Guide calipers: how and what to lubricate. We repair the brake caliper, without problems, do it yourself how to change the guide caliper

Guides rear calipers are needed to perform several tasks. First, they are responsible for the lack of a car brake ring, secondly, for the uniformity of braking. The main problem is that this element is rapid enough rather, although much depends on the brand of the car. Let's see how to lubricate yourself, and if necessary, and change the guide caliper.

A bit of general information

Before starting work, you need to decide what is actually a problem. And the thing is that the hum and the creaking during braking can occur in several banal reasons. As a rule, this is a critical wear detail or a complete or partial absence of a grease under the boot. This difficulty work can be called easy, the only problem may occur if the anthers are accurate, but this is quickly solved. To begin with, it is advisable to install vehicle on the watching pit Or use the lift. In most cases, a fairly ordinary jack. We remove the wheel and see the actually our problem zone with which you have to work soon. If everything is very dirty and nothing is clear, then we take a brush on the metal and neatly clean everything. Try not to damage the anthers, as they are made of fine rubber.

Required toolkit

Immediately let's deal with the tools. First of all, you need to find the original repair kit on the rear caliper, which consists of a number of spare parts, such as the guide and piston boof, lubricant, cuff, etc. In order for the replacement and lubrication process to take as little time as possible, get a hammer and flat scolder, preferably Have a set of heads and a dynamometer key. Under hand there must be a clean vest, as it will have to work with lubrication. If the room is dark, then install additional lighting, You can have a special lamp, it will be much more comfortable. Now you can go to the practical part of the solution of the problem. For this remove rear wheel From the car, pre-raising the side by the jack and installing the anti-parameters in front of the vehicle.

Replacing the guide caliper

We unscrew with the appropriate key of the bolts from all guides, their 4 pieces. To do this, use two tools: one of them is twisted the outer bolt, and the second to hold the nut from scrolling. After completing this step, you can easily remove the caliper up. It often happens that he is tight enough of the pad. To solve this problem, use the hammer and light blows by sharing the device in different directions, remove it to where you need. After that, the guides of the rear calipers can be removed without any problems, because they are only kept on the paddle. His dismantling is carried out pretty quickly and simply. The rubber element is enough to hurt dumplings and remove. Please note that the upper finger, in contrast to the lower, in landing place He has a step that creates a backlash. When assembling, do not confuse them in places. On this, the replacement of the guide caliper is completed, you can move to the next step.

We continue repair work

If you have noticed that the guides of the brake caliperproproprzhell, then immediately change them. If the condition is satisfactory, then you can leave. Do not forget to dismantle the guide pads, as a rule, they snap directly into the caliper bracket. Now proceed to clean the removed items. To do this, you can use sandpaper (fine-grained). Before applying lubrication, degrease the details. Do not forget to hold exactly the same actions with the guides of the pads, since dirt and water falls under operation under the fruit, which significantly reduces the operational properties of lubricants. After that, you can install new spare parts, or old, at your discretion. After the node is assembly, take a metal brush and walk along the brakes, look at the degree of wear of the pads, it is possible that they will have to be changed soon.

What to choose a lubricant?

The question is quite delicious for any motorist. In order for guide caliper to work in normal conditions and ensure proper safety while driving, it is recommended to use high temperature lubricant. This will allow almost completely eliminate the likelihood of the jam or the brake pads during the movement. When you repair, you definitely pay attention to the state of the sending guide. The fact is that dirt and other foreign inclusions fall under it. Lubrication is washed and loses its initial properties. If the guides of the front calipers cligrate, then with a probability of 99%, it can be said that lubricant material. Each replacement of the brake pads should include an inspection of the guide. Remove the boot, remove the old lubrication layer and apply a new one on a non-fat surface. Processing should be subject to both the brackets, as well as the metal surfaces of the shoe. This applies an invalid paste. Lubrication can be with the inclusion of copper or with the addition of ceramics (magnesium, disulfide).

How to lubricate guide calipers

If you have not done this for a long time, now it's time. To begin with, you will need a tube with lubricant. If you purchased the repair kit, then it is there. Pasta has an orange color. If the consistent lubricant for guides in auto shops does not work out, which most often happens, we buy high-temperature pasta, several bags of 6 grams. First, you first, two guide calipers and treat them from dust and dirt. If possible, it is advisable to change the anthers. If you do not install new, then remove the old, wash them and dry them. On the finger, the lubricant is applied with a thin layer over the entire surface. Under the anthers also need to apply a little lubricant. By the way, do not overdo it, because the layer will be great, there is no sense. You can lay a little paste into anthers and immediately before they are installed. If there are defects on rubber, it is necessary to change spare parts, because they will not cope with their immediate task, the problem with the creak will soon arise again. Go to the next question is the installation of the "non-rigging" guide on the car.

About installing a finger on the car

As noted above, if you notice a knock, creaking or other unpleasant sounds in area brake mechanisms Your car, then most likely, business in pads or guides. There are 3 outputs from the situation. Just lubricate everything, install a new repair kit (quite expensive) or with a large wear of the guides to put new ones, but from another car. If the finger is longer than you need, not a problem. You can use the mill and cut it up to the desired thickness. After that, it is necessary to remove all burrs from the treated edge so that the jams do not occur during operation. As practice shows if the diameter coincides, then there should be no problems. The boot of the guide caliper should take the new "finger" without any excessive effort.

Fighting Measures

Most users complain about the re-appearance of the knock after the comprehensive replacement of the guide caliper or lubrication. In this case, some measures can be taken, for example, to use a special but this will help just a few thousand kilometers. Another good way - This is an elementary setting of the bracket for the caliper. In some cases, there are already available, if not, in most cases it is this method that it helps solve all problems with creak or knock. If you perform all actions in the complex, the result will be positive. To do this, you need to change the guides before installing them, also pay attention to the anthers, or rather, their condition. Install brackets (springs) and rejoice out.

Several important points

If, after removing the guide calipers, you noticed that the fingers were strongly worn out, it does not make sense to repair them, it is easier to replace. It will be faster and cheaper. Remember that during urban or aggressive driving with frequent braking, you need to buy a lubricant that does not change your composition and properties with an increase in temperature. The reason for this is that discs can heat up to 300 degrees Celsius and even higher. As for the repair directly, this is a pretty expensive procedure that is not always appropriate. However, if you still decide on it, then purchase the repair guides and swell the suitable diameter. The whole point is that the purchased finger has a diameter of 10 mm with a standard 9.5 millimeters. It is mounted, lubricated and installed back to the place.

Conclusion

This article has been said a lot about how to properly replace the guides. Without lubrication, nothing will work, and if it is, it will not be very long, which is due to the high coefficient of friction and temperature, because of what the anthers and other parts will be damaged. Again, the process of replacing the rear and front calipers and their repair does not differ in principle. It is also important to know that the finger is a guide caliper - has a hole from which you need to get lubricant and lay new, for more efficient operation. Set all the details back from the sequence removal, tighten everything carefully. Fingers should freely move along the work surface, but not hang out, that is, without a backlash. Check if the knock disappeared, then you have achieved your goal. If the problem remains, you need to refer to a qualified specialist for help.

Caliper's finger guides are a cylindrical device with an internal threaded cavity and an external smooth surface, lubricated. consistent lubricant. It moves (slides) the brake cylinder in the parallel plane for pressing and releasing the pads from the disk.

How to understand that guides do not work?

The main symptoms of faulty guides are the preport are:

• when braking, the car begins to take away to the side;
• braking is not effective - the load on the pedal is the same, and braking distances increased;
• pads are erased unevenly. Abrasion comes with a breakdown or (for example) only an inner block is erased.

These are obvious signs that guide caliper do not work. That is, prevent the cylinder movement.

Why do you have to change the guide caliper?

• If the carving is damaged inside the guide
• If the outer surface is made of rust
• If the fixing gum is damaged

What should the guides serve for a long time and did not require replacement?

Do not damage corrugated anther. Regular examination of the corrugations will help to diagnose this defect on time.

Serve (clean and lubricate) guides when replacing brake discs and pads. If you spend these works yourself, do not forget to carry out such a service. If you appeal to a hundred, then these procedures should make mechanics working with your machine.

How to change the guides yourself?

To do this, you will need an ordinary plumbing tool. Head, ratchet and horn keys, special tongs for installing corrugated anther on the caliper.

The process is not complicated:

1. Unscrew the caliper bolts from the guide caliper.
2. Remove the brake cylinder and hang it.
3. Remove old guides.
4. Clean the landing of the guides.
5. Lubricate guides specifically lubricant.
6. Collect everything in reverse order.

What lubricant can be used for guides?

An ordinary lithol is not suitable for lubricating the guides, since the aggressive environment and temperature will quickly lead it out of order. Our specialists recommend special lubricants, such as:

• Loctite №8060 / 8150/8151
• Huskey 2000 Lubricating Paste, Huskey 400 Anti-Seize
• Wurth Al 1100;
• Textar Cera Tec.
• Liqui Moly Bremsen-Anti-Quietzch-Paste;
• Huskey Moly Paste.
• Loctite №8012 / 8154/8155.

If you have noticed the rattling of calipers in your car, first of all it is worth paying attention to two things:

1. On the springs of the brake pads that could relax
2. On the guides of the calipers - maybe they were worn due to lack of lubrication

This article will consider the second option, when exactly the wear of the guide fingers leads to such problems. First of all, it is worth paying attention to the state of anthers. If they broke or even cracked, they need to be replaced with new ones, and the fingers themselves are repeated. But about this in more detail below.

Required tool for audit calipers on VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112

• Flat blade screwdriver
• Key 13 and 17 mm
• Grease copper
• Lubricant for guide calipers
• Brake cleaner

Replacing anthers and guide fingers calipers on VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112

First you need to unscrew the mounting bolts front wheel, raise the car to the jack and remove the wheel finally. After that, with a flat screwdriver, flexing the picking washers of the bolts of the guides, both from above and below. Then unscrew the mounting bolt while holding the finger from turning the key to 17 mm.

Remove the brake hose from the engagement in the front rack, after which it is to fold the caliper bracket up. If it does not lean, then with a flat screwdriver to reduce the cylinder.

And now I will reclider without any problems:

Now you can remove the palp of the caliper from above, as shown in the photo below.

If the finger worked for a long time on dry, that is, without lubrication, it was most likely to wear out, which will lead to an increased backup of a caliper bracket, and this in turn to rattling, and sometimes even bringing the caliper.

We take a new guide finger, put on it a new boot and lubricate your finger with a special lubricant. In this case, I bought MC1600, as there was nothing similar in the store. The cost of the bag is 50 rubles. It is not suiced, say, but look at the effectiveness a little later.

Lubricant should be applied with a thin layer so that its surplus does not come on brake pads or discs. Since it is high temperature, then it will have to remove it for a long time and painfully.

After that, we set all this in our places, be sure to ensure that the boot can be sitting tightly both on the finger and on the caliper. Otherwise, the lubricant quickly "leaves", and the fingers will begin to wear out again.

The lower finger is changing similarly, and there will be no problems with this procedure. If for any reason the lubricant got on the surface of the brake discs or pads, be sure to remove its residues using a special cleaner.

Video review of the audit of the caliper on the VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112

If you want to look at this report more clearly, then in the above review everything is displayed.

If questions still remain, you can discuss both in this article and videos on the channel.

When replacing or simply servicing calipers, it is recommended to lubricate rubbing, moving parts with special lubricants, to ensure normal operation of the node as a whole. The caliper is one of the main components in the brake system, why requires special attention. It is important to keep track of the state of the guides for the clamping brackets, the so-called "fingers", since they are the most vulnerable. Moreover, the importance of periodic lubrication is indicated even in the "manuals" of manufacturers, almost for each model.

In the photo: guide calipers and anthers

It is important to understand that if you use not suitable means, the effect can be reverse, up to the jamming of "fingers", pads, pistons. The same is waiting for drivers who have guides work "on dry". They fall onto dirt, moisture, subsequently scoring them and leading to the device not properly, the block is pressed to the end, it starts to establish and the like.

On the left - the guide is blurred at the factory and its condition is good. On the right - the guide is not lubricated, as a result, bought. Photo - DRIVE2.RU

What lubricants are suitable?

In general, the standard requirements for the type of lubrication and its composition are imposed. So:

First of all it temperature modeSince the caliper, in principle, works in proven temperatures, the lubricant must be appropriate. The minimum heating is 160 degrees.

High performance modes even at minus temperatures.

It is important that the lubricant is not aggressive to rubber products, as well as plastics. Since the "fingers" are anthers. If the aggressive component falls on them, the rubber can wake up, and simply will not stick to the "finger". Often, these lubricants include familiar - lithols, solidol. Nothing listed is not suitable, as many would not mind. Their main purpose, remove the screens and grinds.

Resistance to atmospheric influences - snow, rain.

On the guides zakisla lubrication. Therefore, before buying carefully read reviews

Until some time, a sustainable idea was that classic solidols, lithols are suitable for lubricating guides, however, as they have already said, they are aggressive to rubber, plastic. Therefore, the choice should fall on specialized lubricants based on mineral, synthetic oils and natural thickeners. Their properties allow the lubricant not to drain from the guides (good adhesion), remain the temperature meter. In addition, the "synthetics" is not aggressive to seals, a resistant to water, acidic liquids. Temperature threshold, as a rule, more than 250 degrees.

Experts allocate two groups of funds, on the source composition that are suitable for lubricant:

1. Mineral. This paste, as they also call them, the basis of which "mineral water" is taken with the addition of various thickeners. The most popular thickener is considered to be a bentonite, which in the composition has metal particles and acids. The main feature of such lubricants, in principle, the lack of temperature fluctuations from 50 to 180 degrees. The most famous products from companies: Plastilube VR 500, Loctite LB 8106, Molykote G-3407.

2. The second group of pastes has the property of universal, that is, it is equally suitable for "fingers" and pistons, cylinders. Moreover, compatible with rubber, plastic, etc. Synthetic is used, but purified and with the addition of thickeners and special additives. Additives are intended to increase anti-cylinder, anti-wear properties. Manufacturers are allocated: Loctite LB 8021, MANNOL 9896 Kupfer, Slipkote 220-R and Permatex 20356, 85188.

Among the domestic proposals, it is possible to recall the MS-1600, CIATIM-221 (with the FILTER F, intended for pistons), unison-1. The latter is recommended in the "Manual" to the vases, but it is difficult to find it. Good popularity by domestic market Enjoy the universal SlipKote 220-R and Anti-Quietsch-Paste (pay attention to the label to not buy an anti-slip).

By the way, about the domestic cyatim-221, if it is suitable for all other parameters, then the temperature regime is only up to 200 degrees. Therefore, it is used, often on Russian lada carsSome budget foreign cars like Chevrolet, Kia, Hyundai. If you actively use the brakes, then the lubricant will simply flow and that's it.

Do you always need to lubricate the guides?

No matter how they thought, however, today, not for all "fingers", there is a need for lubrication. The fact is that manufacturers such as Teves, Lucas, Ate structurally provided that the movement of the guides does not occur directly through the rubber seal, but through a special plastic sleeve. If necessary, you can buy Remkomplekt (including a boot, bushing, guide and even a bracket, for some manufacturers) or simply polish the guide if there are no serious workings.

By the way, the lubricant will not help with serious work on the "finger". This is the second case when the purchase of lubricant is not justified to eliminate the knock. Here the decision is only one thing - the purchase of new "guides".

The third moment when when developing on the brackets themselves, the owners try to compensate for it with lubricant. In such cases, the lubricant simply will not be able to cope, and will still be coming. Therefore, the only right output is to buy new spare parts, or try to restore, consulted from specialists.

How to lubricate? How often is it done?

The first thing to remember, pre-inspect the node for damage, it may have been developed or a bustker was broken. Not rare after a long operation of the formed generation on guides or brackets and becomes the cause of the stuffs, squeaks. Then the most thoughtful to replace the old details on new ones. Now it is enough repair kits, and even for the most advanced brands brake system.

In the lubricant there is nothing complicated, the main thing is to remember that there is no rule here, the more, the better. One "finger" is enough just three grams, you do not need to deprive it with the "Mountain". Because surplus can get on the pads, it is bad, if on friction linings. As you understand, the quality of the brakes will deteriorate significantly. Do not forget to check the course of the guides after the assembly, are they moving, as before.

As for the terms of lubrication, how often it is necessary to do, then there are no accurate and regulatory periods. Those manufacturers who advise it to do is converge on what is enough to lubricate after each replacement of pads, disks, pistons, purchase repair kit. Well, and naturally, if you heard the knocks, the screens are not superfluous, you can need a lubricant.

Conclusion

I wanted to sum up the following, remember that not for each car requires lubricant guides, specify the manufacturer that it specifically says. Perhaps there are plastic bushings, for which there is simply no meaning in lubricant. For example, on domestic LADA, although it is recommended to use cyatim-221, its temperature regime is not suitable for an aggressive ride. The basic requirements put in the article, try to follow them.

In addition, pay attention to the state of "fingers", anthers, it is possible to repair, etc. For the choice of lubricant, come responsibly, consider your own driving style.

Either that unpleasant and loud defect is not known to many drivers, and it causes a completely different reaction. Most often, the owner prefers "not to interfere with the car to work" - after all, it does not affect the sound of the braking system in the work of the braking system itself. However, there are quite a few meticulous motorists who are struggling with sound. different ways - For example, lubricant guides and even refinement.

Than lubricate

It would seem that it may be easier to lubricate the guide calipers? Many owners do it - during the next "bulkhead" of the brake system take and lubricate your fingers in the way that they will get under the arm. As a rule, in the garage assortment there is a Litol and its derivatives, as well as the "Graphics". More advanced puzzled by finding a specialized composition, designed specifically for use in the brake system nodes.

And now - a surprise: in most cases, those and others come incorrectly! Yes, the guides of the calipers really need to be lubricated, but not by the fact that they are usually considered suitable lubricant, even if it is positioned in the auto shop.

Car manufacturers produce lubricants for guides under their own brands.

Here is a list of original OEM-lubricants from some automakers indicating catalog numbers:

• BMW 81 22 9 407 103, 83 23 0 305 690;
• FORD / MOTORCRAFT D7AZ-19A331-A, XG-3-A;
• Volkswagen / Audi G 052 150 A2;
• Land Rover RTC7603, SYL500010;
• Honda 08C30-B0224M, 08798-9027;
• Mazda 0000-77-XG3A;
• Nissan 999mp-AB002;
• Suzuki 99000-25100;
• Toyota 08887-80609;
• Chrysler / Mopar J8993704;
• Volvo 1161325-4.

There are lubricants that produce company manufacturers of autocomponents and "chemistry" under their own brands:

• ACDELCO 89021537 (10-4022);
• Federal Mogul F132005;
• FTE Automotive W0109;
• STAHLGRUBER 223 1712, 223 1729;
• TRW Automotive PFG110.

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Such different lubricants

Unfortunately, in the overwhelming majority in auto shops (both online and offline) will usually offer "not that" - that is, anti-graded lubricant, which is simply impossible in the guides!

The fact is that copper and ceramic anti-graded pastes are designed to apply on the back side of the pads and response elements of brake calipers, but they are not suitable for "directions" for several reasons. First, after lubrication with solidol, lithol, "graphitics" and other lubricants based on mineral oils Rubber finger farms almost always swell, cease to stick on the fingers and, in fact, simply cease to perform their function.

Secondly, only special plastic lubricants based on synthetic oils and thickener are suitable for lubricating guides. Due to this, the lubricant becomes a refractory and "does not flow" from the guides after heating, and also does not cinks with time from water exposure and high temperatures. High-quality specialized lubricants are kept to + 300 ° C, but at the same time non-aggressive to seals. In this case, such lubricants are not only not melted, but not dissolved in water, alkalis, diluted acids, brake fluid, as well as methanol and ethanol.

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The use of inappropriate lubricant in practice can lead to the opposite effect - that is, the blurred guide fingers are sealed in the caliper, which is why the floating bracket loses its mobility, and the pads begin to twist and overheat.

At the thematic forums, hundreds of pages are devoted to thematic lubricants for the guides, but at the same time the theoretical calculations and practical reviews often contradict each other, which leads to even greater confusion.

One of the most common universal lubricants is the American SlipKote 220-R DBC, although its price is somewhat "biting" - for a 85-gram tube asked about a thousand rubles! Slipkote lubricant can also be purchased in "disposable" 10-gram bags that cost markedly cheaper.

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In auto shops, often under the guise of a suitable composition for guide fingers offered quite common lubricant Liqui Moly. Bremsen Anti-Quietzch-Paste (Art. 7573, 3077, 3079, 3074) gray-blue color, but the manufacturer itself currently positions it as an anti-graded paste and does not recommend applying for lubricating guides and bookmarks to anthers. It provides a ceramic filler that has a heat resistance up to 1200s, while a synthetic base can thermally degrade much earlier.

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In the production line of this German manufacturer, there is a suitable anti-quietzch-paste paste (art. 7656) of red, which does not affect rubber and plastic elements, but with the heating to + 250c.

In the WAZ car repair manual, it was prescribed to be used to lubricate the guide water-resistant lubricant unison-1, made on the basis of oil oils. As a rule, in our time, it is almost impossible to meet it on sale, but it is quite realistic to find an analog substitute - calcium plastic lubricant Cyatim-221. It is produced according to GOST 9433-80 and is intended for lubricating various rolling bearings. There is also a fluorinated version of Cyatim-221F, which, thanks to the use of ultra-dispersed polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), provides improved anti-promotional and anti-wear qualities.

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Cyatim-221 is characterized by inertia to polymers and rubber, and also provides a temperature range from -60 to + 150c, with the short-term heating to 200 ° C, due to which it is suitable for use on most "low" cars like front-wheel drive fails, but there are several "but "

First, the dropping temperature of CIATIM-221 according to GOST 6793-74 is about 200 degrees - that is, in many cases, with active use of the brakes, it can melt and find out, so it is unlikely to replace the "branded" foreign production lubricants prescribed for Applications on modern foreign cars.

Secondly, the cyatim-221 is very silent and is usually found only in large containers, while it is quite literally several grams for lubricating guides. That is why lubricants usually sell them in small bags - but, as you already understood, it is important not to confuse the anti-graded lubricant for the braking system nodes with "thereby" the product for the guides.

Not always, the lubrication of the guides solves the problem of the knock - as a rule, when working out in the holes, the calipers during riding the parts are still moved, which leads to foreign sounds.

Grease or replace?

For some cars, you can purchase repair kits of calipers, which includes anthers, fingers and fasteners. True, the guides are often manufactured by someone and from something, from the "raw" metal, and the geometric dimensions are not always sustained correctly. Separate mechanics manage not to change their fingers, but, without being causing a slyly, simply ... Split them with a hammer! After that, the guides can be elementary to jam in the caliper ...

This is how the finger looks like after the repair "with the help of a hammer.

Many car owners have come across that the caliper began to thunder even in the warranty period. Appeal to official dealer Often, ended with the replacement of nodes assembly, since not all manufacturers produce separate parts of brake calipers as spare parts. At the same time, for Russian vases and some foreign-made cars and brakes, and "palms", and brake cylinders can be purchased separately, and factory manufacture!