Do-it-yourself snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor, motorcycle and chainsaw: instructions for craftsmen. A simple snowmobile in one weekend How to make a snowmobile

03.01.2022

A snowmobile is a unique vehicle for daily use in winter. It is used for movement across snowy terrain during scientific expeditions, excursions, hikes, hunting animals, and protecting the territory. Such a product can be purchased at a specialized store or made with your own hands. If ready-made structures have a fairly high price, and not every person is able to afford such a purchase, then homemade ones are more affordable Alternative option, made from scrap materials and equipment.

You can make a homemade snowmobile with your own hands using available equipment. For these purposes, experts recommend using:

chainsaws;
walk-behind tractors;
motorcycles.

Important! To make a portable snowmobile at home, you must have skills in working with plumbing tools.

Drawings, options for finished work

The design of a snowmobile must begin by creating a drawing of the desired product. It will help in the process of making practical and functional equipment, which will serve for more than one year.

Option finished work

If you can use ready-made drawings to create a snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor or a motorcycle, then for a design from a chainsaw they are not provided, since each tool has its own specifications and features.

Chainsaw snowmobile

Advice. The snowmobile can be made as either a tracked vehicle or a ski vehicle.

Before you start making a snowmobile from a chainsaw, you need to choose equipment that will have all the necessary characteristics. The best option for this purpose - the Druzhba, Ural and Shtil chainsaws (the power of these tools is ideal for creating high-speed snowmobiles).

Important! The engine and gearbox are the main parts of the chainsaw that are used during operation.

The snowmobile design consists of four parts:

Caterpillars.
Transmissions.
Engine.

Chainsaw Ural

The assembly of a homemade snowmobile is carried out not according to some proposed scheme or standard drawing, but based on the materials and tools that the master has at his disposal.

Instructions for assembling a snowmobile from a chainsaw

Assembling a product is quite an interesting job. It consists of several successive steps that must be performed carefully and responsibly.

The first stage is the assembly of the frame base of the future homemade snowmobile. For work you will need steel corners (size - 50 x 36 cm) or steel sheets (thickness - at least 2 mm). The middle part of the structure is made from the corners, and the front and back are made from sheets.

Advice. To give the necessary rigidity to the structure, the metal is bent at an angle of 90 degrees.

Carefully make two through holes for placement of the track shaft and track wheel guides (tensioners are installed on both sides of the side members).

Important! Front device specifically designed to tension the second stage idler, it also helps in adjusting the track itself.

Special brackets are carefully welded to the bottom of the side members (they are attached at the same distance from each other), support rollers are installed in their open grooves.
The rollers (in rubber covers) are placed on five axes, each of which is attached to the underside of the open grooves.
Between each of the elements special bushings made of duralumin are installed (they are made from a suitable pipe).

Advice. In order not to waste time making rollers and axles for them, they can be borrowed from old equipment for digging up potatoes.

The bracket axles themselves are secured using nuts and locknuts (they are designed to strengthen the snowmobile frame and hold the side members at a certain distance from each other).
Three metal corners are used to make racks for attaching the prepared chainsaw gearbox, and install the intermediate shaft of the chain drive.
A seat for the user is installed on the prepared frame (for these purposes, use a suitable box or Car seat), it is fixed in the area between the middle and back designs.

Chainsaw snowmobile

A hole is made in the front section of the frame to accommodate the steering wheel; it is made from a pipe with welded control handles.
Metal gussets are installed in the places where the snowmobile racks are attached (they strengthen the structure, make it stronger and more reliable).

Important! In order for the future homemade snowmobile to have good maneuverability in snowy terrain, it is equipped with a caterpillar mechanism.

A snowmobile drive shaft is made from a metal pipe, and a special round flange is inserted into it for attaching gears.
To create the steering, equipment from old motorcycles or mopeds with three-lever control is used.

The finished snowmobile is light in weight and can easily be placed in the trunk of a car for transportation over long distances. Its controls are so simple and intuitive that even a child can easily use it.

Snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor

A walk-behind tractor is another option for equipment that is used in the process of making a snowmobile with your own hands. Its design practically does not need to be altered, since it is initially multifunctional.

There are three types of walk-behind snowmobiles:

wheeled;
on tracks;
combined.

Walk-behind tractor

Before you start working with a walk-behind tractor, you need to decide on the type of future design. The complexity of the master’s work, as well as the duration of the entire process, will depend on it.

Construction of a snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor

Important! To create a wheeled snowmobile, you do not need to modify the steering system, Special attention You only need to pay attention to the frame of the device and the skis.

The snowmobile frame is made of metal pipes or angles (it should be rectangular in shape).
A box or chair is attached to the finished base to accommodate the driver.
Skis are made separately from angles and sheet metal and welded to the frame.
The finished structure is attached to the walk-behind tractor and used for its intended purpose.

Drawing: snowmobile made from a walk-behind tractor

Snowmobile from a motorcycle: a guide for masters

Making a snowmobile from a motorcycle is not so easy. If the assembly of previous products did not cause any difficulties, then with this design you will have to suffer. The work will require not only tools, materials and equipment, but also skills in working with a welding machine and other equipment.

Important! Motorcycles "Ural", "Izh" and "Dnepr" are the most suitable models for making a snowmobile with your own hands.

Snowmobile design technology

Make a suitable frame from metal pipes different diameters and steel corners. Its base is made in the form of a rectangle (its dimensions are 150 x 43.2 cm).
The steering beam is constructed from metal corners (its dimensions are 50 x 50 x 5 mm), its parts are sheathed with dense metal overlays. The finished structure is installed in horizontal position on a drilling machine.

Motorcycle Izh

The frame and the finished beam are processed at the joints, special grooves are prepared for reliable fixation of the elements.
The front crossbar of the frame is equipped with a strong corner.
The seat is attached to the frame of the structure.
Make holes in the side members.
A channel is welded between the steering and middle sections.
Select a suitable track sprocket and rubber band for further installation (suitable dimensions - 2200 x 300 mm, thickness - no more than 10 mm).
The caterpillar itself is carefully sheathed with nylon so that the material does not delaminate during use.

Snowmobile from motorcycle

Install the transmission, which consists of a front and rear axle. The front one is the drive one, it consists of a tubular shaft, a track sprocket and rollers (the sprockets themselves are fixed with through bolts). The rear axle structure consists of a track drum and a tubular shaft.
The skis are welded to the structure of the snowmobile (sheets of steel and metal corners are used for their manufacture).

The control system of a homemade snowmobile from a motorcycle is quite complex to design. It consists of:

longitudinal traction;
lateral thrust.

From the information presented we can conclude: a homemade snowmobile from elements of a walk-behind tractor, chainsaw or motorcycle is a reality. Any craftsman can make it. For productive work you will only need certain skills, equipment, tools and materials.

Homemade snowmobile: video

Those who like to go fishing often in winter very often encounter the problem of cross-country ability. After all, it is not always possible, even in an SUV, to drive directly to the bank of the river, and even more so to the fishing spot itself. The way out of this situation is a tracked snowmobile. However, the price of such equipment in stores is sometimes not affordable, and therefore there is a need to make such a device with your own hands. In today's article we will look at how to do it on tracks and what you need to have for this.

Caterpillar

First of all, you should start with the most complex element of the snowmobile design - the caterpillar. Along with the motor, it is the main propulsion element of all equipment. In order to make it, you first need to draw up drawings of homemade snowmobiles on tracks (approximately like in our second photo).

This way you will know the exact sequence of work being performed and will not forget about any small detail. And now about how to make a caterpillar in practice. To do this, we need to take a plastic pipe (approximately 40 millimeters in diameter) and 2 strips. The number of pieces of strips depends on how long your caterpillar will be. Working with these parts, or rather, processing them, is easily done on a circular or (grinder). In this case, you need to cut through the part one wall at a time. This is necessary to ensure the accuracy of the work performed. How to connect the transport tape with the halves of the cut pipe? To do this, we need two, and the diameter of their thread should be about 6 millimeters. If you combine this value of the elements with the manufactured structure, the step between the lugs at the output will be 93 millimeters.

When “baiting” parts of pipes with their cut side facing out, be sure to maintain a pitch distance between them. If the displacement is 3 millimeters or more, this will lead to inconsistent operation of the drive gear teeth and the belt itself, which will cause slippage in the snowmobile. And this already leads to loss of controllability. This discrepancy can lead to the fact that the belt can simply slide off the rollers.

It is important to observe the size of the caterpillar. How long it will be directly depends on the power of the engine that will power the homemade snowmobile. On tracks, it is necessary to calculate the nominal pressure of all equipment on its plane. Thus, the curb weight of the snowmobile relative to the road surface should be no more than 0.4 kg/cm 2 .

How to drill the tape?

Homemade tracked snowmobiles work quite well on belts drilled with a conventional drill. However, in order for the device to work as long as possible, you need to resharpen the drill in advance for working with rubber. You should first purchase a tool designed for processing wooden surfaces. Never use metal drills.

Other chassis parts

The rest of the units will be easier. For example, components such as axles and rubber wheels, Buranovsky drive sprockets and protected bearings can be purchased at any specialized store. By the way, it is better to buy inflatable wheels. This technique will be softer on the go. The axle can be taken from a simple garden cart (two-axle). If necessary, you can trim it or, conversely, expand it to suitable technology values. If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a drive shaft in a store, you can try making one lathe. At self-production shaft, make sure that it is sized to accommodate the bearings well.

Homemade snowmobile on tracks: frame

For us, it will perform the main load-bearing function and hold all the parts, including the engine, in one whole. By the way, you can use the power plant from a motorcycle together with a gearbox as a motor. But let's get back to the frame. We will make it from steel section with a diameter of 25x25 millimeters. In this case, it must be welded in such a way that there are two longitudinal and three transverse beams on it. The presence of these parts on the frame will significantly strengthen its structure.

Finishing the job

Finally, about how to install it on a homemade snowmobile on tracks. In the process of assembling a snowmobile, it is necessary to make two rotary bushings. This will be your steering mechanism. How it's done? You need to weld a water coupling with a 1/3-inch internal thread to the front beam and screw the male threaded pipes into them. The pipes already have ski struts and welded bipods for the steering rod. By the way, you can use skis from an ordinary children's car "Argamak". But before that, first prepare them for installation: attach the corners of the rotary stand and trim the metal. This will significantly improve the maneuverability and control quality of the snowmobile at high speed.

During cold weather, transport on two wheels becomes irrelevant, and sometimes it is impossible to drive through snowy expanses even by car. What to do in a situation where there is no money to buy a vehicle more adapted to the harsh winter?

In this case, you can make a homemade snowmobile. Winter vehicles are most often equipped with a tracked drive and steering skis are installed at the front. The snowmobile has high cross-country ability, light weight (70-80 kg), which allows it to drive both on valuable snow and on compact snow-covered roads. Driving this vehicle is easy and the speed is low. So riding a snowmobile in the countryside in winter is not only convenient, but also safe.

Features of homemade snowmobiles

A huge number of companies sell snowmobiles in the CIS. But their prices are high even for families with decent incomes. If you don’t want to overpay for advertising and are a hardworking and creative person, then try making a homemade snowmobile.

A self-propelled gun made by yourself costs 7-10 times less than the cheapest factory-made models.

The success of making a snowmobile yourself depends on several factors:

your personal skill;
your engineering and design thinking;
availability of parts and assemblies from other snowmobiles, motorcycles and other things.

It should be borne in mind that riding a snowmobile, like riding any vehicle, is associated with increased danger. Despite the fact that homemade devices, as a rule, are not capable of reaching speeds of more than 15 km/h, the quality of parts, welding, and bolting of elements should be approached with the utmost seriousness. The issue of operational safety and reliability of the final unit should be the main one for any person who intends to make a snowmobile with his own hands.

Preparation

Before you start making a snowmobile, you need to calculate the basic parameters of the device. If you are a bit of a design engineer, then it is appropriate to make a drawing of the unit. In principle, all snowmobiles are designed the same and simply. Your task is to make a reliable device modeled after all other variants of this class of vehicle.

What you will need for production:

Pipe for the frame, for pendants and other frame elements.

It was experimentally found that the optimal pipe diameter is 40 mm. If you are using a profile, then 25 x 25 mm will be enough. Wall thickness – 2 mm. With smaller parameters, the resistance of the device to deformation will be reduced. If they are large, the car will become heavier, which, accordingly, will affect the already not brilliant driving characteristics.

Wheels with rubber on the axle.

Wheels from ATVs (small models with a wheel diameter of 30-40 cm), some carts, etc. are suitable. A total of 2 axles with 2 wheels on each are required.

V-belts or conveyor belt.

The main element of the "caterpillars". The optimal thickness is 3 mm. This is enough for stability and wear resistance.

PVC pipes.

They are used to make lugs - the second element of the “caterpillars”. Optimal diameter 40 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm.

Propulsion system.

Typically, an engine, carburetor, fuel tank from a motorcycle.

Transmission mechanism.

As a rule, they use sprockets and a chain from a motorcycle, sprockets from snowmobiles. Drive shaft from any unit, suitable in size.

Guide skis.

It is optimal to take skis from another snowmobile. Since this element must be as reliable as possible, designed for the load of the unit itself, plus the driver and possible passengers.

Steering wheel.

As a rule, they use a motorcycle handlebar, respectively, with a gas handle and a cable.

Platform, seat, body.

In principle, you can do without a platform by attaching the seat(s) and the body (optional) directly to the frame. But sometimes an additional platform is constructed on the frame, for example, from wooden boards, which provide slight shock absorption, allow you to place several seats, and at the same time lightly weight the structure.

Shock absorbers.

This element adds additional complexity to the design. Therefore, they often do without it, especially if they plan to drive on uncompacted snow. Shock absorption is installed on the front suspension and driver's seat. You can take it from an old snowmobile or motorcycle.

Small parts.

In addition to those listed above, other standard parts will be required to make a snowmobile: bolts, studs, nuts, hinges.

How to make: instructions

First, the frame is welded. Obviously, the larger the frame, the heavier the device will be and the slower it will move. The optimal frame length is 2 m plus/minus.

The following are sequentially fixed on the frame:

drive shaft with receiving star;
power plant with a transmission star and gas tank;
front wheel axle (fixed fastening to the frame by welding or bolts);
rear wheel axle (fixed with a movable guide element);
front suspension with steering structure and guide ski(s);
seat(s) and body.

Caterpillars are made of drive V-belts or conveyor belts. The optimal track width is from 40 to 50 cm. With a smaller width (40), the snowmobile will be more maneuverable and better controllable. With a higher value (50+), the patency of the device improves.

The function of lugs is performed by PVC pipes of the diameter indicated above, sawn in half lengthwise. They are attached to the rubber base using bolts and nuts. Insufficient width V-belts can be fastened to each other with metal grousers.

In order to be able to adjust the tension of the track, the rear wheel axle is attached using a movable guide element, which allows you to fix the position of the axle in a certain position.

Additional notes:

The center of gravity should be approximately the center of the structure. Since the power plant is mounted at the front, the driver's seat should be centered over the front axle or slightly offset to the rear.
Distance between drive shaft and power plant should be minimal to minimize losses of energy transmitted to the shaft.
If you install a shock absorber under the seat, then the front seat support is rigidly mounted on a profile arch, and the rear seat rests on the shock absorber.
If you are making a snowmobile with a heavy load in mind, then to remove some of the weight from the tracks, it is advisable to install an additional ski in the middle of the base (between two tracks). This ski, 50-70 cm long, is attached directly to the frame. However, this design requires a more accurate preliminary calculation with subsequent leveling of the height of the “leg”, which complicates the manufacture of the snowmobile.
It is advisable to maintain low pressure in snowmobile tires to avoid rapid wear parts and high fuel consumption.

The considered version of the snowmobile is the simplest in design. If you have the tools and a welding machine, it can be assembled in the garage without any problems.

With the arrival of winter, some people successfully replace two-wheeled transport with homemade snowmobiles. This equipment is capable of overcoming large snowdrifts and is convenient for moving on snow-covered roads. It is expensive and not everyone can afford to buy it, so many assemble snowmobiles on their own using scrap materials.

General structure of the snowmobile

A snowmobile is a sled that is powered by an engine. They are agile, agile and capable of speeds in excess of 85 mph. Middle-class equipment can overcome inclines of 20°. Steep slopes up to 65° can be passed by snowmobiles with more high class. General device snowmobile:

The equipment is controlled via steering handles. The handles are connected to the skis that stand in front.
The steering wheel is equipped with drives: gas and brake. These levers control the speed and braking of the snowmobile.
There are no rear wheels, but instead a solid rubber band (track) is installed that moves the snowmobile. It is connected to the engine through a chain and belt.
Some models can be made using tubes from tractor wheels.

Thanks to their design, snowmobiles overcome difficult places that cars cannot pass. With their help, food is delivered to snowy areas where there are no roads. But most people are used to using them for entertainment.

Manufacturing of structural elements

Before starting to manufacture structural elements, prepare a drawing, required materials and tools. You can take ready-made drawings based on the Bullfinch or Vepr snowmobiles. Tools you will need:

welding machine;
pipe bender or finished frame;
hammer;
screwdrivers.

Since the design of the mini snowmobile is low, the seat is made of durable waterproof material. The fuel tank is made of metal. Its volume should be from 10 to 15 liters. You can use a motorcycle chain as a drive.

How to make a snowmobile track

A snowmobile track is created from tires or conveyor belt. The work will be difficult and time-consuming if tires are used as the basis. The sides are cut out of them, so the work requires a sharp shoe knife or an electric jigsaw. To facilitate the process, tires are selected with a suitable tread pattern. Making a homemade caterpillar:

The sides of the tire are cut out with a knife. If the knife blade is periodically moistened in a soapy solution, the cutting process will become easier. When using an electric jigsaw, install a blade with small teeth and moisten it with water.
If, when cutting, the track turns out to be hard or extra layers have formed on the wrong side, they are also cut off.
Slicing new structure done when there is a mismatch in the tread pattern. The structure made must cling to the soil, so the structure of the pattern must be correct.

The snowmobile that this story will be about was assembled by tenth-grader Sergei Sorokin from the Altai village of Ust-Kamanka. And this is not surprising. The guy has been interested in technology since childhood - for eight years now he has been studying at the CDT (Children's Creativity Center) in the "Small-sized Equipment" club. The head of the circle, Viktor Aleksandrovich Kurbatov, assisted in the selection of drawings and design of the layout and transmission diagrams of the machine. His father, Boris Andreevich, helped carry out the responsible welding work. I did everything else, including processing parts on machines, myself. In total, Sergei built the snowmobile for about a year; assembly alone took almost four months, from autumn to spring. And until the snow melted, I only had time to test it, “plowing” all the snowdrifts around the house. But now he has revealed some shortcomings that he plans to eliminate by next season.

Our regions are snowy, and winter lasts almost six months. Therefore, every local boy dreams of a snowmobile - the ability of this machine to overcome deep snowdrifts is amazing. Tracked snowmobile A friend advised me to build it - he himself started making the same car in the winter (although he later cooled down and abandoned it). Besides, I already had summer transport - a scooter. In the spring, I also started work, although slowly (besides, it was slowed down by problems with welding).

1 – guide ski (2 pcs.); 2 – muffler; 3 – exhaust pipe; 4 – engine (from the K-125 motorcycle); 5 – steering shaft (pipe d22); 6 – steering wheel; 7 – gas tank; 8 – inclined seat post (pipe 20×20, 2 pcs.); 9 – vertical seat posts (pipe 20×20, 4 pcs.); 10 – seat cushion (foam rubber s50, covered with leatherette); 11 – caterpillar; 12 – tension axis unit with two rollers); 13 – subframe with support ski and runners; 14 – frame; 15 – caterpillar drive shaft assembly; 16 – footrest (stamped steel grid, 2 pcs.); 17 – seat frame trim (s5 plywood)

It turned out to be easy to decide on the design - since I still had little experience, I decided to build it in the likeness of those that were in the circle: three-legged (with a caterpillar made of wooden blocks on two strips of conveyor belt and two front steering skis). To simplify the design, I considered it expedient to make these support units without shock-absorbing suspensions. In the summer I prepared the tape and bars for the caterpillar, bought a second-hand (used) power unit from a Minsk motorcycle. The engine had to have its piston and rings replaced. And in the fall, when we bought a welding unit, the work on creating a snowmobile became more active.

The frame of the snowmobile, although spatial, is simple - rectangular in plan. Its main power elements (spars and cross members) are welded from steel pipes of rectangular section 40x20 mm, auxiliary ones are made from square pipes - 20x20 mm. The front crossmember is made of a pipe with a cross-section of 60×30 mm and is welded to the front ends of the side members at an angle of 15 degrees (the angle between the longer wall of the pipe and the horizontal). In fact, all the crossbars, except the first one, are made in the form of portals (U-shaped, only on short racks). At first, I made the struts of the portal cross members slightly inclined inward (I thought it would be more beautiful), but, as it turned out during testing, the ends of the tracks began to touch them. It was necessary to shorten the already short tracks, so I decided that it would be better to overcook the portals, making them rectangular.

The frame parts also include the housings of the steering knuckles of the steered skis. The housings are made of steel pipe with an outer diameter of 32 mm and a wall thickness of 5 mm and are welded to the ends of the traverse at an angle of 15 degrees to the vertical.

1 – front bumper (steel pipe 20×20); 2 – bushing of the steering knuckle of the ski guide (pipe 022, 2 pcs.); 3 – front mounting eye power unit(steel sheet s4); 4 – spar (pipe 40×20, 2 pcs.); 5 – rear eye for fastening the power unit (steel sheet s4); b – strut (steel pipe 20×20); 7 – support stand for the steering shaft bushing (pipe 20×20); 8 – steering shaft bushing (pipe 028); 9 – seat backing plate (steel sheet s2); 10 – spinal bridge (pipe 20×20); 11 – portal racks (pipe 20×20, 6 pcs.); 12 – rear bumper (pipe 20×20); 13 – scarf (steel sheet s4, 4 pcs.); 14 – bracket for fastening the drive shaft and the tension axis of the track (steel sheet s4, 4 pcs.); 15 – frame of the footrest (pipe 20×20.2 pcs.); 16 – portal jumper (pipe 20×20.3 pcs.); 17 – support cross member (pipe 20×20); 18 – traverse (pipe 50×30)

1 – frame (steel angle No. 2); 2 – sole (polyethylene s5); 3 – base (steel sheet s2); 4 – bracket (2 pcs.); 5 – rivets (bottom – recessed heads, set)

1 – runner (steel sheet s3); 2 – ridge (steel pipe 20×20); 3 – bushing (steel pipe d26x2)

The crawler drive is similar to what most do-it-yourselfers use. Its caterpillar consists of a pair of parallel endless strips (with riveted ends) made of a 65 mm wide conveyor belt, combining tracks made of wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50x40 mm, attached to them in increments of 100 mm. The total length of the caterpillar is just over two meters, the number of tracks on it is 20 pieces. To prevent the caterpillar from “moving” to the sides, corners are attached to the ends of the track bars (every one or two) on the free side. Each corner is a welded part, and their vertical shelf-walls are made rounded (from a pipe) so that the corners themselves cannot jam on the support ski or drive gears.

1 – drive sprocket of the caterpillar drive shaft (z=32); 2 – bearing housing No. 205 (2 pcs.); 3 – key; 4 – drive sprocket hub (pipe d40x7.5); 5 – gear wheel z=8, t=50 (duralumin); 6 – flange for fastening the gear to the shaft (steel sheet s4, 2 pcs.); 7 – shaft (steel, circle 25); 8 – M8x25 bolt (8 pcs.); 9 – bearing No. 205 (2 pcs.); 10 – caterpillar; 11 – bracket for fastening the shaft to the frame

Caterpillar (a-front view; b – track joint; c – top left view along the track):

1 – track (birch timber 50×40, set); 2-lane (conveyor belt 65×10, 2 pcs.); 3-limiter (steel sheet s4, set); 4 – plate (steel sheet s4, set); 5 – M6 bolt with regular and spring washers, set)

The lower branch of the caterpillar is supported by a support ski, and the upper branch is not allowed to sag by two runners made of wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. The ends of the runners are beveled to make it easier for the caterpillar to get on them and for the tracks to come off silently. The support ski is made of 5 mm thick polyethylene sheet on a 2 mm steel sheet base with a frame made from angle No. 2. It has upward bends at the front and back. The snow itself serves as a lubricant when the tracks slide along the support ski and runners, which, as practice shows, ensures the service life of the parts for one or two seasons (depending on the intensity of use), after which they have to be replaced. The support ski in the subframe is hingedly attached to a pair of posts welded at the other ends to an additional frame cross member made of rolled angle 50x50 mm. But during the very first tests, the racks began to bend. They had to be strengthened with struts made of steel strip with a cross-section of 30×4 mm. The skids are installed parallel to the side members and are rigidly attached to the additional frame cross member with M10 bolts.

The power unit, as mentioned above, was used from the Minsk motorcycle (two-stroke, displacement - 125 cm3 and power - 10 hp). It was placed in front, in the middle of the frame. This arrangement made it possible not to think about the weight distribution of the unit, but forced us to make a “crooked” steering shaft so that when turning, it would bypass the engine cylinder without touching it. The engine was secured to the frame using a pair of lug brackets made from 4 mm steel sheet and cut to the shape of standard ones, which are welded to the motorcycle frame. The motor has not undergone any modifications, even the output shaft sprocket remains standard, fifteen teeth.

1 – steering wheel (from the Minsk motorcycle); 2 – steering shaft (steel pipe d22x2); 3 – steering bipod (steel sheet s4); 4 – steering knuckle lever (steel sheet s4, 2 pcs.); 5 – transverse rod (steel sheet s4.2 pcs.); 6 – kingpin with fork (2 pcs.); 7 – steering knuckle housing (steel pipe d32x5.2 pcs.); 8 – plain bearing (nylon, 4 pcs.); 9 – traverse

1 – steering knuckle body; 2 – kingpin (steel, circle 16, 2 pcs.); 3 – fork (channel No. 5); 4 – fist axis (steel, circle 16.2 pcs.); 5 – axle sliding bearing (nylon cap 2 pcs.); 6 – M16 nut with a spring washer for fastening the axle (2 sets); 7 - steering knuckle lever (steel sheet s4); 8 – M16 nut with a spring washer for securing the lever; 9 – sliding bearing pin (nylon, 4 pcs.); 10 – frame traverse; 11 – ski stiffener (ski spine); 12 – ski runner; 13 – ski bushing

Fuel (a mixture of gasoline with motor oil For two-stroke engines) is supplied to the engine carburetor by gravity, from a homemade 5-liter gas tank located above the engine between the steering wheel and the seat.

The snowmobile's transmission is also the simplest - without an intermediate shaft and gearbox. A chain drive from the output shaft transmits rotation directly to the drive sprocket of the track shaft, on which a pair of track drive gears is mounted. Gears cast in a mug from aluminum melted in an electric furnace into a cast iron mold. They are connected to the shaft through round steel flanges welded to it, each with four M8 bolts.

The shaft rotates in two bearings No. 203, the housings of which are mounted on plate frame brackets designed for them (welded to the side members). The tension axis is also made in the likeness of the drive shaft, only instead of drive gears, two rubber-coated rollers with a smaller diameter are installed on it.

The chain is tensioned (or loosened for removal) by moving the drive shaft away from the power unit, and the track is by moving the rear tension axle even further back.

The guide skis (there are two of them) are made of steel sheet 3 mm thick and reinforced with a longitudinal stiffening element made of a steel pipe with a cross-section of 20×20 mm welded on top. The ski is pivotally connected to the steering knuckle strut and has the ability to rotate in a vertical plane - to run over obstacles and roll around them. In the horizontal plane, the ski turns together with the fist from the action of the steering rods when the steering wheel is turned. The skis do not have undercuts (or, as they are often called, “knives”), but this does not affect handling much, since the skis themselves are quite narrow.

The steering is typical for snowmobiles with two steering skis and ATVs: a motorcycle-type handlebar, a steering shaft with a bipod, and transverse links with swivel fists- already similar to automobile ones. The peculiarity of the steering shaft was noted above - it is “crooked”.

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