The car won't start - the starter turns. Where to dig

07.10.2021

Car owners are faced with a situation in which, after turning the key in the ignition, the starter does not turn, but only clicks, and the car does not start. However, there is another situation: the starter turns (this can be heard by a characteristic buzz), but the car still does not start. What to do in such a situation?

If the starter turns, but the engine does not start, first of all you should check the power supply and ignition system.

Please note that all these checks should only be performed when the starter turns smoothly without jerking. Otherwise (jerks when the starter operates or clicks instead of the usual buzzing), the problem should be looked for, first of all, in the starter itself.

Check fuel system should be performed sequentially - from fuel pump to the injector (carburetor):

If you have an injector, then when you turn on the ignition, you should hear the buzzing of an electric fuel pump in the cabin. If there is no buzzing, it means either the fuel pump motor is burnt out or there is no voltage to it. Therefore, it is necessary to check the fuel pump itself, as well as its fuse.
With carburetor cars, everything is a little more complicated: the fuel pump is driven by camshaft, so to check you will have to remove the end of the hose from the carburetor inlet fitting or the fuel pump outlet fitting. If you pump the manual pump lever several times, gasoline should come out of the fitting or hose.
To check the presence of gasoline in the injector rail, you need to press the valve of the fitting for connecting the pump: gasoline should come from there.
Be sure to check if it is clogged fuel filter. Perhaps the engine simply does not have enough fuel, so it does not start.
Another reason why the starter turns but the car does not start is a clogged throttle valve.

After completing all the steps described above, you can try to start the car again. If the starter still turns, but the car does not start, then you need to move on to checking the ignition system.

First you need to unscrew the spark plug and check for a spark. To do this, you need to put it on the switched off candle high voltage wire, touch the spark plug skirt to the metal part of the engine and turn the engine using the starter (you will need an assistant for this). If there is a spark, then the spark plug is working.
If there is no spark injection car, then the problem is in the ignition module.
If there is no spark in a carburetor engine, then you should check the ignition coil. Pull out the central wire from the distributor cover, place its end 5 mm from the metal part of the engine (without touching) and ask an assistant to crank the engine with the starter. If there is no spark, the coil is faulty.
If there is a spark and the ignition coil is working properly, you should remove the distributor cover and look for any defects under it (carbon deposits, cracks, etc.).

There are times when all these checks are not enough, and the car owner has to carry out deeper checks to identify the reason that the starter turns but the engine does not start. Reasons why this could be include:

Burnt fuse. This doesn't happen often, but check the integrity fuses It's still in the blocks.
Corrosion on any of the electrical parts.
Condensation under the hood. There have been cases when the car did not start precisely because of excessive moisture under the hood.

Among the many surprises that a car can present to a motorist is a refusal to start the engine. There are many reasons for this misunderstanding. One of them is a starter malfunction.

Also, when the car does not start, the starter does not turn, the reason may lie in some auxiliary systems. The fault may be the battery, problems in the electrical circuits, or a malfunction of the solenoid relay.

Car engine starting mechanism

The car engine starting mechanism is a system that requires special attention and is directly responsible for starting the engine itself.

Modern cars are predominantly equipped with a starter engine starting system. The starting mechanism is directly related to electrical equipment.

The mechanism is powered by direct current car battery. The trigger mechanism includes the following elements.

Connecting wires.
Ignition switch (read also about).
Drive mechanism.
Traction relay.

Causes of starter failure

The engine crankshaft rotates by creating the required starter torque. It's kind of Electrical engine with direct current.

If it turns out that the starter does not turn, it is necessary to determine the cause of the breakdown and understand what exactly malfunctions in the engine starting system are characterized by.

Sometimes the starter does not turn or click due to disconnected peripheral devices. In this case, you also do not need to discharge the battery and start looking for the problem.

Lack of sufficient charge in the battery

When considering the reason why the starter does not respond to turning the ignition key, most often motorists focus on the lack of power. The battery is either disconnected or discharged. If this is really the reason, you won’t get any signs of life from the starter.

If a problem with the battery is confirmed, you need to carefully check the terminals on the battery. Often the lack of power occurs due to an insufficiently strong connection.

Malfunction of the electrical circuit of the ignition system

If the starter does not turn, but checking the battery does not show any malfunctions, you should look for reasons elsewhere. Breaks in the wiring are often to blame for the problem, that is, the electrical wires either spark when the engine starts, or they are completely disconnected from the battery.

Often the same problem occurs due to oxidized terminals. This “disease” is typical for batteries of any model.

Solenoid relay malfunction

In some cases, the starter solenoid relay clicks, but the circuit does not close. Sometimes you can save yourself by closing the contacts, but not always. If a characteristic cracking sound is heard in the engine area, the bendix is likely to break.

Bendix is easy to recognize. It looks like a small gear located on the rotor shaft. When voltage is applied to the bendix, a relay starts to operate, which controls its movement, engaging with the flywheel.

If the bendix is worn, the entire procedure described becomes impossible, since the relationship between the part and the flywheel teeth will not be achieved. The impossibility of this procedure provides the characteristic crunch.

Starter malfunction

Although most often the reason that the starter does not turn is a lack of energy and a lack of charge in the battery, often the reason lies in the engine starting part itself.

In this situation, identifying and eliminating the malfunction will take much more time and effort. Common launcher problems include:

if there is a burning smell or the starter is smoking, it is possible that the winding burned out when shorted;
breakdown of the electrical system of the starting device;
failure of the solenoid relay;
Bendix teeth worn out;
contacts are damaged;
wires burned out.

Usually, when the starter clicks but does not turn, it is sent to a service center for repair, but repair is not always possible. For example, if the cause of the malfunction is a breakdown of the solenoid relay or a malfunction of the bendix, repairing the device is possible. If there is a problem with the electrical system, the starter will probably have to be replaced.

Incorrect alarm operation

How to start a car if the starter does not turn, if everything is in order, the battery is charged, and the wiring is not damaged? There is a possibility of disruptions during operation as a result of malfunctions car alarms and immobilizers.

A characteristic factor of the presence of a problem in the anti-theft device is that the car does not start, the starter does not turn, the relay does not click. Or the car starts, but immediately stalls. The engine does not respond to starting with the key, and does not start with the key fob. If all of these factors, or selectively, are present, then either a complete or partial blockage of the system has occurred.

What can you do?

Any motorist knows about the generator in the car for charging the battery. This special device, which transmits electricity to the battery and on-board system from the motor.

Thanks to this technological process, you can additionally charge the battery. Fully charged batteries in this way is impossible for a number of nuances:

The battery cannot be fully charged during operation because it must be at rest.
This technology allows charging only to start the engine.
The charging process itself is very weak.
When the generator is running, the battery is subject to high load.

Therefore, when the car does not start, the starter does not turn, the relay clicks, you should not really count on charging the battery in this way.

It is much more effective to replenish the battery charge in the standard way, using charger. All energy will be restored in just a few hours, and the battery will be ready for use again.

If the situation is emergency, charging using a charger is still more important. Literally 20 - 30 minutes, and the battery will be partially charged.

If problems are detected with the power supply system, you need to take some actions:

Using a screwdriver with a rubberized handle, unscrew the battery terminals;
take zero-grit sandpaper and thoroughly clean the connecting wires and terminals;
also use sandpaper to clean the contacts on the battery itself;
check the battery charge;
visually evaluate the connecting wiring supplying the starter for integrity;
securely fasten the battery terminals, making sure that they will not become disconnected;

Having carried out all these manipulations, you should turn on the engine and evaluate the operation of the starting system.

If the starter does not turn, the relay clicks and crackles, you need to check the solenoid relay. To do this, voltage should be applied directly from the battery to the control terminal. It's not difficult to recognize her. Usually a thin wire leads to it. If the engine cranks normally, the failure of the solenoid relay will be confirmed.

Most often, burnt contacts are observed in the relay. To eliminate the malfunction, it must be dismantled, the contacts cleaned and reinstalled.

A repaired solenoid relay, by definition, will not last long. The fact is that factory treatment involves applying an erosion-resistant layer to the contact nickels.

Under normal conditions, applying this layer is impossible, so the next contact burnout is possible at any time.

Conclusion

There are many reasons why the car does not start, the starter does not turn, it clicks, etc. Moreover, all these reasons are often in no way connected with each other. The reason why the starter does not turn over can be caused by ordinary aging of the metal, or many other factors, including improper operation.

Often, car owners are faced with a situation where the starter works in its normal mode, but the car refuses to start. Such an unpleasant situation can take you by surprise at the most inopportune moment. To quickly solve this problem, you should familiarize yourself with the main causes of malfunctions of this kind and adopt the most effective methods eliminating them.

Why may the internal combustion engine not start when the starter is working?

Uninterrupted engine starting is the result of the coordinated work of all components and systems serving it. Each of them needs systematic care and diagnostics. However, even if all declared types of maintenance are carried out, no one is immune from failures in their work.

So, problems with starting the engine, provided that the starter is working properly, can be caused by malfunctions:

ignition systems;
power systems;
cylinder-piston group.

Ignition system

According to many experts, most of the malfunctions occur in the ignition system. In the presented case, it is first advisable to check the spark supply. To make sure that the coil produces a spark, you need to remove the central armored wire and bring it to the engine ground. If, when turning the ignition switch to the “st” position, a spark jumps between the wire and ground, everything is in order.

The next step is to check spark formation on the spark plug electrodes. This procedure is practically no different from the previous one. The spark plugs are brought one by one to the ground, and if a stable spark discharge is visible on each of them, then this problem is eliminated.

The gaps on the spark plugs can also cause difficulty starting the engine. If they are higher or lower than the set value, problems may arise with ignition of the combustible mixture, which, one way or another, will affect the effective starting of the engine.

If the car is equipped with a contact ignition system, which is typical for outdated models, there is a possibility that the problem lies in the contact group. During operation, the surface of the contacts burns, which prevents the passage of current. In addition, you should monitor the gap between the contacts. It must match the set value.

The distributor drive also plays an important role in this case. Significant play in the seats indicates increased wear. Operating this unit in this condition can cause serious engine problems.

Supply system

During operation, the elements of the power system are subject to mechanical wear and clogging. It is worth noting that timely replacement of consumables in this case will significantly reduce the likelihood of failure of fuel system components.

One way or another, diagnosing faults of this kind should begin by checking the fuel pump. If it is equipped with a manual pumping mechanism, you can try pumping fuel manually. If the pump does not have such a function, then in order to ensure its functionality, it should be dismantled. The main working element of the pump is the diaphragm. If external damage to its surface is observed, it must be replaced.

The quality of fuel in the vast expanses of our vast Motherland leaves much to be desired. In this regard, all filter elements should be replaced in a timely manner. It is possible that poor engine starting is due to a clogged fuel filter.

This issue should be approached responsibly:

check the mesh elements in the fuel pump, carburetor and fuel tank,
inspect the fine filter,
make sure the fuel line is capable of flowing.

Cylinder-piston group

A worn cylinder-piston group also negatively affects engine starting. A key indicator of a serviceable CPG is the presence of a set operating pressure at the moment of the compression stroke.

In order to check the compression, you need to use a compression gauge. This device is equipped with an indicator with a scale and a tube with a fitting. The latter is screwed in instead of the spark plug. When the engine starts, the pressure gauge records the pressure in the cylinder.

By checking the compression in each cylinder one by one, you can draw a conclusion about the degree of wear of the CPG. On average, compression gasoline engine should be about 10 -12 atmospheres.

Checking the ignition system and electronics

Checking the ignition system requires a certain sequence of actions. This step-by-step diagnostic principle allows you to significantly save time and quickly eliminate the malfunction.

This stage involves checking the following components and elements of the ignition system:

Babina;
spark plug;
distributor (breaker-distributor);
distributor capacitor.

The ignition coil serves to generate the high-voltage voltage necessary to ignite the working mixture. If it starts to act up, the engine may not start. To make sure it is working, you need to “throw off” the central wire of the distributor and “short” it to engine ground.

If there is a spark, the coil is good. If not, the spool should be replaced. In most cases, coils become unusable as a result of natural wear and tear. But there are times when its “death” occurs after replacement high voltage wires for non-standard analogues.

If the serviceability of the coil is beyond doubt, we will observe the operation of the spark plugs. First you need to unscrew them and conduct a visual inspection. Special attention you need to pay attention to the working part where the electrodes are located. If the candles "lead healthy image life,” their surface is distinguished by the presence of a barely noticeable bluish coating.

If the electrodes are “smoky,” the mixture is over-enriched. If the electrode is distinguished by the presence white plaque, the engine is experiencing fuel starvation.

After a visual inspection, you need to make sure that a spark is coming from the distributor to the spark plugs. Each candle is brought to the mass of the car at the minimum possible distance.

When cranking the engine with the starter, a spark discharge should occur in the gap between the electrode and the ground.

Distributor

One of the key ignition mechanisms that influences efficient engine starting is the distributor.

Diagnostics of its performance comes down to checking the following elements:

slider;
contact Group.

The slider is responsible for supplying a spark to the contacts of the spark plug wires. Therefore, if it fails, the supply of spark directly to the spark plugs will stop. It often happens that the resistor installed in its housing burns out. In this case, after replacing it, the fault is eliminated.

A contact pair consists of a moving and a fixed contact. Each of them has so-called “nickels”. During operation and external influences, they wear out and characteristic marks, the so-called shells, appear on their surface. This significantly reduces the current throughput, which negatively affects sparking. If the degree of wear is insignificant, the contacts are cleaned, after which the gap between them is set with a feeler gauge. When they are critically worn, they must be replaced.

Capacitor

A capacitor is placed on the distributor body. It is designed to generate more voltage on the secondary winding of the coil. Checking its serviceability will not take much time.

To do this, use a regular 12V car light bulb. A lamp is connected to the gap between the coil and the capacitor. If it lights up, the capacitor is faulty. The lamp does not light - the capacitor is working.

Malfunction of the fuel system

Most of these problems are caused by untimely replacement fuel filters. As a rule, as a result of their clogging, uncleaned fuel flows through the bypass channel directly into the carburetor or, in the case of an injector, to the fuel injectors.

So, an inspection of fuel equipment and all consumables should begin with checking the filter parts. To do this, it is enough to check the throughput of the fine filter, as well as inspect the fuel receiver installed in the car tank.

If replacing the filters does not lead to the desired result, it becomes necessary to check the following components of the power system:

gasoline pump;
carburetor;
injectors.

Due to prolonged operation, the diaphragm and valves of the fuel pump can exhaust their service life. Due to the fact that they belong to consumables, to eliminate such a malfunction you will only need to replace them.

In the case of a carburetor, the situation is somewhat more complicated. To check its serviceability, you will need to remove at least its upper part. If in float chamber there are weed particles in the form of heavy fractions, the carburetor needs comprehensive cleaning. It involves purging its jets and channels.

In addition, due to the entry of foreign particles into the cavity of the locking needle, there is a possibility that it has sunk. Blowing out the channel with compressed air will solve this problem.

Malfunction of injectors is often caused by clogging of their calibration holes.

A clear sign of such a defect is low level nozzle spray. Simply put, fuel is supplied unevenly, in the form of a stream. In this case, they need to be washed. It is worth noting that comprehensive diagnostics of injector operation is carried out only on a special stand.

What to do if the car does not start in winter

Associated with various difficulties. This is especially true for car owners whose cars are forced to spend the winter outdoors.

In order to significantly facilitate engine starting at sub-zero temperatures, you need to adhere to some requirements:

use synthetic lubricants, declared by the manufacturer;
insulate engine compartment special means;
use pre-heaters and auxiliary devices;
Depress the clutch pedal before starting the engine;
monitor serviceability (check the density, level and charge of the electrolyte).

What to do if attempts to start the engine in severe frost are unsuccessful? Let's assume that the battery is still “alive”. In this case, you need to unscrew the candles and heat them properly. If they are “smoked,” it means that the owner pressed the gas pedal too hard and simply flooded them. So, the candles are calcined and screwed into the head.

Before starting it should be "ventilated" intake manifold, holding the gas pedal in the fully depressed position for several seconds. We turn the starter and observe the behavior of the engine, while the air damper should be closed 1/3.

If, after a short period of operation of the starter, “flashes” appear, you should not “drive” the starter to the point of complete exhaustion. The attempt must be repeated after some time, gradually enriching the mixture by further blocking the carburetor working chamber with the air damper.

Effective engine starting depends on the proper operation of all its life support systems. Each system requires systematic maintenance and repair. Such diagnostic measures will eliminate the occurrence of unforeseen breakdowns and malfunctions and will have the most favorable effect on the operation and starting of the engine, regardless of external factors.

The reasons that the starter does not turn there may be a malfunction of the solenoid relay, low battery charge, bad electrical contacts in the circuit, mechanical failure starter and so on. It will be useful for every car owner to know what to do if the starter does not turn the engine. Indeed, in most cases, repairs can be done yourself. Moreover, a breakdown usually occurs at the most unforeseen moment, when it is not possible to use the help of a car repairman. Next, we will consider in detail the causes of the malfunction and methods for eliminating them.

Cases considered:

Signs of a faulty starter

There are actually many reasons why. However, a faulty starter can be determined by the appearance of one or more of the following symptoms:

the starter does not turn on;
starter clicks but doesn't turn over crankshaft engine;
when the starter is turned on, the crankshaft rotates very slowly, which is why the engine does not start;
audible metallic grinding gear that does not mesh with the crankshaft.

Reasons why the starter does not turn

Often the reason that the car does not start and the starter does not turn the flywheel is dead battery. This reason is not directly related to the breakdown of the starter, however, before diagnosing this unit, it is necessary to check the charge of the battery and, if necessary, recharge it. Most modern car alarms blocks the starter circuit provided that the voltage level from the battery is 10 V or lower. Therefore, you will not be able to start the engine under this condition. To prevent this from happening, monitor the battery charge level and recharge it periodically if necessary. Also remember about. However, we will assume that everything is in order with the battery charge level.

Consider the private one special case... Owners of a 2007-2008 Ford Focus 2 car may encounter a problem when the starter does not turn due to an error in the original immobilizer. Diagnosing this breakdown is very simple - to do this, just turn on the battery power directly to the starter. However, it works without problems. Usually, official dealers The immobilizer is replaced under warranty.

The reasons that the starter does not turn and “shows no signs of life” may be the following situations:

Deterioration or disappearance contact in the starter circuit. This may occur due to corrosion or deterioration of the bolted wires. We are talking about the main “ground” contact attached to the machine body. It is also necessary to check the ground of the main and starter solenoid relays. According to statistics, in 80% of cases, problems with a non-working starter come down to malfunctions in the car’s electrical circuit. Therefore, in order to eliminate the problem, it is necessary to inspect the wiring, that is, inspect the starter power circuit, tighten the bolted connections on the blocks and terminals. Using a multimeter, check for voltage on the control wire going to the starter; it may be damaged. To check it, you can close the starter “directly”. How to do this is described below.
Malfunction starter relay. This could be a break in its windings, a short circuit in them, mechanical damage to internal components, and so on. It is necessary to diagnose the relay, find and eliminate the fault. Additional information You will find information on how to do this in the corresponding .
Short circuit in the starter winding. This is a fairly rare, but critical problem. It occurs most often in starters that have been used for a long time. Over time, the insulation on their windings is destroyed, which may result in the appearance of interturn short circuit. This can also happen due to mechanical damage to the starter or when it is exposed to aggressive chemicals. In any case, it is necessary to check for the presence of a short circuit, and if it occurs, then the solution will not be repair, but complete replacement starter.

Problems with ignition switch contact group, which may be the reason why the starter does not turn. If the contacts in the ignition switch are damaged, then no current passes through them to the electric motor, and accordingly, it will not spin. The test can be done using a multimeter. Check whether voltage is supplied to the ignition switch and whether it leaves it when you turn the key. You also need to check the fuses contact group(usually located in the cabin, under the “dashboard” on the left or right side).
Slipping of the freewheel of the starter drive. In this case, repair is impossible; the mechanical drive of the starter must be replaced.
The drive moves tightly along the shaft thread. To fix it, you need to disassemble the starter, clean the threads of debris and lubricate them with machine oil.

Inconsistency viscosity motor oil temperature conditions. This situation can arise when the engine oil becomes very thick in extreme cold and prevents the crankshaft from rotating normally. The solution to the problem is to use an analogue with the appropriate viscosity.
Low battery. If it is not charged enough, then there is not enough energy to turn the crankshaft at normal speed using the starter. The solution is to charge the battery or replace it if it does not hold a charge well. Especially this situation relevant for winter.
Violation brush contact and/or loose wire ends, going to the starter. To eliminate this breakdown, it is necessary to inspect the brush assembly, change the brushes if necessary, clean the commutator, adjust the tension of the springs in the brushes or change the springs.

In some modern cars(for example, VAZ 2110) the electrical circuit is designed in such a way that if the starter brushes are significantly worn, voltage is not supplied to the solenoid relay at all. Therefore, when you turn on the ignition, it will not click.

Let's list a few more atypical situations due to which the starter does not turn both cold and hot. So:

Control wire problem, which goes to the starter. If its insulation or contact is damaged, it will be impossible to start the engine using the key. We recommend that you review it. To do this you will need the help of another person. One of you should try to start the engine using the ignition key, while the other one pulls the wire, trying to “catch” the position in which the necessary contact will occur. Another option is to apply a direct “+” from the battery to the mentioned control wire. If the engine starts, you need to look for the cause in the ignition switch; if not, in the insulation or integrity of the wire. If the problem is a damaged wire, then the best option is its replacement.
Sometimes the starter stator comes unstuck from the housing permanent magnets . To eliminate the damage, you need to disassemble the starter and re-glue them to their designated places.
Fuse failure. It's not common, but probable cause that the starter does not work and does not turn the engine. First of all, we are talking about fuses for the contact group of the ignition system.
The return spring flies off on the starter solenoid relay. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to remove the specified relay and install the spring in place.

The starter clicks but doesn't turn over

Inspection of starter brushes on VAZ-2110

Very often, when the starter malfunctions, it is not the mechanism itself that is to blame, but its retractor relay. It is important to understand that when you turn on the ignition, it is not the starter that clicks, but the mentioned relay. Malfunctions consist of one of the following reasons:

Failure of the power wire that connects the starter windings and the traction relay. To solve the problem it is necessary to replace it.
Significant wear on starter bushings and/or brushes. In this case, they need to be replaced.
Short circuit on the armature winding. You can check this using a multimeter. As a rule, the winding is not repaired, but another starter is purchased and installed.
Short circuit or break in one of the starter windings. The situation is similar to the previous one. The device needs to be replaced.
The fork in the bendix is broken or deformed. This is a mechanical failure that is difficult to fix. The optimal solution in this situation would be to replace the bendix or the fork separately (if possible).

The starter does not turn when hot

Starting the engine directly

Sometimes car owners have problems when the starter does not turn “hot”. That is, with a cold engine, after a long period of parking, the car starts without problems, but when it heats up significantly, problems arise. In this case, the most common problem is incorrectly selected starter bushings, that is, having a smaller diameter than required. When heated, a natural process of increasing the size of the parts occurs, which is why the starter shaft jams and does not rotate. Therefore, choose bushings and bearings in accordance with the manual for your car.

Also, in extreme heat, contacts in the vehicle's electrical system may deteriorate. Moreover, this applies to all contacts - on the battery terminals, the solenoid and main starter relay, on ground, and so on. Therefore, we recommend that you inspect them, clean and degrease them.

Closing the starter directly with a screwdriver

Emergency engine starting methods

When the starter does not click or make any sounds at all, the engine can be started if it is closed “directly”. This is not the most The best decision, however, in cases where you need to go urgently and there is no other option, you can use it.

Let's consider the situation of how to start the engine directly using the example of a VAZ-2110 car. So, the sequence of actions will be as follows:

engage neutral gear and set the car to the handbrake;
turn on the ignition by turning the key in the lock and open the hood, since further actions We will conduct it in the engine compartment;
take off air filter from its seat and move it to the side in order to get to the starter contacts;
disconnect the chip going to the contact group;
use a metal object (for example, a screwdriver with a wide flat blade or a piece of wire) to short-circuit the starter terminals;
as a result of this, provided that the other components listed above are in good working order and the battery is charged, the car will start.

After this, install the chip and air filter back. An interesting fact is that in most cases the engine will continue to be started using the ignition key. However, you should remember that the breakdown still remains, so you need to look for it yourself or go to a car service center for help in order to fix it.

Emergency engine start

We offer you another method that will be useful to you if you need to start the engine in an emergency. It only fits for front wheel drive passenger cars With manual transmission gears! The algorithm of actions is as follows:

it is necessary to jack up the car by hanging any of the front wheels;
turn the hung wheel outwards all the way (if the left wheel - then to the left, if the right wheel - then to the right);
wrap a tow rope or strong rope around the surface of the tire 3-4 times, leaving 1-2 meters free;
turn on THIRD transfer;
turn the key in the ignition;
pull strongly on the end of the cable, trying to spin the wheel (it is better to do this not in place, but with a slight run-up);
When the car starts up, first of all set the gear to neutral (this can be done without pressing the clutch pedal) and wait until the wheel will come to a complete stop;
lower the hanging wheel to the ground.

When carrying out the procedure described, be extremely careful and follow the necessary safety precautions so as not to injure yourself or damage the machine.

The described method of spinning the wheel of front-wheel drive cars is reminiscent of the method of starting a crooked starter (using the crank) used in old rear-wheel drive cars (for example, VAZ “classic”). If in the latter case the starter is spun using a handle, then in front-wheel drive cars it is spun from the axle shaft on which the raised wheel is located.

Conclusion

The starter is simple, but extremely important mechanism in the car. Therefore, its breakdown is critical, as it does not allow the engine to start. In most cases, problems are related to the car's electrical wiring, poor contacts, broken wires, and so on. Therefore, if the starter does not turn over and does not start the engine, the first thing we recommend is that you inspect the contacts (main ground, relay contacts, ignition switch, etc.).

AND possible reasons. It's no secret that difficulties of this kind are always an unpleasant and unexpected surprise for any driver. Surely each of us has witnessed a situation where the car does not start, the starter turns but does not engage. Let's try to figure out why this happens so that we have an idea of how to behave in such a situation. The fact that the starter is already spinning well means your accumulator battery healthy. Read how to check the condition of the battery.

Not a single car engine is insured against such a situation. And it doesn’t matter what the air temperature is outside the cabin. Let's look step by step what to do for different types of power units.

In case of carburetor engine Determining the causes of difficult starting is a little easier. First, let's try to pull the choke handle (air damper control) towards us. If this does not help, then move on to searching for a spark. Poor contact, oxidized or burnt terminals can make it difficult to start the motor. The same applies to poor contact of the coil with ground. If the spark is fine and there is fuel in the gas tank, then there are problems in adjusting the starting device.

The procedure will be as follows:

The injector has its own characteristics, which appear when starting problems occur. With such symptoms, you need to start by checking the fuel pump. This may be due to oxidation of the power terminals. After this, you need to check the fuel pressure level in the fuel rail. Find the side where the fuel supply is connected. On the side opposite to it there is a valve under the cap. We press on it and expect fuel to flow from there. If this does not happen, we begin to check the functionality of the fuel pump pressure reducing valve and the condition of the fuel filter.

What could be the reason that I'm turning the starter, but injection engine won't start - blog readers often ask me? One of the possible troubles is related to flooded. This often happens in frosty weather. You need to wait until they are dry enough. The engine can be turned with the starter by first removing the injector connectors.

Diesel

Most difficult to launch diesel engine. The fuel in it ignites according to a slightly different principle. The chambers in which diesel fuel burns are heated to very high temperatures. high temperatures, after which diesel fuel is supplied to them along with air, which ignites due to compression. In cold weather, it is advisable to heat the air in the cylinders with glow plugs. If this is not done, the car may start, but immediately stall or operate unstably until it warms up.

Even the slightest frost or zero temperature can be enough to cause starting problems. IN diesel engine You need to start by checking the condition of the glow plugs. We start by checking the glow plug control unit. For this we need a control lamp. We connect it to ground and power to the spark plugs, and then turn the key in the ignition. If the unit is working properly, the indicator lamp will light up.