VAZ 21213 does not start. Why Niva Chevrolet does not start: the starter turns, but the engine does not grab
Yours technical equipment It should be impeccable - after all, the time you have, there are the same money that we hope you also have. Do not lose any other. If there is a disappearance of a tie or a library, a trouser who has lost the iron can cause a breakdown of a business meeting, then talking about a car that does not want to start an hour before the appointed negotiations.
Early in the morning, the freshly brightened and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - in a hairdresser, and he himself - to joke a labor penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and ... what a damn ... still time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is spoiled from the very beginning. Plans and mood - a cat under the tail.
Calm down. It is not necessary to rush under the English costume under the hood and, sinking the tie oil mud, try to diagnose. In 5 minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a friend to the evening. And better instruct his doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have a dear car, and you are not special. So it will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well acquainted and you consider yourself a healer - Well, try yourself, if not too lazy to get dirty or another output.
To the formulation of the diagnosis we must start quietly
Examine mentally symptoms. First - does the starter twist? And if so, how much is cheerful? You already know the answer - recall what happened at the first attempts to start the car. If you do not remember - try again.
If the starter does not twist at all and does not even click the traction relay when inclusion ignition, it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: "Take another machine .."), or trouble with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power supply chain can be protected by a fuse - the amper of the AMPE is 300 - it is easy to find it, especially if you know where it is located in advance. If the battery is to blame, then all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case - flew or contaminated one of the terminals, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fastenings of the terminals on it and at the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery completely sat down (they forgot to turn off the headlights on the night), you can still leave. But with an extreme help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start with a shock, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to bypass underwater stones: a car with an automatic box or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) with these ways it will not be possible to start. We'll have to bite the neighbor. True, some machines may damage the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is twist, but sluggish (it happens in summer, in winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be visible on the weak light of the headlight or a sick signal. In this case, the above assistance options come into effect.
If the starter turns cheerfully, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, boldly exclude from further reflections all connected with the battery. Patya on the ignition system or fuel supply, you will not be mistaken. When making a diagnosis and treatment of each of them, a systematic approach is required. Start better from ignition - there are more often malfunctions. Especially in crude weather.
From the spark will marry ...
So, you need to look for a spark. Your machine can be equipped with a classic (simplest) ignition contact system, a rather complicated electronic contactless or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part One is low-voltage (interrupter contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in the electronic, plus a box with an electronic stuffing forming a spark). Part Two is an increase in the transformer, referred to in the world of the ignition coil. Part Three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires, for which the high voltage current is summed up to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The check of all this farm must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.
The first stage. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the central wire - this is the one that connects the coil with the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cover, closer to any part that has a good contact with the mass of the car (it is painted or not, it does not matter), and the gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.
If the ignition of your machine is electronic, it is necessary to mount the wire especially reliably - if it falls on the ground, the electronics will instantly order for a long time. For the same reason, it is impossible to chirp the wire on the case. Do not advise him by hand either, not even with your own - it will hit the current.
Stage second. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what happens on the tip of the wire. Two options are possible. A more favorable is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by loud-clicking. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.
First of all, you need to remove the distributor cover. Under it can be raw and dirty. According to such a "conductor," the spark is willingly slipping anywhere, but not there, where it is necessary. Wash out, clean and dry. At the same time, it is harmful to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, a shallow eye. Inspect the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trail of the electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to change.
The most respectful way to check the wires from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and clean. If with them, in your opinion, everything is in order, you can put the lid in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the fault was burned under the lid - the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn, clean and dry the candles - in trying to start the engine you poured them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles still have to turn, clean and check. Simply, if there is a spare kit.
If you have already reached the step of turning the candles, it is possible to be quite effective (and effectively) to check the entire ignition system as a whole. Connecting the high-voltage wires to the twin candles, collect candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap directly along their threaded part with a naked soft wire. Make sure the wire has contact with each candle, but does not concern the central electrodes. Fluent wire end connect with mass. By placing a beam of candles in a convenient place to observe the location, screw the engine starter. At the same time, there should be funny sparks between the electrodes of candles in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinders). If so, then the whole ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be scared, because it spins with twisted candles. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of checking there is another option: the sparks between the central wire and the "case" is not. So it's not about high voltage chains. Further search will be more complicated, appreciate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if the voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. It is easy to make a tester, and if it is not, you can use a rotor light bulb. True, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. In the classic ignition system, connect the light bulb between the mass and the input of the primary winding.
In the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: the voltage to the coil is either served or not. If it is served, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, it happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to change. It is more likely to be bad contact in the mounting of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, according to which the spark bucks not known where. Sometimes the coil is cleaned to the brilliance, but under it the invisible very narrow strip of dirt is preserved - a good conductor.
If, at the third stage, you were convinced that the coil voltage is not served - the electronics or contacts and contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. With electronics (switch and, less often, sensor in the distributor housing) you can not cope - for their diagnostics you need special equipment. It is possible for you to pull the sensor connector on the dispenser housing - suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic ignition contact system, you can find further.
Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the interrupter - they can oxidize, especially if the car stood for some time without movement. Contacts need to be carefully cleaned with a thin eyelet or special nadfyl.
Hold the cleaned contacts so that they are closed, they swallowed. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so it is possible to pull without knowlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the coil voltage is still not fed, we once again advise you to finish the attempts to resuscitate the car, since the difficulty will begin.
If the voltage appeared (when moving the contacts, the lamp flashes), restore all the developed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe still will have time to do. If it does not start, but at least sneezes - turn out the candles and ...
Do not press the floor - it will not help
It may turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order, and the engine, even though you are crazy, does not start. Therefore, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, i.e., fuel supply to the engine.
If you have an injection machine ( injector system Feed) Fuel - Do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was broken by it: there is a spark that fuel is suitable - it means she is rim. Treatment only in the hospital. At home and kustareys, it is useless to repair it and even harmful.
In the usual carburetor Engine fuel system Simply - tank, gas station, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can smooth yourself. First of all, you need to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and click on the manual fuel swap lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline scored - everything is fine, it's time to go to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is applied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not come. If there is time and desire, remove air filterAfter that, ask someone to sharply press the accelerator pedal. Or you yourself dramatically pull the drive cable throttle valve. At the same time, look at the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): If the gasoline strika does not appear in the first diffuser - it means that there is no it in the float chamber. There is no it there because the needle of the valve (it happens very often) is completely clogged with a fuel filter in the carburetor - it is located before float Camera. Or zepers clouded. The filter is purified by purging, however, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better not to bind to the carburetious insides at all, to deal with the healing of the needle valve, clogging of loopholes and other subtleties - let it make specialists.
If the trickle is in the diffuser, pay attention to the launching device of the carburetor - it is quite often fail. On foreign cars starting from about the 70s, applied automatic control air damper. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the flap as far as it is necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine starts. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal councils. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. Air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to the place) .. if when checking the fuel supply by a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline from the hose does not go or the trickle is very fluid, the reason should be sought in the closed pipelines, the fuel filter or fuel filter The fuel tube itself - you can easily demonstrate your masterness, pumping the benzins of the tire pump in the direction, inverse the movement of gasoline, i.e. from the carburetor to Baku. In the tank should be heard the ardor, bullous sounds.
With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although almost all modern models, it is made in a transparent building, the degree of contamination is impossible to visually determine. The dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to go normally. If it is completely clogged - the engine does not start. The most efficient check: Remove the filter and, if there is no new, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the ballpoint housings are better transparent - it can be seen how gasoline flows. Do not attempt to clean the filter - a walled (or missed) case does not understand.
If you came to the conclusion that your car does not work the fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".
Rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we left at last. If the starter works fine, you have already spent a bunch of time and made sure that the ignition and nutrition are in perfect order, and the car, however, does not start - it is worth considering the drive belt distribution Vala. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The complexity is that we will have to remove or at least partially bend the top of the closing belt of plastic casing. It is possible that the belt was cut off the teeth - in the belts, like people, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain drive camshaft, this trouble is not threatened). The belt replacement procedure is not complicated, but troublesome. Carried out in the hospital. Well, if everything limits the replacement of only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block of the block - it also happens.
About the causes of atherosclerosis
Let's try to explain why the car's blood system is sometimes amazed by "atherosclerosis". Gasoline - blood car. And blood should be clean and run through clean vessels. And in the fact that in vessels over a permissible measure, "cholesterol" is accumulated, as a rule, we are to blame. Do you often use Cannomen for gasoline topping? If so, the chances of cloging the benzipers and filters are rising, especially if your funnel without a mesh. In the canister usually accumulate trash, rust, sand, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the smaller the amount of intermediate packaging is used on the path of gasoline from the column to the tank, the better. Whatever enough, even on the most saddeless gas station of dirt in tanks in a specific rate than in the "home" cancut. Beach of our benzokolonok is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. On our memory, only one rogue has grown on the dilution of gasoline, and it is not water, but with donkey urine, and not in life, but in the movies (see "Gentlemen of Good luck"). So you have to put up. However, to properly do not add water to domestic diluted gasoline, try to always keep the tank full. In an incomplete tank, condensate accumulates, especially in the offseason, when sharp temperature differences occur.
Smaller fucking
It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since on most modern cars, it is maintenance free, it makes no sense to give here instructions for use. We will give only a few additional advice, how long to keep the battery viable. Do not get carried away with your machine with additional energy consumers. The fact that in the energy balance of the machine is provided for a defined stock that allows you to connect to two-three "thugs", does not mean that you can hang six clicksons for the car and ten foglights - have a sense of measure. In addition, if you connect the unforeseen Tsatski yourself, the likelihood of insulation damage is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified operational intervention in the wiring of the car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.
If your battery breathes to incense, try not to kick the engine during cutting stops in the city. Nothing raises the battery as a frequent use of the starter.
And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also the entire electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips should be dry and clean and well to lay down to "destinations". Dirty, grilled insulation sooner or later breaks through, and the burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of the ignition system failure. Or fire.
This can be stopped. The meticulous car enthusiasts undoubtedly noticed at some superficialness of our tips. We admit, we intentionally do not want to go deep into the debrist. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain at the bottom of the belly on the right does not mean that you yourself must delete your appendix. But you need to describe the doctor's doctor's symptoms for sure. Very helps treatment.
The car has become an integral part of our life. It often helps at the right moments. However, it happens that a person is late somewhere, and only the car can help out. But, sitting in the car, the driver understands that it does not start. In this case, it is necessary to find the cause, because of which it happened. With this problem, some owners of Niva Chevrolet are facing. Do not start the car can for various reasons. If this happens, motorists start thinking, because of what it is. However, it is not easy to understand what exactly failed. Since any car has a rather complicated structure. This article will consider the reasons due to which "Niva Chevrolet" will not be started. And ways to eliminate them.
History
In the 1980s, the car called "Niva" was produced at AvtoVAZ. The management and engineers of the enterprise began to understand that the model is obsolete and loses its popularity. Then they began to work on the update "Niva". The restyling model was first represented by a wide audience in 1998 and had the VAZ-2123 index. However, at this time the company suffered some economic problems, because of which the mass release of the new model could not be implemented in full. At AvtoVase, the model was produced only from 1998 to 2002, and, as a rule, small parties. In 2002, the rights to the production of the car bought Chevrolet. From this point on, the model began a completely different future. The company's experts began to improve the car. The beginning of production "Niva Chevrolet" occurred in September 2002. It is worth noting that AvtoVAZ wanted to continue the release of the car under the trademark "Lada", but at the Chevrolet plant. However, the American company amounted to documents in such a way that it became impossible.
A record number of cars issued was recorded from November 2006 and until April 2008. Then the conveyor took about 1000 copies. The car has equipped opel Motor Z18xe and 5-speed MCPP AISIN.
In 2009, a restyling model was produced. Thanks to this changed significantly appearance "Niva Chevrolet". It was installed on the design elements from BERTONE. Also, the changes touched the chassis and motor.
Causes of poor car launch
To correctly eliminate the malfunction, you need to know why Niva Chevrolet will start. The reason, due to which the engine start does not occur. Make it can be done different ways: After examining the testimony of all sensors on the instrument panel, after listening to the sounds that come from the motor in the work of various actions. Below will be considered the most frequently arising reasons for the poor motor launch in the Niva Chevrolet car.
Problems in electrics
The reason for the bad launch can be a malfunction in the electrical part of the car. Most often - this is a discharged battery. Also often the reason that Niva Chevrolet is not started, a starter malfunction may become. This is due to its wetting or end of service.
The oxidized battery terminals can cause poor motor launch. Therefore, they need to be protected from oxidation by special means. And if it happened, then clean.
No less often is due to defective spark plugs. They may suffer due to bad gasoline, after which their normal work will break. Also, they can simply end the service life.
The Chevrolet-Niva engine may not start due to a blown or wet fuse. Most rare case - This is the failure of the immobilizer. However, this is possible. If this happened, the car does not start.
Malfunction of the mechanical part
For the reasons caused by the mechanical part of the car, refers: clogging the fuel filter or fuel pump, due to which both elements fail; clogging nozzles; The ending oil in the motor or coolant in the radiator. The last reason is very dangerous because because of this force aggregate It may overheat and fail. Rarely, but still it happens that the motor does not start due to the ending gasoline, since the driver did not follow its level, or due to a broken fuel sensor.
Clarification of the cause
So, most often "Niva Chevrolet" will not start the first time due to damage in electronics or mechanical part of the car. But how to understand what kind of element fell out of order? After all, there are many options for checking, and to check them all, you can spend all day. You can learn the cause with a careful inspection and study of all elements, as well as using the prompts that the car itself gives.
It is much faster to find out why the "Niva Chevrolet" does not start on the cold, a specialist will help. He will come to the scene the breakdown itself and recognizes the cause rather quickly with special equipment and tools. However, for such a service will have to pay a considerable amount of money. It is possible to reduce this process if you drive a car in tow before the nearest service. This service will be less costly financially, but will take longer.
Why "Niva-Chevrolet" to save money you can find out the reason for the poor engine launch yourself. It is necessary to resort to the help of specialists if all possible nodes and mechanisms are checked and are in good condition, and the motor does not start anyway. In this case, only special equipment will help.
Clarification of problems in electrics
In most cases, it is possible to determine the cause of the fault by independently without any problems. You need to turn the key. If after that no indicators on the instrument panel light up, it means that the problem is in the battery. Most likely, he discharged or failed. In this case, you can recharge a little battery, which will take several hours. You can also try to "searcate" the battery from another car. If such actions do not lead to anything, the replacement of the battery will be necessary.
If the battery is in good condition, you need to check: may not start "Niva-Chevrolet", since the starter does not twist. Make it easier to take advantage of the voltmeter. For this, its wires must be attached to the starter clamps and see the testimony. It also happens that the battery is in good condition, but does not give the starter of the desired charge, which is necessary to start the motor. In this case, the starter will make clicks, and nothing more.
It is also necessary to inspect the battery terminals. It often happens that they are oxidized, and contact is not in contact. And all due to the fact that the owners simply do not follow the state of the terminals. It is quite easy to determine this, when inspection, the oxidation will be well noticeable.
If the above nodes are in good condition, you need to check the spark plugs. To do this, you need to unscrew and inspect. They must be dry and without black in black.
Sometimes a bad launch of a motor at Niva Chevrolet happens because of the fuses failed. They can also be inspected. If any of them is melted or donor, his service life passed.
Sometimes the ignition relay fails. If at the turn of the key does not happen absolutely nothing, most likely, this is the element. If the car does not start because of the immobilizer, apparently, in the key chain just got a battery.
Clarification of the reasons in the mechanical part
If on dashboard Check Engine and the engine "Niva Chevrolet" engine will not start, most likely, the problem lies in clogging the nozzle. In principle, nothing complicated.
Repair "Niva Chevrolet"
The most important thing is to find out the causes of the poor launch of the motor. When the fault was already found, it's quite simple to get rid of it. Almost any of the above reasons is easily eliminated. With a competent approach, all this can be fixed in a short time without circulation for help to someone. Even if the "Niva Chevrolet" does not start, the starter does not twist.
Outcome
Although Niva-Chevrolet and wears a few American name, its assembly is still carried out in Russia. That is why quality is no different from other Russian models. Because of this, there are similar breakdowns, after which the engine is not possible. However, by studying the nodes, without any problems, it is possible to eliminate the problem that has arisen over a short period of time and without tremendous costs. In the case of a serious breakdown, you can contact any car service where the device knows and can make the repair "Niva Chevrolet" completely.
- First of all, for all types and models of cars, it is worth paying attention to the battery - it can be worn out or just discharge.
- Wooered or became unusable starter.
- Terminals could oxidize, which led to a bad battery contact.
- Faults are often due to defects of ignition candles, which occur when using poor-quality fuels. Also, the candles could simply wear out, forming a big gap.
- Another reason is the burning of the fuse.
- Ignition relay breakage.
- It is possible that the wire feeding the starter or injector was cut off.
- Immobilizer does not work.
Mechanical malfunctions
- The most banal cause is the absence of fuel in the gas tank. This can happen due to the inattention of the driver or damage the sensor.
- Another reason is to clog the fuel pump or fuel filter.
- Can clog the nozzle.
- The engine overheats in case of insufficient amounts in it or if the oil in the toosol radiator.
- An idle regulator may be damaged.
Finding out the cause of the breakdown
If you want your Niva Chevrolet to start, you must define a malfunction. You can do it yourself or contact the car mechanic. But the second option requires serious cash investments. Most optimal option, without a significant cost of time and blood earned, is to try to determine the reason for which your machine refuses to start. In the case when you independently find out the damage to the car you can not manage, you will have to turn to a specialist.
When you turn the key you can diagnose the ACB problems. If the panel, as they say, is silent, then you need to charge the battery. The recharging does not take much time, just a few hours. Perhaps the battery has already made out of the order, then it must be replaced by a new one.
The cause of the fault happens in the starter. It can only be stated in the absence of problems with the battery. It happens that you turn the key, the starter clicks, but is not activated. Specialists say that in this case the battery does not conduct the required number of current to start the engine. To make sure problems with the starter, you need to measure the current and voltage volt and ammeter.
Sometimes problems with the car arise through problems of contacts of the battery. They can be found by lifting the hood and visually assessing the level of oxidation. Unfortunately, the owners of the car do not always do this, the presence of rubber linings on the terminals.
Hello! I have a VAZ 21213 Niva, when turning the key in the ignition lock, there is no characteristic inclusion noise fuel pump. . What to do? Thank you! (Pavlov Sergey)
Good day, Sergey. We will tell about the reasons for the failure of the gas station below.
[Hide]
Why doesn't the pump work?
So, what may be due to the inoperability of the element:
- First of all, it is necessary to check the performance of the fuses. Open the unit and find a fuse or relay responsible for the functioning of the fuel pump. If the element has failed, you need to replace it.
- The device itself has failed. In this case, it will only be replaced by replacing the pump assembly.
- No contact. You need to get to the device and check the performance of all contacts - there is no breakfast, whether all the wiring harnesses are connected.
- Bad mass of the aggregate. Sometimes it happens that the mass of the mass oxidized and cannot transmit contact. In this case, you need to check its condition and deteriorate if necessary. If with a mass of the problem, then you will also notice that the gasoline level arrow will fall on the dashboard.
Now as for the starter, why he refuses to twist:
- The simplest is the discharged battery. Perhaps you are first of all, but we must warn about it. Try or "bribe" from another car.
- Signaling. In some cases, in practice, we have repeatedly come across such a problem as alarm closure. This is happening for various reasons - due to water from entering the alarm unit, wiring cliff, etc. But the result is one - if the signaling block closes, there will be no fuel pump. The problem is solved by repairing fees or its replacement, although the search may take a certain time.
- The failure of the retractor relay. In this case, the starter will either be silent or buzz, but it will be impossible to start the engine.
- Bendix breakdown. This element is a gear located on one shaft with a starter rotor. In the event that a strong wear of teeth formed on the gear, problems can occur with the engine start.
- Worn sleeves. The only way out will be replaced.
- Wear device windings. This occurs as a result of the fact that the element has already worked out its resource of operation. Replacing the windings - the case is not easy and time consuming, it will be easier to completely change the component completely.
Video "How to find the cause of the pump breakage"
In detail about the search for the cause of the breakdown of the fuel pump, look at the video (author - Sergey L).
5.1.1. The engine will not start
Yes: see paragraph 5
4. Fault in the ignition lock or in the wiring from the lock to the coil. In order to get to the nearest car service, you can apply emergency food into the ignition system. To do this, connect the additional wire terminal "+ b" ignition coil and terminal "+" rechargeable battery. Wires securely secure. Keep in mind that now to drown out the engine, you will need to disconnect the additional wire from the "+" battery.
A warning
If when connected to the terminal "+" battery, strong sparking will be observed, from this method It will be necessary to refuse - apparently, closes the wiring "for mass".
5. Remove the central wire from the ignition distributor cover. Insert the spare candle in the tip and press it with a metal part to the mass of the car. Turn the starter of the engine crankshaft. Be sure to use a thick rubber glove or passage with insulated handles.
Warnings
Never check the ignition system on the "spark" between the tip of the wire and the "mass", it may lead to serious damage to the switch.
Do not remove the terminals from the battery and the switch connector when the engine is running.
Is there a spark between the candle electrodes?
Yes: see paragraph 7
6. The switch is possible, the hall sensor in the distributor or ignition coil.
7. Remove the distributor cover, unscrewing two screws. Carefully inspect the distributor cover outside and inside for damage (cracks, chips, the destruction of coal contact inside the lid).
Have damage?
No: see p. 9
8. Replace the lid.
9. Check if the rotor (slider) of the distributor is not damaged. Sometimes there is a failure of the interference resistance in the rotor. There are also cases of breakdown of the rotor hull "for mass".
Simultaneously check the starter crankshaft Engine.
A warning
If the distributor rotor does not rotate when the engine turns out the starter - refer to the car service. An open-timer belt breaks or a dispenser drive breakage.
There are doubts? Replace the rotor.
Resistance can be temporarily replaced with a spherical handle spring.
10. Once again, observing precautions, check the presence of a spark. Try to start the engine.
Engine earned?
No: see paragraph 12
11. Have a good trip!
12. Check the presence of a spark on the ignition candlelight. Remove the high-voltage wire from any ignition candle. Insert the spark plug into the tip in the tip and press it with a metal part to the mass of the car. Be sure to use a thick rubber glove or passage with insulated handles. Turn the starter of the engine crankshaft.
Is there a spark?
No: see paragraph 14
13. Replace the spark plug new. You can first try to install not new, but verified, as they say, from the working machine.
14. Replace high-voltage wires new. You can pre-try not new, but verified, "from the work machine".
Checking the carburetor engine power system
A warning
When checking the system, in no case smoke and do not use open fire!
Order procedure
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Your technical equipment should be impeccable - after all, the time you have, there are the same money that, we hope you also have. Do not lose any other. If there is a disappearance of a tie or a library, a trouser who has lost the iron can cause a breakdown of a business meeting, then talking about a car that does not want to start an hour before the appointed negotiations.
Early in the morning, the freshly brightened and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - in a hairdresser, and he himself - to joke a labor penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and ... what a damn ... still time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is spoiled from the very beginning. Plans and mood - a cat under the tail.
Calm down. It is not necessary to rush under the English costume under the hood and, sinking the tie oil mud, try to diagnose. In 5 minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a friend to the evening. And better instruct his doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have a dear car, and you are not special. So it will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well acquainted and you consider yourself a healer - Well, try yourself, if not too lazy to get dirty or another output.
To the formulation of the diagnosis we must start quietly
Examine mentally symptoms. First - does the starter twist? And if so, how much is cheerful? You already know the answer - recall what happened at the first attempts to start the car. If you do not remember - try again.
If the starter does not twist at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: "Take another machine .."), or trouble with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power supply chain can be protected by a fuse - the amper of the AMPE is 300 - it is easy to find it, especially if you know where it is located in advance. If the battery is to blame, then all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case - flew or contaminated one of the terminals, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fastenings of the terminals on it and at the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery completely sat down (they forgot to turn off the headlights on the night), you can still leave. But with an extreme help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start with a shock, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to bypass underwater stones: a car with an automatic box or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) with these ways it will not be possible to start. We'll have to bite the neighbor. True, some machines may damage the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is twist, but sluggish (it happens in summer, in winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be visible on the weak light of the headlight or a sick signal. In this case, the above assistance options come into effect.
If the starter turns cheerfully, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, boldly exclude from further reflections all connected with the battery. Patya on the ignition system or fuel supply, you will not be mistaken. When making a diagnosis and treatment of each of them, a systematic approach is required. Start better from ignition - there are more often malfunctions. Especially in crude weather.
From the spark will marry ...
So, you need to look for a spark. Your machine can be equipped with a classic (simplest) ignition contact system, a rather complicated electronic contactless or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part One is low-voltage (interrupter contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in the electronic, plus a box with an electronic stuffing forming a spark). Part Two is an increase in the transformer, referred to in the world of the ignition coil. Part Three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires, for which the high voltage current is summed up to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The check of all this farm must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.
The first stage. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the central wire - this is the one that connects the coil with the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cover, closer to any part that has a good contact with the mass of the car (it is painted or not, it does not matter), and the gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.
If the ignition of your machine is electronic, it is necessary to mount the wire especially reliably - if it falls on the ground, the electronics will instantly order for a long time. For the same reason, it is impossible to chirp the wire on the case. Do not advise him by hand either, not even with your own - it will hit the current.
Stage second. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what happens on the tip of the wire. Two options are possible. A more favorable is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by loud-clicking. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.
First of all, you need to remove the distributor cover. Under it can be raw and dirty. According to such a "conductor," the spark is willingly slipping anywhere, but not there, where it is necessary. Wash out, clean and dry. At the same time, it is harmful to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, a shallow eye. Inspect the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trail of the electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to change.
The most respectful way to check the wires from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and clean. If with them, in your opinion, everything is in order, you can put the lid in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the fault was burned under the lid - the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn, clean and dry the candles - in trying to start the engine you poured them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles still have to turn, clean and check. Simply, if there is a spare kit.
If you have already reached the step of turning the candles, it is possible to be quite effective (and effectively) to check the entire ignition system as a whole. Connecting the high-voltage wires to the twin candles, collect candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap directly along their threaded part with a naked soft wire. Make sure the wire has contact with each candle, but does not concern the central electrodes. Fluent wire end connect with mass. By placing a beam of candles in a convenient place to observe the location, screw the engine starter. At the same time, there should be funny sparks between the electrodes of candles in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinders). If so, then the whole ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be scared, because it spins with twisted candles. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of checking there is another option: the sparks between the central wire and the "case" is not. So it's not in high-voltage chains. Further search will be more complicated, appreciate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if the voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. It is easy to make a tester, and if it is not, you can use a rotor light bulb. True, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. In the classic ignition system, connect the light bulb between the mass and the input of the primary winding.
In the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: the voltage to the coil is either served or not. If it is served, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, it happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to change. It is more likely to be bad contact in the mounting of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, according to which the spark bucks not known where. Sometimes the coil is cleaned to the brilliance, but under it the invisible very narrow strip of dirt is preserved - a good conductor.
If, at the third stage, you were convinced that the coil voltage is not served - the electronics or contacts and contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. With electronics (switch and, less often, sensor in the distributor housing) you can not cope - for their diagnostics you need special equipment. It is possible for you to pull the sensor connector on the dispenser housing - suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic ignition contact system, you can find further.
Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the interrupter - they can oxidize, especially if the car stood for some time without movement. Contacts need to be carefully cleaned with a thin eyelet or special nadfyl.
Hold the cleaned contacts so that they are closed, they swallowed. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so it is possible to pull without knowlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the coil voltage is still not fed, we once again advise you to finish the attempts to resuscitate the car, since the difficulty will begin.
If the voltage appeared (when moving the contacts, the lamp flashes), restore all the developed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe still will have time to do. If it does not start, but at least sneezes - turn out the candles and ...
Do not press the floor - it will not help
It may turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order, and the engine, even though you are crazy, does not start. Therefore, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, i.e., fuel supply to the engine.
If you have a car with an injection (injector feeding system) of fuel - do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was broken by it: there is a spark that fuel is suitable - it means she is rim. Treatment only in the hospital. At home and kustareys, it is useless to repair it and even harmful.
In the usual carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - tank, fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can smooth yourself. First of all, you need to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and click on the manual fuel swap lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline scored - everything is fine, it's time to go to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is applied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not come. If there is time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to sharply click on the accelerator pedal. Or you can dramatically pull the throttle drive cable. At the same time, look at the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): If the gasoline strika does not appear in the first diffuser - it means that there is no it in the float chamber. There is no it there because the needle of the valve (it happens very often) is completely clogged with a fuel filter in the carburetor - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or zepers clouded. The filter is purified by purging, however, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better not to bind to the carburetious insides at all, to deal with the healing of the needle valve, clogging of loopholes and other subtleties - let it make specialists.
If the trickle is in the diffuser, pay attention to the launching device of the carburetor - it is quite often fail. On foreign cars starting about the 70s, automatic air damper control is applied. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the flap as far as it is necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine starts. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal councils. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. Air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to the place) .. if when checking the fuel supply by a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline from the hose does not go or the trickle is very fluid, the reason should be sought in the closed pipelines, the fuel filter or fuel filter The fuel tube itself - you can easily demonstrate your masterness, pumping the benzins of the tire pump in the direction, inverse the movement of gasoline, i.e. from the carburetor to Baku. In the tank should be heard the ardor, bullous sounds.
With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although almost all modern models, it is made in a transparent building, the degree of contamination is impossible to visually determine. The dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to go normally. If it is completely clogged - the engine does not start. The most efficient check: Remove the filter and, if there is no new, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the ballpoint housings are better transparent - it can be seen how gasoline flows. Do not attempt to clean the filter - a walled (or missed) case does not understand.
If you came to the conclusion that your car does not work the fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".
Rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we left at last. If the starter works fine, you have already spent a bunch of time and made sure that ignition and food are in perfect order, and the car, however, does not start - it is worth considering the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The complexity is that we will have to remove or at least partially bend the top of the closing belt of plastic casing. It is possible that the belt was cut off the teeth - in the belts, like people, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain drive camshaft, this trouble is not threatened). The belt replacement procedure is not complicated, but troublesome. Carried out in the hospital. Well, if everything limits the replacement of only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block of the block - it also happens.
About the causes of atherosclerosis
Let's try to explain why the car's blood system is sometimes amazed by "atherosclerosis". Gasoline - blood car. And blood should be clean and run through clean vessels. And in the fact that in vessels over a permissible measure, "cholesterol" is accumulated, as a rule, we are to blame. Do you often use Cannomen for gasoline topping? If so, the chances of cloging the benzipers and filters are rising, especially if your funnel without a mesh. In the canister usually accumulate trash, rust, sand, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the smaller the amount of intermediate packaging is used on the path of gasoline from the column to the tank, the better. Whatever enough, even on the most saddeless gas station of dirt in tanks in a specific rate than in the "home" cancut. Beach of our benzokolonok is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. On our memory, only one rogue has grown on the dilution of gasoline, and it is not water, but with donkey urine, and not in life, but in the movies (see "Gentlemen of Good luck"). So you have to put up. However, to properly do not add water to domestic diluted gasoline, try to always keep the tank full. In an incomplete tank, condensate accumulates, especially in the offseason, when sharp temperature differences occur.
Smaller fucking
It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since on most modern cars, it is maintenance free, it makes no sense to give here instructions for use. We will give only a few additional advice, how long to keep the battery viable. Do not get carried away with your machine with additional energy consumers. The fact that in the energy balance of the machine is provided for a defined stock that allows you to connect to two-three "thugs", does not mean that you can hang six clicksons for the car and ten foglights - have a sense of measure. In addition, if you connect the unforeseen Tsatski yourself, the likelihood of insulation damage is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified operational intervention in the wiring of the car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.
If your battery breathes to incense, try not to kick the engine during cutting stops in the city. Nothing raises the battery as a frequent use of the starter.
And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also the entire electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips should be dry and clean and well to lay down to "destinations". Dirty, grilled insulation sooner or later breaks through, and the burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of the ignition system failure. Or fire.
This can be stopped. The meticulous car enthusiasts undoubtedly noticed at some superficialness of our tips. We admit, we intentionally do not want to go deep into the debrist. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain at the bottom of the belly on the right does not mean that you yourself must delete your appendix. But you need to describe the doctor's doctor's symptoms for sure. Very helps treatment.
Hello! I have a VAZ 21213 Niva, when you turn the key in the ignition lock, there is no characteristic noise of the fuel pump. . What to do? Thank you! (Pavlov Sergey)
Good day, Sergey. We will tell about the reasons for the failure of the gas station below.
Why doesn't the pump work?
So, what may be due to the inoperability of the element:
- First of all, it is necessary to check the performance of the fuses. Open the unit and find a fuse or relay responsible for the functioning of the fuel pump. If the element has failed, you need to replace it.
- The device itself has failed. In this case, it will only be replaced by replacing the pump assembly.
- No contact. You need to get to the device and check the performance of all contacts - there is no breakfast, whether all the wiring harnesses are connected.
- Bad mass of the aggregate. Sometimes it happens that the mass of the mass oxidized and cannot transmit contact. In this case, you need to check its condition and deteriorate if necessary. If with a mass of the problem, then you will also notice that the gasoline level arrow will fall on the dashboard.
Now as for the starter, why he refuses to twist:
- The simplest is the discharged battery. Perhaps you are first of all, but we must warn about it. Try or "bribe" from another car.
- Signaling. In some cases, in practice, we have repeatedly come across such a problem as alarm closure. This is happening for various reasons - due to water from entering the alarm unit, wiring cliff, etc. But the result is one - if the signaling block closes, there will be no fuel pump. The problem is solved by repairing fees or its replacement, although the search may take a certain time.
- The failure of the retractor relay. In this case, the starter will either be silent or buzz, but it will be impossible to start the engine.
- Bendix breakdown. This element is a gear located on one shaft with a starter rotor. In the event that a strong wear of teeth formed on the gear, problems can occur with the engine start.
- Worn sleeves. The only way out will be replaced.
- Wear device windings. This occurs as a result of the fact that the element has already worked out its resource of operation. Replacing the windings - the case is not easy and time consuming, it will be easier to completely change the component completely.
Video "How to find the cause of the pump breakage"
In detail about the search for the cause of the breakdown of the fuel pump, look at the video (author - Sergey L).
