Change the fuel filter for Skoda Rapid 1.6. We serve Skoda Rapid: Czech salad

Fuel filter represents important element in the fuel supply system to the engine, which is installed between the car’s gas tank and the pump leading to the engine. Functional purpose The filter consists of cleaning gasoline from dirt, small abrasive particles, as well as paraffins and various additives that may be contained in the fuel.

Neglecting to replace a faulty fuel filter worsens the quality of gasoline entering the chamber internal combustion, which negatively affects both the engine power and the service life of components.

Which fuel filter is better?

Filter designs vary depending on the type of fuel being filtered and differences in the injection system. The Skoda Rapid can be equipped with both carburetor and injection filters that purify gasoline or liquefied gas if gas-cylinder equipment is installed. The design of the car provides for the installation of two cleaning systems, namely:

• Submersible filters - which are a complex structural cleaning system that is installed inside fuel tank. The functional significance lies in the filtration of coarse purification. Replacing the device is easy;
• Main filters - included in the pipeline in the area from the gas tank to the gas pump and are elements of spot cleaning. Depending on the degree of purification, main filters can remove both fine dirt and synthetic fats or oils diluted in fuel.

For the Skoda Rapid, the best option would be to install both types of filters, which will increase the quality of the fuel supplied to the engine.

Review of fuel filters for Skoda Rapid: analogues and original components

The manufacturer recommends changing the fuel filter every 60,000 kilometers or 2 years after installation, which will guarantee maximum cleaning quality. It is also important to know that on different Rapid series the filters are not interchangeable and differ depending on engine size.

Note! It is recommended to select fuel filters based on the vehicle’s VIN number or by checking the spare part numbers for compatibility on the manufacturer’s official website - otherwise there is a risk of purchasing an unsuitable device that does not provide the proper filtration quality.

Replacing the fuel filter on a Skoda Rapid with your own hands

Install new filter You can drive the Skoda Rapid on your own, without resorting to outside help. For repairs you will need a set of tools wrenches, a set of slotted and Phillips screwdrivers, pliers, a clean rag or a soft brush for wiping components.

To replace the fuel filter you must:

1. Drive vehicle on a lift or inspection hole, you can also jack up the front of the car by first installing locking stops under the wheels. The fuel filter is located on the bottom under the rear passenger seat– the entire scope of work will be carried out in this area – this must be taken into account when setting up the machine;
2. Next, open and place the hood on the stop, then disconnect the “negative” terminal from the battery in order to turn off the power supply;
3. After which, under fuel pump we find the fuse and pull out the part to relieve pressure in the system and not splash the components with gasoline;
4. The filter is attached to a plastic latch, which is fixed to a cross-shaped screw. We clean the part from dirt with a brush and dismantle it. When the procedure is completed, the filter will move freely in the plane and all that remains is to remove the fittings: a couple of pieces on each side;
5. To remove the fittings, you need to press the lock button and use pliers to pull out the part. After dismantling, we drain the gasoline from the fittings and the filter - now you can begin installing new components;
6. Having installed a new fuel filter, we push the fittings until they click into place. If the part does not fasten, then the fittings are damaged and you need to replace the spare parts with new ones. Next, tighten the bolts and the installation is complete.

Note! When installing the fuel filter, it is important to ensure that no dirt or small abrasive objects get into the device. The best option The filter will be replaced in the garage, where there is no risk of dirt and dust getting into the system due to wind.

If a spare part becomes dirty, it is recommended to wash the device with technical alcohol and dry it - neglecting cleaning will significantly shorten the service life of the part.

The Rapid liftback is gaining popularity and is about to take first place in sales among its peers, overtaking the current leader - Octavia. To make the car attractive in appearance, in terms of features, and in price, the developers made a win-win move - they borrowed many solutions from other cars. Volkswagen concern: platform of the Polo Sedan, part of the components of the Fabia, appearance of the Octavia.

We’ll check how this “hybrid” fares with service. Let us remind you that we evaluate maintainability in points, which correspond to the total standard hours (according to the official grid) spent on certain operations.

REPLACING CANDLES AND OIL FILTER: THREE FROM A CASKET

Rapid for Russian market available with three gasoline engines- these are naturally aspirated 1.2 and 1.6 and a turbo engine 1.4. They are well known from other models of the concern. All - with chain drive A timing belt that requires no maintenance.

The younger engine - a three-cylinder 1.2 - is found mainly in Fabias of the previous generation. Belt attachments designed for the entire service life of the engine, but usually lasts 100,000–150,000 km. Its automatic tensioner roller is located next to the generator and has a stopper to secure it in the loose position. But using it to more easily replace the belt is extremely inconvenient; it’s better to forget about it altogether. To loosen the tensioner, use a 50mm Torx under the black plastic roller cover. It is easier to change the belt from above, but do not forget to sketch or photograph how it stood. Surprisingly, it can easily be placed incorrectly.

The individual ignition coils are hidden under a decorative plastic cover with four latches. As with most modern gasoline engines Volkswagen concern, they sit tightly in the spark plug wells. To remove the coils, you need a special puller or a homemade equivalent, otherwise there is a high risk of damaging them. Another inconvenience: the connectors on them are upside down. For an inexperienced person, removing connectors without seeing the type of lock is problematic. And it is impossible to remove the coils along with them from the wells. For candles you need a “16” head. Replacement according to the regulations - every 60,000 km.

The air filter housing is located behind the battery, on the left. The top cover is secured with four self-tapping screws. The element replacement interval is 30,000 km.

The middle brother - the four-cylinder 1.6‑liter engine is well known from the Polo Sedan. Its belt tensioner roller is located more conveniently than that of the 1.2 engine. We loosen it with a key “17” counterclockwise and place any suitable stopper in a special hole when it goes beyond the tide on the block. The easiest way to do this, as well as change the belt itself, is from below.

The spark plug replacement algorithm is the same as on the 1.2 engine. The only difference is in the fastening of the decorative reel cover: two latches on the front and two guides on the back.

The air filter housing is located behind the engine. The top cover is secured with five self-tapping screws. For greater convenience, when replacing the filter, remove the ventilation hose from the valve cover. It is simply put on the fitting.

The 1.4 supercharged engine has the same attachment drive as the 1.6 engine. But replacing the spark plugs turned out to be more difficult. The cover is secured with four 30mm torx screws; access to the coil of the fourth cylinder is very limited. At a minimum, you need to dismantle the ventilation tube running directly above it. Then it all depends on sleight of hand - removing the connector from the coil is hindered by the pipe from the turbine to the throttle assembly. If the connector does not lend itself, it will have to be eliminated by unscrewing two “30” Torx screws on the turbine and squeezing a couple of large latches on the throttle. You need to remove all hoses and lines from the pipe, as well as the air flow sensor connector. When reassembling, it is important to lubricate the rubber sealing ring on the turbine, otherwise it can be torn. The air filter housing is located on the left. The top cover is secured with six 20mm Torx screws.

The engine does not affect the layout engine compartment. All engines have the same inconvenient oil filler neck. It has internal thresholds, so the lubricant must be poured very slowly so as not to overflow.

Oil filter For all units it is located in front, above the generator. When replacing the filter, place a rag so as not to stain the components located underneath with oil. The 1.2 engine has a cartridge-type filter with a replaceable internal element. We unscrew its plastic body with a 36mm head. Other units have solid filters. For them we use pullers or improvised tools.

There is no drain plug for antifreeze. The fluid is designed for the entire service life of the motors. In case of forced draining, you will have to remove the lower radiator pipe.

To choose from Russian buyers Three transmissions are offered: a five-speed manual, a six-speed automatic and a seven-speed DSG. Oil changes are regulated only for automatic transmissions - every 60,000 km. In other units it is filled in for the entire service life. But no one is immune from repairs that involve draining the oil.

The manual transmission is compatible with 1.2 and 1.6 engines. The engineers still took care of the ease of changing the oil: there are the usual filler and drain plugs. The filler hole also doubles as a control hole. The normal oil level is along its edge.

The hydromechanical automatic is only available for the 1.6 engine. It is installed on many models of the concern, and is most common on the Polo Sedan. Drainer is both control and filler. A measuring tube for a “5” hexagon is screwed into it. The height of the tube corresponds to the normal oil level in a box heated to 35–40 degrees and a running engine. To drain the lubricant, completely unscrew the tube, then replace it and fill in the oil.

The service uses special containers and hoses for this, but you can get by with a regular syringe for boxes. You just need to make a tip for the hose under the hole with the tube. To be fair, I note that this inconvenient scheme is also used by other manufacturers.

The DSG box is only paired with the 1.4 turbo engine. Changing the oil in it is much easier than in a hydromechanical automatic: there is a regular drain plug from below, and fill in oil (in a volume of 1.9 l) through the breather from above.

To replace any technical fluids, you must remove the plastic crankcase protection, which does not have technological holes. It is secured with nine 25mm torx screws. Do not overtighten them, otherwise you will break the threads in the embedded elements.

REPLACING BATTERIES, FILTERS AND BRAKE FLUID: EVERYTHING EXCEPT

Replacing the battery is not difficult. The power fuse plate is fixed to positive terminal and the battery case with two large latches. Unfasten it from the battery and remove it along with the loose terminal. The battery itself is secured at the front with a metal plate with a “13” bolt.

Adjustment mechanism parking brake passed from Fabia. Access to it depends on the equipment of the machine. On cars without an armrest, it is enough to remove the rectangular niche behind the lever. And if you have an armrest, you will have to suffer - it has hard-to-reach fastenings. Even after removing the armrest, you will have to partially dismantle and lift the center console a little and manage to get to the adjustment mechanism. There is no need to go there unless absolutely necessary.

The cabin filter is located in the front passenger's feet, on the left (as in Fabia and Polo Sedan). Replacement interval - 15,000 km.

The remote fuel filter is located to the right of the tank. Replacement interval - every 60,000 km. When removing it, servicemen do not relieve pressure in fuel system. This does not affect the amount of gasoline spilled in any way. The filter has an installation direction arrow, but even without this it is impossible to install it incorrectly. It is secured to the body with a plastic clamp.

Design brake system depends on the motor. Cars with a 1.4 engine have all disc brakes. The front caliper is secured by two guides for a 7-point hexagon, and the pads do not have anti-creaking springs in the guides of the bracket. The rear caliper is tightened with two “13” bolts, and to replace the pads you need a “retractor” - the caliper piston can only be pressed in by rotation.

Rapids with a 1.6 engine have the same front brakes and drum brakes at the rear. For replacement rear pads special tools are no longer needed.

Cars with a 1.2 engine have smaller front brake discs and, accordingly, all the elements are different. The front pads have anti-creaking springs, and the caliper is secured with two “12” bolts. The rear drums are the same as the versions with the 1.6 engine.

Change brake fluid simple - the fittings are conveniently located. It needs to be updated every two years.

Access to the lamps in the right headlight is free, but on the left everything again depends on the motor. On cars with 1.2 and 1.4 engines, the battery is moved a little forward, and this eats up some of the free space. Fortunately, the lamps and their sockets have simple fixation. If you really don't have enough room to maneuver, remove the battery. Removing the headlight is not an option - this cannot be done without dismantling the bumper.

We change the halogen lamps in the front foglights from the outside. First we remove the edging, and then the headlights themselves. To access the light bulbs in rear light, it will have to be dismantled, which does not require special skills.

Usually everyone starts maintenance records with maintenance 0. But that’s not my fate, because the car was taken from my father with a mileage of 51,300 km. Before that, it was serviced by a handy dealer... For 60,000 maintenance, the dealer charged 18,500 rubles... Out of interest, I called the dealer in Ivanovo, they charged 19,600 rubles. In short, screw them. I went to the Sokol auto repair center:

Where does my friend now work, who is a great specialist in VAG, because he previously worked at OD Ruslan (FV dealer). It was he who previously serviced my Priora and drives the 12, which I wrote about here. In general, I like that 1 person makes my cars for those parts, and 1 person for the electronic stuff. I don’t allow any hacks) The spare parts were purchased as follows:

all this cost 2930r. Candles 360r/piece, Oil filter 310r, plug 70r, air filter 170r, fuel 940r.

These are the spark plugs, as the autopsy showed - they were exactly the same ones from the factory. 360 rubles per piece... I bought 4 spark plugs at Priora for 200-250 rubles))

The process has begun.

The mystery has been revealed why the dealer did not remove the protection when changing the oil. The bolt on the right is turning. As a result, the decision was made to change the embedded thing where the bolt is screwed in (I forgot what it’s called), we’ll change it later. I really regret that when I was at the dealer I didn’t start a scandal and force them to change it. And so - “quality” is obvious. A year and a half, and the bolts cannot be unscrewed. What did Suvfan say about Kalina? Obviously the steel here is the same.

We started with oil. I gave up Liqui Molly and switched to Lukoil. Genesis 5-40, picked up in Deacon.

This is how the Liqui Molly drained after running about 7000 km on it. At first the oil was this color, then it became darker.

We moved on to the fuel filter. The old one was sprayed with VDshka to make it easy to remove

For me, as a former Priorovod, this arrangement of the air intake and throttle is unusual.

On this side the throttle is clean, on the other side it is not. I didn't clean it because... I need to google how this is done.

This is what the old airman looked like.

There are also ignition coils, although of a different shape and a different price. And here is the pulp, the candles. All adherents are dedicated to changing spark plugs according to the regulations. Pay attention to the gap, especially in comparison with a new spark plug. On this site I often saw messages that there was no need to change spark plugs before the regulations; someone even reproached me for being excessively wasteful when I changed spark plugs every 20,000 km on a Priora (against the regulation of 30,000).

Next, I needed to reset the maintenance interval, I did it according to the instructions from the drive: “The steps are as follows: press the button on dashboard(I remind you that since 2016 model year there is only one button on the dashboard and the algorithm for resetting the intervals is slightly different), while holding the button we turn on the ignition. Let's release the button. A proposal to reset the maintenance interval will be displayed, press the button and confirm."

Despite changing the oil and spark plugs, no difference was noticed in the car’s performance) The total cost was: consumables: 2930 rubles + oil 1600 rubles, labor 1260 rubles = 5790 rubles, which is three times cheaper than at the dealer.