How many kilometers does Megan 2 go without repair. Renault Megane II: operating experience according to owner reviews

Renault-Megan of the second generation is a modern car, but even it sometimes makes owners jittery. So, one day the engine may not start. Some owners are very scared that the engine is out of order. In fact, if Renault-Megan 2 does not start, then the problem lies not in the engine itself, but in additional components and assemblies. Let's take a look at the root causes of startup failure and find out how to troubleshoot these issues.

Main reasons

If the car did not start in the morning, then this may be due to the following reasons. Most often there are problems with the starter or fuses. Also, problems can often lie in the battery or wiring. In the car, the position sensor is also involved in the starting process crankshaft- if it fails, the Renault-Megan 2 will not start. There may be a problem with the engine power system. The fuel pump is faulty or there is no power in its circuit.

Do not discount the banal carelessness. The driver could forget that there is not enough fuel in the tank. It is worth paying attention to the fuel level sensor on the dashboard more often. If the indicator lights up, then there is little fuel left in the tank - this volume can be enough for 50 kilometers. When the lamp comes on, you need to refuel the car.

Also, if Renault-Megan 2 does not start, make sure that the Check Engine light is off. If the lamp is off, then the reason is definitely not in the engine. This will help narrow down the possible causes when troubleshooting. Let's take a closer look at each of them to understand how to fix it. This information can greatly help new car enthusiasts and those owners who do not know this car.

Battery

This is the most commonplace of faults. It is easy to diagnose it - the motor does not start, but the starter turns on. Often the battery can be charged, and the starter can even turn on. But the capacity of the battery may not be enough to generate a spark, which should ignite the fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. The battery needs to be charged or you can use a booster. If this is the case, the engine will start.

In addition to the charge level, the terminals on the battery can be oxidized. Oxides can be subtle and almost invisible to the human eye. But they are quite enough to create a very real resistance, which reduces the inrush currents of the battery. The terminals on the battery must be well cleaned of oxides. This applies not only to the contacts themselves on the battery - what is connected to these contacts is also subject to cleaning. Sometimes this operation can solve problems with starting the engine.

Engine electrical system

If the starter turns, and Renault-Megan 2 does not start, then you should look for the reason in electrical connections... It is electrical problems that are especially common of this kind.

One or more wires may be damaged. It also happens that some contacts are oxidized. The ECU connector, wiring to injectors, fuel pump wiring, sensors are responsible for starting the engine. It is worth checking the crankshaft position sensor connector. He is directly involved in starting the engine. According to the data from this sensor, the ignition system works. Contacts can be clogged with dirt, oil, and other elements. All wires and connectors should be wiggled. If the reason was the contacts, then the engine must start.

Circuit breakers

When the starter turns, and the Renault-Megan 2 does not start, it is worth checking the fuses. Perhaps one of them, responsible for any systems involved in the startup process, burned out. A defective fuse must be replaced.

Starter does not turn

If there is no reaction to turning the key or pressing the engine start button, then the situation is worse, but still not very scary. But the owners this car should be aware that in these models the starter is a headache. It is located at the bottom of the engine, at the back. It easily gets water and dirt from the road.

If the starter does not turn, then the first thing to check is the battery and its terminals. Next, check the wires going to the starter. This one is thick from positive terminal battery and thin from the ignition block. If the wires are in order, then check the condition of the "ground" contact of the engine. This contact is established in an unfavorable place and is often clogged. You need to clean it up.

Also, if the starter on Renault-Megan 2 does not start, check the ignition lock. Often the reason lies in it. Contacts in contact group can burn, oxidize, burn out completely. One thin wire goes from the ignition switch to the starter - when the key is turned, +12 V appears on it. This voltage on the small contact activates the retractor and holding winding of the starter retractor relay. If the contact is broken, then the voltage on the wire will not appear, and the starter will not be able to start the engine.

If Renault-Megan 2 does not start from the button, then, perhaps, the reason is hidden in the wiring from the battery to the starter. The principle of operation of the button is similar - when a short circuit on a thin wire to the starter, a voltage appears that activates the winding of the solenoid relay. If the starter does not turn on, then this does not necessarily indicate its failure. Most often, the reason lies in the banal lack of contact.

Solenoid relay

When the key is turned in the ignition switch or when the button is pressed, the retractor relay is activated. It extends the starter bendix, but also closes the power contacts. A power plus comes from the battery terminal to the solenoid relay. The minus is taken from the engine body. Further, when the solenoid relay is triggered, the positive contacts of the battery are closed with the wire supplying the starter motor.

It is also recommended here to carefully check all the connection points and the wires themselves. It is not uncommon for the starter motor not to start the engine precisely because of this. Thick wires may appear to be in good order only visually. Inside, they consist of a large number of thin veins - during operation, these veins break, break. As a result, the contact inside the wire can be provided with fewer cores. And if we take into account that the starting currents for the starter are high enough, then in such a wire the current strength drops.

You should also check the power plus terminal. The place where the terminal is connected to the wire can be oxidized. Oxides are resistance. Copper bolts are used as contacts on the solenoid relay. They are also subject to active oxidation. If the starter does not work, then it does not hurt to check them.

If the retractor relay is working properly, then after turning the key, a characteristic click will be heard. This suggests that the starter brushes are at least intact. The solenoid relay takes the "minus" precisely from the negative brushes of the starter motor.

How to check the retractor?

If after clicking nothing else happens, then you need to check this relay. This can be done by closing the power plus and the small contact. If the relay clicks and the starter motor starts to rotate, then the reason is in the ignition switch. If not, then in contacts and retractor. There are contact plates inside the element, which over time can burn and lose contact.

You can check the starter motor as follows - with a screwdriver, close two bolts on the retractor relay. The electric motor should be spinning. A good starter should not heat up. The same applies to the solenoid relay.

Crankshaft position sensor

If the Renault-Megan 2 car does not start, and the starter turns the engine properly, then the fact is that when the ECU stops receiving data from this sensor, the start is blocked. You cannot unlock the system without information from him. Most often, it is not the sensor itself that fails on this car, but the connector. To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to clean the contacts in the terminal. And for sure everything will work out.

But you need to take into account certain nuances. The connector is very fragile and delicate. If there is no experience with such elements, then it is better to act as carefully as possible. And access to the element is also difficult.

Gasoline pump

A common reason when the Renault-Megan 2 engine does not start is a gas pump. If it fails, then gasoline stops flowing to the fuel rail and injectors. Usually the pump does not break, but the contact in its connector is lost. The problem here, typical for the entire model as a whole, is the fragility of the connector. Access to it is difficult, but the contact needs to be cleared. To access fuel pump, you need to remove the rear seat. The pump is electric, submersible. And it is placed directly in the fuel tank. Fortunately, a special hatch is provided for access to it. By unscrewing a couple of screws, you can provide access to the element. After that, we take out the mechanism complete with a float and a glass. And then we check the condition of the contacts and wires that go to it. Here we can visually identify all damage. By the way, if the pump does not hum when the ignition is turned on, it means that no voltage is supplied to it at all.

Renault-Megan 2 often does not start after downtime. Even if the car has been standing for two or three days in the bright sun, the next day it may not start. The starter motor will spin, but the car will not start. This all concerns the fuel pump. Also, the pump may not produce the required pressure, and without a certain pressure in the fuel rail, the engine also does not work (or the car moves in jerks).

Throttle valve

The throttle valve problems in this car are not related to clogging. Often settings on it disappear in some way. In this case, throttle adaptation helps.

Scanning errors

To find out why Renault-Megan 2 does not start, you can use a diagnostic scanner. The vehicle is equipped with a diagnostic system and has an error memory. Among them, there are definitely those that affect the launch. For example, the reason may actually be a weak pressure in the fuel rail, knocked off timing marks, in the camshaft or crankshaft sensor.

"Megan 2" 1.5 DCI

There can be a lot of the above reasons. But if Renault-Megan 2 1.5 DCI does not start, then it is possible that they tried to start the car “from the pusher”. This can lead to knocked down timing marks. On this engine, the tooth on the gear from which the sensor receives an impulse camshaft, is located on the injection pump pulley. If the synchronization is out of order, the car will not start.

Diesel engine

If the starter works unevenly, in jerks, the engine does not show signs of life, then the timing belt should be checked. It may be torn. If the starter turns normally, smoke comes out of the pipe, but the engine does not start, then this indicates that there is at least fuel in the cylinders. So, this is definitely not a high-pressure fuel pump. So, you need to check the filter (it can be clogged with dirt), the fuel line, the quality of the fuel and the level of paraffin that is contained in it. These signs can be a signal for the need to repair the injectors.

The situation when the starter turns, but appears White smoke and diesel Renault-Megan 2 does not start, the mixture does not ignite in the cylinders or only partially ignites. Wherein fuel system quite serviceable. The glow plugs may be defective. Could have jumped the injection pump belt. And the worst diagnosis is low compression.

Conclusion

If then the first thing to check in this car is the wiring and connectors of the sensors, the fuel pump connector. it weak spots this model. Power to the pump is often lost. Also, the connection in the sensor connectors is lost. If the Renault-Megan 2 1.6 does not start, then the reason in most cases is precisely in the wiring and only then in everything else. If the wiring is checked, then further diagnostics depends on whether the starter is turning or not.

The second generation of Renault Megan cars was presented at the 2002 Paris Motor Show. After the debut, the production of five-door and three-door hatchbacks began, a year later a coupe-convertible with a CC prefix and a compact van called Scenic II went on sale, in the same year the French manufacturer decided to supplement the proposed din with the Break station wagon. In 2006, the first generation of the model underwent restyling, and in 2008 it was discontinued.
The most memorable and striking detail in the appearance of the second generation Megan was the luggage compartment lid, which caused an ambiguous reaction among motorists.
Body. Used Renault Megane of the second generation, rubber glass seals tend to peel off by themselves. Hatchbacks of 2005 production also have one weakness, they fly apart for no apparent reason rear glass, therefore, before buying such a copy, it is better to make sure that its former owner eliminated this problem and did not ignore the recall campaign. The second-generation Renault Megan sedans suffer from an even more exotic problem, in some models the roof bulges in severe frosts. Most often, such cases were noted in the winter of 2006 in severe frosts, the reason for this phenomenon was the firmly attached panels of thermoregulation of the roof, which shrank from the cold and pulled the metal along with them. In 2007, the creators began to use thermal insulation from other materials. Therefore, if you find traces of repair in older cars, then this is not a sign of an emergency past.
All the bodies of the used Renault Megane II cars received quite reliable protection against corrosion: the boot floor and front fenders were made of polypropylene plastic, and all metal panels were galvanized. But in any case, time affects the body, and rust may appear on the rear wheel arches in places where the paint is wiped off to metal. Owners of such vehicles should regularly monitor the condition of the anti-gravel stickers on the rear fenders, as they easily come off during washing. Owners should also clean the gutter holes at least once a year in front of the windshield, otherwise, you can not only dilute the swamp in the cabin, but also severely spoil the thermoregulation and sound insulation in the engine compartment and even change the trapezoid of the wipers, which, moreover, will not be able to for a long time work after that.
When inspecting a second-generation Renault Megan car, special attention should be paid to the work of lighting equipment. It is known that the xenon ignition unit can often fail due to the ingress of moisture into it through the oxidation of the electrical contact. Nearby halogen lamps do not last for a long time, and it is very difficult to change them, this has to be done by touch through special hatches located in the front wheel arches. Pre-styled sedans suffer from melting of the rear light diffuser, in addition, their optics often turn out to be leaky.
Salon. Compared to the body of a used Renault Megane II car, its interior is less avant-garde, but in general everything is quite spacious and comfortable. Inside this vehicle there is a large number of different drawers, stashes, pockets and glove compartments.
One of the weakest points of the cabin is considered to be power windows, or rather, control buttons. The fabric used for the upholstery of the doors does not have sufficient resistance to staining. With intensive use, the rubber-plastic coating on the inner surface of door handles can completely peel off after a few years.
The left A-pillar somewhat restricts side view visibility. Torpedo on some copies annoys squeaks windshield... The driver's seat can comfortably accommodate people of any configuration due to a wide range of steering wheel and driver's seat adjustments. But in winter, the carpet tends to crawl out from under the linings.
Both the station wagon and the Renault Megane sedan have a longer wheelbase than the hatchback, thanks to which the passengers in the rear row of seats feel more comfortable. In hatchbacks, the roof height is sufficient for comfortable seating of passengers of average height up to 1.8 m.
The interior climate control system may refuse to work due to the control unit or the fan; after a run of 100 thousand km, the situation deteriorates significantly, since there is a high probability of jamming of the air conditioner compressor. After 80-100 thousand kilometers, a break in the steering column may occur in the wiring bus; clicks when turning the steering wheel are the harbingers of this problem, in which case the owners have to change the steering column switch block.
On a used Renault Megane II, the rear wiper may suddenly fail, the driver has to turn off the ignition and wait a while to turn it on again.
Cars manufactured before 2007 often had to change the head of the factory audio system under warranty due to the display turning off.

Motor. In domestic car markets, only the second generation Megan gasoline modifications were officially sold, the most common of which were versions with a working volume of 2.0, 1.6, 1.4 liters. Most a common problem 1.6-liter and two-liter units have become a short-lived valve timing mechanism. In the best case, it is capable of serving 80-100 thousand km, but sometimes its refusals were recorded even for 30 thousand km. This malfunction in a 1.6-liter engine is manifested first by a knock at start-up, and in a two-liter engine unpleasant sound resembling diesel engine, heard constantly on idle... If you regularly process individual coils in the places of contact with the candle with special grease, then this should slightly extend their life. On all second-generation Renault Megan gasoline cars, produced before 2006, the creators installed only coils called Sagem, which could not even nurture up to 30-40 thousand km.
In a 1.6-liter unit, failures of the sensor responsible for the position of the camshaft often occur. He suffers from problems that are inherent in all units. If the engine refuses to start, the reason may lie in the blocking of the ECU start button or in a slightly dead battery, or in the oxidation of the crankshaft sensor contact. For active drivers, the rear engine support often only withstands 30-40 thousand km, practice shows that with a 1.6-liter engine it lasts several times longer.
It is advisable to change the water pump for any of the proposed engines together with the timing belt, as well as rollers, and this must be done every 60 thousand km. By the way, experts do not advise changing the belt in garage services, because the consequences of such a replacement can be dire (there you need to properly tighten the fastening bolts and correctly set the phases).
Two-liter and 1.6-liter engines have one of the most costly malfunctions - the variable valve timing system. This mechanism on many Renault Megane cars of the second generation, produced before 2006, was replaced under warranty, since the malfunction manifested itself at low mileage.
Transmission. With more powerful power units, six-speed mechanical gearboxes, and with less powerful - a five-speed "mechanics". They are considered a strong and reliable unit, so by themselves they do not let their owners down. Complaints can only cause oil seals to leak after a run of 100 thousand km and an indistinct lever stroke from birth. But on some specimens, after 10-15 thousand km at the moment of closing the clutch discs, jerks appear, which is especially often manifested in congestion and when the unit heats up in hot weather. This problem cannot be cured even by radical means - by replacing the basket assembly.
Experts do not advise buying a second-generation Renault Megan car of the second generation with an adaptive automatic transmission. This unit is sensitive to the level and quality of the oil, and also does not like working in a cold state. The risk group is always a torque converter and oil seals. And the modulation valves or even the entire valve body, the owners of such versions are forced to change due to strong jolts during gear shifting already at a run of 60-80 thousand km.
Chassis. The working chassis of the Renault Megane II machine is capable of providing quite comfortable movement on our roads. In front, manufacturers have installed independent suspension MacPherson strut, and a semi-independent suspension with a twist beam is installed in the back. If the rear suspension has no complaints from the masters, then there are enough complaints about the front. On versions produced before 2007, the thrust bearings on the A-pillars had to be changed after 15-20 thousand km. The reason for such a limited resource was insufficient protection from dirt.
In the front suspension, silent blocks could have a resource of 120-150 thousand km, but they are consumed before half of them together with non-removable worn out ball bearings. No one argues that non-original hinges can be purchased separately, but in this case, the strength of the lever with the ball bolted will be unknown to anyone.
Racks and bushings of stabilizers lateral stability 110-130 thousand km go without question, shock absorbers have a similar resource. And here rear shock absorbers it is more difficult, so they can start knocking up to 100 thousand km. As for the rear silent blocks, if on a run of 100-120 thousand km they begin to creak, then they are already torn.
The rack and pinion steering was equipped with an electric booster, it is able to change the gain depending on the speed. A weak point of the steering is the rack bushing, which breaks very quickly, as a result of which it begins to knock unpleasantly when driving over irregularities. The good news is that the steering rack has good maintainability. Branded tie rods also cannot be called durable; masters advise installing non-original spare parts that last much longer. But the steering tips run about two to three times longer than the steering rods.
On old cars, the electric drive of the anti-lock brake system sensor can break, this leads to system failure. Used Renault Megane of the second generation, created before 2006 rear brakes do not have special mudguards, and this significantly accelerates the wear of the inner pads.
Service and prices for spare parts. The indisputable advantage of the Renault Megane II is its repairable design. A locksmith can easily repair it mechanical part... If we talk about the cost of new original spare parts, then to most motorists their prices will seem unreasonably high, especially if these are specific parts. But the owners of this model can always turn to disassembly, since there are no problems with them, the prices there are average, the same as for many classmates.
Output. French cars cannot be denied their sophisticated style. It is contraindicated for pragmatic people to buy used Renault Megan of the second generation, they probably will not like it frequent breakdowns and problems with different nodes. But if you think that you can cope with most of the problems of this French model on your own, then the Renault Megane car, in addition to its unusual design, will be able to offer you a decent level of comfort, a high level of safety, fairly rich equipment for a low price.
Today on secondary market you can buy a used Renault Megane II at a price of $ 8,000 to $ 14,000.

Renault Megan of the second generation turned out to be very modern at the time of release and a safe car. The power structure of the body is quite well developed by specialists from Renault, which is confirmed by excellent result crash test from Euroncap.

In terms of corrosion resistance, there are also no problems. Of course, over time, dots or small swelling of paint may appear in some places, but finding a rotten Megan is almost unrealistic. An exception can be made only by cars that have been in serious accidents and poorly restored. The only significant problem with the body of the first issues was associated with sound insulation, which turned dull in severe frost and went in waves, taking the roof with it.

Also, after the purchase, it is worth treating the place with the body number, because there is a significant risk of corrosion and subsequent difficulties in registration actions.

Megan was delivered to Russia with 3 motors. This is 1.4 98 hp. (K4J), 1.6 110 hp (K4M) and 2.0 135 hp. (F4R). The first and the last are not so common on Meganes, so we will dwell on the 1.6 running engine itself. It has been produced from 1999 to the present day and is installed on many Renault models.

The main and widespread problem of this motor is the phase shifter.

Moreover, this problem does not apply to the 1.4 motor at all, due to the absence of a phase regulator there. And on two-liter, this problem can only come out with significant problems. While on 1.6, the malfunction manifests itself even at low mileage. Symptoms include a short-term crackling immediately after starting the engine, unstable engine operation, loss in dynamics, and an increase in fuel consumption. The solution to the problem is to replace the gear, since 2008 a modernized version has become available, but the problem remained and successfully migrated to the 3rd generation Megan.

Once every 60 thousand, the crankshaft pulley, from which the belt goes to the generator drive, will require replacement, because with wear of the pulley, axial play appears and there is a risk of jamming the mechanism. Together with the pulley, it is recommended to replace the crankshaft gears with a modernized installation with a key.

The rest of the engine is quite reliable and ready for high mileage.

There are no complaints about the mechanical transmission, with the exception of the small resource of the clutch unit. But there are enough questions on the machine, since this is the notoriously known to many - the French machine DP0 AL4.

DP0 AL4. Read about changing the oil in this automatic transmission

The main problems that may arise are the malfunction of the valve body solenoids and the failure of the valve body itself. This is influenced by the level of contamination of the oil, which affects the temperature and, accordingly, the greater load on the valve body. This is aggravated by the fact that the car does not have a separate automatic transmission cooling radiator; for this, a heat exchanger is used, which eventually clogs up and does not provide proper cooling of the automatic transmission.

As a preventive measure for malfunctions, it is possible to recommend not to use the automatic transmission in extreme modes, not to slip, to exclude abrupt starts especially with two pedals. Monitor the quality of the transmission oil and change if necessary. When replacing, flush the heat exchanger, or even better, install a full-fledged automatic transmission cooling radiator. In general, the gearbox is sufficient brake, and if there is no urgent need for an automatic transmission, it is better to refrain from purchasing a Megan with an automatic transmission.

The main electrical weaknesses are the ignition coils, the resource of which is 50,000-60,000 km. There are problems with the frayed steering column cable on the airbag. The fuse box is poorly located, which causes problems with access to it and at the same time increases the risk of moisture getting there.

It is also worth noting the rapidly failing bearing of the air conditioner compressor on machines manufactured before 2007, which fell under the revocable company.

On runs after 80,000, problems with the starter may occur.

On the chassis, it is worth noting the weak engine mountings, as well as the thrust bearings, which can crunch even at low mileage.

The steering rack runs more than 100,000, after which knocks may appear due to wear of the plastic sleeve. Otherwise, there are no critical problems with the chassis. Moreover, it should be noted that it is perfectly adapted to our roads.

The interior has some complaints about the plastic, it is quite oak. Over time, crickets appear in the panel. Outwardly, the salon looks outdated today.

Of the troubles, one can single out the ingress of water into the cabin from clogged drain pipes, so if one day you find a puddle at the passenger's feet - do not be alarmed, but start cleaning the drainage.

On runs over 100,000, there may be problems with the power windows, mainly the front ones.

In general, if you weigh all the nuances, the car turned out to be good, but not devoid of certain drawbacks, which together can make you wonder whether it is worth taking this model or, at a minimum, be prepared for possible problems.

Best regards, Alexander Talin.

Renault Megan second generation hatchback was presented to the general public in 2002. The extravagant design immediately won the hearts of buyers, providing a good start to sales of the new product. In 2003, variants of the Renault Megan 2 were shown in the sedan and station wagon bodies. Hatchbacks were assembled in France, sedans in Turkey, and station wagons in Spain. In 2006, Renault Megane 2 underwent "light", barely noticeable plastic surgery, receiving slightly modified headlights, taillights, radiator grille and front bumper. The interior remained unchanged, the instrument lighting became different, changing from red to white.

Renault Megane II 2002-2006

French family car often brought unexpected surprises to its owners. More often, problems arose with gasoline 1.6 liters, and the electrician of the car is a separate topic for conversation. Some owners spoke of the French brainchild as "revenge of the French for the defeat in 1812". Of course, this is a joke and most of the owners do not know the troubles, enjoying Renault Megane 2. And yet, it has weak points.

Engines

The range of Renault engines is small and is represented by 3 gasoline (1.4 l / 98 hp, 1.6 l / 115 hp, 2.0 l / 135 hp) and 2 diesel engines (1.5dCi / 80 hp, 1.9 dCi / 120 hp). There are very few diesel cars on the Russian market, they were not officially sold. All motors have a timing belt drive that requires replacement every 60 thousand km.

One of the massive problems faced by the owners of Renault Megan 2 is the small resource of the phase regulator. Its task is to change the valve timing, to improve the operating conditions of the engine and obtain maximum torque indicators at medium speed and maximum power output - at high revs... Motors with a volume of 1.4 liters are devoid of a phase regulator, and therefore saved their owners from trouble. If the regulator malfunctions, it is difficult to start the engine, which may be accompanied by a crackling sound for 2-5 seconds. An engine running at idle speed resembles a diesel engine in sound and vibration, an increase in oil and fuel consumption is possible, traction drops, and interruptions in operation occur. The problem manifests itself more often with a mileage of more than 100 thousand km, less often - already at 30-40 thousand km. Officials stated that the completion of this unit was made in 2008, and now it will provide long-term operation, but practice has shown that there have been no fundamental changes. As a rule, the problem occurs in engines running on low-quality engine oil, and with an extended oil change interval. More frequent oil renewal and control over its condition significantly extend the life of the phase regulator up to 140 - 150 thousand km. Its replacement will cost 9-10 thousand rubles. On 2-liter engines, the phase regulator lives longer - more than 120 - 150 thousand km.

When replacing the phase regulator, do not forget to inspect the crankshaft pulley. Its resource is about 60 - 80 thousand km, and replacement will require about 2 - 3 thousand rubles. The pulley consists of two parts, inner and outer, connected by a "rubber" damper. Due to the destruction of the connection, the outer part is displaced relative to the inner part, which manifests itself in the form of axial beating of the pulley, which entails a displacement of the alternator belt. If the pulley is completely destroyed, the crankshaft may jam and the timing belt may break. Even slight displacement is easily noticeable when the engine is running. According to the manufacturer's complaint, the replacement of the pulley on 1.6 liter engines was prescribed for TO-60 thousand km.

In the cold season, when starting Renault with a 1.6 liter engine, you can observe a strange picture, the revs soar up to 1000, and then drop to 400 rpm and freeze. After re-gasing, everything returns to normal. The automaker acknowledged the defect, citing an error in the ECU, condensation in the tank or contamination of the throttle valve as one of the reasons. On cars of 2008, the problem arises after 30 thousand km, on older cars - with a mileage of 80 - 100 thousand km.

When cleaning the throttle assembly, be careful with the throttle tube - it is very fragile. Do not forget to replace the rubber seals at the joints of the throttle with the engine and the branch pipe from the filter housing, which over time become tanned and begin to suck in air. The result is floating idle speed. After cleaning the throttle, the assembly needs to be calibrated.

Ignition coils are also a hassle. Their resource is about 60 - 80 thousand km. When the coil fails, the dynamics of the car drops, and during the acceleration process, twitching is felt. Sagem coils take care of the least, Beru lasts a little longer. You can determine the "dead" coil when replacing the candles, in this case, black soot appears on the latter along the edge of the thread. Replacing a faulty coil with a new one will cost 1000 - 1500 rubles. Often the reason for the failure of the coil is the ingress of moisture into the candle well, which turns into ice in winter. This is facilitated by the absence of a cover on the engine, as well as a gap under the hood in front of the windshield, which forms over time due to the sagging of the sound insulation with a seal.

The starter sometimes starts to be capricious after 80 - 100 thousand km. This could be caused by a solenoid fuse in the control and switching unit. Another reason may be the lack of contact on the starter power wire or burnt copper plates "retracting". Eliminating these causes is easy and inexpensive. To do this, you need to clean all the contacts on the retractor and wires, and stretch the power wire, due to the weak contact of which the retractor relay can melt. The most problematic Valeo starters - replacement with a new one will cost 10-12 thousand rubles.

The area with the engine number is corroded. In order not to have problems in the future when passing the TRP or selling Renault, it is better to treat the surface of the license plate with high-temperature grease as soon as possible.

The wire of the 2nd oxygen sensor (lambda probe), under the bottom - in the area of ​​the front doors, sags over time, which can lead to damage to it on the protrusions on the road. It is quite simple to fix the defect by additionally securing the hanging part of the wire.

Some owners of the 2nd Megan, after 100 thousand km, faced a short-term loss of traction during acceleration and difficulty in starting. The reason often lies in the clogged filter mesh of the fuel pump. After cleaning, the engine returns to normal. The fuel pump itself takes care of over 120 - 160 thousand km. Instead of a native one, the owners often install a domestic one from the VAZ 2110, but its resource is rather small, 20-50 thousand km. But the price attracts - 2,000 rubles against 10,000 rubles for the original.

The engine mounts also caused a lot of trouble for the owners. The reason is a constructive flaw, it turned out to be too weak. At its death, jerks (jerks) appear at the start, gear changes and throttle release. The rear lower support was the weakest. Some had to change it already with a mileage of 20-30 thousand km, while others managed to calmly overcome the mark of 100,000 km. On external examination, the defect may not be noticed. To diagnose the problem, you need to wiggle the engine. Replacement will cost 1500 - 2000 rubles. Since 2008, the support has been strengthened, and its resource has increased significantly. Experience shows that the support dies faster among those who like to “light it up”. It is not worth pulling with its replacement - the engine starts to "walk" in the engine compartment, which can lead to new problems. There were several cases of the engine falling onto the right CV joint due to a bursting bolt on the upper engine mount. The repair cost 25-30 thousand rubles.

The thermostat needs to be replaced after 80 - 100 thousand km, it is also obligatory to replace its gasket. If it starts to "sweat", stretch the mounting bolts. Otherwise, oil may get into the antifreeze and vice versa. If, after pulling the fasteners or replacing the gasket, the thermostat continues to "snot", you will have to replace it. Over time, its body is deformed from heating, and its tightness is lost.

The cooling system pump is able to work for about 60 - 100 thousand km, and it rarely runs more than 120 thousand km. The crankshaft position sensor will require replacement after 100 thousand km.

The catalyst, as a rule, dies by 90 thousand km. During operation, it sometimes causes discomfort due to noise (rattling) that appears when starting a cold engine. With warming up, the sound disappears. This feature manifests itself when the mileage is more than 30 - 60 thousand km. Megan mufflers quickly corrode, on the surface of which small holes of 0.5 - 1 mm in size are formed. There is no perceptible change in the sound.

Gasoline 1.6 liters - the most massive. The most reliable 1.4 l. Engines are no different increased consumption oil even with significant mileage, with the exception of a 2-liter engine. When the latter has run more than 100 thousand km, oil consumption increases to 1 liter per 5 thousand km, further increasing to 1 liter per 2000 - 2500 km, which is the norm. On a 2 liter engine, the ignition coils last longer.

There is very little information about diesel engines, but among the problems are burnout of the washer under the injectors with a mileage of more than 120 thousand km, and the appearance of cracks in the intercooler housing. The fuel filter requires replacement every 30 thousand km, and EGR valve cleaning is necessary every 60 thousand km. The turbine lives about 300 thousand km, on some specimens the oil in the intercooler appeared after 150 thousand km.

Transmission

The Renault Megane 2 was equipped with a manual and automatic transmission. Both boxes are not very reliable.

A common problem on manual transmissions is the whistle of the release bearing when the clutch is engaged. It appears after 60 - 80 thousand km. About 70% of Renault Megan 2 owners face twitching in traffic jams. The first tremors appear when the vehicle is driven over 60 thousand km. The reason is the quality of the material from which the clutch disc is made, in addition, when the disc heats up, damper springs drive. Contributes to this and the above problem with the lower engine mount. As a result, the clutch disc deforms and wears out unevenly. Replacing the clutch does not save for a long time, everything is repeated after 30-40 thousand km. Renault, oddly enough, knowing about the defect, does not make any fundamental decisions. The owners of the new Renault Megan III faced exactly the same problem. The clutch kit will cost 11-13 thousand rubles, and the non-original - about 6-8 thousand rubles. In most cases, the situation is saved by installing a clutch disc from Renault Scenic or Laguna, which will last at least 100,000 km.

A slight inconvenience is caused by the gear selector cable, which comes off the gear shift stage due to wear of the retaining piston. This happens when the mileage is more than 80 thousand km. The manufacturer recommended the oil in the box for its entire service life, but due to its low quality, car services advise to replace it every 60 - 80 thousand km.

Renault Megane II 2006-2008

The main reason for the failure of automatic transmissions is clogged valves in the directional valve. The problem may arise even after a mileage of 40 thousand km. Its solution will cost 6-8 thousand rubles. As a preventive measure, more frequent replacement oil and a leisurely driving style. Some machines passed the 200 thousand km mark, without any complaints. With a mileage of more than 60 - 80 thousand km, a number of owners encountered vibrations when shifting gears. The reason is the wear of the engine mounts, but there is also a less pleasant one - the destruction of the automatic transmission support mounting bolt. In the latter case, you will need to drill out the rest of the bolt and cut new threads.

Undercarriage

The weak element in the suspension is the thrust bearings, which begin to crackle at around 50-60 thousand km. Front wheel bearings serve at least 60 thousand km, and the rear more than 100 - 120 thousand km. By 80 - 90 thousand km, the stabilizer strut will require replacement, and by 100 thousand km the ball joint will also need to be replaced. With a mileage of more than 140 thousand km, the silent blocks of the subframe bracket, shock absorbers, silent blocks are suitable for replacement rear arm and stabilizer bushings.

For 60 thousand km, the steering tips will require replacement, and the steering rods extend up to 90 - 100 thousand km. The steering rack starts knocking after 100 thousand km. The reason is the wear of the plastic sleeve.

The brakes do not cause any particular complaints. The front pads run at least 30 thousand km, and the discs - about 50 - 60 thousand km, as well as the rear pads. Rear brake discs live at least 100 thousand km, and drums almost 250 - 300 thousand km. With a mileage of more than 100 thousand km, carefully inspect the brake hoses, which are starting to fray. Cases are not massive, but incidents with loss of tightness do occur.

Electrical equipment

The electric part of Renault Megan is a whole epic. Deep puddles can easily damage the fuse box due to water ingress. And the fuses themselves are not very conveniently located in the block, causing difficulties when replacing most of them.

If the charge from the generator is lost or the charge current is incorrect, the engine idle speed rises to 1000 - 1500. The reason is either a faulty relay-regulator or worn-out generator brushes. Sometimes even replacing the complete generator (15-16 thousand rubles) does not solve the problem. In this case, the banal disconnection of the chip from it helps. The problem arises when the mileage is about 60 - 80 thousand km and mainly on Valeo generators. By 100 thousand km, the generator pulley wears out.

Poor contact at the battery terminals or its early death cause electrical failures, manifested in the chaotic lighting of alarm lamps and the inclusion of electrical appliances, accompanied by a message on the screen of the on-board computer Electronic Fault. The same happens if the switching unit fails.

The airbag train in the steering column is cut off after 60 - 80 thousand km. It is sold only in assembly with steering column switches for 8-10 thousand rubles. Soldering to a new loop will be cheaper. A sign of an imminent break will be the appearance of a rustle in the steering column when you turn the steering wheel. The reasons are either a jump by a few teeth of the planetary gear sprocket, or a break in the loop fixing tongue, or an incorrect installation of the steering rack without fixing the steering wheel in a neutral position. Due to free movement, the train is crumpled and then broken.

On cars older than 2006, the image on the on-board computer display often disappears for a short time in wet and humid weather.

Often, when the mileage is more than 60 - 80 thousand km, power windows fail - mainly the front ones, since they are used more often. The reason is the jamming of the drive due to the destruction of the jumper of the plastic housing of the gearbox, as well as the wear of the drum on which the cable is wound. The assembled mechanism costs about 6-8 thousand rubles, but it is possible to manufacture a broken part to order. Those who have a pulse electric window motor installed will need to initialize them after removing power from the battery. Otherwise, the glasses will move in steps.

Clogged drain holes in front of the windshield lead to water flooding and failure of the wiper motor. In addition, in this case, the contact track on the switching and protection board burns out. Sour trapeziums will require lubrication for 100 - 120 thousand km.

The weak point is the corrugation between the trunk lid and the body. Despite the absence of external damage, often the wires there are cut off, which leads to the loss of license plate lighting and makes it impossible to control the trunk lock.

Over time, the reversing lights may also go out. The reason is the sticking of the contact of the reverse sensor and neutral.

Body and interior

The car body resists well the external aggressive environment, as an example of many eminent concerns. Chips from small stones do not rust. On cars older than 2 years, a paint defect appears, paint bubbles appear in the area of ​​the rear arches, which do not progress over time and do not rust. On some cars older than 2006, pits of corrosion are sometimes found on the thresholds and at the bottom of the doors. It is also possible for them to appear at the place where the trunk hinges are attached to the body - due to the accumulation of dirt there. Over time, the paintwork of the thresholds begins to give in to "sandblasting". Relatives steel wheels quickly become covered with foci of corrosion.

A large air vent on the back of the taillight allows insects to enter easily. In this case, a mesh fixed with glue or sealant will help.

Renault Megane II 2006-2008

After 40-60 thousand km, crickets often appear in the cabin. Their halo of habitation is very wide: dashboard, driver's seat, air conditioning control console, speed indicator glass, spring in the handbrake under the button, interior light and sun visors attachment point. Most often, the creak comes from the seal between the dashboard and the windshield, tanning over time. Noise sources and spare fuses under the left cover. Sometimes, when driving through irregularities, the rear doors begin to creak. Lubricating the locks and wrapping the door hinges with electrical tape helps to get rid of this. The clutch pedal also crunches, in this case lubrication of the bushing inside the clutch suspension will help.

On cars older than 3 years, the rubberized coating of the inner door handles will peel off, and the seat belts do not come back well due to the springs of the return mechanism that have lost their elasticity.

A big nuisance is the appearance of water in the cabin under the feet of the front passenger and driver. It penetrates into the passenger compartment through the air intake of the ventilation system. The reason is a design flaw in the water drainage system from under the niche in the area of ​​the wiper attachment. The drain is easily clogged and the flow rate of the drain valve is reduced. Over time, water also gets into the trunk due to the rubber seals of its lid that have lost its tightness.

Due to the sagging of the thermal insulation and the seal under the hood in the area of ​​the rear wall engine compartment, the heat from there enters the passenger compartment through the ventilation system. In this case, warm air always blows from the air ducts. The way out is to install an additional bracket on the seal.

The air conditioning system will also require close attention. Renault owners Megane II. Often the reason for not turning on the air conditioner is the connector behind the front bumper under the right headlight. Despite the whole insulation, the wire itself is damaged inside. At the same time, when you try to start the air conditioner, clicks are heard. The problem arises when the mileage is more than 60 thousand km.

Megans until 2007 fell under a revocable company due to a jammed air conditioning compressor. The bearing of the air conditioner clutch starts to make noise even with a mileage of more than 90 thousand km. Loss of tightness in the air conditioning system is a common problem that requires periodic refueling of the system. The weak link is the lower flange of the air conditioner radiator. If the engine starts to warm up in traffic jams, then it's time to clean the air conditioner radiator.

Conclusion

The result is a rather long list of possible malfunctions. Most likely, the bright appearance and a very attractive price in the secondary market will take up. Yes, and the described shortcomings are not so critical, moreover, most of them were eliminated during the warranty service.

Prices for Renault Megane II (2003-2009 years of release) were initially quite democratic. Add to them the avant-garde appearance for the early 2000s and good equipment - and here's the secret of its former popularity. In the secondary market, Megan is no less attractive, and it is getting cheaper pretty quickly. Maybe for a reason?

Europeans liked the extravagant hatchback, which in 2003, a year after its debut, became the European Car of the Year, and a year later took first place in sales in the "absolute". Our favorite is a more spacious and practical sedan (80% of sales), which was launched in 2004 in Bursa, Turkey. And all station wagons (15% of sales) are assembled in Spain.

Any of the bodies, regardless of the type or place of production, is well protected from corrosion - the metal panels are galvanized, and the front fenders and the boot floor are made of polypropylene. But who is without sin? Rust can appear on the rear wheel arches with paint that has worn to metal - by the way, watch out for the intact anti-gravel stickers on the rear fenders, which are easily torn off by a strong jet of water during washing.

The salon does not look outdated even after the change of generations, but with age it "gets" squeaks, and the VDO Dayton head unit for cars older than 2007 is prone to failures

Short chain mail - the limp carpet at every opportunity crawls out from under the overlays

Electric windows are not reliable, and the fabric of the door upholstery is not stain-resistant. The rubber-plastic coating of the inner door handles during intensive use begins to peel off after a couple of years

0 / 0

The cause of premature failure of the support bearings of the front struts is insufficient protection from dirt. The electric power steering (1700 euros) is not repairable and must be replaced in case of any malfunction

Automatic transmission DP0 - a real time bomb that can "jerk" through 60-80 thousand kilometers

There are no special complaints about manual transmissions, but be sure to check the condition of the oil seals and gaskets - so that they do not leak

When replacing a faulty phase shifter on gasoline engines of the K4M and F4R models, a new timing belt will be required.

0 / 0

Rubber glass seals peel off on their own, and in 2005 hatchbacks the rear window can fly apart for no apparent reason - when buying, make sure that the former owner did not ignore the branded revocable company.

Sedans have an even more exotic problem - during severe frosts, their roof can swell! The peak of the epidemic happened in the harsh winter of 2006, and the fault was the thermal noise insulation firmly glued to the roof panel - shrinking from the cold, it pulled the metal along with it. Since 2007, mats from a different material have been used, and traces of roof repairs on older cars are not at all a sign of their accident rate in the past.

Renault is trying to position the Scenic compact van as an independent model, but technically it's the same Megane II

The body of the SS coupe-cabriolet when driving on uneven roads "plays" perceptibly, and the components of the folding rigid roof are loosened over time

The sedan's wheelbase is 65 mm longer than that of the hatchback, but due to the sloping roof and piled-up struts, it is less comfortable to sit in the back.

The fastest of the Megan's, the RS is supercharged to 224-230 hp. two-liter engine F4R, outwardly almost did not stand out

Five-door hatchbacks are rare on our roads, and three-door hatchbacks are utterly exotic

The station wagon is built on the same long-wheelbase platform as the sedan. Because of the Spanish assembly, the new one cost 60 thousand rubles more, so it did not gain the same popularity

0 / 0

The electrician does not regret dampness: the contacts of the lamps are oxidized (in dorestyling sedans older than 2006, the diffuser is also melted from local overheating), xenon ignition units fail (200 euros each). Electric door glass drives are poorly protected from water (300 euros), and their control buttons do not shine with reliability even when dry.

The "climate" of the cabin is equally likely to go on strike due to a fan failure (250 euros), its control unit (180 euros), and after 100 thousand kilometers, even worse - because of a jammed air conditioner compressor (900 euros). In cars of the early years of production, it was often necessary to change the "head" of the standard audio system under warranty, whose display did not go out when the ignition was turned off.

The main "consumables" in the front - levers and steering rods

Silent blocks of the rear suspension do not differ in special survivability, but are located in plain sight - it is not difficult to control their condition

0 / 0

It can be easier to extinguish an illuminated airbag malfunction signal by inspecting the electrical connector under the driver's seat. Worse, if after 80-100 thousand kilometers the cause is a break in the wiring bus in the steering column - its harbingers will be clicks when you turn the steering wheel, and you will have to change the entire block of steering column switches (250 euros).

And do not be lazy at least once a year to clean the drain holes in front of the windshield (for this you will have to remove the windshield wiper leads and the protective plastic casing). Otherwise, you risk not only making a swamp in the cabin and spoiling the thermal insulation of the motor shield, but also unscheduled changing the "trapezium" of the wipers (400 euros complete with a motor): being drowned in the "pool" of the catchment tray, it will not last long.

They do not like dampness and numerous electrical wiring connectors under the hood - it is better to think twice before washing the engine. And it is advisable to treat individual ignition coils (45 euros each) even without washing with special grease at the point of contact with the candle - this is a chance to somehow extend their life. Where the coils are located and how to change them is probably known to every "meganovod" - this weakness was inherited from the machines of the first generation. Until 2006, only Sagem coils were installed on all gasoline Megans, which sometimes did not live up to 30-40 thousand kilometers. Then Beru or Denso reels were installed on most of the machines - they last much longer.

If the engine does not want to start at all, the search for the culprits should be started with the crankshaft position sensors and camshafts(30-40 euros). A more expensive source of trouble for the most common 1.6 engine (85% of cars on our market) and for a two-liter unit (6% of cars) is a variable valve timing system. Before the unit was modernized during restyling in 2006, the phase shifter in the gas distribution mechanism (500 euros) was meekly changed under warranty, which often became the first surprise for owners of very fresh cars with a mileage of only 20 thousand kilometers. At first, the mechanism quietly wedges, which complicates the start of the motor in frost, and then loudly declares its fatigue (at first - only after a cold start) by "diesel" rattling - the sealing plates of the phase shifter rotor blades wear out and the retainer socket in the stator housing breaks.

Be careful - the low-lying plastic boot bottom is easy to split. On cars before 2006, rear brakes not equipped with mud guards, which leads to accelerated wear of the inner pads

In winter, the plastic flap of the gas tank often freezes, and an attempt to open it ends in a breakage of the retainer

0 / 0

Active drivers of cars with a brisk two-liter engine often finish off the rear support of the power unit after 30-40 thousand kilometers (with a 1.6 engine it usually lasts two to three times longer), and it makes sense to change the water pump to any of the units along with the timing belt every 60 thousand kilometers - it is unlikely to make it to the next one. By the way, do not be tempted to change the belt in "Uncle Vasya's garage": the pulleys on the crankshaft and camshafts sit without keys, and you need not only to correctly set the phases, but also to tighten the fastening bolts correctly - the consequences of turning the pulley are no better than when the belt breaks ...

Transmission problems? There are. Mechanical boxes gears - that six-speed in two-liter cars, that "five-speed" with less powerful motors - by themselves rarely fail. They can only be blamed for the lever stroke that was inaudible from birth and for leaks in the oil seals after 100 thousand kilometers (watch the oil level - otherwise the differential bearings will suffer). But jerks at the moment of closing the clutch discs often begin after some 10-15 thousand kilometers. The twitching is especially noticeable when the node heats up in the heat or when driving in congestion - and it cannot be radically cured even by replacing the assembled “basket” (250 euros).

But this is a saying. And a fairy tale - an adaptive "automatic" DP0 (cost 3500 euros), under the name AL4, bothered the owners of Peugeot and Citroen cars (AR No. 11 and 18, 2009). The unit, which debuted in 1999, has been improving all its life, but it has remained capricious. The box does not like to work in a cold state and is sensitive to the oil level (in the absence of a dipstick, it can only be checked on a lift). In the risk group, both oil seals and a torque converter (a bulkhead will cost 700-1000 euros), but more often - sometimes after 60-80 thousand kilometers - due to strong shocks during switching, you have to change the modulation valves or the entire valve body (200-450 euros ).

The metal of the body is reliably protected by galvanizing: the chip in the photo is more than a year old

The anti-gravel stickers on the rear fenders are weak. On the other hand, this car's sticker flew off completely

Plastic front fenders are not afraid of light bumps, but the bumper clips on them break off with ease

0 / 0

Weaknesses in the suspension are also known. Take at least the support bearings of the front struts (100 euros) - before the reinforcement of the structure in 2007, their warranty replacements due to tapping on irregularities happened even after 15-20 thousand kilometers. But when you hear a rattling in the steering column, do not rush to the service immediately - on every second car this is the norm: the steering shaft could reach the travel stop in new cars. The "rake" itself (600 euros) usually requires surgical intervention with the replacement of a broken bushing no earlier than 70 thousand kilometers. As a rule, the steering tips hold the same amount, but the rods (40 euros each) have time to be updated a couple of times until then - that rare case when it makes sense to put a more durable "non-original".

Silent blocks of McPherson front suspension arms could serve 120-150 thousand kilometers each, if they had not been consumed twice earlier, together with levers (100 euros each) with worn-out non-removable ball bearings. Of course, non-original hinges can be bought separately, but how strong a lever with a bolted ball will be is an unanswered question.

Low-beam halogen lamps do not last long, but change Jesuitically - to the touch, through the hatches in the front wheel arches

Does the windshield fog up quickly and there is a lot of dirt under the hood? This means that the sound insulation of the engine shield has swollen and the seal has sagged. To clean the drain pipes, you will have to dismantle the wiper arms and the cover under the windshield. Short-lived ignition coils (they are of different brands on this engine) change easily - spare ones in the trunk will not interfere

Bushings and anti-roll bar bushings are surprisingly durable, giving no reason to remember them up to 110-130 thousand kilometers - the same amount are, for example, front shock absorbers (90 euros). Rear shock absorbers working at a large angle (50 euros) are harder - they often give out their fatigue not by leaks, but by knocks before 100 thousand kilometers, and pay attention to the silent blocks of the rear beam (70 euros) after 100-120 thousand kilometers: if they creak - then torn.

You probably already understand why the Renault Megane II is becoming so seductively available at an age. But if the soul nevertheless asks for it, we advise you to pay attention to cars after restyling in 2006 (the French call them cars of the second phase) - many "childhood diseases" have been cured, and reliability raises fewer complaints. How tempting are the prices? Four to five-year-old cars with a 1.4 engine are estimated at 300-400 thousand rubles, with a 1.6-liter engine - at 330-450 thousand rubles - the same price fits, for example, Chevrolet lacetti(AR No. 14-15, 2010) or Peugeot 307 (AR No. 11, 2009), and more reliable peers Toyota Corolla or Mazda 3 is more expensive. And the most interesting offer is, of course, two-liter Meganas: they are more expensive than only by 10-20 thousand rubles. And, of course, it is better to prefer "mechanics" - although you will have to get used to the jerky nature of the clutch.

Vladimir Khvatkin

27 years old, Moscow, system administrator

My previous car was also Renault Megane II, but in a poor configuration Authentique, with a 1.4 engine and "mechanics". For five years from unscheduled replacements- only ignition coils under warranty. That Megane conquered me with the convenience of the interior and the comfort of the suspension, so I changed it to a hatchback - also five years old, with the same mileage of 80 thousand kilometers, but in the Dynamique configuration, with a 1.6 engine and automatic transmission. I knew about the weakness of the box, but on this car the valve block has already been replaced under warranty. But I "got" to the phase regulator of the engine - a few months after the purchase, replacing it with a belt and a pump cost 15 thousand rubles, and then by acquaintance. Soon, on this engine, it was necessary to change half of the ignition coils (no longer under warranty, at 1000 rubles apiece). Further - steeper: due to the closure of the wiring rotted in the rear door, the fuse box first flew, and then the starter burned out (a tow truck and repairs with used spare parts cost 17 thousand rubles). And all this happened in a year and 15 thousand kilometers. In general, my next car is unlikely to be a Megane.

Decoding VIN of cars Renault Megane II
Filling	VF1	L	M	1A	0	H	33345678
Position	1-3	4	5	6-7	8	9	10-17
1-3	Country of origin, manufacturer		VF1 - France, Turkey, Renault; VF2 - France, Renault; VS5 - Spain, Renault
4	Body type		B - hatchback, 5 doors; С - hatchback, 3 doors; L - sedan; K - station wagon; D - convertible
5	Model		M - Megane II
6-7	Engine		08, 0B, 0H, 1A, 1S, 20 - petrol, 1.4 l; 0C, 0J, 0Y, 1B, 1R, 1Y, 24, 2D, 2E, 2F, 2K, 2L, 2M, 2S, 2Y - gasoline, 1.6 l; 05, 0M, 0S, 0U, 0W, 11, 1M, 1N, 1T, 1U, 1V, 23, 2G, 2J, 2N, 2P, 2R, 2T, 2V - petrol, 2.0 l; 02, 0F, OT, 13, 16, 1E, 1F, 2A, 2B - diesel, 1.5 l; 00, OG, 14, 17, 1D, 1G, 2C - diesel, 1.9 l; 1K, 1W - diesel, 2.0 l
8	Free character (usually 0)
9	Transmission type		H - mechanical, five-stage; D, 6 - mechanical, six-speed; E - automatic
10-17	Vehicle production number

Engine table for Renault cars Megane ii
Petrol engines
Model	Working volume, cm3	Power, hp / kW / rpm	Injection type	Years of release	Peculiarities
K4J	1390	98/72 /6000	MPI	2002-2006	R4, DOHC, 16 valves
K4J	1390	100/73 /6000	MPI	2006-2009	R4, DOHC, 16 valves
K4J	1390	82/60/6000	MPI	2003-2005	R4, DOHC, 16 valves
K4M	1598	112/82/6000	MPI	2002-2009	R4, DOHC, 16 valves
K4M	1598	105/77/6000	MPI	2002-2005	R4, DOHC, 16 valves
K4M	1598	102/75/6000	MPI	2002-2005	R4, DOHC, 16 valves
F4R	1998	136/99/5500	MPI	2002-2009	R4, DOHC, 16 valves
F4R	1998	163/120/5000	MPI	2005-2009
F4R	1998	224/165/5500	MPI	2004-2007	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo
F4R	1998	230/169/5500	MPI	2007-2009	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo
Diesel Engines
K9K	1461	106/78/4000	common rail	2005-2009
K9K	1461	101/74/4000	common rail	2005-2006	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
K9K	1461	110/81/4000	common rail	2006-2009	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
K9K	1461	86/63/4000	common rail	2002-2006	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
K9K	1461	80/59/4000	common rail	2002-2005	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
F9Q	1870	130/96/4000	common rail	2005-2009	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
F9Q	1870	120/88/4000	common rail	2002-2005	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
F9Q	1870	110/81/4000	common rail	2005-2006	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
F9Q	1870	90/66/4000	common rail	2004-2005	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
M9R	1995	173/127/4000	common rail	2007-2009	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
M9R	1995	150/110/4000	common rail	2005-2009	R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler
MPI - common rail fuel injection - battery injection system R4 - in-line four-cylinder DOHC engine - two camshafts in the cylinder head