What kind of oil to pour into the engine in winter: choice, advice. What kind of oil to fill in the engine for the winter? Summer winter engine oil

Hello everyone! With the advent of cold weather, the question of how to choose the right winter oil for the engine. On the one hand, it is simple, but on the other, there are some nuances. If you pour the first liquid that comes across or thoughtlessly follow the advice of a neighbor, you can harm the motor. Why is that? Let's figure it out.

Do I need to change the oil in the winter

At subzero temperatures, the engine is most demanding on the quality of the oil. The lower the viscosity of the grease during cold start, the better. Just in winter time the effect of engine oil starvation is observed. What it is?

As you know, at start-up, oil must be pumped through the engine. The sooner this happens, the better. Because for some time, the motor has to run almost dry. And when, inside the engine, metal rubs against metal, nothing good will happen.

Naturally, the thicker the engine oils, the harder it is for them to spread over all the details. In addition, the load on the battery also increases. No wonder, most failures rechargeable batteries falls precisely in the winter. Not only does it itself lose up to 40% of its capacity in severe frost, but also an additional load in the form of a thick lubricating fluid.

To combat this, you need to use high-quality winter or all-season grease, which will be stable when low temperatures... Therefore, all experts recommend changing the oil before the onset of cold weather. Even if there are still several thousand left before the planned replacement, this will be justified. Especially if a liquid with a low low-temperature viscosity is poured under the hood.

What is oil viscosity

- this is its main characteristic. It defines the maximum allowable temperatures at which the lubricating fluid retains its properties. If the car is operated in a gentle mode, in a warm climate, you can ignore the viscosity. The engine will feel good on any multigrade grease.

But, when the machine is used at extremely low or high temperatures- special attention should be paid to viscosity.

What is viscosity? In fact, it is the ability of the oil to create a lubricating film between the engine parts. There is a simple relationship here:

• high viscosity- the film is thicker;
• low viscosity - the film is thinner.

Basic viscosity requirements:

• it should not be too high - the lubricant layer on the parts will be too thick and the engine will work harder - as a result increased consumption fuel;
• it should not be low - the layer of the lubricating film will turn out to be thin - as a result, grinding of engine parts and its rapid wear is possible.

Therefore, the viscosity of the oil must be optimal. It should be understood that the concept of optimality for each engine will be different.

Viscosity index

A very interesting and most importantly important parameter that determines the performance of a lubricant. Let's take a closer look at it.

When the engine is running, it heats up and the oil viscosity drops. Those. it liquefies. The dependence of the rate of oil dilution is the index of its viscosity.

From here you can get the following dependence:

• the higher the index, the more slowly the oil loses its density, and, accordingly, the engine parts are better lubricated;
• the lower the index, the faster it liquefies. In this case, the lubricating film becomes thinner and engine wear increases.

In a sense, this parameter is a characteristic of the stability of the lubricant. Those. determines how well it performs at extreme temperatures. For choosing a winter oil, this means that the higher the viscosity index, the easier it will pass cold start engine.

Unfortunately, manufacturers do not indicate these values ​​on the canister. But, it will not be superfluous to know their average characteristics for different types oils:

1. Synthetic - 140-170.
2. Semi-synthetic – 130-150.
3. Mineral - 110-135.

As you can see, this indicator is the lowest for mineral water. Which is not surprising - it's not a secret for anyone that these lubricants turn into jelly in the cold.

Synthetics have the highest rate, but unfortunately, they can be used on new engines. Motors with high mileage no longer tolerate it so well.

SAE classification of engine oils

Each canister of oil has an SAE viscosity mark. For example:

• 10w40;
• 15w40;
• 5w30, etc.

What do these numbers mean, and how to understand which oil is best to pour into the engine for the winter? Let's figure it out.

There are 3 types of lubricant in total:

1. Summer.
2. Winter.
3. All-season.

It should be said right away that all-season fluids have practically supplanted summer and winter oil. Still, it is inconvenient to depend on the weather and change the lubricant when winter or summer comes. Moreover, all-season fluids provide stable work over a wide temperature range.

In fairness, it is worth noting that there is:

• 5 summer stamps – 20, 30, 40, 50, 60;
• 6 winter - 0w, 5w, 10w, 15w, 20w, 25w.

All-season fluids are marked like this: 10w40, 5w30, etc. The number in front of the letter w (winter) denotes the lower temperature limit at which the engine is lubricated during a cold start. The number after - refers to work at positive temperatures.

By the way, do not assume that these figures are equal to the extreme operating temperatures of the oil. Things are a little more complicated. And we'll figure it out soon.

Temperature regimes

Let's see what the SAE markings mean, and in what temperature conditions they can be used. For clarity, let's take several brands of oil:

• Mobile Super 5w30 - provides engine lubrication at temperatures down to -30 degrees;
• Lukoil Genezis Polar Special 0w30- a real extreme, the liquid is able to withstand temperatures of -40 degrees;
• Zik A + 10w30 is a universal multigrade oil that will provide a good cold start at temperatures down to -25 degrees
• Mobil Ultra 10w40 - a fluid with a higher high temperature viscosity, best used in warmer regions;
• Castrol GTX 15w40 - no longer suitable for cold winters, the cold start temperature is up to -15 degrees.

Thus, you can easily determine which engine oil for the winter is better.

Oil selection criteria

To determine what kind of oil to fill in the engine for the winter, several criteria must be taken into account. Among them:

• recommendations of the car manufacturer;
• mileage of a car;
• terms of Use;
• driving style;
• API ACEA fluid specifications and tolerances.

In order not to get into the technical jungle, you can use the selection of oil for the make of the car. We will not dwell on this. It is enough to know that there are a lot of services on the Internet on which you can make such a selection.

Motor to motor strife. All units differ in their structure and nuances of work. Therefore, first of all, you need to pay attention to the recommendations of the plant - the manufacturer knows best of all what oil to pour into the car. Well, for tolerances, if any, of course.

For example, the recommended oil for a car is 10w40. If you fill in 15w40, it will be more difficult for the pump to pump liquid in cold weather. If you change it to 0w20, the motor will start to work for wear, because too fluid grease is not able to provide good lubrication motor.

Mileage and condition of the motor

As you know, when a car crosses the mark of 60-70 thousand, it is recommended to switch from synthetics to semi-synthetics. It is caused by the decline performance characteristics motor. Therefore, in order to determine which oil is best for the motor, you need to take into account its condition.

With an increase in mileage, the requirements for the density of the lubricating fluid change for the engine. And it is recommended to use an oil with a higher high temperature viscosity index. In simple terms, you need to fill in the liquid thicker than before. In worn out motors, it is also better not to pour too much liquid oil- due to the increased gaps, the lubricating film will drain from the parts.

But, here is a double-edged sword. Too thick grease will kill the engine in cold weather. Therefore, a good engine oil for the winter should be a compromise solution.

If you listen to the experts, they advise:

• with a car mileage of more than 100 thousand, all-season use 5w40, and in winter 5w30 and 10w30;
• with a mileage of more than 250 thousand, all-weather use 5W50, and specifically for winter - 5w40 and 10w40.

But, again, even with high mileage, the engine can be very good condition, as well as being killed after 50 thousand. Therefore, the mileage should be considered only in conjunction with the general condition of the motor.

API, ACEA standards and approvals

Everything is simple here - in order to understand which oil to fill, you need to check the tolerance. If the liquid has it, then it is suitable for the car. If you do not know what a tolerance is, then I will explain. This is a special marking on the canister, which means that the oil has passed internal certification from the car manufacturer and is approved by them for use in motors.

As for the API and ACEA standards, it is not difficult here either. These standards determine the compatibility of the motor with the lubricant brand. So, by API (American standard):

1. Marking "C" - for a diesel engine.
2. Marking "S" - for gasoline engines.
3. "S \ C" is a universal liquid.

For example, the SL / CI-4 marking indicates a universal oil suitable for both diesel and gasoline engines. The second letters on the label speak of quality. The closer to the end of the alphabet, the later the specification was adopted - and therefore the liquid is better.

ACEA is a European standard. In it, everything is almost exactly the same. Only the letters are different:

• "A" - gasoline;
• "B" - diesel;
• "E" - trucks;
• "C" - universal class (analogue "S \ C")

Instead of the second letter, a number is indicated to decipher the specification. The larger it is, the better. For example, B5-2002 indicates a fluid for lubricating passenger diesel engines, and the specification was adopted in 2002.

So which oil is best for the winter? Naturally more fluid. Such a liquid will avoid oil starvation during a cold start and will not cause problems in severe frosts. At the same time, it is worth considering other criteria described in the article. Still from the right choice oil directly depends on the operation of the car.

That's all, leave your comments and read other blog articles.

In winter, when the air temperature is below freezing, starting the engine is much more difficult. especially on diesel vehicles, it requires increased stress of the working systems and the patience of the driver. In order to make it easier to turn the crankshaft, you need to clearly know what kind of oil to pour into the car engine for the winter.

First of all, when choosing a winter lubricant, you should refer to the manufacturer's recommendations. Each car is accompanied by an instruction manual, in which the manufacturer clearly indicates which oil to pour into this model in winter (which brand and with what parameters). If, for some reason, it is missing or the information in it is not relevant (for example, such brands are outdated and are no longer produced), the liquid will have to be selected based on the parameters and tolerances. If they are also outdated, and it is no longer possible to select a lubricant according to these criteria, then it is necessary to more carefully study the state of the chemical market for cars, since you can rely only on yourself and on your own knowledge. It is worth clarifying in advance that you should not buy oil based on the seller's advice or the reviews of friends. Unfortunately, an ordinary buyer cannot have confidence in the competence and honesty of traders, while a friend may have a completely different car, so what suits him may be the worst option for your "swallow".

Types of engine oil by chemical composition

Initially, only mineral motor oil was used for cars. The name "mineral" speaks for itself - it means that the liquid is made from natural ingredients (oil). But mineral motor oil is categorically not suitable for the winter, especially those places where the air temperature drops much below -10 degrees Celsius - it simply freezes in the engine.

Then a synthetic motor oil was created using the synthesis of molecules that provide more or less the same performance when changing operating temperatures.

There is also such a view as semi synthetic oil... This is a natural base with the addition of artificially created compounds.

Each type has its pros and cons. As mentioned above, a liquid with a mineral composition is not suitable for operation at low temperatures, but at the same time it cleans the engine from carbon deposits and deposits slowly and gradually, peeling off "debris" in small parts. Then, when replaced, it is simply displayed with testing.

Semi-synthetics are more resistant to temperature changes, but this oil is also not suitable for the engine for the winter, since the low temperature threshold is too high, if you look at the thermometer.

Synthetic fluid is most popular, as it is designed for different temperatures (depending on the classification), but does not lose its working properties when the engine is heated or cooled, roughly speaking, synthetics "adjust". But if earlier the engine used poor-quality or unsuitable lubricating "chemistry", and it is covered with hardened sediment and carbon deposits from the inside, then when switching to high-quality synthetics, a quick detachment of "debris" can occur, as a result of which the oil channels and the filter will be clogged. And after that you will have to send the engine for repair, which is not at all cheap. Therefore, if it is not known what was filled in earlier and how many thousands of kilometers traveled without replacement, then it is better to first fill the motor with cleaning fluid, and only then new oil, and replace several subsequent cycles more often than recommended by the manufacturer.

Viscosity

When choosing which oil to fill in for the winter, first of all, you need to pay attention to the viscosity - this is one of critical indicators performance characteristics of the lubricating fluid.

The bottom line is that the engine parts rub against each other at high speed during operation. There must be an oil film between them, which, on the one hand, will reduce the friction force, which means the heating and wear of parts, and on the other hand, will ensure tightness during friction (for example, in cylinders). If the engine oil is too thick in winter, that is, it has a high viscosity, then every movement will be given to the system with difficulty, requiring an increase in effort, and with strenuous operation of the engine, the return will be low. If the oil is too liquid, it will simply flow through the parts, without providing an interlayer between the pistons and the cylinder walls, that is, the metal will wear out and be depleted during friction.

Constantly changing. If the machine is stationary, the temperature will be equal to the temperature environment... When the engine warms up before driving, the temperature rises slowly. When driving, it depends on the effort of the motor, it can increase and decrease in the process. And then the question arises of which oil is better to use for the winter, if it thickens in a cold state, and becomes liquid when heated.

To provide comprehensive protection in cold weather at low temperatures, the oil must remain sufficiently liquid to facilitate easy starting of the engine and avoid oil starvation, and when increasing working temperature it must be thick enough to create an oily film.

by SAE

The American Society of Automotive Engineers has created a classification which is now used all over the world. We will talk about this further.

Winter oil

Previously, the question of which oil is better to use for the winter did not even arise before motorists. The answer was unequivocal - winter. By SAE classification it was denoted by the letter W after the numerical value (winter - "winter"). The package said: SAE 0W or SAE 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W. The number in front of the W told the buyer what the lowest temperature the oil could withstand without causing harm. power unit... Before the winter, the motorist must make sure that it is suitable for the weather conditions of his region, regardless of how much he rolled on the previous lubricant. Winter oil did not thicken at low temperatures, but became too thin if the air temperature rose.

Summer oil

According to the SAE classification, summer oil was simply designated by a number (5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40). It meant the upper temperature threshold at which the liquid can be used. The higher the air temperature in the summer in a given region, the more oil had to be bought in order for it to remain viscous enough in the heat.

Multigrade oil

Recently, lubricants such as summer or winter oil have disappeared into oblivion, as multigrade oil is widely used. It is much easier to use, there is no need to make its obligatory replacement before each new season, looking for oil with a different classification of the same brand as the previous one. Multigrade oil is identified by two numbers and a W between them. The first number speaks of the "winter" indicators of the liquid (it depends on which oil to fill in for the winter), and the second - about the "summer" ones. This universal grease, of course, has both upper and lower temperature thresholds, but everyone can choose exactly the oil that fits into the desired range. At the same time, in winter it will remain quite fluid, and in summer it will retain its viscosity.

Selection of oil according to SAE classification for a specific climate

• SAE 20W-40 - from -10 to +45;
• SAE 15W-40 - from -15 to +45;
• SAE 10W-40 - from -20 to +35;
• SAE 10W-30 - from -20 to +30;
• SAE 5W-40 - from -25 to +35;
• SAE 5W-30 - from -25 to +20;
• SAE 0W-40 - from -30 to +35;
• SAE 0W-30 - from -30 to +20.

As you can see from the above list, for residents of temperate latitudes it is excellent oil will do 5W40 in winter, as it can easily withstand low temperatures and will not leak when warming. It can be used fearlessly all year round.

API engine oil classification

The American Fuel Institute has created another classification that should be considered when choosing an oil for winter. As a rule, this indicator indicates the quality of the lubricant. Manufacturers are not required to check their product by API and place information about it on the label, but most often it is a low-quality liquid that does not go through this procedure. Since every motorist tries to fill in the best oil for the winter, it is worth looking for a lubricant with this indicator.

The API system has two basic designations. The letter S tells the buyer that this oil is for gasoline engines only, and the letter C tells the customer that the fluid can only be filled into a diesel engine. Sometimes on the packaging you can find a double designation that looks either like this - S ... / C ..., or like this - C ... / S ... In the first case, the oil is best suited for a gasoline car, but the manufacturer allows its use in diesel car, in the second case - vice versa.

Both the S classification and the C classification have additional parameters that are important when choosing which oil to pour for the winter.

For gasoline engines

• SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF are deprecated classes that are no longer used. This is the oil that was suitable for 1930-1989 engines. release.
• SG - oil for engines manufactured since 1989. Protects the engine from carbon deposits and corrosion, as well as from oxidation.
• SH - engine oil since 1994. Improved protection against carbon deposits, corrosion and oxidation, reduces wear on parts. Suitable if SG or lower is recommended.
• SJ - oil for engines under 1996. It has all the previous qualities, improved anti-nag complex, more accurate work in cold weather. Suitable if SH grade or lower is recommended.
• SL - oil for multivalve and turbocharged engines manufactured since 2000. Increased quality control, suitable for motors recommended for SJ class and below.
• SM - oil for modern motors(since 2004). Improved protection against premature wear and carbon build-up. This engine oil is suitable for all engines for which a lower grade is recommended. Today it is the best engine oil for the winter.

For diesel engines

• CA, CB, CC, CD, CE are deprecated classes.
• CF - for engines from 1990 with indirect injection. Contains additives to reduce carbon deposits, corrosion, oxidation and wear. It can be used with the recommended CD class.
• CG - for engines after 1995, which are subject to increased loads. Car oil prevents the accumulation of carbon and soot, oxidation and foam formation.
• CH - engine oil after 1998. It possesses all of the above qualities, but additionally meets the exhaust gas toxicity standards.
• CI - class adopted in 2002. The oil meets all environmental standards, has a cleaning additive. Reduces the amount of soot and carbon deposits, has increased fluidity. The best oil in the engine for the winter for new diesel engines.

The number 2 or 4 after the letter value indicates which engine - two-stroke or four-stroke - the lubricant is suitable for.

ACEA engine oil classification

ACEA is an analogue of API, only European. The label, as a rule, indicates information about compliance with one of these classifications, but you can also find both.

• The letter G indicates that the oil is suitable for gasoline engine, and numbers from 1 to 5 indicate its quality.
• The letters PD indicate that the oil is suitable for diesel engines passenger cars, numbers 1 and 2 speak of quality.
• The letter D with numbers from 1 to 5 means that the lubricant is designed for diesel engines of trucks.

What to do before winter

Before thinking about what kind of oil to fill for the winter, you need to make sure that the car is ready for increased loads and low temperatures. This is especially true for the owners of diesel cars, who often have to leave their "swallow" in the parking lot or near the house and run to a public transport stop.

Most importantly and most importantly, the battery and starter must be in good working order! If there are minimal problems with the battery in the fall, then in the winter they will appear before you in an increased size. After checking these components, you can move on to thinking about what kind of oil to pour in winter, but this applies not only to the oil in the engine, but also to the transmission fluid, lubricant in the axle and the hydraulic booster (if present). They also change to winter antifreeze options and In the first case - so that the water does not freeze in the system, and in the second - to ensure good visibility while driving.

Only after deciding which oil is better to pour into your engine in winter, it is worth going to storm stores with auto chemicals. Happy road!

Many people are familiar with this picture: a frosty morning and two motorists make their four wheeled "friends". One, the owner of a well-deserved "pensioner" started, as they say, "with half a kick", and his neighbor in a brand new car scares those around him with the ineffectual howl of the starter up to full discharge battery.

How so? The car is new, the manufacturer guaranteed a confident start even at lower temperatures! And the thing, in most cases, is in the engine oil filled in for the winter. Not in the vehicle itself.

The main parameters that you should pay attention to when choosing an engine oil for winter

When operating a car in winter, a motorist, when choosing an engine oil, should pay special attention to three of them, which are directly responsible for starting and trouble-free operation of the engine in Russian winter conditions.

Viscosity

The main parameter is viscosity. Everyone, without exception, has heard about him. But hearing this is one thing, but understanding what it is is quite another. In a nutshell, viscosity is the ability of an oil to maintain its properties within a certain temperature range. Simply put, to lubricate, to reduce the force of friction between parts, is equally good, both at minus twenty and at positive temperatures. And if it's quite simple - do not freeze or boil.

Video - which engine oil is the best:

It is the viscosity index that the manufacturer indicates when labeling its products, in SAE system... For example, let's take one of the most common all-season SAE oils 5W40, where the number five is responsible for the viscosity at negative values, and 40 at positive values.

It should be remembered that this is exactly a "number", and not an indicator of the temperature regime!

Understeer and pumpability

But there are two more parameters that directly depend on the viscosity, but are no less important when choosing an engine oil for winter. Namely: understeer and pumpability. But the manufacturer does not directly spread about this. Let's talk about them in more detail, a little later.

Table of oils for cars by temperature

In the meantime, let's see which SAE markings correspond to different temperature conditions.

Remember we asked you not to confuse the number of marking with the temperature of the environment at which the oil is allowed to be used? The table below clearly shows which of the values ​​corresponds to a certain threshold.

The lower the value of the first marking number, the higher the possibility of using the car in winter.

The first four oils are purely winter oils; their use in summer is prohibited. They are followed by four of their comrades, but already in the neighboring summer "workshop". Both the first and second groups in our time are used only by very meticulous motorists.

Most people prefer what is known as multigrade engine oil. And as you can see, some of them are able to seriously compete with their "pure" brethren. And don’t tell me - it’s convenient. Therefore, in the future, we will focus on multigrade oils.

Video - what kind of engine oil to fill in the engine:

So what is the best engine oil for pouring in winter? The answer to this question is very easy to find in the owner's manual for the car. There the manufacturer answers it quite categorically. But there are two problems here. The first is mentality. Almost any resident of our country will look at the instructions only when something breaks. The second - there is simply no such book at hand.

Therefore, we will figure it out ourselves and it's time to remember the parameters mentioned above: oversteer and pumpability. The essence is clear from the names themselves. Pumpability - the ability of oil to pass through the engine system under the influence of the oil pump, and cranking, respectively, is responsible for cold start at low ambient temperatures.

But how do they relate to viscosity? The table will help us.

And what can be seen from it? The above parameters, superimposed on the temperature scale, differ significantly from the viscosity values.

Consider oil labeled 5W40. The minimum pumpability is minus thirty-five degrees, the maximum is plus forty. Oversteer - minus twenty-seven. And what do we have in the viscosity table? Operation at minus thirty is allowed. Here it is the first underwater pebble. Look, only oil with the number zero has the best performance in these indicators.

Therefore, a preliminary summary can be drawn.

Which oil is better than 5W30 or 5W40 in winter?

For most regions Russian Federation there is absolutely no point in purchasing oils with a lower viscosity limit of less than 5. The ideal option is a pair of 5W30 and 5W40.

Well, you say, they sang "war songs" here, and now we have to choose one of the two? Quite right, but we propose to do it together by a simple comparison of the discussed parameters.

Oil 5W30, according to the parameters declared by the manufacturer for the winter period of operation, surpasses its "fortieth" competitor 5W40!

But we remember that both of these products are like twins in terms of pumping and cranking parameters. And which one to choose?

It sounds a little paradoxical, but it happens quite often in life. When choosing engine oil for the winter, you should pay attention to the summer characteristics. Our winter is long, but not endless, and if you are not planning to change your oil in the spring, you should think about the upcoming warm days. Agree, autumn, winter, but remember the sun, the sea, rest ...

And here we see that SAE 5W40 is confidently in the lead both in terms of viscosity (work at +30) and maximum pumpability (the indicator reaches +40). The winner is determined: out of this pair of oils (5v30 or 5v40), it is better to use 5W40, if you will not change the oil for the summer.

Diesel and gasoline powertrain

"How - how," the skeptic will say, "I have a diesel car, everything is different with me." And no one will argue with him. Oil for diesel and gasoline engines is, indeed, qualitatively different. This is due to different principles of operation of power units and the type of fuel.

Diesel fuel, even if it is of high quality, due to its chemical composition gives more carbon deposits and soot, which, in addition to the main functions, the engine oil fights against. Therefore, diesel oils contain more detergent additives. Besides diesel oils have a higher base number, which allows you to reduce the harmful effects of the acidic environment inherent in the combustion of solarium.

American and European automakers have developed two additional standards for separating oils into gasoline and diesel: API and ACEA respectively.

In the first case, the letter S - indicates oil for a gasoline engine, C - for a diesel one. In the second: A - gasoline, B - diesel.

Also, these standards divide oils by engine types, depending on the timing of production and purpose (two-stroke, four-stroke, cars, trucks, and so on). This classification is indicated by the second letter of the marking.

For clarity, the tables are below:

for gasoline engines

for diesel engines

Undoubtedly, these indicators should be taken into account, but they in no way supersede the SAE standard. The viscosity grade and other related parameters are the same for both diesel and gasoline oils.

In any case, there will be an SAE indicator on the label of each oil, but API or ACEA is already an additional marking, and even then not always.

And if we talk about the type of oil for diesel operation in winter, experts advise using the oil intended for diesel engines. The fact is that at present, manufacturers have released many universal oils suitable for both types power plants by combining almost incompatible.

The main thing here is to be careful. If the canister has an API designation with the first letter S (SJ / CF) - this product is priority for gasoline engines, letter C (CF / SJ) - diesel priority.

But versatility is not always good and convenient. According to the results of the studies carried out, such oils are very much dependent on the quality of the fuel used: the lower it is, the shorter the service life of the oil and, accordingly, its useful properties... We will not talk about the quality of fuel in our country, this is superfluous.

Climatic conditions in different regions

An equally important factor when choosing a motor oil is the region of residence, its climatic conditions. All of the above applies to the temperate climatic zone of the country: it is hot in summer, in winter it does not get a tooth on a tooth.

But if you live in the south, where the snow does not always fall in winter, it is worth considering oils that are oriented more towards warm and hot weather.

And what about the places where the polar bears are? From the surveys conducted, both motorists and professionals operating vehicles in the regions of the Far North, we came to the conclusion that the overwhelming majority use SAE 5W40.

The lower threshold of operation is somewhat conditional, and you will not be able to start the engine at minus forty without installing heating systems with absolutely any oil, so why "fence a vegetable garden"?

Particularly attentive and picky readers may notice why at the very beginning they made a reservation “so-called all-season oils”. But we didn't make a reservation. To make it clear what exactly we had in mind, we will give a conversation between two motorists who start their cars in the morning.

One is already humming, warming up, the second, not in any. The frustrated owner asks the "lucky": "What kind of oil are you pouring?" The answer is fresh. A joke, of course, but as you know, every joke contains only a fraction of a joke.

The word all-season has already played a cruel joke with many motorists. The fact is that if the oil change was made in the spring, by the winter in the engine crankcase it is by no means the same product that you took off the shelf in the store.

It is difficult to say in which percentages these very properties are reduced for every thousand, but if this were not so, there would be no need to change it. Right?

Therefore, it is preferable to change the oil in the winter. Such a simple rule allows you to use all the declared characteristics to the fullest. And go into the summer with a still quite suitable oil for mild operating conditions.

As you know, a miser pays twice. Therefore, several simple tips associated with the replacement of oils. In order not to say in the service or other "knowledgeable" people, take your time and do not skimp, but use flushing oils.

They are not expensive, but they can significantly extend the operational properties of fresh oil. And, of course, we install a new one. oil filter... Iron rule: change the oil, change the filter! Expensive? How much does an engine repair cost? That's just it.

Conclusion

In conclusion, you can add, in which region you would not live and which type of oil did not find the most suitable, preparing for the winter is a responsible business. Do not be lazy, do THAT.

See what is in the battery banks after the summer heat, and what is the condition of the transmission and clutch. The smallest detail can be a decisive factor even at not very low temperatures.

It's a shame to walk or shake and huddle in public transport when your favorite car remained at the doorstep of the house, refusing to start.

Good luck on the road!

Video - which oil is better to fill in in winter (freezing 5W30, 5W40):

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Comments on the article:

Konstantin

I live on the border with Kazakhstan. Climate and temperature regime+30 in summer, -40 in winter. Since 1990 at the wheel. Now the owner of Toyota RAV 4. This is my fifth car. The first years tried everything famous brands... Now I'm sure that only 10w40 synthetics should be cast.

Yuri Rodimenkov

I have a car Hyundai getz release of 2007. Since the beginning of operation, I have been using a synthetic motor Mobil oil 1 5W-40. I am very pleased with the oil. The heated engine runs almost silently and without vibration. In cold weather, the car starts up without problems. There was not a single case of failure when starting the engine in winter. From replacement to replacement, the oil level remains within the permissible norm, never had to be topped up. I recommend this brand of oil to everyone.

novel

In winter, oil can turn to stone after prolonged storage due to the low temperatures and high viscosity of the oil. It is necessary to abandon mineral water and use better semisynthetics with 5W parameters. Also, do not forget to depress the clutch pedal before starting the engine.

Sergey

It is often recommended to use 5W-30 oil for new engines, and 5W-40 for older ones. Say, the gaps are increased, the oil must be thicker. But besides the density, you need to pay attention to the design of the engine: if the oil channels are designed for a more liquid oil, then with a viscosity of 40 it may not be pumped. Therefore, in winter, of course, it is necessary to use 0w- and 5W- oils, but in summer, be more careful about the second figure. Perhaps a 10W-30 oil would be more optimal. Moreover, semi-synthetics, due to its greater stability, detergent properties, and less tendency to form slags and deposits. For the winter, you can pour both semisynthetics and synthetics. Here it is already necessary to look at the tests of specific oils for frost resistance. It so happens that the semisynthetics of one company are more fluid in the cold than synthetics of another.

Martin

Both in winter and summer I use Top Tec 4100 5W-40 moth liquidation oil, it starts up at -25 without any questions, there is no need for a long warm-up, 2-3 minutes and went slowly, on the way it warms up completely. And in the summer at +28 he feels calm in traffic jams. Good oil.

Koptev

Yes, what is one of the big advantages of Liquid Moli oil is that in reality the car in cold weather began to start without problems. But this is only one of the advantages, firstly, the car picks up speed faster, the engine stopped eating oil, fuel consumption has decreased. It is clear that the oil is of high quality and the best for my car.

Arkady

Koptev will support the review, in fact, with LIQUI MOLI oil, the car even began to drive differently, the engine purrs like a cat, all sorts of grunts are gone. I regret that I did not fill this oil earlier.

Casimir

Regarding the liquidation of the moth, at first I was buying it, the price was of course biting, but then I got tired of the problems with the dviglom. As a result, now I fill in the liquidation of the moth, there are no problems at all, the car flies, the engine purrs.

Sergey

Naturally, any winter differs in viscosity, for this there is a marking of temperatures of 30-40 grams. Here you can choose yourself depending on the place of travel in the regions. It's simple - why load the engine and battery by oil at 40, if the temperature throughout the season will not exceed 30 grams. Also, in the reverse order, the oil increases the viscosity by 30 at temperatures above. Well, the manufacturer is already from experience.

Nikita

I pour Top Tec 4200 5W-30 LM, everything is fine, we have such winters now you will not understand what, I call Eurozim that way)

Ivanovich

I know for sure that the main thing is a timely oil change. I am also sure that when changing the oil you need to use flushing oil, the procedure really does not take much time, and the effect is noticeable. And while still living in the central part of Russia, for domestic car, I only use semi-synthetic oils winter summer. Together with the oil change, I must change the filter. Everything.

Igor

You just have to ride good oil, then flushing will not be needed. What year have I been driving Livi Moth, there was never a need to rinse. Unless you change the brand of oil, of course.

Oleg

In winter, we all know that starting the engine can be problematic. This largely depends on the oil in the engine.
I try to always adhere to the instructions in the machine's service book.
Now there are a huge amount of oils and their choice is not always easy. I never use the advice of my acquaintances, let alone sellers.
Three types of oils are mainly used: mineral, synthetic and semi-synthetic. I never pour mineral water in winter, it freezes already at -10 degrees. But in the spring, I must change the filled oil for mineral water. Mineral water better than other oils cleans engine parts from carbon deposits, all this rubbish is drained in the fall along with mining.
For the engine, I use only semi-synthetics in winter, because if you use synthetics, then if there is carbon deposits in the engine, then its delamination will quickly clog the oil filter and oil supply channels. This can lead to expensive repairs engine. You also have to take into account that our synthetics are not German Liqui moly and a surrogate.

Dmitriy

In winter, I fill my Chevy Niva with only synthetics Lukoil-Lux 5W-40, 3 winters, oil from replacement to replacement, normal flight.

Vladimir

If you don't want to take risks and experiment, then pour what your manufacturer recommends. The same Honda and Toyota have their own oils and they are very good.
I recently poured Mobil-1 5w 50 and I can safely recommend it. It behaves perfectly in summer and winter. I have never had any problems. Tried another 5w 40 - I liked it too.

Kirill

Are there drivers who change their engine oil for the season like tires? I use 5w-40 because it is recommended by the manufacturer itself, moreover, I fill in oil that goes under the Nissan KE90090042R brand, because I have a car of this brand. For ten years now I have been pouring it, there are no problems with cold starting even in severe frosts, more, in this sense, the battery is worried.

Kostya

I know at least 2 people who change the oil every 5-7 thousand with a filter. But they love their cars very much and they have money.

I myself usually change when the car skated at least 10-15 thousand and by the way the oil even after 15 thousand is clean. I have no special operating conditions, I don’t carry loads, but simply use it in the “home-work-purchase” format.

As for what to cast, I use 5w 40 for myself, and I think the ideal is LIQUI MOLY Synthoil High Tech. If you want to buy something cheaper, then I advise you to pay attention to SHELL Helix Ultra. It is inexpensive, and the oil is really good, there are no problems with it.

Vladimir

Personally, I usually change the oil in the fall, that is, closer to winter. I use only synthetic oil and I think that in winter you shouldn't even fill in semi-synthetics, and even more so mineral water. Although it depends on the weather conditions. We have colds down to minus 40. Well, of course, the information is very interesting, especially for beginners. Moreover, there is still a video with full instructions... detailed information

Arkady

I'm just one of those people who love their car and take care of it. I change the oil every 8-10 thousand runs, and although the operating conditions are not the most difficult, I feel that the car says thank you to me.

Lil a lot different oils, from the simplest to the top ones, and now settled on the MOBIL 1 ESP Formula 5W-30 variant. I do not advise you to drive it for a long time, it will not last 15-20 thousand, as many people like to drive. Here 10 is the maximum. But it has a huge plus, in winter the car starts up without problems at any temperature, and we often have -28 and below. And if on other oils I had a Honda start up with difficulty (even on the one recommended by the manufacturer itself), then on this the engine seized immediately.

I can also recommend the Motul 8100 X-clean FE 5W30. The oil is really good, but expensive. If you take it in the long term, then Mobile is at least a little worse, but cheaper, and if you change it a little more often, it turns out to be profitable.

In general, I will say the following. You can pour even the cheapest oil, a more or less normal manufacturer, just change it more often, do not wait for 12-14 thousand, change after 8, it is inexpensive, but you can change the filter every other time.

Love the car and it will always reciprocate you)).

Igor Ch.

My oil changes during scheduled maintenance. Regardless of the season, every 15,000 km. The service fills in what is indicated in the instructions - 5w40. Otherwise, it will fly off the guarantee. Naturally, I do everything with the officials. I don’t top up in between, but just in case I always carry a liter canister with me. So far, this need has not arisen. But I roll no more than 85,000 km, while still under warranty, then I change the car. Since 2010 I only go to Hyundai.

Michael

The correct answer is any, but not the cheapest. Pour any 5w30 and I assure you, for 10 thousand run you will not see any difference between expensive and cheap. At first, too, I took the top ones, but what's the point? We do not have harsh operating conditions, and if you do not live in the far north, then the car will start without problems. We rarely have below minus 15 in winter. The car, even in the simplest oil, starts up with a kick.

The last one I tried was the ZIC X7 LS 5W-30. Very cheap and a good option... Departure 9500 km and it was generally clean when it was replaced, but it costs 4 liters about 1600 rubles, which I think is generally inexpensive.

Zakhar

I don’t understand people who buy a car and then start saving on it. If you are not able to service normally, be ready for expensive repairs - this rule always works.

I disagree with many here and I think that the ideal for winter is 0W30 or 10W40. This is due to the fact that it has a lower viscosity and in cold weather it will be much easier to pump it, which means that the chances of starting the car increase many times over.

We have severe winters and often -30 and even lower. Through trial and error, I found a good oil for myself - this is Ravenol Arctic Low SAPS ALS SAE 0W-30. The car can be easily started even at -35. It is perfectly pumped through the system and, of course, there are difficulties with starting, but it starts the first time, which I have not observed with another oil. So there is a difference in expensive and cheap oil for sure, it all depends on the region where the car is used.

If the winter is very mild, then I agree, then it makes no difference at all what to fill in the engine, especially if you keep the replacement intervals. I change every 9-11 thousand mileage and be sure to change all filters, including oil, cabin and air filters.

Also, do not forget to take a little oil with you for topping up and check its level, you can not always rely on electronics.

Stanislav

To facilitate starting the engine at low temperatures, on cars with mechanical box gears, there is such a technique as pressing the clutch pedal when starting the engine, so that input shaft and the gears did not rotate in the thickened transmission oil... I use engine oil with a viscosity of 5W40, as recommended by the manufacturer himself.

Anatoly

The main thing is to maintain the required viscosity, and then buy something for which there is enough money. This is the best rule of thumb.
If you bought a cheap one, then change it after 10 thousand. If the oil is expensive and of high quality and you have a car without load, then 20 will pass normally.
I have a different attitude to the car. I have not driven them for more than 4-5 years, and during this time nothing will happen to the engine for sure.
I have not seen statistics anywhere, if you change after 7-8 thousand, and not after 20, then the engine passes not 300 thousand, but a million.
In the cars that come to us from America, it seems that they don't even change the oil every 100 thousand, and nothing, the cars drive.

If you need a cheap one - try GENERAL MOTORS Dexos2 Longlife 5W30. Just change it thousands after 10 for sure.

Maksim

By the way, many have completely forgotten that the engines are also different, or rather even their wear.
It's one thing to pour oil into new engine, and quite another - worn out. My car has passed almost 250 thousand and I know what I'm talking about. Here it is definitely necessary to change the oil more often, and sometimes I change it after 8-9 thousand and pour it special, which is intended for them. Basically fits very well Shell helix HX7. And it is also inexpensive.
If you have our old VAZ, then there is no point in pouring expensive oils, they will not be any better. Calmly pour Lukoil Lux 10W40 and you will not know grief, it generally costs less than a thousand rubles for 4 liters.

Very important the right oil pick up and if your car drives it normally, there is no point in trying something expensive. You can even consult the oil vendors, they are usually adequate. If the car high mileage, then normal oil perfectly protects the engine from wear and does not have to make capital for a long time.

Previously, I don’t remember such a distinction at all, but now just say that you need oil for a car with high mileage... Well, I wrote a couple of quite successful options here.

If you change the oil normally, the engine will definitely be grateful to you.

About 30 years ago, motor oils were really divided into summer and winter. The first ones were most often made in the countries of the former USSR, on old equipment, on the basis of cheap-to-produce mineral oils. High-quality winter lubricant poured into Russia from abroad after the opening of "free trade". What is happening on the auto chemistry market now?

It's not a secret for anyone that if you pour the first oil that comes across or thoughtlessly follow the advice of a neighbor, then you can cause serious damage to the motor. Therefore, the choice must be taken responsibly. Summer oils used in warm weather are much less demanding. But in winter, in severe frosts, the engine is the most picky about the quality of the lubricant.

When starting, oil should be pumped through the engine. The sooner this happens, the better - after all, for some time the motor has to run almost dry. And when metal inside the engine rubs against metal, nothing good can be expected. Therefore, the lower the viscosity of the grease during cold start, the better. But here it is important to maintain a balance, since too thick engine oil will be harder to spread over all the details. However, first things first.

"Mineralka"vs"synthetics"

The main properties of a motor oil depend on its base. This is the base to which a special additive package is also added. The specified base oil can be mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic.

Mineral(made directly from petroleum) is considered the most affordable option at a price, however, the period of preservation of useful properties during operation, as well as a number of other characteristics, is at the lowest level. In particular, this type of lubricant turns into "jelly" in the cold, so it is categorically unsuitable for the winter. From the pros: mineral oil cleans the engine from carbon deposits and sediments slowly and gradually, peeling off "debris" in small parts. Then, when replaced, it is simply displayed with testing.

Following mineral motor oils to the market automotive chemistry more perfect came - synthetic based on refined petroleum products and improved by adding various kinds of additives. Synthetics are designed for different temperatures and do not lose their working properties when the engine is heated or cooled. But if earlier poor-quality or unsuitable lubricating chemicals were used in the engine, and it is covered with hardened sediment and carbon deposits from the inside, then when switching to high-quality synthetics, a quick detachment of "debris" can occur, as a result of which the oil channels and the filter will be clogged. And after that, in general, you will have to give the engine for repair ... Therefore, if you do not know what was poured earlier and how many thousand kilometers you traveled without replacement, then it is better to first fill the motor with a cleaning fluid, and only then new oil, and replace several subsequent cycles more often. than recommended by the manufacturer.

The third type of oils - semi-synthetic... They are an intermediate link between the available "mineral water" and expensive "synthetics". This is a natural base with the addition of artificially created compounds. Semi-synthetics are more resistant to temperature changes, but this oil is also not suitable for the engine for the winter, since the low temperature threshold is too high, if you look at the thermometer.

Summervswinter

So, we have decided on the types of oils, now let's talk about an equally important characteristic - viscosity. When the engine is running, its internal components rub against each other at a tremendous speed, which affects their heating and wear. To prevent this from happening, it is important to have a special protective layer in the form of an oil mixture. It also acts as a sealant in the cylinders. Thick oil has a higher viscosity, it will create additional resistance to parts when driving, increasing the load on the engine. And enough liquid will simply drain, increasing the friction of parts and wearing out the metal.

Taking into account the fact that any oil thickens at negative temperatures and thins when heated, the American Society of Automotive Engineers has divided all oils by viscosity into summer and winter. According to the SAE classification, summer engine oil indicated simply by the number (5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60). The indicated value represents the viscosity. The higher the number, the more viscous the summer oil is. Accordingly, the higher the air temperature in summer in a given region, the higher the rate it was necessary to buy oil in order for it to remain viscous enough in the heat.

To the group winter lubricants it is customary to classify products according to SAE from 0W to 20W. The letter W is an abbreviation for the English word winter - winter. And the figure, as well as with summer oils, indicates their viscosity, and tells the buyer what the lowest temperature the oil can withstand without harming the power unit (20W - not lower than -10 ° C, the most frost-resistant 0W - not lower -30 ° C).

Today, the clear division between summer and winter oil has faded into the background. In other words, there is no need to change the lubricant for the warm or cold season. This became possible thanks to the so-called multigrade engine oil... As a result, individual products only for summer or for winter are now practically not found on the free market. Multigrade oil has the SAE 0W-30 type designation, being a kind of symbiosis of summer and winter oil designations. In this designation, there are two numbers that determine the viscosity. The first number indicates the viscosity at low temperatures, and the second indicates the viscosity at high temperatures.

How to choose the best engine oil

First of all, when choosing an engine oil for a car, you should listen to manufacturer's recommendations... You can find information on the permitted oil in the service book, which is provided with each machine. In it, the automaker sets which oil to pour in winter and summer in this model car.

If the service book is missing for some reason, or the information in it is not up-to-date (for example, such brands are outdated and no longer produced), the fluid will have to be selected based on the parameters of the car and tolerances. You should not rely on the advice of friends and the seller in the store. One cannot be sure of the professionalism of a shop assistant. And your friend might have another car. Oil is good for his car, but for yours it can be fatal.

To independently determine which oil is best suited for your particular car model, you need to take into account engine condition and mileage... With an increase in mileage, the requirements for the density of the lubricating fluid change for the engine. And it is recommended to use an oil with a higher high temperature viscosity index. In other words, it is better not to pour too liquid oil into worn out motors - due to the increased gaps, the lubricating film will drain from the parts. In addition, when the car crosses the mark of 60-70 thousand, it is recommended to switch from synthetics to semi-synthetics. This is due to a decrease in the performance of the motor.

One more important characteristic in the selection of the lubricant is admittance... This is a special marking on the canister, which means that the oil has passed internal certification from the car manufacturer and is approved by them for use in motors. It is worth noting that API and ACEA certifications are not required to pass before the material enters store shelves, but usually high-quality lubricants always pass at least one of them, which makes them different from the rest.

According to the American standard (API), oils marked "C" are suitable for diesel engines, those marked "S" are suitable for gasoline engines, and "S / C" is a universal fluid. The second letters on the label speak of quality. The closer to the end of the alphabet, the later the specification was adopted, and therefore the liquid is better. The ideal option is SM or CI classes.

ACEA is an analogue of API, only European. In it, everything is almost exactly the same. Only the letters are different: "A" - gasoline; "B" - diesel; "C" - universal class; "E" - oils for trucks. Instead of the second letter to decipher the specification, a number is indicated. The larger it is, the later it is adopted, and therefore the better.

Finding the right engine oil is a daunting task. It must be approached as carefully and carefully as possible. It is important to remember that it is better to choose longer than to change later. lubricant or to repair the machine, because, working on poor-quality or unsuitable material, it will quickly fail.