It works air conditioning on BMW E39. DIY repair of air conditioner fan on BMW E39

27.09.2019

Quite often you can hear complaints of the owners of the BMW model of the E39 model (as well as the E53) about the fact that the engine begins to overheat, if the air conditioner is turned on, especially in hot weather, standing in traffic. This arises for several reasons.

The most basic of them is a fault of the air conditioner fan. This is a pretty serious breakdown, because of which the operation of the air conditioner is impossible. Of course, you can continue to ride with a non-working fan, but then there is no guarantee that you don't have to repair the air conditioner itself, or even worse - the entire motor system will cover with copper pelvis.

An independent elimination of the fan breakdown is not the best idea, especially in restyled models. But, as they say, there are Culibins among the BMW admirers who have some experience in the repair of this device in garage conditions.

The main cause of overheating engine BMW. E39 - air conditioner fan fault.

External wear factors

It should be noted, most often such breakdowns happen in Russia due to temperature drops. The device simply does not withstand heavy loads during the frost, which is sometimes told in -40 and almost with the same indicator in a plus summer. As a rule, the fan motor is wears primarily in obsolete models BMW somewhere in three or four years. If the failure has happened to the machines recently release, then this is mostly marriage. The only one right decision In this situation, will repair the fan in the warranty service.

What can break?

Before repairing repair, it is necessary to understand what exactly it can break in the fan itself.

It can be:

fan output stage;
fan relay;
fan electric motor;
power supply;
the output of the control voltage.

Test of strength

It is necessary first to check the work of the motor directly.

To do this, you need to give twelve volts to the motor, connecting two wires, blue and brown, between the board and the engine, and the third is a minus control to the relay. If he earn, one can say, the driver got off with a slight fright, as it will be necessary to find and replace other details. If the engine has not twisted, then only the purchase of a new thing remains, and it threatens at high costs. Usually the motor itself is rarely burning, large problems deliver its insides. It will be worthwhile to check the performance of the board, namely its nutrition at the peak of the controller, the roll, and whether the diode is not breaking through the chain through which food passes. One hundred percent confidence is that even experts will be able to overpass the fan and it will work, no, so you can get courage and try to do it yourself.

Features repair

A special difficulty in eliminating the breakdown causes a special gel composition covering the surface of the board, and Ferida magnets. The gel prevents damage to identify, simply say, they can almost discern them, and it will not be possible to choose a suitable magnet. Cases are known when some intelligible masters managed to repair the fan, cleaning the magnets and gluing them into the fresh electrically conductive podcipol glue.

You will need to clean from rust. There will be a motor housing, although it is possible to disassemble it, only cutting off the baccoon pressed aluminum claps on the back of the lid. And upon completion repair work You need to turn everything back with contact welding.

When the fan is jammed, two resistors of the first and second velocity are burned. It works without resistors, at full capacity. Create them too, so to speak, at home. It is necessary to wind nichrome wire in several revolutions to the ebony, to insulate and put instead of resistors.

By and large, the repair will leave somewhere two hours in the presence of the desired details. It is also desirable to visit the car wash with a fan-shot and rinse a radiator of the air conditioner and the fan frame, since the amount of dirt hungry makes it difficult to fully work the device.

Is it worth trying?

At the present time to buy a new original fan is not difficult. It can be purchased in specialized salons or on the Internet. The question is only prices and trust. Unfortunately, individual details are extremely difficult to find, since the device usually sells the device entirely, but there is also a chance to find a well-restored fan, which will serve no less than a new one.

Experts argue that recently the quality of spare parts produced under the license for the BMW brand has significantly deteriorated, and, in particular, the fans are burning equally both on the old, and on advanced cars. Faced with breakdown, experts recommend to first diagnose and consult with mechanics, even if the driver knows a lot and has experience in the electrician.

In order for the driver to feel comfortable while driving, car manufacturers use various modern technologies. One of the reference performance vehicle The presence of the air conditioning system is considered. But Conder, like any other automotive unit, can overcome. As for what reasons, the air conditioner fan of the BMW E39 fails and how to replace it - find out in this article.

[Hide]

Fan faults: their signs and reasons

The failure of the air conditioning fan can be due to two reasons - the wear of the device, which is quite normal or its marriage. As a rule, the resource of the fan operation is about 3-4 years, but if it broke before, then most likely the device is defective.

The reason for the breakdown can be:

in the breakdown of the output stage of the device;
in the inoperability of the relay;
in the failure of the electric motor;
in the absence of nutrition, which can be associated with damage to the chain;
in damage to the output of the control voltage.

The main reasons why the air conditioning system may fail:

Lack of tightness. As a rule, in this case, the reason lies in the formation of corrosion or wear of rubber seals. Over time, the gaskets are hardening, they can also lose tightness due to non-accurate dismantling and installation. System nozzles can also flow, which over time are shared.
I broke the air conditioner compressor BMW E60. One of the most common faults in this regard is the mechanical encoding of the node, but such a problem occurs quite rarely. The compressor node can be jammed as a result of late Condera repair, in particular, if the unit has been working for a long time in a non-grid state. This leads to the ingress of dirt and dust into the system, and working fluid It can fall into the lower part of the compressor device. If you encounter such a problem, it will take not only the repair, but also refueling the air conditioner.
Getting trash and dust into the system, which leads to obstruction.
Electrical type malfunctions. Again, such problems often occur as a result of entering the moisture and dust. If the moisture got into contact, then over time it can oxidize and even controversial.
The failure of air dampers, as well as clogging salon filter. Of course, to the air conditioning system, these elements have a mediocre attitude, but it happens that Conder works efficiently, and the air in the cabin is not cooled. If the driver cannot control the air flow, most likely, the reason lies in the dampers, and if the air flow itself is rather weak, then most likely, the filter element has been hammered (the author of the video - car repair ivanoff).

In which cases do you need a fan replacement?

The main reason for which the fan is most often breaking, is the electric motor failed. If the device does not work due to lack of nutrition, then such a problem can be solved in the garage conditions, for this you need to determine the damaged section of the circuit with a multimeter and replace it. If, when you activate the consider, you hear that the fan began to buzz, this suggests that he will soon fail, but if, after pressing the button, nothing happens, most likely a motor broke.

It should be borne in mind that often the reason lies not in the electric motor itself, but in its control unit. To determine the breakdown, you need to shorten two contacts on terminal. If, as a result of the circuit, the electric motor started, it will have to be changed along with the control unit (by video author - Vyacheslav EMPRO).

Not so often, but still such a problem happens when the ventilation device is simply jammed. Such a problem is a consequence of a disconnected magnet (one or several), which, as a result of the dug, falls on the blade of the device, thus deriving it out.

If you decide to repair the air conditioner fan when he swamped, then you will need to: you will need:

remove the device to repair it, you will need to clean the place where the magnet was installed;
glue a new magnet;
using the grinder, cut off the locks on the electric motor case;
when reverse assembly, use the welding machine;
replace two resistors, which in any case fail when the fan jars.

As you can see, the procedure is quite complicated, so it will be easier to replace the device.

Choice and purchase details

On the selection of the motor of the ventilating device on the BMW X5 E53 or on another car we will not speak - and so it is clear that the item is selected in accordance with the car model.

As for the purchase itself, in this case you have two options:

The first is to buy a used part, it can be found either on the Internet or on the disassembly of cars. Of course, in this case, no one will give you warranty that you buy a working mechanism normally, so be prepared for the fact that the knot may fail in a couple of weeks. The only advantage of this option is low cost, but you must understand that we go for risk.
The second is to purchase a device in the store or on the Internet. Naturally, such a mechanism will cost an order of magnitude more expensive, but you will be exactly sure of its performance (by video author - Web2wol).

Instructions for replacement

How to replace BMW X5 E53:

First you need to dismantle the bumper. To do this, the duct lattice should be removed in its lower part, as a rule, they are fixed on ordinary "piston". Then disassembly of fog lamps. Having done this without removing the wheels, you will need to unscrew the screws that fix the front of the protection directly to the bumper itself. On each side, two screws are unscrewed.
Then look under the bottom of the bumper - you can see two bolts, they are unscrewed using a T-key. By revealing them, the bumper should be carefully drawn over, but before this it is necessary to bring the arches protection fees. Remove the lights and carefully dismantle them. At this stage, you can also disassemble moldings located at the bottom of the optics, subsequently this will significantly simplify the procedure for mounting the bumper.
Having done this, you can proceed to dismantling the front casing of the ventilator. The air duct of the enclositive highway is removed, the air filtering element and other small ducts for cooling the generator node and brake discs are removed. Only after the removal of these elements can begin to dismantle the casing. It is fixed on 4 bolts (depending on the car model, there may be 5), and also on three pistons, you can see them from above.
After performing all the actions described, the fan itself can be dismantled. When the device is removed, it is either repaired or changes. In any case, after installing a new fan, the further assembly is carried out in reverse sequence.

Home »Articles» BMW E39 how to remove the air conditioner fan

An independent elimination of the fan breakdown is not the best idea, especially in restyled models. But, as they say, there are Kulibins among the BMW admirers who have some experience in the repair of this device in the garage conditions.

The main cause of the engine overheating BMW E39 is a fault of the air conditioner fan.

It should be noted, most often such breakdowns happen in Russia due to temperature drops. The device simply does not withstand heavy loads during the frost, which is sometimes told in -40 and almost with the same indicator in a plus summer. As a rule, the fan motor wear predominantly in the outdated BMW models somewhere in three or four years. If the failure has happened with the machines of the last years of release, it is mostly marriage. The only right solution in this situation will repair the fan in the warranty service.

What can break?

Before repairing repair, it is necessary to understand what exactly it can break in the fan itself.

Air conditioner fan BMW E39

It can be:

fan output stage;
fan relay;
fan electric motor;
power supply;
the output of the control voltage.

Test of strength

It is necessary first to check the work of the motor directly.

BMW E39 Air Conditioner Motor

Features repair

You will need to clean from rust. There will be a motor housing, although it is possible to disassemble it, only cutting off the baccoon pressed aluminum claps on the back of the lid. And upon completion of the repair work, you need to quickly brew with contact welding.

Is it worth trying?

How to restore the operation of the air conditioner fan BMW E39 and other models?

In order for the driver to feel comfortable while driving, car manufacturers use various modern technologies. One of the quality of the comfort when managing the vehicle is the presence of an air conditioning system. But Conder, like any other automotive unit, can overcome. As for what reasons, the air conditioner fan of the BMW E39 fails and how to replace it - find out in this article.

The reason for the breakdown can be:

in the breakdown of the output stage of the device;
in the inoperability of the relay;
in the failure of the electric motor;
in the absence of nutrition, which can be associated with damage to the chain;
in damage to the output of the control voltage.

Fan switching motor

The main reasons why the air conditioning system may fail:

Lack of tightness. As a rule, in this case, the reason lies in the formation of corrosion or wear of rubber seals. Over time, the gaskets are hardening, they can also lose tightness due to non-accurate dismantling and installation. System nozzles can also flow, which over time are shared.
I broke the air conditioner compressor BMW E60. One of the most common faults in this regard is the mechanical encoding of the node, but such a problem occurs quite rarely. The compressor node can be jammed as a result of late Condera repair, in particular, if the unit has been working for a long time in a non-grid state. This leads to the ingress of dirt and dust into the system, and the working fluid can fly to the lower part of the compressor device. If you encounter such a problem, it will take not only the repair, but also refueling the air conditioner.
Getting trash and dust into the system, which leads to obstruction.
Electrical type malfunctions. Again, such problems often occur as a result of entering the moisture and dust. If the moisture got into contact, then over time it can oxidize and even controversial.
The failure of air dampers, as well as the clogging of the cabin filter. Of course, to the air conditioning system, these elements have a mediocre attitude, but it happens that Conder works efficiently, and the air in the cabin is not cooled. If the driver cannot control the air flow, most likely, the reason lies in the dampers, and if the air flow itself is rather weak, then most likely, the filter element has been hammered (the author of the video - car repair ivanoff).

In which cases do you need a fan replacement?

If you decide to repair the air conditioner fan when he swamped, then you will need to: you will need:

remove the device to repair it, you will need to clean the place where the magnet was installed;
glue a new magnet;
using the grinder, cut off the locks on the electric motor case;
when reverse assembly, use the welding machine;
replace two resistors, which in any case fail when the fan jars.

As you can see, the procedure is quite complicated, so it will be easier to replace the device.

Choice and purchase details

On the selection of the motor of the ventilating device on the BMW X5 E53 or on another car we will not speak - and so it is clear that the item is selected in accordance with the car model.

As for the purchase itself, in this case you have two options:

The first is to buy a used part, it can be found either on the Internet or on the disassembly of cars. Of course, in this case, no one will give you warranty that you buy a working mechanism normally, so be prepared for the fact that the knot may fail in a couple of weeks. The only advantage of this option is low cost, but you must understand that we go for risk.
The second is to purchase a device in the store or on the Internet. Naturally, such a mechanism will cost an order of magnitude more expensive, but you will be exactly sure of its performance (by video author - Web2wol).

Instructions for replacement

How to replace the fan by car BMW X5 E53:

First you need to dismantle the bumper. To do this, the duct lattice should be removed in its lower part, as a rule, they are fixed on ordinary "piston". Then disassembly of fog lamps. Having done this without removing the wheels, you will need to unscrew the screws that fix the front of the protection directly to the bumper itself. On each side, two screws are unscrewed.
Then look under the bottom of the bumper - you can see two bolts, they are unscrewed using a T-key. By revealing them, the bumper should be carefully drawn over, but before this it is necessary to bring the arches protection fees. Remove the lights and carefully dismantle them. At this stage, you can also disassemble moldings located at the bottom of the optics, subsequently this will significantly simplify the procedure for mounting the bumper.
Having done this, you can proceed to dismantling the front casing of the ventilator. The air duct of the enclositive highway is removed, the air filtering element and other small ducts for cooling the generator node and brake discs are removed. Only after the removal of these elements can begin to dismantle the casing. It is fixed on 4 bolts (depending on the car model, there may be 5), and also on three pistons, you can see them from above.
After performing all the actions described, the fan itself can be dismantled. When the device is removed, it is either repaired or changes. In any case, after installing a new fan, the further assembly is carried out in reverse sequence.

Photo gallery "Independently changing the fan"

1. Remove the fog lights. 2. Remove the bumper from the car. 3. Disconnect the air ducts, then remove the front casing. 4. Now it remains only to dismantle the fan and replace it. Loading...

Video "refueling air conditioner BMW E39"

How to fill the Conder with your own hands - detailed instructions to carry out one of the main stages maintenance Systems are shown in the video below (the author is the ALEX MAX channel).

Air conditioner repair fan BMW E39:

The problem was manifested in one of the hot days during idle in the plot with the air conditioner turned on. The coolant temperature arrow slowly crawled up, after which the BC indicated the need to check the level of antifreeze. After opening the hood, it was found to flow from under expansion tank... In search of leaks, the electric fan, which stopped turning on, and the coupling were passing under the replacement. To begin with, it was decided to replace the coupling

After replacing the coupling, it was decided to disassemble in the "Mord" car in search of the cause.

After the forced re-turning on the motor, he filed some signs of life. Cutting on bending isolation revealed the following

After that, the bend was carved and the smeared again, but the motor continued to turn on in times and with tension. It was decided to disassemble it completely.

The whole rust was removed from the stator and magnets, after which everything was produced and degreased. Brushes were B. good condition.

Trial launch showed that the motor began to spin without difficulty as a new one.

Everything soldered back and gathered in the reverse order. The motor works without problems at all three speeds. When the air conditioner is turned on, the fan immediately begins to rotate.

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Condemium fan repair /// from E39 in E53 - Logbook BMW X5 BOAR EXTENSION))) 2003 on DRIVE2

I recently broke my fan. The symptoms of the death were such - twitching, but it does not start, sometimes knock on it and it will work ... Watch the first couple of seconds, then you can not watch ;-)

Decision to buy a new original - 22 000r. (Hell price tag), used original from the parsing - from 9000r., To buy a separate motor - from 5000r. But give a bunch of money for the new, souls toad, buy a used as an option, but for a long time, because There is no place on the spot, but to buy in another city (the cat in the bag, because you yourself do not check, but there is no confidence) and whether the worker does not know and it does not know how much it will work. He turned to his guys in BMVKlubkuban and Comrade offered to pick up a working fan from him from E39 Restayl Original Siemens whose bearing was collapsed! It was decided, done, for a fagon sent a comrade 500r. Although he refused! On the same day, a bus was passed by bus and an organ transplantation began! Disassembled a donor, the brains are outwardly in order, a large backlash is present on the fan bearing - well, oh well. I went scattered under the entrance my car, amputated the fan and brought home! I'll tell you immediately - I removed everything because It was necessary to bind some moments on the plastic from the old owner, and even the birthists feel like himself! And it will begin - that they say it is not necessary to scatter the face, etc. etc. I will say this way - you can not scatter, but pulling down the fan with a car standing on Earth is hell (my opinion). Two vents broke out, brains from the donor E39 rubbed, cleaned, missed. Own the bearing, rubbed and that's it. Rehearseled without aiming the conscience of the wire and at Dorora and his own, then they twisted them and smelled the soldering iron, reached all this business with a rag tape, and then wondered the entire wire from the beginning to the end of the usual tape s \\ h Everything collected in the reverse sequence. Forget: everything works, I noticed that apparently because everything was missed, the fan works significantly quieter ... the price of the question: 500r. for fan + 200r. Transfer by bus + 55r. Rod isolent + piece of emery paper (free) + soldering iron (free).

Stuck diagnostics, threw the mistakes and all!

donor - Fan with E39 Restayl

the chip on E39 is not as on E53 (so it is in the furnace)

original Siemens (in Restayle brains stand in the fan itself, unlike Dorestayl)

disassembled engine conditioner

it was horrified first of the amount of dust, but when the rubber - I saw that everything was flooded with some kind of crap, type-soft silicone epoxy

second part of the engine

the overall picture from another perspective is the disassembled engine of the condush fan

this is what the vent on E53 looks like on the car

and it looks like)))

went parsing the muzzle number 1

the outcome of the parsing of the muzzle number 2

the outcome of the disorder of the muzzle number 3

website

Repair BMW 5: Removing and installing fan and fan coupling BMW 5 (E39)

Removing and installing fan and fan clutch

Viscous clutch It is necessary to replace if the hub has downs. In this case, the fan with a fixed engine does not rotate or rotates with difficulty. The coupling must also be replaced if the axial or radial clearance exceeds 0.6 mm. To check, you need to move the fan in different directions. The oil from the hub should not flow.

When unscrewing the nut, squeeze the wedge blade of the coolant pump, while keeping the hub from rotation. If the nut sits very firmly, hit the hammer on the key to turning the nut. (Automatic BMW applies a special tool that holds the pulley for the bolts head). After turning off the nut completely unscrew it with the rotation of the impeller. At the same time, it is necessary to pay attention to that the impeller does not fall.

1. BMW cars 5.0 Series 1.0 Tomobyl BMW 5 Series 1.1 Car Identification Rooms 1.2 Acquisition of Spare Parts 1.3 Service Technology, Tool and Equipment of the Desktop 1.4 Substitution and tow 1.5 Engine start from auxiliary power supply 1.6 Car readiness checks for operation 1.7 Automotive chemicals, oil and lubricant 1.8 malfunction diagnostics

2. Operating Instructions 2.0 Operating Instructions 2.1 Controls, Instruments and Control Lamps 2.2 Starting Devices and Anti-theft Alarm 2.3 Salon Equipment 2.4 Security System 2.5 Fuel Refill, Running and Stopping Engine 2.6 Parking Brake 2.7 Manual Transmission Shift Box (RCPP) 2.8 Automatic Transmission (AT) * 2.9 Tempostat 2.10 Alarm for emergency convergence during parking (PDC) * 2.11 Automatic stabilization system of stability with a traction regulator (ASC + T) 2.12 Electronic adjustment of amortization stiffness (EDC) * and adjustment road Suit 2.13 Lighting 2.14 heating and ventilation systems 2.15 Automatic air conditioning * 2.16 Autonomous heating and ventilation systems 2.17 Self-diagnostic system * 2.18 Travel computer 2.19 Officon 2.20 Catalytic converter 2.21 Anti-lock brake system (ABS) 2.22 Trailer 2.23 Road trunk 2.24 Car phone * 2.25 Radio 2.26 Remote headlights 2.27 Hood 2.28 Car radio 2.29 audio system type Hi-Fi with DSP * 2.30 emergency stop sign * 2.31 first aid kit *

3. Current care and maintenance 3.0 Current care and maintenance 3.1 Current service schedule 3.2 Introduction 3.3 Current care 3.4 General information on setting 3.5 Checking fluid levels 3.6 Checking the status of tires and pressure in them 3.7 Motor oil replacement and oil filter 3.8 Check and revolutions idle move Engine and Level CO 3.9 Element Replacement air filter 3.10 Salon Air Filter Replacement 3.11 Check brake system 3.12 Visual control of the bottom and elements of the body 3.13 Checking the fluid level of the hydraulic steering system 3.14 wheels and tires. Rotation, replacement, balancing and care. Snow chains. "Secret" wheels. Elimination of the steering shake. 3.15 Checking the status and replacement of motor compartment hoses 3.16 Status check drive belts 3.17 Checking the status of the battery, care for it and charging. Replacing the power element DU 3.18 Check and replacement of spark plugs 3.19 Checking the fuel system. Winter operation Diesel 3.20 Checking the functioning of the cooling system 3.21 Checking the state of the exhaust gas release system 3.22 Checking the status of the components of the suspension and steering 3.23 Verification of the condition of the protective covers of drive shafts 3.24 Lubrication of the locking devices 3.25 Visual inspection Safety belts 3.26 Checking the status and replacement of wiper brushes 3.27 Replacing the brake fluid 3.28 Replacing the cooling system fluid. Checking the frost-resistant cooler. Visual check of the cooling system 3.29 Removal of sludge, replacement fuel filter. Removal of air from the fuel system diesel engine 3.30 Replacement transmission Oil Manual gear shift box 3.31 replacement lubricant Differential 3.32 Checking the thickness of the slave clutch disk

4. Engine 4.0 Engine 4.1. Engine repair procedures 4.2. Engine lubrication system

5. Cooling systems, heating 5.0 cooling systems, heating 5.1. Cooling system 5.2. Heater 5.3. Air conditioner air

6. Power and output systems 6.0 power and release systems 6.1. Power system 6.2. Injection system gasoline engine 6.3. Diesel engine system 6.4. Exhaust gas production system

7. Engine electrical equipment 7.0 Engine electrical equipment 7.1. Ignition system 7.2. The system predicted diesel engine 7.3. Charge and launch system

8. Manual gearbox 8.0 Manual gearbox 8.1 Removing and installing RCPP and AT 8.2 Removing and installing gear lever

9. Automatic Transmission 9.0 Automatic Transmission 9.1 Removal and Installation automatic transmission 9.2 Adjusting the gear shift drive 9.3 Checking the level and replacement of automatic transmission oil

10. Clutch and drive shafts 10.0 grip and drive shafts 10.1. Clutch 10.2. Drive shafts

11. Brake System 11.0 Brake System 11.1 Anti-lock System 11.2 Removing and installing front brake shoes 11.3 Removing and installing brake disc / front brake caliper 11.4 Removing and installing rear brake pads 11.5 Removal and installation rear brake calipers 11.6 Removing and installing brake disc rear wheels 11.7 Measurement of the thickness of the brake disc 11.8 Brake fluid 11.9 Removal of air from the brake system 11.10 Replacing brake pipelines 11.11 Replacing the front brake hose 11.12 Checking vacuum brake amplifier 11.13 Removing and installing brake pads parking brake 11.14 Adjustment of the parking brake 11.15 Removing and installing the parking brake lever 11.16 Removing and installing the parking brake cable 11.17 Checking and replacing the stop signal switch

12. Suspension and steering 12.0 Suspension and steering 12.1. Front suspension 12.2. Rear suspension 12.3. Steering

13. Body 13.0 body 13.1 CARE FOR THE BUD 13.2 CARE FOR THE VINILER PANELS 13.3 Care for the upholstery and car mats 13.4 Repair of minor damage to body panels 13.5 Repair of significant body damage 13.6 Body clearances 13.7 Removal and installation of the front bumper 13.8 Removing and installing front bumpers Bumper 13.9 Removing and installing rear bumper 13.10 Removal and installation of the rear bumper shock absorber 13.11 Removal and installation of the front wing 13.12 Removal and installation of the hood 13.13 Hood position adjustment 13.14 Removal and installation of trunk lid 13.15 Adjustment of the trunk cover 13.16 Removing and installing trunk cladding 13.17 Removal and installation Installation of the trunk cap lock / Cylinder Cylinder 13.18 Removing and installing the hood stop / trunk lid 13.19 Replacing the lining / branded lettering 13.20 Removal, Installation and Door Adjustment 13.21 Removing and installing door lining 13.22 Removing and installing door lock 13.23 Removing and installing Outdoor door handle 13.24 Removing and installing a lock cylinder 13.25 Removing and installing an electric motor / microswitch Single lock 13.26 Removal, installation and adjustment of the door glass 13.27 Removal and installation of electric windows 13.28 Removal and installation of the outer mirror 13.29 Removal and installation of glass mirror 13.30 Removal and setting the exterior mirror housing 13.31 Removing and installing an inner mirror 13.32 Removing and installing the central console 13.33 Removing and installing the electric motor of the shift panel of the roof hatch 13.34 Removal and installation front seats 13.35 Security Straight Tensioner 13.36 Safety Measures when handling a belt tension device 13.37 Prevention of the belt tension device 13.38 Removal and installation rear seat 13.39 Removing and installing shelves under a headdress 13.40 Removal and installation of the rear window shutters

14. Side Electrical Equipment 14.0 Side Electrical Equipment 14.1 Diagnostics of Faults of Side Electrical Equipment - general information 14.2 Fuses 14.3. Furious inserts 14.4 Rellets 14.6 Relay check 14.7 Verification of incandescent bulbs 14.8 Checking electric motors 14.9 Checking the electrical switches 14.10 Checking switches of lamps and electric motors 14.11 Checking the sensors 14.12 Checking the wiper motor 14.13 Checking the stop signal 14.14 Checking the rear window heater 14.15 Removal and installation Switch 14.16 Removing and installing temperature sensor 14.17 Removal, installation and checking of the audio signal 14.18 Remote control initialization single castle 14.19 Adjustment of the Light Light 18.20 Removing and installing the light range adjustment 14.21 Replacing fuses 14.22 Loading fuses 14.23 Lighting devices 14.24 Replacing incandescent lamps 14.25 Removal and installation of headlights 14.26 Headlight adjustment 14.27 Removal and installation of the rear light 14.28 Control devices 14.29 Removing and installing the instrument panel unit 14.29 14.30 Replacing the instrument panel lamps 14.31 Removal and installation of rotation / wiper signal switch 14.32 Removal and installation of the radio 14.33 Wiper cleaner 14.34 Replacing wiper brushes 14.35 Removal, installation and adjustment of the wind turbines 14.36 Removal and installation of the wiper drive / cover 14.37 Removal and installation of wiper motor 14.38 Check and replacement of the pumping pump 14.39 work with electrical circuits

15. Electrical Equipment Schemes 15.0 Electrical Equipment Schemes 15.1 Incandescent Candles, Incandescent Candle Relay 15.2 Injector 5 + 6 (520i) 15.3 Invalued Air Temperature Sensor 15.4 Fuel system 15.5 SERVOTRONIK 15.6 Sound Signals 15.7 Wiper Switch 15.8 Control Purifier Wheel Cleaners 15.9 Outdoor Mirror Without Memory (Driver Side) 15.10 Outdoor Mirror Without Memory (Front Passenger Side) 15.11 Flavor Outdoor Mirror 15.12 Nutrition Flooring Inner Mirror 15.13 Turn Signal Switch 15.14 Switch alarm 15.15 Front Light Devices 15.16 Fog lights 15.17 Light range adjustment (manual) 15.18 Running indicator Left 15.19 Rear lights 15.20 STOP signals 15.21 Stop signal (highly refined) 15.22 Stop signal switch 15.23 Loan sign lighting lights 15.24 Rear lighting Internal left 15.25 Cosmetic mirror lighting 15.26 Charging socket, cassette drawer lighting 15.27 CD-CHANDGER (multi-disc player) 15.28 Antenna on rear glass 15.29 Engine control system and control unit connector. Models 520i, 523i, 528i 15.30 The anti-lock brake system and the ABS control unit connector. All models 15.31 Schematic scheme Switching 20-pin diagnostic connector 15.32 of signal flames at the outputs of the engine control unit 15.33 connector. System on-board diagnostic

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Cleaning the air conditioner evaporator (what does e39 look like from the inside) - Logbook of BMW 5 Series 4.4 1998 on Drive2

As promised in the past bortovik that I will do the air conditioning system, well, or at least see what there. So, as in the plans to install the rear sakes in the door, and the front parking sensor, then you need to disassemble the interior to lay the wires.

I started with the sidu, an hour and everything outside the salon, I will not paint as everything is in the tees.

To remove the front seat, you need to unscrew 4 bolts and remove the safety belt tension cable, and the belt itself is unscrewed from the seat

When it became spacious in the cabin, I began to shoot a beard, which is filmed with more consistent seats.

Approximately 4 hours passed, if with the smoke 6.

The next day, Torpeda also went to walk)))

It can be seen on each centimeter that the Germans sought the best noise insulation.

Hour and torpedo smokes on the sidelines))

Just promo all air ducts))

Having removed the seal, I wanted to look at the state of the salon fan, as he missed at the plus temperature, and he got to him.

At first glance, the appearance is not very, it is all in copper dust from brushes.

When I got it, it was surprised as the brushes were the collector.

Collector generating approximately millimeter 3))

The poor fellow turns on the last sigh.

Or full replacement fan will either overhaul With the replacement of brushes and a new collector))

What awaits the fan not yet decided. So I took off the fan, immediately there was little access to the evaporator. (Well, the smell of it) is just horror. Well, immediately I wanted to remove the evaporator. According to BMW TIS, it is proposed to remove without removing the entire climatic installation block, but Believe it, hemorrhoid is still so unreal, but I tried.

Removed the front amplifier, the so-called strut.

You still need to shoot the glove box, but I did not want to pull it out.

I won't shine soul, it was dumb when you see your typewriter in this form.

To be honest, the engine repair, chains replacing and all that, kindergarten Compared with this puzzle.

The block itself on latches and screws, which is up to hundreds, and I decided to take a chance to disassemble the entire box without removing from the car.

With difficulty removed the left side, and I realized that you need to remove the entire unit, since on the machine you can all break, screws in hard-to-reach places.

Looking at the evaporator, it was seen as he would fly oil, well, they had already evaporated all doubts, shoot or not.

It can be seen how the oil leaked through the gaskets))

Well, the problem arose with the refrigence, how to keep it ... asked for a hundred, they said you need to pump out, but since I could not come on the move, and I consulted with people who said you can not hate my fingers and so as not to frow thumbs and So further, in short, it is dangerous. But on the advice of Vlad, one Soklubnik decided everything. He said to twist the fitting and sternia nearby)))

I urged him a little ...

Cut the bottle and blew pushing to the check valve. And I realized that there was a lot of noise from those who do not know people. For a minute, everything was laid and the work went ...

Then unscrew the three nozzles on the stove radiator.

It can be safely removed, the liquids will fall out quite a bit. Called to remove the protective gum, it must be missed with silicone or oil.

The block itself is attached on three wrenches for 10.One at the center and two under the rubber bands where the nozzles of the air conditioner and the coolant. If you remove two tubes on the cold, the hexagon of six, the bolt burst, because it has already stupidly bought it, it will be necessary replace.

I got everything I got everything assembly.

The smell was impregnated with everything in the flesh to plastic (((

Well, and the view in the cabin.

Again I never cease to be surprised how everything is clearly adjusted by the seal))

Well, and what we breathe ...

All in dust, and even garbage fell.

But the radiator itself.

Advise what to wash it without damaging the cell?

Well, percent of 70 are to blame these air ducts that passed dust past filters.

Either change the whole assembly or gasket a new back))

And if you still think that some kind of foam is fed into the air duct and everything will be cleaned, then all the fairy tales, the smell will leave for a month, and the reason will remain.

Only a completely careful washing and sealing system will give the result.

So we have a big wash)))

Thanks for attention))

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