How to choose a used VAZ car. How to choose a used VAZ car? Track new offers

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The brainchildren of the Togliatti Automobile Plant are still the most popular vehicles on secondary market Russia. They are chosen for a number of reasons, including: affordable cost, inexpensive repairs, good adaptability to domestic off-road conditions and unpretentious operation. Nevertheless, the choice of a used car is always associated with a certain risk of purchasing problem car both legally and technically. Autocode tells how to choose a VAZ car, and what to look for when buying.

How to choose a used VAZ car

First, let's talk about what you should pay attention to first.

Iron

It is no secret that the most expensive repair is required for the car body. Therefore, first of all, we look at the state of iron. Read more on how to check the paintwork and body geometry of a used car. If you find signs that the car was repainted, or it has a broken body geometry, most likely the vehicle has been in a serious accident. It is better to refuse to choose such a car. Also, do not buy a vehicle with traces of corrosion. Cars of the VAZ family rust quickly enough. And it may take a lot of effort and money to slow down the "blooming" of body elements.

Internal filling

• transmissions (extraneous noise when shifting gears, as well as difficulties with shifting them indicate problems with the gearbox, the replacement of which (especially if it is an automatic) will cost several tens of thousands of rubles);
• suspension elements (rocking a car while driving is the first sign of problems);
• engine (dark or bluish exhaust when running power unit indicates that the latter needs a major overhaul, which will also cost a pretty penny);
• electrical equipment (problems with electrics are quite common in used VAZs, so if, when inspecting the car, you find an involuntary operation of the wipers or a sound signal, be prepared to replace the mounting block).

As they say, there are always two "fools" on the market - one sells, the other buys. In 99 cases out of 100, the owner is not going to tell you about all the faults in his used car. If you are not sure that you can independently identify the defects in the technical condition of the vehicle, it is reasonable to take a knowledgeable person with you. He will help make right choice and, if necessary, will report on those faults that you simply will not notice. If finances allow, one of the most rational options is to check a used car in a specialized service center... True, you will have to pay several thousand rubles for high-quality diagnostics.

You can order a field check on the Autocode website.

Which VAZ models are preferable

When choosing a used car, one of the main parameters is its cost. For used VAZ cars with a price tag of 40-50 thousand rubles. it's better not to pay attention at all. For that kind of money, in most cases, sellers offer a pile of scrap metal, which will require considerable financial investments and frequent repairs. Next, consider the more expensive options.

The budget is 60-70 thousand rubles.

In this price category it is optimal to choose representatives of the classics - VAZ 2105, VAZ 2106 or VAZ 2107. It is advisable to buy a car no older than 2003-2004. These are reliable and time-tested cars that, with proper care and adherence to operating rules, will last for more than one year.

The budget is 80-90 thousand rubles.

Here, the undoubted leader is the VAZ 21099, released 10-12 years ago. It is better to choose a vehicle with an injector. Specialists do not recommend buying cars with a carburetor. If you decide to opt for this model, pay special attention to checking brake system... Make sure no oil or other fluids leak, and no rust on arches and sills. In addition, the interior heater is considered to be the weak point of the VAZ 21099, so make sure it works. Another problem inherent in these models is the strong rattling of interior trim parts, which, however, is observed in almost all old Zhiguli models.

The budget is 120-160 thousand rubles.

• good value for money;
• the level of technological equipment that is not inferior to many manufacturers;
• high ground clearance, which provides high cross-country ability;
• roomy salon;
• decent anti-corrosion properties of the body.

If you decide to choose a used VAZ 2112, first of all, check the engine. Extraneous noise from under the hood will indicate problems with the hydraulic lifters. Also, ask your dealer what type of fuel was used for refueling. vehicle: gasoline of the 92nd mark does not in the best way affect the stability of the 16-valve power unit.

The VAZ 2114 does not differ much in design from the 9 series models, therefore it has the same problems as the VAZ 21099 (they were mentioned above).

Budget from 200 thousand rubles.

If you decide to choose a more expensive used car - pay attention to Priora or Granta. These models are distinguished by high safety indicators, increased cabin comfort, good noise insulation properties. Among the shortcomings, experts note the whimsicality to the quality of fuel (it is advisable to fill a car with a 95th grade of gasoline), oil and other consumables.

Residents of rural areas, as well as townspeople who are fond of outdoor activities, travel, hunting or fishing, experts recommend choosing Lada Largus or Niva. Models differ high traffic, roomy interior and ease of use.

Whichever VAZ model you choose, before making a purchase, check a used car using the all-Russian Internet service "Autocode". Enter in the search box on our website the state. number or VIN-code of the car. In a few minutes you will be able to familiarize yourself with the detailed history of the vehicle. The report will contain information on the number of owners of a used car, the presence of encumbrances and restrictions on registration actions in the traffic police, information about fines, accidents and other useful data, on the basis of which you will draw conclusions about the rationality of purchasing a car.

If you are going to buy a used car, VAZ is suitable option... Why? Most people agree with the opinion that the WHA is a bucket of bolts. No-well-groomed car will carry you with comfort, and will not cause problems, there are enough foreign cars on city streets that openly ask for repair.

Of course, we will become the main criterion for your choice - the amount that you have to purchase your car. The state and model of the future acquisition will depend on it. Earlier models, such as the VAZ 2101, are slower than, for example, the VAZ 2108. But this is true for a factory car.

In the case of VAZ, many cars have been modified by their owner. Sometimes it is a complete collective farm and a "Gypsy - package". But there are also very well-groomed pennies, with modernized engines that can easily bypass the same eight. How to choose a used VAZ car so that it does not become a flour and an endless object of investment?

Pay attention to the car body. Externally, the car can be without dents and well painted. In order to make sure that the body is not broken, you need a magnet, it should not be too powerful - an ordinary magnet that you can hang on the refrigerator.

You should walk over the body with a magnet - if the car has a very thick layer of putty on it - the magnet will not stick to the body and will fall off - this will tell you about the painful place of the inspected car. As you know, the second most important element of a car is its engine. In order to find out whether the engine is working properly or not, you should start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature.

When the machine will run on Idling, pay attention to the oil pressure lamp, if it is on, there is reason to doubt the serviceability of the motor. Even if it does not burn (it may simply not work), it is better to unscrew the oil pressure sensor from the engine block and screw in the pressure gauge, then push the gas pedal. The device will show the pressure - 4e units of normal pressure. This means that the oil washes and lubricates the engine well.

Now you should unscrew the candles and see if there is oil on them. Sometimes the oil sludge is so strong that the candle, and therefore the cylinder, does not work! A working motor will not throw oil on the candles. Just while the candles are unscrewed, a compressor should be screwed into each cylinder and the pressure in the cylinders should be measured.

A serviceable engine will show 11-13 atmospheres. 8-9 atmospheres, the motor is alive, but this is no longer ideal. How to choose a used car in terms of model? The choice between the classics and the first Samaras for someone is fundamental. Someone likes the classics, and someone else the first front-wheel drive. By and large, without taking into account the type of body.

Samara differs from the classics in the type of drive and rack and pinion steering. The location of the engine, in terms of accessibility, is more convenient in the classic - the engine is located longitudinally Engine compartment any classic model has a large supply of free space, which is very good when self-repair, and at the service station, this is also good, the cost of repairs will be lower.

If you recently got your license, then it is best to gain experience in a car that will not be a pity, even if it crashes. Very often novice drivers buy used domestic cars, some then do not even want to change them - they get used to it, make tuning, that is, they improve their "iron horses". However, even a supported car must be chosen correctly, otherwise it will not serve you for a year.

VAZ 2110 device

The VAZ 2110 model first appeared on sale in 1995, and among the people it received a variety of nicknames. So, she was called "pregnant antelope" and simply "bast shoes". Nevertheless, this car is still successfully sold in the secondary car market.

The VAZ 2110 device, in general, is practically no different from the design of other VAZ models, in addition, more than one book was written about this model at one time. Thanks to this, almost any car enthusiast is able to make some changes to his " iron horse" on one's own. It is also worth noting that in all cities it is quite easy to find the necessary spare parts for this model, which adds another plus to it.

Having decided to purchase this particular model, it is important to remember that the VAZ 2110 device is such that there is not enough view from the passenger compartment when moving back. Actually, most cars of this model have any scratches, and, as a rule, poor visibility is the reason for getting scratches. You will have to get used to and adapt to this.

It is also important to keep in mind that the car requires firm and clear orders on the pedals, but at first the legs usually do not get tired of such loads. One more weakness in the VAZ 2110 device - the clutch pedal travel.

Of course, when compared with foreign cars, the VAZ 2110 loses a lot, however, in general, for the first car this model suitable very well, especially since you can not regret it and use it, including as a means of transporting heavy loads, for example, furniture or building materials.

How to choose a VAZ 2110 car

So, you found an advertisement for the sale of a VAZ 2110 that interested you and went to a meeting with the seller, or just went to car market... How exactly to choose a VAZ 2101 car? What should you pay attention to? If you are well versed in the VAZ 2110 device, then most likely there will be no problems, however, very few novice motorists are able to boast of such knowledge. Of course, you can take a friend with you who is much better versed in cars, but there may not be such friends, or they simply will not have free time. We have compiled a small list of recommendations on what to look for when buying a used VAZ 2110.

First, you must decide on the exact amount that you are willing to spend on a car. Try to choose a car, the cost of which is about 20 percent lower of the amount allocated for the purchase - you will need the remaining money after buying a VAZ 2110. So, you will need to take out insurance and the purchase and sale itself, put the car on record, you may have to do some minor repairs ...

Secondly, do not take the first car you come across, even if you need a car urgently! The more time you spend looking for the car that best suits your needs, the more best car get it. Therefore, do not hesitate to search, ask the details you are interested in and, of course, compare the inspected cars!

how to choose the right vaz 2106
A classic that has conquered thousands of people. The legendary "six", which still flickers on the roads of the former Soviet Union and not only. Over the thirty-year history of this car, more than four million copies have been produced. This is the most massive production of Avtovaz. Nowadays, this car is in demand.
How to choose the right VAZ 2106? Each car has its own pros and cons, as well as nuances that you should pay attention to.

First go around the car and carefully assess its surfaces. First of all, we pay attention to the condition of the body, both outside and inside, for iron corrosion. Especially if the car is more than 10 years old. Check the underbody and trunk well. You can even knock on it with some kind of screwdriver or hammer. Inspect thresholds and jacking locations. The classics as such are not framed. The role of the frame is performed by "spars". They also need to be carefully inspected for deformation and welding. Be sure to check the underbody and trunk. Determine the presence of "wheel arch liners".

The next step when choosing a car is to inspect the engine. The heart of the car should be in perfect condition and not have traces of running oil. Check the oil. Open the oil filler cap. If, when the engine is running, exhaust pipe or thick or bluish smoke comes from the oil filling neck, he will soon need overhaul... Also pay attention to the sound of the engine running. There should be no extraneous noise. The engine should run smoothly, without jerking. You can also unscrew the candles. They should be sandy in color, without carbon deposits and deposits. At the same time, if desired, you can check the compression.
"Six" in its way is very universal machine... It fits perfectly both on the tracks and on the city streets, because it is a fairly maneuverable car and has a good speed. Very soft suspension absorbs all the bumps and bumps of our roads. Therefore, when buying a VAZ 2106, you need to pay attention to the suspension and transmission. Because repairing these units can cost a pretty penny. It is necessary to visually inspect the condition of the levers and rods. There should be no cracks on them. After shaking the car, we determine the condition of the shock absorbers and ball joints. Next, we start the car and drive out onto the road. We check the switching of all speeds. Switching should be soft and quiet. Having dispersed the "six" to 90-100 km / h, we listen to the noise rear axle... If there is noise, then this is definitely an expensive repair.

We look into the interior of the car. Opening and closing doors should be soft. The most painful places are the seats and the dashboard. The seats are very often broken and repaired by welding. Therefore, we check the ability of the seats to "ride" on a sled and recline back. The dashboard tends to burst from direct sunlight. We check the performance of all lighting devices, signals, wipers, power windows and especially the stove. VAZ 2106 is very warm car and the stove has no complaints. But still, you need to turn it on and check for extraneous noise, which should not be. The upholstery must be tightly fastened.
And finally, you need to check the condition of the wiring. The wires must be neatly assembled and not have unnecessary self-made twists. The wiring must be clean and not stick out like a broom from all the cracks. Examine the fuse box.
In principle, these are basic tips to know how to choose the right VAZ 2106. Good luck on the road!

HOW TO CLEAN THE CAR ENGINE?

It is necessary to wash the engine in order to avoid the engine fire, as the remaining engine oil on the engine, when evaporated, turns into a combustible vapor that causes a fire.

A small pressure of water together with automotive chemicals will give the desired result. As automotive chemistry for the engine it is better to use a foam engine cleaner.

Foam engine cleaner quickly removes dirt and does not harm plastic and rubber. Common household chemicals are useless and unable to remove engine oil from the engine. The engine can be washed as follows:

• All places where water should not get is covered with polyethylene;
• It is necessary to wait until the engine heats up, becomes warm and turn it off;
• The battery is removed or the terminal can be removed from the minus;
• Apply foam engine cleaner to the engine and wait a couple of minutes for the dirt to dissolve;
• It is necessary to rinse the foam engine cleaner from the engine and dry the engine.

You can use a mixture of baking soda and water to treat the battery.

After washing the engine, it is better to dry it with a compressor, but if it is not there, you can use a vacuum cleaner. It is better to wash the engine twice a year, but you can also wash it once a year.

WHEN REPLACING SHOCK ABSORBERS DO YOU NEED TO CHANGE SPRINGS OR NOT?

Due to the poor quality of the roads, the suspension suffers greatly. The most common suspension breakdowns are springs and shock absorbers.

Springs are an integral part of the suspension, as are the shock absorbers. Shock absorbers and springs ensure smooth ride and handling on the road. Springs are used to cushion shock when driving on rough roads. If the wheels of the car run over an obstacle, they are thrown up, and they become uncontrollable.

The dampers help the springs to quickly absorb the vibration of the wheels. Since shock absorbers are complex, they have to be changed frequently.

For the suspension to function properly, the shock absorbers and springs need to function well. The springs support the weight of the vehicle, while the movement of the springs controls the shock absorbers. It follows from this that shock absorbers depend on springs, just like springs depend on shock absorbers. If the spring fails, the work of the spring is shifted to the shock absorber, which leads to a quick failure of the shock absorber.

The spring fails for a number of reasons:

• Large metal wear;
• The surface of the spring is damaged;
• The impact of an aggressive environment on the spring.

WHAT IS BETTER TO CHOOSE A NEW OR USED ENGINE?

When overhauling an engine, everything comes down to money. The price for a major overhaul of a multi-cylinder motor can start from 90,000 rubles. Many owners of such motors are beginning to ponder whether it is better to buy for that kind of money. new engine or at least used.

A new engine for foreign cars costs almost as much as an overhaul of the engine. Used engines include those supplied from abroad. Abroad, a wrecked car is dismantled for parts, and the engines of such cars are usually not damaged. Such engines are in good condition and their mileage is not great.

There is almost no guarantee for such an engine, but such engines are inexpensive.

Most of the used engines come from abroad. Engines from abroad were operating in favorable conditions.

If the engine managed to run 200 thousand kilometers, then such an engine is not worth buying due to the fact that it has used up most of its resource. It is better to buy a used engine with a mileage of 70 thousand kilometers, or buy an engine with a mileage of 100 thousand kilometers from Europe. Engines from Europe with this mileage can run another 500 thousand kilometers.

Performer Prizhennikov Dmitry Alexandrovich (diiimonpr)

Performer Shumakov Andrey Andreevich (sumakov)

Every future car owner is faced with the problem of buying a car. Of course, if financial possibilities allow, it is better to purchase a car from the salon, which minimizes all possible unpleasant consequences of the purchase, since the car is new and a guarantee is given for it. But buy new car not everyone can, and here the secondary market comes to the rescue of motorists.

The used car market is very extensive and allows almost anyone to find a car for their budget. But the purchase of such a car is associated with many risks, and first of all it concerns the cars themselves. Vehicle condition depends on operating conditions and compliance Maintenance... But not all car owners normally relate to their "steel horse", some generally act exactly the opposite - squeeze "all the juices" out of the car, and very quickly, and then simply "push" it away. And here the problem is not even that the car has any technical problems, and all attempts by the seller to hide them in order to sell the car at a higher price. And for this they go to all sorts of tricks. Therefore, the purchase of a used car is a rather risky business and it is not always possible to predict what kind of car "fell into the hands". But you can try to minimize these risks, which will also allow you to save on the purchase, but for this you need to know what you should ask the seller about, where to look, and what points may cause suspicion.

Let's consider how to prepare before and during the purchase of a car using the example of VAZ models - one of the best-selling cars on the secondary market.

Determining a potential purchase

The first step before purchasing is to search for offers to sell cars. There are enough options here, so first you should narrow your search as much as possible and for this you need to decide on a number of criteria:

• Available budget;
• Preferred option (sedan or station wagon, front or rear wheel drive, 3 or 5 door, etc.);
• Experience in car repair and the ability to carry out maintenance after purchase (for some buyers, the purchase of a faulty car and its restoration may be a more profitable option)

These criteria will significantly reduce the time spent looking for the required vehicle.

Further, it is already possible to consider the existing proposals. One of the best options for purchasing is buying a VAZ from acquaintances, friends, relatives, in general, a car that is well known to the buyer. Knowing the features of the car, and the attitude of the owner to the car, you can already roughly establish the state of the car in advance and proceed from this to bargain. In addition, in this case, an option of payment by installments is available (if there is a trusting relationship between the buyer and the seller), which will allow you to purchase a car, the cost of which is higher than the available budget.

If there are no such acquaintances, then here you will have to look for options on trading floors:

• Internet resources;
• Newspaper advertisements;
• Car markets;

When choosing a car on such sites, you should not stop at any one option, you should choose 3-5 cars that best meet the selection criteria and select the best offer from them.

We get primary information

Having settled on several options, we carefully study the information provided on the car. In this case, the description of the car should not be especially taken into account, since the indicated data are far from always true, here it is more worth considering the attached photos (the more, the better).

You should also compare the indicated prices for the cars. You should not be "led" to a value that is much lower than the market value, since almost always in such proposals the machine is problematic (it "hangs" fines or it is laid in the bank, technically "killed", something is wrong with the documents, etc.). etc.). As a result, such a purchase will result in very serious and unpleasant consequences. Therefore, in terms of prices, you should dwell on options with an average market value (with a slight deviation in the positive or negative direction).

After identifying with cars, you can call the sellers. At this stage, you should ask:

• The technical condition of the car (but you shouldn't trust the description too much, although if the seller is honest and just decided, he can already talk about the problems and nuances of the car by phone);
• Operating conditions;
• To whom the car is "registered" (the best option is if the seller or his close relatives are the owner according to the technical passport, and he agrees to deregister the car. problems may appear);
• How many owners did the car have (1-2 owners are the most the best option, 3 - allowed, more - you can end the conversation and look for a car to purchase further);
• The period of ownership of the car by the owner (the more - the better. If he owns a car for only a couple of months, it is better to refuse to purchase such a car and believe the stories that "did not fit" or "money is urgently needed" is not worth it);
• The relevance of bargaining (ordinary sellers often agree to bargaining within "reasonable limits");
• The ability to check a car at a service station (check at a service station - one best options to determine the technical condition of the car, especially for those who have a car on "you", and if the seller refuses such a check, then something is "unclean" with the car. But in this case, you will have to agree on the issue of payment for service station services);

Having specified all the details, you can arrange a meeting to inspect the car "live". At the same time, going to the "bride" will not be superfluous the presence of a friend who is well versed in cars. Since if you are going to insure the car, it is better to know in advance all the "pitfalls"

Vehicle inspection

Inspection of the car is perhaps the most important part when choosing, since it makes it possible to assess the condition of the car, identify defects and problems, which will further reduce the price or lead to the conclusion that the purchase should be abandoned.

Documentation, mileage

When we meet, first of all, we consider PTS cars and other tech. documentation (the more the seller provides, the better). We also immediately check those. passport body number.

The next criterion is mileage, but there are a lot of nuances here, so for the most part you will have to be content with the odometer readings. But here you can also make some calculations based on the information provided by the owner. For example, a car is 10 years old, and the owner indicates that he used the car for personal purposes only. With this operation, the average annual mileage varies in the range of 10-20 thousand km, and as a result we get that the odometer should be about 100-200 thousand km. If it is lower, the mileage is most likely twisted (we do not pay attention to the stories that “only grandfather drove the car for bread”), and more mileage will indicate that the car was used very actively (for example, as a taxi or work car). But such calculations give only an approximate result and it is impossible to take into account all the nuances, so you have to rely on the honesty of the seller, as well as on what he will "tell" technical condition car.

After checking the documents, general inspection of the car and comparing its condition with the odometer readings, we proceed to a more detailed diagnosis of the condition.

Power unit

The engine should be inspected first, it attachments and aggregates. Clean motor with no traces of smudges, but not badly powdered with dust - best indicator what power point in fully working order and nothing was done in it before the sale. Even if a small smudge is seen somewhere technical fluid- is not yet a reason to refuse a purchase, but at the same time it will help to "drop" the price a little.

But a thoroughly washed engine is a reason to be wary, since the sink usually tries to hide traces of malfunctions or recent repairs (which is not known how it was done). New attachments and wiring may indicate that the vehicle has recently undergone major repairs (the reason for which is also hidden by the owner or provided inaccurate information).

In addition to the engine, we also inspect all surfaces engine compartment(hood, engine shield, arches). Often there are traces of strong smudges on them. liquids (if any).

Body and suspension

Then we inspect the body. In order not to miss the nuances, it is better if the inspection is carried out in bright sunlight. With this kind of lighting, even minor paint color mismatches will be noticeable, indicating a touch-up or body repair.

You shouldn't pay attention to statements that the car is "not a bit, not painted", because according to statistics, about 90% of all cars received body damage during operation, but only the owner knows how serious they were (but whether he will tell the truth is unknown ).

Be sure to check the markings on the glasses (it should be the same everywhere), any discrepancies will indicate that some glass has been replaced.

Same inspect all body clearances(on doors, hood, trunk). Strong discrepancies in the dimensions of the gaps are one of the signs that the body is "behaved", and this is fraught with many problems in the future.

Again, dust is a good assistant in determining the condition of a car - a thin layer of it on all surfaces will indicate that the seller of the car did not specially prepare the car for sale and provided it for inspection as it is. Naturally, he can wash the car to make it look better, but bumpers, nameplates, labels and other body attachments, as well as stickers, rubbed to a shine will indicate that it is beautiful appearance the owner is trying to “blur” his eyes (popularly, this technique of dealers is called “smearing lips” on a car).

It will not hurt to inspect the bottom either, but this will already require observation pit... A fresh layer of anti-corrosion treatment on the underbody is a sign that the seller with mastic is trying to hide obvious defects (in the case of the body, these are foci of rust).

Being under the car, we immediately assess the condition of the suspension elements. There should be no smudges on the shock absorbers, silent blocks, bushings and anthers - intact and not delaminated, etc.

We also inspect the condition of the tires. Their uneven wear will indicate at least unsettled camber / toe angles, and the maximum - on the "behaved" body.

Salon

We pass to the salon. In it, we determine the degree of "wear" of surfaces, especially those elements that are covered with covers (steering wheel, seats), as well as door handles, rugs. If everything in the cabin is new (the same covers), it is possible that the seller is trying to hide the traces of intensive use of the car.

We also check the performance of all equipment, both internal and external - signal lamps dashboard, heater, air conditioner (if any), wipers and washer, turn signals, head light, rear headlights, etc.

Checking "on the go"

The final stage of the self-inspection is a short car ride. In this case, you should not turn on music, ask not to interfere with "listening" to the car, and choose such a road for traffic, where there are a variety of road conditions- a straight and level section (evaluate the operation of the engine - its throttle response, dynamics), with irregularities and bumps ("show" the operation of the suspension and show body creaks), with turns (to assess the braking system and steering).

After all this, either we start bargaining, or we additionally check the car at the service station. In the second case, you should offer to check the car at any first service station, but the buyer should choose the station, and not go to the one that the seller recommends (eliminates the likelihood that the seller will have “his own people” at the station).

Bargain

After all the checks - bargaining. Here you should indicate all the identified defects and breakdowns, and based on them, agree on the issue of a discount. But here it is better to operate with specific numbers in order to constructively prove the need to reduce the price. And for this, you should ask before the inspection the cost of spare parts and repair of the most common faults and defects. Below is a list of those components that most often require restoration, as well as an approximate one for work:

• Bodywork (repair of the bottom will cost $ 200-300, repainting - from $ 1000, removal of rust centers - $ 100-300);
• Power unit (replacement of consumables - $ 50-150, overhaul - up to $ 1000);
• Braking system or steering (200-400$);
• Suspension ($ 50 to $ 400);
• Optics (headlights - $ 50-100, windshield – 100-250$);
• Exhaust gas system (boil - $ 30-40, replace - $ 100-150);

The indicated amounts are very approximate and a lot depends on the car itself, the complexity of the damage and defects, as well as on who will carry out the repair (with self-repair, you can save a lot, but it is better to keep silent about this, telling the buyer that you will have to spend on service station services) ...

After agreeing on the price issue, we directly purchase and reissue documents. But the process of purchasing a car is not over yet.

Primary maintenance

Having become the owner of a VAZ, it will not be superfluous to perform MOT in order to be completely confident in the car (this operation is necessary even for those cars whose condition is "sat down and went").

When you first MOT your car, you should:

• • Replace all those. liquids (it is not known when and what the previous owner filled in);
  • Change engine consumables (drive belts);
  • Assess the condition of the brake pads;
  • Replace suspension consumables;
  • Check and adjust the camber / toe angles;

This is a necessary minimum before starting the normal operation of the car. And already in the process of use, gradually eliminate the remaining defects and breakdowns.

Signs of attempted deception

The main signs that the buyer is trying to "snatch firewood" are:

• Reduced price;
• Abundant "lip painting" for the car;
• Obstruction by any means of normal and comprehensive inspection of the vehicle;
• Refusal of diagnostics at service station;
• Attempts to reduce the scale of the problem (something like "yes, I turned it off for such and such a reason, but if you plug it back in, it will work");
• Easy compliance in price;

If all this is noticed during inspection, then it is better to look for a car to purchase from other sellers.

As a result, we note that all these measures do not guarantee a successful purchase, since in this matter a lot depends on which seller comes across, but although they reduce the likelihood of acquiring a problem car.