Toyota Nadia smoke oil caps replaced. When does the engine smoke, how to understand the rings or caps give the problem? Smel from the oil-chip
Good day to all
I have premace 99 year. I purchased in February - this is my first car :) So far I put a bunch of money into it, starting from all consumables / glands and pendants, ending with noise insulation and replacing all acoustics twist. Literally all this time regularly in the services machine used, because I did for myself and literally worked for her. At the very last moment I left the replacement of oil, because The owner who reported that the oil does not eat, and the planned (every 10t) replacement will be in 3 thousand. Departure during this time (I didn't go much, periodically for business) just less than a thousand kilometers, I drove to adjust the shedding slices of gear knobs, and at the same time, previously specified to me for replacement for 2 thousand. oil, because I was glanced to change it, even 8 liters acquired from the dealer to make no fakes, and rinse before, bay the second "set" followed for the summer. Changed with a full plum of old at my request. Judging by the residue in the canister - poured 3.5 with the replacement of the filter, which is the norm.
When I took the car by handing up in boxing, I noticed that I had a white smoke of the exhaust. Having stuck nearby, it came out to watch the exhaust. He smokes already slightly, then everything seemed to do not at all. Having calmed down, took her paint to small finishes (scratches, kings).
Used only after 3 days. Departing with the standing back, drew attention to the smoke, again this smoke! Starting finally understand what something is wrong here, I am watching the exhaust again. On the street warm, about +20 in the sun, noticeably warmer than that day when he took from the service. Meanwhile, the smoke again began to sink as the engine was heating. He spent his finger - on the end of the pipe condensate. It seems everything is in order. Smoking barely can be seen.
I decided to go home around the city, bypass. Within the route, it turned off the music periodically, listened to the engine. Turns - as usual. Fluid temperature - in the middle of the scale. Indication of oil pressure and other concerning the engine on the tidy - do not burn. Sounds are fine. Everything seems to be OK.
arrived, put. Today I began to google, ask questions to motorists with experience. There were assumptions about breakdown gBC pads, etching coolant in the cylinder. The serviceman who serves the car (at the time of the car, he was absent in the box), suggested on the phone that it can be the enhanced valve seals. The only question is that this smoke was not before.
And finally, almost a disconnection - in the evening, accumulating the theoretical course of a young fighter, I come to my mass, checking the level of the coolant, which in a centimeter tank 2, and under the radiator cover - under the neck, which seems to be perfectly, convinced of the absence of blessed flops on the oil-coaling lid The neck of the engine and camshafts, I launch the heart of Masyani. Plant for a split second, followed by seven quiet impeccable work, which seemed to be the fog. And suddenly! - As if the bonfire threw fresh herbs - a thick white smoke, begins to pour and leisurely climb into the air. Dense smoke, obviously not condensate, and what to hell with condensate, when in the yard for 20 heat and in such conditions the activity of exhaust should already be indistinguishable. It was half a minute (no less), the density of smoke decreased several times, becoming a prominent eye of the exhaust. Aid to help the father at my request adds gas to idlingAnd the smoke curtain with a new force is spilled in the yard, hiding everything from the eyes. During Podagazovka, I tried to see bubbles in expansion tankwho would testify to etching the exhaust in the cooling system. NOTHING! The liquid may not have time to warm up, all 5 minutes of operation of the engine did not even move any, nor bubble, nor jerking, nor oil spots on the surface of the liquid. Nothing: (Turning off the engine and opening the radiator's lid, also did not see the oil there. Under the effortless neck, everything is also in normal mode, there is no emulsion on the neck, the oil level is closer to the maximum. Only the yard 100x50 meters is half hidden in smoke. And he has a little smell Gives gasoline, not very reminding butter, and the color is not a gray and not black, but white. And the traces on a white sheet of paper applied to the exhaust, I did not wait.
In general, I confused finally.And finally, the introductory (sorry that at the end of the topic):
dvig - FP-DE 1.8 Injector Gasoline, Mileage 178T
oil to replacement 5W-40 Castrol Synthetic http://castrol.com.ru/castrol/magnatec_sae40c.php
oil after replacement 10W-40 liqui Moly. semi-synthetic http://catalogue.liquimoly.ru/index....talogue_id\u003d424.
(the seller argued that he did not chat, he does not need it). According to indirect signs, I then believed him, now I do not know.
Antifreeze - blue. Just blue :) The only thing that did not have time to change is.
Oil chose by studying forums, since the engine has already walked, the semi-synthetic should be shown to it. Route despite the statement of the seller that the oil does not eat. So calmer. The number of low-temperature density is due to the coming in our Krasnodar in the summer (temperatures from 30 to 43 in the shade), I think what you need. Liquimoli took through a friend, from the supplier to make no fakes.
I repent, did not measure the level of the coolant after the purchase, how did I know. Maybe antifreeze and leaving - but as I wrote above, I did not see this in indirect signs. Option unscrew drain plug Carter and look for the presence of a heavy water fraction at the bottom of the oil? Or again unscrew the candles replaced recently, and try to find "cleaner" from them, which in the idea could "fit" the coolant. Would you have time? Moreover, replacing old candles, noticed that almost everything is normal with them. "Almost" - because the end is slightly curd, but the terminals of the arresters are clean and reddish, I am the edges of the thread - well, the mixture was re-protected, changed because of this fuel filters (both) in the tank, and the air filter. The nozzles wanted to clean the ultrasound at the week or in the service. So all these metamorphoses with the engine began to occur after replacing the oil in the service. Is there really an earliest owner in the old oil an anti-love additive? But damn it, smoke now takes such that it is possible to take it only by a young tree if you drive him into the exhaust.
Help, good people. I feel sorry for the machine, it was scary to say how many in it: (ask questions, maybe something I did not take into account in my story. I will try to answer. Maybe some familiar came across. I am very looking forward to advice. Of course, I will decide whether this problem.
Among possible causes Increased oil consumption can be noted, in the order of the complexity of elimination:
- oil flows through looseness in gaskets, glands, as well as cracks in the engine crankcase, cylinder block, oil pressure sensor, etc.
- wear masonry Caps
- cylindro-piston wear
- eshar oil due to his deputy quality
The first group of reasons is determined by visual viewing. Eliminate similar causes, with the exception of laying the head of the block and cracks in the cylinder block, is simple enough. One should only replace faulty details (Selns, gaskets). The exception is here - the blocking of the head of the block and the block of cylinders. To replace them, it is necessary to remove the distributional shaft (with all the ensuing consequences), and then the head itself; And then and completely disassemble the engine. Of course, the experimental mechanics, such an operation will not be difficult, but here is an ordinary car enthusiast ...
The second reason is the wear of low-pressure caps. We will talk about signs of the need for their replacement just below. This operation also implies, as a rule, removal distribution Vala. (one or more - depending on the car model). However, there are cars on which it is not necessary to do. However, these are quite rare cases.
Finally, wear of the cylinder-piston group. To eliminate it, it is necessary, as they say, engine overhaul. As a rule, it is timed to other repair operations, namely: replacement of liners crankshaft, repair (grinding) of the crankshaft neck, replacement of valves, replace / swelling valve sleeves, not to mention the replacement of worn (by the time) of valve rockers, valve springs.
Here we consider signs that indicate symptoms similar to wear masonry Caps. Here are their list (possibly incomplete):
Fault alarm
Smoky exhaust when passply
Increased fuel consumption
Falling power and pickup, failures in engine work,
Oil is rapidly polluted
Calil ignition
Note that it is not necessary that all signs appear simultaneously.
Smoke from the oil-colored neck *
Which can sometimes see, for example, if on the running engine open the oil-tapping neck. On good (ie, a good) engine from there will simply leave the air (as an option - with an admixture of oil fog, which is not a malfunction). If the engine consumes a lot of oil and has a strong smoke from the neck - therefore, the piston group is worn out. If the engine oil consumes, and the neck is clean, then the case may be (but optionally) in the oil-circulation caps.
* So this sign, rather, does not indicate the wear of the oil-challenge caps.
The threaded piece of candles is covered with oil
This is also one of the symptoms of the need to replace the oil-challenge caps. However, not always. Those. It happens that the caps already require replacement, but the threaded part of the candles is still dry. For oils in the combustion chamber hits not too much, it has time to burn.
Why is the threaded piece of candles be covered with oil under conditions when it enters the combustion chamber? It would seem, because in the carving between the spark plugs and the head of the block if there are gaps, then they are minimal and not exceed 0.2 mm?
Consider the engine operation process. The fact is that at the moment of inlet of the portion of the combustible mixture, the oil falls into the cylinder, while in the cylinder (as well as in the threaded gaps of the candles) there is a vacuum. The mixture is then compressed. Naturally, it (including oil contained in it with gasoline) begins to penetrate into all places where it is possible, including threaded gaps of candles. Then the mixture is mounted, burns. It burns almost everywhere, except, just, threaded gaps. For they are very small (in the area of \u200b\u200b0.1 ... 0.3 mm), in such small grankens, as a rule, cannot spread. As a result - oil accumulates in threaded gaps. Gasoline evaporates, for the candles are heated.
Candles are covered with black nagar. Elevated exhaust pipe
Nagar may (but optional) oily. As a rule, with the wear of the oil-challenge cap, it is a terry. Although, too a rich mix Also can give terry black nagar. Sine-SIZY, sometimes black smoke from the muffler testifies to the wear of the cylindrophone group, as well as the excessively rich mixture.
However, similar symptoms are observed with the wear of the oil-challenge caps (blue exhaust during passage), the malfunction of the ignition system (the moment of ignition is incorrect, "punched" high voltage wires, the lid of the traver, the runner, etc., and may also fail ... alarm), violation of the adjustments of the fuel supply system (for example, carburetor, injectors, etc.).
Those. Black smile from the silencer and black candles covered with black nagar is not always evidence of an overly rich mixture. Both of these features are also manifested both with the wear of the oil-circulation caps and in the violation of the ignition system. Why?
Because when the ignition system malfunction is the spark, the candlelight will be defective, although it can be quite acceptable. Accordingly, the combustion of the oil-fuel mixture will also be defective. In particular, the oil and gasoline contained in the mixture will burn worse (than with a good spark), i.e. Black Nagar will form, creating the visibility of an excessive re-entered mixture. For example, this was what was observed in the case when she was broken.
Fault alarm
It can also be the cause of nagar formation on the ignition candle, if there are chains related to ignition through it. A common case - when some connectors in the alarm have bad contacts (when they are old and / or made from Chinese metal). In this case, the ignition will be different, then "not very", then (share of a second) is absent at all. And so - constantly.
The case was observed when the car periodically glued on the go after 10 ... 20 minutes drive. And after - flatly refused to start. However, after an incident, 10 ... 15 minute parking - started, as if nothing had happened as much as it was necessary.
Note: exactly the same behavior of the car in another case was the consequence of the malfunction of the oil-challenge caps.
In addition, the car often (but not always) blood when attempting to move to the mountain. Recommendations of servicemen repair the system, naturally, did not lead to anything. They led only to the cost of money and time to think. However, the problem has completely taken out after the restoration of electrical contacts in two signaling connectors (by removing and easily piercing connectors).
Why did the car started after 10 ... 15 minute parking? Because during this time alarm cooling a bit, the contact details of its connectors were slightly changed in size (under the action of thermal narrowing), slightly shifted relative to each other (i.e., the "Dad" connector slightly displaced relative to the "Mom" connector "), There was no scratching, the slipping of their contacting surfaces relative to each other and the contact for some time was restored again.
And why the engine is sometimes gluch when moving the car in the mountain? Because in the alarm unit under dashboardWhen the orientation of the machine change relative to the vertical, a slightly moved to another position of the alarm unit, as a result, the electrical contacts were sometimes disturbed. And when the car moved to the horizontal surface - the contacts were restored.
Smoky exhaust when passply
The symptoms of the formation of a smoke exhaust during the passage are similar - both in the event of a malfunction of the oil-challenge caps and the malfunction of the cylinder-piston group. The difference is that if the caps are faulty, then multiple penitzes (4 ... 7 times) lead, as a rule, to (temporary) disappearance of the smoke exhaust. Those. Permanent smoking, as a rule, no. Whereas when the cylinders faults and the smoke exhaust do not disappear after several penitz.
The reason is that in the first case the oil, which accumulated near the articulation of the edge of the oil-challenge cap and the valve rod, as a result abrupt touch On the gas pedal, temporarily sucks through the gap between the valve rod and the guide sleeve, in the cylinder, which carries out to several smoky exhausts during passages. When all the oil available is located, the smoky exhaust (until the oil is not accumulated again) will not be formed. Whereas in the latter case, the oil falls into the cylinder, regardless of whether the gas pedal has been dramatically or not; No matter how many times and with what frequency it was pressed.
When working at idle when the cylinder wear and / or pistons are dark and the smoke will be dense and nasy (like older soviet motorcycles, Chainsaw of the type "Friendship"), whereas with the wear of the oil-challenge caps it will (at first), as it were, "sly". If you look at the exhaust pipe with the engine running, it is not always possible to notice. But look along exhaust pipeIf you look at the back of the car, sometimes (but not always) makes it possible to see such a husky smack.
Also, if when the engine is heated, the smoke from the silencer goes white, then this is also a sign of wear of precursor caps, but not a cylinder-piston group. By the way, another reason for the appearance of white smoke on a warm engine is to enter the coolant into the engine cylinders due to the malfunction of the block head laying.
Note that the appearance of white smoke disappearing after warming up Impact engineThe opposite is a completely normal symptom. Indeed, as a result of burning fuel-air mixture, water is formed, in particular, water. A couple of which become visible until the engine and silencer will warm up. For the same reason, water drops can even fly out of the muffler. It often happens that water is dripping a little from the end of the muffler.
When the silencer warms, the water vapors on its walls will not be condensed - and the white couple will disappear. Water drip will stop.
Too rich combustible mixture will also give an exhaust of increased smoke, including when Peregazovka. Which, it seems, should not disappear after repeated penitz.
However, in fact, not everything is so simple. There was a case when due to too rich fuel mixes The engine of the car with great difficulty started "on the hot" (while "on the cold" started with half a turn). After multiple penitz, the exhaust of increased smoke (blackish) disappeared. However, the problem was - precisely in an excessive enriched fuel and air mixture.
Increased fuel consumption
The fact is that the oil falling into cylinders when engine operation makes it difficult to burn the fuel and air mixture. Accordingly, to remove the required power from the engine, it will be necessary to make a larger amount of the mixture than in the absence of oil in the mixture.
By the way, not only the oiling cap, but also almost all other engine malfunctions also lead to elevated fuel consumption, whether it is the wear of the cylinder-piston group, a malfunction of the ignition system or alarm, the non-optimal composition of the combustible mixture.
Falling power and pickup, failures in the engine
It manifests itself in a reduced dynamics when setting the speed, overtaking. And may also be observed "failures" when pressed on the gas pedal. Those. You click on the gas, and the car is sometimes, instead of pulling forward, as if it slows down, the engine will boil. Let's let go of the gas pedal or press it slowly - the engine works fine. In such cases, it is usually recommended to adjust or repair the fuel supply system. More advanced recommend also to pay attention to the ignition system.
Often it is true, but not always. Sometimes - with a sharp increase in the vacuum during the intake of the fuel and air mixture (which is the result of a sharp pressing of the gas pedal) this vacuum is transmitted through the valve guide sleeves, to the oil-sensitive caps. If they are worn, then the oil portion is suited, which enters the cylinder, pouring the spark plug, i.e. (At first - temporarily, and then - constantly) turning it off from work. This explains the "failure" in the engine. If the car is equipped with a catalytic neutralizer, he "for some reason" will soon fail.
Oil is rapidly polluted
Yes, this is also one of the symptoms of wear of the oil-challenge caps, not everyone known. Why oil Polls, acquired dark, then - black? The main reasons here are two, as a rule:
- wear engine parts and getting into oil products of their wear
- nagar formation caused by the combustion of oil contained in the fuel and air mixture and the subsequent washing
Well, and completely banal causes, for example, a violation of work (or absence) air filterAs a result, the dust from the air falls into the cylinders, which causes oil pollution or simply the poor-quality oil, which is quickly destroyed when operating the engine, we will not consider here.
The first, in principle, is well known. But, at the same time, metal particles should be located on the magnetic stopper of the oil drain. And if there are few them or not at all?
Then, obviously, black particles causing a darkening of oil, it is nothing more than coke, washed from the walls of cylinders. After all, in most modern motor oils It contains fairly effective detergent additives that help wash off the nagar. If it were not for them, then as a result, the piston rings simply would be blocked. Fast. Well, their presence in oil saves, thereby, the engine. True, the whole blow at the same time takes on the oil that is rapidly polluted.
Since Nagar is formed gradually, its particles have a very small size, they, being washed from the walls of the cylinder, freely pass through oil filter And for this reason, remain in oil, causing the need for its accelerated replacement.
However, there may also be a place too rich mixture. Which also gives a black nagar on the ignition candlelight, as well as on the surface of the cylinder. Accordingly, after this tag will be washed with oil, it will fall into the engine crankcase.
Calil ignition
It is expressed, in particular, the engine continues to work for several seconds, or even more, even after the key from the ignition lock. Yes, and it can also be a symptom of oil entering the combustion chamber, including, as a result of the malfunction of the oil-challenge caps. Why?
Because modern gasoline cars, perhaps, without exception (both carburetor and injection) are equipped with a fuel supply system when the ignition is turned off. For example, if we talk about a carburetor car, then in carburetors, as a rule, there is solenoid valve idling, which overlaps the receipt of the working mixture when the ignition is turned off.
By the way, for references, the modern gasoline car is at all necessary to be injector. For example, many military cars are, as before, carburetor. The reason is likely to be clear to you: Military cars require, including increased reliability and high maintainability even in the "clean field". It is clear that you can read and adjust the carburetor a knowledgeable person will be able to quickly and practically in any conditions, whereas for adjustment injector engines No way do without a computer. Well, and cleaning nozzles in the "field" is definitely impossible without special equipment. And, in fact, will not be a military to carry a diagnostic computer and other devices only to use the injector when it is quite possible to dofully have proven your reliability and quick maintainability of the carburetor. Well, which slightly increases fuel consumption, slightly increases the toxicity of the exhaust gases. And, no more.
Then, the more electronic parts in the car, the higher the likelihood of their failure, for example, when exposed to an electromagnetic pulse.
So, even if the engine is disconnected at idle, the engine continues to work, it became, in its cylinders there is something that can burn. In this case, it is nothing but oil. Located there in such a concentration at which the engine is still capable (but not always) to work. It is clear that when the caps are even more extended, oils in the combustion chamber will fall even more, then the caliling ignition may disappear. But, at the same time, the car will be difficult to start, will increased flow Oils, etc.
The car is hard to start "on the hot"
If it is difficult to start "on the cold", then the reason is often not at all in the oil-challenge caps. There, most likely, more obvious reasons, such as wear of the cylinder-piston group, fuel failure, ignition malfunction, including, as already mentioned, signaling. And also - a battery malfunction, starter.
But if "on the cold" engine starts with the floor of the turnover, but on a hot, no matter how paradoxically, you have to unwind it with a starter seconds of 5 ... 10 and even more (or even the car engine stalls, as soon as it warm himself), it may well Be the wear of the oil-challenge caps.
The fact is that in the cold engine oil too, naturally, cold. And having a greater viscosity, and therefore, with reluctance, pecking into the gap between the valve rod and the working edge of the oil surcharge. When oil warms up, its viscosity decreases (sometimes several orders), and it is much easier for him to go to this gap.
However, the violation of the composition of the combustible mixture, the ignition malfunction, the alarms are also not excluded, of course.
Exhaust gas has a completely disgusting, suffocating smell
It is clear that the smell of exhaust gas can not be called natural, pleasant and safe.
However, sniffing, say, to cars riding in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), I concluded that there is much more with the exhaust gases, which is better than in Russia. It seems, it goes a solid flow of machines, and the exhaust smell is insignificant ... sometimes, even leaning close to the exhaust pipe, somehow you do not catch the wrong smell that stems from russian cars. One of the reasons for this, of course, more quality gasoline. Which, by the way, was also worth much cheaper than in Russia, at least before the moment, the ruble exchange rate towards the dollar and many other currencies was sharply omitted.
This is yes, because, after all, the exhaust gas, what to wait for him. However, when the combustible mixture is poor-quality, incorrect (in particular, as a result of a large amount of oil in it), then, naturally, the smell of exhaust becomes much more disgusting. In such cases, it is worth a little to stand up near the exhaust pipe when the engine is idling at idle - and I want to go somewhere from this smell. Neutralizer, repeat, while very quickly fails.
Therefore, if the exhaust car has become a particularly unpleasant who suffer, not as before, it is worth paying close attention to the details of the engine through which the excess amount of oil can flow into the combustion chamber. In particular, it is the oil-challenge caps.
However, the cause of such a smell may be a very rich combustible mixture.
Worn guides of valve sleeves, valve rods
Of course, by itself the wear of their working surfaces does not speak about wear of the oil-challenge caps. He simply accelerates him, and it is essential. And also makes the useless replacement of caps on new ones.
The fact is that if the holes in the guide sleeves and / or the rods of the valves are strongly worn, in the process of engine operation, even a new high-quality oil clipping cap will be unable to fully delay the oil. Which will come to the combustion chamber, as well as with worn caps.
So if after replacing the oil-challenge caps, there were those symptoms of their wear, then you should think about the repair (replacement) of the valves and their guide sleeves. And that's about overhaul (replacement) of the engine, for, as a rule, to such a time and its other parts also partly produce their resource. It makes no sense to change only bushings and valves, if another thousand 20 ... 30 is to replace the chain, stars (pulleys), rockers, pistons, rings, as well as boring cylinders, grinding the necks of the crankshaft.
How to measure the backlash in the valve guide bushings? If rude and approximately, then the backlash can be considered great if, when swinging the rod valve from side to side, it is much higher than it was on a new (renovated) engine. If it is much higher than a typical sensible backlash for a specific engine model. Well, for more accurate measurement, of course, it is necessary to remove the block head, get the valve, etc.
It is often necessary to notice that increased smoking appears from the exhaust pipe of the car. Sometimes situations reach the fact that the car is literally enveloped by clubs of thick smoke. It is quite obvious that every motorist emerge an excessive smoke indicates the emergence of certain problems with.
Immediately note that not always, but often increased smoke indicates serious. At the same time experienced drivers It's not difficult to determine the reason for the color and composition of the exhaust. However, for beginners, it is not always easy to understand why the engine smokes, as well as determine the cause and reveal, rings or caps. Let's deal with.
Read in this article
Appeared white or black smoke from the exhaust pipe
Let's start with the basic types of smoking for a better understanding of the problem. So, the white smoke from the exhaust pipe is quite a normal phenomenon for the warm engine warming modes. Moreover, it is mistaken to believe that it is smoke. In fact, it is a couple. Water in a vapor state is a natural product of the motor.
In unleashed exhaust system This pairs are partially condensed and becomes visible, and water usually appears on the cutting pipe of the exhaust pipe. As the engine is heated and condensation decreases.
The colder environmentMoreover, steam turns out. At temperatures below 10 ° C, steam is formed and on a well-heated engine, and when frost in minus 20 - 25 degrees, it takes a thick white color with a siza tint. On the color and saturation of the pair also affect the humidity of the air. What she is more, the pairs are thick.
Note that if the pairs are visible in the warm season, it is quite possible, this is due to. Its shade depends on the composition of the coolant, weather, illumination, as well as on the amount of coolant in the combustion chamber. Sometimes he can acquire a gray shade, reminding "oil" smoke. But, unlike butter smoke, which leaves a bluish fog in the air, steam quickly dissipates.
Inexperienced motorist is quite difficult appearance Determine what is a source of smoke. In this case, you can use the verified method of verification. To do this, it is necessary to close the bottom of the exhaust pipe with a sheet of white paper briefly on a well-haired engine, while the condensed pairs in the form of water droplets when the paper gets will gradually evaporate and will not leave obvious fat traces.
If this simple test confirmed that from exhaust system It is steam, not an oil smoke, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate the malfunction that promotes the penetration of the coolant into the cylinders.
Most often, the liquid can fall into cylinders through due to insufficient broach (in winter it is often observed to leak the coolant at the junction of the block and heads), the progress and less often as a result of education. Opening the radiator cork or, easy to reveal the smell exhaust gases And the oil film on the surface of the coolant.
All problems associated with the white smoke from the exhaust pipe require the elimination of not only direct causes, but also a mandatory testing of systems capable of affecting their appearance:, switching sensor, coupling or fan itself, radiator state, its plugs, hoses, or connections. If the white smoke and the accompanying defects are noticed, then the car cannot be operated, since defects will quickly progress.
- We go further. The black smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates the re-enrichment of the fuel and air mixture or the deterioration of the combustion conditions of the fuel. Consequently, we are talking about faults. Such smoke is usually clearly visible on a light background and is particles of soot - the products of incomplete combustion of fuel.
Black smoke is accompanied by a large fuel consumption, often poor launch, unstable engine operation, high toxicity of exhaust gases, and often loss of power due to the non-optimal composition of the fuel and air mixture.
It is important to understand that the observation of symptoms and the rapidly established problem will allow in the future to reduce the cost of repair and avoid serious and fast progressive failures.
Read also
Why root piston rings. Basic signs for self-essential malfunction, diagnostics. Outboard piston rings do it yourself.
Insufficient closing of valves leads to the appearance of lacquer sediments in the cylinder head and on the piston group.
Criteria pointing to wear salon:
- regular appearance of Nagar on the ignition candlelight;
- overestimated motor oil;
- lack of stable speed at idling;
- with a sharp increase in revolutions - abundant separation of smoke of the sizogue color.
Passage maintenance includes regular replacement of oil, air, oil and fuel filters. Valve glands are designed to operate a car up to 100,000 km. In fact, it is necessary to replace the replacement earlier than the specified resource.
The device of oilmaging caps (valve seals)
The oil seal has a cylinder form with a truncated cone. For dense contact with the surface of the guide valve, a polymer ring with a spring-expendler is provided. The plastic (or rubber) ring removes the excess oil when the valve rod moves, and the spring allows you to firmly fixed on the rod.
In the design of the gland for a long time The rubber ring was used. Options from rubber and fluoroplast have recently appeared. This is due to the fact that the rubber is faster all the way and loses its properties. The manufacture of the ring using modern polymers prolongs the service life of the gland.
Purpose of oil-changing caps
Long-term uninterrupted operation of the engine is provided high quality lubricant Drinking details. The oil distribution mechanism provides oil supply in a small amount. Switchgears in the head of the cylinders and the piston group - need constant lubrication. The shaft rotates and the cloud of oil is formed around it. Regulation of the amount of lubrication occurs with oil caps.
Nagar on the surface of the valve leads to incomplete closure and the appearance of the gap. In the combustion chamber, a combustible mixture is ignited, and excess oils are settled in the form of lacquer sediments. When lowering the valve down, the stem delicate prevents the excess oil inlet. Protects the piston group from the plaque arising from the combustion of oil and the fuel mixture. Oil-oil caps are related to consumables, as they need a periodic replacement.
Location of oilseed caps in the engine
On the cylinder block installed a head with camshafts and valves. The valve rod moves through the guide sleeve. The heat gap between the leg and the sleeve is closed with caps. The gland is located so that the oil from the head does not fall into the combustion chamber. Shays distributional shafts Get oil under pressure, and the rest of the nodes - at the expense of splashing. After removing the head of the engine block and switchgear, you can see the location of the glands in the valve seats.
Signs of wear of oilseed caps
You can learn about the need for replacement without monitoring the engine. There are engineering caps following wear signs:
- exceeded oil consumption;
- bluish smoke;
- nagar on ignition candles.
When depreciation of the oil, oil consumption increases. This occurs when the piston group is "encrypting", but there is a visual difference. Oil drills are noticeable on the Sapunka pipe. Size smoke exhaust - a sign that the oil gets into the combustion chamber. The "Trojection" of the engine and the net on the ignition candles are substantiated by the oil flow through the stock gland. The car requires the diagnosis and replacement of the glands.
The service life of oils does not depend on the price and manufacturer. For budget and premium, the auto resource is designed for mileage up to 100,000 km.
Procedure for replacing oil-leaf caps
- Disconnecting the air filter, removal of the lid and air ducts. Pipes and technical openings are closed with plugs. Candles and cylinder head bolts are unscrewed.
- The piston in the first cylinder is installed in the upper dead point. Removing the lock washer and stars. The lock nuts of the valves are popped, and the regulators are unscrewed until it stops.
- Sugari and springs are removed. The seals are removed. The bushings are lubricated with oil, wear on the rod and are installed with a hammer and rim.
- Collect nodes and details in the reverse order. After, the same algorithm change the remaining caps in the order of cylinders 4 - 2 - 3.
The maintenance of each cylinder needs to turn the crankshaft by 180 degrees.
An independent replacement will require a special tool. The main specific adaptation is the "dismounting" of the valves. It will be needed to replace the valve seal. Devices and materials:
- sets of end and precipitant keys;
- extension with heads;
- rod and hammer;
- collet clamp;
- pressing frame;
- tweezers;
- gasket under the head;
- a set of new caps;
- sealant.
When carrying out work, it is possible to replace the gaskets under the block and the head of the cylinders. New seals are selected under specific model Engine.
The procedure for replacing oilseed caps
Consider how the oil caps are replaced by 8 valve Engine Without removing the head:
- Remove the fuel pump and air filter.
- Turn off the battery power and dismantle the ignition distributor.
- We unscrew the upper cover of the block, disconnect the toothed pulley and mass.
- Uniformly unscrewing and removing the fastening nuts on the camshaft and bearings.
- We dismantle the shafts and glands.
- Rotate the crankshaft, raise the piston in the VMT on the serviced cylinder.
- Soft rod from tin We insert under the valve through the candle hole.
- We remove the springs with a special device and remove the plates. We carry out the replacement of the seals by pressing the old from the bushings and installing new ones.
- We take the assembly in the reverse order. Go to a consistent similar replacement on the remaining cylinders.
Before installing in rim, the caps are lubricated with oil. They will be pressed into a plate carefully, without sharp strong blows.
Under bolt caps, gaskets and seals are installed. Small elements sort to avoid their loss.
After replacing all the valves of the valves, collect the head, putting on the sealant and a new gasket. Nuts Tighten with a certain moment of effort, according to the manual for the operation of this engine.
For different engines Sets of valve seals differ in design. Installation is made according to technical recommendations Under the concrete car model. When carrying out work, adhere to accuracy:
- coincidence of the diameters of the sleeve belt and the valve rod;
- length seating guide sleeve and cap;
- installations for oil with reliable fixation (without the slightest backlats);
- selecting a set of caps for a specific engine model.
The high class of accuracy of the manufacture of parts allows you to increase the density of the connection and the complete matching of the sizes.
There are additives for the restoration of the seals. Their principle of operation lies in the softening of the convexed rubber of the sealing ring. Manufacturers are characterized by the quality of additives. There is a different effect on the rubber: without an effect or excessive softening, which leads to an overpowering of oil.
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