When to change the Opel timing chain: typical symptoms and the right solution to problems. Replacing the timing chain yourself: is it realistic? Signs when it's time to change the timing chain

10.11.2020

From time to time, any mechanism of the car fails, as a result of which an urgent replacement is required. In the case of the timing chain (belt), it is very undesirable to take it to extremes, since in many cases the rupture of this element can easily lead to the need for a major overhaul of the vehicle's power unit. The fact is that the timing chain keeps the pistons and engine valves from meeting, and if this barrier disappears, the impact will lead to deformation of the parts, which, of course, will disrupt the operation of the entire system. After breaking the circuit, restore car motor it is very difficult, and in some cases it is simply impossible. Therefore, you should be aware of the signs of the approach of this moment and about the features of the replacement of the part.

1. When you need to replace the timing chain

The chain (or belt) of the gas distribution mechanism of any car is a kind of connection between and, which are responsible for the operation of the valves. Once popular and forgotten for a while, today it leads over the belt option, since it combined everything in itself best qualities gear and belt transmission:

- reliability and relatively high wear resistance;

Working noiselessness;

Resistant to sudden changes in temperature.

True, there are also disadvantages, which are expressed in strong stretching. So, after some time, the chain itself, and the gears on which it is pulled, can wear out, which will significantly affect the operation of the power unit (and its repair is a very expensive service). At some point, you will need to replace the chain, with which, if available necessary tools, car manuals and a stock of patience, you can handle it yourself.

Most manufacturers do not indicate the exact timing of the replacement of the chain (which cannot be said about timing belts), and its condition has to be recognized by its characteristic symptoms. Often heavy wear manifests itself in increased noise and valve timing(determined using a special diagnostic computer). However, experienced mechanics can easily recognize a malfunction by other manifestations. For example, individual power units make it possible to assess the condition of the timing chain by the output of the tensioner rod.

It is also possible (and necessary) to carry out a preventive inspection after 100,000 kilometers, and the need for replacement is determined by the chain tension. More details can be seen in phases. If the bearing housing mark does not match the sprocket mark, or if the bushings are chipped, immediate replacement is required.

2. The process of replacing the timing chain

At first glance, there is nothing difficult in carrying out an independent replacement of the timing chain: you just need to remove the old part and install a new one. But in practice, everything is far from so simple. The main point to which you should pay attention is the exact coincidence of the marks, otherwise the slightest displacement of them can easily cause a breakdown of the car engine. Therefore, when performing the replacement yourself, try to strictly follow the operating instructions in order to avoid the possibility of damage to the parts of the power unit and more serious problems with the vehicle. However, a complete lack of knowledge and skills in the field of auto repair can lead to sad consequences.

Those motorists who nevertheless decided to take a risk and replace the timing chain on their own, you need to know the algorithm of actions and have an appropriate set of tools. So, as for the latter, for a high-quality replacement procedure, you will need:

- a set of wrenches and socket wrenches (heads);

Torque wrench (retainer camshaft);

Crankshaft puller and gear puller;

Screwdriver Set;

A set of oil seals;

Hammer and punch;

Light strobe;

Silicone sealant;

Lubricating fluid / oil;

Timing chain cover gasket;

New timing chain and gears;

Degreasing agent for the engine;

Capacity for draining liquid;

The replacement of the chain itself consists of two interrelated parts: disassembling the engine and reassembling it, of course, already with new parts.

Dismantling the engine includes the following steps:

1. First, find the manual for the machine (you will need it to disassemble and reassemble various parts).

2. Then thoroughly clean the engine with a degreaser and determine the ignition order of your car.

3. Also make sure that the first cylinder is raised (pull out the spark plug and insert a screwdriver into the hole, the piston should be near the screwdriver head).

4. Disconnect the vehicle battery cables and remove the radiator cap (just make sure it's not hot first).

5. Drain the antifreeze into a container prepared in advance and remove the radiator hoses.

7. Remove fan and water pump;

8. Remove the timing chain cover;

9. Find the mark on the old chain and the same mark on the cog.

10. Crank the engine until the marks line up.

11. Re-mark both chains (scratch with a screwdriver).

12. Dismantle the chain after loosening the gear mechanism.

This completes the first part of the work on replacing the timing chain and you can proceed to the second - assembling the engine.

The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:

1. First, before installing a new chain, lubricate lubricating fluid(oil) gears.

2. Place the part on the gears, aligning them with the marks.

3. Install the appropriate bolts on the camshaft gears and tighten them according to the requirements described in the vehicle owner's manual.

4. Knock out the crankshaft oil seal using a punch and hammer.

5. Install a new oil seal in the timing cover.

6. Lubricate the oil seal with oil.

7. Reinstall the timing chain cover.

8. Install water and fuel pumps, fan and its clamps.

9. In accordance with the requirements of the technical documentation, fill the radiator with coolant.

10. Connect all hoses and chains.

11. Connect the battery.

12. Start the car engine.

13. Check for any drops or leaks.

14. Check the timing of the timing mechanism with a light stroboscope (gives light pulses per unit of time).

3. Difficulties when replacing the timing chain

When installing a new timing chain, it is important to tension it correctly, as too little tension will lead to its sagging, which means there is a possibility of skipping and damage to engine parts. An overly tensioned chain can simply not withstand the pressure and break from excessive tension. In general, if you really decide to cope with the task yourself, then do it very carefully, and if any problems arise, it is better to immediately contact an experienced mechanic, otherwise "self-medication" can lead to more complex breakdowns and large material expenditures ...

Note! Before moving on to direct action, make sure you have exactly what it takes to get the job done well. The means at hand are not suitable for this, since they do not exclude the possibility of slippage and injury from the use of unsuitable instruments. Always handle hot parts, sharp or other hazardous materials with extreme care.

Work on a level, clean surface while maintaining vehicle not only with the help of a jack, but also with additional supports. The option of working on an unreliable and non-rigid surface should be completely ruled out. Never leave radiator antifreeze in an open container and unattended, as it is poisonous and dangerous to people and animals. All such liquids should be stored only in special, tightly closed containers.

The car owner periodically encounters breakdowns. Some can be eliminated quickly, while others will have to tinker. The problem we are going to talk about today belongs to the second category. In order to change the timing chain, serious technical skills are required. But this does not mean at all that independent replacement is impossible.

Reasons for replacing the timing chain

It must be replaced in two cases:

In the event of a break.
In case of severe sprain.

An open circuit is an emergency. If this happened on the fly, all valves in the engine are almost guaranteed to be damaged. They will have to be changed along with the chain, and replacement (with preliminary lapping) will require specialist intervention and will cost the car owner a lot.

Chain stretching is much more common. As a rule, it is associated with the so-called metal fatigue. Usually the chain stretches slightly after 200-300 thousand kilometers (but this only applies to original, high-quality chains from the car manufacturer, lower-quality chains can stretch even after 80-100 thousand kilometers). Stretching leads to a violation of the coordination between the camshaft and crankshaft, which in turn affects the operation of the entire motor. It becomes unstable, at low revs the engine loses throttle response, jerks appear when starting off, etc.

How to determine wear

the most reliable way is computer diagnostics... The car is sent to a car service, installed on a special stand, and the program accurately determines the degree of desynchronization between the crankshaft and the camshaft, after which the car owner receives a graph of the torques of these shafts, for clarity. This method is especially relevant for those who buy a car from hands. It's no secret that unscrupulous sellers often twist the mileage counters on cars, assuring buyers that the car has passed quite a bit. Their motives are clear: twisting the mileage is much easier than changing a stretched part;
second sign of wear: the P0355 code is constantly on on the control panel. The instructions say that it appears when the crankshaft sensor is faulty. But in practice, this may mean that an unscrupulous seller changed this sensor (or even the entire control unit) before the sale in order to mask another error, and the stretched chain did not go anywhere;
third sign of wear: extended tensioner rod. To look at it, the car owner will have to remove the front engine cover. If the tensioner has moved 8-10 mm from its original position, the chain is stretched and must be replaced;

Choice: which spare part is better

There can be only one advice here: you need to buy a spare part produced by the car manufacturer. And you need to do this only in specialized service centers... You should never rely on third party products. Because this is a too critical engine part, problems with which can lead either to very expensive repairs or to complete failure of the engine. Yes, branded chains are expensive. However, this is not a spare part that should be saved on.

Timing chain replacement procedure

Before changing the chain, you should decide on the tools that you need for this.

Tools and supplies

New chain from the car manufacturer.
Open-end wrench set.
A set of spanner keys.
Flat blade screwdriver.
Hammer.
Chisel.
Mounting blade.
A piece of wire (diameter 0.5 cm, length 30 cm).

Replacement Sequence

The machine is put into neutral. The front cover is removed from the machine engine to provide access to shafts and gears.
The crankshaft is manually rotated until the mark on the camshaft sprocket matches the mark on the engine housing. There is also a mark on the crankshaft itself. And it must also match the mark on the case.
The marks installed on the camshaft and the timing case must completely match
The lock washer, located under the camshaft sprocket bolt, is gently unbent with a chisel and hammer.
The camshaft lock washer is unbent with a chisel and hammer
The car is now set to the fourth speed, after which the handbrake is applied.
Use a spanner wrench to loosen the camshaft sprocket mounting bolt.
The nut on the camshaft is loosened with a spanner wrench by 17
After that, the timing chain damper is unscrewed and removed (it is most convenient to remove it with a hook from the wire):
The chain guide can be removed and removed with a wire hook
Next, the tensioner shoe is removed (it is indicated in the photo with the number 1). To do this, bolt 2 is completely unscrewed with a 14 open-end wrench, after which the shoe, together with the tensioner, is removed from the engine:
The tensioner shoe is marked in the photo with the number 1, the bolt that holds it - with the number 2
Now the sprocket is unscrewed with a spanner key auxiliary units but not completely. It weakens slightly, but remains on its shaft.
Helper sprocket is weakened but not removed
As the chain is loose, the chain hooks into the wire hook and is removed from the engine:
The old timing chain is retrieved with a wire hook
The new part fits over the previously removed camshaft sprocket. And only after that the asterisk is set in place:
The new chain slides over the camshaft sprocket, which is then installed in the engine.
After that, it is checked whether the marks on the asterisks and shafts match, if not, the neutral gear is switched on, and crankshaft manually scrolls to match. After that, the bolt on the camshaft sprocket is profitable (but in no case is it tightened).
Now the chain damper and the tensioner shoe are installed in their original place.
Then the nuts on the sprockets of the two shafts are tightened, after which the crankshaft is turned 3-4 times. In this case, the coincidence of the marks on the asterisks and the body is monitored. If there are no discrepancies, the new spare part is abundantly lubricated with engine oil, after which the front engine cover is installed in its original place.

Video: DIY chain installation

Replacing the timing chain is a complex process. It takes 5 hours even for experienced craftsmen. A car owner who decides to carry out this procedure on his own must clearly understand what he is doing, since the improper repair can be very serious. Particular attention should be paid to the correct placement of the marks. Perfect match and perfect synchronicity must be achieved, because without this the replacement cannot be considered successful.

A typical seller's text is a car with a timing chain drive, looks like this: “This is a chain, not a belt. This means that there is no need to waste time and money on replacing the timing belt ”. Many buyers fall for this trick. Ultimately, the chain is broken, and the engine needs overhaul... Remember: the era of chains that can serve more than a million kilometers is long over with the old Mercedes!

A broken timing belt is a serious accident, but in most cases there is hope to save the engine. A similar situation with the timing chain can end up much worse. The chain is much more massive than the belt, and in the event of a break, as a rule, the engine “tears and tosses”, “taking with it” whole pieces of metal. In addition, pistons and valves are severely damaged. Very rarely, after the timing chain is broken, the engine can be reanimated with little blood.

It's all about the oil

The estimated resource of the modern chain is at least 200-250 thousand km. However, it often does not last that long. Cases of chain breakage at a mileage of 100,000 km, and even 60,000 km, are widely known. The fact that this only happens with certain car models suggests a birth defect. Moreover, a "catastrophe" does not always occur due to poor-quality manufacture of the chain and tensioner. Sometimes the problem is caused by a lack of lubrication. This happened with the first gasoline engines Peugeot-Citroen 1.6 THP (Euro 4) and 2-liter diesel BMW engine(BMW 3 E90, 320d N47).

So, non-compliance with the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the amount, type of oil and replacement intervals greatly increases the likelihood of a malfunction. Do not forget that almost every chain is held in tension by a tensioner, the efficiency of which directly depends on the pressure in the smear system. A typical example is the Fiat 1.3 Multijet turbo diesel, which is used in Opel models with 1.3 CDTI. With frequent movements in urban areas, the oil level drops dramatically. If this is not noticed in time, then the pressure in the system begins to decrease, and, consequently, the tension of the chain.

But, of course, it is not without errors in the design of the structure of the chains and tensioners themselves. A striking example is gasoline engines concern VW 1.4 TSI and 1.2 TSI.

Timing and symptoms

Most manufacturers do not specify a rigid timing for timing chain replacement, as is the case with timing belts. Chain wear is determined by symptoms. As a rule, this is increased noise and a shift in valve timing (detected using a diagnostic computer). Good mechanics can easily spot a problem. Some motors allow the chain condition to be assessed by the tensioner rod output.

When buying a used car with a timing chain drive, the monitoring of the chain condition should be entrusted to a mechanic. Unlike belt motors, you should not follow the “just in case” replacement rule. If an inspection reveals the need to replace the chain, then you will have to prepare from 500 to several thousand dollars. This is a serious reason to bargain with the car seller for secondary market... In any case, the replacement should not be delayed.

When operating a car with a timing chain drive, you should be pedantry in matters concerning engine oil... It is imperative that only high-quality oil be used. Regular replacement is another one important element care not only for the engine, but also for the timing chain drive. As a rule, the lubricant should be changed at least once every 15,000 km. If the car is operated mainly in urban driving conditions (frequent starts, a large proportion of the time spent on Idling), it is better to shorten the replacement interval to 10,000 km.

It is necessary to pay attention to unusual sounds (noise, knocking), especially appearing immediately after starting or during prolonged idling. Having found the characteristic signs of "malaise", it is worth visiting a car service. Perhaps these are the first symptoms of a malfunctioning timing drive that cannot be ignored.

Two ways to place the timing chain in the engine

In engine construction, two types of timing drive arrangement are used. Let's call them forward and backward. "Front" when the timing drive is located on the same side as drive belt mounted units. "Rear" when the timing drive is located on the flywheel and gearbox side. Typically, manufacturers use a front-mounted timing drive, as it makes it easier to access and repair the system. However, for several years, companies such as Audi and BMW have been practicing placing the timing drive on the rear of the engine: Audi A6 C6 3.0 TDI, BMW 320d E90 (N47), BMW 530 F10. This greatly complicates the maintenance of the timing. Fortunately, such bold solutions are only used in some timing chain motors, and never used in timing belt engines.

Timing chain wear symptoms

Rough and uneven idling (the result of a change in valve timing);

Chirping and rustling - especially at idle, when the oil pressure is very low;

Maximum tensioner output (visible after removing the cover);

Sprocket teeth wear (visible after removing the cover);

The corresponding parameters taken from the phase sensor (using a diagnostic tester).

What you need to know about timing chain drive

In most new cars, the chain life is shorter than the engine life;

Pay attention to unusual noises, especially after startup;

Avoid prolonging the oil change period - the more often the better;

Normal oil pressure ensures that the chain tensioner works;

If you change the chain, be sure to replace the gears (sprockets) and guides - they also wear out;

When replacing, use original components or quality substitutes. Component manufacturers such as Febi, Ruville, SWAG have proven themselves quite well.

Reliable and unreliable timing chain drives

However, manufacturers still produce cars with a timing chain that can last the entire life of the engine. As a rule, problems with such timing do not arise for several hundred thousand kilometers. However, this does not relieve the owner of the responsibility to regularly check the condition of the timing chain drive.

Cars with durable timing chain: Ford mondeo 1.8 TDCi, Mercedes C 200 CDI W202, Mercedes W124, Toyota Yaris 1.4 D-4D.

Cars with a short-lived timing chain: Audi A8 3.0 TDI (D3), Mazda CX-7 2.3 Turbo, Skoda Fabia 1.2 TSI, BMW 118d (N47), Peugeot 207 1.6 THP, VW Golf V 1.4 TSI.

The chain of the gas distribution mechanism of the engine - it is "endless", "no problem", "armor piercing" - there are thousands of epithets in its justification, and all of them are only positive. Of course, any car dealer will tell you - yes, there is a chain right there, so you can’t worry about replacement after 100 - 120,000 kilometers, you bought it, and what they say - forgot it! But is this really so, is it really not grindable, and in the end what resource does it have? Let's figure it out ...

Needless to say, a chain is definitely better than a belt, in terms of reliability it seems to have no competition. After all, all elements are made of metal and, as we know, it is much more reliable than rubber, plastic and fabric threads in a belt structure.

Why don't some manufacturers supply the chain?

Right now, the question seems to be hanging - why some manufacturers do not install them, but make belts? It's not practical, is it?

There are several answers:

This is noise. Whatever one may say, but even a perfectly tuned motor with a chain is still noisier than with a belt. Well, try to roll metal and rubber links on the asphalt yourself - you will understand what is noisier.

Design feature. The fact is that some engines, for the sake of silence, cannot use their "metal brother", because the belt drive is located outside the engine, that is, it rotates in the air. And so just taking and fixing the metal links will not work.
It is believed that the belt better grips the gears of the shafts, both camshaft and crankshaft. After all, the gear really has wide strips for engagement, but the chain has teeth, and even in oil! No, of course, they are also very effective in engaging the toe, and usually there are two rows of them. But as some manufacturers assure, they can jump over a tooth much faster than a belt.

Well, and actually the last one - tension. It is more difficult to tighten the chain mechanism than the belt. After all, the belt bends easily, and it is, again, in the air. But the opponent is inside in oil, and it is more difficult to pull it up - you cannot bend it properly!

Some write that it is also more difficult to change the chain mechanism, because you really need to disassemble almost half of the engine, but at the belt drive, I unscrewed the casing, removed and quickly put another one on! There is some truth in this, but in any case you will change the belt more often than the chain.

About engine maintenance

To begin with, I would like to say that the condition of the oil greatly affects the resource of the chain. It is inside, therefore, the better it is lubricated, the more the resource will grow. Also indirectly frequent replacement, carries away from the engine any debris such as sand, dirt, etc., which breaks and wears out the chain mechanism, because sand can penetrate anywhere, including into the connecting links. The new oil makes the pistons slide better, which relieves unnecessary stress on the chain mechanism.

In general, the result is this - in order to increase the resource, you just need to change the oil more often, at least by 1000 kilometers, but ahead of schedule. That is, the dealer claims 15,000 - change after 13 - 14,000, and ideally after 10,000, then the chain will last much longer.

Conventional engines

You know, I caught myself thinking that nowhere is there information about how long it takes to change the chain mechanism. That is, if you take a regular car with a conventional naturally aspirated engine (not a turbo - more about that below), the resource is often not limited by the manufacturer!

However, you can find information like this:

Across high mileage, about 150 - 200,000 kilometers, it is worth listening attentively to the operation of the engine, if there is excessive beating and noise. If it manifests itself, you need to diagnose the circuit and, if necessary, change it.

That is, the main diagnostics for sound, and not after a certain mileage. Therefore, the resource differs from manufacturer to manufacturer, and from owner to owner.

However, if you knock out the numbers, it turns out:

Taking into account long maintenance (about 15,000 and more)

The chain serves about 150 - 170,000 kilometers.

Taking into account short maintenance (approximately 10-13000 km)

The chain can travel 300 to 350,000 kilometers.

If you take care of the car, then the chain mechanism is really the last thing you change! But wait, my friend changed in 15 - 20,000, what's the catch? YES, nothing, just your friend has an engine from VOLKSWAGEN, that is, a turbocharged, and even weak, volume of 1.2 - 1.4 liters.

Turbocharged engines

Quite different laws work here, turbocharged engines have much more torque and effort, respectively, more horsepower!

Therefore, it is not surprising that the chain mechanism has much less resource, the chain simply stretches here. Then it jumps to the tooth - the engine does not work normally - it consumes a lot of fuel, starts triplet, does not pull, or does not start at all.

Moreover, it manifests itself on weak engines, for example such as 1.2 - 1.4 TSI. There was a constructive error, the width of the metal is dense - narrow.

Now think about the numbers with which VAG delighted the owners (albeit unofficially):

1.2 TSI engine - replacement after 30,000

1.4 TSI engine (122 HP) - 80,000

Engine 1.8 - 2.0 TSI - 120,000

That is, to call such races large - the language does not turn! However, just imagine how the timing belt would work in such conditions, in general, would it wear out after 10,000?

If we sum up the average figures for turbo engines:

The chain resource is about 120 - 150,000 kilometers. However, you need to read the maintenance regulations, some manufacturers have them strictly prescribed.

During a cold start, the engine emits a suspicious metallic "growl" for several seconds? In 90% of cases, this is caused by a problem with the timing chain. It is necessary to check its condition and, if something is wrong, replace the component. If you do not carry out the replacement in time, you will have to spend a lot of money on repairs in the future.

What is a timing chain and is it subject to wear

One of the main elements of the engine gas distribution mechanism is a special belt, which ensures the well-coordinated operation of each component of this part of the car. Many machines use a chain instead of a belt. Thanks to it, the engine mechanisms rotate synchronously and function normally for a long time.

The chain runs whenever the engine is running. The load is high enough that the part gradually wears out and fails over time. Sometimes the chain just stretches. Sometimes a tooth flies off from it, which leads to slippage. Even the smallest damage will result in out-of-sync components and increase the risk of damage to engine valves. If the problem is not corrected in time, it may break and camshaft... It will be necessary to change both it and the cylinder block gasket, which is expensive.

How to understand what needs to be changed: the frequency according to the regulations

Many auto manufacturers say the chain is designed to last the entire life of the vehicle. Alas, this is only true when using the machine in ideal conditions. Longitudinal vibrations at high speeds cause excessive tension on the component and subsequent fracture.

Typically, this part needs to be replaced every 100,000 km. If there is a knock and a metallic rumble while driving, it means that the chain is stretched and slips. If such signs appear, replacement is required immediately! A decrease in engine power, a thick gray exhaust, loud noises in the muffler, a sudden increase in engine temperature for no apparent reason are also possible - it is by these signs, which most often appear not alone, but together, that one can easily determine the wear of an element.

Have you bought any used car? Be sure to inspect the chain, even if the owner says he recently changed it.

In some cars, in case of problems with the gas distribution mechanism, dashboard a special indicator lights up. If the chain is not replaced in a timely manner, it will jump and damage the block head. Further events depend on many factors. In the most favorable case, the valves are simply bent. In the worst case, their constituent elements are torn and the cylinder block becomes unusable.

How to choose the right spare part

Timing chains are single-row and double-row. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

When installing a single-row version, the engine power increases slightly, the noise level decreases. The fact is that power unit it is easier to roll one row of a chain than two.
The double-row chain leads to an increase in the noise level while driving, but it is much more reliable. Such a product is designed for a long service life.

Chains are subdivided into several types according to the number of links. The choice depends on the make of the car and the characteristics of the engine used in it. So, in VAZ 2101 and 2102 cars and other cars with an engine displacement of 1.2 and 1.3 liters, models with 114 links are used. A 116-link chain will come in handy for the owner of a car with an engine capacity of 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 liters (these are VAZ 2103, 2107 and Niva). It is better to check the exact information on the suitable kit in the documentation for the vehicle.

DIY component replacement

Want to save money? The chain can be easily replaced with your own hands. However, this task is not an easy one, so it is better for a beginner not to take on it. Prepare to spend at least 3-4 hours. You also need to prepare a place and a set of tools in advance.

Consider the process of replacing a chain using an example Nissan almera N16 Classic.