer (be careful, the temperature may exceed 1400F).
• Remove the temperature of the outlet pipe on the catalytic neutralizer.
• A clear difference in temperature means the connected converter.

Test rattles:
Depending on the type of the installed converter and the type of malfunction, if the catalytic elements inside the converter are broken, the converter will thunder when the rubber hammer is shuffled.

Pressure test:

• Remove the oxygen sensor in front of the converter.
• Install the pressure gauge into the threaded hole.
• Start the engine.
• Remove pressure testimony at idle and at higher speeds.
• Indications high pressure Specify the connected converter or silencer.
• Disconnect the muffler and repeat the test to find an obstacle.

Vacuum test:

• Connect the vacuum meter to the vacuum hose that goes to the brake amplifier.
• At idle, open and close the throttle valve, allowing the engine to develop a speed of about 2500 rpm.
• You should see how the pressure gauge arrow dropped almost to zero, should return to the previous indication of about 5 inches of a mercury pillar (in inches of mercury) and return to the previous reading. If the arrow returns too slowly to the previous indication, you may have a faulty exhaust system.

Worn cylinders or rings will reduce the engine compression.

Compression

Poor acceleration may also cause engine compression problems. These problems are inevitable on engines with big mileage Or those who have a bad service story. And as miles accumulate, more engine power is lost due to wear cylinders, rings and pistons, as well as carbon accumulation around the valves. Engine restoration may be necessary and expensive.

Your car repair manual can help you pass this test.

Recent thoughts

You can avoid many problems with low power consumption and many other problems following the proper schedule of regular maintenance. I. Ignition system fuel system Often are the main fault perpetrators when the engine does not pull, but a number of components in other systems can also cause the same problem. This guide helps you find the source of the problem, fix it and save money.

As a rule, in the process of long-term operation vehicle Almost every driver sooner or later notices that the engine is badly pulling. In other words, force aggregate With difficulty copes with the loads, the loss is noted, the unit must be unwound to high revolutions to maintain the usual pace, the car is worse accelerated from the place, slowly gains speed, etc.

In this case, the motor in many cases works smoothly, not troit, no, knock or noise during operation. Immediately note, there is a fairly wide list possible causesThrough which the heated engine does not draw, the loss of the motor's power is noted on the cold and / or hot.

In this article we will talk about why the engine does not pull, as well as consider the most common malfunctions that manifest themselves in the form of losses of the power unit.

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Motor does not pull: the main reasons for reducing engine power

So, if no other symptoms, in addition to losing thrust, is not detected, then immediately need to pay attention to the quality of fuel, serviceability of the system and.

• As practice shows, more than half of the cases of reducing returns from the DVS are associated with combustible. The engine does not pull due to the fact that the tank may be flooded with poor quality or unsuitable for this type Motor fuel (for example, 92th gasoline instead of the 95th).

In some cases, after refueling, problems may also arise with the start of the motor, the engine appears. To solve the specified problem, it is enough to dilute the existing fuel higher-quality. Less often there is a need to completely drain fuel from the tank, after which an additional washing of the power system is performed.

Typically, such manipulations are needed when parallel to the loss of thrust is noted unstable operation of the engine, and under load, the engine is badly started, on the panel, etc.

Also owners petrol engines Can independently determine the quality of gasoline. To check the candle, you need to unscrew from the engine. The violation of the combustion process of the fuel and air mixture in the cylinders, as well as the presence of impurities in the combustion, can be revealed to ingun on the ignition candlelight and its color.

For example, if in the fuel there are many third-party metal-containing additives and additives, then the skirt and electrodes can be covered with a reddish in a brick color. Black Nagar will indicate that fuel burns defective, etc. In any case, failures in the process of combustion of the working mixture lead to the fact that the engine ceases to pull.

• The next step in diagnosis becomes. Reducing the efficiency of these elements is also accompanied by a drop in power of the power unit.

This is especially noticeable with sharp accelerations, and when the car is already moving at high speed. In other words, the engine does not have a "stock" for further acceleration.

Candles may be dirty, one should not exclude that their resource came to an end. To eliminate this problem, You can produce or immediately replace the entire set to the new one.

It is important to take into account that if new candles are correctly selected for concrete Engine In a calic part and other parameters, but still rapidly contaminated, then the cause of the loss of thrust is not in them. In this case, the formation of Nagara indicates problems with the mixing formation or combustion of the fuel charge in the cylinders.

• If everything is in order with candles, then it is necessary to check the condition of the fuel and air filter. In the first case, insufficient bandwidth can lead to the fact that the cylinders are not served necessary number Fuel for the preparation of the so-called "powerful" mixture.

As a result, the engine loses power, that is, does not pull under loads. In such a situation, it is enough to replace the specified filter element. As for the air filter, the problem is similar to the fuel filter, however, in this case, a lack of air is marked as part of the fuel-air mixture.

This leads to the fact that the fuel without a sufficient amount of oxygen burns defective. The power of the motor in such conditions is naturally falling, a tag is formed in the combustion chamber, candles, etc. are stiffed. To solve the problem, it is also necessary to replace.

Faulting system, ignition and impaired mixing

If Ignition Candle Problems and Filters can be defined directly on the road, then more serious problems associated with the system and ignition system are diagnosed and fixed on site is much more complicated. In cases where the engine is not gaining momentum, and jerks and failures are noted when the gas pedal is pressed, and or the injector is required.

Let's sharpen attention on a more common electronic injection. In the list of basic faults of modern injector DVS Allocate:

• malfunction, performance reduction or pollution of fuel pump filter mesh;
• malfunctions of injection injectors;
• problems with sensors or computer;
• malfunctions of the ignition system;
• air supply and leakage of fuel highways;

If we talk about the ignition system, except for candles should also be checked, ignition coils, etc. As for the fuel supplies, at the initial stage, the pressure in the fuel ramp (rail) should be measured. In parallel, the pressure regulator in the fuel ramp is also checked.

Often, many auto problems are associated with the fuel pump, which is located in the gas tank, as well as with the specified regulator. To measure fuel pressure to the rail, a pressure gauge is connected, the obtained values \u200b\u200bare compared with the recommended engine. If the pressure is below the norm, then the culprit can be both a gas station and pressure regulator.

The task of the regulator is to reset the excess fuel into the return at the moment when the pressure is above the norm. If the settings have come down or the regulator itself flows or faulty, then the fuel will be reset in the return time. To check this, the compressor or pump is pumped up air, the pressure in the rail grows. If the regulator has worked before the pressure indicator, which is recommended, the item must be adjusted or replaced.

Other reasons for reduced returns from the engine

The state of the motor also has a great influence. The fact is that to protect the environment from harmful emissions During the operation of the OI, catalytic neutralizers are installed in the release.

During operation, the filter catalyst can collapse, the bandwidth of the release system is reduced. As a result, the engine "strangled". The check is performed by pressure measurements before and after the catalyst. You can also remove the item and inspect its condition visually.

As a rule, in official services offered to replace the worn item, however, the price of spare parts is very high. For this reason, on many cars in the CIS, the catalyst is simply knocked out, and the control unit is "cheating" programmatically or other available ways.

Also, when reducing the power of the engine, it is necessary to separate separately to eliminate the likelihood of the phase failure of gas distribution. Sometimes there are situations where the belt can jump on one tooth, the chain is stretched, etc.

In this case, the synchronous operation of the valve mechanism in relation to the work of the engine's work can be broken. This leads to various failures, unstable work Aggregate and power reduction.

We also add that engine wear and certain malfunctions also affect the power of the motor. As a rule, worn-out DVS with mileage usually lose about 10% of the stated power.

If the driver feels that the loss is more, then in the engine you need. Low compression in cylinders may result from wear of the cylinder walls, piston rings, or incomplete closure, etc.

Anyway, any looseness in the combustion chamber will lead to the fact that the expanding gases during the combustion of fuel will break from the cylinder. This means that the pressure of these gases to the piston will decrease, and the OI itself will be bad and unstable to work.

Finally, we note that the reason that the car lost in the dynamics may not be the engine, but a transmission. In other words, the power unit develops enough power, but it is not fully transmitted to the wheels.

Usually it is manifested that the engine roars, the turnover is high, but the car does not go or overclocking is very slow on reduced transmissions. Often, such problems are associated with the adhesion or voltage of automatic transmission, as well as with the twinkling of the brake system. To check the brakes, it is enough to dispel the car on roven road, then turn on the neutral gear.

If when moving rolled it is noticeable that the car immediately began to slow down, then the problem is obvious, the wheels are slightly blocked. If there are no problems with brakes, then the diagnosis of automatic transmission is necessary. The specified procedure is better to entrust the experienced specialists by delivering a car to the service.

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Appointment, design features, fuel pressure regulator injector Engine. Signs of malfunctions of the RTT, checking the device.