Used (operating) fluids and filling volumes. Changing the oil in the Niva engine Drain the old oil and fill in new

Changing engine oil is an essential component of proper operation of any car. Timely replacement of the working fluid and oil filter allows you to maintain the engine in optimal condition, ensuring its long-term and trouble-free operation. Because the owners of this SUV domestic production A logical question arises about what kind of oil to pour into the Niva 21214 with an injector, how much is required and how to carry out the replacement procedure yourself. Often it makes no sense to contact car services, since the task is not difficult. It is enough to have a minimum set of tools and some skills. The basis for successful operation will be the oil itself for the Niva engine.

To replace the Niva VAZ 2121 engine, seasonal oil should be used.

Replacement frequency

If you look at the official manual from the automaker represented by AvtoVAZ, you will see numbers there of 10 thousand kilometers. That is, the plant advises changing the working fluid in the power unit at least once every 10 thousand km. But you, as an experienced or novice car owner, must understand that the calculation is made based on average values. It all depends on the conditions in which the car is operated. Since the Niva 21214 is an all-wheel drive SUV, the car is usually used in quite extreme conditions. The characteristics of engine oil are affected by a number of negative factors:

• dirt and dust on roads;
• hilly terrain, bad roads;
• operation under constant loads (cargo transportation, driving with a trailer);
• use of cheap types of oils;
• low quality fuel;
• aggressive driving style;
• sudden climate changes, etc.

Because of this, the actual frequency of oil changes in Niva is reduced by approximately 2 times compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. Owners of Niva 21214 should change consumables approximately every 5–6 thousand kilometers or once a year. Start from what comes first. This is the optimal period of time, since the oil is already beginning to wear out, but does not completely lose its physical and chemical properties. If you continue to drive on the old lubricant, this will result in overheating of the motor, friction between the parts and the resulting failure of the motor or its individual components.

The situation is similar with the oil filter. A standard filter element allows it to be used for 10 - 12 thousand kilometers. But the filter suffers from the same negative factors as the oil itself, since they are closely related. In theory, it can withstand 2 oil changes, but from the standpoint of engine safety, it is better to change the filter itself at each lubricant change. It's not that expensive.

Oil selection

For Niva 21214 it’s not so difficult. But here you need to know some nuances in order to avoid common mistakes. Let's start with the time of year. Not every car owner knows what kind of oil to pour into the engine of his Niva if it’s summer or winter outside. In summer the weather is hot, so engines passenger cars under such conditions they become very hot. “Niva 21214” is an all-wheel drive SUV, and its engine warms up even more. Therefore, many make the same mistake, pouring mineral or semi-synthetic oil. To ensure that the engine runs efficiently and does not overheat, experts recommend using high-quality synthetics.

If the lubricating fluid in the power unit has an insignificant percentage of viscosity, you should not expect the expected effect from it. When the cylinder block heats up, such oils have a consistency similar to ordinary water and their temperature rises rapidly. Therefore, the lubricant will no longer take heat from the engine, performing a cooling function, and will also not be able to create the required pressure. Operating in this mode will lead to rapid jamming of the crankshaft.

Therefore, the manufacturer and experienced car owners themselves advise filling the Niva engine, as well as the Chevy Niva (Chevrolet) engines, with motor oils with a viscosity of 20W40, but not higher than 25W50. These are the optimal viscosity parameters at which the crankshaft can function normally and not create unnecessary load. This way the Niva engine will not heat up above its required temperature. operating temperature at 95 degrees Celsius. Now to the question of what kind of oil to pour into the Niva for the winter. The manufacturer emphasizes that winter oils must have certain characteristics. They should not be:

• very liquid (otherwise an ice film will form from the cold);
• too thick (otherwise the crankshaft will not be able to rotate when starting a cold engine).

For winter, it is better to fill the engine with oil that meets the viscosity parameters of at least 0W40 and maximum 0W50. By pouring such liquid into the engine in winter, when the temperature drops to a maximum of -40 degrees, the starter can easily cope with cranking. The viscosity is not very high, and even low temperature regime will not interfere with starting the engine. Knowing which oil to use at different times will help you maintain optimal performance. power unit. But Niva has its own pitfalls regarding the lubricant composition. must be seasonal.

After all, another common mistake is that popular all-season compounds are poured into 21214 engines. Car owners justify this by their efficiency. But in fact, when starting an engine, serious problems often arise due to such liquids.

Avoid semi-synthetic oils. Yes, such mixtures can be expensive and have similar characteristics to synthetics. But even the high price and identical labels on the packaging do not allow semi-synthetics to obtain the same properties that synthetic oils have.

Manufacturers

In terms of choosing manufacturers, each Niva 21214 owner decides for himself how expensive or budget oil to use. The market has formed its own leaders, who offer high-quality compounds for almost any car, including the all-wheel drive SUV we are considering today. But their only problem may be high price. If there is such an opportunity, then the Niva 21214 engine should be filled with oils from the following manufacturers:

• Shell;
• Mobil;
• Xado;
• Lukoil.

If you want to use something more affordable, but without compromising on quality and performance lubricating fluids for the engine, then pay attention to the following manufacturers:

• Castrol;
• Valvoline;
• Kixx.

They are recommended by many experts because they work well in practice. The main thing is to choose those compositions for Niva 21214 that meet the physical and chemical specifications necessary for its power unit.

Replacement instructions

It would be logical to find out the VAZ Niva 21214 and how much motor fluid is required to purchase. If we talk about the volume of liquid being filled, then for the Niva engine it is 3.75 liters. The actual volume of oil in the engine is usually less than that indicated in the vehicle's data sheet. This is due to the fact that when draining the waste, some of the oil still remains in the system. It is almost impossible to clean the engine 100% on your own. You should take plenty of oil, but not much. Better take a canister high-quality lubricant for 5 l. This will allow you to fill the full volume into the crankcase, plus periodically add it as the level changes.

Scheduled oil changes in Chevy Niva and VAZ Niva 21214 engines are performed at approximately the same frequency. The procedure itself is standard and includes compliance with certain general rules and security measures.

To work, you will need to collect some materials and tools. This list includes:

• fresh motor oil in the right quantity;
• an empty container where the waste will be drained;
• funnel for filling;
• fuel filter;
• 12mm hex or 17mm wrench;
• puller for the oil filter (you can do without it);
• inspection hole;
• rags;
• lighting;
• overalls (gloves, closed shoes, thick clothing).

If you have everything ready, you can start working. Be sure to follow the instructions step by step, do not rush and do not try to unscrew or tighten anything by applying great force. Otherwise, you risk breaking some parts, which will lead to more expensive repairs. We begin by simultaneously changing the filter.

1. Place the car on inspection hole to have easy access to the bottom where the oil pan is located. The engine should be warmed up first so that the oil acquires a more liquid structure and can easily drain from the sump.
2. If you warmed up the engine at idle, wait a few minutes so that all the liquid drains down. In the engine compartment you can still unscrew filler plug. This will allow the oil to come out from below faster.
   
3. Unscrew carefully drain plug. It happens different types, therefore, a hexagon or wrench is useful for dismantling it. Before you begin to unscrew the cap, place an empty container under it. Unscrew completely and let the oil drain. This will take about 10 – 15 minutes. Therefore, at the same time, work on the oil filter.
   
4. If the oil comes out very dirty, then a lot of debris, chips and dirt will remain in the system. In this condition, it is recommended to flush the engine. To do this, use special additives, flushing mixtures or fresh oil.
5. There are additives that you simply add to the filler neck while the old grease is still there, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Then they are jammed and everything is removed from the pan.
6. Option with flushing oil or regular fresh motor oil looks different. First, the old fluid is drained, then the drain plug is closed, fresh oil is added, the engine is turned on and idle speed it works for 5 – 10 minutes. Now the pan plug is unscrewed again and drained. If the engine is heavily dirty, it is recommended to repeat the procedure 2–3 times. This takes a lot of oil, but it gives the engine new life.
   
7. Only after complete rinsing old filter dismantled and a new one installed in its place. The filter is unscrewed with a puller, manually or with an improvised tool. The puller is the most convenient, but is not always available to the car owner. Be careful not to damage adjacent pipes and wiring. For safety reasons, it is better to remove the negative terminal from the battery.
   
8. Clean the holes for the drain plug and the filter if there is dirt there. Otherwise, they may get into the fresh motor fluid.
9. Before reinstallation, check the plug gasket and replace it if necessary. The filter seal is lubricated with oil, and engine fluid is filled to 50% of the volume of the new filter. Now you can install them in place.
10. Make sure that the filter and plug are firmly in place and that there are no leaks through them.
11. Let's move on to engine compartment, where using a funnel we pour in through the filler neck fresh composition. Fill in about 3.5 liters first, since some of the oil remains in the system. Close the lid, start the engine at Idling within 2 – 3 minutes.
12. Turn off the engine and let the oil drain. Take the dipstick and check the level. A trace of the oil film should remain between the “Min” and “Max” marks. If the level is closer to the minimum value, open the lid again, add a little more lubricant and repeat the procedure.
    

When you start the car, the oil pressure light will come on. It's not scary, it always happens. The indicator will go out after a few seconds. Over the next few days, monitor how your Niva behaves. Check under the car for traces of fresh oil. Leaks may occur due to poor installed filter or drain plug. Tighten the connections and recheck the level.

Owners of the VAZ Niva 21214 car are advised to periodically monitor the oil level, add it as needed and react promptly if the liquid suddenly changes color, becomes cloudy, its consumption increases or the engine overheats. Signs like these indicate more than just a leak. There is a possibility that you chose the wrong oil or there are problems with the engine that cannot be eliminated by simply replacing consumables. You will need to seek qualified help.

FILLING CAPACITIES

Refillable system	Volume, l
Fuel tank(including reserve)	42 (65*)
Engine cooling system (including interior heating system)	10,7
Engine lubrication system (including oil filter)	3,75
Gearbox housing	1,6
Rear axle housing	1,3
Steering gear housing	0,18
Transfer case housing	0,79
Front axle housing	1,15
Hydraulic clutch system	0,2
Hydraulic brake system	0,535
Windshield and headlight washer reservoir	2,8
Washer reservoir rear window	2,0
Power steering reservoir	1,7

* For VAZ-2131 cars and its modifications.

Quantity, l

Refueling or lubrication point	Name of materials
Fuel tank		Motor gasoline with octane number 91–93, 95*
Engine cooling system including interior heating system		Coolant with a freezing point no higher than –40°C
Engine lubrication system, including oil filter, at ambient temperature:		Motor oils (with API quality level: SG, SH, SJ)
from –20° to +45°С
from –25° to +35°С
from –25° to +45°С
from –30° to +35°С
from –30° to +45°С
Gearbox housing		Gear oils with quality level according to API GL-5 and viscosity 75W-90
Transfer case housing
Front axle housing
Rear axle housing
Steering gear housing		Gear oil 75W-90
Hydraulic clutch release system Hydraulic brake system	0,2 0,515	Brake fluid DOT-3, -4
Windshield washer reservoir Tailgate glass washer reservoir		A mixture of water and windshield washer fluid
Starter drive drive ring
Front wheel bearings		Litol-24 lubricant or imported analogues
Cardan joint cross bearings		Lubricant Fiol-2U, No. 158 or imported analogues
Front propeller shaft spline		Lubricant Fiol-1, CV joint-4 or imported analogues
Door limiters		Grease Shrus-4
Seat moving slides
Tie rod joints and front suspension ball pins		ShRB-4 lubricant or imported analogues
Battery leads and terminals, door keyholes		Automatic lubricant VTV-1 in aerosol packaging, CIATIM-201, -221, Litol-24 or imported analogues
Door locks		Fiol-1 lubricant or imported analogues
Pressure regulator rear brakes		Lubricant DT-1 or imported analogues

*For vehicles with fuel injection system equipped with an exhaust gas converter

Fuels and lubricants approved and recommended for
operation of the LADA 4x4 vehicle and its modifications

AUTOMOTIVE GASOLINES

Notes:

1. To ensure engine starting and vehicle operation at low negative ambient temperatures, it is necessary to use gasoline of the appropriate volatility classes depending on the climatic region. Requirements for volatility classes and seasonal use gasolines for different regions Russian Federation are set out in the relevant fuel standards for internal combustion engines.

2. The use of gasoline with organometallic antiknock agents based on lead, iron, manganese and other metals is not allowed.

3. The use of multifunctional additives is allowed to protect fuel supply and engine parts from corrosion, deposits and carbon deposits. Such additives must be added to commercial gasoline by the gasoline manufacturer.

Independent addition of secondary additives by the car owner is not allowed.

Motor oils

Oil brand	SAE viscosity grade	Group		Manufacturer	Regulatory document
		AAI	AP1
LUKOIL LUX	5W-30, 5W-40 10W-40,15W-40	B5/D3	SJ/CF		STO 00044434-003
LUKOIL LUX	0W-40, 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-50, 10W-30	B5/D3	SL/CF	LLC "Lukoil-Permnefteorg-sintez", Perm	STO 00044434-003
TNK SUPER	5W-30, 5W-40 10W-40	B5/D3	SJ/SL/CF		TU 0253-008-44918199
TNK MAGNUM	5W-30, 5W-40 10W-40,15W-40	B5/D3	SJ/SL/CF		TU 0253-025-44918199
ROSNEFT MAXIMUM	5W-40, 10W-40	B5/D3	SL/CF		TU 0253-063-48120848
ROSNEFT OPTIMUM	10W-30, 10W-40 15W-40	B5/D3	SJ/CF	OJSC "Novokuibyshevsk Oil and Additives Plant", Novokuibyshevsk	TU 0253-062-48120848
ROSNEFT MAXIMUM	5W-40, 10W-40	B5/D3	SL/CF		TU 0253-391-05742746
ROSNEFT OPTIMUM	10W-30, 10W-40 15W-40	B5/D3	SJ/CF	OJSC "Angarsk Petrochemical Company", Angarsk	TU 0253-389-05742746
ROSNEFT PREMIUM	0W-40, 5W-40 5W-40	B5/D3	SJ/CF SL/CF SM/CF	OJSC "Angarsk Petrochemical Company", Angarsk	TU 0253-390-05742746

Continuation of the table. 2

Oil brand	SAE viscosity grade	Group		Manufacturer	Regulatory document
		AAI	API
EXTRA 1 EXTRA 5 EXTRA 7	5W-30 15W-40 20W-50	B5/D3	SJ/CF	OJSC "Omsk Oil Refinery", Omsk	TU 38.301-19-137
EXTRA	5W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40	B5/D3	SL/CF	OJSC "Omsk Oil Refinery", Omsk	TU 38.301-19-137
ESSO ULTRA	10W-40	B5/D3	SJ/SL/CF	Exxon-Mobil, Germany
GTTURBO SM	10W-40	B5	S.M.	Hanval INC, Korea
LIQUI MOLY OPTIMAL	10W-40	B5/D3	SL/CF	Liqui Moly GmbH, Germany
MOBIL 1 MOBIL SYNT S MOBIL SUPER S	0W-40, 5W-50 5W-40 10W-40	B5/D3	SJ/SL SM/CF SJ/SL/CF	Exxon-Mobil, Germany
MOBIL 1 ESP FORMULA	5W-30	B6/D3	SJ/SL SM/CF
RAVENOL HPS RAVENOL VSI RAVENOL LLO RAVENOL TSI RAVENOL Turbo-C HD-C	5W-30 5W-40 10W-40 10W-40 15W-40	B5/D3	SL/CF SL/CF SL/CF SL/CF SJ/CF	Ravensberger Schmirstoffvertrieb GmbH, Germany
SHELL HELIX: PLUS PLUS EXTRA ULTRA	10W-40 5W-40 5W-40	B5/D3	SL/CF	SHELL EAST EUROPE Co, UK, Finland
ZIC A PLUS	5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40	B5	SL	SK CORPORATION, Korea

Table 3

Minimum engine cold start temperature, 0C	Viscosity grade according to SAE J 300	Maximum ambient temperature, 0C
below -35	0W-30	25
below -35	0W-40	30
-30	5W-30	25
-30	5W-40	35
-25	10W-30	25
-25	10W-40	35
-20	15W-40	45
-15	20W-40	45

Transmission oils for use in gearboxes, transfer cases, drive axles and steering gears

Table 4

Oil brand	SAE viscosity grade	API Group	Manufacturer	Regulatory document
LUKOIL TM 5	75W-90 80W-90 85W-90		OJSC "Lukoil-Volgogradnefte-pererabotka", Volgograd LLC "Lukoil-Permnefteorgsintez", Perm	STO 00044434-009 TU 0253-044-00148599
NOVOIL SUPERT				TU 38.301-04-13
ROSNEFT KINETIC	75W-90, 80W-90 85W-90		OJSC "Angarsk Petrochemical Company", Angarsk	TU 0253-394-05742746
ROSNEFT KINETIC			OJSC "Novokuibyshevsk Oil and Additives Plant", Novokuibyshevsk	TU 0253-030-48120848
SUPER T-2 SUPER T-3			OJSC "Omsk Oil Refinery", Omsk	TU 38.301-19-62
TNK TRANS GIPOID			TNK LLC lubricants", Ryazan	TU 38.301-41-196
TNK TRANS GIPOID SUPER			TNK Lubricants LLC, Ryazan	TU 0253-014-44918199
			Shell East Europe Co, UK

Note. Oil change period in accordance with service book car.

Table 5

Attention
Do not use oil additives or other means to improve the performance of the engine, its systems or vehicle transmission units.

Modern high-performance motor and transmission oils are recommended for vehicle operation. Therefore, there is no need to use additional additives, and in certain cases this can lead to damage to the engine or transmission units that are not covered by the AVTOVAZ OJSC warranty.

Cooling liquids

Liquid brand	Manufacturer	Regulatory document
Antifreeze-TS Felix		TU 2422-006-36732629
Cool Stream Standard		TU 2422-002-13331543
Cool Stream Premium	JSC "Technoform", Klimovsk, Moscow region.	TU 2422-001-13331543
ANTIFREEZE SINTEC	CJSC "Obninskorgsintez", Obninsk	TU 2422-047-51140047
	LLC "TC Tosol-Sintez", Dzerzhinsk	TU 2422-068-36732629
ANTIFREEZE (antifreeze) LONGLIFE	CJSC "Dolfin Industry", Pushkino	TU 2422-163-04001396

Note: Service life and replacement of antifreeze in accordance with the vehicle service book. Mixing coolants different brands not allowed.

AIR CONDITIONING LIQUID

The air conditioner is filled with ozone-safe freon R 134 “A”
Quantity - 0.4 kg

The air conditioning system uses ATMOSGU10 oil.

FLUID FOR SHOCK ABSORBERS

Liquid GRZh-12
Front shock absorber - 0.12 l
Rear shock absorber- 0.195 l.

Brake fluids

Table 7

Note. Service life and replacement brake fluids in accordance with the vehicle service book, but not more than three years.

Glass washing and special fluids

Liquid brand	Manufacturer	Regulatory document
GLASS WASHING LIQUIDS
	LLC "ASD", Tolyatti	TU 2421-001-55894651
	LLC "Multipharma-Samara", Samara	TU 2384-170-00151727
	NPP "Makromer", Vladimir	TU 2451-007-10488057
	CJSC "JSC ASPECT", Moscow	TU 2384-011-41974889
SPECIAL LIQUIDS
	MOPZ VNII NP, Moscow
LUKOIL AJ	LLC "Lukoil VNP", Volgograd	TU 0253-025-00148599
	f. "VARYA", city Nizhny Novgorod	TU 0253-048-05767924
Pentosin Hydraulic Fluid CHS 11S	f. Pentosin, Germany	TTM 1.97.0964

Greases

Lubricant brand	Manufacturer	Regulatory document
Vaseline technical VTV-1		TU 38.301-40-21
Vaseline technical ONMZ VTV-1		TU 0255-195-05767887
Lubricant AZMOL GRAPHITOL	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk	TU U 23.2-00152365-178
LIMOL lubricant	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk	TU 38.301-48-54
LITA grease	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk	TU 38.101-1308
LITOL-24 lubricant	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk
Grease AZMOL LSC-15	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk	TU U 23.2-00152365-180
UNIROL-1 grease	JSC "Rikos", Rostov-on-Don	TU 38.301-40-23
Grease UNIOL-2M/1	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk
Grease AZMOL FIOL-1	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk	TU U 23.2-00152365-173
Grease AZMOL ShRB-4	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk	TU U 23.2-00152365-172
Lubricant AZMOL SHRUS-4	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk	TU U 23.2-00152365-182
CV joint grease-4M	JSC " Perm plant lubricants and coolant", Perm	TU 38.401-58-128
Ortol Sh lubricant	JSC "Neftemaslozavod", Orenburg	TU 0254-001-05767887
Grease CIATIM-201	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk, OJSC "Rikos", Rostov-on-Don, LLC NPF "RUSMA", St. Petersburg, OJSC "Neftemaslozavod", Orenburg
Grease CIATIM-221	OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk, OJSC "Rikos", Rostov-on-Don, LLC NPF "RUSMA", St. Petersburg

Continuation of the table. 9

Lubricant brand		Manufacturer	Regulatory document
Solid lubricant Molybdol M3		CJSC "Technology", St. Petersburg
Lubricating graphite “P”		OJSC "Azmol", Berdyansk
Ditor lubricant		JSC "Rikos", Rostov-on-Don	TU 0254-007-05766706
CASTROL S-058 grease		Company "Castrol", Germany
MOLYKOTE X-106 grease		Daw Corning, USA	TTM 1.97.0115
Renolit JP 1619 grease		Fusch Company, Germany	TTM 1.97.0800
Lubricant Lucas PFG-111		Lucas TRW, Germany	TTM 1.97.0733
Flushing fluids for the engine lubrication system Table 10
Liquid brand	Manufacturer		Regulatory document
AUTO-WASHING	OJSC Lukoil-Nizhegorodnefteorgsintez, Kstovo, LLC Lukoil-Permnefteorgsintez, Perm		STO 00044434-0122
FLUSHING OIL	OJSC Novo-Ufa Oil Refinery, Ufa		TU 0253-019-05766528
ROSNEFT EXPRESS	OAO Angarsk Petrochemical Company, Angarsk		TU 0253-392-05742746
MP SYNTHETIC MP CLASSIC	OJSC "Omsk Oil Refinery", Omsk		STO 84035624-005

Note. Flushing liquids are used for maintenance in accordance with the service book when replacing the working engine oil with fresh one.

Materials for anti-corrosion treatment of the body

Fluid for refilling the hydraulic steering system

Table 12

List of products containing precious metals in LADA 4x4 cars

Product number	product name	Location of precious metals	Weight in grams
			gold	silver	palladium
2115-3801010	Instrument cluster	In semiconductors	0,000263	0,016414
2105-3747010-03	Turn signal switch and alarm		0,0180561	0,0208012	0,103
2105-3709310/-01	Three lever switch	Coating		0,1664
2101-3704010-11	Ignition switch	In contacts		0,14078
2105-3710010-03/-04	Hazard switch	In contacts		0,107
21213-3709607	Heated rear window switch	In contacts		0,11517
2113-3709609-10	Rear fog lamp switch	In contacts		0,115169
2104-3709612	Rear window wiper and washer switch	In contacts		0,403093
2107-3709608-01	Heater switch	In contacts		0,265997
21045-3709280	Fuel heating switch	In contacts		0,170288
2108-3720010-10/-11/-12	Brake light switch	In contacts		0,1681
	Generator voltage regulator	In semiconductors	0,0534
2106-3828110	Water temperature indicator sensor	In contacts		0,0161637
2105-3747010-02/03	Relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights	Gold in semiconductors, silver in contacts	0,00021	0,0731
2105-3747210-12	Switching relay high beam headlights	In contacts		0,055
2105-37470-1010-12	Low beam relay	In contacts		0,055
2105-3747210-02	Headlight wiper relay	In contacts		0,137
2114-3747610	Rear fog light relay	Gold in semiconductors, silver in contacts	0,000998	0,034935

May 10, 2017

Not so much time has passed since I bought a brand new Niva, as the number on electronic odometer approached 1000 km. Many car enthusiasts know that on any new car, it is at this mark that an oil change is necessary in all components on the Niva 21214. In the case of the Niva, due to its difficult off-road “breed,” there will be quite a few such units. New oil must be poured into the following units:

1. engine;
2. gearbox (gearbox);
3. transfer case (manual transmission);
4. front axle;
5. rear axle;

A scheduled oil change at this mark is mandatory for a number of reasons: it is unknown how long, how and where the car was stored in the warehouse before purchase and what condition the oil is in now; during break-in new car all the details are “grinding in”, it happens heavy wear and production, which in turn affects the operating properties of the oil, and also sometimes contributes to the formation of metal shavings that get into the oil, which is completely undesirable; Finally, this is just a recommendation from the manufacturer. After changing the oil, you will already know what is in your car and thereby control its condition.

Choosing the right oil

So, we have sorted out the warranty, but there is no desire to go to the service center for an oil change either. If your hands grow where they should and there are no problems with your head, then there is nothing complicated in the oil change procedure. It is much more difficult to choose the right oil without running into a fake and making a mistake with the oil class, viscosity and other parameters.
Although for the Niva the issue is not so terrible and the loads on the chassis and engine will not be prohibitive due to the design (compared to some BMW), the attitude towards servicing the mechanisms will still directly affect the durability, performance and ride quality. It’s trivial that if we buy counterfeit oil, we risk getting caught major renovation engine or at least seriously “damage its health.” This is where the time comes to understand all the intricacies of choice. suitable oil once and for all, as will be written below.

In general, this topic is so voluminous and in a sense inexhaustible that one could write a huge treatise without ever getting to the bottom of it. But let's try to limit ourselves to the main points. The main thing to remember is that in this case we are talking about choosing oil specifically for Niva, so for others car brands the advice will not be entirely universal, although in many ways the meaning is the same.

Before choosing oil, let's familiarize ourselves with filling volumes for all nodes in Niva where it needs to be replaced:

• Engine 3.75 liters;
• Gearbox (Gearbox) 1.6 liters;
• Transfer case (manual transmission) 0.75 liters;
• Front axle 1.15 liters;
• Rear axle 1.3 liters;

Based on these figures, we will buy oil with a small reserve, about 1 liter, so that we have some left over for topping up and for unforeseen cases. There is no point in buying more, since it is unlikely to be needed and will simply be wasted money. Thus, we need 5 liters of oil for the engine, and approximately 6 liters for the entire transmission.

Let's move on. If someone doesn’t know, then oil can be two types: motor And transmission. This will be a fundamental point when choosing oil in the store; under no circumstances should you confuse the types of oil, because they have different properties, which is critical in our case.
Motor oil also comes in two types - for gasoline or diesel units; in the case of the Niva, I think it’s clear that we are talking only about gasoline. Here is a set of basic criteria by which you can start your search required oil on the shelf of a car store. Since oil can be imported, it is not always intuitively clear what is what, if you go by the inscriptions on the label. Therefore, try to avoid the words “diesel” on the oil label and study all the information as carefully as possible.

This is where the trouble with choosing oil is just beginning. Now let's figure out the required oil viscosity. The jar/packaging usually contains two numbers that reveal the essence of these parameters. Usually this figure looks something like this: “10-w40” or various variations. Why do we need to know these values, what they are responsible for and what they influence? Oil viscosity- one of the most important characteristics oil, it essentially tells us the ambient temperature range (not operating temperature!) at which the oil “works” or retains its properties.
In other words, these numbers tell us at what minimum-low temperature the oil begins to thicken too much, and at what maximum-high temperature it begins to thin out excessively (beyond the operating limits in each case). For normal operation and long-term safety of all components, critical transformations should not occur with the oil, and the viscosity should be kept at an average level. This same parameter directly affects the oil pressure in the system and its timely pumping by the pump to all parts of the engine. It is calculated solely based on operating conditions, oil change intervals, etc. If you actively use your car in winter and summer, and change the oil before the winter/summer season change, then it is advisable to fill in oil with the first index lower for the winter, and for the summer, accordingly, choose oil so that the second index is higher. Based on this, it becomes clear that the first digit in the formula “10-w40” is responsible for maintaining the operating properties of the oil at low (subzero) temperatures, and the second digit is responsible for performance at high temperatures. But not everything is so simple and unambiguous.
The weather is capricious and often changeable; often there are no severe frosts in winter (of course, it depends on the region), and summer does not meet last years extreme heat. Therefore, it is stupid to chase extreme values ​​in the viscosity index; just select universal oil with an average temperature range. In this sense, for winter with frosts not lower than minus 25 and for summer heat with a temperature not higher than “plus 30” optimal choice There will be oil with a viscosity of "10-w40". It is the most common and often found in stores and is ideal for the operating conditions of the Niva. Of course, in each specific case this issue is individual, and if you operate the car in the harsh conditions of Siberian frosts or the scorching African sun, then you must choose the viscosity in strict accordance with climatic conditions. The table below lists the most common oil viscosity values ​​in relation to temperature conditions:

The difficulties of choice do not end there. Having decided on the viscosity, it is worth taking into account the main type of oil, there are three of them: mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic. What are the differences between different types of oils? In general, the difference is quite clear and understandable: mineral motor oil (as the name suggests) is made from natural petroleum products (oil fractions of oil purified from impurities), while synthetics are made exclusively chemically from artificial substances (chemically synthesized homogeneous organic compounds). Based on the above, semi-synthetic oil is a mixture of mineral and synthetic in the required proportion (usually 50/50, although sometimes mineral predominates) to provide the necessary performance properties.
It would seem, what is the difference and what does this or that composition give? As in any field, each type of oil has its own advantages and disadvantages. Initially, when the automotive industry was just beginning to develop, only mineral oils were in use due to their availability and low cost of production. But with the constant improvement of engines, the requirements for oils and the preservation of their properties in different temperature ranges and operating conditions also grew. This was the impetus for the emergence of synthetic oil, which better retains all its performance characteristics, operates in a wider temperature range, and is also characterized by significantly greater durability during operation and excellent energy-saving properties. The main significant advantage of artificial synthetic oil is its chemical stability, or in other words: during operation, it practically does not change its properties and thus does not lose its workable state, does not turn into another substance/substance.

However, in practice, it is not always advisable to use expensive synthetic oil, especially for obsolete engines that are not so demanding in terms of temperature ranges and do not operate at the limit of their capabilities at crazy speeds. This is just a clear example of a Niva car with an engine developed in the 60s of the last century. Moreover, in some cases, purely synthetic oil can cause harm, because due to its more liquid consistency, high fluidity and penetrating ability, as well as its unique molecular composition, it is more demanding on the quality of rubber engine seals, with which things are very bad on Niva. As a result, it turns out that synthetic oil is certainly good in all respects; one can even say that it is in some sense ahead of its time and, if you do not run into a fake, it is much more likely to protect the engine in a wide variety of operating conditions.
But for Niva owners, this oil (just like its cosmic properties) is generally useless and will be rather unjustified and at the same time a risky investment. Risky because even for a new car, there is a high probability that if you fill it with synthetics, the Niva’s seals will leak in a few days or weeks (at best), and this is not very good and threatens to replace these same seals along with disassembling the engine. And useless this oil It will be because the Niva engine, in general, does not really need the exorbitant supply of performance properties that synthetics have; even the most mediocre ones will be enough. Thus, the most reasonable and optimal choice for the Niva engine would be semi-synthetic oil, which has balanced/average viscosity characteristics and high-quality additives, but is almost guaranteed to save the car owner from an annoying leak. True, semi-synthetic oil is only relevant for new and fresh cars, but if it is very worn out and “tired”, then the only choice remains mineral oil. Again, the exception will be cases if the machine is operated in harsh conditions external environment and at extreme temperatures - in these cases there are no alternatives synthetic oils simply no.

We figured out the types of oil and realized that our wise choice for Niva in most cases is semi-synthetic. Let's go further, for those who are completely confused (although for the owner of a Niva this is generally not very important), cans of oil often contain quite valuable information that will tell you about the compliance of a particular oil with standards unified system API classifications(American Petroleum Institute). This information is usually written in the smallest font on the oil packaging, and sometimes is not indicated at all. But in fact, as usually happens, this text is the most valuable for the consumer and will tell you whether the oil belongs to a certain type, based on the existing classification. Thanks to this, we can very accurately select oil to suit our specific conditions and mechanisms, and also avoid overpaying for unnecessary marketing by choosing the product wisely. The international API classification has been developing since 1969 to this day; almost all oils are marked according to this system, which is very convenient, because The classification includes only three classes:

• S (Service)- consists of quality categories of motor oils for gasoline engines, going in chronological order.
• C (Commercial)- consists of categories of quality and purpose of oils for diesel engines, going in chronological order.
• EC (Energy Conserving)- energy-saving oils - a new range of high-quality oils, consisting of low-viscosity, easy-flowing oils that reduce fuel consumption according to the results of tests on gasoline engines.

Universal oils suitable for both gasoline and diesel engines are indicated by two symbols of the corresponding categories: the first symbol is the main one, and the second indicates the possibility of using this oil for another type of engine, for example API SM/CF.

If you really understand this classification and completely calm your nerves, then on the label you need to look for class S (Service) for gasoline engines. This entry should look something like this: API SM. If we decipher for clarity, it turns out that according to the classification API oil belongs to the "S" class for gasoline engines and belongs to the "M" quality category. Quality categories according to the API system were entered with letter values ​​in ascending order of the English alphabet, starting with the letter “A”. Since the introduction of the API classification, many classes have already become hopelessly outdated; for example, class “A” was in use back in the 60s of the last century. Since that moment, the requirements for oil and its properties have increased significantly, and obsolete classes have been taken out of circulation. There are currently three classes:

• S.J.- oils of this category are intended for all currently used gasoline engines and completely replace oils of all previously existing categories in older engine models. Maximum level of performance properties (since 1996).
• SL- oils in this category have stable energy-saving properties, reduced volatility, and extended replacement intervals (since 2001).
• S.M.- oils of this category are characterized by increased requirements for lubricants regarding resistance to oxidation, protection against deposits, wear (since 2004)

Addiction to advertising or how not to overpay for beautiful words

Modern people are often highly dependent on surrounding opinions; they are literally accustomed to blindly walking on a short marketing leash and choosing a product without looking, without analyzing and clarifying the principles of operation of the same oil and the differences between one and the other. Choosing machine oil, they automatically fall into a tight trap of incorrect public opinion, based literally on air and on “brainwashing” by advertising. The brands on everyone's lips are: Mobil1, Shell, Castrol and others. On forums and in conversations, people also advise choosing oil from these same brands, supposedly the most popular, in demand, and therefore “type” of quality. But all this is complete nonsense, because... Based on such an opinion, not only is reality ignored, but there is also an almost guaranteed chance of greatly overpaying and running into a fake that will kill your engine or transmission.

To begin with, the reality is that almost all the oil from the existing variety of brands is manufactured in two or three factories, while the rest of the brands are simply THEY BUY THE SAME OIL FROM THIS SAME PLANT and sell it under their own label, with their own advertising campaign and at their own price. All “magical” properties and top-secret technologies in most cases are just a bunch of empty words to attract “adherents” to the bait. Then these people, without fully realizing it themselves, will passively promote the product and convince others that this oil is supposedly the best! And why? There will be no answer to this question, because... There is simply no deep understanding of the issue.

In order not to depend on bad advertising and beautiful pictures, it is worth understanding and understanding the only truth and stop chasing a meaningless name, and choose oil in a similar way to choosing food products, namely by composition. And here comes the paradox - the base of any oil and the required amount of additives to ensure the required properties of the oil are regulated by standards (for example, the same API). And because Almost any oil is standardized, which automatically means that almost all of it is basically the same! Of course, individual manufacturers can add some additives or technological solutions of their own, but they will not go beyond the basis of the standard (and they simply cannot). But it is precisely this basis that ensures the proper operation of the oil, which is expected by the consumer, and mainly by the car engine.

So it turns out that if you approach the issue sensibly and consciously, then you can and should buy any oil, not paying attention to the brand, but focusing on normal and truly important criteria for any person: low cost, compliance with standards (suitable specifically for your car and its engine) and a low probability of running into counterfeit products.

How to protect yourself from buying fake oil

Before we actually change the oil in all components on the 21214th field, a crucial stage awaits when choosing an oil, on which almost 80% of a successful purchase depends. Why is it scary to run into a fake? The point is quite obvious, since we cannot know the specific composition fake oil and its properties. It may happen that this strange liquid will not have lubricating properties at all and, of course, will quickly damage the engine or transmission.

Well, now, having understood the seriousness of the situation with counterfeits, the only thing left is not to buy such oil. Easier said than done. If previously a powerful tool for fighting counterfeits was simply large retail stores of auto parts, where it seemed somehow safe and trusting to buy goods (as many are accustomed to thinking), now even this does not save. Because the stores themselves don’t know what they sell. What remains for a buyer trying to protect himself from buying a counterfeit? There are two more or less guaranteed methods that will help, if not eliminate the possibility of fake oil, then at least reduce it to reasonable minimum. Here they are:

Thus, in order to protect yourself as much as possible from counterfeiting, it is enough to be “not like everyone else” (however, this approach can bring “benefits” in everyday life). By choosing an oil that is not popular and that no one looks at, we choose a deliberately winning strategy that saves us from counterfeits and overpayments, since none of the scammers will simply bother with a brand that is not very popular in terms of sales volume, because this does not automatically promise profit for them. Remembering these simple rules You can forever save yourself from headaches and worries about the safety of your car’s components, including in intensive/maximum load modes.

A few words about choosing an oil filter for a field

What does an engine oil filter do and why is it needed? Its main task, as the name suggests, is to filter/clean all the oil poured into the engine, passing the entire volume through itself and trapping particles of dirt and other deposits, preventing them from circulating along with the oil in the working areas. A reasonable question: how does dirt get into the engine and where can it appear in the oil, if theoretically the entire system is sealed? Let's start with the fact that although in theory the engine is completely isolated from external influences, in reality and practice such an ideal cannot be achieved. In fact, the engine “breathes”, and many of its connections are far from tight and some small percentage of dirt gets inside, even at least when the oil filler neck is unscrewed. The second moment of the formation of unwanted impurities occurs during direct operation, inside the engine itself (with the transmission everything is a little simpler, but also probable). When the engine operates under prolonged intense load, such work may result in the formation of carbon deposits or metal shavings due to the contact of rubbing metal parts.
All this crap, of course, ends up in the oil “circulation” cycle, but here the same oil filter comes to our aid. It traps any impurities, leaving all the dirt on the filter element. Unfortunately, the described process is, as always, idealized and the filter’s work is not so high-quality, but there is no point in going too far into the weeds. We can only say that the design of most modern oil filters has one significant flaw due to which the dirt does not have time to linger during the first cold start of the car. In this regard, there are still hard-to-find alternatives, for example, experimental filters from the Russian manufacturer Basalt, where this problem is completely solved due to a redesigned design. And everything would be fine, but these filters retail sales I could not find a large chain of auto parts stores. They are currently only available to order via the Internet, which is also a good option.

If we ignore these problems and simply choose a traditional oil filter for our beloved Nivka, then there are some nuances here too. The main difference between many modern filter elements is the quality of its main working material, and of course the size of the filter itself. All this affects final cost, and if it’s more or less clear about quality, then what does size affect? The size allows for more efficient oil cleaning, allowing more dirt to be retained inside. But for new modifications of Niv, large and voluminous oil filters should be selected with caution.
First you need to make sure that the filter physically fits into place. To do this, just visually look under the hood, find the installed oil filter and evaluate the remaining free space where it is installed. The fact is that on models with an air conditioning option (like mine) and probably with ABS (anti-lock braking braking system) only the smallest filter size physically fits. If you buy a larger filter, it will not fit into its rightful place, resting against the air conditioning compressor block. Yes, along with good and long-awaited technological implementations come inevitable problems. About my adventure with the filter bigger size I'll write below.

The procedure for changing the oil on Niva 21214-M on your own

By this time, we should have purchased what is necessary for replacement, namely: the oil itself (5 liters of engine oil and 6 liters of transmission oil), a new oil filter. For the rest, of course, you will need a set of wrenches (I use open-end and socket wrenches, but many people find it more convenient to work with “heads” with a ratchet), as well as a prepared place and a container for draining the used oil (considering the volume, quite a big one, or many small ones). Containers for drainage are very important, because... Motor oil can be very polluting environment and for this reason it is necessary to properly dispose of it or find another use (for example, for preserving boards). The process of changing the oil itself is extremely simple and does not contain any pitfalls, except that due to inexperience or due to excessive care it can take a lot of time. It took me about 3 hours to change the oil “in a circle”, but the result remains for a long time, and most importantly, confidence in it, since the work was done with my own hands, which in itself is pleasant and priceless, because the confidence in the result will be 100%, as well as the understanding that the machine components are well protected. In addition to the listed tools, you will need some kind of clever device for changing the oil in the transmission - a special syringe. There are a great many modifications and variants of the latter, but the essence and principle of operation is the same. At prices: from 200 to 1,500 rubles for the most sophisticated syringe, although the wisest thing, of course, is to choose golden mean. For example, I bought a medium-sized syringe with glass flask for about 550 rubles. Although later I didn’t need it, because... At the dacha, I accidentally discovered my grandfather’s old syringe with air pressure blower technology, very convenient and practical in use. Why is a syringe so necessary and why can’t you do without it? The fact is that, unlike changing the oil in the engine (where everything is generally simple and clear without sophistication), the transmission is located at the very bottom, on the bottom of the car. And since no one has canceled physics, the filler necks are located in top point each transmission unit. So it turns out that without a special device it’s impossible to pour oil inside. A syringe with a flexible hose easily delivers oil “to the address” and will help fill it “to the brim”.

Now that we have everything we need, changing the oil in all components on the Niva 21214 is finally possible and we should begin this process. If you do this on the street, then it is wise to provide time in advance (at least 2-3 hours) and choose a nice day, and also not work at night. Next, I will describe my process for changing the oil; accordingly, everything can be done by analogy. To begin with, we lay a bedding on the ground (those who work in a pit, on a lift or overpass are luckier).

Changing the engine oil

We start with the engine and our task in each case will be to get to the drain hole. The engine is the most time-consuming and expensive part of the entire process due to the protective panels that have to be removed on the way to the coveted drain plug.
To make it easier and more efficient to drain the oil, it is useful to first “drive” the car and bring the oil to an operating temperature of 90 degrees, in this case it thins out considerably and flows out of the pan better (faster). We climb under the car and find the bolts that secure the shields. Here we will need keys for “10” and “13”.
It is more convenient to work with a ratchet. Carefully twist the bolts securing the shields (first the outer one, then the inner one), while simultaneously holding the protection with your hand at the end. So after some time we get to the engine sump with the coveted plug. On the way, I personally made an amazing discovery (yes, with the Niva you never cease to be surprised) - a fair amount of debris had accumulated on the shields, and rust was discovered underneath it! This is despite the fact that the car is new, it is not even six months old, and by that time I had only driven it 10 times! This is such a small shock.
Well, okay, but the dashboards now have factory sound-absorbing panels, at least something has changed at the factory, although it’s hard to say that the car ultimately became quieter than the “old” modification of the Niva. We clean the shields from dirt (a useful preventative procedure every time you change the oil. And here it is - the treasured plug with a hexagon. At this stage, we place a container for draining the oil somewhere under the plug and slowly unscrew it with an angled hex key, holding it by the tip.
In this case, when the oil pours out, the plug will remain on the key and will not fall into the container with oil. Well, when the plug is unscrewed, all that remains is to watch how the usually black and dirty oil is poured into the prepared container; the speed of this process will depend on how well the engine was warmed up before this procedure. When all the oil has been drained, you can wait another 5-10 minutes until the last drops begin to drain from the pan (here it is important that the machine stands on a flat horizontal surface, otherwise not all the oil will pour out of the pan, and this is critical).
After, when the leak has stopped, we wipe the threads of the hole and the drain plug with a clean, dry cloth, and immediately screw it back with sufficient (but not excessive) force to avoid tearing it off. It’s useful to do this right away so you don’t forget. Regarding tightening connections, there is a golden rule of “balance” - pull until significant resistance appears and it becomes very difficult to turn, then from this starting point, pull it two or three more times with manual force (only without levers or similar devices).

When the oil has been drained and the plug is screwed into its rightful place, let's proceed to replacing the oil filter. There is also nothing complicated in this procedure, especially if the replacement is carried out according to the regulations within the specified time frame, then the filter must be unscrewed by hand. In other cases, when unscrewing is difficult, you will need a special puller, or it will be enough to pierce the oil filter housing with a long slotted screwdriver to use it as a lever. In any of the options, turn the filter counterclockwise and take it out, now you can throw it away.
We replace it with a new one, purchased in advance. Before installation, it is useful to lubricate the inner O-ring with fresh motor oil in a circle, it’s convenient to do this with the tip of a screwdriver. This is done so that the filter fits as tightly as possible onto its seat"on the greased"
When installing, we also tighten it only by hand, we don’t need any tools. You just have to make sure that the filter is screwed on with considerable force!

Now everything is ready to pour new fresh oil into the engine. At this stage, it is important to remember just one nuance: you need to ensure that dirt, even the smallest particles, do not get into the oil path (as well as into the oil itself) - this will at least not be useful for the engine, and you should not rely on the operation of the oil filter , better once again just make sure the process is accurate. For convenience, a funnel will also help so as not to fill the entire top cover with oil and not get everything dirty, although this is a matter of personal convenience. To fill the oil: unscrew the engine oil filler neck and carefully, slowly and steadily fill it in a medium stream.
During the filling process, it is extremely important to monitor the level: first we pour out more than half of the canister (usually 4 or 5 liters), and then we pause the process and wait for at least 5 minutes (preferably 10). This is necessary so that the oil flows to the sump, although this time does not guarantee that all the oil will flow to the bottom of the engine, but it will increase the likelihood of this. Only after this does it make sense to check the level with a dipstick. Why is it important to control the level? It was not invented by chance and indicates that there is either too little oil or too much oil. Both cases are extremely undesirable and can damage the engine. The most dangerous is when there is less oil than needed, then the engine and its parts begin to experience oil starvation and operate on dry friction, which will ultimately lead to failure, because dry friction wear increases tenfold. But the situation is no less dangerous when there is more oil than needed. In this case, there can be various consequences, from mild to severe. In the simplest case, excess oil will end up in the wrong places, for example, filling the spark plugs or getting into the air duct. Fuel consumption also increases, because All moving engine components have to overcome the additional resistance of excess fluid. In worst cases, it can damage oil scraper rings or squeeze out the seals with excessive pressure, and this will inevitably lead to expensive repairs. Therefore, the most reasonable thing is to fill the oil once and correctly, according to the level, so that later you do not encounter various serious problems due to your frivolity. Correct level oil is clearly in the middle between the Min and Max marks (50% within these values). Anything higher will burn out and is just as undesirable; anything lower can also lead to oil starvation. Therefore, balance or the “golden mean principle” works well in relation to the oil change procedure. Now how to track the level during pouring? As mentioned above, after filling more than half of the canister (4 or 5 liters), wait a while and look at the dipstick - the oil should appear somewhere at the very bottom. Then again add some amount “by eye” and again control the level according to a similar scheme. Ultimately, in this way it will be possible to accurately add oil exactly to the middle between Min and Max, and calm down on this. Yes, it takes a lot of time, but the safety of the engine/heart of the car is more important to us, isn’t it?

After filling the oil to the required level, close the oil filler cap, do not forget to firmly insert the dipstick into place and check that everything under the engine is dry and there are no leaks. All that remains is to install the engine protection in the reverse order in its original place. This completes the procedure, and if it is done as described, then there is no doubt about the safety of the engine - everything will work like a clock.

Changing the transmission oil

There is no point in describing the oil change in each transmission unit, because... the process is similar and it will be enough to understand general principle. I started changing the oil in this order: gearbox, manual transmission, front axle, rear axle; However, the order can be arbitrary. So, as in the case of the engine, with each specific transmission unit you must first find drainer, unscrew it with a hex key, drain all the oil (also waiting the required time until the oil begins to flow drop by drop). The drain hole is always located at the very bottom of the unit we are working with, and the filler hole is always slightly higher (this is at least so as not to confuse anything). Drain plugs in Niva on hexagons. We unscrew it according to the principle already described - with an angled key so as not to get dirty and not drown the plug in the container with the drained oil.
Don’t forget to place the container and evaluate the oil for production, deposits, the presence of metal shavings and other dirt (if this is detected, it often signals problems). Then we wipe the plug and drain hole with a clean, dry cloth and screw it back securely. The most interesting and difficult thing remains - uploading a new one transmission oil. For this, we will finally need that same syringe (not to be confused with a medical one). We unscrew the oil filler neck, use a syringe to fill the entire volume of oil from the canister (depending on the design of the syringe), and inject everything through the filler hole, being careful not to spill. There are plastic syringes with large gaps or even glass ones with low-quality seals, they have an eternal problem - oil leakage from the above-mentioned cracks during operation, try to avoid such cheap products so that changing the oil does not turn into a dirty nightmare, but most importantly, into pointlessly wasted oil. In any case, no matter what the syringe is, it is necessary to fill in the oil until it begins to pour out of the filler hole.

And here comes a subtle point - although this is not necessary, it will be nice if the oil is at a level just above the filler hole. This is achieved in a somewhat strange way: towards the end, when the oil is about to begin to overflow, you need to prepare a syringe with oil and a plug in the other hand, then splash an impressive portion of oil inside and try to screw the plug right on top of the leaking oil. The technology isn't exactly nice and clean, but the transmission will thank you for it and stay intact for a long time. It is also useful to arrange such an “overflow” because the oil in the transmission does not change so often compared to the engine oil, which means it is better to treat the replacement with special care and scrupulousness. You can also add oil just above the plug in another, more expensive way - to slightly raise one side of the car with a jack (opposite to the plug), so that the distortion allows you to do this without unnecessary tricks (or park the car on a slope, the essence is the same). Everyone chooses a method for themselves, and it’s not entirely necessary, but it will help prolong life and protect transmission units in case of increased loads (for Niva this will be driving at maximum speed or constant load in off-road conditions at the limit of capabilities). There is also information that in some cases due to design feature Gearbox, when driving in 5th gear, the extreme position gears are left without oil and experience starvation, which leads to its failure. After filling the oil, tighten the plug and you're done!

Results of the procedure

We start the car with the feeling that it has been washed inside and transformed, which means it is now ready for new road, and in the case of the Niva, off-road tests of any complexity. After changing the oil, you can also feel a change in movement - sometimes the car starts to drive faster, smoother, becomes a little quieter at the same speed levels, but all this is only possible with really high-quality oil.
True, in my case no miracles happened, but the feeling of the safety of the nodes still does not leave for a long time after a "circular" replacement. A few days after changing the oil, you should run the car in, closely monitoring that no oil stains appear on the surface under the bottom while parked, as well as observing how the car turns at speed and, most importantly, monitoring the engine oil level on the dipstick daily. Finally, I would like to say: do not forget to change the oil in your car in a timely manner and approach the issue as seriously as possible, because not only the overall durability of your car depends on this, but also the preservation of the original performance characteristics.

Changing the engine oil on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 must be carried out according to the map technical inspection or twice a year, immediately before and after the winter operating season. In addition to changing the oil, the oil filter must also be replaced, which is changed every 10,000 t.km. If you plan to change the oil to new brand, then before pouring it into the engine crankcase, the system must be flushed; if the oil of the same brand is used, then there is no need to flush the system, except in extreme cases when there is obvious dirt or metal shavings in the oil. To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools, an empty container for draining waste, new oil and, if necessary, flushing. If you have everything you need, do the following:

• Drive the car onto a viewing hole, overpass or lifts.
• Removing protection engine compartment from dirt.

• Next, unscrew the engine crankcase drain plug and drain the oil into an empty container. Before draining the oil, it is recommended to warm up the engine; when the oil is hot, it drains better from the walls.
• Flush the system according to the instructions for use flushing fluid, which is available on the product packaging.

• Now that the oil has been drained, you can begin to remove the oil filter. For this purpose it is used special key. Unscrew it and remove the filter. Before installing a new one, it must be thoroughly soaked by pouring new oil into it. Then we lubricate the gasket and install the whole thing in its place.

• Open the filler cap of the cylinder head cover and fill in the oil.
• During the refilling process, we check the level with a dipstick. The normal oil level is when the mark is between maximum and minimum. Also, level control should be carried out a little later after filling, allowing the oil to drain from the walls.
• After completing the work, start the engine and let it run, then check the oil level again and add if necessary.

On this renovation work by completed.

In order for the engine of a VAZ 2121 to always be trouble-free, it is necessary to carry out timely oil changes. The manufacturer of this beautiful car, recommends carrying out this operation every 15 thousand kilometers, but we know that the quality of the oil is poor automotive market very low, it is often diluted with something to increase the volume of products sold. Many experts, including our editorial team, recommend changing the oil in the Niva engine every 7-8 thousand kilometers.

What do we need for this operation? First of all, you need to prepare a 17mm wrench or a 12mm hex key for unscrewing the plug, a container for used oil, a new oil filter and its remover (optional).

Let us recall that in the previous article we looked at it with our own hands. This operation can be performed even on the road, the main thing is to have it with you necessary tools and a new belt.

Do-it-yourself oil change in a Niva engine

1. Before changing the engine oil, you need to warm up the engine to 55-70 degrees so that the oil becomes more fluid. Let's prepare the necessary keys To unscrew the cap, place a canister or bucket and carefully unscrew the cap. It's worth noting that the oil will be hot, so be careful with your hands.

2. When the used oil is completely drained, you need to unscrew the oil filter.