Stiff steering wheel after changing the gur fluid. Power steering wheel turns tight: possible causes

24.07.2021

What to do, if buzzing power steering? This question is periodically asked by most car owners in whose cars this system is installed. What are the causes and consequences of a breakdown? And is it worth paying attention to at all?

Reasons why is the power steering buzzing, maybe several. Extraneous sounds indicate a clear malfunction in the control system. And the sooner you fix it, the more money you will save and not put yourself at risk of getting into an emergency with your car's faulty steering system.

Power steering device

Causes of the hum

An unpleasant hum from the power steering can occur under various circumstances. Let's dwell on the most basic reasons why the power steering buzzes when turning:

Low liquid level in the power steering system. You can check this visually by opening the hood and looking at the oil level in the power steering expansion tank. It should be between the MIN and MAX marks. If the level is below the minimum mark, then it is worth adding liquid. However, before doing this, it is imperative to find the cause of the leak. Especially if a little time has passed since the last refill. As a rule, the leak occurs at the clamps and at the joints. Especially if the hoses are already old. Always eliminate the cause of the leak before refilling..
The filled liquid does not match the one recommended by the manufacturer. This can cause not only hum, but also more serious malfunctions. Also buzz power steering in winter may be due to the fact that the liquid, although it meets the specification, is not intended for use in special temperature conditions (during severe frosts).
Dirty power steering fluid
Poor quality or contamination fluid in the system. If you have purchased “burned” oil, then there is a high probability that after some time it will lose its properties and the power steering will start to buzz. As a rule, along with the hum, you will feel that the steering wheel has become harder. In this case, be sure to check the quality of the oil. As in the previous case, open the hood and observe the condition of the fluid. If it is significantly blackened, and even more so, crumpled, it is necessary to replace it. Ideally, the color and consistency of the oil should not be much different from the new one. You can check the condition of the liquid "by eye". To do this, you need to draw a little liquid from the tank with a syringe and drop it onto a clean sheet of paper. Red, crimson burgundy, green or blue colors are allowed (depending on the original used). The liquid should not be dark - brown, gray, black. Also check the smell coming from the tank. It should not pull from there with burnt rubber or burnt oil. Remember that the fluid must be changed in accordance with the schedule approved in the manual of your car (as a rule, it is changed every 70-100 thousand kilometers or once every two years). Change the oil if necessary. You will find a list of the best hydraulic booster fluids in the appropriate one.
Air ingress into the system... This is a very dangerous phenomenon that is harmful to the power steering pump. Check for foam in the hydraulic expansion tank. If it does, then it is necessary or to perform a fluid change.
Steering rack malfunctions... It can also cause hum. It is worth conducting a visual inspection and diagnostics. The main signs of a rack malfunction are knocking on its body or on the side of one of the front wheels. The reason for this may be the failure of the gaskets and / or damage to the anthers of the steering rods, which may lead to leakage of the working fluid, the ingress of dust and dirt on the rail, and the occurrence of knocking. In any case, it is necessary to carry it out with the help of repair kits sold in car dealerships. Or ask for help at the service station.
Do not drive with a defective steering rack, as this could cause it to jam and cause an accident.
Weakening the power steering belt... It is quite easy to diagnose this. The procedure must be performed after the engine has been running for some time (the longer, the easier it is to diagnose). The point is that if the belt slips on the pulley, then it becomes hot. You can verify this by touching it with your hand. To tension, you need to know the effort with which the belt should be tensioned. If you do not have a manual and do not know the effort, go to the service for help. If the belt is excessively worn, it must be replaced.
Power steering pump malfunction... This is the most unpleasant and costly breakdown. Its main feature is an increase in the effort with which you need to turn the steering wheel. The reasons that the power steering pump is buzzing may be different parts of the pump that have failed - bearings, impeller, oil seals. You can familiarize yourself with the methods of diagnostics and repair of power steering in another.

Power steering is buzzing on a cold

Troubleshooting power steering and steering rack

There are several reasons why the power steering is buzzing on a cold one. The first is what goes air leaks through low pressure lines... To eliminate it, it is enough to put two clamps on the tube going from the reservoir to the power steering pump. In addition, it is worth replacing the ring on the suction pipe of the pump itself. After installing the clamps, we recommend that you use an oil-resistant sealant with which you need to lubricate the clamps and joints.

You can also conditionally highlight one more reason, the probability of which is low. Sometimes there are times when insufficient (low-quality) pumping of the power steering system... In this case, an air bubble remains at the bottom of the tank, which is removed with a syringe. Naturally. that its presence can cause the indicated hum.

Elimination methods can be replacing oil hoses and / or rails, replacing the power steering pump, installing additional clamps on all hoses in order to prevent air from leaking into the system. You can also perform the following procedures:

replacing the O-ring on the expansion tank feed spout;
installation of a new hose from the tank to the pump using an oil-resistant sealant;
perform the procedure for distilling air from the system (when performing the procedure, bubbles will appear on the surface of the liquid, which need to be given time to burst) by turning the steering wheel on an unused motor;

Another repair option is to replace the O-ring in the power steering pressure suction hose (and, if necessary, the hose itself and both clamps). The fact is that over time it loses its elasticity and becomes tough, that is, it loses its elasticity and tightness, and begins to let air that enters the system, causing knocking and foam in the tank. The way out is to replace this ring. Sometimes a problem can arise due to the fact that it is not easy to find a similar ring in a store. But if you find it, be sure to replace it and put it on the mount and lubricate with an oil-resistant sealant.

For some machines, there is a special power steering repair kit on sale. In case of problems with this unit, the first step is to buy a repair kit and change the rubber gaskets that are part of it. Moreover, it is advisable to buy original sets (especially important for expensive foreign cars).

Power steering pump bearing

You also need to watch out for absence of dirt in the system fluid... If it is present even in small quantities, over time this will lead to wear of the parts of the power steering pump, due to which it will begin to make unpleasant sounds and work worse, which will be expressed in an increase in effort when turning the steering wheel, as well as possible knocking. Therefore, when changing the fluid, be sure to look for dirt deposits on the bottom of the expansion tank. If they occur, you need to get rid of them. Check the filter in the reservoir (if applicable). It should be relatively clean and intact and fit snugly against the sides of the tank. In some cases, it is better to replace the entire filter tank than to try to clean them. Also, in this case, it is necessary to remove the rail, disassemble it, rinse it from dirt, and also replace the rubber-plastic parts. To do this, you need to use the mentioned repair kit.

An unpleasant sound may be emitted external bearing of the power steering pump... Its replacement is easy, without the need for complete disassembly of the assembly. However, it can be difficult to find a replacement at times.

There are special additives that are added to the power steering fluid. They eliminate the hum of the pump, relieve the efforts on the steering wheel, increase the precision of the power steering, reduce the vibration level of the hydraulic pump, and protect the system parts from wear when the oil level is low. However, motorists treat such additives differently. They really help some, they only harm others and bring the time to replace the power steering pump or carry out its replacement.

When choosing a liquid, pay attention to its temperature characteristics so that it works normally in severe frosts (if necessary). Insofar as high viscosity oil will create obstacles to the normal operation of the power steering system.

Buzzing power steering on hot

If the power steering hums on hot, then there may be several problems. Let's consider several typical situations and methods for their solution.

In the case when the engine starts to warm up, it is necessary to replace the pump or repair it using a repair kit.
When a knock appears on a warm engine at low speeds, and disappears at high speeds, this means that the power steering pump becomes unusable. There can be two ways out in this case - replacing the pump and pouring a thicker liquid into the power steering system.
If you have poured counterfeit liquid into the system, this can lead to the fact that when it heats up will lose its viscosity therefore, the pump will not be able to create the required pressure in the system. The way out is to replace the oil with the original one, having previously flushed the system (pumping with fresh fluid).
Steering rack malfunction... When heated, the fluid becomes less viscous and can seep through the seals if damaged.

Remember, it's best to use the original fluid. This is evidenced by the experience of many car owners. After all, the purchase of counterfeit oil can cause expensive repairs to the elements of the power steering system.

Power steering hums in extreme positions

Do not turn the front wheels for a long time

It should be borne in mind that when the wheels are turned all the way, the power steering pump operates at maximum load. Therefore, it may emit additional sounds, which are not a sign of its malfunction. Some automakers report this in their manuals. It is important to distinguish precisely the emergency noises associated with system malfunctions.

However, if you are sure that the sounds that have appeared are the result of a malfunction in the system, then it is necessary to carry out diagnostics. The main reasons that the power steering is buzzing in extreme positions are all the same reasons listed above. That is, it is necessary to check the operation of the pump, the liquid level in the expansion tank, the tension of the power steering belt, the purity of the liquid. The situation described below may also occur.

There is usually a valve box at the top of the gearbox, which is designed to control hydraulic flows. When the wheel is turned to the extreme position, the flow is shut off by the bypass valve, and the liquid flows in a “small circle”, that is, the pump works for itself and does not cool down. This is very harmful to him and is fraught with serious damage - for example, seizures on the cylinder or pump vanes. In winter, when the oil is more viscous, this is especially true. So do not keep the wheels turned out all the way for more than 5 seconds.

Power steering is buzzing after replacement

Sometimes the power steering starts humming after changing the oil. Unpleasant sounds can be caused by the pump if the system less thick oil was filled than it was before. The fact is that production increases between the inner surface of the stator ring and the rotor plates. Vibration of the plates also occurs due to the presence of unevenness of the stator surface.

It is also possible that a hum may occur after replacing the high-pressure hose of the power steering. Poor hose quality may be one of the reasons. Some service stations sin by the fact that instead of special hoses designed for high pressure and work in the power steering system, they install ordinary hydraulic hoses. This may cause airing the system and, accordingly, the occurrence of a hum. The rest of the reasons are completely similar to the cases listed above (knocking on a cold, hot one).

In order for the hydraulic booster to work normally and not knock, you must adhere to a few simple rules:

Monitor the oil level in the power steering system, top up and change it on time. In addition, check its condition. There is always a risk of buying a low-quality liquid, which becomes unusable after a short time of operation (check its color and smell).
Don't hold back for long(more than 5 seconds) wheels in end position(both left and right). This is harmful to the power steering pump, which works without cooling.
When parking the car always leave the front wheels level (straight ahead)... This will take the load off the power steering system the next time the engine is started. This advice is especially relevant in cold weather, when the oil thickens.
In case of occurrence (hum, knocking, increased efforts when turning the steering wheel) do not delay repair... You will not only eliminate the breakdown at a lower cost, but also save your car, you and your loved ones from possible accidents.
Constantly monitor the condition of the steering rack... This is especially true of the condition of the anthers and oil seals. This will not only extend its service life, but also save money on costly repairs.

Conclusion

Remember that at the slightest sign of malfunction of the steering of the machine, and in particular, of the power steering system, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and repair work as soon as possible. Otherwise, at the onset of a critical moment you risk losing control of the car when the steering fails (for example, the steering rack is jammed). Do not skimp on the condition of your car and the safety of yours and your loved ones.

A complex system that requires periodic attention from the owner. The liquid that is poured into the tank and is the basis for the functioning of the system has a certain service life, after which it loses its properties and turns into an incomprehensible mixture. In this article, you will find out what problems can arise after replacing the power steering fluid, why the steering wheel becomes tight or too light, as well as the reasons for such manifestations.

The steering wheel began to turn tighter

Increased steering effort can be observed for a number of reasons. Some of the main ones:

Worn or not tight enough belt, which does not create enough pressure to operate the pump.
Lack of fluid in the power steering reservoir.
Clogged fluid filter or air in the system.
Lack of idle speed.
Failure of elements of the steering system.

Most often, problems with the power steering appear when the car is running. This is how the oil enters the system, heats up and performs its functions. It is important to carry out any diagnostics of the power steering in a suspended form in order to reduce the load on the steering elements.

Important! When replacing, you must use only original fluid. Counterfeit oil can lead to malfunctions in the power steering and result in costly repairs.

Also, the steering wheel may require additional efforts only when cornering, and during the rest of the movement, fully perform its functions. In this case it is necessary to diagnose the steering rack.

The power steering got air

In this case, the steering wheel simply does not obey, it is impossible to drive the car. If you need to turn sharply, then you have to make great efforts.... Vibration also occurs when turning to one side. It is necessary to find the place where the system was depressurized and fix the problem, then remove the air or bleed the system.

Something clogged the valve

When the valve is clogged, the hydraulic booster will work with little effort, which means that the driver will be able to rotate the wheel only if he makes more effort. It is difficult, and you will need to apply force to turn left or right. Periodically, various dirt particles get into the oil or a sludge is formed from the use of additives.

Did you know?In 2013, a record was recorded for the mileage of a car that is in working order. It was installed on a Volvo 1900 S, which at that time had a mileage of 4,828,032 km (equivalent to 120 round-the-world trips).

All this can scratch the walls of the pump or damage the gaskets and tubing of the system, which reduces performance.

Not filled with original oil

It is impossible to turn the steering wheel without additional effort. An unsuitable fluid can cause great damage to all parts of the system, such as gaskets, pipes, and all surfaces of the pump. It is necessary to select and fill the liquid correctly.

It is recommended to replace the power steering fluid in a specialized car service. The craftsmen know the typical problems of the hydraulic booster, have the necessary equipment, tools and knowledge to fix problems or carry out planned procedures

Fluid leak

The steering wheel turns too hard or too easily. The unbalanced operation of the entire steering mechanism is noticeable. With an insufficient fluid level, the power steering will stop working at all... It is necessary to check the hoses, eliminate the leak, restore the tightness and bleed the system.

Power steering wear

Unbalanced steering. In this case, the steering wheel rotates with great effort. In addition, a very strong rumble is heard, which intensifies when cornering.

It is necessary to conduct a thorough revision of all units and, if necessary, repair or replace them.

The steering wheel has become lighter

After changing the oil in the power steering, the driver may notice that the steering wheel has become quite easy to control. If no mistakes were made during the maintenance work, then this is caused by a change in the type of fluid in the system.

For each car, the manufacturer has indicated the recommended oil with its own chemical composition, depending on the characteristics of the steering elements. The oil transmits force when exposed to pressure and lubricates rubbing parts... Accordingly, with insufficient density and viscosity of the oil, the required pressure in the system will not be created, and the steering wheel will turn easily.

Video: Why change the oil in the power steering, signs, consequences, test of fluids

However, there are a number of other reasons why the steering wheel may become easier to control. If the fluid was replaced with a similar one in compliance with all the rules, then it is necessary to diagnose the elements in order to find the reason for this behavior of the steering wheel.

Unusual controls

A working car steering system is the basis of safety while driving. Excessive steering lightness, even if not caused by a technical malfunction in the system, can lead to... The initial reason for this is the handling problem, as the car is sharper when maneuvering and there is significant sensitivity when driving even in a straight direction. In other words, the car is out of control of the driver. A slight bump, hole, or an obstacle that quickly arises for a car with an unnaturally light steering wheel can create an emergency. In addition, the wear of the hydraulic booster increases, which entails its quick replacement and related elements.

Did you know?In 2010, the Volkswagon Scirocco managed to travel 337 km from London to Manchester on coffee alone. The modified car processed coffee granules, converting them into carbon dioxide and hydrogen, while the car could reach speeds of up to 100 km / h with a "fuel" consumption of 56 cups of espresso.

Oil viscosity mismatch

Power steering fluid viscosity is one of the main indicators... There are several types of oils on the market that have different chemical compositions and are colored in different colors for convenience. Automakers in the technical documentation indicate the preferred oil for each car model. It is recommended to fill in the same fluid when replacing, since the working pressure created in the power steering directly depends on its consistency.

Every car owner has a desire to change one type of fluid for another, either in order to improve performance, or to save money. When not as thick oil enters the system as it was before, this can cause the hum of the power steering pump.

Power steering plays an important role in driving a car. Over time, some problems may arise, however, by observing the timing of replacing the fluid in the power steering, you will extend the service life of the power steering.

Today, not a single vehicle is dispensed with, the equipment of which was carried out with an orientation towards the modern level of driving comfort. The hydraulic mechanism facilitates the physical control of the machine while maintaining optimal feedback and compliance with safety requirements.

This is achieved by introducing an auxiliary mechanism into the wheels, the technical condition of which must be regularly monitored. If, after a certain time of using the machine with such equipment, deviations in the operation of the mechanism are noticed, then you should prepare for its repair. For example, if the power steering wheel is spinning tightly, there may be several options for getting out of the position. But first, you should consider the design of the mechanism and the principle of its operation.

How does the power steering work?

The power steering system is multi-component, but closed. In part, this device is due to the complexity of the repair of the structure. A typical mechanism includes a pump, a reservoir of liquid in the form of a reservoir, a pressure regulator, a power block and a spool. The pump is connected to the drive system of the machine engine, and the pressure regulator ensures that the flow of force is balanced against the spool. The operating differential in pressure readings depends on the control fluid supply.

It is this part of the functionality in most cases that leads to malfunctions due to which it is required to repair the power steering in the form of correcting the position of individual parts of the structure or by updating the oil. In turn, the hydraulic cylinder interacts with transmitting additional force. So that the final load required to bring the steering wheel into activity is balanced, the spool itself is installed on the column - in the future it will react to the torque when the driver is manipulating it.

What are the signs of a problem?

The feeling of heaviness with a wheel does not always appear suddenly and suddenly. This can be a long process during which warning signs may appear. In particular, initial diagnostics will help detect the problem by the formation of leaks, noise and excessive vibrations. Over time, a tight steering wheel will be added to this list, if the same leak is not stopped, and the fluid supply is replenished. Of course, the above signs may indicate the appearance of other problems, and not only with the hydraulic booster. Therefore, general diagnostics in this case will not be superfluous. It will also allow you to more accurately determine the possible reason for the weighting of the steering wheel.

The main reasons for hard steering

There are many factors that can lead to difficulty in steering due to the power steering. Each of them assumes its own approach to repair. One of the most common reasons is the presence of air in the niches of the hydraulic booster. Its presence not only neutralizes the main function of the mechanism, but also has the opposite effect, making the steering wheel movements heavier.

Another common reason is the aforementioned emptying of the expansion tank with liquid. If it was not possible to determine the reason why the steering wheel with the hydraulic booster is spinning tightly, then it makes sense to turn to the technical state of the individual components of the system. For example, wear of parts, especially the drive belt, could indirectly cause a decrease in hydraulic function. In this case, a complete revision of the mechanism and, possibly, its replacement cannot be avoided. Do not exclude the possibility of a malfunction in the steering wheel itself. For example, a rack in the part of a bundle with a gearbox can cause even more trouble in terms of repair.

How to disassemble a tight steering wheel?

To ascertain the reasons why the steering wheel action could become heavier, the mechanism should be disassembled. The event begins with the disconnection of the pipelines that lead to the expansion tank and the steering system. At this point, you can drain the liquid. Next, the drive belt is removed from the pump - again, if it is in an unusable condition, then you will have to put on a new belt.

Here, three blocks for fixing a pulley suitable for the pump unit are unscrewed. But depending on the type of fastening system, there may be more. After that, access to the fixing elements of the pump itself can be opened. As you can see, the power steering can be repaired already at this stage by changing the fluid, updating the hoses and the drive belt. But that may not be enough. Special attention should be paid to the filtering system. Even if it regularly performs its function, a violation at the cleaning stage is possible, which cannot be determined in garage conditions. Therefore, if there are no other obvious reasons for the problem, it makes sense to check the filters in a professional workshop.

Getting rid of excess air

If the reason lies in the presence of excess air in the system, then in a sense we can talk about luck. True, here too, everything is ambiguous. Most often, this problem is solved by several turns of the steering wheel, brought to a stop. Moreover, this action is performed in both directions. As practice shows, this allows you to push out excess air from the hydraulic communications. But if after this action the steering wheel turns hard, then the tank is more likely to be air-conditioned. This means that the system is working with a liquid in which bubbles are present. This factor also determines the lack of ease of handling the steering wheel. A complete fluid renewal in the expansion tank will help eliminate this problem.

Fluid change

For this, it is not necessary to completely disassemble the mechanism. First of all, the two pipes leading to the expansion tank should be freed from the clamps. Also, if necessary, additional fasteners and belt communications are removed, due to which access to the tank is difficult.

Direct fluid replacement can be performed without completely dismantling the tank. The spent mixture is simply pumped out, after which it remains to pour in new auto chemistry. However, if the steering wheel with the hydraulic booster, which has not been tested for a long time, is spinning tightly, then it is advisable to dismantle the reservoir for subsequent diagnostics. It should be checked for leaks, then rinsed thoroughly and rinsed with clean water. The dried reservoir is installed in its place, filled with new working fluid and fixed with fasteners.

Which liquid should you prefer?

The question of choosing a fluid for a power steering also imposes a great deal of responsibility. It is desirable to give preference to synthetic hydraulic mixtures made from high quality components. Regular engine oil is not good for this. The features of specialized formulations include a sufficient degree of fluidity, viscosity and the ability to work at extreme temperatures.

Often, problems of this kind are encountered precisely in winter, when the flooded liquid simply cannot cope with its tasks due to freezing. Therefore, the question of which oil should be poured into the power steering should be decided only in favor of special synthetic or semi-synthetic mixtures, which usually have a dark green tint. If we talk about manufacturers, then high-quality auto chemicals of this type are produced by the companies Motul, Castrol, Pentosin, Liqui Moly, etc. The cost of the liquid is about 800-1000 rubles, but even a small canister will last for a long time, so you should not save on this resource.

How to replace a heavy steering wheel?

Dismantling of the system begins with the aforementioned disconnection of all pipelines, branch pipes and fasteners. Also, without fail, the oil poured into the expansion tank is drained or pumped out. Installation of a new system is carried out in reverse order. If we are talking about a complete renovation of the steering complex, then in this case it is necessary to dismantle the rack itself. This should be done in conditions where there is an assembly straightening stand. The installation starts with integrating the steering wheel and then integrating the hydraulic components one by one. In the last turn, the working fluid is poured, and the elements of communication support are supplied.

Conclusion

By itself, the steering wheel control system is quite complex and often causes problems precisely with identifying the reasons for its incorrect operation. In the event that the steering wheel with the power steering of a car is spinning tightly, in which it is quite possible that the problem will be precisely in insufficiently inflated tires.

In this situation, the difficulty is associated with the mechanics of the interaction of rubber with the coating, the effect of which is transmitted even to serviceable hydraulics. Insufficient tension on the drive belt can also affect the function of the booster. That is, before proceeding with the repair work, the user must make a complete inspection of the car for the presence of factors that may affect the operation of the steering rack.

13 Aug 2016

Power steering (GUR) - a component part of the car, the purpose of which is to optimize vehicle handling and operation. Comfort, and most importantly, the safety of the driving process depends on the performance of the power steering.

A malfunction of the power steering can be triggered by the following malfunctions:

violation of the tightness of the steering system,
damage to hoses,
natural wear and tear of parts.

All of the above facts lead to the need for qualified repair.

Troubleshooting Power Steering

Possible reasons why the power steering does not work, and how to fix them, we will consider below.

Backward jolts on the steering wheel (kickback)

A possible cause is a poor tension on the pump drive belt, or this belt is worn. Eliminating such a malfunction will not take a significant amount of time and money, because it is necessary to replace the belt or adjust its tension.

The steering wheel turns with effort

If the steering wheel with the power steering is spinning tightly, then there may be several reasons for such a malfunction:

weak tension of the pump drive belt (adjust the tension),
low (critical) fluid level in the power steering reservoir (add fluid),
clogging of the power steering tank filter (replace the filter),
low working pressure of the pump on the hydraulic booster (replace or repair the pump),
air in the power steering (remove accumulated air and check the tightness).

The fluid in the power steering must be topped up with the one that was originally filled. To do this, it is better to store the container in which the liquid was sold.

It takes effort to spin the wheel

The reason for such a malfunction of the power steering is one - a malfunction of the pump. Elimination - check and repair the pump, replace its oil seals.

The steering wheel in the middle position turns with great effort

pump malfunction, which can be eliminated by replacing a part or repairing it,
mechanical failure - it is recommended to diagnose the steering system.

Vibration

Possible causes of the malfunction:

mechanical damage, dangerous condition of tires (identify defective tires, repair them or replace them with new ones),
air ingress into the hydraulic system (remove air, having previously established the cause of its ingress).

Noise during operation

Reasons for the malfunction:

low power steering fluid level in the reservoir (eliminate the leak, check the tightness and add fluid),
damage (wear) of high and low pressure hoses (in this case, check hoses and replace those that are out of order),
accumulation of liquid through the safety valve, accompanied by a whistling sound at the extreme position of the steering wheel (check the operation of the pump, in case of refusal to replace it).

Fuzzy steering

violation of the geometry of the steering gear (it is necessary to check the condition of the tires),
wear of steering parts (visually check the condition of parts and assemblies, eliminate their malfunctions),
fluid leaks (check tightness).

As you can see from the listed malfunctions, most often the power steering does not work well due to the leakage of fluid, which serves as a lubricant. At the same time, the car begins to "hum" intensely, and when the steering wheel is turned, this hum intensifies, therefore, when the liquid level drops, it is necessary to urgently look for a leak, otherwise the pump will fail, and this part is a very expensive pleasure.

The power steering, as mentioned above, affects the chassis of the car, so its proper operation is the key to a successful trip. In case of suspicion of incorrect operation of the power steering, it is recommended to stop the movement and continue it after repairing the power steering.

06.07.2013, 10:04

Tubers, I changed the muck in the power steering, and it seems that it has become harder to turn the steering wheel: search:
how so? does it happen at all? : search:

Eustathius

06.07.2013, 10:26

what kind of slurry did you fill in?

06.07.2013, 10:37

PSF 2, code 08206-9002, 1 l

Added after 2 minutes 48 seconds
everything should be the other way around after replacement, but it only got worse (((

06.07.2013, 10:47

: russian: the campaign is correctly said, do not go there. I also wanted to, but now I will think more: sad:

06.07.2013, 10:49

06.07.2013, 10:54

yes, I agree with you ... I'll try to expel the air again, and then we'll see.
write how you pumped after replacement?

06.07.2013, 11:04

I had exactly the same bullshit after my shift. Only recently I solved the problem: I changed the drive belt. Although the old one was not very stretched, but after replacing I immediately felt that the steering wheel turns easier.

But how to tie a replacement slurry and a belt - I do not know. But the fact remains ...

06.07.2013, 11:06

everything is as written here:

Added after 52 seconds
changed the drive belt
I will also change this week, I have already ordered it, maybe it will help ...

06.07.2013, 11:07

But how to tie a replacement slurry and a belt - I do not know. But the fact remains ...
well, if the belt is worn out, it can slip corny and it will not be noticeable. so everything is understandable

06.07.2013, 11:08

After replacing the belt, I will write about the solution to the problem.

06.07.2013, 11:08

everything is as written here:
1. With the steering wheel in the middle position, start the engine for 10-15 s.
2. Stop the engine without turning the steering wheel.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side.
4. Unscrew the air release valve on the steering gear.
5. Without wrapping the valve, turn the steering wheel all the way to the other side. In this case, air should come out of the valve, and then liquid.
6. Without touching the steering wheel, screw on the air release valve.
7. Having added oil to the tank, start the engine and turn the steering wheel in both directions until it stops, without holding it in the extreme positions. After the appearance of air bubbles in the reservoir, stop the engine.

8. Add liquid to the level near the upper mark on the dipstick on the cap of the non-separable tank ...

9. ... or up to the level of the mesh in the collapsible cistern.

06.07.2013, 11:22

well, if the belt is worn out, it can slip corny and it will not be noticeable. so everything is understandable

No, no, I mean: why did it turn tighter after changing the slurry? After all, before its replacement, everything was normal on the same stretched belt.

06.07.2013, 12:50

did you flush the system ?? mesh?

06.07.2013, 16:35

No, no, I mean: why did it turn tighter after changing the slurry? After all, before its replacement, everything was normal on the same stretched belt.
as a rule, the operator)) technology is always something that does not finish, this is a feature of cheloveche.natury.

08.07.2013, 08:46

guys, and perhaps from the heating of the motor, compressor or xs why the steering wheel becomes tight in place? in the morning on a cold wheel it is easy to turn on the spot.

08.07.2013, 10:57

STYPMAH, Check your tank, it has a filter at the bottom, it gets clogged with all kinds of dirt ... There are some assholes who tear it up (it's not clear why). You can replace the tank with a new one, it is not expensive, the original costs 800 rubles.

08.07.2013, 11:48

Drobovik, got it. I will watch. It all started after the bulkhead of the current rail.

08.07.2013, 11:54

MoscowMitino, it's easy to check - get up in a warm car, wait a couple of minutes and turn the steering wheel - it will turn easily. Then raise the revs to 3-4 thousand for 5-10 seconds, and once again try to turn the steering wheel at idle, it will be hard to spin. If you stand still for a couple of minutes, it will spin again.

If everything is so, then the valve, try to pick up the spring and replace it with a tighter one, or sharpen the valve if there are seizures on it.

08.07.2013, 12:22

it's easy to check - get up in a warm car, wait a couple of minutes and turn the steering wheel - it will turn easily. Then raise the revs to 3-4 thousand for 5-10 seconds, and once again try to turn the steering wheel at idle, it will be hard to spin. If you stand still for a couple of minutes, it will spin again.

08.07.2013, 13:02

Same problem as MoscowMitino

Added after 3 minutes 37 seconds

On a warm car, the steering wheel turns tight !!! even if you stand for a couple or more minutes. it is treated only by cooling the car ... i.e. turn off the engine for 30 minutes or more ... then, in the process of driving around the city, the same problem again, the steering wheel starts to spin tightly ... if the air temperature is 26 degrees or less, then everything is buzzing with the rail ... by the way, this appeared after repairing the rack after a leak ...
P.S. can a power steering pump repair kit and repair?

The repair kit did not help me (and it is not, you need to order all the rubber bands separately), replaced all the rubber bands, except for the bearing and the largest rubber band next to it. I understand correctly that if you drive at night, when the air temperature is, for example, 15 degrees, then there will be no problems with the steering wheel?

After the bulkhead of the pump, the power steering stopped working on my warmed-up car. Replaced the upper spring in the pump with a similar one, only oak. It became noticeably better, but the problem did not dare (I have not sharpened my valve yet and have not yet found a suitable lower spring). The upper spring was taken in an auto49, it is a couple of mm longer and much tighter.

Now, after high revs, the power steering does not work well, but it does not stick in a couple of minutes. Hence the assumption that this valve is sticking ... Yes .. and also, when you unscrew the plug from the bottom with a hexagon, behind which the valve is with a spring, then if you press on the valve and release it, it should fly into your hand by itself ... I have this not happening

08.07.2013, 13:02

I forgot to add that the steering wheel becomes tight, even if the car just stays turned on for 30 minutes ... and then go .... on the road, in traffic jams, I also noticed such a thing: I stopped, I stood in a traffic jam on the drive for a minute or two. ..then I slightly turn the steering wheel (it seems to the right) and I hear some kind of click ... I twist slightly to the right and left the click does not repeat anymore ... it repeats after a while ... maybe 5 minutes, maybe 7 ... etc....

08.07.2013, 13:04

trooman, Try to find the pump on disassembly. Where they give a guarantee for verification. You put it and if it doesn't work, you return it back and say that it doesn't work.

On disassembly, the pump is in the region of 6 thousand.

Added after 57 seconds
I forgot to add that the steering wheel becomes tight, even if the car just stays turned on for 30 minutes ... and then go .... on the road, in traffic jams, I also noticed such a thing: I stopped, I stood in a traffic jam on the drive for a minute or two. ..then I slightly turn the steering wheel (it seems to the right) and I hear some kind of click ... I twist slightly to the right and left the click does not repeat anymore ... it repeats after a while ... maybe 5 minutes, maybe 7 ... etc....

Clicking is most likely a sticking valve.

08.07.2013, 13:05

08.07.2013, 13:27

91370-SV4-000
91349-PNC-J01
91349-PNC-003
91348-P2A-003
91346-PLA-003
91345-RJL-003
91345-PAA-A01
91344-PNC-003
91343-PNC-003
91249-PNC-003
91048-P2A-003 - bearing

This is what I ordered.
You can attach a diagram and write which rubber band under which number. This is already on the forum, people wrote.

First, if I were you, I would try the option with disassembling and testing the pump.

08.07.2013, 13:31

ok, thanks again!

Added after 11 minutes 24 seconds
I understand correctly that if you drive at night, when the air temperature is, for example, 15 degrees, then there will be no problems with the steering wheel?
25 degrees and below. those. at night everything is buzzing :)

08.07.2013, 14:03

08.07.2013, 15:19

so) is more interesting. And I thought that it was my own fault, because the slurry left the rail and my pump howled, but I almost immediately refilled the step-up (which was at hand). After the bulkhead, replacing the original with a slurry, and suddenly such a garbage with a pump.

Tell me, can you try to get to the valve without removing the pump?

Hexagon for 10, in 5 seconds unscrews without removing anything.

Added after 11 minutes 58 seconds
25 degrees and below. those. at night everything is buzzing :)

This is very strange, I have not seen anything like this. I do not have that. The only assumption is that the metal expands when heated and when a certain temperature is reached, the valve expands (it seems to be metal, and the walls of the case are aluminum ... so it seems to me). Either something happens to the liquid when heated (it becomes more liquid, or vice versa - thick).

08.07.2013, 15:49

Drobovik, Thanks for the clarification) I'll try to see

08.07.2013, 17:14

Because of the belt, it can also be if it slips (but in this case, it usually whistles).
The belt whistles in the morning, especially in wet weather and not for long.
When turning the steering wheel, nothing whistles.

Added after 2 minutes 56 seconds
And there is a part code for this tank, I will be grateful.

08.07.2013, 17:31

STYPMAH, Here is the tank number - 53701-SDA-A01
If the belt whistles, then something is wrong with it. Try to splash water on it when the whistle starts. If it stops immediately, then I advise you to replace it. Is the belt visually worn?

08.07.2013, 17:59

Here is the tank number - 53701-SDA-A01
Senkyu: friends:
Is the belt visually worn?
Like an old whore: russian:
I will change this week, I wait for s / h

10.07.2013, 08:39

Like an old whore
lol

10.07.2013, 09:55

And at the expense of the belt. they changed the belt for me, for the first 2-3 days it whistled ... they explained to me that the working liquid got on it (like oil or liquid gur), and it will disappear as soon as the liquid evaporates ... well, that is what happened, after 2 of the day the whistle passed. schaz everything in this respect is good. can get confused by replacing the belt? or money down the drain?

What kind of crooked masters? How could the slurry get on him if they only changed the belt?)) Maybe they just pulled it over?
Why change the new belt again?) This one will work again.

10.07.2013, 11:10

yes, there is generally a funny story !!!))) they made me an engine, before me the owner did it from the left-hand masters, the car stood in service for 2-3 months, while the spare parts went ... then it turned out, they put a knee on the 2.0 chord, and I have 2.4))) well, 2 times the motor was disassembled and then, in fact, it was doused with something))) in general, something like this: search :: smile3:

Added after 1 minute 32 seconds
although I must say that the car was driving with a knee of 2.0 chord, not troilus, the engine worked smoothly, but not a pearl)))

10.07.2013, 11:18

trooman, in general, of course, the story with the knee is not very funny and it turned out. handsome men just

02.08.2013, 13:32

4. Unscrew the air release valve on the steering gear.
Guys, where exactly is this valve located?

02.08.2013, 15:04

I join Kolyan's question!)

02.08.2013, 20:44

I noticed one peculiarity here, when you stand still at idle, you gently turn the steering wheel by 5-10 degrees, while the rpm sags by 100-150, and when the rpm stabilizes, a push into the steering wheel goes in the opposite direction, what is it?

02.08.2013, 20:49

Frost174, this is normal when the hydraulics starts to put pressure on the steering gear under load, the pressure is compensated by the alternator belt and the speed rises so that the steering wheel can turn the wheels

04.08.2013, 11:37

05.08.2013, 07:26

06.10.2013, 17:37

Tell me the number of this belt. I can't find it on the existential catalog

07.10.2013, 17:56

Tell me about finding the valve, I climbed the whole mechanism, I did not see anything similar to the valve.
under the hood on the left
Tell me the number of this belt. I can't find it on the existential catalog
38920-RBB-E03

07.10.2013, 19:18

The fact that the revs are falling, I agree that this is the norm. But why after a second there is a push into the steering wheel in the opposite direction?
rpm should not fall at least - for this, there is a sensor on the high pressure hose.
and pushing in the opposite direction is also abnormal

22.10.2013, 09:49

The level is normal.
I ask for help: help:

22.10.2013, 10:13

STYPMAH, is everything all right with you with the rail? Doesn't flow, does the steering wheel bite?

22.10.2013, 10:29

Yoklmn ... winter has come, it got colder to -5 and now the steering wheel on a cold finally can become tight like g @ ndon in Soviet times: pioneer:
Who will tell you where to drip? maybe the Chinese Lichen's slurry? Although I took it from a trusted and well-known store: russian_roulette:
The level is normal.
I ask for help: help:

To begin with, make a complete replacement of the slurry, since it is inexpensive .... I met a couple of similar cases here on the forum and after a banal replacement everything went away!
As they say - try is not torture: smile3:

22.10.2013, 10:48

Is everything all right with your rail?
mmm, everything is ok.
steering wheel does not bite?
is it like this?
First, make a complete slurry change.
I'll try! maybe it will help.

22.10.2013, 12:00

mmm, everything is ok.

Is it like this?

This is when you turn the steering wheel, and it turns in jerks, either normally in one direction, and tight in the other, or pulls the car to one side with the steering wheel.
Something like that

22.10.2013, 13:08

This is when you turn the steering wheel, and it turns in jerks, either normally in one direction, and tight in the other, or pulls the car to one side with the steering wheel.
Something like that
It is expensive to pull the car because of the curves, and the steering wheel turns easier after driving than in the morning.
And how to check the rail, if visually everything is ok with it and the smudges are not visible?

22.10.2013, 17:08

I remembered that I bought the slurry for the gidrach in the service, maybe they sold the g @ noO ..... I will change the slurry I will unsubscribe what and how.

Vyacheslav33

27.10.2013, 15:04

Yesterday I changed the fluid in the gur by 75,000 km and the steering wheel became more noticeable easier to spin here is the original Honda fluid

30.10.2013, 12:26

also came cold there was a problem the steering wheel began to blunt. That is, the gur periodically works, then it does not work at low speeds once in a while it works! help or pump to find or repair!

30.10.2013, 12:37

danil1989, there is a possibility that the problem is in the rail. Replacing the pump and high pressure hose did not help me.

30.10.2013, 12:55

and where does the rake? the pump works then no

30.10.2013, 13:08

I would also like to understand this. Even on a new pump, it is also chopped off at idle. Sometimes it's okay.

05.11.2013, 12:03

Yes, in kind, today on the serves they said that really, because of the rail, such a garbage can happen), like there are valves in the rails and they are clogged there and such a drizzle begins!

Added after 1 minute 59 seconds
So I think what to do or climb into the river or change the pump or change the hose not native too! In short, the Honda kurnula stands idle after 4 days, you have to go to the long-distance vehicle, but the Honda let me down (

05.11.2013, 12:15

danil1989, The hose is not a native one for sure. He can kill the pump. My last option is the rake. But I will not do it already, because after the repair, this badyaga started. right now I will dig for a new mahana.

05.11.2013, 13:44

MoscowMitino, I replaced the rail with a restored one, it got better, but the problem did not dare. The pump is coming soon. I will change - I will tell you.

05.11.2013, 14:11

05.11.2013, 15:06

Drobovik, I hope it helps. Is the pump new or contracted?
Cardone is American from ebay, they rebuild pumps and sell like new.

05.11.2013, 18:07

and which site is this carbon to order?

06.11.2013, 12:59

danil1989, on ebay dot com, search for keywords "
Cardone Industries 21-5419 "

I played 2.4 EXE on a 2006 chord

07.11.2013, 11:01

07.11.2013, 14:23

Cardone Industries 21-5419 is this original? and how to find it on the ebee?

Cardone has never been an original, it's an aftermarket already.
Do not slow down, open google and search:

COUNTER! (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ebay%20+%20Cardone%20Industries%2021-5419)

07.11.2013, 18:19

07.11.2013, 23:12

But what if we can put a pump from akkura and order from ebey there from 1,500 to 7000? Who has no experience?

Pyatnezzo doesn't seem to have arrived yet: pleasantry:

10.11.2013, 11:25

and whoever put Cardone or some other analogs? here on ehzist the analogue for only 5000 of the firm MSG gives out! how is he not vkurse?
http://www.exist.ru/price.aspx?pid=3170A2A6&sr=29&cn=Honda_Accord_%D1%81%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%B0%D0%BD_VII _2.0

10.11.2013, 16:40

help an analogue to choose a good ekzist gives out the current original! gur pump needed wines BODY JHMCL76408C203896 Honda Accord 2007 2.0l 155hp

12.11.2013, 16:41

what is the original or analogue?

30.09.2014, 14:12

8. Add liquid to the level near the upper mark on the dipstick on the cap of the non-separable tank ...

9. ... or up to the level of the mesh in the collapsible cistern.

Because of the belt, it can also be if it slips (but in this case, it usually whistles).

MoscowMitino, you most likely have a problem with the pump, namely, with the valve located at the bottom of the pump. It gets stuck in a chute that it walks up and down.

04.10.2014, 20:28

8. Add liquid to the level near the upper mark on the dipstick on the cap of the non-separable tank ...

9. ... or up to the level of the mesh in the collapsible cistern.
Tell me, I'm interested in item number 4. How does this AIR DISCHARGE VALVE look like, otherwise after the bulkhead of the rack, the steering wheel is not my own. I’ve filled in my own, but not according to the above technology, or rather, not everything is as indicated. I did not hang the wheels and did not open the air release valve, but everything else is like that.

Added after 7 minutes 11 seconds

What kind of valve, tell me or is the photo better how it will look. I would be grateful if there are any rules, adhering to which, it is worth turning this valve. I mean the procedure. Thanks in advance.

04.10.2014, 21:32

The slurry in the power steering is changed by the displacement method without any dvigla startups. It is best to do it together. One constantly turns the steering wheel, and the second adds fresh slurry and monitors the flowing old one. Wait until fresh transparent flows. To replace this, you need 2 liters of slurry. I was convinced of this from personal experience. If someone says that a liter is enough, then, as they say, the flag is in their hands. But in an amicable way, rinse more!

The wheels naturally need to be hung, this greatly speeds up the process. It takes 15 minutes for the entire replacement!
So no valves need to be turned, which I hear about for the first time. Well, there is no air in the system: smile3:

04.10.2014, 23:29

Oh, how ... Vetal, and where am I pouring a new one? If it is in the tank, then how will it be pumped into the system without starting the engine?
If only pouring directly into the SHVD)))

Everything is trite and simple:

04.10.2014, 23:59

Everything is trite and simple:

1) raise the front of the machine on both sides so that the front wheels do not touch the ground.

2) you remove the washer reservoir from the grooves and stupidly take it to the side, so as not to interfere.

3) You open the power steering reservoir and with a syringe pump 20 cubes out of the reservoir to the maximum.

4) Remove the power steering reservoir from the grooves where it is held.

5) You put rags under the tank in advance, you can have more so that the slurry does not spill on the body

6) Use ordinary pliers to spread the clamps to the sides and remove both hoses from the tank. ATAS! slurry may flow out of the lower nozzle if you lower the hose lower. At this point, it is better to try to drain from the hose into some kind of small jar. There, 50 grams will flow out.

7) In an amicable way, you rinse the power steering tank well with the FAIRY, do not forget that there is a NET in the tank 3 centimeters from the bottom! for filtration from dirt and chips.

8) Put on the washed and DRY tank back to the entrance !!! nipple using the same pliers. There is nothing complicated there. The inlet pipe, which goes directly to the power steering pump, is small in length and quite flexible, so do not piss, it will not break.

9) This is an important point: you put the incoming pipe coming from the bottom in some kind of vessel. I adapted a 400 gram plastic oil box.: Rofl:

10) You pour out a new bottle EXCLUSIVELY ORIGINAL !!! honda slurry to the very top of the tank!

10) You shout to your partner to start turning the steering wheel energetically from lock to lock!

11) You look at the level of the slurry in the tank and refill, NOT LETTING empty the tank.

12) watch out for the vessel with the old slurry, so that it does not climb over the top.

13) Thus, you need to pour in 6! bottles of 0.356mg. original slurry.

14) At the end, put on the branch pipe and put the tank in place

IMPORTANT: do not pour the whole last bottle and leave the essence in the tank above the maximum by half a centimeter. After starting the auto, the level will be lower.

That's the whole procedure. By the way, apart from lifting the front end - the process of replacing the slurry itself takes 10-15 minutes. Everything is pretty easy and fast.

This is simple physics, we are replacing the old slurry with a new one!

And answering your question - LIQUID will go into the system by itself when the steering wheel is rotated from lock to lock! WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE !!

Added after 3 minutes 10 seconds
And MORE - after such a change, my boyfriends stopped jumping on the sides when accelerating and slipping to the floor! It got better, definitely!

So so so)))...
I don’t argue about physics)
I am most interested in how the slurry when the pump is not working (i.e. the pulley does not spin, so there is no pressure) will pass through this very pump ???) It's purely just sports interest) Or can the slurry go through an idle pump ??? But again ... she needs to pump it up somehow, the pump is higher than the tank ... Physics, thrust or mysticism))) ...
By the way, if I understood everything correctly from the replacement algorithm, it will still be necessary to temporarily plug the flange on the tank (to which, after replacement, a return pipe will be connected, through which we control the displacement of the old slurry to the new one) so that new slurry does not flow out of it))) ...

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