How to clean a radiator. Radiator cleaner - how to get rid of limescale? Folk remedies for flushing the cooling system

The performance of a car depends on very little things. Due to leaking rubber pipes, some of the antifreeze can leak out of the cooling system, and unnoticed overheating will result in a colossal repair. But even with a completely serviceable technique, the car engine is awaiting very strange collisions. The radiator becomes clogged with dirt and ceases to perform its functions.

Mud and salt

Before taking on an expensive car wash, it is better to thoroughly make sure of its necessity. If the cooling fan is often humming under the hood, and there is no reason for this, then it's time to take a look at the radiator with a flashlight. Contamination is visible to the naked eye. Dried insects, needles, blades of grass and winter salt huddled between the honeycombs. In the worst case, it's just a crust of gray solid, impervious to air currents.

“There are two optimal periods of the year for cleaning a radiator. This is April and July, "says CarFix technical expert Oleg Chirkov... In summer, cooling combs are clogged with poplar fluff and sticky buds. Under the influence of temperature, they become denser and penetrate deep into the cells, where they are sintered into a dense mass together with dust. Air flows cannot penetrate such a pillow, and the cooling process of the motor is disrupted. But the saddest thing is when winter mud mixed with salt is applied to the old poplar fluff.

It usually takes several years before a brand new radiator experiences a heat dissipation deficit. In some southern cities with a lot of dust, the pollution process is delayed for 7 or more years. In Moscow, with an abundance of winter salt and chemical reagents, it is slightly less. The risk group includes cars that drive for a long time on intercity routes. The speed is high, the energy of collision with dust particles is high, the dirt digs deep into the honeycomb.

Major problems await those cars that hang on to dusty trucks for hours. Not only do stones fly from under the wheels into the glass, so the rising clouds of dust clog not only the radiator, but all the filters. In winter, an emulsion of water, sand and dissolved chemicals flies from the trucks. This substance rests on the radiator and literally cements the space between the cells. Under the influence of temperature, the slurry is coked into a hard crust. And here you should not be fooled: it itself will never fall off, it requires thorough cleaning.

Water is dangerous

The problem is that washing the radiator is tricky. technological process... Few people know that the car has not one, but several radiators. In addition to the large front one, there is an auxiliary one, there is also an oil cooler and a cooler automatic box gear. They are oriented towards the incoming air currents and are mounted in the depth of the engine compartment. It is the hidden radiators that are often in the most contaminated state and are the cause of engine and transmission overheating. It is impossible to get to them without disassembling some of the removable parts of the front end. Usually this is a bumper, grill and other fastening devices.

Next, the most difficult thing is to wash the radiators so that the car does not completely get stuck. Some would-be washers simply take a "Karcher" and launch a jet at a pressure of 150 bar at engine compartment... Often, such things get up on ordinary car washes by accidentally hired employees. For modern car this barbaric death procedure is similar. Electronics fail, interruptions in the operation of sensors and sensors begin. The on-board system gives errors. And these are the most harmless of misfortunes. It is much worse if the jet hits the black box near the radiator, which hides the engine control unit. Then write wasted, repairs will cost several tens of thousands of rubles.

In general, washing a radiator at a modern "seven-year plan" is a complex technical process with a predetermined algorithm of actions. Car wash should be performed by the masters of certified car services who are familiar with the technology and have a permit.

Meanwhile, radiators are often washed by owners themselves in garages. This applies mainly to very old cars without complex electronics and with uncomplicated engine cooling systems. Antifreeze is preliminarily drained, the rubber cabinets are disconnected and the radiator is pulled out of the car. Then they put it on the bricks, take the "karcher", and the dirt is cleaned out with a stream of water. But here you need to be careful, as high water pressure can damage the honeycomb. Water in confined spaces increases the initial pressure many times over, which is what all hydraulics are based on. The honeycomb is deformed and can leak out under the influence of breaking off dirt. In general, it is better to twist the pressure to a minimum, and pre-treat the radiator with chemicals to better peel off dirt. It is necessary to repeat the procedure depending on the degree of contamination.

It is difficult to determine which component of the car cooling system is the main one, but hardly anyone would argue that the radiator in this list occupies one of the key places. Being in the front of the car and being cooled by the oncoming air flow, it simultaneously collects from the outside all the dust and dirt that it encounters while driving.

The internal structure also contributes to the accumulation of rust, scale and other components in the system. Accordingly, first of all, if certain problems with engine overheating occur, you need to clean and flush the car's radiator, taking into account the above factors.

To effectively clean the heat exchanger, do it yourself, you need to figure it out: in its structure and principle of operation, possible malfunctions, how and by what means and methods it is better to clean the arisen contamination inside and outside.

The principle of the engine cooling system is simple: passing through the jacket of the cylinder block, the coolant picks up excess heat and, under the pressure created by the pump, enters the radiator, which works on the principle of a heat exchanger. Here, passing through the core from the upper tank to the lower one, thanks to the blowing of air, the antifreeze cools down.

The core of radiators is made of copper or aluminum, depending on their size, it is in the form of honeycomb, plate or tubular. Between these channels, through which the liquid passes, transverse strips are fixed, mainly made of brass. They significantly increase the surface area intended for cooling the antifreeze, and also contribute to imparting greater rigidity to the entire structure.

For better cooling engine under certain conditions, for example, when driving slowly, when the blowing of the heat exchanger is not so intense, a fan is located behind it, which turns on at these moments.

Radiator malfunctions

The most common heat exchanger malfunctions are:

• Clogging by rust, scale and other debris inside the core.

• Dirt on the outside of the honeycomb of the heat exchanger with fluff, etc.

• Debris clogging the duct from the inside in the radiator pipes.

The following factors will tell you about the occurrence of this kind of malfunction:

• Frequent switching on and operation at increased fan speeds, even when driving at high speed.
• Constant twitching of the arrow temperature sensor or its indications for an overestimated temperature of the cooling system.

• In the cold period, poor heating of the car interior.

These factors should not be ignored, which can lead to overheating of the engine, which will be signaled not only by the sensor, but also by the cover torn off by steam. expansion tank, but clean the inside or outside of the heat exchanger, depending on the type of contamination.

Flushing the radiator without disassembly

To clean the heat exchanger with your own hands, inside without removing, fluids of various compositions are used, both produced by the industry and using improvised means.

To clean a car radiator with your own hands, stores sell products specially produced for these purposes: 3ton Super, STEP UP, Radiator Flush and others.

Cleaning the heat exchanger and the entire cooling system at home can be done with simple citric acid and Coca-Cola.

Before starting flushing with your own hands, you always need to wait for the engine to cool, otherwise there is a risk of scalding yourself with steam when opening the radiator or expansion tank cap.

To clean the inside of the radiator with citric acid, you need:

• Make a solution based on the proportions of 100 grams of citric acid for the amount of liquid (distilled water) that is needed to fill the engine cooling system.
• Draining, waste liquid and filling, the prepared mixture needs to be driven by car for about a week. During this time, interacting with citric acid, all impurities inside the heat exchanger and cooling system will dissolve.
• At the end of cleaning, draining this liquid and rinsing the entire system from the inside with distilled water, a new antifreeze is poured.

Another handy radiator flush is Coca-Cola. Cleaning inside the radiator of various deposits of Coca-Cola occurs due to the phosphoric acid in its composition. This is done like this:

• After draining the spent coolant, you need to fill the entire volume of the system with Coca-Cola, previously heated before this, so that carbon dioxide comes out.

• If the pollution is small, then the engine will run for 5-10 minutes, when the heat exchanger has not been washed for a long time, then for its affective cleaning it is worth taking a ride with Coca-Cola for one day.
• Then, as in all such cases, drain the cleaning liquid, flush the entire cooling system with distilled water and fill with fresh antifreeze.

External cleaning of the radiator

While driving, a lot of all kinds of dirt adhere to the outside of the radiator surface: fluff, insect bodies, and so on. Getting stuck between the combs, they significantly impair the airflow to the heat exchanger.

There are several methods for cleaning the outside of the heat exchanger without dismantling - with water or pressurized steam, but this method is not so effective due to the difficulty in accessing the radiator surface. Therefore, experts advise you to clean the heat exchanger with your own hands, after removing it from the car.

The removed radiator is cleaned of dirt with your own hands using a regular brush, as well as water and steam.

Correctly flushing dirt from the radiator with water is necessary with a small pressure, on both sides, so as not to damage the soft surface of the heat exchanger.

For better steam cleaning, you will need a steam generator. By treating the radiator grill with steam, blowing it gently without deforming and causing scratches, you can more effectively clean it from dirt stuck inside the honeycomb.

If it is not possible to clean the outside of the radiator with water pressure or steam, then we do this procedure with an ordinary brush or a brush. Having lowered the removed heat exchanger into a suitable container, and having previously treated the contamination with foam, carefully wash out all the dirt that has gotten between the plates with a brush.

The radiator in the car, this is how the structure is arranged, is located in front, maintains the desired temperature of the coolant, and at the same time collects all the dirt and dust encountered on the road.

In addition to pollution from outside, there is also internal pollution. For normal operation of the entire engine, the vehicle's radiator needs to be flushed from time to time. This is a relatively simple work in terms of technology, so you can do it yourself.

Why you need to clean and flush the radiator

The radiator must be cleaned systematically. A car radiator is needed to cool the engine. threatens with irreparable results: the engine may need to be replaced, overhaul and rather big material costs. To avoid all this, you can only rinse and clean the radiator in time, both inside and outside. It takes little time, but will remove the problem.

What you need:

• antifreeze (4-8 liters);
• distilled water (can be replaced with coolant -37ºС);
• radiator flushing agent;
• a pan or bucket for drainage;
• watering hose;
• work gloves;
• soft brush;
• bucket and soapy water;
• safety glasses;
• waste containers;
• rags;
• a set of screwdrivers and keys.

We clean the inside of the radiator

First of all, you need to make sure it has cooled down. When hot, the liquid is under high pressure, you can get burned during operation. And pouring cold water will hurt hot engine... In order to clean the car radiator with your own hands without damaging the radiator honeycomb, in order to do everything right, you need to observe simple rules work.

Beginning of work

Raise and secure the engine hood to prevent it from falling. It is important to properly dispose of used coolant. This liquid is toxic, has a slightly sweet smell and therefore attracts children and animals. This procedure should not be left unattended, or waste should not be dumped on the ground. The containers that are used for waste will not then end up in the kitchen. It should also fit easily under the car and be wide enough to make it easier to flush the car's radiator.

When a suitable container has been found, place it under the radiator at the level of the valve.

Remove the radiator cover

The coolant pressure depends on the engine type and is written on the radiator cap. The lid itself has a snap ring attached between the top and a rubber mount. This spring helps to maintain pressure. If the spring compresses easily, then it is time to replace it. This is also necessary if rust is found on the mount. It is recommended to replace the cover every 2 years, together with flushing the radiator.

Remember that there are different covers for different pressures.

Checking hoses and radiator clamps

There are two hoses in the radiator: one on the cover, it serves to remove hot fluid from the engine. The second one at the bottom, it supplies cold liquid to the motor. To change hoses, the radiator must be dried and checked before starting work. If the hoses show leaks or cracks, if there is rust on the clamps, they must be replaced. If the hoses become soft, this also indicates that the hoses need to be replaced, and it is better to replace both at once.

Removing the coolant

It is imperative to unscrew the valve with gloves, since the cooler is toxic. The liquid should drain into a collection container under the machine. Then close the valve and place the waste in a container prepared in advance. Then, to rinse the car's radiator and place a container under the valve.

We wash the radiator

Use a garden hose to fill the radiator with water and pour it completely into the collecting container. This must be repeated until the water is clear. The water used for flushing must also be placed in a container for subsequent disposal.

If the radiator and cooling systems are heavily contaminated, you can use a special cleaning fluid. Pour a bottle of DETARTRANT RADIATEUR into the radiator, start the engine and let it run for 15-20 minutes to better distribute the drug through the cooling system. Then you need to clean the system and rinse with water with the drain taps open and the engine running.

Change the coolant

A mixture of antifreeze and water is considered ideal. It is better to use distilled water, since it does not contain minerals that can affect the properties of the mixture. In this case, it will no longer work normally. It is better to mix the necessary components in a clean container beforehand. You can also use ready-made coolant. The trading network has such tools as AUTOMAX or ELF.

Most radiators hold no more than eight liters of fluid, so you should decide in advance on the right amount.

Removing air from the cooling system

Air pockets must be removed from the cooling system. Let the engine run with the radiator open for 15 to 20 minutes. Then turn on the heater to the maximum. This will allow the coolant to circulate and the air will gradually disappear through the radiator neck. After removing excess air, the vacant space should be filled. Topping up the required amount of coolant. Be careful when doing this, as hot air vapor will escape from the radiator. Then you need to close the lid and wipe off the excess liquid with a rag.

Remove and clean

After flushing the car's radiator, check for possible leaks and splashes from under the valve. Wipe off all smudges with a rag or rag. The used cleaning agents containing aggressive agents, remaining on the surface of the radiator, can cause corrosion, which will lead to deterioration of its constituent elements and early failure. Conversely, antifreeze contains ethylene glycol and various additives that prevent the formation of scale and various deposits and rust in the radiator.

External cleaning

Often overheating car engine may be caused by heavy dirt on the outside of the radiator. For example, it can be clogged with poplar fluff or dust. To solve this problem, the radiator is often blown with compressed air. You just need to be careful with the pressure, as it can damage the radiator honeycomb.

It is also recommended to wash and clean the outside of the car's radiator. Use a nylon brush and soapy water to scrape off dirt from the radiator grille. It is necessary to clean in the direction of the radiator mounts, as opposite movements can damage fragile metal. The clean grate should be rinsed with a direct jet of water and all impurities must be removed completely.

It is undesirable to use chemical fluids based on aggressive acids. This can result in significant damage to the entire cooling system, hoses and radiator seals.

Video - washing car radiators

Video - cleaning the radiator of the cooling system

Conclusion!

Periodic flushing of the car radiator will significantly extend its service life and ensure the normal operation of the engine. If self replacement liquid presents some difficulty, it is better to contact the nearest service station for help.

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Proper care of your car cooling system from expert technical supportLiqui Moly.

Spring has come and with the first heat, increased attention is required to the car's cooling system. Caring for the cooling system is a rule for a competent car owner, and all operations can be performed independently, without the involvement of specialists.

Use process Liqui moly Kuhler Aussenreiniger

Winter in a big city does not pass without leaving a trace for the car in general and the cooling system in particular. The main enemy of the cooling radiator is an anti-icing agent mixed with road dirt. This unpleasant substance, getting on the heated honeycomb of the radiator, creates a hard crust that prevents normal heat transfer. As a result, a perfectly serviceable engine starts to overheat.

To prevent the engine from overheating and the radiator to boil, the first thing to do is to clean the outer surface of the radiator. The product of Liqui Moly - Kuhler Aussenreiniger will help you with this.

Kuhler Aussenreiniger Radiator Exterior Cleaner

The composition should be applied to the honeycomb of a cold radiator and allowed to act for a few minutes. The Kuhler Aussenreiniger quickly penetrates multi-layer dirt deposits and separates them from the surface. When flushing away deposits, it is important not to use a strong jet of water in order not to damage or cut through the thin radiator tubes.

It must be remembered: It is forbidden to wash radiators with devices high pressure!

After use, the cleaner leaves a protective film that prevents rapid aluminum oxidation and re-contamination. It can also be used to clean absolutely any radiators, intercoolers, air conditioner evaporators, etc.

What to do with small leaks of antifreeze?

When caring for the cooling system, on used cars, it often happens that after removing dirt from the radiator, a small leak of antifreeze appears, the radiator begins to sweat. This is a sign that corrosion has done its job and you need to prepare to replace the radiator. But you can wait with the replacement of the radiator. Liqui Moly Kuhler-Dichter radiator sealant was created specifically for sealing minor damage.

Kuhler-Dichter Cooling System Sealant

In order for the sealant to work as efficiently as possible, it must be shaken up and poured directly into the radiator when the engine is cold (it is assumed that the radiator is not filled with liquid to the very top).

If there is a lot of antifreeze and there is not enough space for sealants, some of the antifreeze must be removed from the system, for example, by squeezing the radiator hose. The excess will pour out in this case. An important point: antifreeze is an environmentally harmful product, so it is imperative to collect the part that spills out into a container, or, in extreme cases, with a rag. After pouring the sealant, you need to close the radiator cap, turn on the engine and you can see how the leak disappears literally before our eyes. The sealant is especially effective in those places where the leak cannot be localized, and the antifreeze goes somewhere.

The LIQUI MOLY cooling system sealant works effectively and does not clog the cooling system, which is confirmed by the test results carried out by the "Avtoparad" publication.

Such simple measures for the care of the cooling system need to be done before the start of the summer season.

The engine cooling system, like any other constantly functioning element of the car, needs regular maintenance. Ignoring deposits inside the radiator and the entire cooling system can lead to disastrous consequences.

You can flush the radiator without any problems on your own using improvised and special equipment.

How does engine cooling work?

Considering the average temperature of the engine (especially during long periods of operation), its quality cooling is vital. The whole operating system is arranged quite simply - the tubes coming out of the radiator pass through all the vital and hottest points of the engine. Antifreeze (antifreeze) constantly circulating through them takes up some of the heat in order to further transfer it to the radiator of the engine cooling system.

The device of the engine cooling radiator in terms of operation is in many ways similar to similar household devices. Coolant is poured into the reservoir located outside in the upper part of the radiator. Above and below there are two pipes, through one of which the antifreeze goes to the engine, and through the other it comes back to transfer excess heat to the radiator honeycomb. Being made of a material with good thermal conductivity (usually copper or aluminum), they are good at absorbing heat from the antifreeze coming from the engine, which is thus cooled. The coolant that has transferred the heat is re-sent through the tubes.

Deposits and various sediments can form on any element of the cooling system and radiator, therefore, flushing is usually carried out in a comprehensive manner. The type of possible plaque is strongly influenced by the type of cooling agent used. Many motorists still feed their radiators with water. Well, this is everyone's personal choice, but water, in the future, will certainly lead to the formation of scale. In addition, under a serious load, it will simply circulate, not really cooling anything. To avoid serious consequences, it is recommended to do a preventive flush every six months to a year. It is better to stick to the schedule than to get to repair the cooling radiator.

Certain Signs of Impending Flushing

As you approach the tipping point, your car will be all possible ways alert you to CO problems.

First of all, you will notice the following signs:

• The engine temperature will constantly overstep the normalized values. It is difficult not to notice it, tk. the bulbs of the temperature sensors will be constantly on;
• If you have a radiator icon on the dashboard, then it will also be on constantly. This sign is worth paying attention to first of all;
• Antifreeze in the tank will take on a dirty, unclear hue. This is due to the fact that when circulating, the cooler will bring not only heat, but also fragments of deposits that are already densely settled in CO;
• The response to a change in the position of the rheostat will become noticeably slower;
• In especially advanced cases, you will be able to notice the growths that can form on the radiator cap.

How is the engine flushed?

Before proceeding directly to the procedure, you need to determine the nature of the pollution. If there are simply certain suspicions without obvious signs, then it will be possible to do without removing the radiator, since we are talking here about prevention. Cleaning of radical contaminants that interfere with the normal operation of the system occurs with the removal of CO and thorough cleaning of problem areas.

Standard flushing up to medium soiling is easy. First, the spent antifreeze or antifreeze is drained. After that, the selected descaling agent is poured into the tank. As a rule, 20 - 30 minutes of engine idle operation is enough to flush and clean the CO cavities. Then the agent, along with scale and dirt, is drained, and distilled water is poured into the cavity. This is to remove residual dirt and cleaning fluid. After that, you can fill in fresh coolant.

If the situation is started, then there is a risk of getting to the replacement of individual fragments of the cooling system, or even the whole. In the presence of global deposits and obstruction, it will not work to rinse the cooling radiator without removing it - only removing the radiator with everything due and an attempt to roughly clean it will help. One of the peaks of damage to the system is the formation of a radiator leak, caused by the spread of corrosion. In this case, waiting for you or complete replacement, or soldering honeycomb of the engine cooling radiator.

CO flushing agents

Despite the good choice of specialized chemistry, many prefer very artisanal cleaning methods. However, in this case, they work well if you know the specifics of the application. In almost all methods, it will be possible to carry out cleaning without removing the radiator and other parts of the cooling system. In any case, it is necessary to dwell in more detail on all possible options.

Special means

1. LaurelRadiatorFlush... Despite the rarity of real positive feedback about the quality of the domestic brand LAVR, the chemistry for flushing the radiator turned out to be quite good. It fights well with various types of dirt, scale, etc. According to the instructions, the agent, previously diluted with warm water, should circulate through CO for about half an hour. To do this, just hold the running motor for idle... As with all other chemicals, the new cooler is filled only after the radiator has been rinsed with distilled water. By the way, most of good reviews about this remedy comes from the owners domestic cars... So, if you are all racking your brains about how and what on the brainchild of the VAZ plant - here's a good option for you.
2. HiGear... It is considered a very good profiler for CO purification. Although High Gear is made in America, its price is quite affordable for our brother. One can will cost you no more than 400 rubles. One of the main advantages of this chemistry is the record-breaking short treatment time for contamination. Just seven minutes. One can (325ml) is enough to treat a radiator with a capacity of up to 17 liters of coolant, which makes the product suitable for both passenger car and for cargo. According to the assurances of knowledgeable people, this chemistry sometimes copes where cheaper analogues have not yielded results. And it didn’t help someone at all. However, it depends more on the strength of the defeat of the cooling system. Car chemicals are effective, but they are not capable of working miracles.
3. LiquiMoly. Well what can I say, this time pedantic Germans disappointed me a little. Yes, the product works, but many complain about the foam that does not remove after processing. And this chemistry does not work well against corrosion. Better to choose a more serious remedy.

Home methods

1. Flushing the entire engine cooling system with citric acid... Yes, this is a very effective method. It will be very effective if water has been used as the engine coolant. acid compositions are most effective against rust. The recipe is simple - forty grams of pure citric acid per liter of water. For the method to work, you first need to warm up the engine (with pre-filled with acid), then turn it off and leave it overnight. Then drain / rinse. You can find recipes with a higher concentration, but with strong deposits, citric acid is ineffective in principle. You can, by the way, use Fanta, it also contains acid in sufficient concentration. Moreover, it is Fantou. Coca Cola and other "analogues" will not work. Cola can damage the radiator due to its composition.
2. This can also include acetic acid... Dissolve 0.5 vinegar (70%) in ten liters of water. Drive the filled solution over CO for half an hour with the engine running. Then drain. After a few repetitions, light dirt will be washed off.
3. Sodium hydroxide. Caustic soda, to be exact. The method is not bad, but you will need to clean the radiator after removing it. The solution is prepared at the rate of 80 - 100 g of powder per liter of water (concentration 10%). Without boiling, pour the hot solution into the engine cooling radiator and leave for 30 minutes. After draining, you need to rinse the cavities for a long time with hot water. It will be even better if you blow with hot air, but only against the direction of movement of the pump.

Do not rinse with Coca Cola and various household chemicals (including products for removing edible fats.). If Fairey is simply not effective against technical fats, then Calgons, Moles, etc. can fatally damage the aluminum radiator. And for copper, they are not very good options.