Reliable Japanese engines Toyota series A. "Reliable Japanese engines"

19.11.2019

The most common and most widely repaired Japanese engine is the (4,5,7) A-FE series. Even a novice mechanic, diagnostician knows about possible problems engines of this series. I will try to highlight (put together) the problems of these engines. There are not many of them, but they cause a lot of trouble to their owners.

Sensors.

Oxygen sensor - Lambda probe.

"Oxygen sensor" - used to fix oxygen in exhaust gases. Its role is invaluable in the fuel trim process. Read more about sensor problems in article.

Many owners turn to diagnostics for a reason increased fuel consumption... One of the reasons is a banal break in the heater in the oxygen sensor. The error is fixed by the control unit code number 21. The heater can be checked with a conventional tester on the sensor contacts (R-14 Ohm). Fuel consumption increases due to the lack of fuel supply correction during warming up. You will not be able to restore the heater - only replacing the sensor will help. The cost of a new sensor is high, but it does not make sense to install a used one (the resource of their operating time is large, so this is a lottery). In such a situation, as an alternative, you can install equally reliable universal sensors NTK, Bosch or original Denso.

The quality of the sensors is not inferior to the original, and the price is significantly lower. The only problem could be correct connection When the sensor sensitivity decreases, the fuel consumption also increases (by 1-3 liters). The performance of the sensor is checked with an oscilloscope on the block diagnostic connector, or directly on the sensor chip (number of switchings). The sensitivity drops when the sensor is poisoned (contaminated) with combustion products.

Engine temperature sensor.

The "temperature sensor" is used to register the temperature of the motor. If the sensor does not work properly, the owner will face a lot of problems. In the event of a break in the measuring element of the sensor, the control unit replaces the sensor readings and fixes its value at 80 degrees and fixes error 22. The engine, with such a malfunction, will operate in normal mode, but only while the engine is warm. Once the engine has cooled down, it will be problematic to start it without doping, due to the short opening time of the injectors. It is not uncommon for the resistance of the sensor to change chaotically when the engine is running on H.H. In this case, the revolutions will float. This defect is easy to fix on the scanner, observing the temperature reading. On a warm engine, it should be stable and not change randomly from 20 to 100 degrees.

With such a defect in the sensor, a "black acrid exhaust" is possible, unstable operation on the Х.Х. and as a consequence, increased consumption, as well as the impossibility of starting a heated engine. It will be possible to start the engine only after 10 minutes of rest. If there is no complete confidence in the correct operation of the sensor, its readings can be substituted by including a variable resistor of 1kΩ, or a constant 300Ω in its circuit, for further verification. By changing the sensor readings, it is easy to control the change in speed at different temperatures.

Throttle position sensor.

Position sensor throttle shows on-board computer in what position is the throttle.

A lot of cars went through the disassembly assembly procedure. These are the so-called "constructors". When removing the engine in the field and subsequent assembly, the sensors suffered, on which the engine is often leaned against. If the TPS sensor breaks, the engine stops throttling normally. The engine chokes when accelerating. The machine switches incorrectly. The control unit fixes error 41. When replacing a new sensor, it is necessary to adjust so that the control unit correctly sees the X.X sign when the gas pedal is fully released (throttle valve closed). In the absence of a sign of idling, adequate regulation of X.X will not be carried out, and there will be no forced idle mode when braking by the engine, which again will entail increased fuel consumption. On engines 4A, 7A, the sensor does not require adjustment, it is installed without the possibility of rotation-adjustment. However, in practice, there are frequent cases of bending of the petal, which moves the sensor core. In this case, there is no sign of x / x. Adjustment of the correct position can be carried out using a tester without using a scanner - on the basis of idling.

THROTTLE POSITION …… 0%
IDLE SIGNAL ……………… .ON

MAP absolute pressure sensor

The pressure sensor shows the computer the real vacuum in the manifold, according to its readings, the composition of the fuel mixture is formed.

This sensor is the most reliable of all installed on japanese cars... Its reliability is simply amazing. But it also has a lot of problems, mainly due to improper assembly. It either breaks the receiving "nipple", and then seals any air passage with glue, or breaks the tightness of the supply tube. With such a rupture, the fuel consumption increases, the level of CO in the exhaust increases sharply up to 3%. It is very easy to observe the sensor's operation using the scanner. The line INTAKE MANIFOLD shows the vacuum in the intake manifold, which is measured by the MAP sensor. If the wiring is broken, the ECU registers error 31. At the same time, the opening time of the injectors sharply increases to 3.5-5ms. When gas is re-gassed, a black exhaust appears, the candles are planted, a shaking appears on the X.H. and stopping the engine.

Knock sensor.

The sensor is installed to register detonation knocks (explosions) and indirectly serves as a "corrector" for the ignition timing.

The recording element of the sensor is a piezoplate. In the event of a sensor malfunction, or a break in the wiring, at overgazings over 3.5-4 tons. The ECU registers an error 52. You can check the performance with an oscilloscope, or by measuring the resistance between the sensor terminal and the case (if there is resistance, the sensor needs to be replaced).

Crankshaft sensor.

The crankshaft sensor generates pulses from which the computer calculates the rotational speed crankshaft engine. This is the main sensor by which all motor operation is synchronized.

A crankshaft sensor is installed on the 7A series engines. A conventional inductive sensor, similar to the ABC sensor, is practically trouble-free in operation. But embarrassment also happens. With a turn-to-turn closure inside the winding, the generation of pulses is disrupted at certain speeds. This manifests itself as a limitation of engine speed in the range of 3.5-4 t. Revolutions. A kind of cutoff, only on low revs... It is quite difficult to detect an interturn short circuit. The oscilloscope does not show a decrease in the amplitude of pulses or a change in frequency (with acceleration), and it is rather difficult to notice changes in Ohm fractions with a tester. If you experience symptoms of speed limitation at 3-4 thousand, just replace the sensor with a known good one. In addition, a lot of troubles are caused by damage to the driving ring, which is broken by mechanics, making replacement work front oil seal crankshaft or timing belt. Having broken the teeth of the crown, and restoring them by welding, they achieve only a visible absence of damage. At the same time, the crankshaft position sensor ceases to adequately read information, the ignition timing begins to change chaotically, which leads to a loss of power, unstable work engine and increased fuel consumption.

Injectors (nozzles).

Injectors are solenoid valves which inject fuel under pressure into intake manifold engine. The operation of the injectors is controlled by the engine computer.

During many years of operation, the nozzles and needles of the injectors are covered with resins and gasoline dust. All this naturally interferes with the correct spray pattern and reduces the performance of the nozzle. In case of heavy pollution, noticeable shaking of the engine is observed, and fuel consumption increases. It is realistic to determine the clogging by conducting a gas analysis, according to the oxygen readings in the exhaust, it is possible to judge the correctness of the filling. A reading above one percent will indicate the need to flush the injectors (with the correct timing and normal fuel pressure). Or by installing the injectors on the stand, and checking the performance in tests, in comparison with the new injector. The nozzles are very efficiently washed by Laurel and Vince, both in CIP installations and in ultrasound.

Idle valve, IAC

The valve is responsible for the engine speed in all modes (heating, idling, load).

During operation, the valve petal becomes dirty and the stem wedges. The revolutions freeze on heating or on H.H. (due to a wedge). Tests for changing the speed in scanners during diagnostics for this motor are not provided. You can evaluate the valve's performance by changing the readings of the temperature sensor. Put the engine in "cold" mode. Or, removing the winding from the valve, twist the valve magnet with your hands. Sticking and wedge will be felt immediately. If it is impossible to easily dismantle the valve winding (for example, on the GE series), you can check its operability by connecting to one of the control outputs and measuring the duty cycle of the pulses, while simultaneously monitoring the speed of H.H. and changing the load on the engine. On a fully warmed up engine, the duty cycle is approximately 40%, changing the load (including electrical consumers), it is possible to estimate an adequate increase in speed in response to a change in the duty cycle. With mechanical jamming of the valve, there is a smooth increase in the duty cycle, which does not entail a change in the speed of H.H. You can restore work by cleaning carbon deposits and dirt with a carburetor cleaner with the winding removed. Further adjustment of the valve is to set the H.H. speed. On a fully warmed-up engine, by rotating the winding on the mounting bolts, tabular revolutions are achieved for of this type car (on the tag on the hood). By pre-installing jumper E1-TE1 in the diagnostic block. On the "younger" motors 4A, 7A, the valve was changed. Instead of the usual two windings, a microcircuit was installed in the body of the valve winding. Changed the valve power and the color of the winding plastic (black). It is already pointless to measure the resistance of the windings at the terminals on it. The valve is supplied with power and a square-wave variable duty cycle control signal. For the impossibility of removing the winding, non-standard fasteners were installed. But the problem of the stock wedge remained. Now if you clean it with a conventional cleaner, the grease is washed out from the bearings (the further result is predictable, the same wedge, but due to the bearing). It is necessary to completely dismantle the valve from the throttle body and then carefully flush the stem with a petal.

Ignition system. Candles.

A very large percentage of cars come to service with problems in the ignition system. When operating on low-quality gasoline, spark plugs are the first to suffer. They are covered with a red coating (ferrosis). There will be no high-quality sparking with such candles. The engine will run intermittently, with gaps, fuel consumption increases, the level of CO in the exhaust rises. Sandblasting cannot clean such candles. Only chemistry (silite for a couple of hours) or replacement will help. Another problem is the increase in clearance (simple wear). Drying of the rubber tips of high-voltage wires, water that got during the washing of the motor, provoke the formation of a conductive track on the rubber tips.

Because of them, sparking will not be inside the cylinder, but outside it. With smooth throttling, the engine runs stably, and with sharp throttling, it crushes. In this position, it is necessary to replace both candles and wires at the same time. But sometimes (in the field), if replacement is impossible, you can solve the problem with an ordinary knife and a piece of emery stone (fine fraction). With a knife we cut off the conductive path in the wire, and with a stone we remove the strip from the ceramic of the candle. It should be noted that it is impossible to remove the rubber band from the wire, this will lead to the complete inoperability of the cylinder.
Another problem is related to the incorrect procedure for replacing the plugs. The wires are pulled out of the wells forcibly, ripping off the metal tip of the rein, causing misfires and floating rpm. When diagnosing the ignition system, always check the performance of the ignition coil on the high-voltage arrester. The simplest check is to look at the spark on the spark gap while the engine is running.

If the spark disappears or becomes threadlike, this indicates an interturn short circuit in the coil or a problem in high-voltage wires... Wire breakage is checked with a resistance tester. Small wire 2-3kΩ, further to increase the long 10-12kΩ. The resistance of the closed coil can also be checked with a tester. The secondary resistance of the broken coil will be less than 12kΩ.

The next generation coils (remote) do not suffer from such ailments (4A.7A), their failure is minimal. Proper cooling and wire thickness eliminated this problem.

Another problem is the leaking oil seal in the distributor. Oil on the sensors corrodes the insulation. And when exposed to high voltage, the slider is oxidized (covered with a green coating). The coal turns sour. All this leads to the disruption of sparking. In motion, chaotic lumbago is observed (into the intake manifold, into the muffler) and crushing.

Subtle faults

On modern engines 4A, 7A, the Japanese changed the firmware of the control unit (apparently for more quick warm-up engine). The change lies in the fact that the engine reaches H.H. rpm only at a temperature of 85 degrees. The design of the engine cooling system has also been changed. Now the small cooling circle passes intensively through the block head (not through the branch pipe behind the engine, as it was before). Of course, the cooling of the head has become more efficient, and the engine as a whole has become more efficient. But in winter, with such cooling when driving, the engine temperature reaches a temperature of 75-80 degrees. And as a result, constant warming up revolutions (1100-1300), increased fuel consumption and anxiety of the owners. You can deal with this problem either by insulating the engine more strongly, or by changing the resistance of the temperature sensor (by deceiving the ECU), or by replacing the thermostat for the winter with more high temperature discoveries.
Butter
Owners pour oil into the engine without special analysis without thinking about the consequences. Few people understand that different types of oils are not compatible and, when mixed, form an insoluble slurry (coke), which leads to the complete destruction of the engine.

All this plasticine cannot be washed off with chemistry, it can only be cleaned mechanically. It should be understood that if you do not know what type of old oil, then you should use flushing before changing. And more advice to the owners. Pay attention to the color of the dipstick handle. He yellow color... If the color of the oil in your engine is darker than the color of the handle, then it's time to make a change, and not wait for the virtual mileage recommended by the engine oil manufacturer.
Air filter.

The most inexpensive and readily available item is air filter... Owners very often forget about replacing it, without thinking about the likely increase in fuel consumption. Often due to clogged filter the combustion chamber is very heavily contaminated with oily burnt deposits, valves and candles are heavily contaminated. When diagnosing, it can be mistakenly assumed that wear is to blame. valve stem seals, but the root cause is a clogged air filter, which increases the vacuum in the intake manifold when contaminated. Of course, in this case, the caps will also have to be changed.
Some owners do not even notice about garage rodents living in the air filter housing. Which speaks of their utter disregard for the car.

Fuel filter also deserves attention. If it is not replaced in time (15-20 thousand mileage), the pump starts to work with overload, the pressure drops, and as a result, it becomes necessary to replace the pump. Plastic parts pump impeller and check valve wear prematurely.

Pressure drops. It should be noted that the operation of the motor is possible at a pressure of up to 1.5 kg (with a standard 2.4-2.7 kg). At reduced pressure, there are constant lumbago in the intake manifold, the start is problematic (after). Traction is noticeably reduced. Check the pressure correctly with a pressure gauge (access to the filter is not difficult). In the field, you can use the "return filling test". If, when the engine is running, less than one liter flows out of the gas return hose in 30 seconds, it is possible to judge the reduced pressure. You can use an ammeter to indirectly determine the pump's performance. If the current consumed by the pump is less than 4 amperes, then the pressure is sagged. You can measure the current on the diagnostic block.

When using a modern tool, the process of replacing the filter takes no more than half an hour. Previously, it took a lot of time. Mechanics always hoped in case that they were lucky and the lower fitting did not rust. But it often did. I had to puzzle for a long time how to use a gas wrench to hook the rolled nut of the lower fitting. And sometimes the process of replacing the filter turned into a "movie show" with the removal of the tube leading to the filter. Today, no one is afraid to make this replacement.

Control block.

Up to 98 Year of release the control units did not have enough serious problems during operation. The blocks had to be repaired only because of the hard polarity reversal. It is important to note that all outputs of the control unit are signed. It is easy to find on the board the required sensor lead to check or wire continuity. Parts are reliable and stable at low temperatures.

In conclusion, I would like to dwell a little on gas distribution. Many owners "with hands" perform the belt replacement procedure on their own (although this is not correct, they cannot properly tighten the crankshaft pulley). Mechanics make a quality replacement within two hours (maximum). If the belt breaks, the valves do not meet the piston and the engine does not fatally break down. Everything is calculated to the smallest detail.
We tried to tell you about the most common problems on engines of this series. The engine is very simple and reliable, and under the condition of very tough operation on "water - iron gasoline" and dusty roads of our great and mighty Motherland and the "auto" mentality of the owners. Having endured all the bullying, he continues to delight his reliable and stable work, having won the status of the most reliable Japanese engine.
Vladimir Bekrenev, Khabarovsk.
Andrey Fedorov, Novosibirsk.

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Reliable japanese engines

04.04.2008

The most widespread and by far the most widely repaired Japanese engine is the Toyota 4, 5, 7 A - FE engine. Even a novice mechanic, diagnostician is aware of possible problems with engines of this series.

I will try to highlight (put together) the problems of these engines. There are few of them, but they cause a lot of trouble to their owners.

Date from scanner:

On the scanner, you can see a short but capacious date, consisting of 16 parameters, by which you can realistically evaluate the operation of the main engine sensors.
Sensors:

Oxygen sensor - Lambda probe

Many owners turn to diagnostics due to increased fuel consumption. One of the reasons is a banal break in the heater in the oxygen sensor. The error is recorded by the code control unit number 21.

The heater can be checked with a conventional tester on the sensor contacts (R- 14 Ohm)

Fuel consumption increases due to the lack of correction during warming up. You will not be able to restore the heater - only replacement will help. The cost of a new sensor is high, but it does not make sense to install a used one (the resource of their operating time is large, so this is a lottery). In such a situation, the less reliable NTK universal sensors can be installed as an alternative.

Their service life is short, and the quality is poor, so such a replacement is a temporary measure, and it should be done with caution.

With a decrease in the sensitivity of the sensor, an increase in fuel consumption occurs (by 1-3 liters). The performance of the sensor is checked with an oscilloscope on the diagnostic connector block, or directly on the sensor chip (number of switchings).

temperature sensor

If the sensor does not work properly, the owner will face a lot of problems. In the event of a break in the measuring element of the sensor, the control unit replaces the sensor readings and fixes its value at 80 degrees and fixes error 22. The engine, in case of such a malfunction, will operate in normal mode, but only while the engine is warm. Once the engine has cooled down, it will be problematic to start it without doping, due to the short opening time of the injectors.

It is not uncommon for the resistance of the sensor to change chaotically when the engine is running on H.H. - the revolutions will float.

This defect can be easily fixed on the scanner by observing the temperature reading. On a warm engine, it should be stable and not change randomly from 20 to 100 degrees.

With such a defect in the sensor, "black exhaust" is possible, unstable operation on Х.Х. and, as a consequence, increased consumption, as well as the impossibility of starting "hot". Only after 10 minutes of rest. If there is no complete confidence in the correct operation of the sensor, its readings can be substituted by including a variable resistor of 1kΩ, or a constant 300Ω in its circuit, for further verification. By changing the sensor readings, it is easy to control the change in speed at different temperatures.

Throttle position sensor

A lot of cars go through the disassembly assembly procedure. These are the so-called "constructors". When removing the engine in the field and subsequent assembly, the sensors suffer, which are often leaned against the engine. If the TPS sensor breaks, the engine stops throttling normally. The engine chokes when accelerating. The machine switches incorrectly. The control unit fixes error 41. When replacing a new sensor, it is necessary to adjust so that the control unit correctly sees the X.X sign when the gas pedal is fully released (throttle valve closed). In the absence of a sign of idling, adequate regulation of the Х.Х will not be carried out. and there will be no forced idling during engine braking, which again will entail increased fuel consumption. On engines 4A, 7A, the sensor does not require adjustment, it is installed without the possibility of rotation.
THROTTLE POSITION …… 0%
IDLE SIGNAL ……………… .ON

MAP absolute pressure sensor

This sensor is the most reliable of all installed on Japanese cars. Its reliability is simply amazing. But it also has a lot of problems, mainly due to improper assembly.

Either the receiving "nipple" is broken, and then any passage of air is sealed with glue, or the tightness of the supply tube is violated.

With such a rupture, fuel consumption increases, the level of CO in the exhaust rises up to 3%. It is very easy to observe the operation of the sensor using a scanner. The line INTAKE MANIFOLD shows the vacuum in the intake manifold, which is measured by the MAP sensor. If the wiring is broken, the ECU registers error 31. At the same time, the opening time of the injectors sharply increases to 3.5-5 ms. During gas re-gases, a black exhaust appears, the candles are planted, there is a shaking on the X.X. and stopping the engine.

Knock sensor

You can check the performance with an oscilloscope, or by measuring the resistance between the sensor terminal and the case (if there is resistance, the sensor needs to be replaced).

Crankshaft sensor

A crankshaft sensor is installed on the 7A series engines. A conventional inductive sensor, similar to the ABC sensor, is practically trouble-free in operation. But embarrassment also happens. With a turn-to-turn closure inside the winding, the generation of pulses is disrupted at certain speeds. This manifests itself as a limitation of engine speed in the range of 3.5-4 t. Revolutions. A kind of cutoff, only at low revs. It is quite difficult to detect an interturn short circuit. The oscilloscope does not show a decrease in the amplitude of pulses or a change in frequency (with acceleration), and it is rather difficult to notice changes in Ohm fractions with a tester. If you experience symptoms of speed limitation at 3-4 thousand, just replace the sensor with a known good one. In addition, a lot of trouble is caused by damage to the driving ring, which is damaged by careless mechanics when they replace the front crankshaft oil seal or timing belt. Having broken the teeth of the crown, and restoring them by welding, they achieve only a visible absence of damage.

At the same time, the crankshaft position sensor ceases to adequately read information, the ignition timing begins to change chaotically, which leads to a loss of power, unstable engine operation and an increase in fuel consumption

Injectors (nozzles)

Or by installing the injectors on the bench and checking the performance in tests. The nozzles are easy to clean with Laurel, Vince, both in CIP installations and in ultrasound.

Idle valve, IACV

The valve is responsible for the engine speed in all modes (warm-up, idle, load). During operation, the valve petal becomes dirty and the stem wedges. The revolutions freeze on heating or on H.H. (due to a wedge). Tests for changing the speed in scanners during diagnostics for this motor are not provided. You can evaluate the valve's performance by changing the readings of the temperature sensor. Put the engine in "cold" mode. Or, removing the winding from the valve, twist the valve magnet with your hands. Sticking and wedge will be felt immediately. If it is impossible to easily dismantle the valve winding (for example, on the GE series), you can check its operability by connecting to one of the control outputs and measuring the duty cycle of the pulses while simultaneously monitoring the H.X. speed. and changing the load on the engine. On a fully warmed up engine, the duty cycle is approximately 40%, changing the load (including electrical consumers), it is possible to estimate an adequate increase in speed in response to a change in the duty cycle. With mechanical jamming of the valve, there is a smooth increase in the duty cycle, which does not entail a change in the speed of H.H.

You can restore work by cleaning carbon deposits and dirt with a carburetor cleaner with the winding removed.

Further adjustment of the valve is to set the H.H. speed. On a fully warmed up engine, by rotating the winding on the mounting bolts, tabular revolutions are achieved for this type of car (according to the tag on the hood). By pre-installing jumper E1-TE1 in the diagnostic block. On the "younger" motors 4A, 7A, the valve was changed. Instead of the usual two windings, a microcircuit was installed in the body of the valve winding. Changed the valve power and the color of the winding plastic (black). It is already pointless to measure the resistance of the windings at the terminals on it.

The valve is supplied with power and a square-wave variable duty cycle control signal.

For the impossibility of removing the winding, non-standard fasteners were installed. But the wedge problem remained. Now if you clean it with a conventional cleaner, the grease is washed out from the bearings (the further result is predictable, the same wedge, but due to the bearing). It is necessary to completely dismantle the valve from the throttle body and then carefully flush the stem with a petal.

Ignition system. Candles.

Drying of the rubber tips of high-voltage wires, water that got in when washing the motor, which all provoke the formation of a conductive track on the rubber tips.

Because of them, sparking will not be inside the cylinder, but outside it.
With smooth throttling, the engine runs stably, and with sharp throttling, it “crushes”.

In this position, it is necessary to replace both candles and wires at the same time. But sometimes (in the field), if replacement is impossible, you can solve the problem with an ordinary knife and a piece of emery stone (fine fraction). With a knife we cut off the conductive path in the wire, and with a stone we remove the strip from the ceramic of the candle.

It should be noted that it is impossible to remove the rubber band from the wire, this will lead to the complete inoperability of the cylinder.

Another problem is related to the incorrect procedure for replacing the plugs. The wires are forcibly pulled out of the wells, tearing off the metal tip of the rein.

With such a wire, misfiring and floating revolutions are observed. When diagnosing the ignition system, always check the performance of the ignition coil on the high-voltage arrester. The simplest check is to look at the spark on the spark gap while the engine is running.

The resistance of a closed coil can also be checked with a tester. The secondary resistance of the broken coil will be less than 12kΩ.
The next generation coils do not suffer from such ailments (4A.7A), their failure is minimal. Proper cooling and wire thickness eliminated this problem.
Another problem is the leaking oil seal in the distributor. Oil on the sensors corrodes the insulation. And when exposed to high voltage, the slider is oxidized (covered with a green coating). The coal turns sour. All this leads to the disruption of sparking.

In motion, chaotic lumbago is observed (into the intake manifold, into the muffler) and crushing.

" Thin " malfunctions Toyota engine

On modern Toyota 4A, 7A engines, the Japanese changed the firmware of the control unit (apparently for faster engine warm-up). The change lies in the fact that the engine reaches H.H. rpm only at a temperature of 85 degrees. The design of the engine cooling system has also been changed. Now the small cooling circle passes intensively through the block head (not through the branch pipe behind the engine, as it was before). Of course, the cooling of the head has become more efficient, and the engine as a whole has become more efficient. But in winter, with such cooling when driving, the engine temperature reaches a temperature of 75-80 degrees. And as a result, constant warming up revolutions (1100-1300), increased fuel consumption and anxiety of the owners. You can deal with this problem either by insulating the engine more strongly, or by changing the resistance of the temperature sensor (by deceiving the ECU).

Butter

Owners pour oil into the engine indiscriminately, without thinking about the consequences. Few people understand that different types of oils are not compatible and, when mixed, form an insoluble slurry (coke), which leads to the complete destruction of the engine.

All this plasticine cannot be washed off with chemistry, it can only be cleaned mechanically. It should be understood that if you do not know what type of old oil, then you should use flushing before changing. And more advice to the owners. Pay attention to the color of the dipstick handle. It is yellow in color. If the color of the oil in your engine is darker than the color of the handle, then it's time to make a change, and not wait for the virtual mileage recommended by the engine oil manufacturer.

Air filter

When diagnosing, it can be mistakenly assumed that the wear of the valve stem seals is to blame, but the root cause is a clogged air filter, which increases the vacuum in the intake manifold when contaminated. Of course, in this case, the caps will also have to be changed.

Some owners do not even notice about garage rodents living in the air filter housing. Which speaks of their utter disregard for the car.

Fuel filteralso deserves attention. If it is not replaced in time (15-20 thousand mileage), the pump starts to work with overload, the pressure drops, and as a result, it becomes necessary to replace the pump.

The plastic parts of the pump impeller and non-return valve wear out prematurely.

Pressure drops

It should be noted that the operation of the motor is possible at a pressure of up to 1.5 kg (with a standard 2.4-2.7 kg). At reduced pressure, there are constant lumbago in the intake manifold, the start is problematic (after). Draft is noticeably reduced. Check pressure correctly with a pressure gauge. (access to the filter is not difficult). In the field, you can use the "return filling test". If, when the engine is running, less than one liter flows out of the gas return hose in 30 seconds, it is possible to judge the reduced pressure. You can use an ammeter to indirectly determine the pump's performance. If the current consumed by the pump is less than 4 amperes, then the pressure is sagged.

You can measure the current on the diagnostic block.

I had to puzzle for a long time with which gas wrench to hook the rolled nut of the lower union. And sometimes the process of replacing the filter turned into a "movie show" with the removal of the tube leading to the filter.

Today, no one is afraid to make this replacement.

Control block

Before 1998 release, the control units did not have enough serious problems during operation.

The blocks had to be repaired only for a reason" hard polarity reversal" ... It is important to note that all outputs of the control unit are signed. It is easy to find on the board the required sensor lead to check, or wire rings. Parts are reliable and stable at low temperatures.
In conclusion, I would like to dwell a little on gas distribution. Many owners "with hands" perform the belt replacement procedure on their own (although this is not correct, they cannot properly tighten the crankshaft pulley). Mechanics make a quality replacement within two hours (maximum). If the belt breaks, the valves do not meet the piston and the engine does not fatally break down. Everything is calculated to the smallest detail.

We tried to tell you about the most common problems on Toyota A series engines. The engine is very simple and reliable, and subject to very tough operation on "water-iron gasoline" and dusty roads of our great and mighty Motherland and the "awkward" mentality of the owners. Having endured all the bullying, it continues to delight to this day with its reliable and stable work, having won the status of the best Japanese engine.

All the early identification of problems and easy repair of the Toyota 4, 5, 7 A - FE engine!

Vladimir Bekrenev, Khabarovsk
Andrey Fedorov, Novosibirsk
© Legion-Avtodata

UNION OF AUTOMOTIVE DIAGNOSTS

You will find information on car maintenance and repair in the book (s):

The most common and most widely repaired Japanese engine is the (4,5,7) A-FE series. Even a novice mechanic, diagnostician knows about possible problems with engines of this series. I will try to highlight (put together) the problems of these engines. There are not many of them, but they cause a lot of trouble to their owners.

Sensors.

Oxygen sensor - Lambda probe.

"Oxygen sensor" - used to fix oxygen in exhaust gases. Its role is invaluable in the fuel trim process. Read more about sensor problems in article.

The quality of the sensors is not inferior to the original, and the price is significantly lower. The only problem may be the correct connection of the sensor leads. When the sensor sensitivity decreases, the fuel consumption also increases (by 1-3 liters). The performance of the sensor is checked with an oscilloscope on the diagnostic connector block, or directly on the sensor chip (number of switchings). The sensitivity drops when the sensor is poisoned (contaminated) with combustion products.

Engine temperature sensor.

With such a defect in the sensor, a "black acrid exhaust" is possible, unstable operation on the Х.Х. and, as a result, increased consumption, as well as the impossibility of starting a heated engine. It will be possible to start the engine only after 10 minutes of rest. If there is no complete confidence in the correct operation of the sensor, its readings can be substituted by including a variable resistor of 1kΩ, or a constant 300Ω in its circuit, for further verification. By changing the sensor readings, it is easy to control the change in speed at different temperatures.

Throttle position sensor.

The throttle position sensor indicates to the on-board computer what position the throttle is in.

THROTTLE POSITION …… 0%
IDLE SIGNAL ……………… .ON

MAP absolute pressure sensor

The pressure sensor shows the computer the real vacuum in the manifold, according to its readings, the composition of the fuel mixture is formed.

This sensor is the most reliable of all installed on Japanese cars. Its reliability is simply amazing. But it also has a lot of problems, mainly due to improper assembly. It either breaks the receiving "nipple", and then seals any air passage with glue, or breaks the tightness of the supply tube. With such a rupture, the fuel consumption increases, the level of CO in the exhaust increases sharply up to 3%. It is very easy to observe the sensor's operation using the scanner. The line INTAKE MANIFOLD shows the vacuum in the intake manifold, which is measured by the MAP sensor. If the wiring is broken, the ECU registers error 31. At the same time, the opening time of the injectors sharply increases to 3.5-5ms. When gas is re-gassed, a black exhaust appears, the candles are planted, a shaking appears on the X.H. and stopping the engine.

Knock sensor.

The sensor is installed to register detonation knocks (explosions) and indirectly serves as a "corrector" for the ignition timing.

Crankshaft sensor.

The crankshaft sensor generates pulses from which the computer calculates the engine speed. This is the main sensor by which all motor operation is synchronized.

A crankshaft sensor is installed on the 7A series engines. A conventional inductive sensor, similar to the ABC sensor, is practically trouble-free in operation. But embarrassment also happens. With a turn-to-turn closure inside the winding, the generation of pulses is disrupted at certain speeds. This manifests itself as a limitation of engine speed in the range of 3.5-4 t. Revolutions. A kind of cutoff, only at low revs. It is quite difficult to detect an interturn short circuit. The oscilloscope does not show a decrease in the amplitude of pulses or a change in frequency (with acceleration), and it is rather difficult to notice changes in Ohm fractions with a tester. If you experience symptoms of speed limitation at 3-4 thousand, just replace the sensor with a known good one. In addition, a lot of trouble is caused by damage to the driving ring, which is broken by mechanics when they replace the front crankshaft oil seal or timing belt. Having broken the teeth of the crown, and restoring them by welding, they achieve only a visible absence of damage. At the same time, the crankshaft position sensor ceases to adequately read information, the ignition timing begins to change chaotically, which leads to a loss of power, unstable engine operation and an increase in fuel consumption.

Injectors (nozzles).

Injectors are solenoid valves that inject pressurized fuel into the engine's intake manifold. The operation of the injectors is controlled by the engine computer.

Idle valve, IAC

The valve is responsible for the engine speed in all modes (warm-up, idle, load).

During operation, the valve petal becomes dirty and the stem wedges. The revolutions freeze on heating or on H.H. (due to a wedge). Tests for changing the speed in scanners during diagnostics for this motor are not provided. You can evaluate the valve's performance by changing the readings of the temperature sensor. Put the engine in "cold" mode. Or, removing the winding from the valve, twist the valve magnet with your hands. Sticking and wedge will be felt immediately. If it is impossible to easily dismantle the valve winding (for example, on the GE series), you can check its operability by connecting to one of the control outputs and measuring the duty cycle of the pulses, while simultaneously monitoring the speed of H.H. and changing the load on the engine. On a fully warmed up engine, the duty cycle is approximately 40%, changing the load (including electrical consumers), it is possible to estimate an adequate increase in speed in response to a change in the duty cycle. With mechanical jamming of the valve, there is a smooth increase in the duty cycle, which does not entail a change in the speed of H.H. You can restore work by cleaning carbon deposits and dirt with a carburetor cleaner with the winding removed. Further adjustment of the valve is to set the H.H. speed. On a fully warmed up engine, by rotating the winding on the mounting bolts, tabular revolutions are achieved for this type of car (according to the tag on the hood). By pre-installing jumper E1-TE1 in the diagnostic block. On the "younger" motors 4A, 7A, the valve was changed. Instead of the usual two windings, a microcircuit was installed in the body of the valve winding. Changed the valve power and the color of the winding plastic (black). It is already pointless to measure the resistance of the windings at the terminals on it. The valve is supplied with power and a square-wave variable duty cycle control signal. For the impossibility of removing the winding, non-standard fasteners were installed. But the problem of the stock wedge remained. Now if you clean it with a conventional cleaner, the grease is washed out from the bearings (the further result is predictable, the same wedge, but due to the bearing). It is necessary to completely dismantle the valve from the throttle body and then carefully flush the stem with a petal.

Ignition system. Candles.

If the spark disappears or becomes threadlike, this indicates an interturn short circuit in the coil or a problem in the high-voltage wires. Wire breakage is checked with a resistance tester. Small wire 2-3kΩ, further to increase the long 10-12kΩ. The resistance of the closed coil can also be checked with a tester. The secondary resistance of the broken coil will be less than 12kΩ.

The next generation coils (remote) do not suffer from such ailments (4A.7A), their failure is minimal. Proper cooling and wire thickness eliminated this problem.

Subtle faults

On modern engines 4A, 7A, the Japanese changed the firmware of the control unit (apparently for faster engine warm-up). The change lies in the fact that the engine reaches H.H. rpm only at a temperature of 85 degrees. The design of the engine cooling system has also been changed. Now the small cooling circle passes intensively through the block head (not through the branch pipe behind the engine, as it was before). Of course, the cooling of the head has become more efficient, and the engine as a whole has become more efficient. But in winter, with such cooling when driving, the engine temperature reaches a temperature of 75-80 degrees. And as a result, constant warming up revolutions (1100-1300), increased fuel consumption and anxiety of the owners. You can deal with this problem either by insulating the engine more, or by changing the resistance of the temperature sensor (by deceiving the computer), or by replacing the thermostat for the winter with a higher opening temperature.
Butter
Owners pour oil into the engine indiscriminately, without thinking about the consequences. Few people understand that different types of oils are not compatible and, when mixed, form an insoluble slurry (coke), which leads to the complete destruction of the engine.

All this plasticine cannot be washed off with chemistry, it can only be cleaned mechanically. It should be understood that if you do not know what type of old oil, then you should use flushing before changing. And more advice to the owners. Pay attention to the color of the dipstick handle. It is yellow in color. If the color of the oil in your engine is darker than the color of the handle, then it's time to make a change, and not wait for the virtual mileage recommended by the engine oil manufacturer.
Air filter.

The most inexpensive and readily available element is the air filter. Owners very often forget about replacing it, without thinking about the likely increase in fuel consumption. Often, due to a clogged filter, the combustion chamber is very heavily contaminated with burned oil deposits, valves and candles are heavily contaminated. When diagnosing, it can be mistakenly assumed that the wear of the valve stem seals is to blame, but the root cause is a clogged air filter, which increases the vacuum in the intake manifold when contaminated. Of course, in this case, the caps will also have to be changed.
Some owners do not even notice about garage rodents living in the air filter housing. Which speaks of their utter disregard for the car.

The fuel filter is also noteworthy. If it is not replaced in time (15-20 thousand mileage), the pump starts to work with overload, the pressure drops, and as a result, it becomes necessary to replace the pump. The plastic parts of the pump impeller and non-return valve wear out prematurely.

Control block.

Until the 98th year of release, the control units did not have enough serious problems during operation. The blocks had to be repaired only because of the hard polarity reversal. It is important to note that all outputs of the control unit are signed. It is easy to find on the board the required sensor lead to check or wire continuity. Parts are reliable and stable at low temperatures.

In conclusion, I would like to dwell a little on gas distribution. Many owners "with hands" perform the belt replacement procedure on their own (although this is not correct, they cannot properly tighten the crankshaft pulley). Mechanics make a quality replacement within two hours (maximum). If the belt breaks, the valves do not meet the piston and the engine does not fatally break down. Everything is calculated to the smallest detail.
We tried to tell you about the most common problems on engines of this series. The engine is very simple and reliable, and under the condition of very tough operation on "water - iron gasoline" and dusty roads of our great and mighty Motherland and the "auto" mentality of the owners. Having endured all the bullying, it continues to delight to this day with its reliable and stable work, having won the status of the most reliable Japanese engine.
Vladimir Bekrenev, Khabarovsk.
Andrey Fedorov, Novosibirsk.

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In 1987, the Japanese auto giant Toyota began production new series engines for passenger cars, which was named "5A". Production of the series continued until 1999. The Toyota 5A engine was produced in three modifications: 5A-F, 5A-FE, 5A-FHE.

The new 5A-FE engine had a 4-valve DOHC valve per cylinder, that is, an engine fitted with two camshafts in the Double OverHead Camshaft, where each camshaft drives its own row of valves. With such a device, one camshaft moves two intake valves, the other two exhaust valves. The valves are usually driven by pushers. The DOHC scheme in the Toyota 5A series engines has significantly increased their power.

The second generation of Toyota 5A series engines

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline!

An improved version of the 5A-F engine is the second generation 5A-FE engine. Toyota designers have worked hard to improve the fuel injection system, as a result, updated version 5A-FE equipped with electronic injection system injection EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection.

Volume	1.5 l.
Power	100 h.p.
Torque	138 N * m at 4400 rpm
Cylinder diameter	78.7 mm
Piston stroke	77 mm
Cylinder block	cast iron
Cylinder head	aluminum
Gas distribution system	DOHC
Fuel type	petrol
Predecessor	3A
Successor	1NZ

Engines modifications toyota 5A-FE were equipped with cars of classes "C" and "D":

Model	Body	Of the year	Country
Carina	AT170	1990–1992	Japan
Carina	AT192	1992–1996	Japan
Carina	AT212	1996–2001	Japan
Corolla	AE91	1989–1992	Japan
Corolla	AE100	1991–2001	Japan
Corolla	AE110	1995–2000	Japan
Corolla ceres	AE100	1992–1998	Japan
Corona	AT170	1989–1992	Japan
Soluna	AL50	1996–2003	Asia
Sprinter	AE91	1989–1992	Japan
Sprinter	AE100	1991–1995	Japan
Sprinter	AE110	1995–2000	Japan
Sprinter Marino	AE100	1992–1998	Japan
Vios	AXP42	2002–2006	China

If we talk about the quality of the design, then it is difficult to find more good motor... At the same time, the engine is very maintainable and does not give car owners difficulties in purchasing spare parts. The Japanese-Chinese joint venture Toyota and Tianjin FAW Xiali in China are still producing this engine for their small cars Vela and Weizhi.

Japanese motors in Russian conditions

5A-FE under the hood of Toyota Sprinter

In Russia, the owners Toyota cars different models with engines of modification 5A-FE give a generally positive assessment performance characteristics 5A-FE. According to them, the 5A-FE resource is up to 300 thousand km. mileage. With further operation, problems with oil consumption begin. should be replaced with a mileage of 200 thousand km, after which the replacement should be done every 100 thousand km.

Many Toyota owners with 5A-FE engines are faced with a problem that manifests itself in the form of noticeable dips at medium engine speeds. This phenomenon, according to experts, is caused either by low-quality Russian fuel, or problems in the power supply and ignition system.

Subtleties of repair and purchase of a contract motor

Also, during the operation of 5A-FE motors, small disadvantages come to light:

the engine is prone to high wear of the camshaft beds;
fixed piston pins;
difficulties sometimes arise with adjusting the clearances in the intake valves.

But, overhaul 5A-FE is a rare occurrence.

If it is necessary to replace the entire motor, by Russian market today you can easily find contract engine The 5A-FE is in very good condition and at an affordable price. It is worth explaining that it is customary to call engines contract that have not been operated in Russia. Speaking about Japanese contract motors, it should be noted that most of them have low mileage and all manufacturer's requirements are met with respect to Maintenance... Japan has long been considered the world leader in terms of speed of renewal lineup cars. Thus, a lot of cars, engines of which have a fair supply of service life, end up on auto-dismantling there.

Engines 5A, 4A, 7A-FE
The most common and by far the most widely repaired Japanese engine is the (4,5,7) A-FE series. Even a novice mechanic, diagnostician is aware of possible problems with engines of this series. I will try to highlight (put together) the problems of these engines. There are few of them, but they cause a lot of trouble to their owners.

Date from scanner:

On the scanner, you can see a short but capacious date, consisting of 16 parameters, by which you can realistically evaluate the operation of the main engine sensors.

Sensors
Oxygen sensor -

Many owners turn to diagnostics due to increased fuel consumption. One of the reasons is a banal break in the heater in the oxygen sensor. The error is recorded by the control unit code number 21. The heater can be checked with a conventional tester on the sensor contacts (R- 14 Ohm)

Temperature sensor.
If the sensor does not work properly, the owner will face a lot of problems. In the event of a break in the measuring element of the sensor, the control unit replaces the sensor readings and fixes its value at 80 degrees and fixes error 22. The engine, in case of such a malfunction, will operate in normal mode, but only while the engine is warm. Once the engine has cooled down, it will be problematic to start it without doping, due to the short opening time of the injectors. It is not uncommon for the resistance of the sensor to change chaotically when the engine is running on H.H. - the revolutions will float

This defect can be easily fixed on the scanner by observing the temperature reading. On a warm engine, it should be stable and not change randomly from 20 to 100 degrees

Throttle position sensor

MAP absolute pressure sensor

This sensor is the most reliable of all installed on Japanese cars. Its reliability is simply amazing. But it also has a lot of problems, mainly due to improper assembly. Either the receiving "nipple" is broken, and then any passage of air is sealed with glue, or the tightness of the supply tube is violated.

Knock sensor

The sensor is installed to register detonation knocks (explosions) and indirectly serves as a "corrector" for the ignition timing. The recording element of the sensor is a piezoplate. In the event of a sensor malfunction, or a break in the wiring, at overgazings over 3.5-4 tons. The ECU registers an error 52. You can check the performance with an oscilloscope, or by measuring the resistance between the sensor terminal and the case (if there is resistance, the sensor needs to be replaced).

Crankshaft sensor
A crankshaft sensor is installed on the 7A series engines. A conventional inductive sensor, similar to the ABC sensor, is practically trouble-free in operation. But embarrassment also happens. With a turn-to-turn closure inside the winding, the generation of pulses is disrupted at certain speeds. This manifests itself as a limitation of engine speed in the range of 3.5-4 t. Revolutions. A kind of cutoff, only at low revs. It is quite difficult to detect an interturn short circuit. The oscilloscope does not show a decrease in the amplitude of pulses or a change in frequency (with acceleration), and it is rather difficult to notice changes in Ohm fractions with a tester. If you experience symptoms of speed limitation at 3-4 thousand, just replace the sensor with a known good one. In addition, a lot of trouble is caused by damage to the driving ring, which is damaged by careless mechanics when they replace the front crankshaft oil seal or timing belt. Having broken the teeth of the crown, and restoring them by welding, they achieve only a visible absence of damage. At the same time, the crankshaft position sensor ceases to adequately read information, the ignition timing begins to change chaotically, which leads to a loss of power, unstable engine operation and an increase in fuel consumption

Injectors (nozzles)

During many years of operation, the nozzles and needles of the injectors are covered with resins and gasoline dust. All this naturally interferes with the correct spray pattern and reduces the performance of the nozzle. In case of heavy pollution, noticeable shaking of the engine is observed, and fuel consumption increases. It is realistic to determine the clogging by conducting a gas analysis, according to the oxygen readings in the exhaust, it is possible to judge the correctness of the filling. A reading above one percent will indicate the need to flush the injectors (with the correct timing and normal fuel pressure). Or by installing the injectors on the bench and checking the performance in tests. The nozzles are easy to clean with Laurel, Vince, both in CIP installations and in ultrasound.

Idle valve, IACV

Ignition system. Candles.

A very large percentage of cars come to service with problems in the ignition system. When operating on low-quality gasoline, spark plugs are the first to suffer. They are covered with a red coating (ferrosis). There will be no high-quality sparking with such candles. The engine will run intermittently, with gaps, fuel consumption increases, the level of CO in the exhaust rises. Sandblasting cannot clean such candles. Only chemistry (silite for a couple of hours) or replacement will help. Another problem is the increase in clearance (simple wear). Drying of the rubber tips of high-voltage wires, water that got in when washing the motor, which all provoke the formation of a conductive track on the rubber tips.

Because of them, sparking will not be inside the cylinder, but outside it.
With smooth throttling, the engine runs stably, and with sharp throttling, it “crushes”.

Another problem is related to the incorrect procedure for replacing the plugs. The wires are forcibly pulled out of the wells, tearing off the metal tip of the rein.

« Subtle "faults
On modern engines 4A, 7A, the Japanese changed the firmware of the control unit (apparently for faster engine warm-up). The change lies in the fact that the engine reaches H.H. rpm only at a temperature of 85 degrees. The design of the engine cooling system has also been changed. Now the small cooling circle passes intensively through the block head (not through the branch pipe behind the engine, as it was before). Of course, the cooling of the head has become more efficient, and the engine as a whole has become more efficient. But in winter, with such cooling when driving, the engine temperature reaches a temperature of 75-80 degrees. And as a result, constant warming up revolutions (1100-1300), increased fuel consumption and anxiety of the owners. You can deal with this problem either by insulating the engine more strongly, or by changing the resistance of the temperature sensor (by deceiving the ECU).
Butter
Owners pour oil into the engine indiscriminately, without thinking about the consequences. Few people understand that different types of oils are not compatible and, when mixed, form an insoluble slurry (coke), which leads to the complete destruction of the engine.

All this plasticine cannot be washed off with chemistry, it can only be cleaned mechanically. It should be understood that if you do not know what type of old oil, then you should use flushing before changing. And more advice to the owners. Pay attention to the color of the dipstick handle. It is yellow in color. If the color of the oil in your engine is darker than the color of the handle, then it's time to make a change, and not wait for the virtual mileage recommended by the engine oil manufacturer.

Air filter
The most inexpensive and readily available element is the air filter. Owners very often forget about replacing it, without thinking about the likely increase in fuel consumption. Often, due to a clogged filter, the combustion chamber is very heavily contaminated with burned oil deposits, valves and candles are heavily contaminated. When diagnosing, it can be mistakenly assumed that the wear of the valve stem seals is to blame, but the root cause is a clogged air filter, which increases the vacuum in the intake manifold when contaminated. Of course, in this case, the caps will also have to be changed.

Fuel filter also deserves attention. If it is not replaced in time (15-20 thousand mileage), the pump starts to work with overload, the pressure drops, and as a result, it becomes necessary to replace the pump. The plastic parts of the pump impeller and non-return valve wear out prematurely.

Pressure drops. It should be noted that the operation of the motor is possible at a pressure of up to 1.5 kg (with a standard 2.4-2.7 kg). At reduced pressure, there are constant lumbago in the intake manifold, the start is problematic (after). Draft is noticeably reduced. Check pressure correctly with a pressure gauge. (access to the filter is not difficult). In the field, you can use the "return filling test". If, when the engine is running, less than one liter flows out of the gas return hose in 30 seconds, it is possible to judge the reduced pressure. You can use an ammeter to indirectly determine the pump's performance. If the current consumed by the pump is less than 4 amperes, then the pressure is sagged. You can measure the current on the diagnostic block

When using a modern tool, the process of replacing the filter takes no more than half an hour. Previously, it took a lot of time. Mechanics always hoped in case that they were lucky and the lower fitting did not rust. But it often did. I had to puzzle for a long time with which gas wrench to hook the rolled nut of the lower union. And sometimes the process of replacing the filter turned into a "movie show" with the removal of the tube leading to the filter.

Today, no one is afraid to make this replacement.

Control block
Until 1998 release, control units did not have serious enough problems during operation.

The blocks had to be repaired only because of the "hard polarity reversal". It is important to note that all outputs of the control unit are signed. It is easy to find on the board the required sensor terminal for checking, or for wire continuity. Parts are reliable and stable at low temperatures.
In conclusion, I would like to dwell a little on gas distribution. Many owners "with hands" perform the belt replacement procedure on their own (although this is not correct, they cannot properly tighten the crankshaft pulley). Mechanics make a quality replacement within two hours (maximum). If the belt breaks, the valves do not meet the piston and the engine does not fatally break down. Everything is calculated to the smallest detail.

We tried to tell you about the most common problems on engines of this series. The engine is very simple and reliable, and subject to very tough operation on "water-iron gasoline" and dusty roads of our great and mighty Motherland and "avos" mentality of the owners. Having endured all the bullying, it continues to delight to this day with its reliable and stable work, having won the status of the best Japanese engine.

Successful repairs to all.

"Reliable Japanese Engines". Notes Automotive Diagnostic

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