How to lubricate the positive terminal. There is a contact: is it necessary to lubricate the battery terminals, and how to do it
The habit of lubricating the terminals of batteries from oxidation was inherited from our grandparents.
Let's try to figure out how effective this measure of protection is whether it is worth applying it on modern car batteries at all.
Why the battery terminals are oxidized
It is not entirely true to call the process of formation of an extraneous flying and other manifestations of the destruction of the surface and contacts of the battery terminals purely oxidation. In general, this is a combination of several chemical processes. We define the main.
Natural oxidation
All substances in the air, where many oxygen, come into the oxidation process, or oxidation. Lead, namely from it the battery terminals are made, from this point of view, it is not very good to oxidation, there are more "weak" metals, take the same copper.
However, the non-oxidized lead (brilliant) we can only observe during the stripping of the battery contacts. After a few minutes, she starts to darken, that is, oxidize.
In the natural oxidation of the lead, there is nothing terrible, the lead oxide film is very thin, it is easy to destroy, slightly stirring the terminal. In addition, to allow 100% protection against oxygen is almost impossible, except by placing the battery in the barocamera. Even thick lubricants, like Tosol and solidol, paste oxygen particles.
Acid destruction
This kind chemical reaction leads to the formation of a "snowy" white plaque on the terminals of the battery. In addition to not quite aesthetic species, the plaque makes an additional transitional resistance at the point of contact, leads to the destruction of the terminals, may be the cause of leaks.
Where does the acid come from? In most cases from the battery. Served batteries have technological holes for filling electrolyte and control its level.
Video - What to do if the battery terminals are oxidized:
Almost all car batteries are equipped with a gas feed system. If the data zones are notchive (the gas trap is always, if the gas feeding tube is not connected to it), during operation, the electrolyte vapor will be released.
This is especially manifested in the warm season, although under the hood of the car it comes even in winter after twenty minutes of movement.
Even more terrible in terms of emissions of acid overheating rechargeable battery, especially boiling. This is possible in the following cases:
- destruction of plates of battery elements;
- short circuit of banks of the battery;
- wrong (reload);
- lack of natural cooling AKB in the warm season.
Appearing white flag Battery terminals represents lead chloride. This is a rather aggressive environment, especially for electrical connections. If you do not delete it in time, it "will eat" contact for a couple of months, and in such a way that it may not be subject to restoration.
Salt destruction
Russian roads still sprinkle sodium and potassium salts in winter. The composition of modern funds from icing is an industrial mystery, at least for car enthusiasts.
But all the mixtures in the composition with water vapors and impurities of other substances located on the road, ultimately, envelop all parts of the car, including the contacts of the battery.
Salt plus water is an excellent electrolyte, and where there is electrolyte, metals and electrical stress, there is an electrolysis process. He slowly destroys metal parts.
It is not possible to destroy the massive battery terminal with electrolysis, but it is possible to make a change in the contact zone.
Cleaning as a method of struggle
The easiest and most reliable method is timely removal of the plaque, cleaning the battery terminals.
Technical Council: Whatever you facilitates battery terminals, no less often than once every six months (better at the borders of the winter and summer seasons), clean the terminals mechanically.
It will save you from problems with the start of the engine, leakage processes and the heating of contacts. In order to cleanse them, you need to unscrew the crimp bolts, it is better to completely disconnect the terminals. Then moisten their alcohol-containing liquid and wipe dry.
If there is no one, you can use a solvent, diluted with water. So more fireproof, besides, the aggressiveness of the solvent is reduced.
To remove with the terminals, possible residues of the appeared acid, it is necessary to use a soda solution (a tablespoon of soda on a glass of water). If the acid really came into contact with the metal, in the process of treatment with a sponge moistened in solution, small bubbles will appear. After washing with a soda solution, it is necessary to wipe the terminals with a wet cloth.
In no case should not be used WD to clean. In addition to oil, they contain conductive aggressive cleaning agents of an unknown composition for the consumer of the composition. For processing electrical contacts WD-products are extremely undesirable.
Also cannot be used to process electrical contacts acetone, it eats even metals.
Next, cleaning is carried out with shallow sandwich, it is possible on a paper basis. The preliminary processing of highly polluted terminals can be made by a metal brush. There are special brushes for sale for such work.
Video - How to Clean the Battery Terminals:
The ideal result of work is a brilliant surface, not necessarily perfectly smooth. Lead soft material, so at the time of the crimping terminals contacts the maximum contact will receive.
After carrying out mechanical work on cleaning, a natural question arises: how to maintain the ideal state of contacts in the period between regulatory work? The answer is simple: to protect with the help of various terminals from aggressive substances.
For this, various lubricants and other materials are used.
How to lubric battery terminals from oxidation
Litol, Solidol
Solid lubricants were published as basic materials to protect against aggressive chemical impact: Litol, solidol, fatty lubrication.
To protect the battery terminals, mainly solidol or lithol was used. These are drive-cutting lubricants.
As a result of the processes of temperature expansion of contacts and mechanical compounds, these lubricants gradually penetrate into the cross-contact zone. Over time, it penetrates almost all internal cavities of the contact area.
In addition, at large temperature differences, as well as in the process of natural wear, specifications Litola and Solidola are changing: they solidify. As a result, it is simultaneously possible a disruption of electrical contact.
Silicone Grease
Great lubricant in all respects for processing electrical connections. But only when it is purchased, you should pay attention to it to be without conductive additives (manufacturers usually warn on the bottle).
Lubricant is characterized by the fact that it does not just delay the aggressive media, she repels them. It's like a fur coat that pushes the cold.
For processing battery terminals, lubricant is suitable only for complex use with other materials. It is applied to the treated clean surfaces, then begin to mechanically connect the parts.
The main lack of lubricant in terms of processing batteries terminals - fluidity. Over time, silicone grease leaves contact.
If you use silicone lubricant, it is necessary to regularly produce it injecting, then the lubricant does not fall into place from the check-in zone. A little troublesome.
Graphite lubricant
Some motorists used to handle contacts AKB graphite lubricant, justifying its use by conductive properties. However, this lubricant has a high resistivity and in the absence of metal electrical contact terminals, having skipping a high current through itself, can lead to heating and even ignition.
Apply graphite lubricant for processing drive terminals it is impossible!!!
Special means
Now there are many funds specifically designed to handle the terminals of automotive batteries. We will not describe the benefits of using concrete brands, manufacturers with this themselves do well.
Video - what can lubricate the battery terminals so that they do not oxidize (MS-1710 tool):
On tubes of these processing tools, there are instructions for their use. Of course, such funds are better than the Dedovsky solidol, although they are also based on an oil medium, as a rule, vaseline oil.
Very comfortable lubricants in the form of spray.
The process of applying protective funds for contacts AKB
Deciding with the material for the protective coating, proceed to applying it. To do this, first produce mechanical cleaning (see above).
After the terminals are cleaned, it is better to pre-process the contact zones with silicone lubrication.
Which is better? Here, the opinions of auto electricians diverge. In favor of the first, the fact that under the terminal in any case has air cavities, if the lubricant will fall into these places, it will only be better.
However, if you do frequent disconnection of the terminals, for example, to recharge the battery, it is better for the lubrication terminals not to apply.
When using branded lubricants, the instruction will indicate how to apply them.
It is necessary to clearly know what to lubricate the battery terminals and how often it is necessary to do it to avoid many problems. Carelessness in this issue will quickly lead you to the need to start "from the pusher", and the battery will last for a short time. But to restore it is a cost, not to mention.
How to lubricate the battery terminals - the item of hot disputes between motorists. And disputes do not subside for many years. There are fans of new industrial developments, there are supporters of proven methods. Consider the arguments and those and others.
Prevention - our all
If the battery terminals on your car are constantly covered by a raid, then it is necessary to not just clean the terminals, but to find out why this happens.
There are not so many reasons, and all of them are removed:
- bad, weak contact between the battery and the wire tip. Between them, a gap was formed through which the electrolyte pairs penetrate - here's the source of oxidation. Seat damage - and you can forget for a long time about problems with terminals;
- on the terminal itself, the coating is shred or scratched. Will have to change it;
- the output of the battery is notometric, the electrolyte is inserted from it and corps the surface of the contact node. Again - we seal!;
- switch generator. There will have to find out the reason for this phenomenon. Very often his cant causes it, but in each case it is necessary to understand separately;
- "Lost" mass on the engine. We restore - and get rid of problems with terminals.
Preliminary processing
Before losing terminals, you need to process the battery from the already formed oxides and accumulated dust. You can use in conventional water (although the distilled) is recommended, but it does not remove oxides. Therefore, most of the car owners use a solution of soda for these purposes, and only after it is water. You should not take something more chemically strong, you can damage the car. Some carbuilders for washing use a conventional Coca-Cola and assure that the effect of it is even better than soda.
There are fans of physical methods, i.e. However, he has significant disadvantages: firstly, scratches remain on terminals, which will provoke their further, and faster oxidation. Secondly, the friction is completely oxidized to remove it - the inconspicable eye of the little things will still remain that is not good. After removal, all the details wipe dry and proceed to lubricant.
Time-tested lubricants
The most popular solidol (as an option is a lithol or nigrol), used by our grandfathers. After tight tightening the terminals, they are lubricated with a thin layer - and for six months you are guaranteed from problems (if the tightness is not impaired, there is no breakdown, etc.).
The second place among traditionalists is occupied by Vaseline - both technical and ordinary pharmacy. But, if Solidol is in principle, even with supporters of innovations, then vaseline they have a lot of doubt. It is well protecting the terminals from moisture, to some extent hinders their "soldering" to the battery, but he has difficulty with conductivity. To overcome them to Vaseline, many add graphite lubricant.
Method for lazy: When checking the oil level, the diplomas fall on the terminals. Since the level is checked often, the lubricant is updated regularly, and the prevention of the battery will be required not soon - again, if it does not have "personal" problems described above. Although it is still worth occasionally from dust.
If solidol is selected. Beginner motorists from generation to generation repeat the same error: they apply it between the batteries and wire terminals. They forget that from high temperatures (which cannot be avoided) solidol collapsing and hardens.
As a result, dry, very dense crust. She does not conduct current, as a result of which contact disappears. And it is extremely difficult to consider it! By the way, a warning concerns other lubricants: problems with them are less difficult eliminated, but also unpleasant.
Supporters of progress
In the auto shops there are a huge number of different lubricants for battery terminals. You can advise the following:
- Molykote HSC Plus.. Designed for FIMM batteries, but can also be used for others. Her electrical conductivity is quite high, and the lubricant retains performance at temperatures from minus thirty to + 1100 ° C;
- German spray-grease. The manufacturer guarantees the absence of transient resistance and the presence of a stable voltage. Very convenient to use - I pressed the button and apply. Protection heat resistant, plus does not allow oxidation from acid evaporation batteries;
Very often, during the diagnosis, car owners look under the hood and notice that the battery terminals are covered with a white bloom. To preserve and extend the battery life, and in a consequence, the working capacity of the car, you need to figure out why it happens and how to deal with it.
Causes of oxidation of terminals
To begin with, it is worth saying what the main task of the battery battery is to ensure reliable starting engine. All other functions are secondary. Due to the availability of battery, the on-board systems of the car can work even turned off the engine, but still the main task is to start the engine. By virtue of the complexity of the device, the AKB may or worsen their characteristics, or in order to fail.
The main faults of the battery are:
1) Oxidized terminals and output pins;
2) The disturbed integrity of the hull leading to the flow of electrolyte;
3) Excessively fast self-discharge.
Now about the causes of oxidation. The main reasons why white colors appears on terminals, are:
1) Elemental electrolyte. This is the state of the battery itself. It happens often during recharging - this may occur due to the generator and charging circuit of the battery. Another reason for the flowing of the cells on the battery can be, as well as the different electrolyte density. Remember and what is the quality of the housing for the battery. The electrolyte can flow out of the slots and cracks formed in the body. Terminals can also be oxidized due to electrolyte hitting it through the gap near the battery contact. It is formed while the terminal vibrates or is loosened in the case itself.
2) Mallings with automotive power grid.The root cause of plaque is bad contact between the contact and the battery terminal itself. Another phenomenon takes place due to bad contacts in contact groups, relays and other narrow wiring areas.
3) The closed ventilation openings of rechargeable cans. Due to the accumulated mud, the electrolyte pressure is increased in the battery. Due to excessive pressure, the liquid can flow through the holes available in the housing.
Basically, the oxidized terminals indicate that it will soon come when it is necessary to replace the battery. Regardless of the reasons for the appearance of tracks from electrolyte in the terminals, the resulting acid has an extremely negative impact on the state and your car.
In order to determine whether the acid hit the terminals of your battery, it is enough to rinse with it with a warm solution of soda (a maximum of a decade-free solution, otherwise difficult white spots are formed). If the terminals were acid, then the electrolyte traces will begin to wash off, it will be manifested through the boiling reaction and the release of a small amount of heat. It is advisable to carry out this operation on the prepared capacity, so that nothing falls on the body. If you can remove the battery, then do it so that you can rinse the battery or on the street, or in the garage. In case the white soda flair does not "take", then use the sandpaper or knife. You can generally acquire a special brush for cleaning terminals.
Often, on the forums, you can read that the car owner will clean the terminal of the battery of gasoline, after which it was blinded by the gloss of the metal. Always remember that gasoline is a flammable material that has the properties of the solvent, so during cleaning it can dissolve rubber and plastics. But most the best way - This is the prevention of oxidation, and not consistent removal of electrolyte residues with terminals. The sooner you find the problem and eliminate the reason for its appearance, the less harm will receive a car.
Methods of combating oxidation
Remember that even in a fully feeble and working battery will still evaporate a minor amount of acid. Therefore, absolutely all methods of combating oxidation are reduced to ensuring the tightness of the compound. In no case do not allow contact of any protective composition to contact themselves. The surface of the terminals and pins must be protected and wipe dry, after which you need to secure all the connections. Only at the end of these procedures can apply a protective coating. The following methods of protecting the terminals from the formation of white acid plates on them:
1) oil and felt. This method is checked for years, as it is known that this is the way that our grandfathers chose. That is why this option is so popular among car owners. In order for the electrolyte couples not to enter the terminal and do not harm it, as well as to minimize the impact external factors On the terminal, they are covered with felt, which was pre-impregnated in machine oil.
In order to do this, you need to cut a round gasket with a hole in the middle. The prepared gasket must be soaked in oil and put on the battery contact (terminal). After that, it is necessary to wear the machine onboard network of the machine, that is, fasten, after which it also needs to be placed on the felt melt.
2) varnish, solidol, technical vaseline. In principle, you can take any liquid material that is not washed off and isolates. Perfectly suitable silicone lubricants. It is this material that is used by car owners due to the fact that all other materials are absorbed dust and dirt.
3) Felt washers. The method is the same as with felt. On the terminal you need to wear a washer in order to protect it.
4) Special lubricant (antique) with anti-corrosion properties. These funds are sold in the form of aerosols, which must be applied to the terminals. You can find this tool in a specialized store.
Lubrication selection for battery terminals
You need to choose a lubricant for battery terminals, as otherwise problems may occur. The negligence when choosing can turn through the time the need to start "from the short", and through time and at all will have to replace the battery, as it will completely fail. The recovery of the battery is very expensive from the point of view of finance, and the purchase will cost even more. The choice of lubricant for terminals is the subject of disputes that have not subsided for a long time ago. Among the car owners there are adherents of the newest technical developments of the industry, someone prefers proven methods. Consider arguments for and against.
Preventive work - the key to the long life of the battery. Since the prevention of laid formation is better than its permanent removal, then you need to find out the root cause of this phenomenon. In this question, it is enough to simply seal through which the electrolyte pairs come out. Before lubricating the terminals, you need to remove the oxide and accumulated dust from the battery. It has previously been said that traces from the vapor of electrolyte are removed by the soda solution, and the dust can be removed by conventional distilled water.
The most popular lubricant is a time proven solidol. This option is very common, as it is applied for quite a long time. After the terminals are tightened, it is necessary to apply solidol onto a thin layer. After that, for about six months, you will forget about the problem, then only provided that everything is hermetically, and there is no breakdown. Further, vaseline is in popularity - and pharmacy, and technical. Although this method is quite controversial, if only because solidol is used even those who prefer innovations. Vaseline will definitely protect the terminals from moisture, does not allow them to solder them to the battery case, but there are problems with conductivity.
In order to overcome them, you need to add graphite lubrication to Vaseline. Option for especially lazy: When you check the oil, get the diploma dipstick. Since the oil level must be checked often, the lubricant update will be regular, it will be necessary to carry out prevention soon, but only if it works properly. It is advisable to remove dust from the surface from time to time. You can assume a mistake that you have admitted to you very much - when processing solidol, many lay it between the terminals of the battery and wires.
At the same time, the car owners do not remember that in conditions high temperatureswhich catches the "Heart" of the car, the solidification of solidol occurs, that is, as a result, we have a dry, very dense crust. Through it, the current will not pass, from which contact disappears. Remove this very crust is very difficult. Such warnings concern not only solidol, but also other lubricants - problems arising from their operation is also quite difficult to eliminate.
If you are an adherent of technical progress, the lubricant from the car shop will suit your battery. Highly good feedback Received Molykote HSC Plus lubricant, which was designed specifically under batteries FIMM.Although applicable for other batteries. It is characterized by quite high electrical conductivity, as well as the ability to maintain its technical characteristics when fluctuating temperatures from -30 to + 1100 ° C. Next, German greases are in popularity.
They do not create transitional resistance, but provide stable tension. It is very convenient to use - you just need to click on the button, after which you can apply lubricant. This lubricant is not terrible temperature, it also will not allow oxidation from electrolyte evaporation. The most loyal in terms of prices is the "CIATIM" means, but here he has problems with conductivity - some consider it insufficient.
It is clear that the manufacturer does not always consider the battery, rather, the installed devices are not the most successful design, each can have its own cover, which will definitely penetrate dirt and dust. Since the plugs are somewhat, then the risk of garbage from the electrolyte is significantly increasing. You can make all the traffic jams along the felt cap, after reading the material in the oil, but to make, install and use such a fixture will be quite difficult. More reasonable will be the decision to make overall protection - something on the likeness of the anther. Even linoleum is suitable for this, but it will look like not quite aesthetic. You can take a rug from the "classics" to be done in the size of the lid. So he will fall as the wrong.
Be vigilant when diagnosing a battery. It is important to detect the problem in time so that it does not develop further to more destructive consequences. I wish you success.
A friend who returned from the maintenance, indignantly swung the resulting account: for the lubrication of the terminals of the battery with it almost as a full tank on a gas station! Creek Soul: Why are they generally lubricated?
I remember, in the "Zhigulevskaya" era of the Akb terminal and the tips of the connecting wires are abundantly covered with lithol and other solidols - but is it necessary to do this today? Let's think.
Why lubricate them?
Not at all in order to improve electrical contact in the chain. And lithol and modern meansPresented in the photos are dielectrics, and therefore can only worsen conductivity. Their task is to protect contacts from external influence. The fact is that non-ferrous metals (in our case - lead alloy) have a bad habit of oxidizing under the action ambient. Humidity is made in the place of installation of the battery, the malfunction of its ventilation system, and on the ancient machines - and the leakage of the battery. It is clear that all these reasons need to be eliminated, and not only to deal with their consequence, but does not interfere with one another.
What is the scary oxide films?
How does the lubricant fight with oxides?
In no way! If the terminal was already oxidized, then lubricants are useless. In this case, you need to disconnect the battery from the network, clean the terminals and tips to the brilliance, then re-connect the battery - and only then use lubricants. They prevent the appearance of oxides, but are not able to eliminate them.
Spray or smear?
All battery manufacturers, pointing to the need to lubricate the terminals, say precisely on consistant oil-like preparations. They hold longer on the treated surface, creating more reliable insulation in comparison with sprays. Although the appointment of all drugs is one to force water and create a protective surface.
What are bad old tools like lithol?
They are noticeably inferior to modern in efficiency: they are easily washed off with shampoos, they have a loose, loose structure, there are no additives and additives. Yes, and the dye is not provided. Trifle, but with colored lubricant to work more conveniently. However, many instructions for domestic batteries do not change for decades, and therefore still recommended lubricants like the same lithol-24.
Outside or inside?
In the instructions of foreign firms, an erroneous translation is often found when it is recommended to lubricate the terminal before putting on the tip of the wire. In fact, the connection "Terminal - Tip" must have maximum contact "Metal to Metal". Therefore, the applix of the dielectric inside nothing but harm will not bring.
Is it possible to use mechanical cleaning of terminals - for example, emery paper?
Yes. For example, the company "Act" directly indicates the instructions: To remove an oxide film from the battery conclusions, use sandpaper. And in Soviet times for mechanical cleaning of terminals and tips, special metal rams were used - internal and external. By itself, the sandpaper should be shallow, because to change connecting dimensions It is impossible.
Is the terminal of modern batteries too oxidize?
The current material processing methods have rolled us from shells and other inhomogeneities. Some battery manufacturers even use bushings manufactured by external firms. Podcast space modern cars It is also better protected from exposure to external factors. But the contacts are still oxidized - even slower than 30-50 years ago.
- (1) Spray cleaners Electrical contacts are Astrohim, Hi-Gear, Svitol, Permatex and other brands. They are usually made on an oil basis - for example, on a purified vaseline oil. Purifiers oust water and form a protective insulating film on the surface. They are suitable for surface processing of the battery terminals, but are inferior to greases in the strength of the coating.
- (2) Grease lubricants To protect battery terminals, supplied, for example, firms Liqui Moly. And Gunk. Unlike aerosols, these lubricants create a "long-playing" insulating coating. Their base is also oil. Resistant to shampoos. The bright color of modern lubricants facilitates control over the preparation.
So lubricate or not? Our opinion
The likelihood that the unwashed terminal gives some problems today is small. Materials are high-quality, under the hood relatively clean, the case of the battery is sealed. Yes, and the money is a pity. But still we believe that lubricant is useful. If only because it is one of the additional bricks creating
