How to change the timing belt on an 8-valve Kalina. Timing belt Lada Kalina: replacement and maintenance

This car from Russia belongs to the second group of small class cars. Manufacturers began developing the design of the Lada Kalina back in 1993, and it went into production in November 2004.

According to the results of a customer survey, this car took fourth place in the ranking of the popularity of cars in Russia. The engines of this model are equipped with a belt drive of the valve mechanism, so owners of this vehicle, and it will also be useful for everyone interested to know how to replace the timing belt on an 8-valve Lada Kalina.

This power unit is an injection Gas engine with a working volume of 1600 cm3. This is a modernized version of the VAZ 2111 engine. The cylinder block is cast from cast iron, four cylinders are located in one row. The valve train of this engine has eight valves. The injector made it possible to significantly improve the car’s dynamics and fuel economy. Its parameters comply with Euro-2 standards.

Used in the valve mechanism drive toothed belt, which slightly reduced the cost power unit, but requires high-quality, timely maintenance of the timing drive. The design of the piston head provides recesses that completely eliminate the possibility of damage to the valve mechanism if the timing belt is damaged or installed incorrectly. Manufacturers guarantee a motor life of 150 thousand km; in practice, it can be more than 250 thousand km.

Replacement procedure

The operation is not particularly difficult and does not require any special equipment, may well be done by the hands of the car owner. In addition to the regular set wrenches, you will need a good slotted and flathead screwdriver. Car jack, stand car body, wheel chocks, a key for turning the roller in the tensioner.
When replacing, you can use any flat horizontal platform on which the machine is installed. The vehicle operating instructions recommend replacing the belt at 50 thousand km, but many owners perform it earlier, at approximately 30 thousand km.

Replacing the timing belt Kalina 8 valves will take place in the following order:

• On installed machine delay hand brake, under rear wheels install wheel chocks. Use a wheel wrench to remove the wheel bolts of the right front wheel.
• Using a car jack, lift the front side of the car from right side, install a stand under the body threshold, remove front wheel from this side.
• Open the hood engine compartment, since further work will be carried out there.
• To dismantle the timing belt in the timing drive, it is necessary to remove the plastic protective cover, which is secured with three 10mm socket bolts.

• The next step is to remove the belt in the generator drive. You will need a “13” wrench, which is used to unscrew the tensioner nut of the generator set and move the generator as close as possible to the cylinder block body. After such actions, the drive is easily removed from the pulleys.
• Now install the timing drive according to the marks. You will need a socket wrench or a “17” socket, which is used to rotate the pulley on the crankshaft until they match.

• To dismantle the belt in the timing drive, it is necessary to stop the crankshaft pulley from turning. You can ask an assistant to engage fifth gear and press the brake pedal.

If this does not help, open the plug on the gearbox housing.

Insert the blade of a flat-head screwdriver into the hole between the teeth of the flywheel and the gearbox housing, and unscrew the bolt securing the pulley to the crankshaft.

• To remove the belt, release it tension roller. The bolt securing it is unscrewed, the roller rotates, the tension weakens, after which the old belt is easily removed. It is recommended to simultaneously change the tension roller, which is removed from the block, at the same time as the drive. There is an adjusting washer installed under it, which some “repairers” lose.
• Inspect the pulleys on the crankshaft and camshaft, paying attention to the wear of their teeth. If such wear is noticeable, the pulleys should be replaced, as the contact area with the belt teeth is reduced and they can be sheared.

They also check technical condition coolant pump, which is also driven by a timing belt. Basically, the belt shearing occurs after the coolant pump is jammed. If the pump is changed, you need to drain some antifreeze from the engine cooling system.

• Install the new tension roller in its place. Do not forget about the adjusting washer between the cylinder block and the roller, otherwise the belt will move to the side when rotating.
• Installation of a new belt is carried out in the reverse order, but before that, check again how the gas distribution marks match. You need to start installation from the camshaft pulley, then put it on the pulley crankshaft and pump pulley. This part of the belt should be tensioned without any possible sagging, and the opposite side should be tensioned with a tension roller.
• Installing the pulley on the crankshaft will again require securing it from possible rotation.
• Next, put the protective covers in place and adjust the generator drive.

After installing the timing drive, be sure to turn the engine crankshaft several revolutions, while checking that all installation marks match.

Setting marks

The efficiency of the motor depends on the correctness of this operation. There are three of them on the engine, which are located on the camshaft and rear protective shield housing, crankshaft pulley and cylinder block, gearbox housing and flywheel. On the pulley camshaft There is a pin that must be aligned with the bend on the rear timing cover housing. The crankshaft pulley also has a pin that is aligned with a mark on the cylinder block. The mark on the flywheel must coincide with the mark on the gearbox housing; these are the most important marks that show that the piston of the first cylinder is at the TDC point.

Correct belt tension

The tension roller is an important part of the gas distribution system on the Lada Kalina. If you tighten it, this will greatly accelerate the wear of the mechanism; if the tension is weak, ignition failure may occur due to the belt slipping. The amount of tension is adjusted by turning the tension roller on its axis. To do this, there are two holes on the roller into which a key is inserted to rotate the tensioner. It is also possible to rotate the roller using pliers to remove the retaining rings.

“Craftsmen” act differently; they use drills or nails with a suitable diameter, which are inserted into the holes. A screwdriver is placed between them, the handle of which is used as a lever to turn the tension roller to the left or right until the desired result is obtained. The correct tension will be when the body of the belt between the pulleys can be turned 90 degrees with your fingers, and after releasing the belt returns to its original state. If this condition is met, tighten the fasteners in the tensioning device.

Which belt to buy

The efficiency of the car engine depends on the quality of the parts used in the timing mechanism drive (tensioner roller, belt). When repairing or servicing a car, it is advisable to use original parts, but in some cases, non-original spare parts for automobile components have worked well.

Article number of the original timing belt 21126–1006040 , which is produced by the RTI plant in Balakovo. Experts recommend confidently using parts from Gates, Bosch, Contitech, Optibelt, Dayco. When choosing, you should be especially careful, since under the brand name of well-known manufacturers you can buy a fake.

The Lada Kalina passenger car, the first generation, was produced for a little over 8 years (2004-2013). It was equipped with 8 valve engines(VAZ-21114) with a working volume of 1.6 liters, and 16 valve motors(VAZ-11194 and VAZ-21126) with a working volume of 1.4 and 1.6 liters. And since mid-May 2013, the second generation of these cars has been produced.

When the timing belt breaks on eight valve engines, there is no meeting of the valves with the pistons of the crank mechanism, but on the 16-valve Lada Kalina engines of the first generation, with such a malfunction, the valves bend, and sometimes even, on top of everything , breaks the piston or bends its skirt. Therefore, when the question arises about replacing the timing belt, owners of Kalina, with 16-valve engines, must follow the instructions for maintenance of this car, which states that it is necessary to change the timing belt at TO-6 after a mileage of 75,000 kilometers.

But, you need to take into account that the service life of the timing belt is greatly influenced by the condition of the tension roller and water pump. If, when the engine is running, you hear extraneous noise associated with the appearance of play in the bearings of the above-mentioned devices, then the timing belt must be changed along with the tension roller and water pump, regardless of the number of kilometers traveled. In addition, you need to know that there are cases of selling defective timing belts. Therefore, after replacing them, you need to periodically inspect the timing belt for delamination of its edges or the appearance of cracks along the base of the belt teeth.

Those owners of Lada Kalina cars with 8-valve engines who know how to replace the timing belt do not have to worry about it breaking or cutting teeth if they have in the trunk a kit consisting of a tension roller and a timing belt, as well as necessary tool, which will be needed to replace it. With skillful actions, this will require about an hour and a half of work in the warm season. Well, in winter, it’s still not advisable to operate the car until the timing belt breaks.

According to experience in operating Lada Kalina cars, the service life of tension rollers does not exceed 80,000 kilometers, and that of water pumps – 120,000 kilometers. Therefore, on a new Kalina, it would be more rational to replace the timing belt and tension pulley for the first time at a mileage of about 50-60 thousand kilometers, and to change the timing belt, tension roller and water pump again at a mileage of 110-120 thousand kilometers.

To complete the work you will need assistant, and it is also desirable to have an inspection ditch.

Since valves and pistons can collide when the timing belt breaks, the timing belt must be replaced every 60,000 km. When replacing the timing belt, its tension and guide rollers should also be replaced.

Camshaft drive diagram: 1 - toothed pulley of the engine crankshaft; 2 - tide on the oil pump cover; 3 - toothed pulley of the coolant pump; 4 - tension roller; 5 - toothed pulley of the exhaust camshaft; 6 - rear timing belt cover; 7 - toothed pulley of the intake camshaft; 8 - guide roller; 9 - toothed belt; A - TDC mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley; B mark on the oil pump cover; C, F - mark on the rear timing belt cover; D- mark on the toothed pulley of the exhaust camshaft; E- mark on the toothed pulley of the intake camshaft

Removal

1. We prepare the car for work

2. Remove the upper front timing belt cover.

If you remove the timing belt before replacing it, mark the direction of its rotation with a marker. When assembling, it should be installed in accordance with the mark.

3. Remove the front right wheel and place the car on a reliable stand.

4. Remove the right side of the engine mudguard.

5. Removing the generator drive belt

6. Turn with a 17 mm socket wrench crankshaft until the marks on the exhaust camshaft pulley align...

And on the intake camshaft pulley with marks on the rear timing belt cover.

This position will correspond to the position of the crankshaft at TDC of the compression stroke of the first cylinder (see figure). It is not allowed to rotate the crankshaft by the camshaft pulley bolts. When performing the following operation, the crankshaft can be held with a slotted screwdriver by the flywheel ring gear. To do this, you need to unscrew three screws and remove the lower cover of the clutch housing. Also, the crankshaft pulley bolt can be unscrewed if an assistant shifts into high gear and presses the brake pedal. However, the crankshaft may turn slightly. Therefore, it is necessary to re-check that all marks match.

7. Socket wrench on 17mm Using an extension, unscrew the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt.

8. Remove the crankshaft pulley and limit washer.

9. Hex wrench by 5 mm unscrew the three bolts securing the lower front timing belt cover

10. Remove the cover.

11. Key by 15 mm, By turning the tension roller mounting bolt half a turn counterclockwise, we loosen the tension on the timing belt.

12. Remove the timing belt.

After removing the belt, check the condition of the tension and guide rollers (see below, “Timing belt tension and guide rollers - check and replacement”).

Installation

1. We put it on new belt, laying its branches in accordance with the drawing (see and making sure that the mark on the crankshaft timing pulley is located opposite the boss made on the oil pump housing.

2. We put the belt on the intake camshaft pulley so that the front branch of the belt is tensioned. Without letting the belt loosen, we put it on the exhaust camshaft pulley.

3. Using a snap ring puller, turn the tensioner in the direction of the arrows until the marks on it align...

And using a 15 mm wrench, tighten the tension roller mounting bolt to a torque of 33.2-41.2 Nm (3.4-4.2 kgf-m).

4. If one of the camshafts has turned, then loosen the belt and reinstall it by turning the incorrectly installed camshaft (permissible mismatch of marks within one tooth of the camshaft pulley).

5. By turning the crankshaft two turns (by the flywheel crown or by screwing the pulley mounting bolt into the shaft), we make sure that the marks match that the relative position of the shafts is not disturbed. If necessary, align the marks and repeat the installation of the belt.

6. After aligning all the marks, we install the parts removed from the car in place.

We check the condition and adjust the tension of the timing belt on a cold engine (15–35 °C). To inspect the belt, remove the top drive cover. In this case, for convenience, it is better to remove the glass washer reservoir.

By car with manual transmission gears, engage fifth gear, roll the car (or hang up the right front wheel and rotate the wheel clockwise). We inspect the timing belt. By car with automatic transmission gears, to inspect the belt, remove the right front wheel and the right mudguard of the engine compartment.

The surface of the toothed part of the belt should not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and detachments of rubber from the fabric frame. back side The belt should not have wear that exposes the cord threads and no signs of burning. There should be no delamination or fraying on the end surfaces of the belt. If defects are detected or there is a significant discrepancy between the belt tension control elements (see below), the belt must be replaced. You should also change the belt if marks are found on it. motor oil(before installing a new belt, you need to eliminate the cause of oil getting on the belt), when replacing one of the rollers or the coolant pump.

Attention! If the timing belt fails (if the teeth are broken or cut off), contact of the valves with the pistons may occur due to a mismatch in the relative angular position of the crankshaft and camshafts. As a result, this leads to expensive engine repairs.

Check the belt tension. To do this, turn the crankshaft (see above) clockwise...

With normal belt tension and the marks on the pulleys matching...

If the belt is in normal condition, but there is a slight discrepancy between the cutout and the protrusion on the tension roller (no more than half the width of the protrusion), it is necessary to adjust the belt tension. For this…

To tension the belt, turn the tension roller counterclockwise, and to loosen it, turn it clockwise. To do this, insert a special key in the form of two Ø4 mm rods attached to the base of the key (the distance between the rods is 18 mm) into the grooves of the outer disk of the roller. This key is used to adjust the timing belt mechanism of all front wheel drive cars VAZ.

We tighten the belt until the cutout of the outer disk coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve and tighten the roller mounting bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.

Attention! Excessive belt tension reduces the service life of both the belt itself and the bearings of the coolant pump, tensioner and guide rollers. Insufficient belt tension also leads to its premature failure, which can cause a violation of the valve timing and, as a result, lead to contact of the pistons with the valves and expensive engine repairs.

We turn the crankshaft two turns until the marks on the camshaft sprockets align with the cutouts on the rear timing cover and check that the cutout of the outer disk of the tension roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve. If necessary, repeat adjusting the belt tension. If belt defects are detected or if there is a significant discrepancy between the position of the cutout of the outer disk of the tension roller relative to the rectangular protrusion of its inner bushing (by more than half the width of the protrusion), the belt should be replaced.

For a car with an automatic transmission, only the second option is possible. The pulley mounting bolt is tightened with a large torque (105–110 Nm), so when unscrewing you should use a lever.

We check the matches of the marks.

For ease of subsequent assembly, we fix the camshaft pulleys.

Use a 15mm spanner to loosen the bolt securing the tension roller...

Complexity

Tool

1 - 3 h

Tool:

• Driver for socket attachment
• Knob attachment 10 mm
• Knob attachment 17 mm
• Belt tension indicator
• Special wrench for tension roller nut
• Medium flat screwdriver

Parts and consumables:

• Timing belt
• Tension roller
• Two pins (screws) with a diameter of 4 mm

Note:

We check the condition and adjust the tension of the timing belt on a cold engine (15-35 °C).

Timing drive diagram:

1 — crankshaft toothed pulley;

2 — toothed pulley of the coolant pump;

3 - tension roller;

4 — rear protective cover;

5 — camshaft toothed pulley;

6 - toothed belt;

A— installation ledge on the rear protective cover;

IN— mark on the camshaft pulley;

WITH— mark on the oil pump cover;

D— mark on the crankshaft pulley.

1. After removing the oil filler cap, remove the engine screen. Reinstall the oil filler cap.

2. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the three bolts securing the front timing cover.

3. Remove the timing cover. Remove the right mudguard of the power unit.

4. To check the belt tension, use the “17” head to turn the crankshaft 1-2 turns clockwise using the bolt securing the generator drive pulley. Then turn the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the camshaft pulley turns approximately two teeth.

5. Check the belt tension. With normal belt tension, its front branch should be twisted 90° with the thumb and index fingers with a force of 15-20N (1.5-2.0 kgf).

6. Excessive belt tension reduces its service life, as well as the bearings of the coolant pump and the tension roller. Insufficient belt tension also leads to its premature failure and can cause a violation of the valve timing.

7. To tension the belt, use a 17mm wrench to loosen the nut securing the tension roller and use a special wrench to turn the roller counterclockwise. To loosen the belt, turn the roller clockwise.

8. With absence special key You can insert two pins (screws) with a diameter of 4 mm into the holes of the tension roller. Inserting the screwdriver shaft between the pins, turn the roller. After adjusting the belt tension, tighten the nut securing the tension roller. By turning the crankshaft clockwise 1-2 turns, we check the belt tension again and, if necessary, repeat the adjustment.

9. We replace the timing belt every 75,000 km or if it shows signs of wear and undercut teeth, cracks, delamination of rubber and fabric base. It is also necessary to replace the belt if it comes into contact with oil, having first eliminated the cause of the oiling.

10. Remove the generator drive belt. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise by the generator drive pulley bolt until the mark on the camshaft sprocket aligns with the mounting bracket on the rear timing cover.

11. Remove the inspection window plug at the top of the clutch housing.

12. Make sure that the mark on the flywheel is located opposite the cut of the scale.

13. We fix the crankshaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver through the window in the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth. While holding the screwdriver, use the 17mm head to unscrew the bolt securing the generator drive pulley.

14. Remove the generator drive pulley. Having loosened the nut securing the tension roller, turn the roller to a position in which the belt will be loosened as much as possible.

15. Remove the timing belt.

16. To remove the tension roller, unscrew the nut securing it and remove the roller from the stud (a spacer washer is installed under the roller). The roller should rotate silently, evenly and without jamming. Otherwise, replace the roller with a new one.

17. Install the timing belt in reverse order. We put the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley. Then, tensioning both branches of the belt, we put the rear branch on the coolant pump pulley and place it behind the tension roller, and put the front branch on the camshaft pulley. If necessary, turn the camshaft pulley in the direction of the smallest stroke until the belt teeth coincide with the pulley cavities. Lightly tighten the belt by turning the tension roller counterclockwise. We screw the bolt securing the generator drive pulley into place and turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise using the bolt.

Warning:

When installing and checking the belt tension, do not turn the crankshaft by the camshaft pulley mounting bolt.

18. We check the alignment of the installation marks of the crankshaft and camshaft. At removed pulley generator drive, it is convenient to control the position of the crankshaft by aligning the marks on the crankshaft gear pulley and the oil pump cover. If the marks do not match, repeat the operation to install the belt. Adjust the belt tension.

The article is missing:

• Photo of the instrument
• Photos of parts and consumables
• High-quality photos of repairs