Why does not pull a diesel engine or reasons why the engine does not develop full power. Why does the car do not pull and what needs to be checked in this case? Why not pulling

Sufficient engine power is a prerequisite for normal operation of the car. But what to do when the diesel does not pull, although not "Multicolored" smoke? Yes, nothing - more likely to visit our service center. But first learn the possible theoretical reasons for such a phenomenon so as not to suspect mechanics in the "autobman" worthy of extra money.

What you need that diesel worked "in full"

Most often, even when there is no white, black or blue smoke, the motor does not develop full power. This happens sometimes due to a decrease in the patency of the coarse cleaning filter, in the tank of the machine, and reduce the patency of the fuel purification filter. Of course, most motorists with trepidation belong to their car and therefore traveling exactly as much as the manufacturer pointed out, hurry to change the filters in good faith.

That's just often automakers even suggest that water or dirt may be present in diesel fuel in the diesel fuel.

Therefore, the first and most importantly: you want the engine to pull "full" - change the fuel filter, at a minimum, after half of the manufacturer specified, run.

This is especially true when refueling somewhere far from large cities. However, you can call for us, and we will help not only with repair TNVD. Or other aggregates, but also upgrade the fuel system by making it less vulnerable to our fuel.

To make sure that the cause of the loss of the diesel power is poor-quality fuel, it is necessary to change the factory opaque fuel contact, connecting the TNLD with the fuel filter, on transparent driving school. After replacing the hose and fuel filter, be sure to pump the fuel system, removing excess air.

After fulfilling all this requirements, start the engine. If the fuel filter is scored, in the transparent hose you will see circulating air bubbles. By increasing the turnover of diesel, the number of bubbles will be visually significantly increased.

Air bubbles in the fuel system are the cause of interruptions in the operation of the motor (the engine "Troit"). In this case, there is a loss of power.

What to do when the motor "Troit" is only on high revs

If you have no complaints about the operation of the diesel engine on medium and idle turns, and when moving to high speed, the motor begins to "told", (which, naturally, does not allow it to work on the passport power), then it is worth thinking about:

• malfunction of the gas distribution mechanism of the engine (timing);
• malfunctions of the turbocharger;
• loss of the fuel filter (when it is literally clogged with mud).

To find a specific reason, again, start with a fine fuel filter - it is possible to replace it. Disconnect the fuel hose from the filter fitting and drop into a can with pure diesel fuel.

Now start the engine, and if it works on any turns like a clock, it means that the cause of the unstable work was just a contaminated fuel purification filter. So, it is time to replace it. If the fault has not passed, try again to clean the filter of rough purification from dirt. And re-pump the fuel system.

If, after an additional cleaning of filters, the engine is hard for turnover, above average, then check compression. It may decrease as a result of a violation of the functionality of the valve mechanism, including due to the malfunction of the hydrocomathers (when one of them was jammed due to dirty oil) and the cylinder-piston group.

In a word, the reasons for the motor operation is not fully powerful. And to take the right (and minimal at the price) solution, easier and cheaper to call in our car center, to forget once and forget that your diesel is "does not pull." So do not postpone tomorrow what you needed to do the day before yesterday - repair injectors or engine diagnostics.

Many at least once had come across a situation when the engine perfectly worked before that was blown away, the car as if he was playing anchor from behind. The reasons for which the engine does not pull and does not gain momentum, various, but recognize the signs of most is easy and without the skills of the car diagnostic or motor.

General reasons for all engines

The characteristics of the motor specified in the car's passport data are provided under certain conditions. This is the corresponding filling of the cylinders with air, which in the engine is a working fluid. This and the ability to warm it up to the desired temperature on time - to file a certain amount of good quality fuel and set it up (the pressure peak for the maximum efficiency should have at the time of the transition of the upper dead point).

DVS work cycle

Loss of engine power independently of its design becomes the result of a number of common reasons. Let's start with fuel: its quality remains a lottery, the motor is configured to a certain variety. That is, and prescribed in the injection card or the mixture settings specified by the settings can die from the ideal, and the combustion rate of the mixture changes. So, if problems appeared immediately after refueling, you know what way to watch.

Filling cylinders with air is rigidly associated with gas distribution phases. It is enough to leave the labels as the battles of the engine work will be shifted: the difference in 1 tooth is capable of significantly reduced the power of the motor. Moreover, the belt or chain is optional to leap - more and more motors are obtained by cordless pulleys, which require tight fixation of the shafts with special requirements when installed. If you do not reach the pulley, and one day it will shift from a given position. Well, if the motor simply loses cravings, and does not hit the piston by the valves that did not have time to close on time, drive them into the head of the cylinder block.

Motors with a variable camshaft gas distribution (at least one) have the ability to shift so that with sufficient pickups on the bottoms (small overlap of the phases) not to lose and on tops (the camshafts are displaced "to each other", increasing the overlap phase, which increases the power in high revs ). Possible causes by which the machine does not gain speed is the failure of the VVTi control valve or problems with phasemators' couplings. We have already disassembled this question, speaking about.

In addition, the filling of cylinders is tied to the resistance of the intake and release. To score the air filter so that he lost through the bandwidth - it should be managed, but oil emissions through the crankcase ventilation system, especially if the piston is already worn, and the oil collector is primitive, often. On the VAZ-2106, make the engine "Break oil" through the ventilation of the Carter is not difficult, and there are such cases on fresh front-wheel drive vehicles (2109, 2110, 2114). The gross air filter has dramatically resistance, hence the loss of motor thrust.

The release on carburetor cars and old diesel glands is simple, and it is enough to reduce the throughput section that the motor began to "press" exhaust gases, it is possible for a powerful blow (when moving irregularities, for example) or canonical potato - but at least immediately noticeable.

If the engine does not pull the electronic injection, then the catalyst falls under suspicion in this case. Overheating, fuel enter due to the power fault system can cause sintering its cells. Diesels with the particulate filters, the main enemy becomes a soot: the automatic burning of the filter on the move is ineffective, and at least one must perform forced regeneration.

Problems with the release easily give themselves: a stupid motor with a subsequent start-up attempt ejaches smoke into the inlet, the sound of the engine is changing, immediately "crawl" to the outlook (exhaust begins to "sch" to a damaged area).

The motor should not just get the right amount of air and fuel - it should ignite in time. On the gasoline motor, you need the appropriate ignition advance angle, diesel is an injection advance angle. Since there are no modest injection engines of a separate ignition system, the problems with the advance of ignition are primarily characteristic of the carburetor machines and old injection systems with a rubber (Japanese have such systems have been used as early as the beginning of the 2000s). Check the base argument angle adjustable to the rubber, and the operation of the protruding automata in it (when the angle, normal at idle fails, will begin to "leave" when the rotation set).

Separate case - motors where the rubber is provided with a separate pulley from the timing belt (old "Audi" and "Volkswagen"). Here, when replacing the belt, the pulley of the traver put "how will have" (there are no labels on this pulley!), Forgetting that the rubber when replacing the belt, you need to focus on the risk on the crankcase under it. After such a replacement, the car stops the car, because the ignition angles are changed. The initial injection angle is set to diesel engines with a mechanical pump, in addition, ahead controller works - they are checked according to data from the repair and maintenance instructions.

On gasoline engines We are in suspects and spark plugs: Even if the motor works normally at idle, it is not a fact that the candles will work well and under load when the pressure in the cylinders at the end of the compression tact grows, and the conditions for sparking becoming worse. It is worth putting another set for sample: without an oscilloscope, which allows you to remove voltage curves from a working ignition system, it is difficult to determine how real candle behaves under load. On the illustration below, look at the peak stresses, corresponding to the moment of sparking: in the third cylinder, the gap is excessively increased, the spark flashes on too much voltage, and its duration falls (the power accumulated in the ignition coil is not enough for normal combustion of the spark).

If we talk about compression, then in normal conditions it decreases as it is so slow that the reduction in power occurs for the driver is imperceptible. An exception is rapidly developing breakdowns (cracks of piston rings, the destruction of partitions between rings,). Simultaneously with the drop in power, the stability of the idle move sharply, the final diagnosis will definitely supply the compressometer.

As for engines with turbocharged, then on their dynamics the state of the turbocharger is well reflected. The perfect centrifugal pump (turbocharger impeller) has a quadratic dependence of productivity from revolutions: it costs turns to fall twice as the pressure will fall into four. The swallowing of the rotor due to the destruction or cunning of bearings, the burning of the "hot" impeller is the likely reason why the turbated machine does not pull. Here, as with compression, the pressure gauge will help.

Causes of power loss in carburetor motor

It costs to immediately check the fuel level and the operation of the fuel pump: "nothing up" the fuel immediately gives itself under load of loss in dynamics, sharply in the carburetor. Overflow due to the faulty locking needle of the carburetor in the same way will lead to the loss of the power engine, here the black smoke and shooting of the silencer will become a characteristic feature.

A better car dynamics is perceived during acceleration, so the possible reason for the "interference" of the machine can be the defect of the accelerator pump. The fact is that all the carburetor systems are designed to work in static modes, with a set of revolutions, the mixture is converted. To combat this transfer and serves as an accelerating pump: when pressed on the gas pedal, the diaphragm pushes a dose of gasoline through the shut-off valve into the sprayers that go into diffusers. When breaking the diaphragm of the accelerator pump or clogging sprayers, the acceleration of the car immediately worsens so much that it is difficult not to notice. Check the accelerator pump is not difficult - removing the air filter or the "turtle" from the carburetor, you need to drastically press the throttle drive: the fingers will feel the resistance (the diaphragm will create pressure in the accelerator pump), and the gasoline should be powered from the sprayers to the inlet.

In the working modes, the composition of the fuel and air mixture is set by a statically set of fuel and air jets. It is worth blowing them, and rinse with noticeable sediments with a cleaner: even if the problem is not in this, the maintenance of the main dosing system will not be superfluous.

Does not pull the injection engine

Why does the machine do not pull if the injection systems are equipped with feedback and can perform self-regulation in a "closed loop"? Alas, the possibility of self-regulation is not as wide as I would like.

The first enemy of injection systems is insufficient fuel pressure. When the fuel consumption is minimal, then the reserve of correction is enough to work at idle. But it is only worth allowing the load on the engine, as the correction will jump to the limit threshold, but the nozzles will still be "noting".

The pressure in the fuel ramp is set by three nodes: actually a fuel pump, pressure regulator and a set of filters (coarse and fine cleaning). The performance of a good gas station is at times exceeds the needs of the motor at maximum flow rate - this is done so that the pump wear is reflected as low as possible at the operation of the motor. Therefore, the fuel pressure regulator dropping the "unnecessary" fuel or immediately at the pump outlet, or from the fuel ramp after the fine cleaning filter.

In the first case, the fuel ramp is called the inept (16-valve VAZ motors, modern foreign cars), in the second - drain. The difference between these systems at the installation site of the regulator and in its work. On the drain ramps, the pressure regulators are controlled by the vacuum in the intake manifold, the pressure in the ramp varies depending on the load (with normal for VAZ 3 bar at idle it is 2.3-2.4 bar, consider it during the diagnosis!). On the unable pressure is maintained constant relative to the atmosphere and constitutes 3.5-4 bar depending on the car model. Exception - direct injection systems, where operating pressure ranges from 20 to 70 bar.

Something useful for you:

The resistance of fuel filters does not affect when measuring the pressure of the fuel "in the neck" (the pump is enabled on the muted motor, when there is no fuel flow in the ramp) and minimally at idle. But under load, an excessive increase in filter resistance reduces the fuel feed in the ramp, which will lead to a speed loss. Therefore, the pressure is measured at idle and under load (for example, overhanging the master axis and slowing down the wheels on the transmission enabled). In cases where idling is normal, and the problems goes on the go, to measure pressure only at idle (XX) is meaningless.

Stages of exception when checking:

1. Remove the coarse filter ("Mesh" at the entrance). A number of cars are a well-known problem - for example, on the second generation of "focus".
2. Replace the fine filter.
3. Measure pressure under load.
4. On motors with a drain ramp to overcertrine or drowning in a different way to eliminate the effect of fuel pressure regulator. In motors with a non-dust rape RDT module installed in the fuel pump module, it is easier to temporarily set the puis-plug from polyethylene or other material that is not destroyed by gasoline.
5. Secondary measure the pressure: if it has grown, it is necessary to replace the RDT, otherwise - replacement of the pump.

The second reason is "nothing" -. Even with normal operation of filters, the formation of sediments on sprayers over time is inevitable. It is possible to evaluate in the "home" conditions only the form of a torch sprayed by removing the ramp and srolling the motor starter (ATTENTION! This procedure is fire hazardous!). The net nozzle should be evenly "dust", and not give separate trickles or pour to the side. Assess the performance of the nozzles and compare it from the nominal only on the stand.

The loss of speakers is a consequence and excessive enrichment of the mixture. Here, blame the fuel pressure regulator cannot be installed (the pump performance, even when working without RDT, is not so high, so that the reserve of the correction of the injection ECU does not blocked the enrichment). Much more likely leakage of the nozzles (again, is checked on the stand) or failure of the sensors to which the calculation of the injection time is tied.

Here the undisputed leader is a mass flow sensor - the device is accurate, but sensitive. As pollution and aging, DMRV overestimates the test, the car begins to significantly spend fuel. As a result, the re-improvement of the mixture can no longer be adjusted by software. But such a malfunction can be seen immediately: the car will start smoking, the candles will turn black in Nagar. In motors with an absolute pressure sensor, the air temperature sensor is more likely (here it is a separate knot, while in the DMRV built-in).

On vehicles with an electronic choke, it is worth checking the operation of the servo, removing the nozzle and giving the progask from the throttle. The throttle should open evenly, without pauses and subflinking, indicating problems with the drive gearbox or (axis, faster by naigar, twisted in the case).

Video: Power lost. Power loss

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Independent diagnostics: Causes of low engine power

Poor service can lead to a reduction in engine power.

Low engine power usually means that your engine lacks power during acceleration or that your engine suddenly cannot achieve normal speed. Although the low power of the engine may mean that normal wear is gradually takes a significant portion of your car's power, this guide concerns the abnormal power loss - a failure caused by the fact that the system or component does not work properly due to a malfunction or absence of adequate service.

The status of the low power of the engine can be caused by one or more of the long list of components requiring attention. Fortunately, you can slightly narrow the list, knowing that some of the most common causes of reducing the engine power are associated with the fuel, ignition or emission system.

Regardless of whether you are dealing with a faulty detail or lack of proper maintenance, the following tests and strategies will help you restore the power of the motor. Tests belong to various systems, specific faults and conditions that are known to reduce engine power. Finally, you remind you of some important diagnostics that can be applied to your particular case. Each component mentioned or condition includes a section "What you can do" so that you can take some actions when you consider it necessary.

Systems that can cause low engine power

We will look at the system in order:

1. Ignition system
2. Fuel system
3. System of exhaust gases
4. Computer system
5. Vacuum leakage
6. Gearbox or clutch
7. Exhaust system
8. Compression

But first I'm going to list some of the very simple checks that you have to do before start testing.

Four checks that you have to do

Here are some important, but simple checks that need to be considered first.

1. If you have noticed immediately after some work has been done on your car, make sure that everything is connected back. Check if there are no weakened hoses, disconnected electrical connectors and weakened bolts, and if the fluids have been replaced, see whether suitable oil for the engine or gearbox was used.
2. . With insufficient pressure, your tires will be faster, and the car will consume more fuel to dispel the car. Check the tire pressure with a pressure gauge when the tires are cold. Pump tires for 1-3 pounds / square meters. Inch below the maximum pressure specified on the sidewalls of the tire.
3. Even (CEL) Not caught fire. You may have a waiting code that helps you determine the cause of the problem. A faulty sensor or drive can lead to the fact that the car computer (or transmission) will receive signals with incorrect voltage, as a result of which the computer will change the fuel and air mixture and takes the power from your engine (or transmission). Whatever codes you do not find, always check the chain or components specified in the fault code. It is possible that the error can force the computer to "think" about failure in another chain or component. On some vehicle models, a defective camshaft position sensor (CMP) can lead to a sudden engine power loss - the computer will most likely establish the code if it detects the problem with this sensor.
4. Many GM car models are equipped with a light engine power lamp (REP), similar to the engine check lamp (CEL). When this indicator (or both indicators) turns on, you will notice that the engine barely reacts to the accelerator. This is a terrible situation if the problem occurs while driving on the highway or in conditions of intensive movement. The most common triggers of this signal lamp are harness connecting the throttle position sensor (TPS), or TPS itself. Other problems that can trigger the REP indicator are associated with the throttle housing (including wiring), an oxygen sensor, an accelerator pedal position sensor (or wiring harness), or.

Testing eight systems that can cause low engine power

Now here are eight systems that usually help reduce energy consumption, and how you can check them yourself.

Worn or contaminated plugs slow down the engine operation

Ignition system

The sluggish behavior of the engine very often can be traced to worn or faulty parts in the ignition system. Several components in the system need maintenance at regular intervals. For example, spark plugs and spark plug wires, but you should also check the ignition coil and the ignition time. If any of these components will lead to the fact that you do not get a good spark, the engine does not develop full power

What can you do: When you feel that the engine does not pull, one of the first checks should be the test of the spark strength. Use the adjustable spark tester (theexton is an acceptable brand) to check the quality of the spark. Check for 40 kV and 30 square meters. If your spark can not overcome this gap with these settings, you may have worn wires, a weak or defective distributor, a bad ignition coil or a bad ignition control module, depending on your particular module. Check subsequent tests and refer to your car repair manual for proper diagnostics for your specific model. If you do not have a manufacturer's maintenance instructions, I strongly recommend getting after-sales service guide for your exact model.

With visual inspection of the components of the ignition system, such as the distributor cover, the rotor, the ignition coil, pay attention to carbon traces, carbon accumulation and damage (oxidation). Carbon trails are similar to small lines that are formed around these components. They can turn off the voltage passing through the system by depriving the spark plugs of the required voltage to produce a good spark. Replace them if necessary.

After checking the strength of the spark, if necessary, check the following individual system components.

Spark plug

Spark plugs can be contaminated by carbon sediments (nagar) and other chemical side products, especially if the car is not serviced in accordance with the proposed schedule.

Contaminated candles cannot give a sufficient spark to ignite the fuel and air mixture. In addition, with a large mileage, the gap between the spark contact electrodes will increase due to wear.

What can you do: Spend a visual inspection of spark plugs, check the gap between the electrodes using the probe and adjust it if necessary. In the repair or repair manual, your car has an appropriate gap for ignition candles. Your maintenance guide can help you analyze your spark plugs that can tell a lot about the status of your engine.

Just like spark plugs, spark plug wires wear out, and after many mileage kilometers, they may prevent the spark that reached the spark plugs.

What can you do: Check the resistance of each wire using a digital multimeter (DMM) and compare your readings with specifications in your repair manual. Usually you need about 5,000 ohms per foot wires. Otherwise, replace them with a high-quality set of wires.

Ignition coil

The ignition coil produces a high voltage required to be sparking in a spark between the spark plug electrodes. This voltage is usually from 4,000 to 30,000 volts, depending on the specific car model.

The ignition coils are also wearing or fail, which leads to a weak spark, intermittent spark or at all any spark.

What can you do: You can check the coil (s) of the ignition coil in your car using a digital multimeter using your car repair manual.

Ignition time

The ignition time refers to the relationship between the spark and the position of the piston in the cylinder during the working stroke.

The ignition time should be correct for proper combustion of the fuel and air mixture. When the ignition delay, you can notice an increase in fuel consumption, reduced engine power and poor acceleration.

Problems with synchronization may occur due to worn (overly stretched) or damaged timing belt or chain. Even 2 or 3 degrees of differences from the correct time can lead to problems with the operation of the engine.

On most modern cars, the ignition time cannot be adjusted directly, but you can still check time yourself. On old models you can check and adjust the time yourself.

What can you do: Check the ignition time using the time indicator and tachometer. If the distributor is used in your ignition system, if necessary, you can adjust the time yourself. Contact your car repair manual. Your manual may also contain a belt or chain service interval.

A clogged air filter will reduce the engine power.

Fuel system

Although modern fuel injection systems can have a different configuration, they all have a lot of common components, such as fuel injectors, control modules and sensors. Any of these components may fail and lead to the loss of the power of your engine.

The fuel system can deliver you as much hassle as the ignition system. When the engine does not pull, there are some details you need to check.

The engine ceases to pull the reason in the fuel filter

Over time, the fuel filter is clogged, which reduces fuel consumption and prevents the correct acceleration of the engine or leads to the loss of engine power.

What can you do: Look in your car's instruction manual or in the repair manual Schedule a fuel filter service. Even if your filter is not the main cause of the problem, replacing the filter through the manufacturer recommended by the manufacturer remove the load from the fuel pump and increase its service life.

Engine does not develop full power to check the air filter

When the engine is running, the air filter in the air purification system delays dirt, dust and other extraneous particles and removes them from the air flow entering the engine. In the end, the filter clogs. A strongly scored air filter will make your engine work much harder. You will notice this in the form of such an effect how badly pulls the engine or dramatically fell the power of the engine.

What can you do: Most car manufacturers recommend every 12 months. Therefore, be sure to check the air filter and replace it if necessary. Refer to your car or repair manual.

Bad engines check fuel injectors

The most common problem with fuel injectors, leading to the loss of engine power, is clogging. But they can also fail.

What can you do:

• On the injectors of the throttle housing (TBI) you can check the fuel spraying scheme in the injector, removing the cover from the air filter housing. Spraying of fuel should be uniform and partial spraying, following an inverted V-shaped diagram. You can add a fuel supplement to clean the slightly scored injector, or take it into your maintenance store. However, if the inner valve in the nozzle has failed, and not just clogged, you need to replace it.
• In a multi-phase fuel injection system, contaminated or scored injectors is more difficult to detect. Depending on the configuration of your particular system, you can relatively easily disconnect each of the injectors from their port to check their spraying scheme. In other systems, disassembly is a more complex process.

If you suspect dirty nozzles or have not served the injection system for a long time, try adding a fuel supplement to the fuel tank. Otherwise, you may have to pass the car to check the balance of nozzles, which measures the amount of fuel, which splashes each nozzle when power is applied.

The engine has fallen by looking for the cause in the throttle valve

Throttle malfunctions are not common, but they happen.

What can you do: You can quickly check the throttle body to ensure that the valve is the throttle plate - completely opens when the accelerator pedal is fully pressed.

• Remove the air ducts or the air filter box cover to access the throttle housing.
• Ask the assistant to fully press the accelerator pedal when the engine is turned off.
• Make sure the throttle is reacting accordingly on the pedal.
• Otherwise, adjust or fix the throttle thrust or remove the car from the valve and the throttle holes. Building can also prevent the valve valve.

Engine does not develop power Checking the fuel pressure regulator

Faulty fuel pressure regulator can skip too much fuel into the engine or too little from which a bad engine can occur.

What can you do: Check the fuel pressure using a pressure gauge. The check may indicate problems with the fuel pump (low pressure or low volume), clogged with a fuel filter or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

The exact procedure may vary from one engine model to another, but total steps are the same:

• Find the shredder valve on the fuel ramp (this is a test fitting similar to the air valve on your tires). If your model is not supplied with this valve, you can still connect the sensor directly to the fuel line using adapters (see repair manual).
• Then follow the steps described in the repair or maintenance manual, and compare the readings with the specification.

Faulty exhaust gas recycling valve can reduce the engine power.

Does not pull the engine cause in the exhaust emission system

Another possible, although not a common cause of engine power loss during acceleration is the malfunction of the exhaust gas recycling valve (EGR).

The EGR valve allows the measured amount of exhaust gases at higher idling engine turnover re-enter the engine to reduce its high temperature and harmful emissions.

When the EGR valve fails, it can be stuck in an open or closed state. If the valve is stuck (or intermittently stuck), opens or does not work properly, the most common symptoms that you will notice are a rough idle and failures during accelerationBut in other cases you simply notice the lack of engine power when you click on the accelerator.

What can you do: You can check the EGR at home valve using a manual vacuum pump.

Computer system

As part of the computer system, both the absolute pressure sensor in the collector (MAP) and the air flow sensor in the collector (MAF) affect the fuel-air mixture controlled by the computer. Usually, the car computer saves a malfunction code in memory when a malfunction is detected using any of the sensors.

What can you do: Even if the Check Engine indicator is off, it is recommended to scan the computer for waiting fault codes. The most common problem with MAF sensors is a dirty sensitive element. You can clean it using an electronic contact cleaner or MAF cleaner. Regardless of whether your car is equipped with a MAP or MAF sensor, you can check it at home. Contact your car repair manual.

Vacuum leakage can affect engine power.

Vacuum leakage or why engine power loss occurs

The leakage can occur due to a weakened, damaged or broken vacuum hose, distilled gasket or a damaged laying of the throttle housing.

What can you do: The usual technique for determining vacuum leakage is the use of rubber hose:

• Run the engine and let it work at idle.
• Using the rubber hose, put one end of the hose on the ear, and the other end to listen to various vacuum hoses.
• Trace the hoses with your diagnostic hose
• Check around the edge of the intake manifold and throttle gaskets.

The flowing vacuum hose or the gasket will make a hissing sound, and you can hear it with a rubber hose. Just be careful with moving engine parts while troubleshooting vacuum hoses.

Gearbox or clutch

If you have an automatic transmission, and you have not checked the transmission fluid lately, it's time to do it. If you have a manual gearbox, perhaps the clutch slippers.

A common symptom of low or contaminated oil for an automatic transmission is slipping. Your engine works, but your car does not move. Power is not transmitted to the wheels, creating the impression that your engine lacks power. The same can happen in a car with a manual transmission, when the grip is worn, the force does not reach the wheels.

What can you do (automatic and manual):

Automatic transmission:

• Check out the transmission oil after the engine reaches the operating temperature (drive by car or work at idle for 20 or more).
• Mock the engine and leave it for three or five minutes.
• Then pull the oil probe gearbox.
• Rag wipe the tip of the tip of oil.
• Fully insert the dipstick in his tube and pull the dipstick again.
• Give Schuu to stay on a rag horizontally.
• The oil level should be between Add and Full marks towards the end of the probe. Otherwise, add the required amount of the recommended fluid for your car model.
• Check the liquid. It must have a clear reddish color. If the color is opaque and brownish or black, or has an burned smell, replace it. Refer to your car or repair manual.

Manual Transmission:

• Light in a safe place, away from movement and people
• Install emergency brake
• Run the engine
• Set the transfer to high gear
• Slowly release the clutch pedal for two seconds (so as not to burn the clutch or flyer) and press the clutch pedal again
• If the grip is in order, the engine must stumble or stop as soon as you release the clutch
• If the grip is bad, your engine will continue to work normally

Usually water and acid are the most common enemies of the car exhaust system. But pollution, overheating of the system and large mileage can lead to air flow limit.

The most common victim of limiting the exhaust system is. In addition to failure or destruction during normal wear, internal catalytic components can melt due to overheating and contamination.

As soon as the catalytic neutralizer is drunk, you will notice a reduction in engine performance and, depending on the type of failure, a strong smell of rotten eggs overlooking the exhaust pipe.

But problems may not stop there.

What can you do:

Check your exhaust system for high oppression.

Temperature test:

• Driving about 15 minutes, Park the car in the garage and turn off the engine.
• Raise the car and secure it safely on the jack racks.
• Using a kitchen thermometer, measure the intake pipe temperature on the catalytic neutralizer (be careful, the temperature may exceed 1400F).
• Remove the temperature of the outlet pipe on the catalytic neutralizer.
• A clear difference in temperature means the connected converter.

Test rattles:
Depending on the type of the installed converter and the type of malfunction, if the catalytic elements inside the converter are broken, the converter will thunder when the rubber hammer is shuffled.

Pressure test:

• Remove the oxygen sensor in front of the converter.
• Install the pressure gauge into the threaded hole.
• Start the engine.
• Remove pressure testimony at idle and at higher speeds.
• High pressure readings indicate the connected converter or silencer.
• Disconnect the muffler and repeat the test to find an obstacle.

Vacuum test:

• Connect the vacuum meter to the vacuum hose that goes to the brake amplifier.
• At idle, open and close the throttle valve, allowing the engine to develop a speed of about 2500 rpm.
• You should see how the pressure gauge arrow dropped almost to zero, should return to the previous indication of about 5 inches of a mercury pillar (in inches of mercury) and return to the previous reading. If the arrow returns too slowly to the previous indication, you may have a faulty exhaust system.

Worn cylinders or rings will reduce the engine compression.

Compression

Poor acceleration may also cause engine compression problems. These problems are inevitable on engines with great mileage or those whose history is bad service. And as miles accumulate, more engine power is lost due to wear cylinders, rings and pistons, as well as carbon accumulation around the valves. Engine restoration may be necessary and expensive.

Your car repair manual can help you pass this test.

Recent thoughts

You can avoid many problems with low power consumption and many other problems following the proper schedule of regular maintenance. The ignition and fuel system is often the main perpetrators of the malfunction when the engine does not pull, but a number of components in other systems can also cause the same problem. This guide helps you find the source of the problem, fix it and save money.

Probably, any driver faced such a problem when the car lost the former dynamics: it accelerates for a long time, and when lifting and completely refuses to move on increased gears. In this article, we will tell you in detail what to do if the VAZ engine does not pull or pull badly, consider the main causes and troubleshooting methods.

Conditionally all types of gasoline engines can be divided into gasoline and injection. In general, their principle of action is absolutely the same, but the factors that affect engine power become different. Consider the problem of the carburetor and injection engine separately.

Not pulling carburetor engine VAZ

The carburetor is a mechanical device intended for a mixture of air and gasoline, with a further supply of this mixture into the engine combustion chamber. Problems with the lack of engine power on the carburetor are quite common and the reasons for their large set. We will try to deal with each.

• Engine power system

First of all, the loss of engine power can be hidden behind the power system. As a rule, the engine does not pull due to a lack or oversupply of fuel. The fact is that gasoline and air are mixed in a certain ratio. And if one or another element is missing - then the motor will start working unstable and stop developing the required power.

The ratio of air to the fuel should be within 15 to 1. If the amount of gasoline becomes exceeding the permissible parameters, then it will not be completely burned, and therefore reduce the engine pickup. In addition, such a change of ratios will seriously increase fuel consumption and will later lead to other engine faults.

Insufficient fuel and at all leads to "starvation". The ignition of the fuel mixture will be insufficient, and the piston will move slowly. All this is achieved properly adjusting the carburetor, the exact selection of jecles and many other factors.

It begins with the very selection of jecles. An important condition is the presence of a larger size of the gibler on the air than the gibber on gasoline. Then the setting is the float chamber of the carburetor, which should only be filled with gasoline. After that, the engine engine starts and adjusts the amount and quality of fuel in accordance with the technical literature on this model of the carburetor. If, it has reached a stable number of revolutions within 800-900 rpm, then the carburetor setting was successful.

Another power in the system is the presence of clean air and fuel filters. If the filter is too polluted, the fuel or air will pass with great difficulty, which also disrupts the composition of the mixture. Thus, filters must always be maintained in a purest state.

Check also. It is possible that it opens not completely. In this case, stop the motor and adjust the position of the throttle.

It is also possible that the gas station stopped creating the required pressure. To do this, you need to remove it and check. It is possible that it will have to change the drive and its diaphragm. There is another very common malfunction - elevated stock wear of the fuel pump. This means that in the manual it shakes well, and when the engine is started, there is a short time, then it loses the power and the motor stalls.

• Valve knot

The gas distribution mechanism also plays the last role in maintaining the motor power. If the valve, in the process of wear, lost its tightness, the gases directly into the valve mechanism will be broken from the combustion chamber. All this reduces the pressure generated in the engine cylinders, so the pistons move noticeably slower.

To restore the tightness of the valves, it is necessary to last and correct their adjustment. The essence of adjustment is to exhibit thermal gaps in their shock mechanism. The magnitude of the gaps is indicated in the reference book for the engine of the car.

In addition, the valve mechanism should work in synchronization with the crankshaft of the engine. If the opening and closing of the valves will not correspond to the position of the piston, the engine will not only pull badly, but may not start at all.

• Ignition system

Perhaps a decisive factor. Sparking should only take place in strictly specified tacks, otherwise the motor will not only pull badly, but it can overheat and work is very and not stable. If the Uzen adjustment was successful, and the motor still does not pull, and at idle does not work at all, then it makes sense to check the ignition system as a whole.

On the contactless ignition system, you must make sure that the switch is good. To do this, turn on the ignition and follow the position of the voltmeter arrow: first it must deviate to 12 volts, and after a second climb even higher. If the voltmeter is not provided for by the design of your car, then replace the switch on knowingly well and check the ignition operation again.

First of all, pay attention to the purity and density of adjacent contacts in the rubble. If everything is in order, you can go on. Run the motor and alternately pull the high-voltage wires. After each wire, listen to how the motor works. If he begins to work even worse, then there is a spark in this cylinder. If the engine work did not change, it means that you found a faulty spark plug or high-voltage cable. Checking this assumption can be performed by replacing the item on knowingly serviceable.

Improper use of spark plugs also affects the operation of the engine. Most often, the difference in candles is the gaps between the electrodes. The magnitude of the gap must match the engine, the season of operation of the car and the candle model.

Check the ignition distributor. It is possible that the resistor located in the rotor circuit burned in it. Another problem is a loose fit of the contact carbon. Try replacing it or spring.

The last problem of ignition is fuzzy operation of the Octane-corrector. In the absence of the desired discharge, the special plate is not returned to its original position. In addition, an increased backlash is observed in the system. Eliminate it and replace all faulty details. Check the tightness of the hose.

The last and most terrible malfunction is. These items are designed to reduce the friction of the piston on the wall of the engine cylinder and removing oil residues so that it does not fall into the engine combustion chamber.

The rings malfunction entails a violation of the tightness of the combustion chamber, in connection with which the compression of the cylinder is seriously reduced. It is possible to determine this at elevated oil consumption and the corresponding color of exhaust gases. In this case, only serious engine repair will help.

• Faulty exhaust system

The outlet part of the car also plays an important role in creating the desired pressure in the engine cylinders. If this pressure difference on the inlet and the release is impaired, the engine thrust may noticeably decrease. In this case, check the contamination of the exhaust system: pipes must be removed and inspect. Special attention is paid to the receiving pipe. If there are any holes in it, it will lose its tightness and becomes unsuitable for use.

If there are any extra holes or damage in the resonator, pipes or silencer, then they must be replaced by mandatory.

Badly pulls the injection engine

Part of the faults of the carburetor motor can be safely attributed to the malfunctions of the injection. This applies to the GRM mechanism, filters, ignition systems, exhaust and piston engine group.

• Fault of a gasoline pump

The main feature of the injection engine is the presence of an electric gasoline pump. It is an electric motor that creates a discharge and pumped the fuel system with a necessary amount of fuel.

Affects the stability of engine speed. After all, if it works with interruptions, then gasoline will be supplied in the appropriate amount. Most often, electrical wiring, a fuel pump relay or a contact group of an electrical circuit is to blame. In this case, it is necessary to diagnose and repair the faulty fuel pump.

Another problem of gas station is increased pollution of its filter. Check out the output pressure and compare it with normalized values. If the measurement result does not match the reference values, the fuel pump filter must be cleaned.

• Injectors (injectors)

The nozzle is called a small electromagnetic valve, which at certain times of time sprayed the fuel-air mixture into the engine combustion chamber. Engine power also depends on the correct operation of the injectors.

The diagnostics of their serviceability is performed using a multimeter. To do this, you need to check the resistance of the windings for the presence of cliff and short circuit. If their malfunction is detected, the nozzles are subject to replacement.

• Faulty sensors

Sensors are the main information collector for the operation of the electronic control unit. In the event of a malfunction of one of the sensors, the controller, without receiving the necessary information, instantly transfers the motor to the emergency mode with the inclusion of the corresponding lamp on the engine dashboard.

A faulty sensor can be calculated by electronic diagnostics at maintenance stations and replace.

• Malfunction of the ECU itself

The electronic control unit can also give malfunctions. To check its performance, it is necessary to replace it with knowingly well and test the operation of the engine. The voltage supplied to the block must be 12 volt.

Video - the engine does not pull on low revs, the car does not go in

On this topic you can write a passionate book. However, such a lot today is written: who is interested, it will definitely find and carefully read. We will try to identify the main reasons for such a disorder.

First, remember what the engine needs to work. It is necessary that the right bench-high mixture should be created on time. Therefore, if the short quality or does not come in proper quantity, then the good thrust from the motor does not have to wait. With a low octane number, the engine control system will translate the ignition advance angles to the latest (and still possible). With insufficient performance of the fuel pump or clogged fuel filter, it will be easy to miss. More on the mixing formation affects the quality of spraying fuel by nozzles. If they are clocked and do not form the correct fuel torch, then the proper composition of the mix is \u200b\u200balso not expected.

• For the proper formation of the mixture, another component is needed. And if the air filter is overly clogged, the engine control system will see the lack of air and limit the fuel supply than the power will certainly reduce the power. At the same time, the unaccounted air control system of the air control will also violate all calculations.

• Now about the initiators of burning - spark plugs and coils, providing them with high voltage pulses. If these components are at least in one of the cylinders are launch, then, unauthorized power.
• The optimal filling of the cylinders of the working mixture and timely removal of the exhaust gases depends on the correct phases of gas distribution. Therefore, the leakage of the belt or the timing chain even on one tooth will undoubtedly lead to a drop in power.

• To ensure the optimal combustion process, the mixture must be compressed. Therefore, the wear of cylinders, which reduces, the most negative impact affects the engines of the engine.
• The insufficiently warm engine produces less power not only because the viscous oil is stronger than the movement, but also because the injection system itself limits the parameters. And the motor can be underencing or temporarily, in a period of strong cold weather, or constantly - for example, with a faulty thermostat.
• The burnt mixture is necessary to delete in a timely manner, so the influence of the exhaust gas release system to the engine power is also significantly. If the resistance to the output of gases is large - no parameters from the engine do not expect. Improve resistance can either clogged or jammed pipes of the exhaust gas release system.

• What else? In addition to the engine, the car has other reasons to lose initial acne. For example, the buxing clutch is worn or incorrectly adjusted: you press the pedal, the motor responds, and the machine can crawl ... it can also joke: the most banal version is the captured parking brake.

If we missed some reasons, please add material with your considerations.