The engine does not pull. What to check? Why does the engine do not pull and what to do? Because of what the car does not pull

In general, the engine can stop pulling in a variety of reasons - this is one of the most common faults, which can have a huge variety of reasons, and below we will look at the most likely, we describe their symptoms and exploring this issue in detail. After all, one day it may occur with each of us that the engine will lose power, not accompanied by any more symptoms. Probably, the engine does not give any explicit signs of any disease, he seemed to be almost completely in order and does not publish any unusual noise and vibrations, but at the same time he simply does not pull as well as it usually does it. And the problem seems to be getting worse every day and worse, though, you probably didn't even notice when the motor first began to pull it worse.

If such a situation is familiar to you, let's consider the following reasons for reducing the drive of the motor:

Embossed fuel

First of all, you need to blame the fuel - remember where you were last refueling - perhaps this is a new gas station or the one with the fuel that you have not previously had a ride experience. It is possible that the fuel is simply turned out to be very poorly (it happens so much that you are still lucky if you just stop pulling the engine - after all, someone is probably the engine will stop starting until the owner will replace completely fuel in the tank).

If you refuel on the refueling, where usually, and nothing causes suspicion, go to local communities in social networks, the autoclub of your region / district or just an urban portal - perhaps the gas station was just a bad fuel delivement.

However, most often, with the loss of travelers, the incompatibility of the engine with such poor-quality fuels has other symptoms - for example, such as engine speed instability, difficulties with launching and some others depending on how much fuel turned out to be bad and from the car model.

But it is most likely to determine the poor quality of gasoline itself, twisting the candle from the engine (this will require a special candle wrench) - in general, candles can often be used as the primary diagnostic method of certain malfunctions in the engine combustion chamber, since they are most closely cooperating With this combustion chamber and at the same time are quick-in. If the fuel contains a large number of metal-based additives, then the contacts of the candle and the "skirts" of the central diode will have a reddish color (as if the red brick was covered with a candle).

Polluted air filter

You may also simply pollute your air filter, and in this case, the elimination of power loss will cost you, perhaps, cheaper than all other options - just replace the air filter - you can buy it yourself, so replace with your own hands.

The problem of the contaminated air filter is that the fuel-air mixture, which enters the combustion chamber of the cylinders of your engine, comes there without a sufficient amount of air, and therefore the fuel is not completely combustible, because for its combustion it is necessary enough oxygen. It turns out a situation similar to a person in a person - he seems to eat enough, and leads a healthy lifestyle, but at certain moments of life (during illness by this runny nose), the scored nasal passages are not allowed to breathe normally.

Polluted or old spark plugs

Spark plugs may well be contaminated or excessively worn out, and in this case, if the motor does not pull due to them, it is also a relatively inexpensive version of troubleshooting - Just clean the candles or replace them. However, it should be borne in mind that periodic pollution and wear of the ignition candles are an abnormal process, and the reason for this lies, most likely, somewhere deeper, or in the ignition candle.

Contaminated fuel filter

Fuel filter, as well as air, can cause engine power loss. And the physics of the process here is similar to the air filter - if in the case of the case the fuel did not completely burn due to a lack of air, then in the case of a contaminated fuel filter, on the contrary, the fuel is given insufficient quantity. In this case, simply.

Mechanical problems with the engine

If all the above methods have not saved, and the engine is also badly pulling the car, then it's time to entrust the work of professionals - to begin in a good car service and perform the diagnostics of the engine work - checking compression (compression degree in combustion chambers), for example, can say a lot about work Engine, including about approaching the limit of its resource and the upcoming expensive repair.

Failure in the fuel system

Such a reason for the drop in the engine's diverance, as a violation of the normal operation of the fuel supply system to cylinders, and here can also be a number of reasons that the motor is not gaining momentum, let's list the main:

• Faulty (contaminated) fuel pump due to, for example, poor-quality fuel or gasoline sucking from the bottom of the tank, where the majority of extraneous particles of dirt are ruined.
• Malfunction of the injector or oxygen sensor.
• Exactness of hoses or fuel supply tubes, where air is suused.

Catalyst or exhaust system clogged

The cause of the reduction of the engine's arbitrariness can also become a contaminated catalytic converter or exhaust system. In both cases, the replacement of the corresponding contaminated component will help. It should be borne in mind that the catalyst, as a rule, is very noticeable due to the content in it in certain amounts of noble metals.

We listed the main and most likely causes of possible engine power loss - it must be remembered that such reasons have an excellent set, and if you failed to install them yourself, it is necessary to go to the car service workshop to trust this work to professionals.

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With long-term operation of the car sooner or later, the time comes when the driver begins to notice that the machine "pulls" is worse and worse. If you say differently, the motor does not cope even with low loads. To overcome them, you have to unwind the crankshaft almost to maximum revolutions. Other signs appear: the sluggish acceleration from the place, the difficulty in the speed set during overtaking, etc. It may occur in the increased smoke of the exhaust, but there are no extraneous noises under the hood when operating the power plant - it works smoothly and calmly. So what happened why the car does not pull?

Common for all types of engine causes of power loss

If other signs of the deterioration of the engine, except for the loss of traction, it is necessary to conduct a comprehensive check, which consists in testing the force aggregate "Exception Method".

Embossed fuel

At about 50% of cases, the "culprit" loss of traction is fuel. Due to its low quality or inappropriate octane number (OC), the engine does not develop power.

It is possible to determine that in the tank of auto inappropriate fuel, it is possible for a number of signs:

1. The engine became worse to run.
2. Detonation appeared. This sign is most clearly manifested if the fuel with the required octane number was diluted with gasoline with a lower och.
3. When inspected from the cylinder block (BC), the ignition candles can be seen uncharacteristic for working parts of the black or reddish (brick) color, which indicates the presence of unnecessary impurities. The first option suggests that gasoline is not completely combined, the second confirms the presence of additives containing metal.
4. Inefficiently working candles. This can be defined with a sharp speed set when the engine does not have a reserve for further overclocking. Candles can be clogged due to poor quality fuel or simply developed their resource.

It is not difficult to solve the problem: poor-quality fuel should merge and fill the tank with a suitable flammable with the required PH. Clean the candles from Nagar, and if their service life came to the end, replace new, and everything is immediately complete from one manufacturer. When Nagar appears, it will have to be done again to do the diagnosis of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) and (or) the fuel system.

Polluted air and fuel filters

If the first of them is clogged and misses the air, the mixture will be excessively rich, that is, it will be a lot of fuel that will cease to burn completely. As a result, the engine craving will fall. When the fuel filter is contaminated, the result in terms of the operation of the power unit will be the same, only with the difference that the mixture will be very poor, since it will be little gasoline. Air filter contamination ahead of time can be caused by the operation of the machine in conditions of increased dust, and the fuel - low fuel quality.

Violation of gas distribution phases

The main parts of the gas distribution mechanism (TRM) are intake and exhaust valves. They are "obliged" to open and close only at the right moment so that the fuel mixture enters the cylinders in time, and the exhaust gases were removed. This process is called phase distribution. When it is violation, you will see that the engine power disappeared, which will start "troit", and sometimes badly start.

Causes of violations of gas distribution phases:

• wear, as well as improper installation, displacement of the chain or timing belt (most often it is a crossroad for one tooth (link));
• backlash or deformation of pulley on the crankshaft;
• wear of hydrocompensators, camshaft and (or) its bed;
• squeak or gap laying the head of the BC;
• malfunction of the camshaft position sensor (DPRV).

To restore the normal operation of the timing, it is necessary to set the position of the GRM and crankshaft trees. If the chain is worn, replace it. The same refers to camshaft with bed, hydrocomathers, laying and DPRV.

Resistance of the exhaust system

Many consider the only task of the exhaust system - the wasting of the loud sound and the removal of spent gases. However, in modern cars, a catalyst is installed, which reduces the level of emission of harmful substances. With a strong contamination of this element or its destruction, the gas pass is hampered. As a result, the motor works "as strangled."

In Russia, the problem is solved by elementary removal of the catalyst. However, it must be remembered that in some models auto, such an operation will require changes in electronics (programming).

Ignition Protecting Corners

We are talking about the moment of ignition of the combustible mixture. It is its definition of the ignition advance (CU). When it devias, in the direction of the increase, the mixture lights up early, towards the decrease - late. Both options lead to improper engine operation, incomplete combustion of the mixture, which can be accompanied by cotton in the muffler. On the injection engines VAZ 2110, 211, 212, 214, 215 (there is a classic with an injector, for example, VAZ 2107) AMA is automatically exhibited, on carburetor VAZ 2101-2106, 07, 08, 09 (the last two models can be injector) It must be installed manually.

Signs of violation of uaz:

• hindered engine start;
• an increase in fuel and oil consumption;
• drop in the pickup and power of the power unit;
• unstable work of DVS at idle;
• auto badly "responds" when pressed on the gas pedal.

Injector Engine Adjustment

It controls the electronics to everyone. First you need to make sure of its normal functioning and performance of the throttle sensor. At idle, it should be rooted by about 1% (if it is not so, adjust the mechanical drive), the normal voltage on its contacts is 0.45-0.55 V (the bottle network of the car should issue 13-14.3 V). With a sharp press on the gas pedal, the flap should open on 90 ", and the voltage on the sensor increases to 4.5 V. If it is not so, you need to adjust the damper drive and check the function of the sensor (DPDZ).

To do this:

• take the tester and put it in the voltage measurement position;
• disconnect the connector from the sensor - you will see three contacts - one goes to the ground, the other to the computer (which is where it is connected, define according to the scheme);
• run the motor and check the supply voltage - should be approximately 5 V;
• muffle the engine and switch the tester to the resistance measurement mode;
• when the damper is closed, between the mass and contact going on the ECU, the device must show 0.8-1.2 kΩ;
• with an open damper, resistance - 2.3-2.7 com.

If the data obtained does not correspond to the above parameters, the sensor must be replaced. If it did nothing, you should check the ECU.

Cutting on carburetor engines

The simplest and effective way is to use a conventional 12-volt light bulb.

Algorithm of actions:

1. Turn the crankshaft pulley before matching the labels (on the lid is a central risk) using a special cape. If it is not, turn on the 4th speed and push the machine until the labels coincide.
2. From the ignition interrupter (traver), disconnect the thin wire to the coil and connect the light bulb, the second contact of which is closed on the ground.
3. Loosen the nut fastening the distributor (usually turns turnkey to "13").
4. Turn the ignition, make sure that the lamp is on, and slowly turn the rubber around its axis until it goes out.
5. Now twist the distributor again until the light bulb flare up, and immediately tighten the fastening nut.

Faulty Ignition Candles

The planned replacement of these elements of the ignition system is carried out after 20-30 thousand km of mileage. If platinum candles, the resource increases to 100 thousand km. However, the situation when the candles (most often one of them) fail a few times - not uncommon.

To see and hear it can be for a number of signs:

• the engine starts with difficulty, especially in winter;
• work at idle unstable, the tachometer arrow jumps, periodic stop of the motor is possible;
• when working the power unit, an increased vibration is observed, for example, a gearbox lever shakes;
• the weak dynamics of acceleration - the car does not develop full power, "tupit";
• when you click on the accelerator, "failures" are noticeable;
• fuel consumption increased.

When one spark plug does not work, experienced drivers say that the engine "Troit", i.e., only 3 works out of 4 cylinders.

To find a faulty item, you need:

• wear dielectric rubber gloves;
• on the running motor, alternately disconnect the high-voltage wire from each candle;
• at the same time, the nature of the motor work should change, turn turns, but if this did not happen, it means that the cylinder does not work - the candle does not form a spark.

It is worth finding out the reason for the bad job of the part, it is possible that it is defective. If the next candles begin to refuse other candles, you will have to look for a reason elsewhere - CPG or fuel system.

Reduced compression

Often the causes of the engine power loss can be associated with banal wear of the power unit. Do not forget that a car aged about 100 thousand km of mileage begins to lose its power by 10-15%. If it seems to you that the loss is excessive, you need to check the compression. Its nominal value is indicated in the documentation for the machine. For testing, you will need an inexpensive device - a compressometer, which is a pressure gauge, fixed on a hollow tube or connected to a rubber hose, equipped with a tip. It is screwed into a block of cylinders instead of a candle. Next, disconnect the high-voltage wire from the ignition coil. Scroll through the knee starter and check the highest compressometer reading. The operation should be repeated for each cylinder.

The pressure is below the indicated in the instructions by more than 15%, indicates the wear of the rings, pistons, the walls of the cylinder block, valves. To solve the problem, it is possible to cultivate the BC under the repair size, replace the piston rings, to last (or replace) the valves.

Malfunctions automatic transmission

One of the tasks of the speed switch is the transmission of torque on the wheels. And if this process is broken, the engine is not gaining momentum. You press gas, and the acceleration is sluggish. The whole thing can be in the automatic transmission.

There are several reasons for that:

• poor-quality or not what the manufacturer recommends a transmission oil;
• clogged filters;
• scored hydroplary channels;
• faulty solenoids (in this case, the slip is observed "on hot");
• friction wear (maximum service life of 200-300 thousand km);
• problem with control unit.

Most of the above faults in the range of garage are difficult to eliminate. Therefore, you will have to use the services of a specialized level.

If not pulling the carburetor engine

The carburetor is a mechanical device for preparing a combustible mixture of fuel and air. If in this mechanism of the proportion of the components is broken, the engine does not pull.

You need to adjust the carburetor:

1. Gypsy. Check their calibration - the air supply part must have a larger diameter than the one on which fuel is entered.
2. Throttle. When you press the gas, it should be completely opened (if it is not so, adjust the drive).
3. Ignition system. Its contact option was considered above. To check the contactless system, turn on the ignition and look at the dashboard voltmeter - its arrow will suit to "12", and after a second it will rise above. If there is no voltmeter, put a well-serviceable switch and check the operation of the ignition system again.

Why is the power loss of an injection engine

The peculiarity of this motor is a fuel pump working as an electric motor. With its improper operation, the engine turnover will be unstable in all ranges. That is, the fuel will be applied unevenly, which will lead to a drop in the power of the power unit. A pump can work badly due to a contaminated filter - it must be checked and cleaned if necessary. Another reason for the loss of the power of the injection motor is the inefficient operation of the nozzles that are contaminated during operation. It is necessary to diagnose with the help of a special (even self-made) stand and clean the items or replace them with new ones. The following reason lies in the incorrect operation of electronics. It can be sensors or ECU itself. In the latter case, it is recommended to install a good unit or go to a hundred.

If you have any questions - leave them in the comments under the article. We or our visitors will gladly respond to them

Sufficient engine power is a prerequisite for normal operation of the car. But what to do when the diesel does not pull, although not "Multicolored" smoke? Yes, nothing - more likely to visit our service center. But first learn the possible theoretical reasons for such a phenomenon so as not to suspect mechanics in the "autobman" worthy of extra money.

What you need that diesel worked "in full"

Most often, even when there is no white, black or blue smoke, the motor does not develop full power. This happens sometimes due to a decrease in the patency of the coarse cleaning filter, in the tank of the machine, and reduce the patency of the fuel purification filter. Of course, most motorists with trepidation belong to their car and therefore traveling exactly as much as the manufacturer pointed out, hurry to change the filters in good faith.

That's just often automakers even suggest that water or dirt may be present in diesel fuel in the diesel fuel.

Therefore, the first and most importantly: you want the engine to pull "full" - change the fuel filter, at a minimum, after half of the manufacturer specified, run.

This is especially true when refueling somewhere far from large cities. However, you can call for us, and we will help not only with repair TNVD. Or other aggregates, but also upgrade the fuel system by making it less vulnerable to our fuel.

To make sure that the cause of the loss of the diesel power is poor-quality fuel, it is necessary to change the factory opaque fuel contact, connecting the TNLD with the fuel filter, on transparent driving school. After replacing the hose and fuel filter, be sure to pump the fuel system, removing excess air.

After fulfilling all this requirements, start the engine. If the fuel filter is scored, in the transparent hose you will see circulating air bubbles. By increasing the turnover of diesel, the number of bubbles will be visually significantly increased.

Air bubbles in the fuel system are the cause of interruptions in the operation of the motor (the engine "Troit"). In this case, there is a loss of power.

What to do when the motor "Troit" is only on high revs

If you have no complaints about the operation of the diesel engine on medium and idle turns, and when moving to high speed, the motor begins to "told", (which, naturally, does not allow it to work on the passport power), then it is worth thinking about:

• malfunction of the gas distribution mechanism of the engine (timing);
• malfunctions of the turbocharger;
• loss of the fuel filter (when it is literally clogged with mud).

To find a specific reason, again, start with a fine fuel filter - it is possible to replace it. Disconnect the fuel hose from the filter fitting and drop into a can with pure diesel fuel.

Now start the engine, and if it works on any turns like a clock, it means that the cause of the unstable work was just a contaminated fuel purification filter. So, it is time to replace it. If the fault has not passed, try again to clean the filter of rough purification from dirt. And re-pump the fuel system.

If, after an additional cleaning of filters, the engine is hard for turnover, above average, then check compression. It may decrease as a result of a violation of the functionality of the valve mechanism, including due to the malfunction of the hydrocomathers (when one of them was jammed due to dirty oil) and the cylinder-piston group.

In a word, the reasons for the motor operation is not fully powerful. And to take the right (and minimal at the price) solution, easier and cheaper to call in our car center, to forget once and forget that your diesel is "does not pull." So do not postpone tomorrow what you needed to do the day before yesterday - repair injectors or engine diagnostics.

On this topic you can write a passionate book. However, such a lot today is written: who is interested, it will definitely find and carefully read. We will try to identify the main reasons for such a disorder.

First, remember what the engine needs to work. It is necessary that the right bench-high mixture should be created on time. Therefore, if the short quality or does not come in proper quantity, then the good thrust from the motor does not have to wait. With a low octane number, the engine control system will translate the ignition advance angles to the latest (and still possible). With insufficient performance of the fuel pump or clogged fuel filter, it will be easy to miss. More on the mixing formation affects the quality of spraying fuel by nozzles. If they are clocked and do not form the correct fuel torch, then the proper composition of the mix is \u200b\u200balso not expected.

• For the proper formation of the mixture, another component is needed. And if the air filter is overly clogged, the engine control system will see the lack of air and limit the fuel supply than the power will certainly reduce the power. At the same time, the unaccounted air control system of the air control will also violate all calculations.

• Now about the initiators of burning - spark plugs and coils, providing them with high voltage pulses. If these components are at least in one of the cylinders are launch, then, unauthorized power.
• The optimal filling of the cylinders of the working mixture and timely removal of the exhaust gases depends on the correct phases of gas distribution. Therefore, the leakage of the belt or the timing chain even on one tooth will undoubtedly lead to a drop in power.

• To ensure the optimal combustion process, the mixture must be compressed. Therefore, the wear of cylinders, which reduces, the most negative impact affects the engines of the engine.
• The insufficiently warm engine produces less power not only because the viscous oil is stronger than the movement, but also because the injection system itself limits the parameters. And the motor can be underencing or temporarily, in a period of strong cold weather, or constantly - for example, with a faulty thermostat.
• The burnt mixture is necessary to delete in a timely manner, so the influence of the exhaust gas release system to the engine power is also significantly. If the resistance to the output of gases is large - no parameters from the engine do not expect. Improve resistance can either clogged or jammed pipes of the exhaust gas release system.

• What else? In addition to the engine, the car has other reasons to lose initial acne. For example, the buxing clutch is worn or incorrectly adjusted: you press the pedal, the motor responds, and the machine can crawl ... it can also joke: the most banal version is the captured parking brake.

If we missed some reasons, please add material with your considerations.

Modern engines have greater power, efficiency and less pollute the environment than those that were before. So, when the behavior of your engine is changing, it immediately becomes noticeable. When the machine "loses power", it says that something is faulty. It is necessary to immediately figure out, as it may be the cause of an emergency on the way.

For example: You have damaged brake pads, and you did not notice it. When driving, they can lead to the fire of the wheel, as the brake fluid is a flammable material. Or, the fuel filter, clogged with mud. This can lead to a breakdown of the fuel pump, which will start working with a high load. These are two examples of the main causes of the power loss of your car. But there may be other reasons how to identify them we will look at below:

Scanning codes of malfunctionit is necessary to produce if a warning light with an engine caught fire on the dashboard. If this is not, then go to the next step.

So, I caught fire "Check Engine", you need to make self-diagnostics or connect the scanner to the diagnostic connector. It should be noted that the car control system writes an error that appears again during the second engine start.

If the engine is working normally, the existing code can be removed from the memory itself. There are moments, the engine code works like something wrong, and the bulb does not light up. Just some faults cannot be detected by a computer. For example: if intake or exhaust valves work incorrectly, the computer will not determine this, since this fault is not associated with sensors.

Air filter check- polluted air filter reduces air supply to create fuel air mixture. This leads to a drop in engine power and increased fuel consumption. Also on the operation of the engine affects the quality of the air filter material. Do not chase for the lowest possible, because the possible repair of the engine can do it more expensive. Many stories about how not the original or cheap filter was put, he later broke, and the MAF sensor, rings on the pistons, were out of the chain. To check your air filter, open the hood, remove the housing filter element and evaluate the status. If necessary, replace it.

Fuel filterr— at a certain condition, the fuel filter can supply a smaller amount of fuel into the system, and this, in turn, is reflected in power. To check it, it is necessary to dismantle and drain the remains of the fuel. Throw the filter along the course of fuel in the system. Clean filter is blown easily. If it is blown hard or impossible to blow it, without regret, throw it away and remember that it can spoil your fuel pump.

Check the pressure in the fuel system and on the pressure regulatorthe fuel pump is located in the gas tank, if you are a happy vehicle owner with electronic injection, or on the engine, if you still have a car with a carburetor. Many machines have deterioration of work due to the fuel pump. Some cars have a special jack on the fuel line, to test the pressure. If you don't have it, you will have to attach some efforts to connect the pressure gauge. Pressure value in the highway you can find in your engine. The special regulator is installed in your highway, which relieves excessive pressure in the highway back to the benzobac. It may be incorrectly configured or led away. It can be checked with an air pump, gradually increasing pressure to the passport. If, without reaching it, the regulator opened, then replace it.

Check the ignition systemwhat a ignition timing. In what condition is a candle, high-voltage wires. More detailed inspection instructions are in to the engine. Remember the main thing, do not rely on your own experience or fragmentary knowledge. After missing, any nuance, you can spoil any element of the system. For example, ignition coils.

Flow sensor or air pressure These sensors help the electronic control unit of the engine to create how much air consumes the engine and how much it is necessary to supply fuel to form the fuel and air mixture. If the sensors are faulty, the computer may incorrectly calculate the amount of fuel, and you respectively eat. But why, then the light does not light up? The computer is programmed for a short circuit or a sensor break. If the sensor works incorrectly, the computer can only inform you that in the fuel system is not proper mixing and all. The source will have to look for himself. To do this, there are special guidelines for the stages of verification of components. What parameters should be at the sensor, look in the manual.

Checking the chain or beltcrankshaft and timing shaft must rotate synchronously for this and necessary these belts or chains. You will simply need to combine all the labels that you are applied on the belt and gears. There are times when the belt jumps on one tooth or stretches the chain. But with the proper level of service, you will be protected from this attack.

Checking the exhaust system on blockingmodern engines are very complex and automakers are trying to make them less damage to the environment. One of the components of this system is a catalyst installed in the exhaust system. In someone can be located directly near the engine, others, somewhere under the body. But one is invariably, it is. When using dirty fuel, which is sold in abundance at our gas stations, with time the catalyst is destroyed and blocks the normal exhaust of exhaust gases. You can check its performance or using remote thermometers (temperatures after the catalyst should be slightly higher) or by pressure before and after the catalyst. If you are deprived of such opportunities, it remains only to shoot it and look at the lumen. If he is scored, then it is better to replace him better, but conscious individuals, ready to part with a large amount of money, is practically no, it is simply knocked out.

Check compressionto do this, you will need a compressometer with a pressure gauge, the accuracy of which you trust. Over time, the rings on the pistons are stepping and compression in the cylinders falls, it affects the engine and on its launch. However, not only rings can be the cause of weak compression. If the valves of the mechanism The timing is not tightly adjacent to its landing places, then there will also be a bad result. To identify a source of bad compression, it is necessary after the first measurement of the compression add several grams of machine oil into the cylinder and measure again. If the compression rose, then the rings are to blame. If there are no valves. True, when measuring compression, your battery must be well charged, otherwise all efforts will go in vain. The compressometer is better screwed instead of the ignition candles, what to use the rubber seal. More convenient.

If all the above points passed tests, it remains only to check the transmission.

Checking transmission Sometimes the engine develops sufficient power, but it actually does not reach the wheels. If, while driving, you hear that the engine works hard, and at the same time you do not feel the vehicle's movement of the movement, then it is possible to slip the automatic transmission or blocking from the brake system. It is possible to determine this by the foot of the machine, when driving along the horizontal section of the road, transfer the gear selector to the "D" position and look at the behavior of the car. If you try to immediately reset the speed, then watch the brakes. If not, then you need to think about visiting a hundred and checking the machine. Previously, of course, you can, at least carry out a parking test.

To carry out the parking test you will need free space before you and the presence of a tachometer. It is necessary to warm the car engine, then tighten the hand brake. Press the brake pedal foot and translate the gear selector to the "D" position. Not releasing brake pedals, put pressure on the gas pedal and watch the tachometer test. If the turns around 2000 (for cars with a turbine about 2200), then everything is fine. If more / less than this number, you still have to go to a hundred check the machine. The test is done a few seconds and then necessary Engine work at idle. Free space in front of them is needed in case you have bad brakes.