There is no spark at the spark plugs. Why is there no spark at the spark plugs? No spark from the ignition coil on the injector

07.10.2021

Unpleasant for any car owner. Malfunctions with the ignition system are accompanied by problems in the engine. A clear sign that there is a malfunction in the ignition system is the absence of a spark or it is too weak. This often occurs in some VAZ models: 2106, 2109, 2114, and also 2110. And this, as a rule, happens at the most inopportune moment.

Why might there be no spark?

The list of situations for which there may be no spark is very long; anything can affect this. Let's try to identify the most frequently occurring causes on the VAZ models 2109, 2114, 2110, 2106:

weak battery charge;
the problem is in the high-voltage wires;
there are problems with the ignition coil;
problems with the low voltage circuit;
problems with the ignition distributor.

You should also pay attention to the quality of contacts and electrical components. The contacts, of course, can be checked quite easily by tugging them a little with your fingers. In addition, it is advisable to inspect all elements. If there is dirt, oil, or water on them, they must be wiped off immediately with a dry cloth. After this, you can try to start the car.

Checking the battery

Situations where there is a problem with the battery charge are indicated by the fact that the sound of the horn has become barely audible. Also on the instrument panel, when the car is started, the lights go out. Consequently, the reason why there is no spark is problematic contacts at the battery terminals or its weak charge.

If troubles arise due to oxidation of one of the terminals, you just need to clean it and tighten it tightly. Graphite grease is also used to protect the contacts.
If the problem turns out to be a low battery charge, you can simply charge it and monitor the charge level in the future.

Checking high voltage wires

Another reason for the disappearance of the spark may be high voltage wires X. First of all, all wires must have normal appearance, there should not be any shabby places or areas with broken insulation. If this cannot be eliminated, you need to replace the explosive wires.

The search for a spark must begin with the wires that come off. You need to carefully examine all the contacts and caps that are placed on the candles themselves. Candles all together rarely fail just like that, so you shouldn’t complain about them.

Checking the ignition coil

To conduct, you need to remove the main wire from the distributor cap. Next, we try to crank the starter to see a spark from the wire.

A spark has formed - this indicates that the coil is working properly. So the problem is with the breaker.
If there is no spark, the fault must be looked for in the ignition coil.

If it has been determined that the problem lies specifically in the ignition coil, then it will have to be replaced. In “middle-aged” VAZ cars, especially 2109, 2106, 2114, 2110, this phenomenon is by no means rare.

Checking the ignition distributor

If there is a possibility that the problem lies specifically in the breaker, then in order to make a diagnosis, you need to inspect its cover from the inside:

Visually, the lid is intact and has no signs of breakage - rinse, better than gasoline, and put it in place.
If there are any visible signs of breakage or if there are any cracks, the cover needs to be replaced.

You also need to check the central contact of the breaker for any “freezes”. This is easy to do: just move its carbon tip.

Another check that can and even needs to be done is checking the insulation of the breaker rotor. This is done like this:

First, the central BB cable is located at a distance of five to eight millimeters from the electrode.
Next, you need to close and open the contacts several times. All this must be done with the ignition on.

If even the slightest spark jumps in this small gap, this indicates a rotor malfunction. In such situations, he is replaced.

Checking the low voltage circuit

To diagnose such a circuit, you can use a 12-volt test lamp with a power of up to three watts. This light bulb must be connected with one contact to the ground of the car, and the other to the low voltage terminal. After manipulating the connection manually, the contacts of the breaker are closed and the ignition is turned on. If the circuit is working properly, then when the contacts are closed, the light goes out, and when the contacts are open, it lights up. When this does not happen, you need to start looking for a problem in the coil winding or in the cables.

If the lamp is constantly on, this indicates one of the following types of malfunctions:

The breaker contacts are heavily oxidized.
The wire leading from the lever to the breaker terminal is broken.
The wire that connects the housing to the movable disk is broken.

The oxidized wires need to be cleaned, after which the system will work. In any other case, more in-depth intervention is necessary.

Lost spark on engines with injector

If we consider an engine with an injector, then everything is much more complicated. It is not always possible to check the presence of a spark in the spark plugs using the “ground” method, and in certain cases it is very dangerous; you can “kill” the entire electronic control unit. Therefore, in a system with an injector, it is better to check it in some other way.

Let's sum it up

Spark plugs play a vital role in the performance of a vehicle. If at least one spark plug fails and does not produce a spark, correspondingly, one of the cylinders will not work, the car will have increased consumption fuel and will be less dynamic. Finding the reason for the disappearance of the spark is a very difficult task, since several units may be “to blame” for this. However, for normal functioning this is simply necessary.

One of the most common reasons causing inability to start gasoline engine, is the banal lack of spark on the spark plugs. Under such circumstances, there is nothing to ignite the combustible mixture on the compression stroke, and as a result, the engine refuses to work. Depending on what kind of power system the car is equipped with, it is determined exactly how to proceed to determine the exact cause of the lack of a spark and measures to return it. More details about this problem at injection engines Let's talk today. Interesting? Then be sure to read the material below to the end.

Checking for spark

Let's say your injection car stopped responding to the ignition key and refuses to start. It is quite irrational to immediately complain about a malfunction in the ignition system. First of all, you need to make sure that it is the spark that has disappeared and not something else that has broken. To check spark plugs for the presence of the coveted “light”, you can resort to several procedures at once. Perhaps the most effective and simple ones are the following:

The first method is a mass test. To implement it, you need to turn off the ignition, unscrew each spark plug in turn and, placing its body against ground (the metal body of the engine), try to start the engine;
The second method is checking with a multimeter or a tester based on a piezoelectric element. This diagnostic option is quite similar to the method described above, except that the spark plug is applied not to ground, but to the contacts of the tester or multimeter. However, in this case there is no need to “turn” the starter; the spark must come from the devices themselves.

If, as a result of the above-mentioned testing methods, sparking on the spark plug is not detected, or there is a spark, but weak (dimmed, dim, dull), it is necessary to identify the cause of the malfunction. Do not forget that operating a car with a poorly functioning ignition negatively affects engine performance and significantly reduces its service life.

Note! Checking the spark on the injector is an extremely important undertaking, since similar cars very sensitive electronics. Considering this particular feature, it is important to carry out diagnostics carefully and as quickly as possible, that is, without numerous repetitions of the test and using only high-quality testers.

Causes of sparking problems

If there is no spark on the injector, and not, for example, on a carburetor or gear motor, you will have to try to identify the reasons for its loss. This is due to the fact that the factors influencing sparking in injection systems, slightly larger and they look more multifaceted. To summarize the general list possible reasons problems, it is worth highlighting the following most common ones:

The spark plug or spark plugs are flooded with fuel - there is either no spark or very weak, the spark plugs themselves are wet;
The spark plug or spark plugs are faulty - there is no spark at all, deposits on the contacts are usually black or white;
The crankshaft sensor, ignition module, ignition coil, switch or distributor is faulty - there is no spark at all, the engine shows no signs of “life”, the injector does not work correctly;
High-voltage wires have broken through or there has been a loss of contacts - one or two spark plugs do not work, the rest are fully operational;
The injector electronics (ECU or wires) are faulty - the unit does not work correctly, there is no spark at all spark plugs;
The injector nozzles are clogged - there is no spark at the spark plugs of specific cylinders, the injector is not working correctly.

Please note that for a complete and most accurate diagnosis, it is necessary to carry out several procedures at once:

Naturally, check for a spark;
Assess for the presence of the symptoms described above;
Check for relevant errors on dashboard or on-board computer screen;
Check the potentially faulty unit (disassembly, cleaning, diagnostics with a multimeter, etc.).

If, based on the results of all diagnostic procedures, the problem is not identified, then, most likely, a visit to the service station cannot be avoided. Otherwise, it is quite acceptable to carry out repairs yourself, of course, if you have the proper skills, abilities and tools.

Bringing the car back to life

As for why a spark disappears, everything is probably very clear. Now, it would not be amiss to consider the order of her return. The reality is that in most cases, getting the spark back is a simple matter and just involves carefully checking the broken car. To be more precise, to normalize sparking it is required:

Firstly, check the spark on the injector using the method described above, make sure that it has disappeared, and, at least indirectly, try to determine the cause of the malfunction;
Next, it is enough to assess the current circumstances and act based on them. As typical situations, we suggest considering solutions to the following problems:
- the spark plug is wet, the presence and strength of the spark are unimportant, the carbon deposits are correct (brick color) - wipe the part and screw it back in;
- the spark plug is wet (not always) and the carbon deposits are incorrect (white or black) - clean, dry the part and try to start the engine, if there is no result, change the spark plug and deal with problems in the fuel system (cleaning the injector, checking the ECU, etc.);
- the spark plug is wet, there is no spark at all, the color of the soot is not important - we try to change the part, if there is no result, we check the ignition system and the operation of the injector.

Operation power unit VAZ 2106 is inextricably linked with the formation of a spark, which is influenced by almost all elements of the ignition system. The appearance of malfunctions in the system is reflected in the form of problems with the engine: tripping, jerking, dips, floating speeds, etc. occur. Therefore, at the first symptoms, you need to find and eliminate the cause of the malfunction, which every Zhiguli owner can do with his own hands.

No spark on VAZ 2106

Sparking is an important process that ensures starting and stable work power unit, for which the ignition system is responsible. The latter can be contact or non-contact, but the essence of its work remains the same - to ensure the formation and distribution of a spark to the desired cylinder at a certain point in time. If this does not happen, the engine may either not start at all or run intermittently. Therefore, it is worth dwelling in more detail on what kind of spark there should be and what the reasons for its absence may be.

Why do you need a spark?

Since the VAZ 2106 and other “classics” have an engine internal combustion, the operation of which is ensured by the combustion of the fuel-air mixture; a spark is required to ignite the latter. To obtain it, the car is equipped with an ignition system, in which the main elements are spark plugs, high-voltage (HV) wires, a distributor-breaker and an ignition coil. Both spark formation as a whole and the quality of the spark depend on the performance of each of them. The principle of obtaining a spark is quite simple and comes down to the following steps:

Contacts located in the distributor provide low voltage supply to the primary winding of the high-voltage coil.
When the contacts open, a high voltage is indicated at the coil output.
High-voltage voltage is supplied through the central wire to the ignition distributor, through which sparks are distributed to the cylinders.
A spark plug is installed in the cylinder head for each cylinder, to which voltage is supplied via explosive wires, as a result of which a spark is formed.
When a spark appears, the combustible mixture ignites, ensuring the operation of the engine.

What should be the spark?

Normal engine operation is possible only with a high-quality spark, which is determined by its color, which should be bright white with a blue tint. If the spark is purple, red or yellow, then this indicates problems in the ignition system.

Signs of a bad spark

The spark can be either bad or completely absent. Therefore, you need to figure out what the possible symptoms are and what could be the cause of problems with sparking.

No spark

A complete lack of spark is manifested by the inability to start the engine. There can be many reasons for this phenomenon:

wet or failed spark plugs;
damaged explosive wires;
break in the coil;
problems with the distributor;
failure of the Hall sensor or switch (on a car with a contactless distributor).

Video: searching for a spark on a “classic”

Weak spark

The power of the spark also has a significant impact on the functioning of the power unit. If the spark is weak, the combustible mixture may ignite earlier or later than necessary. As a result, power decreases, fuel consumption increases, failures occur in different modes, and the engine may also misfire.

Triplication is a process in which one of the cylinders power plant works intermittently or does not work at all.

One reason why the spark may be weak is due to improper clearance. contact group ignition distributor. For classic Zhiguli cars this parameter is 0.35–0.45 mm. A gap less than this value results in a weak spark. A higher value, at which the contacts in the distributor do not completely close, can lead to a complete absence of a spark. In addition to the contact group, other components of the ignition system should not be overlooked.

An insufficiently powerful spark is possible, for example, when spark plug wires break down, i.e., when part of the energy goes to ground. The same thing can happen with a spark plug when the insulator is pierced or a significant layer of soot forms on the electrodes, preventing the breakdown of the spark.

Spark to the wrong cylinder

Quite rarely, but it happens that there is a spark, but it is supplied to the wrong cylinder. At the same time, the engine operates unstable, troits, shoots air filter. In this case, there can be no question of any normal operation of the motor. There may not be many reasons for this behavior:

the explosive wires on the distributor cap are mixed up;
the cover on the distributor is installed incorrectly;
The spark plug wires are not connected correctly to the spark plugs.

The last point, although unlikely, since the length of high-voltage cables is different, is still worth considering if problems with ignition occur. The listed reasons arise, as a rule, due to inexperience. Therefore, when repairing the ignition system, you need to be careful and connect the explosive wires in accordance with the numbering on the distributor cover.

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting in the ignition system of the VAZ “Six” should be carried out using the method of elimination, checking element by element sequentially. This is worth dwelling on in more detail.

Battery check

Since when starting a car, the power source is the battery, it is by checking this device that diagnostics should begin. Malfunctions with the battery appear when you try to start the engine. At this moment, the indicator lights on the instrument panel go out. The reason could be either poor contact on the terminals themselves, or simply a weak battery charge. Therefore, the condition of the terminals should be checked and, if you need to clean them, tighten the fastening. To prevent future oxidation, it is recommended to cover the contacts with a graphite coating. If the battery is discharged, it is charged using an appropriate device.

Spark plug wires

The next elements that require mandatory checking in case of problems with sparking are explosive wires. Upon external inspection, the cables should not show any damage (cracks, breaks, etc.). To assess whether a spark passes through the wire or not, you will need to remove the tip from the spark plug and place it near a ground (5–8 mm), for example, near the engine block, and crank the starter for a few seconds.

At this time, a powerful spark should jump. The absence of one will indicate the need to check the high-voltage coil. Since it is impossible to determine by ear which of the cylinders does not spark, the test should be performed one by one with all wires.

Video: diagnostics of explosive wires with a multimeter

Spark plug

Spark plugs, although infrequently, still fail. If a malfunction occurs, it is with one element, and not with all of them at once. If a spark is present on the spark plug wires, then to check the spark plugs themselves, they are unscrewed from the cylinder head of the “six” and an explosive cable is put on. The metal body of the spark plug touches the masses and turns the starter. If the spark plug element is working, then a spark will jump between the electrodes. However, it may also be absent from a working spark plug when the electrodes are filled with fuel.

In this case, the part needs to be dried, for example, on gas stove or install another one. In addition, it is recommended to check the gap between the electrodes with a feeler gauge. For a contact ignition system it should be 0.5–0.6 mm, for a contactless ignition system it should be 0.7–08 mm.

Ignition coil

To test high voltage coil, it is necessary to remove the central cable from the distributor cover. By cranking the starter, we check for the presence of a spark in the same way as with the explosive wires. If there is a spark, then the coil is working and the problem should be looked for elsewhere. If there is no spark, the problem is possible both with the coil itself and with the low-voltage circuit. To diagnose the device in question, you can use a multimeter. For this:

Low voltage circuit

The high potential on the ignition coil is formed as a result of applying a low voltage to its primary winding. To check the functionality of the low voltage circuit, you can use a tester (light bulb). We connect it to the low voltage terminal of the distributor and ground. If the circuit is working, then the lamp, when the ignition is on, should light up when the distributor contacts open and go out when they close. If there is no glow at all, then this indicates a malfunction of the coil or conductors in the primary circuit. When the lamp lights up, regardless of the position of the contacts, the problem may be the following:

damage to the conductor that goes from the distributor terminal to the lever. Eliminated by restoring damaged wiring;
break in the conductor running from the movable disk to the housing. The malfunction can be treated as in the previous paragraph;
oxide formation on contacts. In this case, cleaning and adjustment of the elements is required.

Checking the contact distributor

The need to check the distributor-breaker arises if problems arise with sparking, but during the diagnostics of the ignition system elements the problem could not be identified.

Cover and rotor

First of all, we inspect the cover and rotor of the device. The check consists of the following steps:

contact Group

The main malfunctions of the ignition distributor contact group are burnt contacts and incorrect clearance between them. In case of burning, the contacts are cleaned with fine sandpaper. If they are severely damaged, it is better to replace them. As for the gap itself, to check it it is necessary to remove the cover of the distributor-breaker and turn the engine crankshaft so that the cam on the distributor shaft opens the contacts as much as possible. We check the gap with a feeler gauge and if it differs from the norm, then we adjust the contacts by unscrewing the corresponding screws and moving the contact plate.

Capacitor

If a capacitor is installed on the distributor of your “six”, then sometimes the part can fail as a result of a breakdown. The malfunction appears as follows:

problems starting the engine;
sudden engine stop while driving.

You can check an element in the following ways:

Checking the contactless distributor

If the “six” is equipped, then checking elements such as spark plugs, coil, and explosive wires is performed in the same way as with the contact wire. The differences lie in checking the switch and the Hall sensor installed instead of the contacts.

Hall Sensor

The easiest way to diagnose a Hall sensor is to install a known working element. But since the part may not always be at hand, you have to look for other possible options.

Checking the removed sensor

During the test, the voltage at the sensor output is determined. We determine the serviceability of the element removed from the machine according to the presented diagram by applying a voltage in the range of 8–14 V.

Diagram for checking the removed Hall sensor: 1 - ignition distributor; 2 - 2 kOhm resistor; 3 - voltmeter with a scale limit of at least 15 V and an internal resistance of at least 100 kOhm; 4 - plug connector connected to the ignition distributor sensor

By placing a screwdriver into the sensor gap, the voltage should change within 0.3–4 V. If the distributor has been completely removed, then by turning its shaft, we measure the voltage in the same way.

Checking the sensor without removing it

The performance of the Hall sensor can be assessed without removing the part from the car, using the diagram provided.

Diagram for checking the Hall sensor on a car: 1 - ignition distributor; 2 - adapter connector with a voltmeter having a scale limit of at least 15 V and an internal resistance of at least 100 kOhm; 3 - plug connector connected to the ignition distributor sensor; 4 - car wiring harness

The essence of the test comes down to connecting a voltmeter to the corresponding contacts on the sensor connector. After this, turn on the ignition and special key turn the crankshaft. The presence of voltage at the output, which corresponds to the above values, will indicate the serviceability of the element.

Video: Hall sensor diagnostics

Switch

Since the formation of a spark also depends on the switch, you need to know how to check this device too.

Can be purchased new part or perform the following sequence of actions using the control light:

Unscrew the nut and remove the brown wire from contact “K” of the coil.
We connect a light bulb to the resulting open circuit.
Turn on the ignition and crank the starter several times. If the switch is working properly, the light will light up. Otherwise, the element being diagnosed will need to be replaced.

Video: checking the ignition system switch

The performance of the systems and components of the VAZ “six” must be constantly monitored. The occurrence of problems with sparking will not go unnoticed. Troubleshooting and troubleshooting does not require special tools or skills. A minimal set consisting of keys, a screwdriver and a light bulb will be quite sufficient for diagnostics and repairs. The main thing is to know and understand how a spark is formed, and what elements of the ignition system can affect its absence or poor quality.

The ignition system is one of the most important in any internal combustion engine. Almost everything depends on its proper operation performance characteristics. And often the main reason why a car engine does not start is that there is no spark from the ignition coil. To understand why it is such a critical element, you need to understand the operating principle of the entire system as a whole and become familiar with its various types.

Ignition system design

In modern car engine fuel mixture ignites in the cylinders using an electric spark that appears between the electrodes of the spark plug. The gap between them is less than 1 mm, but to overcome this air space a very high voltage is required, on the order of 10 kV. The ignition coil from the low voltage of the car's electrical system creates such high-voltage pulses.

What are the types of ignition systems?

Ignition systems that use coils in their operation are divided into two groups: contact and non-contact.

Contact systems(classic VAZ models). Here's the distribution electric current flow to the spark plugs is carried out using a moving contact (“slider”), which is installed in the distributor housing.
Contactless systems. High-voltage pulses are also created here, and they are distributed among the cylinders by a special contactless slider and switch. Such systems are installed on carburetor models of front-wheel drive VAZs, as well as Tavria. On engines equipped with an injection system, the spark distribution is handled by the engine control system (all injection VAZ models), and the coils themselves are made either as a single unit (one for each cylinder) or as separate modules (installed directly on the spark plugs).

Characteristic signs

On bad job Ignition systems usually indicate the following phenomena:

difficulty starting the engine;
increased fuel consumption;
unstable idle;
weak traction and lack of power, failures in engine operation, poor throttle response;
the appearance of black soot on the candles;
periodic shutdown of one of the cylinders.

Diagnostics and troubleshooting

It should be remembered that deviations in the normal operation of the engine are almost always caused by only two groups of reasons: malfunctions in the power supply or ignition system. Therefore, you should proceed to diagnosing the ignition operation only after clearly eliminating causes related to the fuel supply.

Troubleshooting should only be done after eliminating all others. probable causes. To do this, perform the following steps sequentially:

A situation in which the engine does not start the first time, or does not start at all, can hardly be called pleasant. Experienced motorists know that any malfunction of the ignition system leads to partial and often even complete failure of the car engine.

So, if your car won't start, the reasons are:

No current signals are sent to the ignition coil;
fuel does not reach the carburetor;
current from the ignition coil does not enter the distributor;
reason there is no spark from the ignition coil;
no spark passes between the electrodes of the spark plug;
fuel liquid does not enter the combustion chamber;
The ignition distributor is broken.

The engine may also be blocked by the starter. But before checking the starter, inspect the condition of the electric motor winding; if it is not damaged, then the starter is most likely in good condition. Pay attention to the ignition coil.

The ignition coil is a converter of low voltage current to high voltage current in a vehicle's ignition system.

Malfunctions of the ignition coil are expressed by the following actions of the car:

Reduced engine operating intensity;
problems starting the engine;
a sharp decrease in the minimum engine speed, and interruption of its operation at Idling car;
increase in fuel costs.

How to check the ignition coil

Inspect this mechanism for oil stains and cracks. If the surface of the coil is not perfectly clean, wipe off the dirt with a dry cloth, otherwise it may cause high voltage leakage. Also pay attention to the ignition system wires; they must be dry and without external damage. Move the high-voltage wires with your hand and try to start the car. If this does not work, then you will have to check the ignition system more carefully.

To diagnose the condition of the spark plugs, take two high-voltage wires, having first removed them from the distributor cap. Place the wires at a distance of 5-7 mm from the car engine and wait for the reaction. If the system is fully operational, then when the starter is cranked, a spark will appear in this gap blue color. If there is no spark or a color other than blue, check the ignition coil.

The coil is checked in the same way. Remove the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor-breaker (distributor), and, by analogy with checking the spark plugs, with the starter running, bring the wire to the ground of the car. If there is no spark from the coil, then it is faulty.

Connect the ignition coil to an ohmmeter to check for breaks in the wires. Check the primary and secondary windings. The absence of holes will be confirmed by the ohmmeter readings: 3 Ohms and 7000 Ohms in the primary and secondary windings, respectively. If the resistance is less than standard values, then you are most likely in danger of replacing the ignition coil.
Check the correct connection of the coil wires and its insulation. If the wires are tangled together, correct this by untangling them and positioning them correctly. Use an ammeter to check the current in the circuit. To do this, connect the contacts of the distributor and turn on the ignition. The current strength displayed by the device should not be higher than that set for your car. If the current value is greater than the standard value, it means that there is a break in the coil winding caused by a short circuit.

A malfunction in the operation of the ignition coil most often occurs when the ignition system is turned on when the engine is turned off. As a result, isolation high voltage wires overheats, cracks, and crumbles over time, thus causing a short circuit.

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