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How does the spool in the steering rack work. Hydraulic steering rack auto - device and principle of operation

11.10.2021

The steering rack serves as the main control element of most modern passenger cars. With its help, the rotation of the steering wheel is converted into the rotation of the front wheels relative to the axis of the car. This unit is distinguished by its simplicity of design and a high margin of safety. Like all other vehicle units, the rail has to be serviced and repaired. Therefore, it will be useful for car owners to know its structure and principle of operation.

How the steering rack works

The designs differ depending on the type of unit and the car model. Only the list of basic details does not change:

  • Crankcase (cylinder) - aluminum body.
  • Gear, mated with the steering wheel shaft.
  • A toothed bar with a spring that presses the drive gear.
  • Locks to limit the course.
  • Oil seals to prevent oil leakage.
  • Bearings that provide easy movement of the rack in the housing and reduce the backlash of parts.

The toothed bar moves when the gear turns. It is connected to the rods that transmit the force to the steering knuckles of the front wheels.

Depending on the modification, the unit may include hydraulic cylinders or electric motors to facilitate steering.

Varieties of steering racks

Three types of mechanisms are installed on passenger cars. They are distinguished by the presence or absence of auxiliary devices that facilitate management.

Mechanical steering rack

The simplest version of the device, in which the steering wheels are turned by the efforts of the driver. To reduce the load on the hands and at the same time facilitate control on the track, racks are installed in the cars, in which a variable number increases with an increase in the angle of rotation of the wheels. This makes parking maneuvers easier and provides a "sharp steering" at speed.

Hydraulic steering rack

The driver's impact is complemented by a hydraulic booster. This allows you to create easy and at the same time "sharp" control.

Power steering softens the loads that arise when driving over bumps. The only drawback of such a device is the deterioration of the "sensitivity". It is compensated in two ways:

  • install an electric power steering with feedback;
  • change the design of the suspension.

Electric steering rack

In these devices, the driver's influence on the steering wheel is amplified by the engine. It is powered by the on-board electrical system. Depending on the location, there are three types of assemblies in which the motor is attached to the steering shaft, column and in the rack housing. The last option is the most reliable.

A design with an electric motor on a shaft is dangerous in that in the event of a breakdown, it practically stops working.

Today, on most production cars of the budget and middle class, a power steering rack is installed.

Diagnostics and repair

The driver's comfort and safety on the road depend on the serviceability of the device. The simple design of the power steering rack allows you to perform repair and diagnostic work at home. To detect breakdowns and replace parts, special equipment and fixtures are required.

Power steering rack faults: symptoms

To protect yourself on the road, you must regularly conduct a thorough check of the technical condition of the control mechanism. Serious breakdowns manifest themselves explicitly and do not require special detection equipment. Just pay attention to the following signs:

  • Difficulty turning the steering wheel or not returning to the center position after turning. This happens as a result of deformation of the rack, crankcase or shaft.
  • Knock when driving over bumps and holes, decreasing when the wheels are set to the extreme position. The reason is the wear of the steering column cardan joints, the rod joints, the erasure of the teeth of the central gear of the rack.
  • Increased sensitivity is a discrepancy between the angle of rotation of the wheels and the steering wheel, or a situation when, at the slightest movement of the hands, the car “throws it to the sides”. This happens as a result of malfunctions in the hydraulic system of the power steering.
  • Reducing the level of fluid in the reservoir, the appearance of smudges and oil stains on the anthers. Leakage occurs as a result of shaft corrosion and wear of rubber seals.

Almost all models of modern passenger cars are presented in the form of a steering rack. It is a mechanical unit designed to convert steering wheel deflection into horizontal deflection of the front wheels. Initially, the steering rack device was not particularly complicated. In its simplest form, this is a mechanism consisting of a gear located on the steering shaft, a rack mated to it, and steering rods.

Types and versions

Currently, there are three types of rack and pinion mechanisms. The difference between them lies in the principle of action.

Mechanical steering rack

The simplest steering option. The turning of the wheels is carried out exclusively by the physical strength of the driver. In order to facilitate the driver's work and improve driving comfort, many vehicles use a variable steering rack. In other words, the pitch of the rack teeth changes from the middle to the edges. Such a device at small steering angles, which is typical for driving at high speeds, provides a large gear ratio, heavy and sharp steering wheel. At the same time, when maneuvering in a parking lot, when the steering wheel has to be turned "from edge to edge", it is easy to do this due to the lower gear ratio. The first domestic car where such a design was applied was the VAZ-2110.

Hydraulic steering rack

It differs from the mechanical one in that the mechanical effect that the driver has on the steering wheel is amplified by the hydraulic booster. This allows for both sharpness and ease of steering. Such a device is most often used in modern cars.


The power steering also contributes to increased driving safety, since the unevenness of the road is not transmitted to the steering wheel so much, and if the car gets into a hole with the front wheel at high speed, the impact will be repeatedly extinguished by the power steering, and the steering wheel will not be pulled out of the hands, as will happen on a car with mechanical rail. However, there is a downside to this coin, because worse feedback leads to a decrease in the "feeling of the car". Automakers are trying to compensate for this shortcoming by changing the design of the suspension, as well as by using an electric motor to drive the power steering (electric hydraulic booster).

Electric steering rack

The principle of operation is similar to the hydraulic one, only the amplification is performed by an electric motor, which is either built into the steering column (the cheapest and more dangerous option), or is located on the steering shaft, or integrated with the rack (the safest option, used on high-class cars).


The option of placing an electric motor in the steering column is dangerous in that if it fails, the car becomes practically uncontrollable, since it is impossible to turn the steering wheel. Unfortunately, this sometimes sinned the Lada Priora cars of the first years of production - the EURs on them were not highly reliable.

Such a device has many advantages:

  • higher efficiency in comparison with the hydraulic booster;
  • efficiency (the electric motor turns on only when the steering wheel is turned, while the oil in the power steering constantly circulates, which takes away some of the engine power;
  • independence from ambient temperature;
  • no need to regularly service the device, because no need to change and top up the working fluid;
  • higher overall reliability due to the absence of hoses, gaskets and seals that could leak.

Structure

The design of a mechanical steering rack is as follows. Inside the crankcase, which has a sectional view of a hollow cylinder, there is a protective corrugated cover. On bearings in the crankcase there is a drive gear, against which the steering rack is pressed by a spring. The spring is required to eliminate the gap in the gear-rack pair. The travel of the rack is limited on one side by a restrictive ring, and on the other - by the steering rod joint bushing. This steering rack layout is extremely simple and reliable.

Malfunction symptoms

The correctness of the steering is the key to safe driving, so you need to monitor its condition. This does not mean that you need to carry out a thorough check before each trip, because the breakdown does not happen all of a sudden. There are signs of malfunction of the steering rack, by which you can judge the need for repair.

  1. Knock, manifested when driving on small irregularities, decreases when the steering wheel is turned to extreme positions.
  2. Lack of effort when turning the steering wheel.
  3. The steering effort disappears in the center position.
  4. Spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel.
  5. The steering wheel does not return or returns poorly to center when the vehicle exits a corner.
  6. Increased sensitivity of the car (it is thrown to the side with a slight turn of the steering wheel, the angle of rotation of the wheels does not correspond to the angle of rotation of the steering wheel).
  7. A constant drop in the level of fluid in the power steering reservoir, as well as its appearance in the anthers of the steering rods.

The steering rack is a mechanism that transfers the rotation of the steering wheel to the rotation of the wheels. The simplest device of this mechanism is a gear on the steering shaft, from which the steering rack pulls. But with the development of the automotive industry, more complex mechanisms have been developed. Today there are three types of steering racks: mechanical, electrical and hydraulic. They have a different device and mode of operation.

Steering rack device

All types of system have a similar structure: the rack has teeth that move along the steering column gear. These teeth have a gear ratio that is specially selected for the correct transmission of force. Some types contain additional devices to facilitate car control.

Mechanical steering rack device

This type of rail has the simplest device. The rotation of the wheels is carried out only by the effort of the driver. It consists of gears that work in the same way as a gearbox.

The system has two gear mechanisms, one connected to the steering wheel drive, and the other to the wheel rods. They have a specific gear ratio that makes the driver's task easier. Even a small movement of the steering wheel is capable of deflecting the wheels from the horizontal axis. This is especially convenient when maneuvering in confined spaces: the driver can easily turn the steering wheel all the way and steer the wheels.

Power steering rack

On almost all new cars, in addition to the standard rail, power steering is installed - a power steering. It makes driving easy and enjoyable. It also helps to extinguish holes and bumps on the road - they do not hit the steering wheel, which makes driving safe.

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Power steering rack device: it consists of a pump in which the working fluid moves. When you turn the steering wheel, it presses on the piston with a rod, which is responsible for turning the wheels. In neutral steering position, all fluid returns to normal position.

The power steering rack first appeared on trucks that were difficult to drive. But with the development of technical progress, they began to install it on passenger cars.

Electric power steering rack

This type of mechanism has an electric motor to enhance the conversion of steering movement to wheel deflection. It is controlled by an ECU and special sensors.

There are three ways to mount this system: the motor is positioned on the rail, the motor is built into the column, or the motor is positioned on the shaft. The option with a built-in motor in the steering column is considered the most dangerous: if it fails, the car becomes uncontrollable.

Today this mechanism is considered the most progressive, since it has the highest efficiency of all types. It is easy to maintain: there is no need to top up the working fluid, there are no oil seals that could leak. It is also economical, while fluid constantly flows in the power steering, the electric motor starts only when the steering wheel rotates.

Scheme of work

It is not very difficult to understand what a rail is in a car. From the steering wheel there is a steering column, which at the end has a gear with a gear ratio. In the timing gear, this pinion meets the pinion on the rack. Depending on the type of construction, pistons with a working fluid or an electric motor with a control unit are located further. After that, the torque is transmitted to the steering rods to the wheels.

This is a simplified diagram of the device, which is necessary to understand the principle of operation. In fact, the steering rack consists of regulating elements: springs, bushings, stops.

Malfunctions

Any unit in the car can break down. This happens especially often on long runs. Over time, parts wear out and become unusable. But there may be other reasons for car breakdowns.

Causes of malfunction

The global reason why this mechanism can break down is the poor quality of the roads. Car enthusiasts are unable to improve it, but they can drive a car more attentively: bypass pits and bumps, slow down on a bad road, and not operate a city car in off-road conditions.

In poor road conditions, not only the suspension can deteriorate, but also the oil seals and anthers of the steering mechanism can fail. And through the holes in them, road dust can get into the mechanism. Most often, it is she who is the cause of the breakdown of the gear mechanism.

Symptoms: Diagnostics

Do-it-yourself steering rack diagnostics suggests that the driver must pay attention to the slightest changes in driving. Signs of a defective steering rack:

    Weighting the steering wheel in certain positions;

    Knock on the rail;

    Steering vibration;

    Power steering fluid leak;

    Incomplete return of the steering wheel to its original position;

    The steering wheel rotation does not match the rotation of the wheels.

The most common symptom is knocking at the front of the vehicle. Diagnostics of the steering rack in a car service is the most obvious way out. Most likely, the master recognizes its breakdown and offers to replace it.

But remember that some breakdowns can be repaired. For example, if a mechanical type is installed on your car, the master can disassemble the device, find the breakdown and fix it. You just need to find a reliable technician and compare the price of repair and the cost of replacing the steering rack. It is worth it to repair the steering rack or not - decide for yourself, it depends on the type of device and its price.

Major malfunctions

There are two main signs of serviceability - knocking and fluid leakage. They can talk about many breakdowns, which a car service master will help you find. Possible malfunctions of the steering rack:

    Surface knocking can occur due to damage to the anthers. In this case, the traction ends quickly fail and begin to knock. In this case, they are simply replaced with new ones.

    Internal knocks may indicate a malfunction of the pistons or guide bushings. For diagnostics, you will need to disassemble the mechanism and identify a breakdown. Only a specialist can determine the knock on the steering rack and its character.

    Also, a knock can talk about the production of parts on high mileage of the car. This breakdown cannot be repaired; the mechanism must be replaced with a new one.

    Leaks can only occur on a power-assisted device. She says that the oil seals are out of order and need to be replaced. If a leak occurs, the rail should be disassembled and all parts inspected. If you have a question about what to do if the steering rack leaks, you should buy a repair kit and take it to a service for repair.

    If it is impossible to turn the steering wheel with the EUR, this may be due to the failure of the electric motor.

    If the steering wheel with power steering turns hard, this may indicate a pump malfunction.

How to distinguish a malfunction of a steering rack from a breakdown of a power steering

Faults in the power steering can be recognized by the characteristic symptoms:

    Power steering disappeared under any conditions;

    Gain disappears only when the engine is idling;

    Extraneous noise when the amplifier is operating;

    The working fluid is foaming.

If you have these symptoms, consult a professional who understands how the power steering rack works for troubleshooting.

Remember, prevention is the best way to prevent malfunctions. To extend the life of this mechanism, simple rules should be followed:

    Check the anthers regularly. If a crack or a hole has formed on them, it is better to replace them immediately.

    In winter, you first need to warm up the engine and only then start moving and turn the steering wheel. It is best to turn the steering wheel slightly from side to side in place to warm up the oil.

    Slow down in front of pits and bumps and try to go around them.

    Remember to change the power steering fluid.

    Do not jump sharply from the spot, especially if the steering wheel is twisted all the way.

A steering rack is a mechanical device that transfers power from the steering gear to the wheels. The steering rack device looks complicated outwardly, but few craftsmen understand the internal mechanisms and know how to repair them. Therefore, in the event of a malfunction, a good car service should be found in order to troubleshoot the steering systems or change the entire mechanism.

Repair of steering racks is a difficult process that a novice car enthusiast cannot cope with.

Features of steering racks on cars

All modern cars are equipped with amplifiers to make it easier for the driver to drive. Plus, they provide safety in challenging environments. To ensure that the driver does not lose his sense of the road, manufacturers resort to modifications to the suspension.

Ford

Many car enthusiasts complain that steering racks often break on cars from this manufacturer. This applies to almost all models, but the owners of Ford Focus especially have a lot of problems. Some batches of this model had defective rails that were assembled on old equipment. They broke down already in the first thousand kilometers.

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Most of the models from this manufacturer have a hydraulic booster. On some modern versions, an EUR is installed.

Renault

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All Renault models are equipped with power steering. It does not cause problems with regular maintenance. We must not forget to change the power steering fluid, then it will last a long time. Remember to only use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer because it works best with these vehicles.

Toyota

Toyota installs a hydraulic booster on its models. It makes it easier to drive a car and is responsible for the comfort of the trip. On these cars, it works stably and rarely breaks down.

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This brand produces cars in the price category above the average, so modern models are equipped with a more expensive analogue - an electric booster. But his weakness is that he is afraid of damp weather. You should not drive such cars through deep puddles, so as not to damage the electronics of the car.

Opel

Power steering is installed on most models of this brand. There are usually no problems with him, but some motorists complain about the pumps in the Opel Vectra. It is difficult to repair, so it is recommended to replace it with a new one.

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EUR is installed in modern Opel Astra. Judging by the reviews of motorists, it can turn off when turning and does not work well in wet weather. This could be due to faulty sensors or poor wire connections. Usually, when these problems are eliminated, the electric amplifier works stably.

Lada Kalina: renovation

There are two generations of Kalina, both have an electric amplifier. It is a conventional mechanical rail, which is amplified by an electric motor. It is easy to install, therefore it is present in all trim levels of this model. But its minus is that it turns on at both low and high speeds.

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Unfortunately, the EUR breaks down both on cars with high mileage and on new cars. Most often, the reason lies in the control unit. At the same time, a light on the dashboard lights up, and the steering wheel stops turning. If this happens suddenly, stop and turn off the power to this unit. Then you can get to the service, where they will remove and change the unit for you.

VAZ

The abbreviation VAZ most often means classic models - from "penny" to "twelfth". They are equipped with a conventional mechanical rail without amplifiers. Problems with it can begin only due to mechanical damage to the anthers or physical wear of parts.

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Today VAZ produces models with hydraulic and electric boosters. This is required by the development of technology and customer requests. Their breakdowns are similar to breakdowns on other cars, most often they appear at high mileage.

22 September 2017

The steering rack is a mechanism responsible for turning the front wheels of a car and connected to them by means of rods. Like any other unit, the element gradually wears out during operation, which negatively affects the controllability of the machine. Since this problem is related to the safety of the driver and passengers, the owner of the car needs to distinguish between signs of malfunction of the steering rack in order to eliminate them as soon as possible or install a new spare part.

Briefly about the structure of the mechanism

The element is a cylindrical body, where the following parts are placed:

  • the gear rack itself, moving inside the bushings;
  • a drive shaft with a helical gear, rotating on 2 bearings (connected to the steering column);
  • 2 rods connected to the ends of the rack and pinion and the steering knuckles of the hubs;
  • a system of stops and springs that limit the rack travel and select the gear backlash;
  • rubber covers (anthers) in the form of round "accordions" that protect the mechanism crankcase from dirt;
  • the cell body is filled with liquid grease.

This is the device of a conventional mechanical and so-called electric rack, which operates in tandem with an electric power steering (EUR). If the car is equipped with a hydraulic booster (power steering), then the design of the mechanism is supplemented with cylinders and pistons that help to move the gear bar in one direction or another.

The element works according to a simple principle: when the steering wheel rotates, the drive shaft by means of a gear moves the rack in the required direction. The ends of the part associated with the rods cause the front wheels to turn. Power steering or EUR reacts to the movement of the steering wheel and "pushes" the rack and pinion mechanism in the right direction, removing the physical stress from the driver.

Symptoms of a problem

Since most passenger cars are equipped with a hydraulic booster, the symptoms of wear and tear should be considered in conjunction with the power steering elements - a pump, a control valve and oil lines.

The malfunctions of the rack and pinion mechanism are divided into explicit and hidden. The motorist himself is able to identify the first in the process of movement or as a result of inspection of components and assemblies. In the second case, the master of the service station can clearly identify the malfunction. Your task is to respond in time and contact the service station when the following symptoms appear:

  1. A knock heard in the front of the car when driving over bumps, especially when cornering. The location of the sound is approximately in the center where the staff is installed.
  2. When driving over shallow bumps or loose surfaces, vibration is clearly transmitted to the steering wheel.
  3. After passing the turn, the steering wheel reluctantly returns to its original position or remains turned. When you try to turn quickly, the steering wheel becomes heavier.
  4. The free wheeling of the steering wheel has noticeably increased, which is why the car "prowls" on a straight section of the road and requires constant correction of the trajectory from the driver's side.
  5. Rumble, whistle and other extraneous sounds.
  6. To turn, you have to apply a lot of effort on the steering wheel.
  7. Critical breakdown - jamming of the mechanism or spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel without changing the direction of movement.

Note. The specificity of the knock of the rack and pinion mechanism is the central location, which makes the driver feel as if the sound comes from both sides at once. A confirmation sign is vibration on the steering wheel and an increase in backlash.

If it was possible to unequivocally find out that the steering rack knocks, make an external inspection of the unit. Pay special attention to the rubber boots - they can be seen through the front wheel arches and partially under the hood. The best option is a survey on a viewing ditch. Gusts and oil on the "accordions" indicate that water and dirt have entered the element, accelerating the wear of all parts.

Other external signs of failure are grease drips on the unit casing. If you do not immediately notice a leaky oil seal, the oil level in the crankcase will drop and the so-called annular wear of the housing and power cylinder will begin. Consequences - costly replacement of the assembly.

If you have a power steering, you need to inspect not only the rail, but also the power steering elements - the pump, belt drive and oil hoses. Look into the expansion tank - a low level will immediately make it clear that lubricant is being lost as a result of a leak. Additional confirmation - fresh spots under the car at the place of permanent storage.

We wrote about the problem in more detail.

Unlike power steering, electric amplifiers do not show signs of malfunction and fail immediately. But such cases are rare, in general, the EUR is a fairly reliable unit.

What to do about a faulty rail?

In the overwhelming majority of cases, the replacement or repair of the steering rack is carried out at a car service, since even removing an element is not an easy task. But you can solve minor problems yourself, for example:

  1. Replace broken rubber boot. If you find this defect at an early stage, when the rack and pinion mechanism is functioning properly, then you can change the casing in the garage on the inspection pit. Do not forget to clean the dirt from the parts under the boot.
  2. Repair hydraulic fluid leaks at the pipes. To do this, you will have to empty the system and replace the hoses, it is better all at once.
  3. Install new tie rod ends. Signs of wear on the ball pins are very similar to a malfunctioning steering rack - there is steering play and knocking.
  4. Replace the broken steering shaft cross.
  5. Tighten or change the belt that drives the hydraulic pump pulley. Slipping of the belt drive leads to a deterioration in the operation of the amplifier and difficult rotation of the steering wheel.

The rack design provides for the adjustment of the gaps in the transfer unit. In the early stages of gear wear, backlash is eliminated by tightening the adjusting screws. It is highly undesirable to perform the operation yourself: if you overdo it and do not leave any gaps, the gear train will wear out even faster.

When the problem lies inside the rack and pinion housing, it will not be possible to eliminate the knocking on your own, unless you yourself are an auto mechanic. The most common internal faults are:

  • development of teeth on a rack or steering shaft;
  • bearing play;
  • depressurization of oil seals;
  • annular wear of bushings, cylinders;
  • deformation of the shaft or the rack itself as a result of the wheel hitting a deep pothole and hitting the mechanism.

Some of the breakdowns listed are eliminated by installing repair kits in a car service. It is better not to change the worn parts of the gear train separately - it is necessary to install a new rack.

The steering rack transfers rotation from the steering wheel to the wheels. It affects handling, and any malfunctions in this unit make the car less obedient. Steering rack elements are subject to natural wear and tear and are subject to shock loads from driving on uneven roads. This leads to the fact that the steering rack of almost every car needs to be replaced or repaired by a mileage of 200–250 thousand km.

8 signs of a faulty steering rack

    When driving over bumps and when turning the steering wheel, a knock is heard in the area of ​​the steering rack.

    The handling has deteriorated, the car "throws", it is especially acutely felt at high speed.

    Rudder free play (backlash) is increased.

    The steering wheel turns harder than usual or jerks.

    The steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, you have to turn it with your hands.

    The power steering pump makes noise, the sound intensifies when the steering wheel is turned.

    The oil level in the power steering reservoir is dropping.

    Oil leaks are visible on or near the rail.

Suspension elements can knock - ball bearings, steering tips, silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer struts. The wear of these parts leads to poor handling, increased steering wheel play. The suspension must be checked, defective elements must be replaced.

Heavy rotation of the steering wheel, non-return or slow return to the starting position may be the result of improper adjustment of the rack or violation of wheel alignment. If you have recently adjusted the rack, redo it, but already correctly, check the wheel alignment angles at the workshop.

For cars with an electric power steering, the cause of a "heavy" steering wheel may be an electric motor failure, open or short circuit, oxidation of contacts in the connectors, a malfunction of the system control unit or blown fuses.

Leakage of fluid from the power steering system and the noise of the power steering pump are associated - oil flows out through worn out oil seals and seals. Through them, air enters the system, due to which the pump makes noise. Inspect the pump housing, hoses and connections; if you find a leak, fix it.

How to determine wear of parts inside the rail?

On a muffled car, shake the steering wheel left and right with a small amplitude. If you hear a knock, repair is needed. If there is an assistant, let him at this time take hold of the steering rod with his hand, so you can more accurately determine where the backlash is.

Repair or replace?

Replacing a faulty rail with a new one is easier than repairing it. But more expensive. Consider the cost of repairing the rail of a 2009 Ford Focus II. The new original rail costs 45,000 rubles. Substitutes offer to buy at a price of 20,000 rubles, but their resource, according to car owners, is unpredictable.

A repair kit for a Ford Focus II rail costs 2,500 rubles, anthers with clamps - 600 rubles. The savings are obvious, but it will take about 2 days to remove, repair and install the unit. For dismantling and installation, a regular set of wrenches is suitable, but in order to disassemble and assemble the rail, you need a special tool, which you will have to buy or make yourself.

Before starting the repair, try to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, compare the benefits of self-repair and the upcoming labor costs.

Removing the steering rack

Dismantling the rail has its own characteristics for each car, but in general, the procedure is as follows:

    Install the front part of the car on supports, remove the wheels.

    Press out the steering tips from the steering knuckle pins (use a special puller).

    Remove the heat shield of the rail.

    For cars with a power steering - unscrew the oil supply and return hoses (place a container under the hoses to drain the fluid), for cars with an electric power steering - disconnect the connector or remove the steering shaft position sensor.

    Remove the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe or engine shield (depending on the make and model of the car).

    Loosen the pinning bolt of the universal joint between the rack and the steering shaft.

    Pull the rack in the direction of the steering shaft to release the spline connection (if the rack does not go, it is allowed to knock it down with light hammer blows).

    Pull out the rack through the left or right wheel arch (depending on the layout of the engine compartment).

Pressing out the steering tip with a puller

Tip: not in every car you can get the rail just like that - the stretcher can interfere. Removing it completely is long and difficult, try to unscrew only the rear bolts and the engine support, then take the subframe down. This is often enough and the rake is released.

To remove the rail in the Peugeot 308, you need to unscrew the rear bolts of the subframe and swing it down, this is easier than removing the entire subframe.

After dismantling, the rail must be cleaned of dirt and washed.

Disassembling the rail

It is better to disassemble and assemble the steering rack clean, without sand and dust. If abrasive particles get inside, the surfaces and seals will quickly wear out, the rack will flow. Fix the rail in a locksmith's vice, if not, place clean cardboard or other material in place of disassembly.

Important: do not clamp the rail too tightly in a vice - its brittle aluminum alloy body may burst or deform.

Steering rack disassembly procedure

    Remove the clamps and pull off the steering boot boots.

    Securely fix the rack housing and unscrew the steering rods (there are grooves for an open-end wrench on the threaded sleeve).

    Unscrew the locknut and nut of the adjusting mechanism, remove the washers and the pressure sleeve from the seat.

    Unscrew the drive shaft housing or nut (a special wrench may be needed), remove the shaft from the housing.

    Pull out the rack rack.

    Take out the sealing collars, bushings and PTFE rings from the rack housing.

The location of the drive shaft and toothed rod in the steering rack

Tip: Before disassembling the rack, mark the position of the toothed rod or measure how much it protrudes from the body on both sides, so that you can reassemble it correctly. Mark the position of the adjusting nut and count the turns as you unscrew it in order to set the pressure sleeve in the correct position after assembly.

Troubleshooting details

The parts of the disassembled rail must be wiped off oil, cleaned of deposits and carefully examined. In repair kits, only rubber seals and PTFE bushings with rings are usually supplied. This may not be enough for every case.

Carefully inspect the surface of the toothed rod for damage and wear. Pay particular attention to the working area - the teeth and the part of the stem that comes into contact with the rings, seals and bushings. Any damage, corrosion, risks and scuffing will lead to rapid wear of the seals and leakage of the rack.

Deep corrosion of the rod stem. Such a detail cannot be used.

There should be no cracks, notches, chips and deep wear on the bevel teeth of the drive shaft gear. It is dangerous to install a shaft with such damage - the rack can jam in motion.

A common cause of knocks in the rail is wear of the pressure sleeve. The working surface of the part must be smooth, without traces of punching and scoring. The clamping sleeve is usually not in the rack repair kit, but for many cars it can be purchased separately.

Wear of the pressure sleeve - the PTFE insert is pressed through


Severely worn and damaged rail parts cannot be repaired in a garage. If problems are found during troubleshooting, contact specialized service stations for help. There they can restore the shaft and the rod of the rack using professional equipment.

Assembling the rail

Assemble the rail in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the parts with power steering oil before installation so that no scoring occurs on the bushings.

Insert PTFE rings and bushings into the rack housing carefully - the material is fragile and can burst from impacts or great force. For accurate insertion, you can use an appropriately sized socket and extension from the wrench set.

After installing the toothed rod, center it according to the marks made before disassembling, then insert and screw the drive shaft.

Insert the clamping sleeve and washers into the socket, tighten the adjusting nut by the required number of turns and turn the mechanism by hand several times from lock to lock (you need to rotate by the drive shaft). If the rack is assembled correctly, the toothed rod should move easily without jamming. Tighten the adjuster locknut.

Tighten the tie rods and install the anthers, squeeze them with special clamps.

Important: do not put plastic ties instead of clamps, they do not provide reliable crimping of the boot, moisture will get into the rail, the stem will rust and damage the cuffs. The rail will flow.

Installing the steering rack

It is better to put the steering rack on the car with an assistant - one starts the rack from the side of the engine compartment, the other directs the cardan joint into the shaft splines from the passenger compartment. The cardan joint can only be put in one position - there is a special casting in the splined joint, which must be combined with the groove on the mating part. Do not immediately tighten the pinch bolt - the cardan joint will take the correct position on the splines after the rail and subframe are finally screwed on.

Install and tighten the steering rack and subframe mounting bolts, then finally tighten the steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt.

Insert the pins of the steering ends into the trunnions and tighten the nuts. Connect the tubes and hoses of the power steering (or wire connectors for the system with EUR). Fill the power steering fluid into the reservoir up to the “maximum” mark.

Install the wheels and, without removing the car from the stands, start bleeding the system (for cars with power steering).

How to pump the power steering system

    Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock with a slight delay in the extreme positions.

    Remove the car from the stands, add fluid to the power steering reservoir if the level drops.

    Start the engine.

    Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock, also with a delay in the extreme positions.

    Make sure that the power steering pump does not make noise, add fluid to the tank if the level has dropped and inspect the connections, hoses and power steering tubes for leaks.

Advice: do not rush to install the heat shield, it will be more difficult to inspect the rail during the test ride.

After bleeding, check again the tightness of all threaded connections and make a test drive. Repair of the steering rack can be considered successful if:

    The steering wheel has become lighter and "sharper".

    The knocking and noises stopped.

    The fluid level in the power steering reservoir does not drop.

    The rail does not flow.

    The car handles well, holds the road confidently.

If everything is in order, reinstall the heat shield.

After repairing the steering rack, be sure to check the alignment at a car service or yourself.

Steering rack repair: do it yourself or at a service station?

Repairing the steering rack yourself in the garage is profitable, but not easy. It takes a tool, time and patience.

Specialized car services offer an alternative to repairing in the garage or buying a new part - a complete restoration of the rail.

The specialists themselves will remove the rail, select the necessary repair kit, and restore problematic items that are not on sale. If the work described in the article seems complicated, entrust the repair of the rail to professionals.