How to properly flush a car's cooling system. Car oils and everything you need to know about motor oils

Good afternoon. Today we will talk about how to flush the engine cooling system from oil? This is especially true for vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions and oil-to-salt heat exchangers, since the risk of oil getting into them is much higher. The article discusses working flushing methods, and popular misconceptions.

This article is based on my own experience! All tips in the article are tested in practice!

The main problem when oil enters the coolant is the formation of an emulsion.

It looks like this:

The main difficulty with the emulsion is that it clogs all the hoses, pipes, and the engine starts to overheat. Those. it flows very slowly and does not remove heat, and it is quite difficult to wash it.

Non-working ways to flush the cooling system from oil (popular misconceptions).

Flushing the cooling system with plenty of running water.

We brought the radiator to the garden and flushed it with reverse flow, water from the well. It did nothing, it drives out large drops of oil with water, but the emulsion on the walls is not washed off (cold water cannot soften it). It takes more than one ton of very hot water to completely flush the cooling system from the emulsion.

Hot water is EXPENSIVE, not everyone has access to unlimited free hot water, so we write to non-working methods.

Flushing the cooling system with whey.

I read this method on the Internet and decided to check it out.

The washing procedure is as follows - we drain all the liquid from the cooling system and replace it with whey, in the warm season we ride for 2-3 days, drain the whey, rinse 2-3 times with cold water and fill in antifreeze.

Whey is freely sold in dairy departments.

We tested this method after flushing the cooling system with water more than 10 times, and flushing the radiator with reverse flow.

We also write the method as non-working! No, the serum merged black and it washed out some dirt, but it washes the emulsion no better than water!

Partially working methods for flushing the cooling system.

Flushing the cooling system with FAIRY dishwasher.

The washing procedure is as follows - fill in the detergent (about a glass of 10 liters), warm up the engine to operating temperature and drain all fluid from the system.

Repeat if necessary.

At the end of flushing, we flush the cooling system 2-3 times with water, drain everything and fill in antifreeze.

Partially working method The detergent does partially remove the oil emulsion, but it falls off in rather large pieces that do not pass through the radiator cells, thermostat and thin hoses of the cooling system.

I summarize - you can rinse, but the product is not effective enough, it breaks down the emulsion, but it does it in large pieces that do not pass through the radiators.

Flushing the cooling system with automatic powder.

The method is somewhat better than rinsing with a dishwasher (less foam), but fundamentally no different.

The only method of flushing the cooling system that worked was flushing the cooling system with SOIL FUEL (DT).

Desperate to wash the engine of the emulsion, I ventured to flush the cooling system diesel fuel.

The methodology is as follows:

• Drain all fluid from the bleed system
• Remove the thermostat (otherwise there is a possibility that big circle will not open and the radiator will remain clogged)
• Fill the entire cooling system with diesel fuel (at a minimum).
• We warm up the car to operating temperature (we stand still, do not drive, warming up without a thermostat will take about 20 minutes)
• We merge everything from the cooling system (I merged black diesel fuel)
• Flush the system with water 2 times
• Pour antifreeze

Many are afraid to do this, fearing the ignition of diesel fuel - nothing will happen to it, do not forget to remove the thermostat, otherwise it will not work to flush the radiator.

Some are afraid for the safety of the nozzles, the nozzles can swell and deteriorate from fatty diesel fuel - this is also nonsense! From an oil emulsion, they will swell much faster.

Methods that have not been tested.

Acid wash.

Here I include washing with carbonic acid (carbonated water), acetic acid, citric acid, it is obvious that these acids will not take an oil emulsion. But it is quite possible to flush the cooling system from scale and dirt.

Washing with soda.

Soda will also not remove the oil emulsion, but aluminum will thank you for it! When flushing the cooling system with soda, it is diluted in a proportion of 100 g / liter.

According to popular beliefs, Epiphany water retains its properties for a long time and does not deteriorate, while ordinary water releases a white precipitate after a few days. Unfortunately, automotive antifreeze does not differ in durability, because Environment for him is quite aggressive.

Therefore, sooner or later the time comes to completely replace the coolant (coolant). Before doing this, it is better to flush the entire cooling volume. What cleaning agents ("cleaners") are most suitable for flushing the engine cooling system - you will learn from the proposed article.

"Normal heroes always go around"

It is enough to go to any car shop or kiosk of related products at service stations to make sure that there are all kinds of preparations intended for decomposition, splitting, dispersion of solid and jelly-like deposits formed inside the engine cooling system (SOD), with their subsequent removal. You can entrust this simple, but rather dirty procedure, to car service workers.

However, the domestic motorist is used to going his own way. Rightly believing that the basis of all internal layers are mineral (scale, rust) and organic substances (fats, oils, dirt), he uses various household and folk remedies. Here are some of them:

• acetic acid or essence;
• diluted citric, lactic or hydrochloric acids;
• milk serum;
• solutions of caustic or drinking soda;
• means for cleaning toilet bowls "Duck";
• Youth drink "Coca-Cola".

The last two names are the pinnacle of flushing "lifehacking". In order not to provoke the reader to use the "cleaners" listed above, those who are interested can find their recipe in other sources.

The use of funds not intended for car maintenance should be considered as a necessary measure. No one guarantees you the result of their use.

The composition of auto chemical products

The most effective method for cleaning SOD is the use of special acid- or alkali-based chemical fluids. Acids dissolve solid mechanical components (lime deposits and corrosion products), and alkalis dissolve the organic component (fat and oil deposits). At the same time, the simultaneous combination of alkali and acid in the cleaning product is impossible, since they neutralize each other.

In addition, these chemicals are aggressive towards rubber and plastic, which requires additional neutralization after their application, followed by flushing of the entire system. Therefore, compositions on a purely acidic or alkaline basis are extremely rare on sale.

Most often, preparations for washing SOD are two-component - including a separate bottle of acid and alkaline cleaner in the kit. Sometimes a neutralizing flushing component is added to them.

Neutral "cleaners" are among the most expensive means. Successfully removing various types of contaminants, both fatty and mineral deposits, at the same time they do not adversely affect the non-metallic elements of SOD. They are used not only for major cleaning of the system, but also for preventive purposes during the next coolant change. Neutral formulations include:

• substances of active action for complex cleaning of pollution;
• dispersant additives that exclude the possibility of re-adherence of washed particles to the surrounding surface;
• protective agents for plastic and rubber from the effects of acids and alkalis;
• anti-corrosion components.

Choice of drug

Before buying a flushing agent, it is necessary to determine the predominant nature of the coolant contamination. When inorganic components (scale, products of corrosion and oxidation of metals) prevail, a white precipitate with a rusty tint is observed under the cap of the radiator tank or expander. For this case, choose an acid cleaner based on phosphoric acid or its phosphates.

Organic pollution (decomposition products of antifreeze, oil, dirt) gives out a cloudy color of antifreeze. To remove them, you must use an alkaline detergent. Along with the main elements: surface-active substances (surfactants), a regulator of the acid-base balance of pH, the preparation must contain complexing additives that promote intensive dissolution and removal of mud residues.

It is good when the composition contains anti-corrosion inhibitors that protect parts made of metal. Finally, for water-based rinses, deionized water should be used and labeled accordingly on the packaging. Ordinary water contains salts that cause the appearance of limestone formations.

Tip: when choosing a specific means for flushing the cooling system, consider the condition of the radiator, other devices and the fluid to be replaced.

What to look for when buying

When choosing a liquid in the store for the upcoming flushing of the engine cooling system, you should pay attention to Special attention the following questions:

• Product cost. The temptingly low amount on the price tag is most likely a consequence of the manufacturer's savings on active substances.
• Content volume. The optimal packaging capacity is 0.3 - 0.5 liters. Moreover, the higher the density of the composition, the more active-useful substances it contains. Therefore, among washes of the same volume, heavier ones are preferable.
• Cleanup duration. Too short a washout period (2 to 5 minutes) should alert. Perhaps this is an incorrect promise, and the system will not be flushed enough, which will devalue the time and money spent in vain. It is possible that the composition is overly aggressive, and can damage some parts. You can check the second assumption by immersing a piece of aluminum in washing. The appearance of bubbles indicates excessive chemical activity of the solution. In this case, the instruction should contain an indication of the need to rinse with water at the end of the SOD procedure.
• The presence of sediment at the bottom of the vial. At normal temperature, the consistency of the solution should be homogeneous, without any secretions. Otherwise, they can also appear inside the cooling circuit.
• A good preparation after shaking should not form foam. Its presence in the system after draining the detergent will cause a certain amount of cleaner to enter the freshly poured cooling antifreeze, which will degrade its properties.

Overview of some brands

Wynn's Cooling System Flush

Powerful acid-free Belgian cleaner. In addition to rust and scale, it dissolves oil secretions, dirt, does not affect rubber elements and metal parts. It has the most effective effect when washing old deposits. The capacity of the jar is 325 ml, the price is from 250 to 300 rubles.

Bardahl Cooling System Fast Flush

French Fast Wash works on different types formed residues: scale, oxidation products, salt formation and colloidal compositions. Wash fluid ingredients loosen deposits by breaking molecular bonds. Flushing is recommended for all types of coolant: C, D, as well as universal and special. The capacity of the can is 0.5 liters, the drug costs about 450 rubles.

LIQUI MOLY Kuhler Reiniger

This cooling system cleaner represents German products on the Russian market. Due to the absence of aggressive acids and alkalis, the product does not have a destructive effect on plastic and rubber elements. The average price of a jar of 0.3 liters is around 485 rubles.

HI GEAR 7 minutes Radiator Flush

Thanks to its concentrated formula, the American preparation removes all possible consequences life of SOD: rust, scale, grease, antifreeze exhaustion even in a neglected situation. The absence of acids eliminates the need for neutralization. The product is compatible with common materials used by all global car manufacturers. A metal can with a capacity of 325 ml costs 350 - 500 rubles.

LAVR Radiator Flush 2 in 1

Two-component set Russian production. Consists of separate acidic and alkaline solvents. Composition No. 1 on an acid basis dissolves lime formations and oxides, and special elements ensure that the latter are maintained in a dispersed state. A novelty are protective components that create a buffer phosphate film that protects parts of the cooling system from acid attack.

Alkaline composition No. 2 dissolves organic excretions and neutralizes the effects of an acidic environment. Experts recognize this drug as the safest, and its use for cleaning especially neglected SOD is the most effective. With a capacity of 0.33 liters per can, the set costs about 525 rubles.

Flushing the cooling system is not necessary occasionally. This procedure is recommended to be performed at the next coolant change or every two years.

So, if you want your engine to always be clean, cool, and agile, changing your coolant should be given the same attention as changing engine oil. In order for the antifreeze to retain its qualities longer, before pouring a fresh portion, it is necessary to flush the engine cooling system from the remnants of the old fluid. The best means for this procedure are special factory-made flushing preparations.

The process of periodic cleaning of pipes and components of the cooling system in the engine is called flushing. In fact, flushing the engine is the same necessary procedure as the timely replacement of oil and air filters. If you do not flush the cooling system in time, then during the next replacement of the coolant, scale and dirt that has accumulated on the tubes will get inside the valves. At the same time, during the operation of the car, all channels in the radiator and pipes will inevitably clog. As a result, it may be necessary to replace the pump and adjust the TPS. In the worst case, you will have to change the entire cooling system.

How is the engine clogged?

Many of the car owners are faced with the following situation - the coolant that has just been poured into the engine gradually turns black. This is due to the fact that when filling, clean liquid passes through dirty radiator tubes, as a result of which it changes color and simultaneously clogs the remaining clean hoses and engine pipes. As a result, engine power drops to 10% and characteristic noise appears in the radiator.

At the same time, it must be understood that the radiator is contaminated not only with dust, but also with specific deposits. The composition and structure of these deposits depends on the coolant used by the driver. In 90% of cases, the cooling system is filled with:

• Water. And until now, individual motorists pour water directly into the radiator. During the summer months, this leads to the formation of scale on the pipes, which leads to clogging of the entire system. In winter, the water in the radiator turns into ice cubes, which makes the engine unusable.
• Antifreeze. Antifreeze effectively cools the engine (especially in winter time), but at the same time, its gradual decomposition begins after 1-2 months. The decomposition products enter the inside of the cooling system with the liquid and clog the pipes.

Reasons for insufficient engine cooling

• The appearance of extensive plaque on the inner surface of the walls of the highways and radiator pipes. Plaque on the tubes appears in the process of oxidation of the coolant under the influence of a constant temperature difference in the engine. Since the plaque that has appeared in the hoses has low thermal conductivity, the engine does not cool. The heat transfer between the engine and the fluid tubes is severely limited, and the heat simply does not pass through the resulting scale layer.
• Contamination of the internal pipes of the radiator with dust and small metal particles. When dust appears in the cooling system, heat exchange with the engine is completely disrupted. In turn, small metal particles will contribute to the rapid overheating of the engine.
• The appearance of an air lock inside the system. With the formation of an air lock in the tubes, the coolant cannot fully circulate through all the lines.

Advice: If you notice that the engine suddenly stalls at full speed, the problem is probably in the engine cooling system.

As a result, if you do not flush the cooling system with your own hands or in a car service, in a couple of years you will have to completely replace the engine.

How to properly flush the radiator?

Flushing the cooling system in the engine is carried out by the following methods:

• With distilled water;
• Using acidified water;
• Using special means for flushing cooling systems.

Advice: choose a specific radiator cleaner depending on the condition of the machine. If the tubes are all clogged with scale, and even an impact screwdriver does not help knock it down, then use special solutions from the store.

When carrying out work with your own hands, a number of requirements must be observed:

1. In winter, work should be carried out in a warm garage, and in summer - in the fresh air.
2. Before starting work on cleaning pipes and hoses, all antifreeze must be drained.
3. If the engine is still hot, it must be allowed to cool completely.
4. The machine must be on a level surface.
5. In order to protect your hands from contact with hot elements of the engine, be sure to wear protective gloves.
6. Before draining the old antifreeze, be sure to install a small container under the radiator structure.
7. Turn it all out drain plugs, and start draining the antifreeze first from the engine, and then drain it from the radiator.

Flushing the engine and radiator with distilled water

The most inexpensive, but at the same time effective method flushing the system with a slight contamination of the tubes is distilled water. The whole process will consist of 3 stages:

1. It is necessary to pour distilled water directly into the radiator housing.
2. Next, you need to start the car and let it idle for 15-25 minutes.
3. Then be sure to turn off the machine and drain all the water from the nozzles.

These steps will need to be repeated several times with an interval of 20-30 minutes. At the end of the work, the water in the cooling system must remain clean. Most often, distilled water is used to flush the engine in a recently purchased car or with minimal antifreeze contamination.

Flushing hoses and cooling pipes in the engine with acidified water

If you find traces of scale or decay and corrosion products in the previously drained coolant, then the water must be “acidified” to clean the system. To achieve this task, you will need to prepare a small amount of a slightly acidic aqueous solution with your own hands. The composition of the liquid includes samples:

• citric acid;
• lactic acid;
• Acetic essence;
• Caustic soda.

The flushing procedure consists of the following operations:

• We prepare a slightly acidic solution from the indicated ingredients and pour it into the cooling system.
• Start the engine and let it run for 15 minutes.
• Next, turn off the engine, and do not drain the fluid from the radiator. In order for all the scale to go away, the solution must be absorbed into the deposits (it takes several hours).
• Drain the solution acidified water after 2-3 hours and repeat these operations again.

In total, it takes about 5-7 hours to flush the pipes and hoses. Upon completion of work, the rest of the acidified solution must be removed from the radiator by flushing with distilled water.

It is enough to spend a day on this procedure, and you will long time get rid of scale in the radiator. However, this method has its drawback - if you add too much acid, it will be absorbed not only into scale, but also into the hoses themselves. Subsequently, the acid will simply corrode the surface of the rubber and plastic components of the engine, and they will have to be completely replaced.

Advice: after flushing the cooling system with an acid solution, be sure to check the pressure in the tires of the car.

Flushing the radiator and engine with purchased products

Now modern products of the chemical industry can effectively eliminate any scale and pollution formed in the engine. As a rule, all purchased funds are conditionally divided into 4 types:

• Acid-based products;
• Alkaline and saline solutions;
• Two-component solution;
• Neutral cleaning agents.

Since scale and decomposed antifreeze products appear when the engine cools, the cooling system must be cleaned either only with an acid or only with alkalis. There is no universal cleaning agent, because acidic and alkaline solutions are neutralized with each other. That is why special purchased solutions are produced either on an acid or on an alkaline basis.

However, there is a so-called two-component flushing solution that acts on the cooling system in 2 stages: first, the engine and radiator are flushed with the first component, then with the second. In turn, neutral solutions are based on the work of catalysts and have a neutral pH. Most neutral radiator cleaners are produced by the factory as a kind of antifreeze additive or as a special coolant concentrate.

A feature of the use of special purchased solutions is the need to pour them into the tank once and not think about the state of the cooling system for 1000-2000 km. Such products wash all the above contaminants, while dissolving scale and sediment to colloidal states that do not contaminate the small radiator pipes and pipes on the engine.

Video: flushing the cooling system

Lubrication and cooling systems are critical components that directly affect engine performance. In a serviceable car, the circuits through which oil and antifreeze circulate are sealed relative to each other and the liquids should not interact in any way, let alone mix.

If suddenly the presence of oil is detected in the expansion tank, then it is urgent to carry out diagnostics and identify the cause of the incident. As a rule, lubricant can enter the cooling system circuit from two faults:

• Violation of the tightness between the head and the cylinder block due to loosening of the mounting bolts, violation of the integrity of the gasket between them, changes in the plane of the head or microcracks in the cylinder block. As a rule, these malfunctions occur due to engine overheating.
• On diesel engines - due to a leak in the oil cooler.

In any case, if signs of the presence of oil in the coolant are found, competent vehicle diagnostics and repairs are necessary. After the cause of the mixing of liquids is found and eliminated, it is necessary to remove the remaining oil from the cooling system.

The fact is that an aggressive environment with high acidity, which occurs when antifreeze and oil are mixed, will rapidly corrode plastic and rubber parts (pipes, gaskets, seals), and also contribute to the formation of corrosion foci and its development on metal parts. Also, the oil can collect in clots and clog the channels in the cooling jacket of the cylinder block.

Simply draining the contaminated coolant and refilling with new coolant will be ineffective, oil residues may remain on the internal surfaces and mix with the antifreeze again. To avoid such problems, the engine cooling system must be flushed. This can be done with special chemicals in a car service or on your own, or by resorting to folk methods.

Cleaning the system with special auto chemicals

On the Russian market Here are a few effective cleaners that can be used to flush the cooling system of oil residue:

• ABRO AB-505 - removes limescale, rust and oil deposits. Volume 354 ml, poured into a cooling system filled with water. After heating the engine to operating temperature, it is necessary to let it idle for half an hour. Then, turn off the engine. Then it is necessary to flush the system with the engine running, with the drain valve open, constantly pouring water into the radiator or into the expansion tank until the drained liquid becomes clear.
• LIQUI MOLY Kuhlerreiniger- an effective agent containing enzymes and surfactants, designed to dissolve and remove scale and dirt (including grease) from the cooling system and neutralize acid. The composition does not contain aggressive alkalis and acids, so it can be recommended to use it with each replacement. It is neutral to rubber, metal and plastic. For cleaning, it is necessary to pour liquid into the system (one jar for 10 liters of antifreeze). Then warm up the engine and let it run for Idling 10 - 30 minutes. The filled liquid can be left in the system for up to three hours, and during the use of the machine. After draining the old antifreeze, the system must be rinsed with running water and you can fill in a new one.
• LAVR - set for two-stage, complete flushing. Specially designed to work with very difficult contaminants and consists of two bottles:
  1. Rust and scale cleaner (first stage) - poured into an empty system, and then it is filled with clean, preferably distilled water, to minimum level. Then you need to warm up the engine and leave it to work for half an hour.
  2. Cleaner of oil-emulsion deposits and various residues of the decomposition of the old coolant (second stage). After draining the first solution, the liquid from the second bottle is poured into the system, and the system is again filled with water to the minimum mark. The car is started, warmed up and left to run idle for half an hour. Then the solution is drained, the system is refilled with clean water, the engine is warmed up and left to run for 15 minutes. The last procedure should be repeated until clean water begins to drain from the system and after that it is possible to fill the system with antifreeze.

If there is a slight contamination of antifreeze with oil products, then other LAVR flushing fluids - classic (Classic), for commercial vehicles (Fortrucks) and synthetic (Syntetic) - which are also designed to remove traces of oil, may be suitable.

In addition to the listed washes, you can pick up analogues from other manufacturers - Bizol, Pingo, CRC. All of them effectively dissolve various contaminants and do not damage the parts and components included in the cooling system.

Flushing the engine cooling system in folk ways

There are exotic and less civilized flushing methods invented craftsmen when special auto chemicals weren't so affordable.

Instead of contaminated antifreeze, serum is poured into the system, slightly above the minimum level in the expansion tank (up to 10 liters can be used up). There is no consensus on how long to keep whey in the engine. Someone travels 200-300 kilometers with serum filled in, then it is drained. Someone advises to fill it up, warm up the engine and leave it to idle for a period of 5 minutes to one hour.

If the drained liquid is very dirty and with oil clots, then the whey washing procedure can be repeated using one of the above methods. After flushing, it is necessary to spill the system with running water, fill in clean water, once again warm up the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes. If the drained liquid is clean, then you can fill in new antifreeze.

Carbonated drinks

Cola, Sprite and Fanta contain phosphoric acid, which can dissolve almost anything. Mixing is carried out in the following proportion - half the volume of water or antifreeze and the rest is a drink. The engine is warmed up and allowed to run for five to six minutes. Then they turn off the engine, and leave to settle for half an hour.

After draining the soda, it is necessary to perform a long flushing of the system with water to wash off the remaining sugar.

Lemon acid

For cleaning, citric acid must be dissolved in water at the rate of 1 kg of powder per 10 liters of liquid. With little pollution, the amount of acid can be reduced to 500 g.

With the solution filled in, at medium speed, the engine should run for 15-20 minutes, and then let it settle for about 45 minutes. After draining, it is also necessary to rinse the system well with running water.

Various household detergents for dishes very well launder fat and oil from any surfaces. They are also used to flush the cooling system. Half a bottle of any agent is added to the system; in case of severe pollution, you can also fill in a full half-liter bottle.

The liquid must be dissolved in water and poured into the cooling system. Warm up the car and let it run for 15 minutes. If the drained liquid contains a large amount of oil, you can repeat the procedure several times. Alternatively, with such a flooded solution, you can drive a car for a couple of days or for a run of about 100 km.

When clean water begins to drain from the system (without visible oil impurities), then it is necessary to flush the system with running water and you can fill in fresh antifreeze. Household detergents have increased foaming, so when warming up the machine with a solution filled in, it is necessary to control the expansion tank and the radiator filler neck.

Which cleaning method to choose

If you choose how to flush the cooling system from the remaining oil, then it will be more efficient, more profitable and safer to use washing liquids. They are specially designed for cleaning and do not contain substances aggressive to engine parts and cooling systems. Accordingly, they cannot harm the details. At a cost, buying a flush often comes out cheaper than folk remedies. The listed special drugs are in the price range from 200 to 600 rubles.

cleaning folk remedies does not guarantee good result. On the Internet on the forums you can find a lot of discussions about how someone was helped folk ways and some don't. Their use can not only not help, but also harm. For example, phosphoric acid found in carbonated drinks can corrode fittings and seals.

Conclusion

When flushing the engine, filling the cooling system, as well as draining liquids, must be done when the engine is cold, in order to exclude the possibility of engine damage from temperature changes and burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

The coolant, circulating in the cooling jacket, practically comes to a boil, and when there are malfunctions in the system, it really boils from a very hot engine internal combustion. If antifreeze boils, then, therefore, power unit overheats. And when the cylinder block gasket burns out, oil seeps into the coolant. Oil can also get into the engine cooling system in case of other violations of the tightness of the cooling jacket.

All liquid turns into water and forms scale and sediment on the walls of the shirt, radiator and pipes.

Over time, any liquid turns into water, loses its properties, forms scale on the walls of the shirt, radiator and pipes, leaves a residue. If a sealant was used in the joints of the rubber parts of the system, then there is a possibility that there are pieces of it in the coolant. In all these cases, the engine cooling system needs to be cleaned. How to flush the engine cooling system?
Before you start flushing the engine cooling system with your own hands, you need to decide what opportunities you have, how severe the pollution is in a particular car. From how much The right way you have chosen depends on the result of cleaning the engine cooling system, as well as the consequences of flushing (the fact is that flushing the cooling system with chemicals breaks through clogged channels, including those that you don’t need to touch, the result is punching cylinder head gaskets, corrosion of old rubber-plastic parts, etc.).
So, you completely change the coolant (coolant replacement schedule: old car, antifreeze - every 45 thousand km or once a year, new car, good antifreeze- 100-250 thousand km or every five years) or its color has darkened a little, there are small traces of rust, dirt - in this case, ordinary distilled water will help you (it is sold in auto chemical goods stores).

How to flush the engine cooling system yourself

Manufacturers of auto chemical goods have created a large number of special formulations to flush the system internal combustion engine cooling.

1. We will prepare the tools: heat-protective gloves, a container of 10-20 liters, a key of 12-16 (usually 13, 14), napkins, a funnel, a screwdriver, if you have to remove the pipe from the radiator.
2. We substitute the container. We unscrew the drain plugs: on the cylinder block in the form of a free-standing bolt, on the radiator in the form of a plastic screw from below (or the lower pipe).
3. We drain the coolant, evaluate the degree of its contamination.
4. We screw the drain plugs into place.
5. Pour distilled water into the expansion tank and into the filler neck of the radiator (if any) - 8 liters (sometimes 16 if the engine is large).
6. We start the engine for fifteen to twenty minutes (it is necessary that the thermostat has time to open a large circle).
7. If in doubt, wait for the water to cool slightly, then drain it by unscrewing the drain plugs and substituting an empty container.
8. Assess the degree of contamination of the drained water, if it seems very dirty to you, then fill in distilled clean water for another circle.
9. Tighten the drain screw and plug.
10. Pour fresh into the tank.
11. Start the engine, the fluid level will drop, add antifreeze to the mark.
12. Do the same with the radiator filler neck.
13. The coolant has been replaced, now it needs to.

To do this, loosen the clamp on the pipe going to the stove and wait until coolant flows out of it. Or remove the pipe from the throttle assembly and supply air through the hole expansion tank until coolant comes out of the throttle body.
If you know how to properly flush the engine cooling system, then an air lock will not work. To do this, before you start pouring antifreeze, remove the pipe in the highest position of the system (coolant supply fitting in the carburetor or throttle on the injector) and fill in the coolant until it flows out of it (hold the pipe vertically with the hole up).
Let's consider another situation. Antifreeze has become almost black, it has a lot of dirt, rust, there is an oil film. To flush the engine cooling system of oil, you need more serious means than distilled water. Manufacturers of auto chemical goods have created a large number of special compositions for flushing the engine cooling system. If funds allow you, then purchase one of the seven minutes from good brand(for example, Lavr, Liqui Moly, Hi Gear and the like) or a cleaning complex consisting of several washes.

Methods for flushing the cooling system

Chemical flushes have different purposes: from rust, from scale, as well as flushing the engine cooling system from emulsion (oil, gasoline). Attached to the package detailed instructions on the use of this composition.
However, it is expensive. There are cheaper and more proven ways to clean the block cooling jacket, pipes and radiator. So, :

There are cheap and proven ways to clean the block cooling jacket, pipes and radiator.

• distilled water;
• lemon acid;
• vinegar;
• Coca Cola;
• caustic soda;
• milk serum;
• sprite.

Flushing the cooling system is one of those actions that you should learn to do yourself. The event is not complicated, does not require special tools and skills, and, most importantly, it is expensive if it is done in a car service. The danger of a chemical burn can be eliminated if the liquid is allowed to cool before draining (many manuals say that you need to drain hot, but believe me, this is absolutely not necessary). Easy repair for you.