What wire is needed to light a car. Which car cigarette lighter wires are best to choose for use in winter and why?

Beginners who love woodworking will find our instructions useful, with a consistently described process for making carpentry clamps of several varieties. In it we will tell you what materials should be used for this and how to make a device that exactly suits your own needs.

Materials for body, stop and jaws

In carpentry, clamps are used to securely and carefully hold together several parts while they are being mechanically connected or while the glue dries. The pressing force should not be colossal; it is much more important not to damage the surface of the parts being connected. At the same time, the clamp must maintain high strength and be durable.

For the manufacture of clamp parts that are in direct contact with the workpiece, it is better to use hardwood. Ideally, these are bars and planks made of larch, beech, hornbeam or birch. This tree has a fairly high strength and at the same time is elastic, restoring its shape well. The hardness of such wood is usually higher than that of the processed parts, which can be compensated for by heels made of leather, light rubber, felt or softer wood.

Both hard wood and rolled metal can be used as a frame for the clamp. Corners or profile pipes work well, but they need to be carefully cleaned, primed and painted so that no traces of rust remain on the finished product. To prevent accidental mechanical damage or pushing through of the parts being connected, it is recommended to glue wooden strips over the metal elements of the clamp or pull a loose silicone hose.

Which screw and flywheel to use

Despite the not very high clamping force, ordinary studs with metric threads will not be very convenient for use as a clamp screw, unless very small. A small thread pitch will make the choice of free play tedious; among other things, the triangular profile is “eaten up” much faster.

It would be much more correct to purchase studs with trapezoidal or rectangular profile threads, otherwise called jack threads. The optimal step is about 2-2.5 turns per centimeter, this ensures good smoothness of adjustment and optimal tightening force for wooden parts.

You can get studs, nuts and fittings of the required type, either by contacting a turner directly, or in a hardware store, including on the Internet. There is, however, one BUT: most factory products have a full thread, while a slightly different screw configuration is optimal for a clamp. Ideally, there are smooth pillars at the ends of the stud: about 20 mm long for the bearing (slightly thicker than the thread) and about 30-40 mm for the handle (slightly thinner or the same diameter).

The handle or handwheel can be made either from a wooden block, or by drilling a hole in the side of a stud and inserting a steel rod into it as a shift lever, like on a vice.

Straight screw clamp

To make a simple clamp, you will need a frame in the shape of a U-shaped bracket. It can be made in two ways. The first is to connect three bars at right angles on a tongue-and-groove joint, strengthening it with glue and a pair of dowels. This option requires a fairly highly qualified carpenter: hemming and fitting must be done with high precision, because the load in these nodes is very significant.

The second option is somewhat simpler, but more expensive in terms of material consumption. You can cut the bracket from thick birch plywood by gluing 3-4 blanks 12-16 mm thick with Titebond wood glue.

When choosing the shape of the parts, keep in mind that the most reliable design will be one with external bevels for greater rigidity. The bracket stop and its opposite part, in which the clamping screw will be fixed, must be trapezoidal in shape. In this case, the inclined sides should diverge outward at an angle of approximately 30º greater than the straight line. Thickening in the middle part of the frame is also highly desirable.

To secure the screw, it is recommended to use fittings or nuts of the appropriate diameter, which are fixed in one of the “horns” of the clamp frame from the inside and are additionally strengthened with epoxy resin. If the bracket was assembled from bars, then you need to insert a screw into one of them before final assembly. If the frame structure is multi-layered, then the footers can be replaced with nuts that are glued into the cut of the central layer of plywood. Here it is important to monitor the direction of the screw axis and at the same time not allow glue to get into the threaded joint - lubricate it well with grease.

At the point where the clamping heel is attached to the screw, some kind of swivel is needed so that the parts do not move when clamped. It is best to press a bearing matched to the diameter of the inner race onto the solid edge of the screw stud. For a reliable stop, clamp the pin into the drill chuck, and then use a triangular file and a hacksaw to cut a groove for the retaining ring. Next, in the block that serves as the supporting heel, you need to use a core drill to make a cylindrical groove and press a bearing with a pin into it, strengthening the fit with varnish or epoxy resin.

Adjustable universal clamp

Clamps with variable opening widths are more versatile in use; they are most often used when joining furniture panels. To make such a clamp, you will need a calibrated strip of dry hardwood, ideally beech or ash. A constant profile size along the entire length and the complete absence of any defects are required. The pressing force that the clamp can withstand directly depends on the thickness and width of the slats.

So, manufacturing should begin by attaching a perpendicular stop to one end of the longitudinal rail. It is better to make it from two bars that fold and clamp the rail in two symmetrical grooves, or hammer it like a hammer. Thus, the blank for the clamp with a fixed stop takes on a T-shape, and the length of the stop on the working side should be greater than the reach from reverse side no more than 3 times. The connection between the stop and the rail can be strengthened with furniture ties; it is also possible to connect it with 2-3 dowels and PVA glue.

The reverse part of the stop is designed to secure the bowstring. A straight steel bar with a diameter of 10-12 mm is ideal for it. The end of the rod should be threaded and spread between the end stops with nuts from the inside. Holes for the bowstring should be drilled as close as possible to the back edge of the stop. In this case, the distance from the edge should be sufficient so that the wood does not split. After installing the bowstring, it is necessary to mark a series of notches in increments of 15-20 mm on the end of the bar facing the clamped part, make slots up to 2 mm deep using a fitting hacksaw according to these markings and trim the notches with a knife.

Next, you should make a movable block of the clamp. A through eye of rectangular cross-section is made in it, the dimensions of which exactly correspond to the thickness and width of the longitudinal strip. It is ideal to hollow out a groove 2-3 mm smaller in size, and then bring it to the desired shape with a square rasp. The bar should sit tightly in the block, but at the same time allow relatively free movement along the clamp and its tilt for locking on the notches. You also need to do this under the string through hole so that the rod is positioned strictly perpendicular to the rail, and the block slides freely along it with a slight backlash.

On the reverse side of the hard stop you need to fill another block, which will fasten the bar with the bowstring parallel to each other. To do this, you can use a small piece of a block in which a groove for the bar is made with a chisel and an incomplete hole is drilled for the bowstring. Dowels or bolts are used to secure the block. As for the clamping screw and heel, they are installed in the same way as a conventional clamp. It is enough to drill a through hole in the movable block not too close to the edge and glue a sleeve or nut into it from the inside. This way, when you clamp the part, the nut of the screw mechanism will rest against the wood and fit even tighter.

Angle clamp

The most difficult to manufacture can be called a clamp, which provides fixation of two parts at right angles. At the same time, it is the most useful and sought-after tool in a carpenter's workshop.

The basis for the corner clamp will be a piece of thick plywood. It is better to take a square board approximately 300x300 mm with a thickness of at least 14 mm. In the corner of the base you need to fix two blocks of hardwood, which for convenience we will call standard. These blocks must meet at right angles facing the center of the plywood board; the thickness of the blocks is at least 25x25 mm. Their fastening should be as rigid as possible: it is recommended to first glue the bars, ensuring their perpendicularity using a plumber's square, and then strengthen the connection with ties or bolts.

From the center of each block you need to draw a perpendicular line, coaxially with which the screw studs will be located. It is necessary to retreat from the bars a distance of 20-30 mm greater than the maximum thickness of the parts being pulled together. After this, two more bars are rigidly attached to the base parallel to the previous ones. It is advisable to glue the nuts in immediately, and then proceed with the thrust bars in the same way as with the reference ones: first position them on the adhesive joint, and then strengthen them with ties. For greater convenience, you can immediately screw the screw studs into the nuts.

After securing the thrust bars, all that remains is to press on the bearings secured in the movable blocks. The cross-section, dimensions and material of the latter must be similar to the standard bars. Finally, you need to fill the handles or insert the flip levers and trim off the excess base of the clamp, removing the protruding corners for free rotation by the screw handles

Custom clamps for specific applications

In any carpentry workshop, homemade clamps show themselves to be more adapted to local working conditions than those purchased in a store. A wide range of variations of the three designs described above can be used.

For example, on one rail you can attach not one, but two adjustable blocks for positioning parts at a large distance. Such a tool will be very useful, for example, when assembling door blocks.

Instead of a handle, you can weld a regular hex head from a bolt onto the stud. This is relevant if, when assembling parts, several clamps need to be frequently clamped, released and rearranged. In this case, it will be convenient to rotate the clamping screw using a socket with a ratcheting mechanism or even a screwdriver.

To assemble products of complex shapes, you can make clamp stops and movable blocks of a more complex configuration, which are well suited for working with irregularly shaped parts.

A clamp is a universal tool that no craftsman can do without. On the market, the cost of such a device is quite high, so a homemade clamp will be the best option for working with wood and metal. The manufacturing process does not require a lot of materials and financial costs.

Types and principles of operation

There are two main types of clamps: for carpentry and metal work. It is possible to use metal clamps for working with wood, but you will always have to put spacers under the jaws, otherwise the product will be damaged. In carpentry work, it is quite common to use corner clamps - whether it is tightening two frames, where an important aspect is to maintain a 90-degree angle, or assembling entrance and interior doors. When gluing the main door frame, you cannot do without clamps. On the Internet you can find a wide variety of options for making clamps with your own hands; drawings are also available. Here are the most common options.

A drawing of a homemade carpentry clamp is shown in the figure.

For assembly you need: stops, block clamps, movable blocks and strips, which can be made from 3/4 plywood, and the top and bottom can be made from 1.2 mm thick plywood. The corner clamp is assembled quite easily, and the plywood will not scratch the surfaces of wood, plastic and other surfaces. Quite a bit of material is needed, which significantly reduces the price of the product. The carpenter's version of a homemade clamp is characterized by a simple design and provides good compression of the parts together. You can make a tool from scrap materials:

• Two bars 4-5 cm thick, the length can be selected depending on the tasks.
• Two furniture nuts.
• Two studs.
• Wing nuts for studs.

The bars need to be shaped into a kind of pincers. This can be done with a jigsaw or a regular wood saw. Then the bars are leaned against each other, and two holes are drilled in them. The studs are screwed into furniture nuts and locked. The compression of two wooden planks occurs with the help of wings. The cheeks of the product must be made of soft wood so as not to damage the surface during compression.

Band clamps are very popular among carpenters. They can be used to compress large objects. The manufacturing sequence is as follows.

This type provides strong compression, and the material for assembly is likely to be found in every workshop.

Making a corner clamp

The corner clamp is also widely used for welding work. Almost any welding work involves connecting parts at a certain angle and holding them stationary. When a welder welds, he has a holder with an electrode in one hand and a mask in the other, so corner clamps will greatly simplify working with the product. In stores, the price of such devices can reach 2 thousand rubles. and more.

Therefore, the most the best option will make a metal clamp with your own hands. This will not only save money, but also allow you to make the tool of any size and add some changes to the design. Drawings of the corner clamp are shown in the figure.

For this you need: strips of metal 8-10 mm thick. To fix metal elements you need to take a corner 40 by 40 mm or 50 by 50 mm. The corners can be fastened together by bolting or simply welded, which will provide them with the necessary rigidity. For the clamping device, you need to weld 3-4 nuts together, but the best option would be to make a bracket with a threaded hole 30-40 mm thick. To move the clamping mechanism, it is necessary to make guides. Using a drill, drill a hole, insert a bolt into it and tighten it with a nut.

The next modification is simple, but the finished tool must be mounted on a workbench for convenience. The clamp consists of two corners and two strips made of sheet metal. For a quick-clamping design, you will need two corners 70 by 70 or 50 by 50, depending on the dimensions of the metal. If the metal is large, then it is advisable to take larger corners. You will also need 2 steel studs to act as clamps, 6 nuts and 2 or more sheet metal plates.

Weld two corners together at 90 degrees; the distance between them can be reinforced with metal strips or the same corners. Now in the middle of each corner you need to weld one bracket.

Next, you should cut the thread or simply drill a hole and weld a nut into which the stud will be screwed, securing the workpiece. Weld nuts at the end of the stud, having previously welded them together.

Tubular design

Professionals or amateur welders quite often have to work with different pipe diameters. To weld two pipes, the two pipes must be matched exactly. With their help, you can not only save time, but also quickly adjust the alignment of the pipes and make tacks. Exists big choice clamps of this type in hardware stores, but, as a rule, such products are quite weak, and those that good quality, cost a lot of money.

Therefore, the best option would be to make them yourself. It is advisable to have several types of clamps on the farm, depending on the diameter of the pipes. To make the first option, you will need two pieces of U-shaped profile, two nuts and two bolts.

Manufacturing sequence:

• Saw off two pieces of a U-shaped profile approximately 20-40 cm and weld them at an angle of 90 degrees, as shown in the figure.
• In order not to cut threads in the holes, you can simply weld a nut on top of the hole.
• The width of the profile can be selected depending on the diameter of the pipe with which the work will be carried out, and bolts and nuts will probably be found in every workshop.

The design is quite simple and does not require special skills for manufacturing. The same option can be made for butt welding of pipes: for this you need to take a U-shaped straight profile from 1m to 2m long, screw it to the workbench and make similar clamps that were in the previous version.

Universal option

If you have to weld pipes at different angles, then this option will be preferable. For production you will need 2 corners 70 mm by 70 mm, 2 strips of thick metal 7-10 mm (thicker), 3 M17 bolts and 5 nuts.

Cut the ends of the planks at 45 degrees, then weld them to the corners. Pre-drill holes at the ends of the planks and bolt them together. As shown in the picture, weld pieces of corners 5 to 7 cm wide to the main corners.

Then drill holes in the pieces of corners and weld one nut on each side. This design of clamps is good because it is possible to weld pipes at any angle; just unscrew the nut on the strips and set the desired angle, and the bolts that are screwed into the clamps from above will ensure reliable fastening of the pipe. This design can be clamped in a vice, which is available in every workshop, after setting the angle. If it is necessary to weld pipes with a large diameter, then the corners are taken thicker.

Quick-clamping method

If a regular screw clamp needs to be tightened and waste time, then a quick-clamping one will be able to press two surfaces very quickly. Required items:

• Plywood 3 or 4 mm.
• Springs (the stiffer the springs are used, the stronger the pressure will be).
• A small piece of plywood 1.5 or 2 mm, for making templates.

To begin, cut out the finished parts according to the templates. Then make cuts in the workpiece number 1 using a hand router.

The next step is to prepare the steel bar on which the moving part will move. It can be cut from sheet metal 5-7 mm thick.

Then assemble the mechanism itself; for this you will need springs and two steel strips with slots in the middle, which can be cut quite easily with a grinder. Assemble the mechanism as shown in Fig. 10.

Insert the trigger and place the second half of the part on top. Drill holes and fasten the two halves together. Make fixed jaws from sheet metal as shown in Fig. eleven.

Weld the stationary part of the jaws onto a pre-prepared strip 50 cm long and 3 cm wide. It is necessary to make wooden tips for the jaws themselves so as not to scratch the product during clamping.

All wooden parts can be impregnated with superglue to increase the service life of the tool. The final version looks like this:

This type of clamp is very convenient and allows you to compress fairly large parts together, and the compression force can reach up to 400 kg.

Thus, for fixing various parts in a stationary state and during welding work, various types of clamps are suitable, which will make the work more comfortable.

Every craftsman who makes products and parts made of metal or wood cannot do without homemade clamps. Previously, such a tool was produced in various modifications, from specialized to universal. The main task is to fix the workpiece for processing and joining operations. Let's look at how to make a quick-release clamp with your own hands in various variations.

Angle clamp

This type of do-it-yourself metal clamp is designed to fix two objects at right angles and connect them to each other using any methods, however, the main purpose is as a jig for welding metal parts at the angle required for work. To make it properly , you will need the following components:

Corners should be welded at 90 degrees to metal or steel plates. We attach the worm-type structure by welding, and screw a pin-driver into the working nut in order to assemble a stop at the end. The stop must turn freely. Then we need to drill a hole on the back side where we insert a metal rod as a lever. The incredibly simple design and practicality of use have become the key to the popularity of such a clamp among everyone who works with metal and products made from it.

Carpenter's clamp

Such designs used in carpentry are of the following types:

• Standard clamp, which is the most popular or simple;
• In the form of a caliper for small parts and quick fixation;
• Self-clamping clamp for milling processes and working with workpieces of various heights.

The first type is made from two pine blocks, a locking nut, rods, threaded wing nuts and thrust washers. The manufacturing process is very simple:

1. We cut out the working pliers from the bars, drill holes for the studs, taking into account a small amount of play;
2. We screw in the studs and lock them using appropriate methods;
3. We ensure alignment with nuts, made either in the form of wings or standard nuts for improved tension.

The second option is used when prompt fixation of small parts is necessary. Production is carried out from small bars and thin-sheet plywood. Furniture nuts and collar pins act as a worm system. One stop is stationary; we attach it to the end of the guide rail, in which we cut out recesses to fix the moving mechanism.

There are both portable and stationary versions of this design, where grooves are cut for movement with the fastening of fixed stops. The clamp is a furniture nut, a hairpin and a knob. Due to this, you can work with workpieces of any size.

The self-clamping design has a lever with an eccentric at the rotating end. We turn it at a certain angle, a quick clamp is automatically obtained. The height is adjusted with a pin on the workbench. It is made individually for each matrix, depending on its purpose and the purpose of the work being carried out.

Pipe clamp

Welding metal pipes end to end is a complex operation. It is considered simpler to weld the pipe to the finished system. The design for such cases is made of a metal angle and steel plates. The halves of such a device should be fixed using the traditional method, namely with threaded rods. As a result, you can get a fairly simple and effective design, which will greatly facilitate the work when welding pipes with various designs.

There are other types of designs, including cam mechanisms, tape and wire clamps, which can be useful for working with specific structures, including particularly fragile and thin ones. However, their production is the subject of separate master classes and articles on specialized resources.

Homemade clamps are indispensable assistants for any craftsman working with metal and wooden parts and products. Making them is quite simple and very exciting. Here it is important to follow the manufacturing technology, find the best instructions and videos. You can buy clamps, but they may ultimately not be suitable due to the specificity of the workpiece or work. This is why you should make your own clamps. Good luck working with various workpieces and making homemade quick-release clamps!

Beginning craftsmen, perhaps, at the first stage of their work, make do with only two tools: a hammer and a hacksaw. But as you gain experience, their number no longer becomes enough. You always need to glue two parts together and secure something in a vice or clamps. Making a clamp with your own hands is very easy and simple.

Using the tool, types and its structure

There are no clamps that would one hundred percent meet our needs when carrying out work around the house. Clamps come in different shapes, models and sizes. As a rule, there are not enough of them. Below is a short list of devices for solving assigned tasks in wood and metal processing:

• wooden;
• metal;
• F-shaped;
• C-shaped;
• corner;
• cam;
• G-shaped;
• wire clamps;
• ribbon clips.

Making a clamp yourself is quite simple. Of course, when carrying out work, this is not a tool that is constantly needed. But it doesn't hurt to always have it on hand.

Wooden clamp for screed

One of the most accessible and inexpensive to produce examples for self-made. It is easy to do and easy to use. For its production, maple or pine planks are taken. Their minimum width can be 5 cm, thickness not less than 0.6 cm. A metal rod with four nuts is used as a lock. To make a handle, you will need any hardwood that does not have visible external defects. The moving part is completely dried and can easily be moved along the metal rod.

At the ends of the rod there are two nuts that are tightened to prevent divergence. You can use a simple locking nut, as well as the original nut with a stationary lock. Additionally, two more nuts and washers are screwed on both sides. These nuts lock each other. Be sure to leave an opening for the rotating pin.

Wooden and steel clamp

It is also shaped like the letter F. Its key difference is the use of metal parts. The durability and strength of the metal plays an important role in this case. The most difficult part is the plate itself, into which the bar will later be inserted. Several holes need to be drilled. When finished, you can clean the metal using a grinder. The plate must move easily on this plate. A gap is drilled at the opposite end of the plate, which should match the thread of the screw stud.

The end should be made at an angle to fully match the cutouts. This is done easily by grinding on a machine. How to make the remaining parts was discussed above.

DIY F-shaped clamp

It is made from both wood and metal. It is shaped like a caliper. It is made from durable wood or plywood sheets. You need to cut recesses on the rail to fix the movable device itself. Typically a worm system for moving the bar is used. The parts are secured with a holder, which is secured with a few turns of the nut. When the holder is released, the part is easily removed from the clamp.

The principle of operation of the clamp

When a specialist works with wooden and metal workpieces and needs to fix the product for precise processing. This can be done using clamps.
Ancient models allowed it to be fixed with one hand, modern models frees both hands of the master. Not only are they quick-release, but at the same time they allow you to use both hands. The following types of clamps are known:

1. Assembly.
2. Manual.
3. Angular.
4. Screw.
5. Lever.

Lever clamps are based not only on the worm-screw principle of operation, but also on the lever mechanism. They are also called clamps. They make it possible to accurately and instantly fix the part. The use of enormous force is not required here; all the main work is done by levers. These clamps have a very simple design, so you can make them yourself at home. This principle of operation allows not only to fasten the part, but also to calculate the compressive force. This is important, for example, when gluing.
Other types of clamps differ only in the method of fastening the parts.

We make carpentry clamps

When working with wood, you often have to fix it, so you can’t do without a carpenter’s clamp. You will definitely need it when you just need to fasten boards or glue together pieces of wood or sheets of trees.
Undoubtedly, such models are commercially available. But they are made from softer alloys, so manufacturers reduce the cost of goods. And they don't always fit in size. A DIY clamp is the best option.
There are a huge number of modifications of clamps on the market. Some of them can be universal, and some are completely disposable and they are made for one technical operation. You just need to understand the principle of operation, then making any option with your own hands will not be difficult. There are no manufacturing standards.

The simplest option is from a hacksaw for metal. She gets ready quickly. But its use is limited. Although this functionality is sufficient for working with small objects.

The fastening elements are bolts, at one end of which there is a nut, at the other end there may be a removable handle or an open-end wrench.

Since the frame can be adjusted in length, this will allow you to work with workpieces of different widths. Mainly used for gluing parts. It will not be possible to attach it to the table, since the design does not allow it. But if there are no other suitable tools, then this option will come in handy as always.

Manufacturing of bench clamps

Locksmith work in an unequipped room always has one constant problem that locksmiths have to face, this is the fastening of workpieces. It is impossible to exclude movement of the workpiece on the table if the table is not equipped with fasteners. One of these affordable and very simple remedies is a hand-made bench clamp.

In order to make a clamp with your own hands, you need to have minimal skills in plumbing. For its production, wood, studs, rolled metal, pipes, and wooden beams are used. It also wouldn't hurt to have a welding machine. The most important thing when carrying out any work is to follow the instructions and observe safety precautions.

Consider the option of making a clamp from wood. You can choose the size yourself, which one is most suitable for the type of work. The end result should be a screw type clamp.

1. Transfer the templates of wooden blanks to a sheet of cardboard. The sizes are selected independently.
2. Next, transfer the blank templates to a wooden board. A variety of hardwood is ideal for these purposes.
3. The part is cut out using a hacksaw or jigsaw. The contour of the part is processed with a file and sanding paper.
4. In the center of the workpiece, mark the location for the hole. The bolt axis will pass through it. The hole in the upper part of the fixing jaw is widened with a round file to dimensions 1.5 or 2.5 times wider than the size of the bolt itself.
5. Drill a hole in the handle for the nut. The diameter must match the number of the wrench. Use a rasp or file to shape the hole into a hexagon. We seat the nut in the hole with epoxy resin and, alternatively, any other solid adhesive.
6. The clamp is assembled, the bolt is secured with glue in the lower part of the fixing jaw. Loops are attached at the back to open the fastening jaws. Place the upper jaw on the bolt and tighten it with a handle.

In fact, there are a large number of examples for making clamps at home. For these purposes, for example, it is possible to remake metalworking hacksaws.

Making a clothespin clamp

One of the simplest and most popular clamps is the clothespin clamp. Making a clamp with your own hands is very simple. The principle of operation of such a clamp is similar to the principle of a clothespin. Only the sizes here will be larger.

First you need to cut out blanks from plywood. In total you need to prepare 10 such parts. Five out of ten should have a rounded bulge in the center. The length of each jaw of the holder is 15 cm.

It should be noted that if you need a larger model, then you need to use stronger and thicker plywood.

We begin to glue the profiles of the blanks one by one. First there should be a profile with a convexity. There should be two such clamps. We connect them together so that the ridges fit into the grooves.

If everything is done correctly, then such a clamp will be movable and work like a clothespin. We wrap an elastic band around a clamp. That's all, the DIY clamp is ready.

How to choose a clamp when purchasing

The clamp is a fairly simple device and there should be no problems with the choice. The main thing before buying is to check its serviceability so that the body does not have cracks. The screw part should be easy to screw in and out. See how tightly the lips fit. They should be even. If the kit includes rubber gaskets, try them out. They are needed in order not to leave marks on soft materials during fastening. The device must also be lightweight and durable.

Anyone who has had to do something with their own hands in the direction of improving their own home does not need to talk about the importance of various types of clamps and clamps. Without their presence, it is impossible to imagine both carpentry and plumbing. To properly process any part, you need a clamp. You can easily make it yourself at home using the most basic tools.

Types and types of clamps

Mechanical clamping devices differ both in purpose and in the material from which they are made. The main starting materials are wooden beams.

Sometimes clamps are assembled in a rather complex spatial configuration: they provide both horizontal and vertical compression of the workpiece being processed. For assembly when constant control of a right angle is necessary, an angular clamp is very convenient. It’s quite possible to do it yourself, but it’s better to practice on less complex structures.

Clamps also differ in the type of elements that create mechanical compression. The most common are clamps based on a screw mechanism. But anything that can provide the necessary compression force can be suitable for the design. Even those cut from old car cameras.

Why not just buy them?

In any tool store, clamps are presented in a more or less wide range. And any master has a sufficient number of them in his arsenal. What usually stops a craftsman from buying another one? Firstly, the price - a quality instrument cannot be cheap by definition. Secondly, it is not always possible to find what you need. A self-made clamp to perform a specific task ensures the process of assembling the product on an individual basis. This is not always possible to achieve using a universal clamp from a tool store.

Disadvantages of the standard tool

On the construction market you can find a lot of clamps that look like real ones and are expensive, but they only work for a very short time. They usually made in China. They will have to be thrown away along with the money that was paid for them. Most often it fails; it is made from a cheap, low-quality alloy. If you don’t want to throw money away, then you should think about how to make a clamp with your own hands. This will not only result in another useful thing in the master’s instrumental arsenal, but also an increased level of skill and self-esteem.

DIY clamp: what is needed to make it

First of all, you need to acquire a high-quality timber made of hardwood or a piece of rolled metal profile (preferably a channel section) - this is the basis on which the stop and screw mechanism should be mounted. The most important element clamps is exactly it. A bolt with a large thread profile nut is best suited. To assemble the structure into a single whole, you will need a drill with attachments and standard bolt fasteners. Making clamps with your own hands does not require outstanding qualifications, but you should still have basic carpentry and plumbing skills.

Making a clamp

The most important advantage of a homemade clamp is its narrow focus on providing a specific technological operation. That is why it is necessary to carefully measure everything and sketch out a schematic drawing of the future product. A self-made clamp can and should last a very long time, but this will only happen if it is competently designed and assembled correctly.

A stop and a screw mechanism must be mounted on the supporting frame beam. The free movement of the screw provides sufficient force for compression. The fastening of the stop and the screw with the nut must prevent them from being pulled out of their fixed position when technological force is applied. An important point is the presence of a flywheel mounted on the head of the process screw. If it is not provided for and not carried out, then the compression of the clamp will have to be done with the help of which is neither productive nor functional.

In order to be able to use the clamp in as many operations as possible, the support on it is usually made in the form of a removable block that can be placed in several fixed positions. For assembling large wooden planes, it makes sense to construct a more complex clamp in the form of a system of two or more screws mounted on the same frame base. The efforts invested in the manufacture of a technological tool always give the proper return when using it.