Do I need to lubricate the polyurethane bushings of the stabilizer? How to independently eliminate the creaking of stabilizer bushings on a Lada Vesta

As Vesta was used, defects began to emerge, which, in principle, is normal for any new model. Typically, such defects do not in any way affect safety and other vital important parameters cars. However, when some little thing constantly annoys, this one begins to irritate. This is exactly the situation with the Vesta stabilizer bushings. Therefore, you need to understand the situation and try to resolve the issue.

What's the matter?

The reason for the dissatisfaction of many Newsmakers is the creaking. It's no secret that stabilizer bushings domestic model very soon they begin to creak, and sometimes this happens almost immediately after purchase. There have been cases when the car did not have time to travel even 1,500 km, and some manage to drive without making noise for less than 1,000 km. As for the frequency of squeaking, surveys show that this happens in approximately 60% of cars.

Creaking is typical for many Vestas

This creak can be clearly heard in the video.

It is also worth noting that such a squeak is rarely heard constantly. Usually it appears and then disappears. In this case, the problem is extremely clear - the quality of the material or the manufacturing of the components is not high enough.

In this case, there are two solutions:

1. Contacting the dealer;
2. Independent work.

In general, both options are working, however, both the first and second have certain disadvantages.

Contacting the dealer and AvtoVAZ’s position

If you have decided to contact a Lada dealership, you will most likely be unpleasantly surprised. The fact is that the Russian automaker, although it recognized the problem, took the simplest path to solving the issue.

At the dealership, the bushings are lubricated with grease.

The craftsmen do not replace the bushings, but simply lubricate them with PMS 400 grease. To carry out lubrication work, the unit is disassembled and then reassembled. PMS 400 is an emulsion-based lubricant with adhesive properties. It is widely used in defoamers and in plastic-to-metal contact areas. It has hydraulic, shock-absorbing, cooling and damping properties.

The result of using this lubricant is twofold. The Vesta stabilizer bushings actually stop squeaking, but this does not last long. The reason is that the lubricant is quickly washed out (literally within 100-150 km) and the sounds are heard again. This moment is especially pronounced in the fall, during rainy weather.

Independent work

In this case, there are several ways:

1. Bushing lubrication;
2. Replacement with analogues.

Bushing lubrication

If you choose this option, everything is done exactly the same as when contacting a dealership. However, car owners choose the lubricant themselves. Some people buy regular mastic, others use foreign lubricants, for example, Japanese ones.

Owners buy different lubricants

Be that as it may, these are only temporary measures, since mastic and other lubricants are still quickly washed out. It may last a little longer, but that doesn't solve the problem.

Replacement with analogues

According to reviews from owners, most often either bushings from a Chevrolet Niva or components from a KIA are used.

Bushings from Chevrolet Niva

Elements from this model are suitable for Lada Vesta, which can be bought at almost any car store. In addition, they can be ordered online using the following article numbers:

— 2123-2906046;

— 2123-2906040.

Stabilizer bushings from Chevrolet Niva

The second type of product has larger dimensions, so it is used more often. The price of bushings from Chevrolet Niva is about 150 rubles per pair. However, there are also polyurethane products on sale, which are often painted in bright colors (yellow, red, etc.). The price of polyurethane products reaches 250 rubles per piece.

You can purchase products from one of the resources below:

1. http://www.autopiter.ru/goods/21232906046/rossiya/id51385878
2. https://niva-lada4x4.ru/product_info.php?products_id=4152
3. https://tankomobile.ru/polyurethan-chevy-niva.html
4. http://www.nivashop.ru/catalog.html?idc=420&stype=4

However, Vest owners note that elements from the ChevyNiva also often creak, and it doesn’t make much difference what material they are made of - rubber or polyurethane.

Bushings from KIA

These are more expensive components, which can be purchased under article number KSBSOULF or 54813-2K100. The price for such products is significantly higher than for similar ones from ChevyNiva. Usually the cost varies between 400-650 rubles, but the price can reach 850 rubles per piece. Therefore, it is recommended to monitor offers from various suppliers before purchasing. In this case, you need to buy only original products. Purchasing a non-original one is fraught with the same creaking noise, which is extremely unpleasant, because bushings from a Korean manufacturer are not cheap.

Products from Kia

You can purchase them on one of the following sites:

1. http://koreanaparts.ru/product/548132K100/730
2. https://www.autodoc.ru/part/hyundai-kia—647/548132k100/
3. http://www.autopiter.ru/goods/548132k100/hyundai-kia/id11105217
4. https://plentycar.ru/autopart/1981834

In addition, it is worth taking into account the configuration of parts from HYUNDAI-KIA, which differs significantly from that of the Lada Vesta. For this reason, along with the bushings, you need to buy brackets for them, which are sold under article number 54814-1G000. The price tag for them ranges from 300 to 500 rubles per piece.

Comparison of Russian and Korean elements

You can order brackets online at the following addresses:

1. http://koreanaparts.ru/product/548141G000/730
2. https://nomer52.ru/kronshtejn-vtulki-stabilizatora_hyundai_elantra-hd_548141g000_mobis_i126/
3. https://www.autodoc.ru/part/hyundai-kia—647/548141g000/
4. http://www.autopiter.ru/goods/548141g000/hyundai-kia/id11105233

Bracket for bushings from Kia

Installation

In general, the algorithm for replacing standard stabilizer bushings with an analogue one is simple and, by and large, the same for components from the Chevrolet Niva and for parts from KIA. The only difference is that, in the case of parts from KIA, you will have to install the purchased bracket.

As for the Chevy Niva, the bushings from it will need to be modified - it is necessary to make a slot on the side, and then grind the sides down to the same size as on Vesta.

The replacement process itself begins with installation Lada Vesta onto the overpass, after which you need to thoroughly clean the bolts that secure the stabilizer bar from dirt. Next, you need to arm yourself with a wrench and a Torx T40 bit, with which one bolt from the bracket is completely unscrewed (located further from the steering rack). The second bolt is also unscrewed, but not completely, but enough so that the mounting bracket can be moved to the side.

When the bolts are unscrewed, all that remains is to move the bracket and remove the bushing itself. A pre-prepared bushing is placed in its place, and the bolts are tightened. The second element changes similarly.

This method works provided that components from ChevyNiva are used. If you decide to install bushings from KIA, you will have to completely remove the brackets. In this case, simply unscrewing the bolts will not work, since the screw, which is located closer to the steering rack, rests on the clamp that secures the rack boot.

It can be seen that it will not be possible to unscrew both bolts

In this situation there are 4 options:

1. Turn the clamp itself;
2. Rotate the boot (together with the clamp, of course);
3. Remove the rack protection, then loosen its fastening bolts and slightly lift the rack up;
4. Remove the rail completely.

Bushing from Kia

This will allow you to replace the bracket along with the bushing.

And also the bracket from it

As you can see, there are several options for getting rid of creaking Lada Vesta bushings, which differ strikingly in both the effort involved and the financial and time costs.

Stabilizers are responsible for the car's ability to maintain balance when cornering. The bushings, in turn, protect them from wear at the attachment point, and also reduce vibration when driving on uneven roads. However, squeaks may occur while driving, even if the parts are original and have recently been replaced. To get rid of unpleasant symptoms, you can lubricate the bushings, but it is important to carry out this operation correctly. To do this, it is convenient to use simple techniques to determine the need for lubrication and select the appropriate product.

The main purpose of the bushings is to dampen vibrations that appear when moving along the road surface. They are installed only on modern cars and protect suspension elements from wear. The shape of these products depends on the make and model of the car. The part in contact with the metal is covered with a protective fabric; polyurethane models often have a corrugated surface.

Stabilizer bushings

Depending on the material, bushings are divided into two types - rubber and polyurethane. The original ones are always made of rubber and are black or greenish in color. Polyurethane began to be used in this industry not so long ago; usually the products have a bright color, for example, yellow or red.

If a part is made of polyurethane, it can withstand higher mechanical loads than rubber and does not corrode like metal. The operating temperature range for this material is from -60 to +80 degrees. It is not destroyed under the influence of lubricants and petroleum products. Lubrication will not only not harm polyurethane bushings, but will also increase their service life.

Lubrication is required when replacing polyurethane bushings- the lubricant composition simplifies installation and reduces wear of the part. In the instructions, manufacturers usually indicate the need for this procedure. Even the presence of an inner fabric layer does not help, because it wears out quickly. Therefore, you cannot do without lubrication; otherwise, a month after installation, unpleasant squeaks may appear, especially noticeable in damp weather.

Original bushings are always made of rubber, and many people believe that they do not need to be lubricated. In fact, silicone not only does not destroy this material, but also extends its life. Therefore, it is advisable to treat rubber elements with lubricant, but fat-free. In any case, it will not interfere with twisting, accumulate dirt or corrode the product.

Lubricated bushing

Manufacturers sometimes supply spare parts without lubricant, or apply it in too thin a layer. If a motorist processes the bushing on his own, the lubricant is washed out over time or mixed with dust. Therefore, for the correct operation of this unit, most often it is not enough to replace the stabilizers. But it is also important to correctly determine that the reason is precisely the lack of lubricant.

If the polyurethane is dry, or the lubricant is mixed with soil particles, re-lubrication is definitely required. Most often, contamination occurs in winter, wet weather or off-road driving.

Stabilizer bushing in a car

When a knocking sound appears under the feet of the driver and front passenger, this indicates problems with the suspension. The cause of the breakdown is determined during an inspection in the pit, since without diagnostics an accurate diagnosis cannot be made. Often knocking noises are caused by wear of the bushings caused by dirt. Also, play in the ball joints of the heavily loaded parts of the stabilizer - the links - is usually detected.

Attention!

It is recommended to lubricate stabilizer bushings when the bushings are new or almost new and are suitable for further use - there is no damage, severe abrasions, etc. Otherwise, it is strongly recommended to replace the bushings.

Many companies supply bushing kits with grease included. In this case, you don’t need to buy anything additional. But often such products are not of sufficient quality, or there are too few of them, or they may not be suitable for specific operating conditions. A couple of months after installing the consumable, squeaks may appear due to leaching or contamination of the lubricant. In the cases described, re-processing is required, and a new composition may have to be selected.

Bushing grease is often sold along with the bushings.

There is an opinion that if the car is used for off-road driving, soil sticks to the lubricant, which causes accelerated wear bushings This is due to the fact that many people associate lubricant with greasy machine oil. But only fat-free substances are suitable for these parts, and dirt does not stick to them.

The bushing should not be confused with a silent block containing metal elements. No matter how tightly the clamp is attached, the stabilizer will spin when driving on a road with potholes. And without lubrication, this mechanism will quickly fail.

Stabilizer silent blocks. These are NOT bushings!

If the suspension is working properly, it is not necessary to unscrew the parts and check the amount of lubricant. As long as there are no unpleasant knocking or squeaking noises, no maintenance is required. When a spare part does not fit in shape or diameter, unpleasant noises most often appear during trips. But by lubricating this unit, the motorist will not solve the problem; he will have to install a product that is suitable in size. This also applies to damaged bushings with cracks or tears - they only need to be replaced.

Left - new bushing, right - old damaged bushing

Rubber bushings often do not require lubrication, unless the manual says so, or there are no squeaks. Usually they are also treated before installation, but with different substances. However, the stabilizer must be cleaned of contaminants, and the part in contact with it must be treated with silicone lubricant composition. Often, in this case, talc - baby powder - is used to reduce friction and preserve the safety of the installed part. In most cases, it is already applied by the manufacturer to the inside of the product.

It is better to use silicone-based products that do not react with polyurethane and rubber. They do not contain oils, which collect dirt and lead to accelerated wear of the unit. They are also recommended by General Motors specialists. For best result They use the product in aerosol form for treatment, and apply the same product from a tube. Below are the most common products containing silicone:

• Silicot is universal, with a thick consistency, suitable for use at temperatures from -50 to +230 degrees.
• Liqui Moly Silicon Spray - colorless, made in the form of an aerosol, prevents parts from drying out, protects against ultraviolet radiation.
• Cyatim-221 is made on the basis of silicone oil, yellowish-brown in color, supplied in metal cans. Designed for contacting rubber-metal surfaces, does not dissolve in water. Operating range: minimum temperature - 60 degrees, maximum + 150.

For help in choosing a lubricant, you can see the table below.

The bushings usually come with lithium grease, yellow-orange in color, made from petroleum products. The disadvantage of this method is that lithol is washed off with water, but it is often used in car services. You can look at the recommendations on the manufacturer's website. It is usually advised to buy silicone-based products.

Lubricated bushing

A more modern solution is Teflon lubricants, but they wash out quickly. Their advantage is improved protective properties and the ability to significantly reduce friction. Products in this range include Liqui Moly. Many automakers approve CV joint grease containing lithium soap thickener.

If the model is designed for injection, you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. Often, universal mineral lubricants with the addition of lithium are used for this purpose. Liqui Moly LM 50 or Mobilgrease XHP 222 is suitable for this purpose. VTV-1 technical petroleum jelly or polyurethane talc cannot be processed- these products are used only for rubber.

For more information about which lubricant is suitable for which types of bushings, see the table below.

1. The part needs to be removed, this will require some preparatory work. The car is placed over inspection hole or put it on a lift and set the parking brake.
   
2. Instead of a stop, place a drinking water canister under the middle part of the stabilizer. Then when removed it will not fall to the ground.
   
3. Unscrew the nuts of the stabilizer holders.
   
4. Unscrew the clamps and remove the bushings.
   
5. The installation site is cleaned of dirt, rust, and rubber residues. If there are abrasions or potholes on the metal, they need to be rubbed with sandpaper, polished and coated with nitro enamel.
   
6. At heavy wear parts are replaced. Then the surface is degreased and wiped dry with a piece of cloth.
   
7. The inner surface of the bushing is lubricated silicone grease from a tube.
   
8. Then the part is placed on the stabilizer rod.
   
9. The outer surface of the consumable is also treated with a lubricant.
   
10. Next, attach the clamps back and tighten the nuts. Excess lubricant is wiped off.
    

Specialists service center or the company that sells the bushings can handle installation and lubrication. Advantages this method- the owner of the car will receive a guarantee, and if consumables fail, they will replace them. You also don’t have to worry about selecting suitable lubricants yourself.

Stabilizers are responsible for the vehicle's stability on the road. To eliminate noise and vibration from the operation of the components of the stabilizers, special bushings are used - elastic elements that give smooth operation.

What is a bushing? An elastic part is created by casting from rubber or polyurethane. Its shape remains virtually unchanged for different car models, but sometimes has some features depending on the design of the stabilizer. To increase performance characteristics bushings, sometimes they have bosses and grooves. They strengthen the structure and allow parts to last longer, and also protect against mechanical stress that can damage them.

When is the transverse stabilizer bushing replaced?

The degree of wear of the bushing can be determined during a routine inspection. Cracks, changes in rubber properties, abrasions- all this suggests that part needs to be changed. Bushings are usually replaced every 30,000 km mileage Experienced owners advise changing all bushings at once, regardless of their external condition.

During a routine inspection, the bushings may become dirty. They should be cleaned of dirt so as not to provoke accelerated wear of the part.

Unscheduled replacement of bushings is necessary when the following symptoms occur:

• steering wheel play when the car turns;
• noticeable vibration of the steering wheel;
• body roll, accompanied by characteristic unusual sounds (clicks, squeaks);
• vibration in the car suspension, accompanied by extraneous noise;
• when driving in a straight line, the car pulls to the side;
• general instability.

Detection similar problems requires urgent diagnosis. Primary attention should be paid to the bushings. By replacing them, you can check the operation of the car, and if signs of malfunction remain, an additional inspection should be carried out.

Replacing front stabilizer bushings

Regardless of the car model, the general procedure for replacing bushings remains the same. Only the instruments and some details of the procedure change. Guess what exactly needs to be done as additional action, even a novice driver can do it.

Front stabilizer bushing

To do this you must follow the following points:

1. Place the car stationary on a pit or lift.
2. Using tools, loosen the bolts of the front wheels.
3. Remove the car wheels completely.
4. Unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer.
5. Separate the struts and stabilizer.
6. Loosen the rear bolts securing the bracket framing the bushing and unscrew the front ones.
7. Using available tools, remove dirt from the area where the new bushings will be installed.
8. Using silicone spray or soap solution, thoroughly lubricate the inside of the bushings.
9. Install the bushings and perform a series of procedures inverse to those listed to return the car to working condition.

To install new bushings on some car models, it may be necessary to remove the crankcase protection. This will make the replacement process easier.

Replacement rear bushings stabilizer is carried out similarly. The only thing is that removing the front bushings is sometimes more difficult due to the complexity of the car's front design. If the driver manages to change the front bushings, then he can probably cope with replacing the rear bushings.

Often the reason for replacing bushings is that they squeak. This factor, although not critical, still causes inconvenience to many drivers and passengers.

Stabilizer bushings creaking

Causes of squeaks

Often the owners passenger cars They complain about the creaking of the stabilizer bushings. It often occurs during frost or dry weather. However, the conditions of occurrence manifest themselves individually. The main reasons for this problem are:

• low quality of the material from which the stabilizer bushings are made;
• rubber hardening in the cold, causing it to become inelastic and squeak;
• significant wear of the bushing or its failure;
• design features of the car (for example, Lada Vesta).

Methods for solving the problem

Some car owners try to lubricate the bushings with various lubricants(including ). However, as practice shows, this only gives temporary effect(and in some cases it doesn’t help at all). Any lubricant attracts dirt and debris, thus forming an abrasive. And this leads to a decrease in the life of the bushing and the stabilizer itself. Therefore, we do not recommend that you use any lubricants.

In addition, it is not recommended to lubricate the bushings due to the fact that this violates the principle of their operation. After all, they are designed to tightly hold the stabilizer. Being essentially a torsion bar, it works in torsion, creating resistance to the car's roll when cornering. Therefore, it must be securely fastened in the sleeve. And if there is lubrication, this becomes impossible, since it can still turn, making a creaking noise again.

The recommendations of most car manufacturers regarding this defect are: replacing bushings. So, general advice For car owners who are faced with the problem of squeaking from the stabilizer, drive with the squeaking noise for a certain time (one or two weeks is enough). If the bushings do not “grind in” (especially for new bushings), they will need to be replaced.

In some cases it helps replacing rubber bushings with polyurethane ones. However, this depends on the machine and the bushing manufacturer. Therefore, responsibility for the decision to install polyurethane bushings lies solely with the car owner.

Stabilizer bushings must be replaced every 20-30 thousand kilometers. Look for the specific value in the manual for your car.

To solve the problem, some car owners wrap the part of the stabilizer that is inserted into the bushing with electrical tape, thin rubber (for example, a piece of a bicycle tube) or cloth. Original bushings (for example, Mitsubishi) have a fabric insert inside. This solution will allow the stabilizer to be “seated” more tightly in the bushing and will relieve the car owner from unpleasant sounds.

Description of the problem for specific vehicles

According to statistics, owners of the following cars most often encounter the problem of creaking stabilizer bushings: Lada Vesta, Volkswagen Polo, Skoda Rapid, Renault Megane. Let us describe their features and the replacement process:

• Lada Vesta. The reason for the creaking of the stabilizer bushings on this machine is suspension structure feature. The fact is that Vesta’s stabilizer strut travel has become greater than that of previous VAZ models. Their struts were attached to the levers, while Vesta's were attached to the shock absorbers. Therefore, previously the stabilizer rotated less and did not cause unpleasant sounds. In addition, Vesta has large suspension travel, which causes the stabilizer to rotate more strongly. There are two ways out of this situation - shorten the suspension stroke (lower the landing of the car), or use special lubricant(manufacturer's recommendation). It is better to use a lubricant that is resistant to washout for these purposes. silicone based. Do not use lubricants that are aggressive towards rubber (also do not use WD-40).

Replacing stabilizer bushings on a Volkswagen Polo

• Volkswagen Polo. Replacing stabilizer bushings is not difficult. To do this, you need to remove the wheel and place the car on a support (for example, a wooden structure or a jack) to relieve stress on the stabilizer. To dismantle the bushing, unscrew the two 13mm bolts that secure the bushing mounting bracket, then remove it and take out the bushing itself. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Another common method that allows you to get rid of squeaks in the bushings of a Volkswagen Polo is to place a piece of an old timing belt between the body and the bushing. In this case, the belt teeth should be directed towards the bushing. In this case, it is necessary to make small reserves of area on all sides. This procedure is performed for all bushings. Original solution problems - installing bushings from Toyota Camry.

Elements in the design of a car that perform the function of ensuring stability while driving on the road are called stabilizers. To ensure silent, soft and smooth operation, stabilizers are installed on bushings. Stabilizer bushings are relatively soft and elastic rubber parts.

What is a stabilizer bushing?

The bushing is made by casting. Material used for manufacturing: rubber or polyurethane. The shape of this part is almost the same for all car models. To strengthen the design of the bushings, grooves and bosses are made into them.

When should I replace the front stabilizer bar bushings?

By carrying out a visual inspection of the stabilizer bushings from time to time, you can identify their wear. If there are cracks on the bushing, or the shape has changed (there are large abrasions), then the stabilizer bushings must be replaced.

The service life of stabilizer bushings for most brands and models of cars is 30 thousand km. If only one bushing is worn out, it is recommended to replace the complete set in order to increase the time between overhauls for replacing bushings.

If dirt is visible during visual inspection, it is better to clean them, thereby protecting them from accelerated wear.

Signs when it is necessary to change the stabilizer bushings in a car:

• if there is wheel play when turning;
• if the steering wheel shakes;
• if there are squeaks when the car tilts (roll);
• if the suspension vibrates (there is extraneous noise);
• if when driving straight the car pulls to the left or right;
• and, if at all, there is instability while driving.

These signs, first of all, indicate wear of the stabilizer bushings. The same signs may also be accompanied by wear of silent blocks. Such problems are eliminated by subsequent work on wheel alignment. Therefore, they should be checked and carried out renovation work with your own or someone else’s hands to replace stabilizer bushings. Play can also appear if the wheel is severely imbalanced. It disrupts the balancing when hitting a hole, or, for example, when pumping to close a puncture.

How to change the front stabilizer bushings of a car

Although there are a huge number of brands and models of cars, the principle and procedure for replacing front bushings is practically the same. The main difference is in the tools used.

The correct procedure for replacing the front bushings is:

1. Place the car on a lift (if available) or place it above an inspection hole.
2. Loosen the front wheel bolts.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Then the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer should be unscrewed.
5. Disconnect.
6. Then the rear bracket mounting bolts should be loosened and the front bolts should be unscrewed.
7. Clean the bushing installation areas from dirt.
8. New bushings should be lubricated on the inside with soapy water or silicone grease.
9. Install the bushings and perform the reverse steps to disassembly.

In some car designs, it will be more convenient to replace the front bushings if you first remove the engine crankcase protection.

The rear stabilizer bushings are changed in the same way as the front ones. Usually, the front ones are more difficult to remove than the rear ones. When the rear bushings wear out, a squeak appears.

Creak of stabilizer bushings

The driver and passengers often feel a squeaking sound when the car is moving. They especially begin to creak in severe frosts.

Let's look at the reasons why bushings squeak:

1. The bushings were made of low grade material.
2. In the cold, rubber becomes like oak and loses elasticity, which is why squeaks appear.
3. The bushing is badly worn.

Ways to eliminate the creaking of car stabilizer bushings:

Logically, in order to eliminate the squeak, you need to lubricate the bushings, which is what some drivers do. But, lubricant, be it lithol 24, various oils, - all this attracts dust and sand. Adhering abrasives will only cause the bushings to wear out quickly.

Also, lubrication will lead to a partial loss of function of the bushings themselves, since they must tightly hold the stabilizers. The bushings are torsional and therefore protect against vehicle roll. For the bushings to function properly, they need to be seated tightly. And, if you lubricate them, they will already slide and can rotate.

There are ways craftsmen to improve the efficiency of stabilizer bushings. They wrap some of the bushings with electrical tape to make sure they fit tightly.

The video shows the process of replacing conventional bushings with polyurethane ones.