How to change the front and rear hub bearing with your own hands. Replacing the rear hub bearing - get rid of unpleasant sounds How to replace the rear wheel hub bear

12.11.2019

Replacing the rear hub VAZ 2109 does not have any special knowledge. It is necessary if it took place.
The hubs in turn fulfill a very important role. Without them, the wheels will not rotate at the right speed, which will lead first to damage brake systemAnd after - to the failure of the entire car.
Therefore, if there are any problems with the front hubs, they must be diagnosed in advance so that it is not too late. Replacing the VAZ 2109 hub can be easily carried out on their own.

What causes damage to the rear hubs

Often the hubs cease to function normally if:

In observed although small but the backlash. That is, they are slightly stuck. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that this backlash is not overgrown in the "mega backlash".

Note: If the bearings are staggering too much, they can damage other details located next door.

Gul is heard during bearings. Usually with increasing speed, it is still stronger.
After that, when the speed is reduced, it does not become less quiet. Bearings need to be changed at once.

Note: That is, if the roe is heard only on the one hand, only one bearing is damaged. But most likely the second is also not long. And, in addition, buy two bearings in the kit will be much cheaper than buying them separately.

Bearings overheat. This is due to the fact that they begin to spin much faster than usual.
This can lead to what will be too fast to throw. Therefore, the brake system "will cover".
The hub bearing falls apart. Perhaps it is only at the initial stage of destruction.
It should be urgently changed, since the faulty bearing can cause a serious breakage.
The steering tip works well.
There are shortcomings in the work of the upper or lower ball support.
The nave bearing nut is tightened poorly. Such an oversight can cause backlash.
In this case, you can easily do with the screwing of this nut until it stops. That is, changing the hub or its bearing should not be.

Replacing the rear stops

To quickly and with the quality replacement of the rear hubs, it is necessary:

Raise the car to the jack.
Unscrew the wheel wheel. To do this, the head is useful for 30.
Remove the wheel itself. To facilitate this process, you just need to pull it forward, and the other hand slightly push him back.
Remove stopping support.
After removing, access to the hub will appear. In some cases, it accumulates to the hub, so to pull it, it should be pressed.
Therefore, many remove the hub along with the drum or disk (if disc brakes), and then buy a new disk, and a new hub.
Unscrew the hub nut. It is attached with three bolts.
As the bolts are too close, and here, already very little free space, turn the head is very difficult.

Note: To the too tightened bolt "succumb to", it should be slightly warm. The hot iron is much easier to control, although it is necessary to act carefully, so as not to burn, because it is very quickly heated to high temperatures.

Screwdriver to protrude the hub on the reverse side.
Clear planting place From dust and dirt. Carefully lubricate it with a degreaser.
If a new hub was purchased without a gland (and usually they are sold and sold), then the cuff can be removed with the old and install on a new one. Before installing the gland you need to lubricate with a special fluid.

Note: If necessary, you can drop a sealant several times to get a sealant.

Put the hub in place. Slightly spin the hub nuts so that the hub does not fall out.
Put it inside.
From the reverse side, spin all the necessary screws.

How to replace the rear hub bear

To begin with, it is better to check whether the rear bearing is really faulty. This process is better to produce with the assistant.
For this:

Raise the wheel on the jack. You can also use the lift or observation pit.
Take the car.
Enable 3 or 4 transmission.

Note: The hum is heard immediately.

In order not to interfere with the sound of the engine, you need to click on the clutch, turn off the ignition and listen, there is no extraneous sounds. If the rumble is still observed, then the problem was, indeed, in the bearing.

To change the old bearing on a new, you need:

Unscrew the nave nut. Do it better together.
Free rounded fist from ball support.
Remove the brake caliper by unscrewing two bolts at 17.
Remove with the hub. So easier.
If you twist the disc will be heard again, the incomprehensible sound (resembles the creak), then the problem was precisely in the bearing.
Do not do without a special tool. This is a long bolt with a nut.
Access to the bearing will appear.
It is necessary to remove the locking ring with the help of the roundheads for which there is a special hole.
Remove the bearing using the puller.

Note: It is impossible to do this with a sledgehammer, as it will only spoil his "nest".

Remove the bearing.
Change it.
Collect everything in reverse order.

Note. The cause of the buzz can also be that the bearing is poorly smeared or there are cracks on its surface.

Before pressing you need to thoroughly clean the surface (even a small sand can affect the insertion of the bearing).
Collect everything back.
The most difficult will be - set the ball in place. It's just not to do without assistant.

You can replace the hub and do it yourself. Moreover, this process does not take too much time.
Moreover, now on the Internet there are many photos and videos on this topic. Instructions proposed here, can also help in this difficult question.
She should pay maximum attention. All you need to understand.
And the most important thing is that the price of home repairs will be much lower than that offering car services. You will need to pay only for the hub or bearing (depending on what you need to change).

while in VW cars used conical bearings, they were the most commonly replaceable details, consumables. Even with constant control of the backlash, any jams could damage the clip or rollers and provoke a premature failure. Therefore, to master the replacement technology of the bearing will be useful, perhaps, each owner of the elderly VW 🙂

The hub, into which the outer bearing clips is pressed (and for each wheel two) are the drums (or discs). Therefore, the first thing you need to remove the drums. But over time they wear out, and the resulting bin can prevent, so first you need to reduce the blocks. To do this, it is necessary to raise the clins of self-exploration mechanism. If we had x-ray eyesight, it's not so difficult to find it

To the touch, this is done like this: in the upper and facing the front of the car holes under the wheel bolt, you need to insert a flat diverse, grope the combination of the springs and the clina, and leaning on the drum itself, pry and raise it. It looks like this:

Now the drum and spins easier, and it will be shifted without problems.

Remove the cap closing the bearing. If we are talking about replacement, then in sets of normal manufacturers always lies with a new one, and the old one can be knocked off with a scuffer or chisel. If you plan to adjust or repair brakes, the cap is desirable to shoot carefully

Under it detects pin

We connect the mustache and pull it out

Remove the crown lock, unscrew the nut key on 24

Remove the washer

And now it is possible to remove the drum, evenly pulling on yourself

It is usually removed with both bearings, then they simply remove the score, and throw out

But if you miss the moment when the backlash appears, the bearing can start spinning on the pin, and fuck it

For removal, you need to destroy the separator, remove it, rollers and the gland

Removing lubricant, detect and inner clip

A thin chisel can be parted from the spot

in extreme cases you have to cut with a baccoon

Now you can return to the drum. There are still two outdoor clips pressed in it. Removing the residues of lubrication, you can detect three depressions in the casting, through which the reverse side are visible

That's through them and you need to knock out the clutch, scolding and even chisel

Preferably before pressing new things, we carefully wash the insides

Open the box with the new bearing. According to my personal statistics, the best bearings make a company SKF.. But a very decent and more budget alternative can be considered Fag.

We put a new clip in the drum (do not confuse the directions!)

For accurate pressing, I personally ordered special mandrels from Tokar

They definitely repeat the shape and size of the clip

But for a one-time work, the old robbery will be accumulated on sharpe

Prostrate, of course, is preferably using the press. In the extreme case, vice will come. Some even manage to use the hammer to use 🙂 the main thing that the clip would have entered the mice of the distortion, and until the stop. Gaps should not be

Once again, we wipe the clip, and begin the assembly. We appline thick lubrication on the lubrication of the inner bearing

On the bearing itself

Put it in the drum

The end part is also filling with lubrication.

Then we remove the lubricant from the part where the gland will be pressed. If this is not done, it can fall out over time

Put the gland and fingers pressed into place

I turn over the drum, and repeat the procedure (excluding the gland) with a small bearing

Before installing the drum in place, we carry out the audit of the state of the brake mechanisms.

Klin mechanism must be completely raised

Pads must have the same gap from the edge of the anther

Holding a finger outdoor bearing, put on a drum

We put on a thick puck, controlling that we would be a spout, preventing from rotation, got into the groove

I am inserted with a nut, twist first with your fingers, and then the key to 24, while simultaneously rotating the drum

tighten the nut until the ability to move the stubborn washer with an effort of a flat turning

I do a lot of years in my own way, and so far this method does not fail:

i drag the nut with the key, simultaneously rotating the drum, to a tangible stop. And from this position let go nut for 1/4 turns

I wear a crown lock on the nut, so that the hole in the hub and slots coincided

Insert a pin and push the tips

We put on the cap (no sense to fill in it with no lubricant). I also ordered a special mandrel for this purpose to not deform it

We wear the wheel, turn, then tent in the vertical plane.

It should be spinning easily, it should not be fused :-)

And remember that control over the backlash lies on the owner of the car, and it is necessary to produce it regularly, the first 500 km, and then each time the machine for any reason turns out with possession back wheels.

As a rule, the rear bearing of the VAZ 2110 hub bearing is not so often carried out. The service life should be relatively big Magnia (at least 100 thousand km).
But due to the state of modern roads, this term is significantly reduced, as a result, the early replacement of the rear hub bearing VAZ 2110 will be required.

When the part is required

If noise, hum or "howl" is heard, which significantly increases turns, it says that it's time to check the rear hubs.
Modern methods of checking are quite simple:

i stained the wheel diagonally - the opposite of the subcomparation site, you need to post the two rear wheels alternately.

Note! Why each separately? Often, errors are allowed to identify the side of noise, in addition to this often the need to replace two bearings at once.

the raised wheel must be reclosed as much as possible. If you can hear outsided soundssimilar to the room, in any case can not do without replacing the part;

if you still have some doubts, you can view the transverse backlash. The wheel must be taken by the edges and to ride it from yourself - to yourself.
With the unfit bearing, the movement of the wheel on its axis will feel.

Today in stores sell separate bearings and collected hubs. In fact, there is no point in buying a assembled node (with the exception of individual cases), since it is not so difficult to replace the bearing as it immediately seems.

Detailed rear replacement hub replacement instructions

So:

The car stalls in front.
Wheel bolts.
Nut breaks down the hub center, while you need to take a cap.
The necessary side is subdominated, "Kozelki" is exhibited.
The wheel is removed.
A place for installation is poured by WD-40 or other special fluids.

Note! In this situation, you can use diesel fuel or any brake fluid.

The guide bolts are turned away, which is recommended first to dry up with a hammer.

Carefully removed the brake drum. With the difficulty eating, it is necessary to screw the special bolts into the threads on this drum, the stretch is made and the hammer is riveted.
Typically, such measures give positive results.

Note! You can buy specialized reservoirs of drums, but this is the last option when it is impossible to make anything on your own.

The central nut is completely turns away. Of course, it can be unscrewed immediately and remove the hub, the wheel and drum together, but in this case there will be a high risk of violation.

The hub is tightened. With the residue on the axis of one of the row of the bearing, you need to push it away from the place with the help of a color or sharpened chisel.
The axis is inspected to the presence of traces of the bearing turning, with the presence of such traces it will be necessary to replace the hub in the national form.
The brake cylinder is estimated on the subject of flow, and the pads - for wear.
The locking ring is removed from the hub using round-rolls or screwdrivers.
The edge is necessarily cleaned from rust, after that it must be mixed with WD-40 or a similar fluid that will be at hand.

There are three ways to express the bearing: with the help of a special press, a decor or heavy hammer (sledgehammer). Perhaps the third method will seem aggressive, but it prefers most masters for a hundred, so consider it in more detail.
The hub is reliably installed on a solid surface, and through the mandrel with several blows, the hammer or sledgehammes shift the bearing from their own place. After that, the hub is installed on vice.

Note! Must be supported for the part and the place to scoring the bearing.

There is still a pair of blows, after which the bearing comes out.

The planting plane for the bearing must be thoroughly examined, clean the existing rust with emery paper and lubricate by simple engine oil.
The acquired bearing is required to twist with a selected bolt through the washer that needs to be selected in accordance with the internal clips. Since the Bearings are two-row, when installing them will have to be disassembled.
The hub is installed on a solid surface.
A twisted bearing is set to the top, only you first need to lubricate it with an oil plane.
Paul kilogram hammer slightly align the element in the plane.
A suitable mandrel is taken, for example, a mount, which is hit by the details for pressing the bearing.

Note! The main thing is impossible to apply strong blows, because the pressing will be uneven.

When the bearing will take about half of the way, you can make shocks stronger.
Reaching the cut part of the hub, you need to use the old climax as a mandrel.

Note! It is impossible to apply strong blows, as this is a high carbon metal that can burst.

It is necessary to finish until it stops, after which the stopper is installed, if it does not work normally install the last element, then most likely, the bearing was not to finish.

Note! The stopper must be sprouting in a groove without difficulty.

Procedure for assembling bearing

So:

Now the assembly time has come, the hub dress up on the axis, and it is necessary to remove the bolt used for the clip of the climb.

The central nut is swing as much as possible and tighten. In this case, the installation of a new nut is meant.
We also put a stubborn puck.
It is put on and fastened with a previously removed brake drum with a wheel.
Rotation is estimated if there are no noise, then all actions were performed correctly. The car is removed from the jack.
The wheel with the central nut is tightened.
The nave nuts are closed and the wheels are reliably tightened.

Unfortunately, sometimes our cars break and need to be repaired, it is necessary to change different parts, optics, and in some cases the rear hub bearing is needed, however, as statistics shows, this happens quite rarely.

How to recognize malfunctions in the hub?

The fact is that the hub is an essential element of any rotating mechanism, including car wheel. It is a central part of rotating parts with a hole to possibly the nozzle on the axis or shaft. Thus, its main task is to ensure the rotational movement. In order for the rotation of the axis to be free, the rolling bearings or special plugs will be pressed into the hub hole. In addition, it is thanks to the bearings of the hub, as well as the wheel can rotate.

It is rather necessary to replace the bearing of the hub, it is quite easy, in this case there is a characteristic knock at the back of the bottom of the body, most often, it is enhanced when driving around the uneven road or at the occasion of the pit, as well as hillocks. During the same movement on a relatively level road surface, a buzz may occur. In addition, the brake drum is very hot.

Checking whether the rear wheel hub bearing is needed

First of all, the reason for such a breakdown serve bad uneven roads, especially since in some cases our road surface is generally difficult to call dear. The second reason why the bearing can come into disrepair is non-quality materialFrom which it was manufactured. rear wheel - Not really difficult process, so it can be done quite easily and independently at home.

However, before proceeding directly to actions, it is necessary to find out whether it really matters in it. To do this, it is necessary to post the wheel, from which the hum is heard, and, swaying with his hands, check the backlash. If, when carrying out these actions, the backlash will be detected, and the deaf stuffs will arise, it is impossible to slow with the replacement. The bearing raised on the road will cause damage to other sets of the hub system.

The key to quick and high-quality work is the correctly selected tool and high-quality materials, in this case the bearing. Therefore, do not try to save on it, buy options only from good manufacturers, because it largely depends on the service life.

Replacing the rear hub bearing - your actions step by step

From the tool you will need a screwdriver, a jack, a balloon key, a lithol, a puller for the nave nut, sometimes chisel and mount. Next, having prepared everything you need, act as follows. We put the car for the first gear, pre-laying under the front wheels "shoes". We raise the car using the jack and dismantle the desired wheel. By revealing the guides of the pins, you need to remove the brake drum, most often it is knocked down. Now the hub nut is unscrewed by a special puller and the hub itself is knocked down with the pin. It must come together with the ring of the bearing, otherwise it must be removed by mounting and chisel.

In order to fit the bearing itself, it is necessary to remove the locking ring with special tongs and knock the metal boot. Next you need to lubricate the landing place and with the help of a special puller to press back new bearings. At the same time, consider that it is extremely not desirable to score. Now back and stop ring. Having hitting the inner ring of the bearing, we put the hub back to the pin. Next, you need to tighten the pin and how best to hurt her sides. The process is almost completed, blocks, brake drum are installed on the previous places, and, of course, the wheel.

Rear hub bear For Lada grants quite important element. The importance is determined by the fact that it ensures proper rotation of the wheel. As a result of its work, the bearing is experiencing significant loads, because wear-resistant materials are used in its manufacture. However, whatever durable materials were applied, over time, the detail fails.
Due to the high importance of the node, its replacement is obligatory already when the first signs of malfunction appear.

Signs of the fault of the rear wheel bearing on the grant

In order to replace the element on time, you need to know the symptoms that indicate its inoperability. Below we give some of the most common:

Vibration in the conditions of the car. Vibration can be felt both through the body of cars and in the steering wheel when driving. When such signs appear, careful diagnosis and (or) replacement of the node are immediately carried out.
The appearance of a specific hum, crunch when driving. Such sounds indicate mechanical damage, the destruction of the hub mechanism (spherical elements).

Causes of breakdowns

Below, we give the 2 most common causes of the output of the element in order:

Loss of tightness bearing. The fact is that in the body of the product there is some amount of lubricant to reduce the friction of the internal elements among themselves. Lubrication hold special protective covers made of rubber or plastics. Accordingly, these materials are destroyed over time, which leads to gradual lubrication loss and failure of the hub element.
Large development resource. No matter how carefully you have not exploited your car, over time, most of the nodes and elements come into disrepair. Each part has its own service life. No exception and bearing, the performance of which is about 60 thousand kilometers. In some cases (regular or periodic riding on the wells, in conditions of increased wear), the element fails significantly earlier than the indicators above.

How to change the bearing back hub Lada Grant

The work associated with the removal, the installation of the element will require special tools, namely:
- Special wheel puller;
- chisel;
- removal of lock rings (or passation with round ends);
- head to "30", or the key of the same dimension;
- vice;
- puller for pressing, reasons for bearings;
- screwdriver with a flat end.

So, proceed, below we give 14 detailed stages of performance:

We dismantle the plastic protective cap from the rear wheel.
The gearbox lever is translated into the "1 transmission" position. In order for the machine to be rotated under the front wheels, put the supports.
Weaken the tightening torque for the hub nut (the most convenient to use a long lever). We spoil a little, weakening the tightening of the bolts of the holding wheel.
With a reliable jack, we raise the rear side of the car, where the bearing actually changes.
We spin the nuts and remove the rear wheel with the studs. We dismantle the brake drum.
We unscrew and remove the hub nut, remove the stubborn puck.
We take into my hands prepared earlier puller and gently spin the hub from the axis.
Now take the hub, install and clamp it with vice. Remove the lock ring (use the puller).
We write the bearing from the rear hub. After that, with a brush with a metal pile, we clean the internal space of the hub from pollution. We will prescribe a new product back. Do not forget to correctly install a special locking ring.
Taking advantage of the case, we carry out the cleaning of the elements of the brake system from rust, contaminants.
Dress the hub back to the axial element. We return to the place of the brake drum and put on the wheel back.
Tighten the wheel fastening bolts. Let's release the raised part of the car until the wheel does not confidently touch the ground.
Tighten the hub nut with a key with a long lever (or a special hub key). We return a protective plastic cap.
In order to verify the result of the work performed, we launch the car engine and start moving.

On this replacement of the rear wheel bearing (Lada Grant) is over. As you can see the process is not too complicated. All you need is a good specialized tool and some free time.

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