What makes the starter in the car. Car starter - device, principle and features of the starter

Friends, let's deal with the starter! What is a starter in the car, consider its principle of operation and device.

How does the car beg like? You need to sit behind the wheel, insert the key into the ignition lock, turn it into the extreme position (or press the "Start" button). The engine will start and you can start moving. Stop…!

Here, in this place, he said his word and silent again! The starter said his main word and turned off modestly!

But he, starter, did the main job, without which we would not go anywhere. He made a heavy operation in seconds, sprung iron pile and breathed life into the dead-silent engine.

And so, he is the main! An indispensable element. The name of him starter - he always starts first.

Therefore, it makes sense to consider it in detail its work and the device.

And now, before moving to the starter design, we will bow in the outer of the story. At the dawn of the automotive industry, at the beginning of the twentieth century, the car was not the easiest thing.

It was necessary to desperately twist a special handle, which in case of incorrect actions could easily squeeze his owner.

It is clear that during the time when the car was synonymous with luxury, the automakers did not want to risk the health of their customers, therefore, there were imaginable and inconceivable ways in the heads of engineers to automate the engine startup process.

There were attempts to use compressed air, mechanical springs and many other things, but all these sweats did not bring visible benefits until one young American engineer could not create a compact and efficient electric motor that he proposed to use to spinning motors.

For this invention grabbed GENERAL MOTORS, and in 1912 the electric starter was first installed on the car. After all, what a starter at that time is the first attempts of automotive comfort.

And what inside and how does it work?

Time to return these days and start studying the starter schemes that can be found under the hoods of our cars. Among the variety of these devices, two main types can be distinguished:

• with reducer;
• without gearbox.

The first type starter, if you believe the experts most in demand.

The fact is that the presence of a mechanical transmission (gearbox) allows you to use less powerful electric motors, and this is useful for the on-board network of the car.

In addition, the starter with the gearbox will start the engine of the machine, even if the battery discharged a little, which the second variety of these devices cannot do.

Although it should be noted that the engine start process in any case requires a large power consumption, the starter current at start-up can reach 200 or more ampere, so with a noticeable discharge of the battery power unit, even if there is an efficient gearbox.

In the piggy bank of the positive sides of the illegal types, the speed of triggering and high maintainability, which is also appreciated.

In general, all starters have a similar design in which key components can be distinguished:

• dC electric motor;
• retractor (traction) relay;
• bendix (overtaking coupling).

So, when you are going to start a car and insert the key to the ignition lock, everything happens according to the following scenario.

At the time of rotation, the key of the current from the battery is supplied to the retractor relay. The movable part of the relay begins to move and with the assistance of the lever moves the benkiks from the drive gear so that it connects to the wedding of the flywheel.

By the way, the Bendix at the starter is an interesting detail. Its functions include not only the provision of a hook with a crown of the flywheel, but also the protection of the entire node from the unlucky flywheel.

It works as, due to its cunning mechanical structure, it can rotate with an unlimited speed without harm to the anchor of the starter. The truth is not long.

After contact with the flywheel took place, the electric motor comes into operation, which spins it.

When the engine started and the flywheel turnover exceeded the starter speed, the Bendix gently disconnects the gear, and the trailer relay returns the entire design to its original position. The engine startup process is over. That's so simple.

Now, dear readers, what a starter you know what the work takes place between the turn of the ignition key and the launch of the power unit. Do not forget to read about, it will also be in the topic.

Well, we do not say goodbye, but we say: "Goodbye to new meetings on our blog pages!"

The car starter is a small 4-band motor, which provides the primary rotation of the crankshaft. This is necessary in order to ensure the necessary frequency of its rotation to start the internal combustion engine. As a rule, it is necessary to have a starter, which has an average of 3 kW of energy, to start the gasoline engine of the medium volume of cylinders. The starter is the DC motor and nourishes energy from the battery. Taking the voltage from the battery, the electric motor increases its power using 4 broths, which are an integral part of any car starter.

Types of starters

Among the large number of similar electromagnetic engines, only 2 main types are distinguished: starters with a gearbox and without it.

1. With gear

   Many experts advise to use the starter with the gearbox. This is due to the fact that such a device has a reduced current need for efficient operation. Such devices will ensure the crankshaft steering even with a low battery charge. Also, one of the most important advantages of such a device is the presence of permanent magnets that reduce the problem with the winding of the stator to a minimum. On the other hand, during the long-term use of such a device, there is a chance of breaking the rotating gear. But this, as a rule, leads factory marriage or simply poor-quality production.

2. Without gearbox

   Starters that do not have a gearbox have directly direct action on the rotation of the gear. In this situation, car owners who have without gear starters benefit that such devices have a simpler design and are easily repaired (read about your own hands). It is also worth noting that after the current is supplied to the electromagnetic switch, the speed of the gear with the flywheel occurs. This allows you to provide very fast ignition. It is worth noting the fact that such starters have high endurance, and the probability of breakage due to the effects of electricity is minimized. But devices without gearbox have the likelihood of poor performance at low temperatures.

Principles of starter operation with gearbox

When the current is supplied from the car battery drived by the ignition closure, the reservoir starter is an anchor of the starter across the gearbox, which increases the power of the passing voltage at times. Next takes the transmission of torque from the anchor to the gear. All this also occurs with the help of a gearbox, which is endowed with permanent magnets, and special brushes that are able to produce greater resistance than the brushes of a regular starter allow you to ensure its constant and efficient operation.

Scheme of the starter VAZ 2106, 21061 (35.3708) (Zhiguli):

1 - Drive Cover;	14 - relay cover;
2 - retaining ring;	15 - contact bolts;
3 - restrictive ring;	16 - collector;
4 - drive gear;	17 - brush;
5 - overtaking coupling;	18 - the sleeve of the anchor shaft;
6 - leash ring;	19 - Cover from the manifold;
7 - rubber plug;	20 - casing;
8 - drive lever;	21 - the shunt coil of the stator winding;
9 - anchor relay;	22 - housing;
10 - Holding winding of the traction relay;	23 - screw fastening of the pole of the stator;
11 - retractive winding of the traction relay;	24 - anchor;
12 - tie bolt relay;	25 - anchor winding;
13 - contact plate;	26 - Intermediate ring.

1 - drive shaft;	20 - contact bolts;
2 - front cover sleeve;	21 - withdrawal of "positive" brushes;
3 - restrictive ring;	22 - bracket;
4 - gear with an inner ring of overtaking coupling;	23 - brush holder;
5 - roller overtaking coupling;	24 - "Positive" brush;
6 - support shaft drive with liner;	25 - anchor shaft;
7 - axis of the planetary gear;	26 - brazier stud;
8 - gasket;	27 - rear cover with sleeve;
9 - arm arm;	28 - collector;
10 - drive lever;	29 - Corps;
11 - front cover;	30 - permanent magnet;
12 - anchor relay;	31 - Core anchor;
13 - Holding winding;	32 - Opportal of the armature shaft with the liner;
14 - retractive winding;	33 - Planetary gear;
15 - traction relay;	34 - Central (presenter) gear;
16 - rod of traction relay;	35 - drove;
17 - core of traction relay;	36 - gear with inner teeth;
18 - contact plate;	37 - Ring chain;
19 - the cover of the traction relay;	38 - hub with an outer ring of overtaking coupling.

In the presented figure, you can see the principle of operation of the starter in more detail. At the time of bringing the starter to the active state, the voltage provided by the battery, which, in turn, is activated by switching on the ignition, it falls at once to 2 windings of the relay, which provides a starter craving (retractive 14 (see Fig. Starter of the VAZ 2110 "5702.3708" ) and holding 13). Because of the magnetic field, which is created by the windings of the relay anchor (12) draws up and at the relics of the lever (10) drives the gear (4), which instantly interacts with the engine flywheel. After the complete closure of the contact bolts (20) of the plate (18) occurred (18) ceases its effect the retracting winding. At this time, the anchor of the relay is in a drawn position with the help of the winding alone. When the ignition key turns into the 2nd position, there is de-energization of the winding, which holds the anchor of the relay. Thus, the anchor returns to its original position with a special spring. Thus, with the help of the lever (10) gear (4) is displayed, which engages with the engine flywheel.

Hello, dear car enthusiasts! Anyway, but the work has begun must be made to the end. When the starter car does not scroll, and the battery is charged, there is nothing else, how to ring the starter.

Checking the starter, the case is not difficult at all, however, not all car owners know how to check in the conditions of the garage. Checking the starter includes several main stages:

• checking the starter performance;
• check;
• checking the integrity of the windings and;
• check by Bendix.

How to check whether the starter works?

After you, carefully hold it into vice. Here the main thing is not to overdo it - one incorrect movement, and the device will be damaged. Prepare several wires with small resistance.

This can be, for example, battery charging wires. Connect the wires with the bottom terminal and the starter housing, and the wire that goes from the housing, connect with the "plus" and "minus" of the battery. Thus, you check its performance - if the starter is working, it will start rotating. Most likely, you will have to replace the traction relay.

Checking Starter Elements: Winding and Brushes

How to check the working capacity of the starter if it does not rotate? In this case, you need to check the brushes and starting windings.

To check the brushes, use a 12-volt label with two wires. Connect the wires to the brush holder and to the mass. If the light lights up - the integrity of the brushes is broken, and, accordingly, you need to replace the brushes.

Using all the same light bulbs, check the startup of the starter by attaching one wire to the starter housing, and the other to the winding output. Do not forget that before checking the starter shot in this way, it must be connected to. To check for intersensional circuit, use the special bench.

If during the inspection you have revealed a malfunction, just replace the details and elements failed, and the starter operation is normalized.

Bendix does not twist - keep checking the starter

If the starter turns on, however, the engine does not scroll, get ready to solve problems with the Bendix, which is most likely to be replaced. Some craftsmen repair bendixes, with the exception of such a fault, like a crack in its case.

But, if you do not have an exclusive starter, it will be easier to buy Bendix in the store and change it. Nevertheless, the reasons for the problem of Bindix we will know with you:

• dried or thickened lubricant;
• weaken springs;
• there was a decrease in the diameter of the rollers (the so-called diametrical wear);
• either the rollers were worn out one-sided and marched flat faces appeared on them.

Before you go to the store for the new Bendix, remove and grab the old with you so as not to purchase an absolutely unnecessary detail.

How to check whether the starter works when it is spinning very hard, and the headlights burn dim? First, pay attention to how voltage gives the battery.

If it turns out to be normal, check the condition of all contacts. If this check does not help detect a malfunction, disassemble the starter and replace the bushings to eliminate excessive friction between the parts.

It happens that the starter is spinning slowly, but the light bulbs burn quite brightly. This may indicate the failure of the traction relay. It is subject to replacement if, when you touch the "plus" of the lower terminal of the traction relay, it will suddenly start easily spinning.

If it is spinning as slowly, as before - the case is in the starter. The most common problem is a bad fit of the brushes to the collector, which is why they are very sparkling, and the collector is very polluted.

If you are still not confident in your abilities and do not know how to check the starter, video of the masters will undoubtedly come to your aid. But remember that one video lesson can be not enough.

Since, disassembled starter, it is important to pay attention to the smell. If before checking the serviceability of the starter, disassembled it, you will feel the smell of Gary - you may not even continue to check, but boldly go for the purchase of a new starter.

Well, perhaps, that's all. Now you know how to check the work of the starter in the conditions of the garage and you can perform it yourself.

And a significant car was born without a starter - the engines were launched by a clockwork handle, and this was considered the norm. Actually, cars have a dawn motorization enough other, more urgent problems, against which the rotation of the handle before the trip was not the most significant. However, the heavy and unsafe launch of the engine manually was nevertheless an obvious bottleneck of the first self-challenges, and in 1911 the American mechanical engineer Charles Kettering proposed the design of the electric starter. And in 1912, the first car was released, which carries the invention of kettering - Cadillac Model 30.

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However, despite this, the technical revolution did not happen - which can be traced at least according to the famous Ford T, which, which, bearing millionic circulations, was started with a handle until 1919 ... Actually, the reason was to considerable the extent that Charles Kettering, crowned as The inventor of the starter, offered Cadillac's not exactly the design, which is applied everywhere in our days!

Its design was difficult and unreliable, since the starter after launching the motor did not disconnect from the crankshaft, and switched to the generator mode, and the leading American autocontracens of that epoch reacted to the idea of \u200b\u200bcool. The reason for the support of the invention of Kettering Cadillac wounded in the personality of the founder of the company Henry Lyland, whose close to each other in 1910 was seriously injured by the back jerk of the clockwork handle with a too early ignition and as a result, died ...

The technical mini-revolution in the automotive industry thanks to the starter still happened - but four years later, in 1916. Namely, when another American engineer Vincent Gogo Bendix proposed to divide the generator and starter into two separate nodes, and connect the last to the engine only briefly - with the help of an overtaking coupling, known to this day as "Bendix".

Starter design

All car starters are very similar to each other. I figured out in the device of anyone - consider, understand everything. Although Matiza, even kamaz ...

The basis of any starter is the simplest electric motor. The flow of current on the rotor (it is "anchor") is carried out by powerful copper-graphite brushes, and the magnetic force of the stator is provided by either electromagnets or permanent magnets. The electrical schemes of most modern starters do not have fundamental differences - all starters for the vehicle electrical system are connected at three points - power plus from the battery, mass through the case, and the control plus from the ignition lock. It differs in essence, only power expressed in dimensions.

On the cylindrical building of the starter, the "barrel" of a smaller size is distinguished - this is the so-called "retractor relay". It performs two functions - actually feeds the starter to the starter, having powerful contacts, withstanding currents in hundreds of amps, and also adapts the starter shaft with the engine shaft through the rocker lever and the overtaking coupling- "Bendix".

This clutch works on the principle of classical bicycle bushings - that is, the starter can turn the motor, but the engine has not been "dragging" the starter, spinning on its destructive high speeds.

Visual 3D-Animation Starter Design

More notable differences between one starter model from the other are in the design of the front support of the rotor. The classic device is when the axis of the rotor is set at the starter on two bearings - the support sleeves from the bronze-graphite alloy. These bushings are, respectively, in the front and rear caps of the starter.

In principle, this "double-heat" design is the most reliable and correct. But often there are "one-stage" starters (on the garage jargon they are often not very correctly called nonsense), in which the rear support shaft of the rotor is, as it should be, in the back of the starter, but the front cover is absent at all.

In this case, the front support becomes the engine clutch or Carter CPP, where the support bushing is pressed. The starter is installed in its place in the car - and the shaft is based on two sleeves, as well as. As a rule, such a solution is used to reduce the dimensions of the nodes, and in principle, so far everything is fine, it is not worse than the classic one. But if the front support sleeve in the CATER CARTER is broken, it is already much more difficult to produce it - it is done by car and sometimes in very uncomfortable conditions. While in the two-air starter, the bushings are changing on the workbench, where everything is in sight and easily accessible.

Another fundamental constructive moment, distinguishing models of starters from each other - gearbox. Rather, its absence or presence, and in the case of availability - type. The fact is that the transmission of torque from the starter rotor to the engine flywheel can be carried out directly or through the gearbox built into the starter.

The option "directly" is when the "Bendix" gear, rotating the engine flywheel, is located right on the axis of the starter rotor. This design is sufficiently archaic, characterized by excess dimensions and weight, as well as a huge current consumed, but still occur. Much more efficient, easier and more compact gear starters. In them, the moment is transmitted to the weden of the flywheel or through one intermediate gear, or through the planetary transmission with another slowdown.

"Planetary" starters meet today most often. With them to start the engine, a battery is enough, almost twice the smallest tank and start current, rather needed for the same motor at a starter running directly.

Example of starter repair

From the theory, we turn to the real unit requiring repair. In our case, the symptoms of malfunctions were such - the starter began to rotate the motor very sluggish, regardless of the degree of charge of the battery. At the same time, being dismantled with the engine and connected starting wires to the battery, revolved cheerfully. The well-defined motor was badly managed to start even with such a sluggish rotation, but at some point the starter rose finally and emptied the smoke ...

After removing the back cover from the starter body, it was poured with a pair of tablespoons of black dust. Therefore, the first diagnosis is brushes. Remove the brush knot, remove the housing with the magnets (which the auto electricians between themselves call the "flask"), and remove the rotor.

After purging all parts of compressed air and washing in gasoline, it became clear that the brushes were worn almost completely, and their remains were almost shorted with a graphite powder. The power of the springs, pressing the remnants of the brushes, weakened, the resistance of the contact has increased, the brush holders and springs have been heated before planning, melting, climbing and hanging brushes.

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We take a brush knot as a sample, and go to the nearest contingent repair office and generators, where we ask you to choose a similar part. It costs us a brush knot assembled at 400 rubles, which at the cost of a new starter from 4 to 5 thousand quite inexpensive!

Clean the rotor and evaluate the state of the collector - the contact ring for which the brushes work. Wear noted by the naked eye (the photo shows the arrows), but the collector is able to still work after replacing the brushes. We care without a groove, taking it with small emery paper - this is enough.

In general, the depreciation of the rotor collector is a serious problem. In principle, under normal conditions, the collector of any starter is able to change a pair of brushes sets, but if its contact lamellasts have swept away - the rotor goes to scrap. This detail is expensive, it is not easy to buy it separately, and it is rational, except that for free - if a similar starter with a live rotor from old stocks of autochlama has or friends ... For when you completely killed a collector at the starter, there is usually no living space.

We look at the overtook coupling, otherwise - "Bendix" (name, by the way, went from the manufacturer's manufacturer BENDIX). Rotating his gear manually. One way is spinning to another - no. We move forward-back along the axis of the shaft - it goes easily, without jamming. In our case, with "Bendix", all the okay, it should be.

Meanwhile, the failure of the overtaking clutch is also a serious malfunction, since it is necessary to buy the necessary modification easily for the starters of common models - problems may arise with the search for the Bendix ... The main typical cause of the clutch fault is the wear of springs and rollers inside it, due to What she slip, without blocked when rotating in the working direction. As a result, the starter buzzes and turns, and the crankshaft stands. This malfunction is diagnosed easily - "Bendix" turns manually in both directions, whereas should be rotated only in one direction. In a good way, the overtaking clutch is in this case to be replaced because it has an unintended construction. Although some enthusiasts are ruined its body, stretch the "stinking" springs, cut new rollers from Kalen rods, but the result of this compensation is most often short-lived.

Since the rotor is extracted, simultaneously estimate the state of the planetary gearbox. We take out the gears, rinse with gasoline, inspect. Everything is in order, there are no complaints about the reducer. We apply on the gears and their bearings light layer lubrication Sls.

Note that the gearbox is a fairly reliable starter knot. It happens that the axes of gear-satelite satellites are cut off or the outer gear ring is burst - but it rarely occurs, and most often due to the initial defects of the metal or its processing, and not due to the loads during everyday work. For example, in the planetary gearbox starters, an external gear ring, called the "crown", is often made of plastic and quite durable (in our case, as can be seen in the photo below, the "crown" is metallic).

As a gearbox lubrication, ideally requires special compositions for planetary gears or special consistent low-temperature compositions, but they are not cheaps and rare - they are irrational to buy them for one-time work, where you will need one gram from all the most expensive tubes. Therefore, it is quite acceptable to apply a common lubricant for shruses or good imported lubrication for hub bearings. The main thing is to apply it in a very small quantity - to fill the gearbox! The abundance of a strongly poppy in the frost of Litola, to pay between the teeth of the gear, causes an excessive leap of current and even threatens to break the plastic "crown" ...

Now it is to work in styling. It will unwise not to evaluate the status of the contacts of the retractor relay, once the starter is removed and cleaned. But if we needed only keys for 8, for 10, and the cross screwdriver to disassemble the starter, and the cross-screwdriver will be able to open a traction relay only by a 100-watt soldering iron. From the relay there are wires, pass through the contact pistons in the lid, and they are disappeared outside. Therefore, after turning off the two crosses of the cap screws, it will be possible to raise it, just warming up alternately solder on two contacts shown in the photo by arrows. In fact, this is a simple procedure, and it can be done repeatedly if necessary.

We were lucky - contacts in order. Slightly refresh them, having joked a lump of sandpaper, squeezed in the "Warkes". After that, alternately warm the soldering iron, the passing pistons on the cover, and sharply slapping the lid on the table - the residues of the molten solder are flying out of the pistons, the holes are released, and now the lid can be put on the protruding wires and pour it back.

By the way, a serious error of car owners, carrying out the repair and prevention of the starter with their own hands, is the lubricant of the core of the retractor relay. In this node, the lubricant is not needed at all - maximum, you can slightly make the core and its nest engine oil and wipe almost dry - pure to reduce the probability of corrosion. And any consistant lubricants in this node are contraindicated - in the cold even the best and cold-resistant of them are capable of jamming the core. In the gap of the retractor relay should be pure and dry!

We collect the starter in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate (too without fanaticism!) Rear sleeve rear sleeve. Can I install the unit on the machine? You can, but first we will do one more thing!

The fact is that in the newly-acting brush knot - smooth parallelepipeds. And the collector is cylindrical, and even acquired from wear form is not quite the right cylinder. And, in a good way, the working edges of the brushes must have semicircular samples to increase the contact area, the plus should take place to the real collector profile.

Therefore, the first starter inclusions on the engine did not give rise to excess heating of the collector and the brushes due to the passage of a large current through a reduced contact stain, we will carry out a light wrap. Take the wires for the "cigarette", and with their help we connect the starter lying on the table to the battery, and twist a minute-other in the interruption.

Now now - all. We put the starter on the engine and enjoy fast and confident launch.

Have you ever encountered a starter repair?

The car starter device provides the engine running engine from the salon in any weather conditions. Most modern starters are similar to the principle of action, the device. All of them, in fact, are electric motors of high power of short-term action (10 s at normal temperature, 15 with winter). The starting cycle consists of three attempts with an interval of 30 with between them. Since the car has a single source of electricity (battery), the designers have chosen a DC motor for starters.

Schematic scheme

Running the engine is carried out by scrolling the flywheel's crown to which the starter gear is supplied. It gears the teeth with the flywheel only when the retractor relay is triggered, scrolls the flywheel with a powerful force (it is demonstrated on the video), after which, it returns to the formerly not adhesive state. The principle of starter operation is based on the movement of the overtook coupling, called the Bendix on the shaft when the relay is triggered.

As soon as the flywheel speed becomes higher than the speed of the electric motor (which indicates the launch of the machine's motor), the Bendix gear is discarded back, getting up with the flywheel. To do this, the starter tree has screw-shaped slots. The work of the starter is short-lived, after discarding the gear, it does not participate in the car movement. This is ensured by the design - the gear rotates freely only one way.

Thus, the sequence of actions when starting the engine engine is as follows:

1. the ignition key closes the circuit feeding the voltage on the winder relay winding;
2. the Bendix gear longitudinally moves along the shaft, engaging from the gear of the flywheel (on which the principle of operation of this node);
3. simultaneously with the movement, the circuit is closed, the supply voltage on the winding of the starter motor;
4. with sustainable operation of the car engine, the Bendix gear is discarded in its original position.

In various modifications, designers increase the car starting unit resource, changing the collector (brushes serve longer), using mixed winding excitement. Reliability of extension increases with a special relay consisting of two windings with the same number of turns. The principle of operation is based on compensation of opposite poles, in which the core is demagned, after which, the power of the return spring becomes enough to return anchor to its original state. The gear is disclaimed with the flywheel, the power contacts also open. The video shows the work of the classic starter nodes, other types of the unit have a similar effect, differ in dimensions.

Types of starters

The differences between the starters of various modifications are in the design of the engagement devices, the electrical part is the same in all. The principle of operation is distinguished, the design of the two main nodes: friction shock absorber, the mechanism of automatic discharge.

Classic option

The principle of the work of the classic type starter imposes restrictions on the characteristics of the gear of the coupling, the diameter of the flywheel. Reducer steam cannot have a teeth ratio above 16/18, which requires the use of sequential excitation of the winding of the electric motor. The disadvantage of the classic starter is low efficiency, strong heating, cumbersome excitation winding. The idle mode is dangerous to the device, since the electric motor can "go Voznos".
The advantage of a car starter with independent excitation is to increase efficiency, decreased dimensions, no overheating. Increase independent arousal in three ways, given the principle of operation of EDV:

• connecting the winding to an anchor independent source (controlled excitation);
• installation on the stator of constant magnets (uncontrollable excitation);
• parallel winding connection (parallel excitation).

With planetary gear

For the car, only a second option, improved by the planetary gearbox built into the starter body. The advantages of the design of this type are as follows:

• the battery voltage drop at the DVS start does not affect the magnetic field of the electric motor;
• multi-pole magnetic system compact electromagnetic;
• the principle of operation of the magnetic system allows you to increase the efficiency;
• cheap reserves from which magnets make, reduce the cost of the starter;
• the planetary gearbox adapts the characteristics of the electric motor with the frequency of rotation of the crankshaft;
• with cold start, a smaller current is consumed, the reliability of start-up increases.

The principle of operation of the planetary gearbox involves high wear of the gear. To increase the resource, the main gear is cast from thermosetting plastic under pressure, remed by bronze. Noise is reduced when working, the strength, wear resistance increases. The use of hard graphite in collector brushes, removal of copper powder material increased the interremary period of this node. There are types of drive mechanisms: inertial, electromechanical, combined. The couplings of the free move are snoring, roller, friction ratchet.