How many kilograms tighten the head 406 engine. Repeated broaching of the GBC
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15. Disconnect the plugging pads 1 from the nozzles.
Take over the holders of 2 wiring harness and remove the harness from the holders.
Divide the wiring harness away from the engine.
Then disconnect the fuel tube from the exhaust manifold, disconnect the hollow hose throttle valve, Remove the drilling pipe of the radiator, remove the generator.
1. Remove distributional shafts.
2. Loosen the tightening of the clamps 1 and remove the hoses 2 and 3 from the fittings of the throttle housing.
3. Remove the thermostat with the case.
4. Remove the spark plugs.
5. Unscrew the bolts 1 of the block head. Remove bolts 1 and washers.
6. Remove the cylinder head and block head block.
You can not score between the head of the block and the screwdriver cylinder block or some other tool, as you can damage the surface of the block head adjacent to the cylinder block.
Installation
Install the block head in order reverse removal.
The order of tightening bolts of the block of the block head is shown in the figure.
Block fastening bolts Tighten into two stages:
1st stage - 40-60 nm (4.0-6.0 kgf · m);
2nd stage - 130-145 nm (13.0-14.5 kgf · m).
Tightening the cylinder head bolts - an important part repair workwhich cannot be neglected. The question is worth paying attention, especially if we are talking about the car GAZ 53. We propose to find out what moment tightening GBC. Gas 53 and what is the order of tensioning screws during repair.
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When do you need to make a tight?
Not every motorist is aware of the importance of this nuance. And not all drivers understand that you need to follow the order of tightening pins. This moment is important, and it is not recommended to neglect them. If you are the owner of GAZ 53 and incorrectly tightened the cylinder head screws, it may cause other faults. Accordingly, the repair of the engine will entail many cash costs.
Cargo car GAZ 53
Ten years ago, the procedure in the vehicle was carried out by specialists at the car. The legislation was amended, according to which this procedure was canceled. Now tighten the screws - the headache of machine owners. In what cases to perform it?
- If noted that from under the GBC proceeds consumables, namely motor oil. In some cases, this can be the consequence of mechanical damage to the head laying. Or the gasket could simply wear out. But sometimes oil leakage occurs as a result of the weakening of the screws of the GBC.
- If the engine of its gas 53 was disassembered. When assembling and installing the cylinder head, the moment and the order of screw tightening must be observed anyway. If not to do this, then with a long operation of the CFC, its deformation may occur.
If you saw that the bolts can be tightened, then you need to do it. Cylinder head screws can relax arbitrarily during operation vehicle. Therefore, the diagnosis of tension is necessary once every 3,000 mileage kilometers.
Process and order
Our resource advises novice motorists to think before carrying out the tension of the cylinder poles with their own hands. In practice, novice car enthusiasts, not having experience, proceed to the implementation of the procedure without understanding how sad it can turn into. Of course, in case of incorrect actions. Consider this procedure for the car GAZ 53. Remember that each separate engine has its own nuances in the work.
Required tools
If the cylinder head has already been installed in place, then the whole set of tools will not need. For tightening it is necessary to prepare one tool - a dynamometric key. It is needed to perform work, since it is possible to correctly determine the moment only with it. At home, such a tool has few people, since it has a certain specificity of work. You can try to ask him from masters for a hundred, but not free. If you decide to purchase such a key for yourself, keep in mind that its value is at least 1,200 rubles or 350 hryvnia.
Another advice. Sometimes little understanding "auto experts" advise not to use a torque wrench, but to use the usual, wrench. They motivate it by the fact that the screws need to be tightened to the maximum, and the purchase of a dynamometer tool is a useless waste of money. We can say that they do not realize the seriousness of the situation. Therefore, if you want the repair process to go correctly, dynamometric key.
Phased instruction
We ate the owner of GAZ 53, we recommend using the service manual to the car. Perhaps the engine of your GAZ 53 has certain nuances in the work or its own specifics. The instruction below is relevant for all gases 53. If you are ready to perform these works, you can start. If they changed the sealing gasket or did the repair of the motor, then collect it and install a new seal.
- Inspect the cylinder head bolts. They must be in perfect condition. If mechanical damage or traces of deformation are seen on the screws, you need to replace them. The reuse of bolts is not recommended, but if their condition is perfect or close to it, the operation of the pins is allowed. Pay attention to the thread - it must be clean. Nests for pins - too. If you notice the dirt or metal chips on the elements, they need to be cleaned with a metal brush.
- Pins before tightening should be lubricated for this motor suitable liquid.
- Insert the screws into the holes and tighten them according to the order in the diagram. Using a dynamometer key, all pins need to be tightened with a point of 7.3 - 7.8 kgm. Observe the order. If the room in the room where they repair, minus (below -5 degrees), then the tension of the CCC should be 7.3 kgm. If there are 20 degrees, then the time of the stretch must correspond to the lower limit.
After that, on the repair, the process of tensioning screws Cleans can be considered finished. Recall that during this repair, it is necessary to be attentive, non-compliance with the nuances will lead to a negative result. Excessively having threw the pins, you can trigger the appearance of microcracks on the engine housing. As you can guess, it will turn out to be repaired. It will be necessary to brew cracks or change the GBC itself.
Do not forget that the pins should be good quality. The absence of cracks, metal dust, deformation - a prerequisite condition that it is important to stick during such works. If you can't answer yourself for sure, whether everything can be done correctly, do not mind the stretch.
Video "Tightening pinches GBC"
The need to repair ZMZ-4061, -4063 engines occurs after a run of 200-250 thousand km, depending on the operating conditions. To this race, the gaps reach the values \u200b\u200bcausing the drop in power, a decrease in oil pressure in the oil line, a sharp increase in the oil consumption (over 0.25 l / 100 km), excessive engine smoke, increased flow Fuel, as well as elevated knocks.
The magnitude of the gaps in the pairing of the main parts due to wear should not exceed the values \u200b\u200bspecified for the ZMZ-4025, -4026 engines.
The engine performance can be restored either by replacing worn items with new standard sizes, or restoring worn parts and the use of new parts of the repair size associated with them.
For this purpose, the release of pistons, piston rings, connecting rod and indigenous bearings crankshaft, guide sleeves of inlet and exhaust valves and a number of other parts of the repair size.
Removing the engine from the car
To remove the engine, the car must be installed on the viewing ditch or the overpass with shared and portable lighting. Workplace It should be equipped with a talo or other lifting device with a carrying capacity of at least 300 kg.
- open the hood, unscrew the four bolts of fastening it to the hinges and remove the hood;
- drain the coolant from the engine cooling system, unscrew the cork on the radiator and opening the cranes on the cylinder block and the heater. With this plug expansion tank must be removed;
- dry the oil from the engine crankcase and the gearbox, unscrew the plug holes. After draining the oil plugs to put in place and tighten it tight;
- remove the battery.
Engine removal work in the following order:
- disconnect the connectors and terminals of wires from ignition coils and sensors: Oil pressure pointer, an alarm lamp of an oil pressure, a warning light of coolant overheating, coolant temperature pointer, engine temperature;
- disconnect the hoses from the radiator, the coolant pump and the thermostat cover and remove them;
- disconnect the "masses" wire;
- unscrew the fastening bolt of the left pillow to the bracket on the engine.
Works carried out on the left side of the car:
- disconnect the wires from the generator and starter;
- disconnect wire connectors from detonation sensors and crankshaft position (synchronization sensor);
- disconnect the air intake hose from air filter and air intake nozzle and remove the hose;
- disconnect the crankcase ventilation hoses from the valve cover nozzles, the air filter and the carburetor tube, remove them;
- remove the cover and the filter element of the air filter;
- bend the mustache of the lock washers and unscrew the nuts fastening the air filter housing, carefully remove the nuts and lock washers, eliminating them into the engine;
- remove the air filter body with flange and gaskets, close the carburetor with a clean napkin;
- disconnect the throttle and air damper drive from the carburetor;
- disconnect the throttle cable cable tip from the engine bracket;
- disconnect the fuel to fuel fuel fuel hose from the carburetor, the hoses to the electromagnetic valve of the coercive economizer system idle move;
- disconnect the two heater hose from the engine;
- disconnect the hoses of the vacuum amplifier drive brakes and the absolute pressure sensor from the inlet pipe;
- disconnect the supply hose from the fine fuel filter;
- unscrew the fastening bolt of the right pillow to the engine bracket.
Works carried out on the right side of the car:
Works conducted front of a car:
- tighten the outer rubber sealer gear to the handle of the gear lever;
- remove the rubber protective seal with the cap of the gear lever housing cap;
- unscrew the cap from the neck of the lever housing and remove the throat lever up;
- close a hole in the neck with a clean napkin.
Works carried out inside the body of the car:
Disassembly of the engine
The engine must be carefully cleaned before disassembly. Disassembly and engine assembly are recommended on a stand that allows you to install the engine in the positions that provide free access to all parts during disassembly and assembly.
Disassembly and assembling of engines It is necessary to produce the appropriate size tool (wrenches, puller, fixtures), the working surface of which should be in good condition.
With an individual repair method, details suitable for further work must be installed on their previous places. For this, details such as pistons, piston fingers, piston rings, rods, liners, valves, hydrotheraplers, etc., when removing them from the engine, it is necessary to label in any way that does not cause damage (kerification, inscription, attaching tags, etc.), or lay them on racks with numbered compartments, in order, The corresponding location on the engine.
With an impersonal method of repairing engines, it is necessary to remember that the connecting rods with connecting rods, the cover of the indigenous bearings with the cylinder block, the covers of the supports distributional shafts With the head of the cylinders are processed assembly, and therefore it is impossible to order them.
Crankshaft, flywheel and clutch at the plant are balanced separately, so they are interchangeable. The clutch crankcase is processed separately from the cylinder block and also interchange.
In the hydraulic equipment, the target of the body with the plunger is not allowed.
- remove the clutch shutdown fork;
- remove the gear from the engine;
- remove the fan;
- remove the clutch and starter card;
- install the engine on the bench for disassembly;
- weaken the coolant pulley mounting bolts;
- loosen the tension roller fastening bolt;
- weaken the belt tension by turning the tensioning roller moving bolt, remove the belt;
- remove the coolant pump pulley mounting bolts, remove the pulley, the pulley reflector;
- remove wires with tips with spark plugs, tweak candles;
- disconnect the high voltage wires from the ignition coil connectors, remove the wires assembly with tips;
- unscrew the cape nuts from the fittings of the inlet pipe and the exhaust manifold, remove the recirculation tube;
- remove the valve cover bolts, remove the valve lid assembly with the ignition coils, bolts, brackets and washers;
- remove the fuel line OT fuel pump to the fuel purification filter;
- remove the fuel pump;
- remove the front cover of the cylinder head;
- remove the upper and medium chain calm;
- remove the cover with the top hydrochlorine chain laying;
- remove the hydraulus;
- unscrew the sprocket mount bolt distribution Vala. inlet valves, relieve eccentric and asterisk;
- remove drive chain with stars of distribution shafts;
- remove the sprocket from the camshaft of the exhaust valves;
- unscrew the bolts of fastening of distribution shaft covers, remove the covers, flanges of stubborn;
- remove distribution shafts;
- remove the hydrothels with a suction or magnet, arrange them in order of the numbering of cylinders;
- loosen the screws of the hoses of the heating hoses of the intake path, remove the hoses from the fittings;
- weaken the string bolt of the upper generator bracket;
- unscrew the gas fastening bolt nut to the top bracket, remove the bolt, sleeve;
- remove the generator fastening bolt nut to the lower bracket, remove the generator;
- remove the hoses of the recycling system from the carburetor fittings, the thermal pumping switch, the recycling valve;
- loosen the screw of the fueling tube clamp on the carburetor fitting, remove the hose from the fitting;
- remove the carburator mount nuts, remove the washers, carburetor, gaskets, spacer;
- unscrew the nuts fastening the recycling valve, remove the washers, valve, gasket;
- unscrew the fuel filter fastening bolt, remove the filter assembly with fuel pipelines;
- remove the thermal pumping switch;
- remove the nuts fastening the inlet tube, remove the washers of the intake pipe, gasket;
- unscrew the nuts fastening the final collector, remove the washers, the exhaust manifold, gaskets;
- loosen the thermostat hose clamps;
- replete the fastening screws of the thermostat housing, remove the case, gasket;
- remove the oil pressure sensor fitting;
- unscrew the cylinder head fastening bolts, remove the bolts with washers;
- remove the head of the cylinder block;
- using the device (see Figure 4.51), disassemble the springs of the valves. So that the plate of the springs of the valve comes up with superstars, it is necessary after compressing the springs slightly hit the hammer handle on the plate of the device;
- remove valves, arrange them in order of the numbering of cylinders;
- the puller is removed from the guide bushings oil reflective caps. Removing the valves is recommended to produce when repairing the head of the cylinder block;
- turn over the engine with oil crankcase up;
- remove the clutch crankcase amplifier fastening bolts to the block, remove the washers, the amplifier;
- unscrew the bolts and nuts fastening the oil crankcase, remove the washers, oil crankcase, gasket;
- unscrew the bolt mounting the oil pump holder on the third lid of the indigenous bearing;
- unscrew the oil pump fastening bolts, remove the oil pump, gasket, hexagonal roller of the oil pump drive;
- unscrew the crankshaft bolt, remove the bolt, spring washer;
- using the device to remove the crankshaft pulley;
- remove the coolant pump fastening bolts to the circuit cover, remove the bolts with washers, the coolant pump, gasket;
- unscrew the tension roller mounting bolt, remove tension roller;
- remove the cover and gasket of the first stage hydrolythel, remove the hydraulic machine;
- unscrew the synchronization sensor fastening bolt, remove the sensor;
- unscrew the screws of the chain cover, remove the cover, the bracket of the lower generator;
- remove the chain of the second stage of the camshaft drive from the leading sprocket of the intermediate shaft;
- split the bolts of fastening of sprockets of the intermediate shaft, remove the stars, chain;
- unscrew the bolts of fastening the intermediate shaft flange, remove the bolts with washers, flange;
- unscrew the fastening bolts of the oil pump drive cover, remove the cover, gasket;
- unscrew the nut of the drive gear of the oil pump drive, remove the gear assembly with the nut;
- remove the intermediate shaft;
- press the key from the intermediate shaft;
- using the puller, remove the sleeve and an asterisk from the crankshaft;
- remove the fastening bolt of the chain tensioner of the first stage of the camshaft drive, remove the shoe;
- unscrew the fastening bolt of the tensioner tensioner of the second stage of the camshaft drive, remove the shoe;
- remove the Bolt Extension Bolt, remove the extension cord;
- replete the fastening bolts of the lower caller of the chain, remove the sedator;
- replete nuts fastening the covers of the first and fourth connecting rods, remove the covers of rods with liners, remove the liners from the beds of the rods;
- remove pistons with rods assembly from the first and fourth cylinders;
- install the crankshaft so that the second and third connecting balls are in the upper position, unscrew the nuts fastening the covers of the second and third rods, remove the connecting rods with liners, remove the liners from the beds of the rods;
- remove pistons with rods from the second and third cylinders;
- insert a slotted slotted disk into the slots;
- unscrew alternately, in several techniques, fastening bolts of the clutch pressure disk, remove the disk;
- remove the slave clutch disc with a slotted mandrel;
- to open the fastening bolts of the flywheel, remove the flywheel from the pint;
- replete the rear cap fastening bolts, remove the back cover assembly with the rubber cuff;
- unscrew the bolts of fixing the covers of the indigenous bearings, remove the bolts;
- remove the covers of the indigenous bearings by the puller, the hemispheres of the stubborn bearing of the crankshaft top;
- remove the crankshaft, the hemispheric of the kneading shaft bearing bottom;
- remove the indigenous liners from the beds of the cylinder block and from the covers of the indigenous bearings;
- install the covers of the indigenous bearings in the block according to the numbering;
- fasten the cover of the indigenous bearings with bolts;
- unscrew the fastening nut of the detonation sensor, remove the washer, the sensor;
- unscrew the oil filter;
- turn out from the cylinder block of a drain crane;
- remove skeeping inserts from rods;
- install connecting rods on fastening bolts, screw nuts;
- remove with pistons compression engineering rings using puller (see Figure 4.52);
- remove lock rings;
- push the piston fingers from the pistons with the help of the device and mandrel (see Figure 4.53).
Figure 4.51. Removing valve springs
Figure 4.52. Removing piston rings with piston
Figure 4.53. Reassessing the piston finger from the piston by the puller: 1 - piston; 2 - piston finger; 3 - mandrel; 4 - Remover Screw
Repair of parts, nodes, aggregates and engine systems
Cylinder block, pistons, connecting rods, intermediate shaft
The cylinder block with samples of the walls of cylinders, water shirt and crankcase or with cracks of the upper plane and ribs that support the indigenous bearings is subject to replacement.
As a result of wear, the cylinder block is acquired by the length of the incorrect cone, and around the circle - oval. The greatest wear is reaches in the upper part of the cylinders in the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper compression ring, when the piston is positioned in the NWT; The smallest is at the bottom, with the position of the piston in NMT.
When repairing cylinders, two repair sizes are provided: 1st and 2nd. Pistons and piston rings are released with the same repair dimensions.
All block cylinders should, as a rule, to be processed under the same repair size with deviations of MM, installed for the cylinders of the nominal size, except when it is required to "output" shallow scratches on the cylinder mirror (within the increase in the diameter of the cylinder by 0.10 mm) - in this case, only defective cylinders are fixed.
If repair is available limited quantity Pistons, it is recommended to calculate the deviations of the diameter for each cylinder (based on the actual size of the diameter of the piston skirt, designed to work in this cylinder with the provision of a gap 0.036-0.060 mm) and under these sizes there are cylinders.
The deviations of the shape of the cylinders should be located in the size of the dimension troupe to the diameter of the cylinder.
Figure 4.120. Intermediate shaft: 1 - bolt; 2 - lock plate; 3 - leading asterisk; 4 - driven asterisk; 5 - front sleeve shaft; 6 - intermediate shaft; 7 - the tube of the intermediate shaft; 8 - driven by the oil pump drive gear; 9 - nut; 10 - the leading gear of the oil pump drive; 11 - rear sleeve shaft; 12 - block of cylinders; 13 - an intermediate shaft flange; 14 - pin
The repair of the intermediate shaft spock sleeves is to replace them for repairs (increased thickness), followed by a boring under a nominal or repair size with a tolerance set for nominal size supports - depending on the degree of wear of the creek creek. Before repairing the supports, it is necessary to remove the pipe 7 (see Figure 4.120). When installing repair sleeves, it is necessary to ensure the coincidence of holes of oil channels. The boring of the intermediate shaft support is carried out in one installation to ensure the alignment.
The neck of the intermediate shaft is ground under the repair size with the tolerance installed for the necks of the nominal size, in the case of wear exceeding the maximum allowable.
Damage to the threaded holes in the form of care or breaking the thread of less than two threads are restored by the tumbled for a nominal size.
Threaded holes having wear or disruption of a thread of more than two threads are restored to cut the threads of increased size, formulate threaded screws, followed by cutting threads of nominal size or installation of threaded spiral inserts. The last method is most effective and less labor-intensive.
Controlled parameters during the repair of the cylinder block, pistons, connecting rods and intermediate shaft are shown in Table. 4.12.
Table 4.12. Controlled parameters when repairing a block of cylinders, pistons, connecting rods and intermediate shaft
Crankshaft
In the presence of cracks of any character, the crankshaft shall be replaced.
To remove wear products in the connecting shek and in the crankshaft oil channels, it is necessary to flash the corks of the neck, to flash (with a solution of caustic soda, heated to 80 ° C) and a metal enshift to clear the cavities and channels. After cleaning, they need to rinse with kerosene, blow and dry with compressed air, and then wrap the plugs with torque 38-42 nm (3.8-4.2 kgf · m).
In case of damage to the threads in the holes up to two threads, it is restored by a toll under the nominal size. If two or more thread is broken, then the repair is made as follows:
Threads in the holes for the fastening bolts of the flywheel - installation of threaded spiral inserts;
Threads in the hole under the ratchet - cutting the repair thread;
Threads in plug holes - cutting repair threads.
Rental and indigenous cervies that worn within the repair size are grinding under the nearest repair size (1st, 2nd or 3rd) with the tolerance installed for the nominal sizes (all necks are grinding under one repair size). The sharp edges of the heads of oil channels are dulled by a conical abrasive tool, and then the necks are polishing.
Controlled parameters when repairing the crankshaft is shown in Table. 4.13
Table 4.13. Controlled parameters when repairing the crankshaft
Cylinder head, valve mechanism and camshafts
In the presence of spoins, slot and cracks on the walls of the combustion chambers and the destruction of the jumpers between the slots of the valve saddle, the cylinder head must be replaced with a new one.
Repair of threaded holes is similar to the cylinder block specified for the threaded holes.
Figure 4.133. Removing valve springs
To test the tightness of the valves, it is necessary to pour kerosene alternately into the inlet and exhaust channels of the cylinder head. The flow of kerosene from under the plates of valves indicates their leaks. The leakage valves are extracted from the cylinder head using the valve springs compression fixture (Figure 4.133).
When disassembling the valves, put in order corresponding to their location in the head, for the subsequent installation of their previous places.
Before witching the valve should be checked if there is no valve plate stamping and the valve and the saddle. In the presence of these defects, it is impossible to restore the tightness of the valve with wipe and should first be treated with a boring seat, and the damaged valve replace the new one. If the clearance between the valve rod and the guide sleeve exceeds 0.20 mm, then the valve and the sleeve should be replaced with new ones.
For spare parts of the valves are produced nominal size, and the guide sleeves are visible to the processing of the internal diameter after pressing the head and with the outer diameter of the three repair dimensions: the first - with an increase of 0.02 mm from the nominal, the second - with an increase of 0, 2 mm from the nominal, third - with an increase of 0.02 mm from the second repair size (Table 4.14).
Table 4.14. Controlled parameters when repairing the cylinder head of the valve mechanism and distributional shafts
Figure 4.134. Pressing the guide sleeves of valves
The extension of the worn guide of the sleeve is made with the mandrel (Figure 4.134).
Before reprinting guide sleeves, it is necessary to determine the mainfoldness of the head of the cylinder block.
The head of the cylinder block is maintainable, if, after processing the valve seat, the distance from the axis of the camshaft to the end of the valve rod, pressed to the work chamfer, will be at least 35.5 mm. If this condition is not fulfilled, the cylinder head is not subject to repair. The head of the cylinder block is also not subject to repairs, if the surface adjacent to the block has non-transcendence of more than 0.1 mm.
When installing new guide sleeves, they need to be cooled into carbon dioxide ("dry ice") to a temperature of minus 40-45 ° C, and the cylinder head is heated to a temperature plus 160-175 ° C. Sleeves when assembling must be inserted into the head hole freely or from lightweight.
The sleeves of the first repair size are installed in the head without additional processing of the holes in the head, the bushings of the second and third repair dimensions - with the pre-boring (sweep) of the holes to the diameter of 14.2 mm.
Figure 4.135. Profiles Sadls Valves: A - intake; In - graduation; b - chamfer width
After installing and scanning the chamfer chamfers, the saddles are treated (grinding or boring), centering the tool over the hole in the sleeve. When processing, it is necessary to withstand the sizes indicated in Figure 4.135, and ensure the concentricness of the chamfer on the valve seat with a hole in the sleeve (the beating of the working chamfer of the seat relative to the hole of the sleeve is allowed not more than 0.05 mm).
After processing the champers, it is necessary to reduce their width by treating the inner surface of the saddle at an angle of 30 ° to the size of "in", equal to (2 ± 0.4) mm in the seats of ink valves, (2 ± 0.3) mm at the saddle of the exhaust valve.
Then put the valves using a triwort paste composed of one part of the M-20 micropowder and two parts of oil and-20a.
Before pretending the head of the cylinder head, it is necessary to clean the combustion chambers and intake, outlet channels from nagar and sediments, pre-dlying to Nagar kerosene, this prevents spraying in its removal and prevents the ingress of poisonous dust when breathing. Wipe and blow with compressed air.
You must simultaneously install the support washers of springs using the mandrels of the valves at the same time using the mandrel of the springs and press the oil slimming caps. Valve rods to lubricate with oil used for the engine, insert valves into the sleeve according to the order of their installation and assemble them with springs using the device (see Figure 4.51). Make sure that the crucks entered the ring groove valves. Pour kerosene into intake, outlet channels and make sure the valve tightness.
To determine the gap in the bodies of the camshaft, all the bearing caps are needed in accordance with their numbers.
Before installing the covers "1", "2", "3", "4", "5", "6", "7" and "8" blocks of the cylinder head, they must be lubricated with oil used for the engine. The centering of these covers is performed using a cylindrical mandrel with a diameter of 35-0.02 mm, laid in bed. After tightening the covers with the moment 19-23 N · m (1.9-2.3 kgf · m), remove the cylinder head in the direction of the rear end (with the rear cylinder head cover should be removed). If in one of the bearings, the gap will be more than 0.15 mm, then you need to replace either the head of the cylinder block, or the camshaft.
The gap into the hole for the hydrotrapper and the hydrotrode should not exceed 0.15 mm. With a larger gap, it is necessary to replace either a hydrotherapler or the head of the cylinder block.
The surfaces of supporting necks and cams should be without bully and deep shells and not have wear exceeding extremely valid. After checking the shafts, it is necessary to clean and polish the surfaces of the shek and cams.
Controlled parameters when repairing cylinder heads, a valve mechanism and camshafts are shown in Table. 4.14.
Hydraulic machine
When repairing the engine, the hydraulic makers need to be disassembled, rinse their details and collect ("charge").
The disassembly of the hydraulic equipment is performed in the following order:
Figure 4.119. Hydraulic in assembly: 1 - valve assembly; 2 - shut-off ring; 3 - plunger; 4 - body; 5 - spring; 6 - Stop Ring
- to unscrew the valve body 1 (see Figure 4.119) from the hood 4 of the hydraulic equipment;
- remove 4 spring 5 and plunger 3 from the housing 4.
The hydroletlayer assembly is performed in the following order:
Figure 4.136. Mandrel for assembling hydraulic
- Install the housing 4 of the hydraulic machine to the mandrel attached vertically (Figure 4.136);
- insert a plunger 3 into the hydraulic casing (see Figure 4.119) until the locking ring 6 is stopped on the plunger in the mandrel, having previously licked up a pair of oil used for the engine;
- Insert a spring 500 in the plunger 5. On the spring, install the housing 1 hydraulic valve body and, squeezing the spring, wrap it into the housing, while the locking ring on the plunger should be in the housing duct and prevent the plunger movement in the housing.
Warnings
1. It is not allowed on the assembled hydroletulator. Pressing the protruding of the Plunger's sprawler in order to avoid the output of the plunger of engagement with the housing under the action of a compressed spring.
2. It is not allowed when assembling clamping the hydraulic casing in order to avoid violation of the plunger geometry.
Disassembly and assembly of the pump are similar to the specified operations for ZMZ-4025, -4026 engines.
Figure 4.80. Pressing the hub pulley coolant pump on the shaft
The difference consists only in the fact that when the bearing roller is under reference (see Figure 4.80), the hub of the pump pulley should be withstanding the size (106 ± 0.2) mm.
In case of faults in the lubricant system caused by problems in the operation of the oil pump, it must be disassembled.
For disassembly, you need to do the following:
- Bend the mesh frame mustache, remove the frame and the grid;
Figure 4.124. Oil pump: 1 - lead gear; 2 - body; 3 - roller; 4 - axis; 5 - driven gear; 6 - partition; 7 - Receiving Pipe with Mesh
- unscrew four bolts, remove the receiving nozzle 7 (see Figure 4.124) and partition 6;
- remove the driven gear 5 from the case 5 and roller 3 from the lead gear 7 assembly;
Figure 4.125. Reduction valve: 1 - plunger; 2 - spring; 3 - washer; 4 - Shplling
- remove the washer 3 (see Figure 4.125) Spring 2 and a plunger 7 of the gearbox from the receiving nozzle, pre-removing pin 4;
- Rinse parts and bleed with compressed air.
To verify the operation of the reduction valve, make sure that its plunger moves in its hole freely, without jamming, and the spring is in good condition.
The length of the spring in the free state should be 50 mm. The force on the spring when it is compressed by 10 mm should be 46 H (4.6 kgf). When weakening efforts, the spring must be replaced.
If on the plane of the oil pump partition is detected from gears, it is necessary to pass it before eliminating traces of production "as purely". With large wear of the housing, the pump should be replaced with the new one.
To assemble the pump, you need to do the following:
Install the plunger, the spring and the puck of the reduction valve into the hole in the receiving nozzle and fasten with a pin, pre-lubricating the oil plunger used for the engine;
Install in the oil pump housing roller assembly with a leading gear and check the ease of its rotation;
- Install the driven gear in the case and check the ease of rotation of both gears;
- establish a partition, receiving nozzle and retrain them to the case with four bolts with washers with a torque of 14-18 N · m (1.4-1.8 kgf · m);
- set the grid, mesh frame and sprinkle a frame of a frame on the edges of the oil pump receiver;
- Check the pressure developed by the pump. Pressure is checked with a certain output resistance. To do this, on a special installation to the outlet of the pump joins a fatter with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a length of 5 mm. A pump with a receiving nozzle and a grid should be in a tank, filled with a mixture consisting of 90% kerosene and 10% M8B or M-53/10-G1 oil. The mixture level in the tank must be 20-30 mm below the plane of the housing connector and the oil pump partition. The pump is driven against the electric motor. At the speed of the pump shaft 250 min-1, the pressure developed by the pump must be at least 120 kPa (1.2 kgf / cm2), and at 750 min-1 - from 400 to 500 kPa (from 4 to 5 kgf / cm2) .
Supply system
Power system repair is similar to repairing ZMZ-4025 engines, ZMZ-4026, described above in this manual.
Engine assembly
The dimensions of the interference parts that must be observed when assembling the engine and its nodes are shown in Table. 4.15.
Figure 4.137. Cylinder block and piston
Figure 4.138. crank mechanism
Figure 4.139. Intermediate shaft
Figure 4.140. Valve drive
Figure 4.141. Oil pump, reducing valve and oil pump drive
Figure 4.142. Cooling fluid pump The imbalance of rotating parts and nodes allowed when assembling the engine is indicated in Table. 4.16.
Preparatory operations Before assembling ZMZ-4061 engines, ZMZ-4063 are the same as before assembling ZMZ-4025 engines, ZMZ-4026.
Engine assembly must be made in the following order:
- Secure the cylinder block on the stand, carefully examine the cylinder mirror, if necessary, it should be removed by the scab with a stronger lounge above the top compression ring. Metal should be removed with a worn surface of the cylinder;
Remove the tubes of oil canals and blow all the oil channels with compressed air, wrap the plugs into place;
Comment
Crankshaft, flywheel and clutch assembly are not balanced
- wipe the bed with a napkin under the liners in the block and in the lid of the indigenous bearings;
- Install in bed block upper (with grooves) inserts of indigenous bearings, and in bed lids - lower (without grooves);
Wipe the liners with a napkin and lubricate them with engine oil;
- wipe the napkin indigenous and connecting rod crankshaft, lubricate them with clean engine oil and set the shaft into the cylinder block;
- lubricate with engine oil and install the hemispheres of the stubborn bearing: the upper - in the pole of the third indigenous bed of the cylinder block (an anntifriction layer for the cheek of the crankshaft); Bottom - along with the lid of the third root bearing. A mustache musty must go into the lid grooves;
Set the lids of the rest of the supports to the corresponding native cervix, wrap and tighten the fastening bolts of the indigenous bearing caps with a moment of 100-110 N · m (10-11 kgf · m), having pre-groaping the bolts of the bolts with engine oil;
- Turn the crankshaft, the rotation of it must be free with a slight effort;
Take the cover with the rear end of the crankshaft reversal end, check the suitability of the gland to further work. If the gland has worn working edges or weakly covers the crankshaft flange, replace it with a new one. Pressing the gland in the cover is recommended to be performed using oppaque;
Fill on 2/3 of the cavity between the working edge and the boot of the gland with a lubricant cyatim-221, install and fasten the cover to the bolted block with a moment of 12-18 N · m (1.2-1.8 kgf · m). Centering the cover to produce with mandrel;
Install the flywheel on the rear end of the crankshaft in such a way that the hole in the flywheel with the pin is combined;
Install the puck of the flywheel bolts, stand and tighten the bolts with a torque of 72-80 N · m (7.2-8.0 kgf · m);
Install in the flywheel spacer sleeve and press the ball bearing 80203As9 with protective washers.
Create a skeleton-piston group.
The selection of pistons to the block cylinders, as well as piston fingers to the pistons and rods, should be made at a temperature of parts (20 ± 3) ° C.
Pistons on the outer diameter and the inner diameter cylinders are sorted by five dimensional groups (see Table 4.17).
Table 4.17. Dimensional groups of pistons and cylinders block
| - |
| BUT |
| 92,000-91,988 |
| 92,036-92,048 |
| B. |
| 92,012-92,000 |
| 92,048-92,060 |
| IN |
| 92,024-92,012 |
| 92,060-92,072 |
| G. |
| 92,036-92,024 |
| 92,072-92,084 |
| D. |
| 92,048-92,036 |
| 92,084-92,096 |
| 0,5 |
| BUT |
| 92,500-92,488 |
| 92,536-92,548 |
| B. |
| 92,512-92,500 |
| 92,548-92,560 |
| IN |
| 92,524-92,512 |
| 92,560-92,572 |
| G. |
| 92,536-92,524 |
| 92,572-92,584 |
| D. |
| 92,548-92,536 |
| 92,584-92,596 |
| 1 |
| BUT |
| 93,000-92,988 |
| 93,036-92,048 |
| B. |
| 93,012-93,000 |
| 93,048-93,060 |
| IN |
| 93,024-93,012 |
| 93,060-93,072 |
| G. |
| 93,036-93,024 |
| 93,072-93,084 |
| D. |
| 93,048-93,036 |
| 93,084-93,096 |
In crocheted or new block cylinders, it is necessary to install pistons of the same with cylinders of dimensional groups.
Figure 4.60. Piston selection to the sleeve with the help of a tape-probe and dynamometer 24-U-17202
The selection of neighboring groups is allowed, while, as in the selection of pistons into working cylinders, the selection is made according to the strengthening of the tape-probe with a thickness of 0.05 mm and 10 mm width. The probe tape is laid between the cylinder and the piston in the entire height of the piston and is placed in the plane perpendicular to the axis of the piston finger along the largest piston diameter. The force on the dynamometer connected to the probe tape (see Figure 4.60) should be 35-45 H (3.5-4.5 kgf).
Marking pistons
The letter denoting the group is knocked out on the bottom of the piston;
Repair increase is denoted by the inscription "406" ( standard size) or "406ar" (repair increase 0.5), or "406br" (repair increase 1.0), cast on the side wall of one of the bobbies under the piston finger.
The letter, denoting the cylinder group, is applied with paint on the outer surface of the block, on the right, against each cylinder.
For ease of selection, the fingers, connecting rods and pistons are divided into four dimensional groups as the size decreases (Table 4.18).
| III |
| 21,9925-21,9900 |
| 21,9925-21,9900 |
| 21,9995-21,9970 |
| Red |
| IV |
Marking of fingers and rods
Fingers and connecting rods are marked with paint: finger - on the inner surface, rod - on the head rod. Piston - Roman numerals (knocked out) on the bottom or paint on the weight bobbishka.
The piston finger is selected to the connecting rod belonging to the same or neighboring group, with a gap from 0.0045 to 0.0095 mm.
Figure 4.61. Pad piston pin to connecting rod
When selecting a piston finger should be tightly, but without jamming in the hole of the rod head under the thumb strengthem (see Figure 4.61). The piston finger should be slightly lubricated with engine oil.
Since the linear expansion of the piston material is about 2 times larger than the finger material, then at normal room temperature, the finger is included in the hole of the piston bosses with the tension. Dimensional piston and finger groups must coincide.
Piston complete with piston finger, piston rings and rod assembly must be monitored by weight. The difference of sets by mass per engine should not exceed 10 g.
After the selection of pistons and piston fingers, it is necessary to continue the subtraction of a rod-piston group in the following order:
Figure 4.59. Nagar cleaning in piston grooves
Clear the bottoms of the pistons and grooves for piston rings from Nagara (see Figure 4.59);
Press the piston finger into the piston and connecting rod using the device (see Figure 4.60). At the same time, the piston is heated to a temperature of 60-80 ° C (pressing the finger into the cold piston can lead to the spurrel of the surface of the holes in the piston bosses, as well as to the deformation of the piston itself). Connecting rods and pistons before assembling with piston fingers should be focused as follows: the arrow on the bottom of the piston (or the inscription "before", located on the outside of the battle of the battlefield), the ledge on the side surface of the connecting rod and the ledge on the rod crank head should be directed to one side;
Figure 4.63. Selection of piston rings to the cylinder
Pistine rings on cylinders. The thermal gap measured in the castles of the rings placed in the cylinder (see Figure 4.63), should be 0.3-0.6 mm in compression rings and 0.5-1.0 mm - from steel disks of oil-chamming rings. In the worn cylinders, the smallest gap to make 0.3 mm - in compression rings and 0.5 mm - in steel discs of oil-chained rings;
Figure 4.64.
Check the dipped gap between the rings and the wall of the piston groove (see Figure 4.64). Checking on the circumference of the piston at several points. The magnitude of the gap should be for the upper and lower compression rings in the range of 0.050-0.087 mm, for the collective oil surcharge ring - 0.115-0.365 mm;
Figure 4.4. Installing piston rings on the piston: 1 - upper compression ring; 2 - Lower compression ring; 3 - ring disk; 4 - axial expander; 5 - Radial Expander
Wear with a fixture piston rings on the piston. Bottom compression ring to put internal pump up to the piston's bottom (see Figure 4.4). Rings in grooves must move freely;
Insert pistons into cylinders as follows:
Orient the connecting rod-piston group so that the arrow on the bottom of the piston (or the inscription "in front of the bobbish) was turned forward;
Wipe the beds of connectors and their covers, wipe and insert inserts into them;
Turn the crankshaft so that the crankshes of the first and fourth cylinders occupy the position corresponding to NMT;
Lubricate the liners, piston, rod shaft shaft and the first cylinder with clean engine oil;
Divide the castles of compression rings at an angle of 180 ° to each other, the locks of the oil-circulation rings also at an angle of 180 ° to each other and 90 ° in relation to the castles of compression rings. The lock of the two-function expander to set at the same time at an angle of 45 ° to the lock of one of the annular drives;
To put on the rod bolts safety brass tips, squeeze the rings with crimp or using the mandrel for installation in the piston cylinder;
Figure 4.65. Installing the piston with rings in a cylinder with mandrel
Insert the piston into the cylinder (see Figure 4.65). Before installing the piston, make sure that the numbers that are knocked out on the connecting rod and its cover correspond to the sequence number of the cylinder, check the correct position of the piston and connecting rod in the cylinder;
Tighten the connecting rod for the crank head to the rod cervix, remove brass tips from the bolts, put the rod cover. The connecting rod cover should be placed so that the numbers that are knocked out on the cover and connecting rod have been treated in one direction. Wrap the nuts with a torque wrench torque of 68-75 N · m (6.8-7.5 kgf · m);
Insert the fourth cylinder piston in the same order;
Rotate the crankshaft 180 ° and insert the pistons of the second and third cylinders;
Rotate several times the crankshaft, which should rotate easily from a little effort;
Install the oil pump holder and the oil pump on the block and secure them;
Lubricate the motor oil of the intermediate shaft bushings, set the key in the groove on the shank of the intermediate shaft and install the shaft into the cylinder block before the shank yield;
Install the oil pump drive gear with a nut on the shank of the intermediate shaft and wrap the gear nut;
Install and secure the intermediate shaft flange, while the smaller diameter of the hole on the flange should be seamless to the block;
Lubricate with engine oil roller with the driven gear drive of the oil pump and insert it into the hole in the block before entering the gear of the oil pump drive;
In the hole of the roller bushings insert the hex roller of the oil pump drive;
Install the gasket and the oil pump drive cover, fasten the lid;
Install the camshaft drives in the following order:
Figure 4.116. Front end of the crankshaft: 1 - bolt (or ratchet); 2 - pulley damper with disk synchronization; 3 gland; 4 - circuit cover; 5 - sleeve; 6 - asterisk; 7 - block of cylinders; 8 - Bearing liners; 9 - crankshaft; 10 - Bearing cover; 11 - Oil Carter; 12 - rubber sealing ring; 13 - Stopper washer
Press the sprocket 6 (see Figure 4.116) on the crankshaft shank;
Install the rubber sealing ring 12 and the sleeve 5 of the large internal chamfer to the sealing ring on the crankshaft shank;
Install the crankshaft pulley key into the keypads;
Figure 4.118. The drive of the camshaft: 1 - the starrel of the crankshaft; 2 - hydrochlorinator of the bottom chain; 3 - noise insulating rubber washer; 4 - traffic jam; 5 - Hydraulic shoe of the bottom chain; 6 - lower chain; 7 - driven asterisk intermediate shaft; 8 - the leading sprocket of the intermediate shaft; 9 - Hydraulic shoe upper chain; 10 - Hydruty the upper chain; 11 - upper chain; 12 - installation label on an asterisk; 13 - installation pin; 14 - an elevator of the camshaft of the inlet valves; 15 - the upper caller of the chain; 16 - sprocket of the camshaft of exhaust valves; 17 - the upper plane of the head of the cylinder block; 18 - medium caller chain; 19 - the lower caller of the chain; 20 - circuit cover; ML and M2 - installation labels on the cylinder block
Turn the engine crankshaft to match the label on the crankshaft astero with the M2 label on the cylinder block (see Figure 4.118), which will correspond to the position of the first cylinder piston in the VMT. At the same time, the label on the cylinder block should be located symmetrically relative to the axis of the depression of the sprockets;
Set the lower caller of the chain 19, without twisting the fastening bolts finally;
To put on the chain 6 on the slave asterisk 7 (the number of teeth - 38) of the intermediate shaft and on an asterisk of 1 crankshaft engine. Install an asterisk with a chain to an intermediate shaft, while the label on the driven asterisk of the intermediate shaft should coincide with the label "M1" on the cylinder block, and the leading branch of the chain passing through the calm must be stretched;
Install the leading asterisk 8 (the number of teeth - 19) intermediate shaft and fasten the asterisks on the intermediate shaft bolts. Lock plate bend on the verge of bolts;
Install the Hydraulic Hydraulic Circuit Bath 5 (bottom chain) of the camshaft drive;
Pressing the Hydrocket Shoe, pull the chain, check the correctness of the set of stars by the labels and finally fasten the lower reassureer 19. After setting the drive chain of the intermediate shaft, the crankshaft is not allowed to set the crankshaft chain of the camshaft and hydraulic drivers;
Install the 2-stage hydraulic equipment shoe 9 (upper chain) of the camshaft drive;
To put on the leading asterisk 8 intermediate shaft chain 11 of the second stage of the camshaft drive;
Take a chain cover with a rubber seal, check the suitability of the gland to further work. If the gland has worn working edges or weakly covers the sleeve of the crankshaft, replace it with a new one. Pressing the gland to the cover is recommended using a mandrel;
Fill on 2/3 cavity between the working edge and the boot of the gland with a lubricant cyatim1-221;
Holding the chain of the second stage from scolding from the sprocket of the intermediate shaft, install and secure the chain cover and at the same time the generator bracket, tighten the screws with torque 22-27 N · m (2.2-2.7 kgf · m);
Install and fasten the coolant pump on the circuit cover, tightening the pump fastening bolt to the lid of the circuit with a torque of 22-27 N · m (2.2-2.7 kgf · m);
Grease the engine oil under the hydraulic machine in the circuit cover and install the assembled hydroletulator 2 to the touch of the shoe, but not to press, in order to exclude the operation of the hydraulic switch;
Install in the hydraulic lid noise insulating rubber washer 3;
Close the hydraulic sensor cover and secure it with two bolts;
Press the mandrel through the hole in the hydraulic sensor cover, moving it until it stops, then release, while the locking ring on the plunger will be released from the hood with the hydraulic casing and will allow the plunger and the body to move under the action of the springs. The housing will move until it stops on the puck in the lid, and the chain through the shoe will be stretched;
Wrap a plug 4 into the hydraulic tension cover;
Install on the coolant coolant pipe, connecting the pump nozzle with the thermostat housing pipe;
Apply to the horizontal end of the circuit cover and the joint of the circuit cover with the cylinder block thin layer of glue-sealant elastosyl 137-83;
Install the cylinder head gasket on the blocks of the block bushings and also apply adhesive sealant elastosil 137-83 to the surface of the gasket located above the chain lid;
Figure 4.34. Tightening sequence of cylinder head fastening
Install the stellated head of the cylinder block on the unit and tighten the head fastening bolts into two stages - pre-tightening with a torque of 40-60 nm (4-6 kgf · m) and final - 130-145 N · m (13.0-14.5 kgf · M). The sequence of tightening the cylinder head mounting bolts is indicated on the PIS. 4.34. Threads of bolts before installing with oil;
Unscrew the bolts and remove the covers of the camshaft, wipe the bed with a napkin for distribution shafts in the head and in the covers;
Lubricate by engine oil used for the engine, holes for the head under the hydrotherapists and install the hydrothels in the cylinder head. When repairing the engine without replacing the hydrotroders, set them in accordance with the marking applied to them during the disassembly, when the hydrotherapyer is output, it is subsequently replaced, since it is not repaired. Remove the hydrotherapists must be sucked or magnet;
Install distributional shafts on the head of the cylinder block, pre-lubricating the bed in the head, cams and cervixes of distribution shafts with engine oil. The camshaft of the intake valves is installed by the stars pin, and the distribution shaft of the exhaust valves - the stard pin to the right. During the angular arrangement of the cams, these positions of the camshaft are stable;
Install the front cover of the distribution shafts with the hard flanges installed in it on the installation sleeves, while due to the longitudinal movement of the camshafts to ensure the installation of thrust flanges in the grooves;
Set the covers No. 3 and No. 7 of the camshafts and pre-tighten the bolts of fastening the covers to contact the surface of the covers with the upper plane of the cylinder head;
Install all other covers in accordance with the labeling and tighten the pre-bolts of the covers fastening;
Finally tighten the bolts of fastening of distribution grinding caps with a torque of 19-23 N · m (1.9-2.3 kgf · m);
Lubricate all camshaft camshafts with engine oil and check the rotation of each camshaft in supports, for which it is necessary to test the distribution shaft with the key for a special tetrahedron on the camshaft to the full compression of the valve springs of one of the cylinders. With a further turn, the camshaft must independently be checked under the action of valve springs before the touch position of the following cams with pushers;
Check the ease of rotation of the distributional shafts and then turn them to turn them so that the installation pins 13 (see Figure 4.118) were estimated at the starrel approximately horizontally and were directed to different directions. These positions of the camshaft are stable and provided by the corner arrangement of cams;
Start the installation of the angular position of the camshaft from the grade valve shaft. To do this, thumping on an asterisk 16 drive chain, install an asterisk on the flange and pin of the camshaft, while to match the pin and holes on the asterisk, turn the camshaft for the tetrahedron clockwise. Tighten the camshaft counterclockwise to pull the leading branch of the chain, while the label 12 on the asterisk should coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head 17. It is impossible to damage the crankshaft;
For the angular installation of the camshaft of the exhaust valves, throw the drive chain on the sprocket 14, to install an asterisk on the flange and the pinch of the camshaft with a slightly checked branch of the chain between the asterisks. Turn the camshaft counterclockwise to pull the chain, while the label 12 on the asterisk must coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head;
Insert in the jack of stars of the camshaft inlet valves Eccentric actuator of the fuel pump;
Install and tighten 46-74 N · m (4.6-7.4 kgf · m) The bolts of the attachment of asterisks (and eccentric on the camshaft of the inlet valves), holding the switchgear from turning the key to the tetrahedron;
Install the hydraulicer 10 of the upper chain of the camshaft drives in the same way as the hydraulic power supply chain is installed;
Install the average 18 and the upper 15 chain calmrs, without wrapping the fastening bolts finally;
Tighten the working branches of the second stage circuit with the rotation of the crankshaft of the engine along the rotation and finally fasten the medium and upper caloriers of the chain;
Install the pulley on the crankshaft shank until it stops and screw the bolt with a torque of 104-128 N · m (10.4-12.8 kgf · m);
Conduct the installation of distribution shafts at the end of the assembly. To do this, turn the engine crankshaft along the rotation of two turns before matching the label on the crankshaft damper tagged on the chain lid. At the same time, the labels on the sprockets of the camshaft must coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head;
When repairing the engine associated with the removal of camshafts, cylinder heads and sprockets on the intermediate shaft, the installation of the camshaft drive during the assembly is made, as indicated above;
In case, during repair, the sprockets of the intermediate shaft and the circuit cover are not removed, then before disassembling it is necessary to install the piston of the 1st cylinder to the NMT position on the compression tact, while the risk on the crankshaft pulley must match the protrusion on the chain cover, and the labels on the chain Sparies of switchgears must be arranged horizontally, directed in different directions and coincide with the upper plane of cooking cylinders.
After removing the camshaft and cylinder heads, the crankshaft rotation can only be with return to its original position or 2 turns. Rotate the crankshaft on 1 turnover Even when the labels are coincided on the pulley and the chain lid will lead to incorrect installation Phases of gas distribution. With the wrong installation of the camshaft and stars, the labels on the asterisks will not coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head. In this case, it is necessary to remove the stars, turn the crankshaft along the rotation of the rotation to 1 turnover and repeat the installation of spars, as described above;
Install and secure the pulley of the coolant pump;
Collect the front cover of the cylinder head with an intermediate fuel pump drive lever and spring;
Install and secure the front cover of the cylinder head;
Install the thermostat housing pipe into the hose on the coolant pump nozzle and consolidate the thermostat body on the cylinder head, tighten the hose clamps;
Install the exhaust manifold, the bracket for lifting the engine and the bracket of the water intake tube on the studs of the exhaust manifold, to put on and tighten the mounting nuts;
Press the tube of the rod pointer of the oil level and set the pointer;
Install and secure the valve cover;
Install and secure the top bracket of the generator and at the same time the bracket for lifting the engine front;
Install and secure the tensioning roller;
Install and secure the inlet tube;
Lubricate the joints of the bottom flange of the cylinder block with a chain lid and with the back cover with a sealant-sealant elastosyl 137-83 or PABS UN-25;
Install on the lower flange of the cylinder block laying the base of the oil crankcase;
Install and secure the palter pallet and clutch crankcase amplifier;
Install and secure the slave and pressure clutch discs, centering the slave disk with the mandrel;
Put the parts and engine aggregates, (see "Engine disassembly"), observing the reverse sequence;
Remove the engine from the stand, install and attach the clutch crankcase to the cylinder block;
Lubricate and put on the front cover of the gearbox clutch clutch clutch assembly with the bearing;
Put and secure the gearbox;
Put the plug of clutch.
Engine installation on a car
Installing the engine on the car is made in the sequence to remove it.
Page 2 of 2
12. Bend the accelerator cable holder and remove the cable from it. Divide the accelerator cable away from the engine.
Disconnect the wires from the generator.
13. Disconnect the plugging block 1 from the idle regulator. Unscrew the nut 2 and remove the "mass" wire with the stud at the rear end of the receiver.
14. Disconnect the plugging block 1 from the air temperature sensor.
Loosen the tightening of the clamp 2 and remove the cooling fluid supply hose from the heater crane fitting
15. Disconnect the plugging pads 1 from the nozzles. Take over the holders of 2 wiring harness and remove the harness from the holders.
Divide the wiring harness away from the engine.
Then disconnect the fuel receiver from the exhaust manifold, disconnect the hose from the throttle body, remove the supply pipe of the radiator, remove the generator.
1. Remove the camshafts.
2. Loosen the tightening of the clamps 1 and remove the hoses 2 and 3 from the fittings of the throttle housing.
3. Remove the thermostat with the case.
4. Remove the spark plugs.
5. Unscrew the bolts 1 of the block head. Remove bolts 1 and washers.
6. Remove the cylinder head and block head block.
You can not score between the head of the block and the screwdriver cylinder block or some other tool, as you can damage the surface of the block head adjacent to the cylinder block.
Installation
Install the block head in order reverse removal.
The order of tightening bolts of the block of the block head is shown in the figure.
Block fastening bolts Tighten into two stages:
1st stage - 40-60 N · m (4.0-6.0 kgf · m);
2nd stage - 130-145 N · m (13.0-14.5 kgf · m).
Page 1 of 2
The head of the block can be removed with the receiver and exhaust manifold.
If the block head is removed from the engine installed on the car, you need to pre-execute the operations specified in the "Removing and Installing Engine" subsection.
You can still see the article - "Replacement gBC pads".
Then disconnect the fuel receiver from the exhaust manifold, disconnect the hose from the throttle body, remove the supply pipe of the radiator, remove the generator.
Remove switchgear.
Loosen the tightening of the clamps 1 and remove the hoses 2 and 3 from the throttle housing housing.
Remove the thermostat with the case.
Remove spark plugs.
Unscrew the bolts 1 fixing the head of the block. Remove bolts 1 and washers.
Remove the head of the cylinder block and the block head gasket.
You can not score between the head of the block and the screwdriver cylinder block or some other tool, as you can damage the surface of the block head adjacent to the cylinder block.
Disassembly
1. Unscrew the nuts 1 and remove the 5 phase sensor screen, bracket 2 for lifting the engine and exhaust manifold 6.
Remove the graduation collector gaskets. Unscrew the bolt 3 and remove the phase 4 sensor.
Unscrew the emergency pressure sensors of oil 7 and oil pressure pointer 8.
2. Loosen the tightening of the clamp 1 and remove the hose from the nozzle of the idle regulator.
Unscrew the nuts 2 and remove the receiver 3 from the inlet tube.
Remove the receiver laying.
3. Unscrew the nuts 1 and remove the inlet tube 2 together with the nozzles and the fuel line.
Remove the gasket of the inlet tube.
Unscrew the bolts 1 and remove the back cover 2 of the block head.
Remove the cover of the lid.
Remove the valve hydro pulls.
The hydrothels are more convenient to remove with a magnet or sucker.
The hydrotherapists cannot be changed in places, so before removing they need to be marked to install in the assembly in their place.
Store the hydrotherapists should be kept in the same position in which they stand on the valves so that oil does not flow.
Install the device for compressing the valve springs on the block.
Squeezing the springs of the valves using the device, remove the clutches of 2 valves.
Then, gradually weakening the pressure on the handle of the device, completely dismiss the springs of the valve.
Remove the device from the block head. Remove plate 3 valve springs. Then remove the outdoor and inner springs of the valve.
Remove the oil reflective cap 1 valve.
7. Pick up a screwdriver and remove the support washer 1 valve springs.
8. Remove the valve from the combustion chamber.
9. In the same way, remove the remaining valves.
Before removing, marking all the valves so that when assembling, install them in your place.
avtomechanic.ru.
Repair of the head of the Cylinder Cylinder ZMZ-405, ZMZ-406
Page 1 of 2
Repairing the head of the cylinder block we produce when general repairs Engine and when replacing the gasket GBC.
It is very important to make the repair of the head after the motor has overheated. During overheating, defects may occur, which can be visually not seen. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully do all the operations on the repair of the cylinder head. In many respects, the engine operation depends. And it will save from excess work and costs.
Removing the head of the cylinder block, we look at the article - "Replacing the gasket of the cylinder head."
Disassembly
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1. Remove nuts 1 and remove the phase 5 sensor screen, bracket 2 for lifting the engine and exhaust manifold 6. Remove the exhaust manifold gaskets. Unscrew the bolt 3 and remove the phase 4 sensor. Unscrew the emergency pressure sensors of oil 7 and oil pressure pointer 8. |
2. Loosen the tightening of the clamp 1 and remove the hose from the nozzle of the idle regulator. Unscrew the nuts 2 and remove the receiver 3 from the inlet tube. Remove the receiver laying. |
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3. Unscrew the nuts 1 and remove the inlet tube 2 together with the nozzles and the fuel line (not shown in the photo). Remove the gasket of the inlet tube. |
4. Unscrew the bolts 1 and remove the rear cover 2 of the block head. |
| Remove the cover of the lid. | 5. Remove the valve hydro pulls. The hydrothels are more convenient to remove with a magnet or sucker. |
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The hydrotherapists cannot be changed in places, so before removing they need to be marked to install in the assembly in their place. Store the hydrotherapists should be kept in the same position in which they stand on the valves so that oil does not flow. |
If the removal design does not stop valve, put the appropriate emphasis under it. |
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Squeeze the springs by the dismissant. To make a plate of springs easier with superstars, you can apply a slightly punch with a hammer at a residual slicer of the dishwasher. |
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Remover remove oil cap ... |
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Pick up a screwdriver and remove the support washer 1 of the valve springs. |
I turn over the head of the cylinder block and take out the valve, placing the place of its installation, in order for the valve during the subsequent assembly in its previous place. Similarly remove and labeled the remaining valves. |
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Worn guides of valve sleeves are extruded by a mandrel. |
The hex key "on 8" turn the oil channel plugs. |
autoruk.ru.
repeated broaching of the GBC.
And hello again :) However, I often ask - "Do I need re-broach GBC? ". There are many who who believe that he put the head, tightened and do not touch her more.
In the process of its pretty long work, a motorist, and this is more than a quarter of a century, I made sure that if you are lazy to stretch the head through the time laid for a broach, then after a while, and it depends on the motor manner The driver and distances are simultaneously traveled, have to be removed.
Usually, the gasket burns throughout the year, AI, if a person rides for a long distance, then in a month. Therefore, my advice is: it is impossible to go far with an unzipped head, and otherwise you will have to shoot it on the road. But you know, I noticed if the technique came directly from the factory, then through a mileage for broaching, the heads are rarely weakened. It is possible that the laying material, which is put there yet.
So how much do you need to stretch the cylinder head? On average, one thousand km. Run. So it is written in the instructions and this is confirmed by practice. In the instructions on so- It is also written that in ten thousand you need to stretch or check the head stretch.
Well, in most cases there was enough one broach. But rare certainly, but there were cases that when the gasket burned, the head was weak even after one broach. In my opinion, it all depends on the material of the gasket GBC, which is very sitting, and which does not seem at all.
Physics of this phenomenon, namely the weakening of the head broach is obvious. Typically, the cylinder heads are aluminum, and the bolts or stiletto fastenings are still steel. When the aluminum is heated, the expansion coefficient is greater than that of steel and when the engine heats up, the head expanding squeezes the gasket as a press, and when it cools, it is also released and the gasket is already siled, and the zesessino bolts are weakened.
There is a rule: it is impossible to stretch the hot engine, only cold. I will tell you a list of engines that need to stretch from your experience with whom I was dealing, namely: ZMZ405.406,409. ZMZ-402 engines, UAZ 417,421. Engines ZMZ 511,512,523, ZIL-130, Urals.
I will not say about others, but usually the VAZ heads are rarely lying. I also can't say anything about foreign cars, because I did not want to go through them, but I don't want to ask. That's all.
No, not all. In order not to suffer with a re-stretcher of the head, while it is necessary to disassemble almost half of the engine in order to make sure that it does not break, but sometimes it happens. Depends on the laying material. Immediately and do not guess.
In order not to stretch the head re-head, you can put a metal bottle. About then you can read here. And although I wrote about UAZ-Patriot, this may refer to many engines. Good luck friends!
gazung.ru.
Tightening torques of major threaded compounds ZMZ 402, ZMZ-4021, ZMZ-4062
Bolt fixtures of distribution gears 11-16 (1.1-1,6) nut mounting nuts for distribution gears 12-18 (1.2-1.8) nut mounting cover of the pusher box 12-18 (1.2-1.8 ) Nut for fastening the head of the cylinder block 85-90 (8.5-9.0) bolt fastening the back cover of the cylinder block 11-16 (1.1-1.6) nut bolt fastening rod cover 68-75 (6,8- 7.5) Fastening nut 78-83 (7.8-8.3) Bolt for fastening the crankshaft pulley 11-16 (1.1-1.6) Cranching bolt of the crankshaft (ratchet) 170-220 (17-22 ) Bolt of fastening of the stop flange of the camshaft 11-16 (1.1-1.6) bolt of fastening of the gear wheel of the camshaft 55-60 (5.5-6.0) nut of the fastening of the rack of the axis of the rocker axis 35-40 (3.5- 4.0) Bolt fastening rumor cover 4.5-8.0 (0.45-0.8) Nut for fastening of the exhaust manifold to the intake pipe 44-56 (4,4-5.6) nut fastening of the ink pipe and exhaust manifold To the head of the block 40-56 (4.0-5.6) the nut fastening of the oil crankcase 12-15 (1.2-1.5) nut fastening of the oil pump 18-25 (1.8 -2.5) Ignition distributor drive bolt 6.0-8.0 (0.6-0.8) nut mounting nut of the root bearing 100-110 (10-11) fastening nut oil filter 12-18 (1.2-1.8) fuel pump fastening bolt 12-18 (1.2-1.8) nut fastening fastening fuel filter 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Water pump mount nut 18-25 (1.8-2.5) Water pump pulley fastening bolt 12-18 (1.2-1.8) clutch crankcase mounting bolt 28-36 (2.8-3.6) clutch crankcase nut -56 (4.0-5.6) bolt fastening of the clutch pressure disk 20-25 (2.0-2.5) nut fastening bracket generator 44-62 (4,4-6.2)
Nut fastening of the generator 44-56 (4.4-5.6) Ignition Candle 30-40 (3.0-4.0) fan bolt 14-18 (1.4-1.8)
Bolt fastening of the cover of the root bearing 100-110 (10.0-11.0) nut bolt fastening of rods of rods 68-75 (6,8-7.5) bolt fastening of the flywheel 72-80 (7.2-8.0) bolt Fastening the head of the cylinder block:
- the first step 40-60 (4.0-6.0) - the second step 130-145 (13.0-14.5) bolt of fastening of the camshaft covers 19-23 (1.9-2.3) crankshaft bolt Shaft (ratchet) 104-128 (10.4-12.8) Bolt fastening of the camshaft of the camshaft 56-62 (5,6-6.2) nut fastening nut 29-36 (2.9-3.6) Bolt of fastening of the front cover of the head of the cylinder block 22-27 (2.2-2.7) bolt for fastening the pulley of the water pump 22-27 (2.2-2.7) the fastening bolt of the water pump 22-27 (2.2-2, 7) Bolt of fastening of gear wheels of the intermediate shaft 22-27 (2.2-2.7) Nut for fastening the receiver to the inlet tube 19-23 (1.9-2.3) The fastening nut of the exhaust manifold 20-25 (2.0- 2.5) Bolt of fastening of oil crankcase 12-18 (1.2-1.8) when tighting is allowed to be allowed 6 N · m (0.6 kgf · m)
Bolt fastening the cover of the cylinder block of 5.0-8.0 (0.5-0.8) when ensuring tightness is allowed by a moment of 3 N · m (0.3 kgf · m) Bolt of fastening of a relaxer 12-18 (1,2- 1.8) fueling bolt with nozzles 5.0-8.0 (0.5-0.8) bolt fastening inductive sensors 5.0-8.0 (0.5-0.8) Ignition Candle 31-38 (3.1-3.8) Starter fastening bolt 67-75 (6.7-7.5) Nut for fastening of generator brackets 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Bolt fastening the clutch pressure disk 20-25 (2 0-2.5) clutch crankcase fastening bolt 42-51 (4.2-5,1) clutch crankcase amplifier bolt 29-36 (2.9-3.6) bolt fastening fastening force clutch fork 42-51 ( 4.2-5,1)
Other compounds
Nut Clamps Adjusting Tube Steering Tract 15-18 (1.5-1.8) Finger nizhny lever front suspension 180-200 (18-20) nut axis axis front lever 70-100 (7.0-10.0) screw threaded hinge screw 120-200 (12.0-20.0) bolt and nut mounting axis Levers 44-56 (4.4-5.6) Wheel fastening bolt 100-120 (10-12) Nut for the leading gear of the rear axle 160-200 (16-20) Front suspension fastening bolt to the body 125-140 (12, 5-14) Nut for fastening the steering mechanism 50-60 (5.0-6.0) nut mounting nut 65-75 (6.5-7.5) nut fastening of the power steering mechanism 105-120 (10.5 -12) Bolt fastening bracket of the pendulum lever 50-62 (5.0-6.2.2) bolt and nut mounting of the steering column to the instrument panel 12-18 (1.2-1.8) nut of the steering wedge 18-25 (1 , 8-2.5) Suction Pump Steering Pump Pump 32-40 (3.2-4,0) Bolt Outlet Control Valve 80-100 (8.0-10.0) Top and Nizhny Nut Tips of the discharge hose of the built-in power steering 44-62 (4.4-6.2) Nut of the upper and lower tips of the injection hose of the built-in steering power steering 44-62 (4,4-6.2) nut tube tube of the built-in steering power steering 44-62 (4.4-6, 2) Nut connection of the tip of the injection hose and power cylinder of a separate power steering of the steering 32-40 (3.2-4.0) bolt-fitting of the drain hose of the built-in power steering 80-100 (8.0-10.0) fastening bolt swivel fist, lever and bracket 80-100 (8.0-10.0) 80-100 rotation limiter (8.0-10.0) Nut fastening axis axis pedals of brake and clutch 32-36 (3,2-3.6) Bolt mounting brake shield of the rear brake 65-80 (6.5-8.0) bolt fastening brackets of the front brake 110-125 (11.0-12.5)
Bolt fastening of the rear brake wheel cylinder 8.0-18.0 (0.8-1.8) Nut of the fastening of the pressure supplement controller 8.0-18.0 (0.8-1.8) The nut fastening of the main cylinder of the brakes 24- 56 (2.4-5.6) nut mounting of a vacuum amplifier 8.0-18.0 (0.8-1.8) Bolt fastening bolt of the rear knocker shaft 50-56 (5.0-5,6) nut mounting of the cardan shaft to rear bridge 27-30 (2.7-3.0) Fastening nut of the intermediate support to the body 27-30 (2.7-3.0) Bolt of fastening of the intermediate support to the crossbar 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Nut Fastening the gearbox to the clutch 2-62 (5.0-6.2)
For other threaded connections, tightening torque:
for m6 - 6-8 n · m (0.6-0.8 kgf · m) for M8 - 14-18 N · m (1.4-1.8 kgf · m) for M10 - 28-36 N · M (2.8-3.6 kgf · m) for M12 - 50-62 N · m (5.0-6.2 kgf · m)
This is how the reared bolt looks like :)
gaz-Autoclub.ru.
Replacing the ZMZ-406 engine camshafts
Page 1 of 2
1. Remove the spark plug tips along with high-voltage wires, ignition coils (you can only disconnect the connectors, leaving them on the valve cover), the throttle drive cable and disconnecting the wires from the sensors of lubricant and cooling systems, remove the wiring harness from the block head cover.
2. We merge the cooling fluid and remove the upper radiator hoses and the mass flow sensor with air ducts.
7. Head on 36, set a crankshaft to the first cylinder compression tact position, turning it for the pulley attachment bolt (the risk on the crankshaft pulley must coincide with the protrusion on the front cover of the cylinder block, and the labels on the sprockets of the camshafts - at the top edges of the head block).
|
8. The key to 12 turn the four bolts and remove the front cover of the block head. 9. Remove the upper hydrochlorinator (see Removing and installing hydrolets). |
10. Hex key on 6 turn the two screws and remove the upper caller of the chain. |
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11. Having unscrewed the hex key to 6 two screws, removing the average chain calm. |
12. The key to 17 turn the fastening bolt of the exhaust valve sprocket, holding the shaft to the key to 30. |
|
13. Remove the asterisk. Similarly, remove the asterisk from the second camshaft. |
14. The key to 12 turns out four bolts of fastening the front cover of the distribution shafts. Consistently, by half turn, weakening the tightening of the bolts fastening the camshaft covers, until the valve springs stop pressing the shafts and turn the bolts. |
avtomechanic.ru.
Removing and repairing the head of the engine cylinders of the ZMZ 406
We drain the cooling fluid from the system (see "Replacing the coolant"). Remove hoses from thermostat nozzles or remove the thermostat
(see Check and Replacing the thermostat "). Disconnect the wire block from the camshaft position sensor
(See "Checking and replacing the camshaft position sensor"). Remove the generator with its top bracket (see "Removing the Generator"). If the head of the engine cylinder block of the ZMZ 406 is dismantled with the purpose of repair or replacement, then pre-removing the inlet pipeline (see "Replacing the gasket of the inlet pipeline") and the exhaust manifold (see "Replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets"). If the work is performed with a different goal (for example, it is necessary to replace the cylinder head gasket), then the head can be removed assembled with the intake pipeline and the outlet manifold. Remove switching shafts (see "Removing distributional shafts"). Hexagon "On 12" turn over the ten screws fastening the head of the engine cylinders of the ZMZ 406.
and take out the screws.
Take out the pucks of the screws.
We take out the hydrocomathers (see "Replacing the hydrocompensators"). Placing their location in the head of the cylinder block. Remove the head of the cylinder block.
and its gasket.
The conjugated surfaces of the head and the cylinder block thoroughly clean from the car, the remains of the old gasket and sealant. Having attached a ruler to the bustal plane of the cylinder block head.
a set of probe check the non-sympathy of the head of the cylinder block. With non-reduction of over 0.05 mm, the head plane must be restored by mechanical processing, however, if non-plane exceeds 0.1 mm, the head is not maintainable.
The key "on 10" turns over eight bolts.
remove the rear cylinder head cover with gasket.
We establish the dismakeholder on the head of the cylinder block. If the design of the solucharifier is not provided by the valve stop, we put a wooden bar for a valve plate. The distributor is squeezing the valve spring. To make a plate of springs easier with superstars. We apply a light blows with a hammer at a stubborn sock of the dismissant.
Tweezers take out two croutons and smoothly let go of the spring.
Remove the upper plate and two valve springs.
Remover remove oil cap cap.
and remove the support washer.
I turn over the head of the ZMZ 406 engine cylinder block and remove the valve, placing the place of its installation, in order for the valve during the subsequent assembly, the valve rose to its former place. Similarly remove and labeled the remaining valves. Hexagon "On 8" turn the oil channel plugs.
To wipe the valves.
approximate paste on the valve brass and install the valve into the corresponding guide sleeve of the cylinder block of the ZMZ 406 engine.
Fix on the foot of the valve device for wipes and.
cressing the valve to the saddle, alternately turn it on both sides.
We continue to the tick until the valve sealing chamfer is completely in all its width and length will not be matte and clean.
The chamfer on the valve saddle should also look like.
We wash the wind from the valve and the saddle of the remains of the paste.
Similarly, we carry out the remaining valves. Before assembling the head of the Cylinder Cylinder Cylinder 406 kerosene or diesel fuel We wash the head, clean the oil channels from deposits. Then wipe the surface with clean rag and blow the channels with compressed air.
We collect and install the head of the CISM 406 cylinder block in the reverse order. Valve stem seals We replace new. Before installing the valves of their rods are coated with engine oil.
From the threaded holes of the cylinder block under the head mounting screws, we remove the remains of the oil and coolant.
On the capel plane of the front cover of the cylinder block (on a block of contact with the block of the block head) we apply a sealant.
ZMZ 406 engine cylinder head gasket replace new. By installing the head of the cylinder block to the block, follow the "sat down" to the installation bushings. Before installing the screws of the cylinder head, the engine oil is applied to their threaded part. Screws tighten with a dynamometric key in two stages, observing the sequence of their tightening. Pre-tighten with their torque of 50 nm, then finally - 140 nm. The order of tightening bolts fastening the head of the cylinder block
Having installed all the details and nodes, fill in the cooling system with liquid and replace the engine oil
Overhaul of GBC ZMZ 406, 405, 409 under gas.
Repair GBC.
note2auto.ru.
Serving the head of the block of cylinders with their own hands »AvtoVator
As we have already managed to figure out, the GBC is one of the most important assemblies of the engine. If you feel confident and have the skills of owning a plumbing tool, the broaching head of the block of the cylinder of labor will not be. It remains to decide for what and how to carry out the GBC broach.
When you need a broaching head of the cylinder block
Maybe not all motorists know but modern cars Do not need a preventive breakdown of cylinder heads.
Previously, the GBC broach was the mandatory point of the first, then the situation has changed. Even with contemporary VAZ engines. The cylinder head broach is mainly required for old models of VAZ, UAZ, Moskvich, etc..
The main reason that passes the owner of the car to think about the need to pull the GBC, are "wet" in the place of connecting the head and block. This indicates an existing oil leakage.
There may be several reasons. The most traditional: the failure of the gasket GBC, the CBC warning as a result of the engine overheating unnoticed by you, or initially incorrectly tightened cylinder head bolts. If you did "Kapitalku" on the car service.
How the cylinder block bolts are held
With learning. It is from the study of the repair manual for your car, preferably original. It is there that the manufacturer specifies everything that is necessary for tightening the GBC. And you need to know:
- order (diagram) of tightening bolts of the head of the cylinder block;
- what is the moment of tightening force
- what bolts are used for tightening the GBC.
Bolts for tightening the head of the cylinder block - the conversation is special. The fact is that in modern engines For GBC, bolts with special characteristics are used. The so-called "spring" bolts, which, thanks to their properties after the initial broach, do not need additional.
Moreover, when trying to make the cylinder head broach bolts, by virtue of the "fluidity" of the metal, they will be pulled out. As a result, you can get a bolt break.
During repair GBC You need to put gaskets that do not give shrinkage. This eliminates the need to pull the cylinder head bolts.
But, if you have decided that broaching bolts of the head of the cylinder block are extremely necessary for you, then it should be done with the "manual" from the manufacturer and with the help of a dynamometer key. Movement in motion, digit into numbers. Amateurity from the calculation "Prointer" is not needed here.
Control of tightening GBC.
So that your soul is calm, and since you will soon decide to draw the head bolts, then there is a method of controlling the moment of tightening bolts of the GBC. Naturally, with a dynamometric key.
A moment is applied to the bolt, equal to the moment of stroking the bolt. After the start of the turn, you need to control the moment of the stroke. If he did not increase, it means everything is in order, the bolt began to stretch.
If the moment begins to grow, it means that the bolt does not reach the yield strength. Here you need to tighten the GBC bolt until the torque is stabilized.
When monitoring the tightening of the bolts of the cylinder block head, pay attention to two features. If a moment is attached to the bolt in 20 kgsm, but the momentum is not achieved, then the bolt is replaced, as it has increased strength.
If at the time of tightening the bolt, you saw that the moment decreases, this means the destruction of the bolt, and it uniquely requires replacement.
Such requirements for the cylinder head bolts are simply explained: they work in constant mode heating - cooling.
Good luck to you and let the tightening of the cylinder head bolts with their own hands, will be successful.
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