How to change the rear hub. Replacing the rear hub bearing - getting rid of unpleasant sounds

28.10.2019

The suspension system performs many functions, the main of which is to ensure the car's controllability. To make the car maneuverable and safe, it is equipped with a special swivel fist and the hub between the axles. In order for them to be as reliable as possible, they include two bearings. Both parts may differ in size and cost, but their design remains unchanged. Both the front and the back are tapered. Although some car enthusiasts claim that the rear hub bearing is easier to operate than the front bearing. To finally find out the answer to this question, in today's article we will consider all the features of this part.

First, let's understand the design of this element. As we have already found out, the rear hub bearing is tapered. So - it is attached to the axle using a special thrust nut or washer. The more this part is tightened, the tighter the rollers will be pressed. This eliminates the possibility of backlash in the mechanism.

So why is the rear hub bearing easier to operate?

The design of the front and rear parts is very similar to each other, but there are some differences. The fact is that the rear hub bearing does not have, therefore, it is easier to operate. Now, several types of these parts are installed on cars:

radial ball bearings (most often for machines with dependent suspension);
conical (for independent).

The first mechanisms differ from the second ones in that they do not have the ability to adjust the degree of pressing of the rollers to the clips. They cost much less, and you can buy them absolutely in any town.

Why is the rear hub bearing failing?

It often happens that this part fails due to road dust trapped in its housing. This can be due to leaked oil, but most often it happens due to the fact that water gets into the hub. Well, no one is insured against hitting a puddle. So it turns out that it is best to have a couple of such parts in your trunk, so that one fine moment you do not go home in a tow truck. But having a set of new parts with you is still half the battle. You also need to know how to change the rear hub bearing. Therefore, below we will give a small instruction for the removal and installation of this part.

rear wheel - step-by-step process

First, remove the protective cap of the hub mounting nut and lower the tightening of the wheel bolts and the mechanism itself. After that, we take a jack and raise the car by 5-10 centimeters. In this case, do not forget about additional supports. Next, turn on the first gear and put the underlays under the front wheels. Then we remove the wheel and pads. Next, using a puller, we dismantle the hub from the journal and the inner bearing race. The next step is to remove the retaining ring and then the bearing itself. All mechanisms are thoroughly washed, and a new part is pressed into the hub. The rear hub bearing is installed in the reverse order.

During the movement of the car, a specific hum may occur, changing the tonality to a low one at low revs or noise with a possible grinding at high speed. Such troubles can be created by the hub bearing. Performance characteristics, laid down by the manufacturer, should allow the driver not to think about this wheel element for a long time.

However, road realities make their own correction. The main reason for the replacement of the rear hub bearing is not physical wear, but mechanical deformation. The driver does not have time to notice all the holes on the road, and for the failure of vulnerable parts, it is enough to hit only one of them.

Constant hum from rear wheels should alert the driver, while it is necessary to stop at the nearest place and check the operation of the bearing. The term of its high-quality work is usually about 100 thousand km of run. While approaching such a parameter, you need to engage in diagnostics of their condition.

For this work, you will need to perform the following actions:

required lock the wheels located diagonally to the diagnosed ones, because you need to check on both sides, since in the cabin it is not always possible to clearly understand where the noise is coming from;
jacked up spin the wheel as much as possible hands until the familiar hum is heard, usually the characteristic problematic sound is noticeable almost immediately, because a high-quality bearing works without grinding, crunching and humming;
on a dubious wheel it is worth checking the lateral play using a simple procedure, grasping the wheel, you need to shake it away from you and towards you, and the presence of a noticeable movement is an indication for replacing the bearing.

You need to know that most car dealerships offer a hub assembly with a bearing, but if the bore diameter does not have wear or deformation, then you can not change the hub, but buy a separate repair bearing.

Replacement procedure

Before changing the rear hub bearing, we block the car with the wheel chocks. We loosen the fasteners on the wheel being diagnosed. Also, having got rid of the central cap, release the central nut by 1-2 turns. You can now jack up this side.

We install safety stands under the body and remove the wheel. The brake drum seat can be filled with WD-40 for easy dismantling. In some cases, use brake fluid or diesel fuel. Before unscrewing the guide bolts, they are usually tapped with a copper hammer so that the "stuck" thread "yields".

We dismantle the brake drum. In problem cases, a special puller is used for such an operation, and for lighter situations, bolts are screwed into the thread intended for them, with their help, an interference is created for removal.

Step 1. Remove the cap Step 2. Unscrew the nut with a puller Step 3. Remove the hub with a puller Step 4. We take out the ring and prepare the bearing Step 5. Press in the bearing with a puller Step 6. Mount the hub back Step 7. Rolling the nut

Remove the central nut and extend the entire hub axially. Sometimes a bearing cage remains on the shaft, then using a puller or chisel, dismantle it separately after the hub... We carry out the operation so as not to damage the seating surface.

We inspect the axle to identify the rotation of the bearing cage. If there are such traces (the presence of grooves on the landing diameter), then the hub will also have to be changed.

You need to know that the formation of serifs with a chisel or a breakdown on a worn surface for a more rigid fit of the bearing cage is categorically unacceptable! It is necessary to replace the worn out hub completely in such a situation!

The current replacement of the rear wheel bearing can be carried out with concomitant diagnostics of the remaining elements. It is worth checking the brake cylinder for leaks at the same time, and brake pads are monitored for wear.

With the help of a removable device, we take out the retaining ring, and, if necessary, fill it with a cleaning special fluid under it, so that the bearing can be pressed out more easily. It is customary to use one of three popular methods for dismantling the outer race from the hub:

using a hydraulic press, which is not found in every garage;
reusable puller, its cost is affordable, and the unit can be used in the future;
with a hammer or sledgehammers 2-3 kg, for this method a special spacer of the corresponding diameter is necessarily used.

We install the hub on a hard surface and apply a couple of blows to the prepared mandrel with a hammer. This is done carefully so as not to damage the seating surface with a mandrel or other parts with a heavy hammer.

The surface freed from the clip can be cleaned with fine emery paper from possible corrosion spots and then lubricated with oil (it is allowed to use mining). It will facilitate the installation of a new bearing, which must first be assembled with two washers and a bolt. The outer diameter of the washers should be 2-3 mm less than the bearing diameter.

Grease can be added to the double row separator prior to assembly. Using a hammer, preferably with a copper or bronze end, lightly tapping on opposite sides, "set" the bearing.

You need to know that bearings are made of high-alloy steel, which can crumble under strong dynamic loads (sharp impacts), therefore it is recommended to use a "soft" copper or bronze spacer so as not to damage the cages.

If at the initial stage the approach turns out to be tight, then there is probably a bias, so it is worth aligning with light blows, and not applying unnecessary force. When the new clip is halfway down, the old one can be used as a spacer. Continue until the groove for the retaining ring appears. We fix the bearing with a ring.

Hub assembly

We get rid of the tightening device from the bolt and two washers. Now you can return the hub to its place. We must install a new central nut, after having lubricated the thread with "lithol" or other grease.

We install the brake drum on the fasteners. We put the wheel and fix it with the mounting bolts. We turn the wheel "by hand" and listen to extraneous noises. The absence of hum or rattle, as well as free rotation, indicates the correct assembly.

We lower the wheel with a jack, and only after that we carry out the final tightening of the central nut. It is recommended to use a torque wrench for this operation. The tightness value should be close to 20 kg / m. This value is large enough, therefore, without a special key, it will be necessary to increase the key length. Now the hook can be screwed in and the fastening bolts on the wheel can be tightened to the required torque.

The wheel bearing, brake drum and wheel disc, there is a translational movement, braking, steering of the wheels of the car, which ensures the safety of the driver and passengers. Replacing the VAZ 2109 hub is quite possible with your own hands, if you have everything at your disposal necessary materials and tools.

The time norms for replacing the hub, according to the technical data for the VAZ 2109, are 27 minutes at removed wheel... This instruction with a photo will help to change the rear hub.

How to identify a malfunctioning suspension and hub

A sign of replacing the hub with a VAZ 2109 may be loud noise or knocking while driving. But this is an unreliable source, since there can be several reasons for knocking: parking brake strips, brake pads, silent blocks can also knock. rear pillars... It's hard to guess.

To be more precise, you need to take a jack, lift, twist, wobble and check. The wheel bearing usually does not knock, but it can buzz and vibrate on the body. A knock, and quite strong, will only make a bearing requiring replacement.

Check bearing condition it is not difficult - we raise the necessary side with a jack, twist and shake the wheel, if there is a hum - the bearing for replacement. If there is any play, check the tightness of the hub nut and wheel bolts.

It is not allowed to eliminate the play in the wheel hub bearings by overtightening the nuts. The tightening torque of the front and rear hub mounting nuts should be: rear wheel hub bearing nut 186.3-225.6 (19-23) N * m (kgf * m), hub bearing nut front wheel 225.6-247.2 (23-25.2) N * m (kgf * m).

When replacing a wheel bearing, be sure to inspect the hub, if the new bearing will be installed on it very easily, then such a hub must be replaced with a new one otherwise it will dangle. And, despite replacing the bearing, provoke vibration and knocking.

In the hubs of the front and rear wheels, double-row ball bearings with seals are used, which do not require relubrication and adjustment during operation.

When the wheel hubs are pressed out, the bearings are destroyed. Therefore, pressing out the hubs must be carried out only in cases of increased bearing noise or a significant increase in the clearance in them: more than 0.015 mm in the front and more than 0.030 in the rear.

When choosing a wheel bearing, you should know its dimensions:

the size of the bearing of the rear hub VAZ 2109 - 60 mm ( outside diameter), 30 mm (inner diameter), 37 mm (width), catalog number 6256706Е1С17;
the size of the bearing of the front hub VAZ 2109 - 64 mm (outer diameter), 34 mm (inner diameter), 37 mm (width), catalog number 2108310302001.

The price of a VAZ 2109 bearing is 600 rubles, relevant for Moscow and the region (spring 2017).

To replace the hub VAZ 2109 you need such a tool:

jack and wheel wrench;
a 30 mm socket wrench and a long pipe on it;
pliers for removing retaining rings;
simple pliers or box wrench "12" (for unscrewing the guide pins of the rear brake drum);
wooden block and hammer;
chisel and pry bar;
universal puller for pressing out the hub or a reverse hammer;
a new hub for a VAZ 2109 with the article number 21083104014 or 21103104014.

First, with a chisel or screwdriver, you must unlock the collar of the hub bearing nut.

Then we take the head "at 30" ...

… And loosen the hub bearing nut.

Loosen the wheel bolts.

We jack up the car. Tightening hand brake, turn on the first gear and substitute the shoes under the wheels. Unscrew the 4 wheel bolts and remove it.

Using the "12" key, unscrew the two guides.

If the guide does not unscrew, it must be “shaken” with a hammer by tapping lightly.

We remove the brake drum.

We install a reverse hammer on the hub ...

… And remove the hub.

We take a new hub assembly.

Unfortunately, sometimes our cars break down and need to be repaired, it is necessary to change various parts, optics, and in some cases it is necessary to replace the rear hub bearing, however, as statistics show, this happens quite rarely.

How to recognize a hub problem?

The fact is that the hub is essential element any rotating mechanism, including car wheel... It is the central part of rotating parts with a hole for the possibility of attaching it to an axis or shaft. Thus, its main task is to provide rotary motion. In order for the rotation on the axis not to be free, rolling bearings or special plugs are pressed into the hole of the hub. In addition, it is thanks to the bearings that the hub, as well as the wheel, can rotate.

It is quite easy to notice that the replacement of the hub bearing is urgently needed, in this case there is a characteristic knock in the rear lower part of the body, most often, it intensifies when driving on an uneven road or when hitting pits, as well as bumps. While driving on a relatively flat road surface, hum may occur. In addition, the brake drum gets very hot.

We check if it is necessary to replace the bearing of the rear wheel hub

First of all, the reason for such a breakdown is bad uneven roads, especially since in some cases our road surface can hardly be called a road at all. The second reason why a bearing may become unusable is poor quality material from which it was made. rear wheel - not very difficult process, so it can be done quite easily on your own at home.

However, before proceeding directly to the action, you should find out whether the case is really in it. To do this, it is necessary to hang out the wheel from which the hum is heard, and, swinging it with your hands, check the backlash. If, during the implementation of these actions, a backlash is detected, and at the same time dull knocks occur, then it is impossible to hesitate with the replacement. A bearing that falls apart on the way will damage other parts of the wheel hub system.

The key to fast and high-quality work is the right tool and high-quality materials, in this case the bearing. Therefore, do not try to save on it, buy options only from good manufacturers, because the service life largely depends on this.

Rear hub bearing replacement - your steps step by step

From the tool you will need a screwdriver, jack, wheel wrench, lithol, hub nut puller, sometimes chisels and a pry bar. Further, having prepared everything you need, we proceed as follows. We put the car in first gear, having previously placed "shoes" under the front wheels. We lift the car with a jack and dismantle the desired wheel. Having unscrewed the guide pins, you need to remove the brake drum, most often it is knocked down. Now the hub nut is unscrewed with a special puller and the hub itself is knocked off the trunnion. It must come off together with the bearing ring, otherwise it must be removed with a pry bar and a chisel.

In order to press in the bearing itself, it is necessary to remove the retaining ring with special pliers and knock down the metal boot. Next, you need to lubricate the seat and press the new bearings back using a special puller. At the same time, keep in mind that it is extremely undesirable to score them.... Now back and retaining ring. Striking the inner ring of the bearing, we put the hub back on the trunnion. Next, you need to tighten the trunnion and hush its sides as best as possible. The process is almost complete, the pads, the brake drum and, of course, the wheel are being installed in their original places.

The rear hub bearing of the VAZ 2109 can be changed in several ways. The quality of the repair depends on the "correctness" of the choice. Below you will find detailed instructions with a description of each method. You can decide for yourself which one is closer to you. At the service station you will not be asked what is best, and will do it your way. This is a good reason to delve into the "topic" and make a replacement yourself, especially since such a repair is within the power of everyone.

Reasons and symptoms of the need for replacement

The rear wheel doesn't need to turn, so the mounting system is pretty simple. The bearing, pressed tightly into the hub, rotates on the shaft. Backlash is not allowed in the design, and the rotation should be smooth.

Good wheel bearing usually serves at least 100 thousand km, but the quality of roads makes its own adjustments. The main enemies are pits and dirt. A strong impact can damage the part very quickly. Do not forget about normal wear and tear.

Such a breakdown is hard to miss. While driving, you will hear a clear howl or hum from the rear of the car (amplified in corners). For a more "targeted" check, you need to add rear wheel and strongly promote it (if possible). If you hear noise during rotation, it's time to change. Lateral "wiggle" knocks indicate extreme wear. In the latter case, do not delay the repair.

Check both wheels. By ear, it is not always possible to correctly identify the side. The breakage was found, now we turn to preparation.

A necessary tool for working on a VAZ 2109

The complexity and speed of the repair directly depends on the availability of a special tool. There is a minimum required set:

a hammer (where can we go without it) and a wooden block or small board;
pliers for removing retaining rings (alternatively, an awl or a thin screwdriver);
key or head 12;
30 head with a wrench (for easier unscrewing, lengthen the wrench with a pipe).

To speed up additionally use:

three-armed hub puller;
two-armed puller for the inner bearing race;
universal puller for pressing in / out;
chisel.

For alternative methods without using pullers, see the instructions below.

When choosing a bearing, pay attention to the Saratov ones with the SPZ marking and the Vologda ones (VBF). Bearings from Samara are notorious, and imported ones are not worth the overpaid money. Therefore, the first two options are the best combination of price and quality.

How to replace the rear hub bearing: instructions

We will not describe the removal of the wheel. The main thing is not to neglect your safety - substitute an additional emphasis under the threshold of the car (unscrewed wheel, stump, special stand). Before removing, you need to remove the central plug and align the locking "collar" on the fastening nut (a flat screwdriver or chisel will help). Now "rip off" the nut with a 30 mm head wrench (twist counterclockwise). At this point, the wheel must be on the ground or an assistant is needed to press the brake pedal hard.
"Rip off" the nut Straighten the collar Remove the cap
In the next step, you need to remove the brake drum. Complications are possible here. During operation, it often "sticks". Unscrew the guides immediately, then screw them into the adjacent holes of the same diameter and continue twisting until the disc moves.
If "does not go" or the thread is torn off, then knock the drum with blows from the back side. Use a rubber mallet or a regular hammer with a block of wood to avoid chipping.
You now have direct access to the hub. Unscrew the nut completely and remove the washer from under it.
Remove the hub from seat in three ways:
- If you're lucky, you will remove it with your hands. Pull with jerks or use the pry bar as a lever. Bad luck? See below.
- Screw two long (15–20 cm) bolts into the wheel attachment points. Screw them in until the hub moves from the "dead" point (in the fourth step, you removed the brake drum in a similar way).
- Use a special three-legged puller.
If you screw the drum back to the hub (photo below), then you can apply more effort.
Improving the grip Three-legged puller Using long bolts
After withdrawal, you will also have several options for the development of events. Good - the bearing was completely removed, bad - the inner race remained on the shaft. In the latter case, you will have to additionally curl up. It is necessary to remove the brake pads and rip the metal ring off with a chisel. Now you can hook it on with a two-arm puller or pry bars (depending on what is available) and dismantle it. If there are notches after the chisel, they must be smoothed out with a file, otherwise the new bearing may not completely "sit" in place.
We eliminate damage Mount option Two-legged puller We use a chisel
to install new part, you need to free up space. A faulty bearing can be removed with a special puller or simply knocked out. In the second option, you need to choose a suitable stop.
Do not forget to remove the retaining ring before "knocking out" or pressing out.

You can beat without regret Use a special tool Pull out the retaining ring
If at the previous stage it made no sense to take care of the bearing, then the new spare part should not be subjected to shock loads. Choose one of three mounting methods:
The most difficult part is already over, it remains only to collect everything in the correct order. To remember, put the retaining ring back in place right away. To slide the hub onto the shaft, use a spacer to fit the inner bearing race. With light blows of a hammer, "put" it in place. Just don't hit hard, the hub should "go in" easily. If not, clean and lubricate the seat.
Replace the washer and tighten the nut to 30. Clamp it finally and close when the wheel is on the ground. The rear hub is not adjustable, so you need to clamp it tightly, but with the presence of common sense (the wheel should spin freely).

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