Chery Amulet Replacing the clutch disk. Coupling Replacement on Chery Tiggo

27.09.2019

Naturally, no one will argue that all details, wheels, wheels are important in the vehicle force aggregate, steering system And other elements. However, the role of clutch is difficult to overestimate! Without him, transport simply will not be able to budge. Be sure to entail the problems in the checkpoint and the engine.

In the event that one clutch element is incorrectly operated, the rest also begin to function with interruptions. As a result, experts advise to replace the entire design completely. In short, if the problems with the driven disk, the presenter is also replaced, otherwise it is possible that the next day the repair will be required again.

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When you need replacement

For repairs or even replacement of Cherie Amulet, the following factors indicate:

the clutch is sinking;
leads;
reacts not smoothly, but jerks;
during inclusion, noises are heard.

Instructions for replacement

In the event of the above problems, you can solve them yourself. To do this, you only need to get acquainted with the proposed instructions. You will also have to read how some of the systems are removed and installed, in particular the PPC. Since they will have to shoot them.

What clutch choose?

Buying a new grip on Chery Amulet, follow the documentation going along with vehicle. Choose the same model as it is installed or its analog.

Instruments

passatia;
For replacement on Cherie Amulet;
keys;
screwdriver.

Stages

First of all, it is necessary to dismantle the checkpoint.
Now it's time to remove the flywheel and the slave disk.
Now you can remove the disk.
It is important not to forget how the tips of the spyer springs are located, it will be needed during the assembly.
Now it's time to remove the shield. It is necessary to make it necessary to prevent possible independent disconnection of the shield.
Now you need to capture the tip of the spider's tip with the help of pliers. Next, it comes up with a screwdriver and extracted.
Remove the spring.
Remove the backbone. When planning the installation of the former pressure disk, be sure to somehow close, as the disk and crankshaft cover is located. This is useful during installation.
Now you need to take a screwdriver and hold the casing so that it does not check.
Remove 6 bolts with which the crankshaft flange is attached. The tightening should be relaxed evenly by one turn going in a circle.
Now you need to remove the disk. Hold the plate fastening bolts. During the assembly, replace it.
We inspect the disk, perhaps there are cracks on it.
Look at friction linings. Please note how recessed rivets heads. On the lining should not be traces of lubrication. Connections on rivets, short to be durable declaring. Also, in the case of detection of oil stains, it is necessary to check in what condition is a gearbox seal of a gearbox. If he came into disrepair, then it is possible to replace it.
Next, check whether the springs are securely fixed in the hub sockets, trying to shift them manually. If this turns out simply, the disk is subject to replacement.
Look, there is no obstacle.
Spend an inspection of rubbing surfaces. There should be no scratches, signs of wear and overheating. If there are such, these nodes are subject to replacement.
If the rivets weaken, the disk changes completely.
Inspect the diaphragm springs. They should not have any cracks.
Inspect the taper. With a strong generation of its liner, it must be completely taped.
If the scuffing spying spring is in unsatisfactory state, it must be replaced.
Before you put the clutch, you need to see how easily the disk is moving along the slots of the gearbox. If necessary, it is necessary to identify and eliminate why there is a jealous, faulty parts are changing.
Before assembly, you must necessarily lubricate the hub with special oil.
The assembly occurs in the reverse order.
Anaerobic thread retainer should be applied to the threads of the bolts that the disk casing should be applied.
Bolts need to be tightened. The moment of effort 100 n / m.

Complexity

Lift

Not indicated

To begin with, you need to free up from above access to the box. To do this, you need to remove the battery, then the housing air filter And battery bracket. In the direction of taking the terminals and wires, after which disconnect the mass wire from the gearbox.

Now subdominate the front part of the Tiggo and remove the front wheels. Then you need to remove the plastic protective elements following the front bumper - left and right halves. Further substitute a jack under the subframe and unscrew the 4 fastener bolts of the subframe with the body. Also unscrew the nuts and remove the 2 mounting bolts of the steering rack to the subframe. From above in the photo shows a longitudinal bracket of the operator of the motor and gearbox ("ski"). It keeps in front of the front of the body, and in the rear, it is clamped between the subframe and the back of the box with long studs.

"Ski" is removed simultaneously with the subframe, for this it should be released in front - unscrew 2 bolts from beams and 2 fixing bolts of anterior engine support with "skiing". You can also unscrew the support not from the "ski", but from the engine block, and take the first to be removed with the support.

Now you need to disconnect the transverse levers from the ball supports. Separated from swivel fist Ball supports are not very easy, so you need a scissor puller with a wide stale (about 26 mm). Him and also good quality It is not easy enough to find, and to install the vertical puller, you need to unscrew the hub nut and separate the drive shaft with the outer cut.

Therefore, you can proceed easier - unscrew the 3 gun fixing nuts with the lever (2 below and 1 from above) and knock out 2 studs from the bottom up. To remove the hairpins will have to turn the fist.

Then we remove the jack, which holds the subframe and remove the balls from the grooves from the grooves. After that, the subframe will hang on the stabilizer. Meanwhile we remove the "ski". It is necessary to unscrew the 4 fastening bolts of the stabilizer bushings from the subframe, then remove the subframe with the levers.

Under the end of the preparatory stage, it is necessary to unscrew the backup support from the checkp and drain the oil from the box and dispensing.

We proceed to the longest stage of our repair - separation of the gearbox from the engine and the transfer box. It is easy to connect with the engine is quite simple - with the crankcase metal antist, 5 bolts and clutch crankcase connections (bells) with an engine block. All connecting elements are clearly visible and accessible. The starter from the side of the block enters the bell, it means that it is not necessary to remove it, it is necessary to simply unscrew 2 bolts.

Difficulties begin when unscrewing the CPP compounds with distribution. They are connected around the perimeter due to the studs M10 and the nuts 18 in the amount of 8 pieces. Moreover, 4 rear studs come out of the disassemble and are tightened with nuts from the gearbox, and 4 front studs - on the contrary. After unscrewed all the nuts and the gearbox bolts, disconnect the left band of the gearbox. Put the jack under the box, closer to the clutch card, appreciate the location of the center of mass. And unscrew the nut, pulling a long bolt from the silent block of the support. Under the engine crankcase, install, if possible, not a rigid stand, to hold, but could move a little.

At the initial stage of dusting, we make efforts - the gearbox is hanging not on the shafts, but on the centering bushings in the bolts on the bolts of the clutch crankcase. The difficulty of dominates due to the fixation of the shaft of the right drive in the differential at the expense of the locking ring. Therefore, you can endure in advance from the gearbox right-wheel drive, but you can not pull it out. Next, begin to swipe the box in the horizontal plane. At first, the checkpoint shifts only a few millimeters.

Then, inserting spacers in the gap, which was formed, continue to swing. When the retaining ring of the right drive begins to "give up" the gearbox is more willing. At the end, smoothly shaking the box, we take it from the engine, while holding down from falling from the jack. Next, remove the gearbox from the jack and gently lower it on the floor or on the pre-cooked substrate, paying attention to the corners of the left drive, since large distortions and the peeling of the anthers are not allowed.

Now slightly raise the engine with attached to it dispensing box So that access to all bolts of the clutch basket has been released. Thus, the gearbox is practically removed and does not interfere with the replacement of clutch. Flywheel, clutch basket and distribution are shown in the photo.

PPCs at the connection site with a transfer box, the hollow shaft of the drive drive and "that is the most inconvenient hairpin"

Next, it is necessary to evenly weaken and unscrew the clutch basket fixing bolts with the flywheel. Then remove the Chery basket, holds the driven disk at the same time. After that, we make an attentive inspection of the state. If the drive disk is transfused blue - it overheating.

Moreover, on the outside of the disk there may be cracks and flywheel can also burn. Before installing a new clutch, remove the dimensions for the centering device, i.e. The diameter of the primary gearbox shaft and the hole diameter in the crankshaft. To clarify, you need to take a 1/4 extension and wrap it with a tape for obtaining the necessary diameters, then insert into the slave disk and crankshaft. Such a centering is not accurate because there is a displacement due to the power of gravity, and our dimensions are not with zero tolerance.

Now we install the basket, sliding with it with bolts (you can only 3 out of 6) and, slightly pressing the slave disk, centen the last to the eye, aiming the eye exactly along the extension axis. This is necessary in order to install the gearbox, the primary shaft naturally entered the slots of the slave disk. With the normal mode of operation, the disk must automatically get up as it should be made after the first pressing on the clutch. Evenly, or rather, the cross will be tightened and tighten the basket bolts. From the side of the gearbox, we replace the release bearing, we estimate the condition of the fork, lubricate the slots of the primary shaft. The sleeve for which the release bearing is walking, no need to lubricate. Thus, everything is ready for the assembly. Before the installation of the CAT Tiggo, it must be installed on a jack with backups to exhibit it to the required height and at the same time aim, after which you can move in the direction of the engine.

So as not to interfere with the drive of the right wheel, simply take it for the internal shrus. With this position, the gearbox falls into place without any difficulty.

Instruments:

Screwdriver

Set of keys and heads

The clutch disk slip does not allow the car to operate, but allows you to get to the place of repair. It must be said about the somewhat unusual design of the clutch of this car.

It is screwed directly to the engine crankshaft (the flywheel is usually fastened), the pressure disk is mounted inside on it in the form of a spring diaphragm with a spa in the center.

He clamped between the basket and flywheel fixed on the basket. The disk splay (when the clutch pedal survival) presses the rod, the diaphragm straightens and its edges affect the petals of the basket - the clutch disc is free.

The rod passes through the hollow primary shaft, and from the end of the box rests In the radially stubborn bearing. It is on this bearing that the clutch shutdown lever affects.

In fact, this is not a Chinese invention - the design of the clutch and boxes from the 80s are widely used by Engineers VW Audi Group.
When replacing the worn clutch disk, it is recommended to change the thrust bearing and its rod for high-quality clutch operation.
1. First, disconnect, freeing the lock plate.

2. Remove the wire connector from the sensor rear stroke

3. Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position sensor.

5. And remove it by disconnecting the mass.

6. Disconnect two thrust of the Kulisi drive Shift.

8. Now unscrew the machine mounting nut on the hub and remove the wheelsAfter putting the car to the supports.

9. Unscrew the three bolts of the ball support And disconnect it from the lever.
10. Disconnect from the swivel fist steering cravings, Now the drive will easily reach the slot part of the hub.
11. Operations P.8.9,10 repeat, on the other hand.
12. Unscrew the bolt fastening the left gear support bolt.
13. We unscrew the fastening bolts of the cylinder block amplifier and reception tube.

Two under the exhaust manifold ...
... Two bolts under the oil filter.
By revealing three, removing the amplifier.
14. Now should be substituted under the engine reliable support And you can unscrew the front support bracket to the clutch.
15. Unscrew the bolts fastening the box to the engine.
Two bolts from the side oil filter.
Two more boxes.
16. Three bolts free the rear support bracket.
ATTENTION: For clarity, the photo is made with a driven drive. In our case, to replace the clutch, unscrew the drive not necessarily, it is sufficient to remove its slotted part from the hub. This will allow you to push and leave the box in a suspended state without removing it from under the car.
17. Move the gearbox Before the output of the primary shaft.
18. Having access to the flywheel (this is not a basket!), we unscrew the bolts of its attachment to the basket. ATTENTION: All bolts have a non-standard 9 mm head.
You should carefully inspect the flywheel - The surface on which the clutch disc should be perfectly smooth and the gear of the crown without damage. If necessary, replace the flywheel.
The surface of the clutch basket should be the same smooth (fastened to the crankshaft). If there is damage to the basket replace.
The arrow shows the spring that you want to remove to access the Basket Fastening Bolts to the flywheel (if you change).
19. Install a new clutch disc Speaking part of the hub outside and thoroughly exhibit it in the center. Attention: flywheel and basket are balancing together And change their position relative to the crankshaft is not allowed. For the correct assembly on the flywheel there are pins that need to be combined with a slot in the basket or using early tags.
20. Collect everything in reverse orderBy observing the torque of the threaded connections.
21. Before installing the wheels will be convenient replace thrust bearing And his rod.
22. From the end of the box neatly flexing the edge and remove the cover. With its significant deformation, it is possible to establish a new one.
23. We take out the thrust bearing with a magnet.
24. Remove the rod of the stubborn bearing.
25. Collect in reverse sequenceBy establishing new spare parts.
26. Adjust the clutch with a nut and sleeve sleeve.
27. After a small run, once again adjust the clutch - the free course of the lever must be 2-3 mm.
Move the lever until the moment of considerable resistance is free.
Attention: gearbox is sufficient heavyAnd the nuts of the drives on the hub of the wheels are tightened to a considerable moment so work is recommended to be carried out with an assistant.

Remove the engine, as prescribes the leadership, we did not become, but used the usual scheme for front drive - Sit down the box on the drives and take it down, thereby getting access to the clutch. In this case, there is a nuance in the form of a dispensing box, but it does not make cardinal changes.

Briefly algorithm actions such:

Free access to top
Disconnect gear shift cables, sensor wires, clutch cylinder
Remove the subframe with levers, disconnecting the ball bearings from the levers.
Remove the longitudinal "ski" and 2 engine supports
Merge from gearbox and rk
Substitute a jack under the checkpoint and remove the left PPP support
Unscrew the bolts of fastening the gearbox and starter, the nuts of the junction of the RK and PPC
Give the box to the left, with a turn to the front of omit on the stand ()
Change the clutch, collect in reverse order

Under the hood
We free access to the box from above. We remove the battery, the air filter housing, the battery bracket (the photo on it is carrying). We assign in the direction of the terminal and wires, disconnect the mass of the mass from the checkpoint.

We disconnect the gear selection cables (fixed with hoptes), unscrew the brackets of the cables from the box, and hang the cables to do not interfere.

Under the car
Drug the front of the car, remove the front wheels.

Remove the plastic elements of protection following the front bumper - left and right halves.

We substitute the jack under the subframe, we unscrew the 4 bolts of the subframe of the subframe to the body. We unscrew the nuts and pull out 2 bolts of the steering rack to the subframe. In the left side of the photo - a longitudinal bracket of engine supports and gearbox ("ski"). It is fixed in the front of the bottom transverse beam of the body, in the rear, it is clamped between the rear support of the gearbox and the subframe on long studs. "Ski" will be removed simultaneously with the subframe, for this we release it in front of the front part - we unscrew 2 bolts from the beam and 2 bolts of fastening the front engine support to the "ski". You can unscrew the support from the engine block, and not from the "ski" and remove the latter along with the support.

Disconnect the transverse levers from the ball supports. Separate ball supports from the swivel fist is not so simple - it will take either a scissor puller with a wide stale (approximately 26mm) - this is not easy to find good quality, and to set the vertical puller, you will have to unscrew the hub nut and separate the drive shaft with an external screen. Therefore, we do it easier - we unscrew the 3 screws for fastening the ball to the lever (2 below and one above) and knock 2 studs from the bottom up. To pull the studs, it will be necessary to rotate the fist.

After that, we remove the jack, sticking the subframe and remove the balls from the grooves from the grooves. Now the subframe remains hanging on the stabilizer. At the same time, we remove the "ski".

We unscrew the 4 bolts of fastening the bushings of the stabilizer from the subframe, we remove the subframe assembly with the levers.

On top of the preparatory procedures, we unscrew the back support from the checkpoint and drain the oil from the box and dispensing. In this case, the oil in the checkpoint was fresh and the questions did not cause, and the oil in the Republic of Kazakhstan after 45 TCM mileage already required the replacement. On magnetite drain plug A thick layer of condensed oil was found.

As the further course of the procedure showed - oil from the Republic of Kazakhstan can not drain, so we will leave it as a recommendation for control; It is easier to change it during such an operation than to look separately.

Disconnection
We proceed to the very long stage of communication with the Chinese designers - the separation of the gearbox from the engine and the dispensing box. The connection to the engine is sufficiently simple, approximately as on the VAZ 2108 - the metal boot of the crankcase on 5 bolts and bolts of the clutch crankcase (bell) with the engine unit. All of them are well available and visible. The starter enters the bell from the side of the block, so it is not required to remove it - just unscrew 2 bolts.

Difficulties occur when unscrewed gear connections with a transfer box. They are connected along the perimeter with pins M10 and nuts by 18 in the amount of 8 pieces. Of these, 4 rear studs come out of the Republic of Kazakhstan and are tightened with nuts from the side of the checkpoint, and the 4 fronts on the contrary. Below, on photographs of disconnected aggregates, you can clearly make sure the beauty of the plan. The greatest complexity represents the 2nd Nut on the front. Taking into account the long thread and the figured case of the dispensing, none of the available tools gave a unambiguous solution. The head of 18 with a square 3/8 is not subject to a rattle, the extension interferes with a squeeze on the Republic of Kazakhstan, there is no place to turn the onener key. The cardanchik came to the rescue on 3/8, but he did not have enough space to unscrew the nut to the end. And from the hand she did not want to go in any way, and hand there it is not very easy to get. Perhaps this nut is the most difficult part of the entire clutch replacement procedure.

When all nuts and fastening bolts are unscrewed, disconnect the left PPP support. We substitute the jack under the box, closer to the Carton Carton, roughly estimating the location of the center of mass. We unscrew the nut and remove the long bolt from the silent block of the support.

Access to the bracket bolts of this support to the checkpoint is difficult, so what is available to unscrew in the prescribed position, and which is not amenable to, such as the front left bolt - after lowering the box, approaching the wheel arch.

Under the engine crankcase, we make a stand, preferably not tough - to hold, but allowed some changes to the inclination. We used the old tire and wooden spacers.

Now everything is ready for the final jerk - dusting.

R assetovka
At the initial stage of dusting, efforts can be made - the checkpoint hangs not on the shafts, but on the centering bushings in the bolts on the bolts of the clutch crankcase.

The area is complicated by fixing the shaft of the right drive in the differential at the expense of the locking ring. Therefore, you can pre-pull the right drive from the box, but you can do without it. We start swing a box in a horizontal plane; Initially, the box shifts several millimeters.

Then, embroidering spacers into the resulting slot, we continue to swing - the retaining ring of the right drive "surrenders" and the box is more willing. Finally, smoothly shaking the box - we take it from the engine, holds from falling from the jack.

We remove the gearbox from the jack and gently omitting it on the floor (or the board, in our case), paying attention to the corners of the left drive - the big skews and the root of the anthers cannot be allowed.

Slightly lifting the engine, with the RK attached to it, so that you have access to all bolts of the clutch basket. And now admire the picture. The gearbox is removed, more precisely removed and does not interfere with changing the clutch.

Flywheel, clutch basket and dispensing box:

The gearbox is in place of the connection with the distribution, the hollow shaft of the RK drive, right above it "that is the most inconvenient stud":

And here is the culprit of the celebration - overheated clutch basket:

Replacing clutch
Uniformly weakening and unscrew the clutch basket fastening bolts to the flywheel. Remove the basket, not forgetting to hold the slave disk, we remove everything, we study the state.

The drive disk is overflowing blue, it overheating. Moreover, there are cracks on the outside of the disk, the flywheel also burned slightly:

Before putting a new clutch, remove the dimensions for the centering device - the diameter of the hole in the crankshaft and the diameter of the primary shaft of the checkpoint. For the centering we take the extender by 1/4, and wrap it with a tape for obtaining the desired diameters, after which we insert into the slave disk and the crankshaft. This is not accurate centering, because There is a displacement under the action of gravity, and we do not have the size with zero tolerance.

Next, we put a basket, slightly bent it with bolts (you can only three out of six) and, slightly pressing the slave disk, centen the last to the eye, aiming the eye strictly along the extension axis. This is necessary in order for the primary shaft when installing the gearbox, it went into the slots of the slave disk. In the normal mode of operation, the disc will automatically rise as expected after the first pressing on the clutch.

Uniformly (crosswise) twist and tighten the basket bolts.

From the side of the PPC, we change the release bearing, inspect the condition of the fork, lubricate the slotes of the primary shaft. The sleeve at which the release bearing slides does not lubricate.

Everything is ready for the assembly.

Installation of PPC
The most complex in the installation of the checkpoint is its weight. Getting into the slots of the slave disk on weight - inconvenient even on the front-wheel drive vehicles, not to mention the need to dock with a transfer box. Therefore, to do it on weight, even if you are not an option.

To install the PPC, it first needs to be installed on the jack and the backups to set it on the desired height and at the same time orient - to aim and then move in the direction of the engine. So that the drive of the right wheel does not interfere - it is simply assigned to the internal silver. In this position, the PPC gets into place without much difficulties (if the slave disk is well-written), after which it is fixed by bolts for the engine block, and the nuts for the heel dispensing.

Next, the whole design rises and the left piping support is installed. After fixing, you can set the right-hand drive to place - rotate slightly enough to correctly orient on the slots (if you did not immediately enter it) and press the characteristic click of the locking ring.

The nuts of the CAT connections and the RC are not as an example better by unscrewing, the benefit was the time to clean and lubricate the thread.

Further installation is strictly in order to remove. Do not forget to lubricate the bolts of the oil and check the tight.

A patient - Chery Tiggo. 2006, full-wheel drive, 2.4 liter engine; Symptoms - clutch slip.
A new clutch kit was bought - basket, slave disk and frosting bearing, all firm elements Valeo Korean production.

The car was assembled in Russia, complaints about the quality of the assembly did not arise. Perhaps the car "stretched" in the process pre-sale preparation - Very many, but almost all easily accessible bolts and nuts were tightened with "all proletarian hatred." Here, the design flaw - the overwhelming majority of the bolts are simply redundant in diameter and length, while they are very susceptible to oxidation (quality of steel or processing lame). Therefore, the process of unscrewing bolts occupies much longer than usual.

So, for example, the plastic front protection flap is screwed to the longitudinal beam with two 4 cm bolts M8 (not counting 3 more M6 bolts and multiple self-samples around the perimeter). At the expense of oxides, almost the entire length had to be unscrewed with a pipe - and about 5 minutes to a couple of bolts.

Second constructive feature - Often an uncomfortable location of fasteners and its oversupply. As a result, you have to use a very diverse tool (cardans, through keys, etc.) and carry out extra dismantling operations to access an uncomfortable nut.

Corrosion was also noted at the bottom edge of the spars - for the car with age 5 years and mileage 45 thousand km is an unpleasant moment. However, the state of the thresholds did not cause questions.

The overall impression is the Chinese constructors mysterious and unpredictable. The maintenance of the car is clearly not in the first place. By "Murzilka", the clutch replacement involves removing the engine and the CAT from the car.

Implementation scheme full drive Chery Tiggo is given at the end of this article.

Removing the checkpoint and clutch

To remove the engine, as prescribes the leadership, we did not become, but used the usual scheme for the front drive - to post the box on the drives and take it down, thereby getting access to the clutch. In this case, there is a nuance in the form of a dispensing box, but it does not make cardinal changes.

Briefly algorithm actions such:

Free access to the gearbox from above
Disconnect gear shift cables, sensor wires, clutch cylinder
Remove the subframe with levers, disconnecting the ball bearings from the levers.
Remove the longitudinal "ski" and 2 engine supports
Merge oil from gearbox and RK
Substitute a jack under the checkpoint and remove the left PPP support
Unscrew the bolts of fastening the gearbox and starter, the nuts of the junction of the RK and PPC
Divide the box to the left, with a turn to the front, omit on the stands (floor)
Change the clutch, collect in reverse order

Under the hood

We free access to the box from above. We remove the battery, the air filter housing, the battery bracket (the photo on it is carrying). We assign in the direction of the terminal and wires, disconnect the mass of the mass from the checkpoint.

We disconnect the gear selection cables (fixed with hoptes), unscrew the brackets of the cables from the box, and hang the cables to do not interfere.

Under the car

Drug the front of the car, remove the front wheels.

Remove the plastic elements of protection following the front bumper - left and right halves.

We unscrew the 4 bolts of fastening the bushings of the stabilizer from the subframe, we remove the subframe assembly with the levers.

On top of the preparatory procedures, we unscrew the back support from the checkpoint and drain the oil from the box and dispensing. In this case, the oil in the checkpoint was fresh and the questions did not cause, and the oil in the Republic of Kazakhstan after 45 TCM mileage already required the replacement. On the magnetite drain plug, a thick layer of condensed oil chipped was found:

Separation of the gearbox and engine with distribution

We proceed to the very long stage of communication with the Chinese designers - the separation of the gearbox from the engine and the dispensing box. The connection to the engine is sufficiently simple, approximately as on the VAZ 2108 - the metal boot of the crankcase on 5 bolts and bolts of the clutch crankcase (bell) with the engine unit. All of them are well available and visible. The starter enters the bell from the side of the block, so it is not required to remove it - just unscrew 2 bolts.

Difficulties occur when unscrewed gear connections with a transfer box. They are connected along the perimeter of the M10 studs and 18 nuts in the amount 8 pieces Of these, 4 rear studs come out of the Republic of Kazakhstan and are tightened with nuts from the side of the checkpoint, and the 4 fronts on the contrary. Below, on photographs of disconnected aggregates, you can clearly make sure the beauty of the plan.

For comparison: on Toyota RAV4 2 generations, the layout of which inherits Tiggo, the same nuts - by 14, therefore access to them is much more convenient.

The greatest complexity represents the 2nd Nut on the front. Taking into account the long thread and the figure of the dispensing, none of the available tools gave an unambiguous solution. The head of 18 with a square of 3/8 is not subject to a ratchet, the extension interferes with the reflection on the Republic of Kazakhstan, there is no place to turn the onener key. The cardanchik came to the rescue on 3/8, but he did not have enough space to unscrew the nut to the end. And from the hand she did not want to go in any way, and hand there it is not very easy to get. Perhaps this nut is the most difficult part of the entire clutch replacement procedure.

Under the engine crankcase, we make a stand, preferably not tough - to hold, but allowed some changes to the inclination. We used the old tire and wooden spacers.

Now everything is ready for the final jerk - dusting.

Razjaka

At the initial stage of dusting, efforts can be made - the checkpoint hangs not on the shafts, but on the centering bushings in the bolts on the bolts of the clutch crankcase.

Then, embroidering spacers into the resulting slot, we continue to swing - the retaining ring of the right drive "surrenders" and the box is more willing.

Finally, smoothly shaking the box - we take it from the engine, holds from falling from the jack.

Flywheel, clutch basket and dispensing box:

The gearbox is in place of the connection with the distribution, the hollow shaft of the RK drive, right above it "that is the most inconvenient stud":

And here is the culprit of the celebration - overheated clutch basket:

Replacing clutch

Uniformly weakening and unscrew the clutch basket fastening bolts to the flywheel. Remove the basket, not forgetting to hold the slave disk, we remove everything, we study the state.

The drive disk is overflowing blue, it overheating. Moreover, cracks are observed on the outside of the disk:

There is no special complaints to the slave disk.

The flywheel also burned slightly:

Uniformly (crosswise) twist and tighten the basket bolts.

From the side of the PPC, we change the release bearing, lubricate the slots of the primary shaft. The sleeve at which the release bearing slides does not lubricate.

Everything is ready for the assembly.

Installation of PPC

The most complex in the installation of the checkpoint is its weight. Getting into the slots of the slave disk on weight - inconvenient even on the front-wheel drive vehicles, not to mention the need to dock with a transfer box. Therefore, to do it on weight, even if you are not an option.

The nuts of the CAT connections and the RC are not as an example better by unscrewing, the benefit was the time to clean and lubricate the thread.

Further installation is strictly in order to remove. Do not forget to lubricate the bolts of the oil and check the tight.

Sales of full drive

The four-wheel drive is implemented without differential, the rear axle is connected automatically through the electromagnetic clutch. Thus, in normal motion modes, this is a front-wheel drive car, and in the case of slipping it becomes all-wheel drive, and with the "inter-axis differential".

This is a very dangerous implementation option, because Connection rear bridge It can occur in a critical situation, for example, driving in a turn, and a sharp change of behavior with front-wheel drive to all-wheel drive, and even with "locking" (the slip of one of the wheels will be guaranteed), may lead to unpleasant consequences. Therefore, to combat this ailion, some Tiggo owners are displayed on the panel, completely disconnecting the coupling. It would be reasonable to display the 3-position switch, as is done on the all-wheel drive SUZUKI SX4 - "zp is turned off", "connects automatically", "always".