How to make a battery charger. Homemade Charger for Car Battery: Schemes, Instructions How to make Charger 12B

Charger (I memory) for the battery is necessary to each motorist, but it is worth it a lot, and regular preventive trips to the car service does not exit. Battery maintenance in a hundred requires time and money. In addition, on the discharged battery before the service still needs to be reached. Collect your own hands a workable charger for car battery With their own hands, everyone who knows how to use the soldering iron.

Little battery theory

Any battery (AKB) - Drive electrical Energy. When the voltage is applied to it, the energy accumulates, thanks to chemical changes inside the battery. When the consumer is connected, the opposite process takes place: the reverse chemical change creates a voltage on the terminals of the device, the current flows through the load. Thus, to get a voltage from the battery, it first needs to be "put", i.e. to charge the battery.

Almost any car has its own generator, which, when the engine running, provides power supply to the on-board equipment and charges the battery, replete energy spent on the motor start. But in some cases (frequent or heavy launch of the engine, short trips, etc.) the battery energy does not have time to recover, the battery is gradually discharged. Exit from the created position one is charging an external charger.

How to find out the condition of the battery

To make a decision on the need for charging, you need to determine which state is the ACB. The easiest option is "twist / not twist" - at the same time is unsuccessful. If the battery "does not twist", for example, in the morning in the garage, then you will not go anywhere at all. The state "does not twist" is critical, and the consequences for the battery can be sad.

Optimal and reliable status check method rechargeable battery - measurement of voltage on it is a conventional tester. At air temperature of about 20 degrees degree of charging degree On the terminals disconnected from the load (!) The battery is as follows:

• 12.6 ... 12.7 V - fully charged;
• 12.3 ... 12.4 in - 75%;
• 12.0 ... 12.1 B - 50%;
• 11.8 ... 11.9 in - 25%;
• 11.6 ... 11.7 V - discharged;
• below 11.6 V - deep discharge.

It should be noted that the voltage is 10.6 volts - critical. If it drops below, then the "car battery" (especially non-listening) fails.

Proper charging

There are two charging methods automotive battery - constant voltage and direct current. Everyone has their own features and disadvantages:

Homemade charging for batteries

Collect your own hand charger for the car battery is real and not particularly difficult. To do this, you need to have initial knowledge of electrical engineering and be able to keep a soldering iron in your hands.

Simple device for 6 and 12 V

Such a scheme is the most elementary and budget. With this memory, you can qualitatively charge any lead battery with an operating voltage of 12 or 6 V and an electrical capacity from 10 to 120 a / h.

The device consists of a lowering transformer T1 and a powerful rectifier collected on diodes VD2-VD5. Installation charging Tok. It is performed by the S2-S5 switches, with which the C1-C4 capacitors are connected to the power winding circuit of the primary winding of the transformer. Due to the multiple "weight" of each switch, various combinations allow stepwise to adjust the charging current in the range of 1-15 A with increments of 1 A. This is sufficient to select the optimal charging current.

For example, if a current of 5 A is required, then you will need to enable S4 and S2 tumbler. The closed S5, S3 and S2 will be given in the amount of 11 A. to control the voltage on the battery serves the PU1 voltmeter, followed by the charging current using the PA1 ammeter.

In the design you can use any power transformer with a capacity of about 300 W, including homemade. It should produce voltage 22-24 at the secondary winding at a current to 10-15 A.. In place VD2-VD5, any rectifier diodes, withstanding direct current of at least 10 A and the reverse voltage not lower than 40 V. are suitable for D214 or D242. They should be installed through insulating gaskets on the radiator with an area of \u200b\u200bscattering at least 300 cm.

C2-C5 capacitors must necessarily be non-polar paper with an operating voltage not lower than 300 V. Suitable, for example, MBCH, KBG-MN, MBGO, IBD, IBM, IBGC. Such capacitors having the shape of cubes were widely used as phase shifting for electromotors of household appliances. As PU1, a DC voltmeter of the M5-2 type with a measurement limit of 30 V. PA1 is an ammeter of the same type with a measurement limit of 30 A.

The scheme is simple, if you collect it out of serviceable parts, it does not need it in establishing. This device is suitable for charging scest batteries, but the "weight" of each of the S2-S5 switches will be different. Therefore, to navigate in the charging currents will have to ammeter.

With smooth adjustment current

According to this scheme, collect the charger for the battery of the car with your own hands is more difficult, but it is possible in repetition and also does not contain scarce details. With it, it is permissible to charge 12-volt batteries with a capacity of up to 120 a / h, the charge current is smoothly adjustable.

Charging the battery is performed by a pulse current, a thyristor is used as an adjusting element. In addition to the smooth adjustment knob, this design has a mode switch, when the charging current is turned on twice.

Charging mode is monitored visually by the direction of RA1. R1 resistor homemade, made of nichrome or copper wire with a diameter of at least 0.8 mm. It serves as a current limiter. Lamp EL1 - indicator. In its place, any small-sized indicator lamp with a voltage of 24-36 V.

A lowering transformer can be applied with an output voltage along the secondary winding 18-24 at a current to 15 A. If the appropriate device did not turn out at hand, it can be done from any network transformer with a power of 250-300 W. To do this, with a transformer, all windings are clarified, except for the network, and wind one secondary winding with any insulated wire with a cross section of 6 mm. sq. The number of turns in the winding is 42.

Thyristor VD2 can be any of the KU202 series with letters inn. It is installed on the radiator with an area of \u200b\u200bdissipation of at least 200 cm. Power installation of the device is made by wires of minimal length and with a cross section of at least 4 mm. sq. In place VD1, any rectifying diode with a reverse voltage is not lower than 20 V and withstand current of at least 200 mA.

The device is established to calibrate the ammeter RA1. You can do this by connecting several 12-volt lamps with a total capacity of up to 250 W, controlling the current according to a well-serviceable reference ammeter.

From a computer unit

To assemble this simple charger with your own hands, you will need a regular power supply from the old ATH computer and knowledge of radio engineering. But but the characteristics of the device will be decent. With it, they charge the battery to 10 A, adjusting the current and the charge voltage. The only condition - the BP is desirable on the TL494 controller.

For creating automotive charging do it yourself from the power supply of the computer We will have to collect the scheme shown in the figure.

Step-by-step necessary for the revision of the operation Will look like this:

1. Bite all the wires of the power tires, with the exception of yellow and black.
2. To combine the yellow and separate black wires among themselves - it will be, respectively, "+" and "-" memory (see scheme).
3. Out all the tracks leading to the conclusions 1, 14, 15 and 16 of the TL494 controller.
4. Install the variables of the resistors with a nominal value of 10 and 4.4 kΩ on the cover of BP - these are the voltage adjustment organs and charging current, respectively.
5. Attachment to assemble the scheme shown in the figure above.

If the installation is performed correctly, then the improvement is completed. It remains to equip a new voice with a voltmeter, an ammeter and wires with "crocodiles" to connect to the battery.

In the design it is possible to use any variables and permanent resistors, in addition to the current (bottom according to the scheme with a face value of 0.1 Ohm). Its dissipated power is at least 10 W. You can make this resistor yourself from the nichrome or copper wire of the appropriate length, but really find and ready, for example, the shunt from the Chinese digital tester by 10 A or the C5-16MV resistor. Another option is two 5WR2J resistors turned on in parallel. Such resistors are in pulsed power supplies PC or TVs.

What you need to know when charging the battery

Chargeing a car battery, it is important to observe a number of rules. It will help you extend battery life and save your health:

The question of creating a simple charger for the battery with your own hands is clarified. Everything is simple enough, it remains to stock necessary tool And you can safely begin work.

Very often, especially in the cold season, motorists are faced with the need to charge the car battery. It is possible, and it is desirable to purchase the factory charger, better charging and starting for use in the garage.

But if you have electrical work skills, certain knowledge in the field of radio engineering, you can make a simple charger for a car battery with your own hands. In addition, it is better to prepare in advance for a possible occasion when the battery suddenly discharged away from home or place of parking and maintenance.

General information about the charging process

The charge of the automotive battery is required when the voltage drops on the terminals less than 11.2 volts. Despite the fact that the battery can start the car engine and with such a charge, during a long parking lot under reduced voltages, the processes of plates sulfate are started, which lead to the loss of battery capacity.

Therefore, during the wintering of the car in the parking lot or in the garage, it is necessary to constantly carry out the recharge of the battery, follow the voltage on its terminals. More the best way - Remove the battery, put into a warm place, but still do not forget about maintaining his charge.

The battery charge is carried out permanent or pulse current. In the case of charging, a charge current equal to one tenth of the battery is usually selected from the source of a constant voltage.

For example, if the battery capacity is 60 amps hours, the charge current should be selected 6 amps. However, studies show that, the smaller the charge current, the least intensively go sulfation processes.

Moreover, there are methods of desulfation of the battery plates. They are as follows. First, the battery is discharged to a voltage of 3-5 volts with large currents of low duration. For example, such as when the starter is turned on. Then there is a slow full charge of about 1 amp. Such procedures are repeated 7-10 times. The effect of desulfation from these actions is.

Almost at this principle, desulfatizing pulse chargers are based. Akb in such devices is charged with a pulse current. During the period of charging (several milliseconds) on the battery terminals, a discharge short pulse of reverse polarity and a longer charging straight polarity are supplied.

It is very important in the process of charge to prevent the effect of reloading the battery, that is, the point when it charges to the limit voltage (12.8 - 13.2 volts, depending on the type of AKB).

This can cause, increasing the density and concentration of electrolyte, irreversible destruction of the plates. That is why factory chargers are equipped with an electronic control and shutdown system.

Schemes of homemade simple chargers for car battery

Simplest

Consider the case of how to charge the battery with screwdrivers. For example, the situation when you left the car near the house, forgetting to turn off some electrical equipment. By the morning the battery was discharged and does not start the car.

In this case, if your car starts well (from the floor turn), the battery is slightly "tightening." How to do it? First, a source of constant voltage is required ranging from 12 to 25 volts. Secondly, restrictive resistance.

What can you advise?

Now almost every house has a laptop. A laptop or netbook power supply, as a rule, has an output voltage of 19 volts, current at least 2 amps. The external withdrawal of the power connector is minus, internal - plus.

As a restrictive resistance, and it is obligatory!!!, you can use the cabin light bulb of the car. You can, of course, more powerful from turn signals or worse than stops or dimensions, but there is a possibility of overloading the power supply. The simplest scheme is assembled: minus power supply - light bulb - minus battery - plus akb - plus power supply. In a couple of hours, the battery will recharge so much that the engine will be able to run.

If there is no laptop, you can buy a powerful rectifier diode with a reverse voltage of more than 1000 volts in advance with a reverse voltage and a current of 3 amps. It has small sizes, you can put in the glove box for an emergency.

What to do in an emergency?

You can use conventional lamps as a restrictive load. incandescent by 220. Volt. For example, a 100 watt lamp (power \u003d voltage X current). Thus, when using a 100 watt lamp, the charge current will be about 0.5 amps. A little bit, but during the night he will give 5 amps-hours of capacity to the battery. It is usually enough to scroll the car in the morning a couple of times.

If you connect to parallel, three lamps of 100 watts charge current will increase three times. You can almost post the car battery overnight. Sometimes instead of lamps include an electric stitch. But here it can already fail the diode, and at the same time and the battery.

In general, this kind of experiments with a direct charge of the battery from the AC voltage network 220 volts extremely dangerous. They should only be used in extreme cases when there is no other output.

From computer power supplies

Before you begin making your own hand charger for a car battery, you should evaluate your knowledge and experience in the field of electrical and radio engineering. In accordance with this, choose the level of complexity of the device.

First of all, you should decide on the element base. Very often, the users of computers remain old system blocks. There are power supplies. Along with the supply voltage + 5V, there is a tire +12 volt. As a rule, it is designed for current up to 2 amps. This is quite enough for the intimid charger.

Video - step-by-step instruction For the manufacture and diagram of a simple charger for a car battery from a computer unit:

That's just 12 volt voltages are not enough. It is necessary to "dispel" to 15. How? Usually by the "Tyka" method. Take resistance about 1 kiloma and connect parallel to other resistances near the chips with 8-legs in the secondary circuit of the power supply circuit.

Thus, the coefficient of transmission of the feedback circuit is changed, respectively, the output voltage.

It is difficult to explain in words, but usually users do it. The selection of the resistance value can be achieved voltage at the output of about 13.5 volts. It is enough to charge the car battery.

If there is no power supply at hand, you can search the transformer with a secondary winding by 12 - 18 volts. They were used in old tube televisions and other appliances.

Now such transformers can be found in the exhaust sources of uninterrupted nutrition, it is possible to buy it for a penny secondary market. Next, proceed to the manufacture of a transformer charger.

Transformer zoom

Transformer charging devices are the most common and safe devices, widely used in motorist practices.

Video is a simple charger for a car battery using a transformer:

The simplest transformer charger diagram for the automotive battery comprises:

• network transformer;
• rectifier bridge;
• restrictive load.

A high current flows through the restrictive load, it is strongly heated, therefore, condensers in the primary transformer circuit often use to limit the charging current.

In principle, in such a scheme you can do without a transformer if you correctly pick up the condenser. But without electroplating junction with an AC network, such a scheme will be dangerous from the point of view of electric shock.

More practical schemes for chargers for automotive batteries with adjustment and lifting current of charge. One of these schemes is shown in the picture:

As a powerful rectifier diodes, you can use the rectifying bridge of a faulty car generator, slightly rebuitating the scheme.

More complex pulse chargers with desulfation function are usually made using chip, even microprocessors. They are complex in manufacturing, require special installation and setup skills. In this case, it is easier to acquire the factory device.

Safety requirements

Conditions that should be performed when using a self-made charger for a car battery:

• charger and battery at the time of charging must be located on a non-splash surface;
• in the case of the use of the simplest chargers, it is necessary to use individual means of protection (insulating gloves, rubber rug);
• during the use of newly manufactured devices, constant control of the charging process is required;
• the main controlled parameters of the charging process - current, voltage on the terminals of the battery, the temperature of the charger body and the battery, the booster point control;
• when charging at night, you need to have a protective shutdown device (RCO) in the network connection.

Video - Charger Chart for Car Battery from UPS:

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Comments on the article:

Lyok.

The information presented here is of course curious and informative. I, as a former radio engineering of the Soviet school, read with great interest. But in reality, even the "desperate" radio amateurs are unlikely to bother with searching for self-made charger schemes and later collect it with a soldering iron and radio components. Only fanatics radio amateurs will go on it. It is much easier to buy a factory apparatus, especially prices, I think available. In the extreme case, you can contact other motorists with a request to "see", good, now cars everywhere is full. Its written here is useful not so much practical value (although this is also), how much the vaccination of interest in radio engineering as a whole. After all, most modern children are not something that distinguish the resistor from the transistor cannot, and they will not speak from the first time. And it is very sad ...

Michael

When the battery was old and half-hearted, it was often used a laptop power supply for recharging. As a current programmer used an unnecessary old rear lamp with four bulbs of 21 watts included in parallel. The voltage on the terminals is controlling, at the beginning of charging usually approximately 13 V, the battery eagerly eats a charge, then the charge voltage increases, and when it comes to 15 V, stopping charging. Grabs half an hour to confidently start the engine.

Ignat

In my garage, the Soviet charger, the "wave" is called, the 79th year of release. Inside a hefty and heavy transformer and several diodes, resistors and transistors. Almost 40 years in the ranks and this is despite the fact that it is with his father and brother constantly and not only for charging, but as a power supply in 12 V. And now it is really easier to buy a cheap Chinese device for five acres, than bother with soldering iron. And even on Aliexpress it is even possible to buy hundreds for half a half, to forward the truth for a long time. Although I liked the option from the power supply of the computer, I just have a dozen lying in the garage of old, but quite workers.

San Sanych

Mda. Of course, the peptic generation is growing ...: - \\ The correct charger should produce 14.2 volts. No more and no less. With a greater difference in the potentials, the electrolyte will boil, and the battery will decide that it will then be problematic to pull out or, on the contrary, cannot be installed back to the car. With a smaller difference in charge potentials, the battery will not be. The normal circuit of the material presented in the material is with a downstream transformer (first). In this case, the transformer must produce exactly 10 volts at a current of at least 2 amps. These are on sale in bulk. The diodes are better to put domestic, d246a (it is necessary to put on the radiator with insulators from mica). At worst - CD213A (these can be glued to superciles to the aluminum radiator). A condenser by any electrolytic capacity of at least 1000 μF per working voltage of at least 25 volts. A very large capacitor also does not need nafig, since due to the pulsations of the under-stamped voltage, we get the optimal charge for the battery. Total we get 10 * root out of 2 \u003d 14.2 volts. At the very charger, since the time of 412 Moskvich. Not killed at all. 🙂

Kirill

In principle, in the presence of the desired transformer, it is not difficult to collect a transformer charger diagram of the transformer charger. Even for me, not much a large specialist in promoting electronics. Many say, they say why to fool, if it is easier to buy. I agree, but then it's not end result, and the process itself, because it is much more pleasant to use the thing manufactured own handsthan bought. And most importantly, if this homemade comes out of standing, then the one who collected it knows his charge for the battery is thoroughly and can fix quickly. And if the purchase of a purchase product is burning, then it is still not a fact that the breakage will be found at all. I vote for your own assembly device!

Oleg

In general, I think that the ideal option is a charger of industrial production, so I have it and I hide in the trunk constantly. But in the life of the situation is different. Somehow was visiting the daughter in Montenegro, and there they do nothing with them and even rarely who has anything. So she forgot to close the door on the night. Battery discharged. No diode at hand, nor comp. I found a screwdriver Boshevsky for 18 volts and 1 ampere current. Here is his charging and used. True charged all night and periodically touched overheating. But I was withstanding anything in the morning with a pollinka. So there are many options, you need to search. Well, about homemade charging, as a radio engineer, I can only advise transformer, i.e. Unleasted over the network, they are safe compared to condenser, diode with a light bulb.

Sergey

Charging the battery with non-standard devices can lead or to complete irretrievable wear, or to a decrease in guaranteed operation. The whole problem is to connect homemade, which would nominal voltage exceeding the permissible. It is necessary to take into account the temperature differences and this is a very important point, especially in the winter. When decreasing on degrees, we increase and vice versa. There is an exemplary table depending on the type of battery - it is not difficult to remember it. Another important point is all stress measurements and naturally densities are made only on the cold, on a non-working engine.

Vitalik

In general, I use the charger extremely rarely, it can every two or three years, and when I leave for a long time, for example in the summer for a couple of months south to relatives. And so mostly the car is almost daily in operation, the battery is charged and there is no need for such devices. According to this, I think that buying for money what is practically not using it is not too smart. Optimal option - Assemble such a simple craft, let's say from a computer unit of the power supply, and the launching is lying waiting for your o'clock. After all, here it is fundamentally not to charge the battery completely, but a little to cheer it up for a motor start, and then the generator will make his job.

Nikolai

Just yesterday they recharge the battery from the charger for the screwdriver. The car stood on the street, frost -28, the battery twisted a couple of times and got up. They got a screwdriver, a couple of wires, connected and after half an hour, the car began to safely.

Dmitriy

The finished store charger is of course the perfect option, well, who wants to make your hands, yes, given that it is not often used to use it, then you can not spend money on the purchase and make charging yourself.
The homemade charger should be autonomously, do not require supervision, current control, as I charge most often at night. In addition, it should provide a voltage of 14.4 V and to ensure the disabling of the battery when the current is exceeded and the voltage above the norm. Also should provide protection against cords.
Basic errors that make "Kulibins" - this is a connection directly to the household power grid, this is not an error even a security violation, the following charge current limitation, and more expensive: one battery of capacitors 32 μF 350-400 B (less) will cost as a cool branded charger.
The easiest way to use a computer pulse power supply (UPS), it is now more accessible to the transformer on the gland, and it is not necessary to do separate protection, everything is ready.
If there is no computer power supply unit, you need to search for a transformer. It is suitable for powerful windings from old tube TVs - TS-130, TS-180, TS-220, TS-270. The power of their eyes with an excess. You can find the old tall transformer on the car market.
But all this is only for those who are friends with the electrician. If not bother - you will not charge the responsible to all requirements, so buying ready and do not waste time.

Laura

I got from my grandfather charger. From Soviet times. Homemade. I don't understand this at all, but familiar seeing him delightedly and respectfully zokat, they say, this is the thing "on the century." They say on some lamps are collected and still works. True, I practically do not use it, but not in this case. All Soviet technique scold, and it is more reliable, even self-made.

Vladislav.

In general, the useful thing in the farm, especially if there is an output voltage adjustment function

Alexei

Neither use nor collect homemade charging somehow did not communicate, but the principle of assembly and work quite imagine. I think, self-smoking is no worse than factory, just no one wants to mess around, especially prices for the store quite affordable.

Victor

In general, the schemes are simple, details are few and they are available. The adjustment in the presence of some experience is also really done. So it is quite possible to collect. Of course, it is very pleasant to use the device collected by your own hands)).

Ivan.

The charger, of course, is useful, but now there are copies on the market more interesting - the name of them are commissioning devices

Sergey

Charger schemes are very much and I as a radio engineer tried many of them. Until last year, I worked for a scheme since Soviet times and she worked fine. But one day I have (for my fault) in the garage died completely battery and needed cyclic mode to restore it. Then I did not bother (due to the shortage of time) with the creation of a new scheme, but just went and bought. And now I drive charging in the trunk just in case.

Each motorist is sooner or later there are problems with the battery. I did not escape this fate and me. After 10 minutes of unsuccessful attempts to start your car, I decided to acquire or make the charger itself. In the evening, making an audit in the garage and finding a suitable transformer there decided to charge himself.

There, among unnecessary junk, there was a voltage stabilizer from an old TV, which in my opinion is wonderfully suitable as a hull.

Having shifted the endless spaces of the Internet and really appreciating my strength chose probably the most simple schema.

Printing the scheme went to a neighbor who is fond of radio electronics. For 15 minutes I scored the necessary details for me, cut off a piece of foil textolite and gave a marker for drawing boards. Having spent around the hour of time, I painted an acceptable fee (installation of the spacious size of the hull allow). How to streak a fee to tell me, about this a lot of information. I took my creation to my neighbor, and he prohibited her. In principle, you could buy a circuit board and do everything on it, but as they say to a gift horse ....
Drilling all the necessary holes and withdrawing to the monitor screen of the transistors, I took the soldering iron and after about an hour I had a ready-made fee.

Diode bridge can be bought on the market, the main thing is that it is designed for current at least 10 amps. I found diodes D 242. Their characteristics are quite suitable, and on a piece of textolite I saved the diode bridge.

Thyristor must be installed on the radiator, since when working it is noticeably heated.

Separately, I must say about the ammeter. He had to buy in the store, there the seller consultant picked up and the shunt. The scheme decided to modify a little and add the switch so that the voltage can be measured on the battery. Here, too, it took a shunt, but when measuring the voltage it is not connected in parallel, but in sequence. The calculation formula can be found on the Internet, it will be added from myself that the power dissipation of the shunt resistors is of great importance. According to my calculations, she had to be 2.25 watts, but I got a 4 watt shunt. The reason for me is unknown, there is not enough experience in such matters, but by deciding that I basically need an ammeter reading, and not a voltmeter, I followed. Moreover, in the voltmeter mode, the shunt was noticeably heated for 30-40 seconds. So, by collecting everything you need and checking everything on a stool, I took the case. Fully disassembled the stabilizer, I took all his stuffing.

By placing the front wall, I drilled holes for an alternating resistor and the switch, then the drill of the small diameter around the circle drilled the holes under the ammeter. Sharp edges frustrated with a file.

A little bit of her head over the location of the transformer and the radiator with a thyristor, stopped at this option.

I bought a couple more crocodile clamps and all-charging is ready. A feature of this scheme is that it works only under load, so collecting the device and not finding the voltages at the outputs voltmeter do not rush me to scold. Just hang on the conclusions at least a car light bulb, and you will be happy.

Take a transformer with a voltage on the secondary winding of 20-24 volts. Stabilitron D 814. All other elements are indicated in the diagram.

Many motorists know perfectly well that to extend the battery life of the battery, it is required periodic precisely from the charger, and not from the car generator.

And the more battery life, the more often it needs to be charged to restore the charge.

Without chargers can not do

To perform this operation, as already noted, chargers running from a network of 220 V such devices on automotive market Very much, they can have various useful additional features.

However, they all perform one work - convert the alternating voltage of 220 V per constant - 13.8-14.4 V.

In some models, the strength of the current when charging is adjustable manually, but there are also models with automatic work.

Of all the shortcomings of purchased charging devices, you can mark their highest cost, and the device, the device, the price on it above.

But for many at hand there are a large number of electrical appliances, composite parts of which can be suitable for creating a homemade charger.

Yes, the homemade device will not look as presented as purchased, but its task is to charge the battery, and not "turn" on the shelf.

One of the most important conditions when creating a charger is at least the initial knowledge of electrical engineering and radio electronics, as well as the ability to hold a soldering iron and be able to use it correctly.

Pole from a lamp television

The first will be the scheme, perhaps the most simplest, and practically any car enthusiast can cope with her.

For the manufacture of the simplest charger, you need only two components - a transformer and rectifier.

The main condition that the charger should correspond - is the current force at the outlet from the instrument should be 10% of the battery capacity.

That is, often on passenger cars The battery is used by 60 Ah, based on this, at the outlet of the device, the current of the current should be at 6 A. The voltage is 13.8-14.2 V.

If someone has an old unnecessary lamp Soviet TV, then a better transformer than from it not to find.

Schematic scheme The charger from the TV has this kind.

Often, TS-180 transformer was installed on such TVs. The feature of it was the presence of two secondary windings, 6.4 V and current power of 4.7 A. The primary winding also consists of two parts.

Initially, you will need to perform a sequential connection of the windings. The convenience of work with such a transformer is that each of the conclusions of the winding has its own designation.

For a serial connection of the secondary winding, it is necessary to combine the conclusions 9 and 9 \\ '.

And to the conclusions 10 and 10 \\ '- solder two segments of the copper wire. All wires that are soldered to the conclusions must have a cross section of at least 2.5 mm. sq.

As for the primary winding, it is necessary to connect the conclusions 1 and 1 \\ 'to serial compound. Wires with a fork for connecting to the network you need to solder to the conclusions 2 and 2 \\ '. This with a transformer work completed.

The diagram indicates how diodes should be connected - the wires from the conclusions 10 and 10 \\ 'are sold to the diode bridge, and the wires that will go to the battery.

Do not forget about the fuses. One of them is recommended to be installed on the "plus" withdraw from a diode bridge. This fuse should be designed for current not more than 10 A. The second fuse (0.5 A) must be installed on the output 2 of the transformer.

Before you start charging, it is better to check the performance of the device and check its output parameters using an ammeter and a voltmeter.

Sometimes it happens that the current is somewhat larger than is required, so some in the chain install a 12-volt incandescent lamp with a power of 21 to 60 watts. This lamp "takes" over the strength of the current.

Microwave stove

Some motorists use a transformer from a broken microwave oven. But this transformer will need to redo, since it is an increase, and not downward.

It is not necessary that the transformer is working, since it is often combined by the secondary winding, which in the process of creating the device will still have to be deleted.

The alteration of the transformer is reduced to the complete removal of the secondary winding, and the winding is new.

As a new winding, an insulated wire with a cross section of at least 2.0 mm is used. sq.

When winding, you need to decide on the number of turns. It can be done experimentally - to wind on the core of 10 turns of the new wire, after which it is to connect a voltmeter to its ends and power to the transformer.

According to the voltmeter readings, it is determined which voltage at the output provides these 10 turns.

For example, measurements showed that there are 2.0 V. at the output, it means, 12V at the output will provide 60 turns, and 13 V - 65 turns. As you understood, 5 turns add 1 volt.

It is worth indicating that the assembly of such a charger is better to produce qualitatively, then all components are placed in the housing, which can be made of girlfriend. Or mount on the basis.

Be sure to mark where the "plus" wire, and where is the "minus" so as not to "surpasses", and do not fail the device.

Power from the ATX Power Block (for prepared)

A more complex scheme has a charger made from a computer power supply.

For the manufacture of the device, blocks with a capacity of at least 200 watts AT or ATH models, which are controlled by the TL494 or K7500 controller are suitable. It is important that the power supply is fully fulfilled. The ST-230WHF model from old PCs was not bad.

The fragment of the scheme of such a charger is presented below, and we will work.

In addition to the power supply, the regulator potentiometer is also required, a stroke resistor by 27 com, two resistors with a capacity of 5 W (5WR2J) and a 0.2 ohm resistance or one C5-16MV.

The initial stage of the work comes down to the disconnection of the entire unnecessary, which are "-5 V", "+5 V", "-12 in" and "+12 V".

The resistor specified in the diagram as R1 (it provides the supply of the voltage +5 V to the output 1 of the TL494 controller) you need to fall, and in its place a prepared trimmed resistor on 27 com. To the top withdrawal of this resistor you need to tire +12 V.

The output of the 16 controller should be disconnected from the general wire, and it is also necessary to cut the connections of the conclusions 14 and 15.

In the rear wall of the power supply housing, you need to install a potentiometer-controller (on the diagram - R10). It is necessary to install it on the insulating plate so that it does not touch the block body.

Through this wall, you should also display wiring to connect to the network, as well as the wires for connecting the battery.

To ensure the convenience of adjusting the device from the available two resistors by 5 W on a separate board, it is necessary to make a block of resistors connected in parallel, which will provide 10 W with a resistance of 0.1 Ohm.

Then you should check the correctness of the connection of all conclusions and the efficiency of the device.

Final work Before completing the assembly is to calibrate the device.

To do this, the potentiometer handle should be installed in the middle position. After that, on the trimming resistor should be set voltage idle move at the level of 13.8-14,2 V.

If everything is correctly performed, then at the beginning of charging the battery, the voltage of 12.4 V with a current of 5.5 A. will be supplied to it.

As the battery is charging, the voltage will increase to the value installed on the trimming resistor. As soon as the voltages reach this value, the current will begin to decline.

If all the operating parameters converge and the device works normally, it remains only to close the housing to prevent damage to the internal elements.

This device from the ATC unit is very convenient, since when the full charge of the battery is achieved, it will automatically go into voltage stabilization mode. That is, the recharge of the battery is completely excluded.

For convenience, you can additionally equip the device with a voltmeter and an ammeter.

Outcome

These are only a few types of charging devices that can be made at home from undergraduated means, although their options are much larger.

This is especially true of charging devices that are made of computer power supplies.

If you have experience in the manufacture of such devices share them in the comments, many will be very grateful for it.

The need to charge the battery occurs in many motorists. Some for these purposes use branded chargers, others enjoy homemade gland, manufactured at home. How to do and how to charge the battery such a device? We will tell about this below.

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Design and principle of work

A simple charger for is a device used to recover battery charge. The essence of the functioning of any stroke is that this device allows you to convert voltage from a household network 220 volts to the voltage required for. To date, there are many types of memory, but at the heart of any device lies two main components - this is a transformer device, as well as a rectifier (author of the video on how to choose an instrument for charging, the battery canal).

The process itself consists of several stages:

• when charging the battery, the charging current parameter decreases, and the resistance level increases;
• at that moment, when the voltage parameter is approaching 12 volts, the charging current level comes to zero - at this moment the battery charges completely, and the memory can be turned off.

Instructions for making a simple memory with their own hands

If you want to make a charger for a car battery by 12 or 6 volts, then we can help you with this. Of course, if you have never come across such a necessity before, but you want to get a functional device, it is better to purchase an automatic purchase. After all, the homemade charger for the car battery will not have such functions as the branded device.

Tools and materials

So, to make a battery charger with your own hands, you will need these items:

• soldering iron with consumables;
• textolite plate;
• wire with a fork for connecting to the household network;
• radiator from computer.

Depending on, an additionally can be used ammeter and other components that allow you to correctly charge and control the charge. Of course, to make a car charger, you also need to prepare a transformer node and a rectifier for charging the battery. By the way, the hull itself can be taken from the old ammeter. The ammeter housing has several holes to which you can connect the desired items. If you do not have an ammeter, you can find something similar.

Photo gallery "Preparing for the assembly"

Stages

To build a charger for a car battery with your own hands, do the following:

1. So, you first need to work with a transformer. We will show an example of making a self-made zoom with a TC-180-2 transformer device - such a device can be removed from the old tube TV. Such devices are equipped with two windings - primary and secondary, and at the output of each secondary component, the current is 4.7 amps, and the voltage is 6.4 volts. Accordingly, the homemade memory will issue 12.8 volts, but for this, the winding must be connected by a sequential way.
2. To connect the windings, you will need a cable, the cross section of which will be less than 2.5 mm2.
3. Using a jumper, you need to connect both secondary and primary components.
4. You will then need a diode bridge, take four diode elements for its arrangement, each of which should be designed to work under current conditions at least 10 amps.
5. The diodes are fixed on the textolite plate, after which they will need to connect correctly.
6. Cables are connected to the output diode components, with which the homemade zoom will be connected to the battery. To measure the voltage level, you can additionally use the electromagnetic head, but if this parameter does not interest you, the installation of an ammeretter designed for permanent current. By completing these actions, the charger will be prepared with your own hands (author of the video about the manufacture of the simplest instrument in the design of the device is a TV soldering iron TV).

How to charge acb self-made charger?

Now you know how to make a charger for your car at home. But how to use it correctly, so that this does not affect the resource of the charged battery?

1. When connected, the polarity always needs to be observed so as not to confuse the terminals. If you allow an error and confuse the terminal, from simply "kill" the battery. So always the plus wire from the memory is connected to the plus of the battery, and negative to minus.
2. Never try to check the battery on the spark - despite the fact that there are many recommendations on the Internet regarding this, to slow down the wires in no case. This will negatively affect the work of the memory itself and the Akb itself in the future.
3. When the device connects to the battery, it must be disconnected from the network. The same applies to its disconnection.
4. In the manufacture and assembly of the memory, and during its use, always be careful. To not be injured, always follow safety, in particular, working with electrical components. In the event that errors will be made during the manufacture, it may cause not only human injury, but also failure of the AKB in general.
5. Never leave a working memory unattended - you need to understand that this is a homemade device and in its work can happen anything. When charging the device with the battery must be in a ventilated room, as far as possible from explosive materials.

Video "Example of build a homemade zone with your own hands"

The video below shows an example of the build of a homemade memory for a car battery in a more complex scheme with basic recommendations and tips (the author of the movie - Aka Kasyan Channel).