Installing the ignition on an injection Chevrolet Niva. How to set the ignition on a Chevrolet Niva injector

14.10.2023

Here we will talk about independently replacing the timing chain drive on a Niva 21214. The timing belt affects the operation of the entire car, so the importance of this unit should not be underestimated. Replacing a chain drive is a rather complicated process, which, however, can be done by any car enthusiast, provided that he follows the instructions and shows a little diligence.

A chain has significant advantages over a belt drive. These include, first of all, its reliability. While a belt can break, this rarely happens with a chain. Usually it just stretches. It lasts much longer than the belt, which means it needs to be changed less often. But still, the chain does not last forever, and after a while it also has to be replaced with a new one. When replacing the chain yourself, it is very important to set the marks correctly and follow safety precautions.

When to change the timing chain?

The manufacturer does not give clear recommendations regarding the timing of replacing the timing chain on the Niva. Experts assure that the need for replacement may arise no earlier than after 100,000 km. But it is very important to periodically carry out diagnostic procedures for chain transmission. It may well happen that the chain weakens. This will be noticeable by the characteristic sound that the running engine will make. First you need to try to tighten the chain. If this cannot be done in the usual way, a replacement becomes necessary. In this case, you can contact a service center, where this repair will be carried out by professionals, or you can try to change the chain yourself. The latter option is preferable in terms of savings and gaining the necessary experience.

If the mark on the camshaft gear does not match the mark on the bearing housing, it's time to take action. The chain drive also needs to be replaced if chips or cracks appear on it. All this suggests that your chain has served its intended life and it is time to replace it.

So, you have decided that you will make the replacement yourself. What do you need to do next? First of all, go to the store and buy a new chain there. You can check the quality of the chain you are purchasing. We take the chain and place it flat on our palms. If its sagging exceeds 1 cm, you better look for consumables elsewhere. In addition to the chain itself, you will also have to buy a set of oil seals, a tensioner, dampers, and a set of gaskets. Then we prepare the tools that will be useful in the work and begin the repair.

Replacing the chain drive

Place the car on a level surface. Open the hood. Disconnect the battery. Remove the air filter.
The choke cable should be disconnected and moved away. It is also necessary to disconnect all electrical drives and pipes.
Remove the fan, generator belt and pump roller. The belt should be thoroughly examined. If deep cracks or other damage is found on it, it must be replaced with a new one. Remove the tray protection and thoroughly clean its cover.
Remove the valve plug. Unscrew the camshaft sprocket screw.
Take a wrench and unscrew the ratchet nut.
Now we begin to rotate the crankshaft until the marks on it and on the engine casing completely coincide. Make sure that the marks also match on the bearing housing and camshaft sprockets.

7. Then remove the casing covering the motor. To do this you will have to remove several bolts. We remove the sedative. Unscrew the screw securing the oil supply pump. There is no need to remove the screw. It should only be loosened and left in place.

8. We begin to remove the tension element mechanism. We remove the MM line, remove the pressure sensor, after which you can remove the tensioner itself.
9. Remove the screw on the camshaft gear. We remove the gear. After this, remove the timing chain. At this point, the parsing process can be considered complete. Now let's assemble the mechanism.
10. We take the purchased oil seals and begin installing them in place of the old ones. First of all, we change the crankshaft oil seal. After removing the old component, clean the installation location and install a new oil seal. First, it is recommended to lubricate the new oil seal with engine fluid, for example.
11. Now we take the chain in our hands and also begin to lubricate it. After this, we put the drive on the crankshaft gear, the oil pump and then the camshaft. This sequence must be followed. When tensioning the chain, you need to ensure that the alignment of the marks is not disrupted.

12. Install the tensioner and carefully tighten the nuts securing it. We tighten the screws on the sprockets and check the alignment of the marks again. To do this, turn the crankshaft to the right again.
13. Replace the alternator belt. If the old belt is in good condition, then it is quite possible not to change it.
14. Lubricate the gasket that we will install on the cylinder head and install it. Don't forget to clean the seat from traces of the old gasket. We put the head in place and carefully tighten all the fasteners. We install all other parts in reverse.

Now let's check the operation of the mechanism. To do this, start the engine and listen to how the engine operates. By hearing it is quite possible to determine whether everything was done correctly or something went wrong. If the sound is familiar, rustling, then everything is done correctly. If there is a characteristic grinding sound, the procedure must be repeated.

Replacement video

The gas distribution system of any engine must work correctly. If problems occur in its operation, this leads to premature wear of the motor and numerous breakdowns. To accurately adjust the timing, special marks are used, according to which the shafts in the engine are aligned. We will tell you about the correct placement of marks on a Chevrolet Niva car in this article.

Why are timing chain marks set?

The engine of any passenger car has 2 shafts: camshaft and crankshaft. In most cars they are connected by a belt drive. On a Chevrolet Niva car this is a chain transmission, and a single-row chain is used there. The advantages of such a system are obvious: the chain, unlike a belt, never slips on the pulleys and lasts much longer. However, the chain can stretch over time, and the teeth on the shaft sprockets can wear out or even break. This will lead to desynchronization of the camshaft and crankshaft. Their work will not be coordinated, so the engine may fail. Therefore, when adjusting or replacing the timing chain, it is very important to align the engine shafts in accordance with the marks on the pulleys and timing case. This is not easy to do, since, firstly, the marks are located in hard-to-reach places, and secondly, they need to be set very accurately, since the chain, unlike a traditional belt, cannot be slightly tensioned if necessary.

How to install an injector on a Chevrolet Niva (with photo)

The car is installed on the inspection hole. Wheel chocks are placed under the rear wheels and the hand brake is applied.
The car hood is opened, unscrewed and the fan is removed. The radiator is also unscrewed and carefully moved to the side (it is not necessary to drain the coolant from there).
Access to the engine valve cover is provided. Its fastenings are unscrewed with an open-end wrench, then it is carefully removed. There is access to the timing chain and the upper camshaft sprocket. The shaft pulley is rotated with a special wrench until the mark on the camshaft sprocket aligns with the protrusion on the timing case.
The mark on the timing case is aligned with the mark on the camshaft sprocket
If the chain adjustment has not been disturbed, then after the previous step the lower mark located on the crankshaft pulley also coincides with the oblong mark on the timing case. If this does not happen, there is desynchronization of the tags, and regulation continues.
The lock washer holding the camshaft sprocket unbends. After this, the car is put in 1st gear (this will not allow the shafts to rotate when the fastening bolts on the sprockets are unscrewed). The 13 bolt holding the camshaft sprocket is unscrewed and removed along with the lock washer.
After removing the camshaft gear, the chain is loosened so that the tensioner roller can be removed.
The tension roller is removed, the chain can be removed
The crankshaft sprocket is removed along with the lock washer and chain. To do this, the fastening bolt is loosened by 13, the antennae of the lock washer are unbent, after which the sprocket is carefully pulled off the shaft.
If it was planned to replace the timing chain, it is replaced. If you planned to adjust the old chain, then its position on the teeth changes (in most cases it is recommended to move the chain on the sprockets in increments of one tooth).
After displacement, the upper sprocket, together with the chain, is reinstalled on the camshaft, and the lower sprocket is installed on the crankshaft. The crankshaft is turned with a special key until the oblong mark on the sprocket is opposite the core of the crankshaft position sensor as shown in the photo.
The mark on the crankshaft sprocket is precisely aligned with the DPKV core
Now a lock washer and a fastening bolt are installed on the crankshaft sprocket, which is not fully tightened. Using a key, the crankshaft is turned 3-4 full turns, while the coincidence of both the upper and lower marks is carefully monitored. If after several revolutions there are no discrepancies, the fastening bolts on both sprockets are tightened, and the lock washers are installed in their original places. The adjustment of the timing marks ends here and all engine components are reassembled.

Consequences of incorrect installation and adjustment

Characteristic extraneous clicks appear in the engine, which become louder as the vehicle speed increases.
The engine is unstable even at idle speed.
The car's acceleration time increases significantly because the engine does not respond well to pressing the gas pedal.
Acceleration occurs in jerks, during which clouds of black smoke may fly out of the exhaust pipe.
Valve wear accelerates many times over, and if the shafts are out of synchronization too much, the valves become deformed and their seats break.
Incorrect adjustment can also lead to a broken timing chain. This, in turn, can puncture the radiator, break the fan and other engine parts.
The engine constantly overheats, and the consumption of engine oil and antifreeze can increase significantly.

As can be seen from this article, correctly set timing marks are the key to long and uninterrupted engine operation. There is nothing complicated about this; even a novice car enthusiast can do it. It is important to take your time, follow the above sequence of actions, and also try not to drop the sprocket lock washers into the engine sump. Because it will be very difficult to get them from there.

On how correctly they are set Timing marks on Niva Chevrolet depends on the successful operation of the camshaft chain. Regular diagnostics and monitoring of its tension helps to prevent breakdowns in time and increase the life of the engine.

When does a belt need to be replaced?

During scheduled maintenance (if the mileage is 100 thousand km).
If the marks on the camshaft sprocket do not match the mark on the bearing housing identified during phase diagnostics.
When the pump that drives the “water pump” fails.
If the chain is damaged (wear, stretching or cracking), requiring urgent replacement and adjustment according to the marks.

Advice: if the engine does not pull and does not gain speed, you need to check the DPKV mark, timing belt and set TDC (engine top dead center) on the flywheel. Both pulleys (inlet and outlet) are placed along the marks with the chain tensioned.

Setting timing marks

Tags - These are risks and notches located on the gears of the gas distributor. For clarity, below is an example of installing a notch on a drive gear disk. It coincides with the center of the DPKV (crankshaft position sensor).

The marks on the camshaft pulley are fixed against the ebb on the bearing housing, which fixes the main shaft on the platform.

Preparing tools and spare parts for timing belt replacement

Prepare a screwdriver and wrenches for "8" "13" and "10", devices for turning the crankshaft and additional parts:

Oil seal (front)
New cylinder head gasket
Pump gasket
Tensioner
Damper bar, limiter and chain stabilizer
Sealant
Engine oil and oil filters
Coolant
Crankshaft seal
Gears

It is possible to install timing marks in a Chevrolet car efficiently if you have a reliable chain that prevents damage and stretching. If the old chain fails, you need to buy a new one.

Step-by-step adjustment and setting of timing marks

Installation of the risk on the VAZ-2123 (according to the standard) is carried out in the inspection hole. Put the car on the parking brake. Shoes are placed under the front wheels.
You need to wash the engine and fender liners.
The air filter is removed.
Drain the engine oil, unscrew the oil filter.
Drain the coolant.
The valve cover fastenings are unscrewed.
To prevent engine oil from leaking into the cylinder head area, it is recommended to replace the cylinder head gaskets.
By rotating the crankshaft pulley, marks are set on the camshaft gear and bearings.

Phase adjustment in case of mismatch

If the notches do not match, work continues:

The “whiskers” of the lock washer are bent. The fixing bolt is unscrewed using a key set to “13”, and the position of the camshaft sprocket is loosened.
The first gear on the gearbox is engaged, allowing you to avoid spinning when unscrewing the crankshaft gear bolt.
The fastener is removed with a lock washer. To prevent the bolts from falling into the engine sump, use a deep-head wrench or unscrew the bolt by hand.
Remove the chain tensioner using a screwdriver. It should be replaced if it is stretched or strained, during scheduled maintenance, after 60-80 thousand kilometers.

The camshaft sprocket is removed. If you pull it towards yourself (a distance of 5-10 cm), it will be removed along with the chain. Check for wear on the sprocket teeth, which form an inverted “V” shape. The part must be replaced if there are grooves on the leading part of the teeth.
On a working mechanism, the chain moves on the teeth. The scrolling step is one tooth.
The sprocket with chain is placed on the camshaft flange. When the chain moves on the sprocket, its holes will not line up with the pin. The crankshaft should be rotated in the specified direction until the mark and pin match.
It is important to secure the part with a bolt and washer (without tightening it completely). After turning the crankshaft twice with a special wrench, check the placement of the marks on the camshaft gear and bearings.
If the marks correspond, their adjustment has been successfully completed. The fastenings of the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are tightened tightly.

If there is a discrepancy, you must repeat the steps.

For clarity of the result obtained, it is suggested to look example in the photo.

In the upper corner is an overview of the notch placed against the DPKV core. Below is an asterisk on the flange. The dot is visible opposite the bed in the aluminum cylinder block.

Checking and installing the valve timing on a Niva Chevrolet car is carried out every time there is a suspicion of a phase failure. To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools and perform the following sequence of actions:

First of all, we dismantle the cylinder head cover.
Using a special wrench, rotate the crankshaft pulley until the mark on the sprocket matches the mark on the camshaft housing. If the chain is installed correctly, the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the timing chain cover should coincide in parallel.
If the marks do not match, then it is necessary to transfer the camshaft drive chain to one or more links. To do this, use a large flat-head screwdriver or a small chisel to straighten the petals of the lock washer of the sprocket mounting bolt.
We block the crankshaft from turning by engaging first gear and using a spanner wrench we unscrew the sprocket mounting bolt.

Remove the bolt along with the locking plate installed under it. If the plate is worn sufficiently, replace it with a new one.
Then we dismantle the timing chain tensioner.

Remove the sprocket along with the chain, then flip the link in the desired direction and put the sprocket and chain back on the camshaft flange. Secure the sprocket and rotate the crankshaft a few turns and align the marks again. If they match on the sprocket and the housing, as well as on the pulley and cover, then finally tighten the sprocket mounting bolt and tighten the edges of the locking plate.
Reassemble the removed elements in reverse order.

At this point the repair work has been completed.

Over time, parts on cars wear out and become unusable. The timing chain of a Chevrolet Niva with a 1.7-liter VAZ 2123 engine is no exception. Although the chain has a longer service life compared to the belt, there comes a time when it needs to be replaced. If the belt simply breaks when it serves its purpose, then the situation with the chain is more complicated. Over time, chains have the ability to stretch; of course, it is not noticeable at low mileage of the car, but after winding up more than one hundred thousand kilometers on the meter, you can compare and feel a significant difference in stretching. Therefore, every part has its own service life, which depends not only on time, but also on the quality of driving the car.

There is no exact recommendation for determining the timing chain stretch of a Niva Chevrolet. To find out how much it has stretched and whether it is time to change it, you need to disassemble the engine. And disassembling the engine to check stretching is quite difficult and difficult. Therefore, stretching can be determined by hearing, when the sound of a ringing rustle is heard from under the hood. This sound is reminiscent of a diesel engine, so it is easy to hear. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the mileage; if the meter shows mileage of about 150 thousand, then this definitely indicates chain wear. It's not just the timing chain that needs to be replaced. Since the timing mechanism on a Chevrolet Niva often takes on heavy loads, which cannot be said about cars with a belt, the gears are also subject to wear. After all, if you replace only the chain, then the use of old gears will lead to its eating away, which can contribute to its breaking while the car is moving. Therefore, it is necessary to change all the parts of the timing mechanism in Niva with new ones, only this will help guarantee quality and long-term operation. Plus, disassembling the engine floor to replace one part is an irrational use of time and money.

1 – limit finger; 2 – chain; 3 – tensioner shoe; 4 – chain tensioner; 5 – camshaft sprocket; 6 – chain damper; 7 – oil pump drive shaft sprocket; 8 – crankshaft sprocket. First of all, you need to purchase a new timing chain (timing chain) for the Niva Chevrolet. To ensure its quality, lay the part flat and hold it suspended. If the ends sag by more than 1 cm or the sagging is uneven, it is better to refuse the purchase - most likely, the chain has already worked. You will also have to buy: three gears - crankshaft, camshaft and oil pump;

chain tensioner shoe;

sedative;

chain tensioner Niva Chevrolet; oil pressure alarm sensor;

frontal oil seal;

valve cover gasket and pump gasket. Step-by-step instructions for replacing the timing chain of a Niva Chevrolet

I removed the radiator with fans according to the manual. He didn’t pull him out, but took him forward. I took off the alternator belt. I removed the pump. I removed the air duct. I removed the tension roller. I removed the bypass roller by snapping off the cap with a screwdriver and unscrewing the bolt. I disconnected all the connectors, pipes, and throttle cable from the valve cover to free up working space. I removed the engine boot and protection from below. Unscrewed the valve cover.

I put the car in lock mode (high range), engaged 4th gear, and put chocks under the wheels. I unscrewed the two nuts on top and 7 bolts in a circle from the timing drive cover, unscrewed the bolt on the gusset of the generator bracket, and removed the gusset. Using a mega-head with a pipe from below, I tore off the pulley nut. Unscrewed 3 pan bolts. I removed the valve cover, unbent the camshaft sprocket bolt stopper, and tore off the bolt with a 17mm head. Cover the head with a clean rag. I placed the crankshaft and camshaft marks behind the pulley, having previously unscrewed the spark plugs. I took off the pulley. He took off the lid and covered it with a clean cloth. I unscrewed 2 damper bolts and pulled out the damper. I bent the oil pump sprocket stopper and tore off the bolt with a 17mm head.

Cover removed

Timing drive cover

I dismantled the hydraulic tensioner, for which I first removed its oil line using a brake pipe wrench. I removed the hydraulic tensioner, unscrewed the shoe bolt, and removed it. I removed the camshaft sprocket, chain and the remaining 2 sprockets.

Shoe

Notice how much longer the old one is than the new one.

I used a screwdriver to pry the KV front seal out of the cover. I carefully cleaned the cover from dirt, remnants of the old gasket, and cleaned the oil seal seat. I inserted a new oil seal, lightly lubricating it with engine oil, using the old one as a mandrel and pressed it into place. I put the lid aside.

I started the tensioner shoe, resting the supporting part of the shoe on the engine wall, and with light blows of a hammer I hammered in the shoe fastening bolt (some people suggest using a round file so that the bolt can be inserted by hand, but I am categorically against it, because having previously hammered the bolt I saw that there was an exact fit and the shoe turns smoothly on the bolt without jamming or play. If you bore it, the shoe will hang on the axle), screw the bolt into place and tighten it. The shoe was moved to the wall of the engine so that it would not interfere with further installation of the chain. Installed the crankshaft sprocket. I installed the oil pump sprocket (don’t forget about the spacer and lock washers, I slightly sharpened the fixing tenon of the lock washer with a file so that it fits tightly into the sprocket groove, the tenon was bent at an angle of 90 degrees), and tightened the bolt. Lock washer

I installed the RV sprocket in the same way (check the mark, if necessary, adjust it, I use my 13 socket wrench, using it as a lever, I gently press on the lower tooth of the sprocket on one side or the other). Installed a new damper. Using a 24mm wrench, I brought the HF to TDC (the TDC mark is located on the tooth opposite the key). Put the chain on, having previously soaked it in engine oil, in the direction KB sprocket - oil pump sprocket - RV sprocket), ensuring tension along the shoulders of the KB sprocket - oil pump sprocket, oil pump sprocket - RV sprocket, while the position of the shafts according to the marks must be observed (manipulate the sprocket oil pump). The pilot installed the tensioner, having previously lubricated the gasket on both sides with sealant, and installed the gasket on the tensioner mounting studs. The tensioner was installed in place (Attention! The tensioner body should be positioned upward, i.e. the cutout through which the spring can be seen at the top. As a guide: the bent part of the pin faces towards the engine shield). Tightened the tensioner mounting nuts using the same techniques and tools as when dismantling the hydraulic tensioner. I checked the shaft marks and chain tension. (The marks must match), I pulled out the pin with pliers, the tensioner was cocked. Using a 24mm wrench, I make 4 full turns of the kv. I checked the marks. I tightened the bolts on the RV sprocket and the oil pump sprocket, using a screwdriver, bent the lock washers, and pressed the bent parts of the lock washers tightly to the bolt heads (I use a head extension and a hammer). I re-rolled the HF and checked the marks. Having lubricated the gasket on both sides with sealant, I apply it to the lid. I put the cover in place. I tighten the corresponding bolts and nuts (I don’t tighten them all the way, don’t forget about the gusset of the generator bracket). I installed the pulley in place (you can manipulate the cover to make it fit all the way). After installing the pulley, I tightened the cover bolts and nuts (don’t forget about the 3 engine sump bolts). He pulled out the valve cover. My drive belt rollers have passed 120 thousand and accordingly require replacement, I bought 2 rollers for 360 rubles, domestic rollers (INA was not in that store, time did not allow me to go to other stores. New rollers were installed. The tensioner was tightened without problems. Bypass When tightening, the roller was tightly clamped to the point of complete immobility, I (temporarily!) loosened it a little. I installed the pump in place with a new gasket and sealant. Having installed the car in lock (high range) and 4th gear, I tightened the pulley nut with a mega head. Engine assembled

Connected all connectors. Put on the drive belt. I installed the radiator and fans in place, simultaneously replacing some pipes, hoses, clamps, placing them on sealant, and then carefully stretching them. I filled it with antifreeze. The engine is ready for initial start. LAUNCH The key is to start... The sound of the engine pleasantly caresses the ear, only the noise of the belt, the slight clatter of the adsorber and the light pleasant rustle of the chain are heard. When warming up, one hydraulic valve clicks, this problem will be solved in a month, before changing the oil (as the hydraulic valve warms up, it goes silent). And then suddenly a ringing extraneous sound arose. I listen, find the area where he is coming from, turn off the engine. It turns out that this is a deflection roller (I loosened it during assembly), I touch its cover, the cover bounces off, revealing a loose bolt. The matter is clear. I tighten the bolt until it stops and put on the cover. The key is to start, the belt whistles, a small stream of smoke comes from under the belt where the roller is, the whistle stops, the roller rotates. I wait a minute and turn off the engine. I'm watching the videos. Both are turned by hand. The tensioner is in perfect order. The bypass is normal, but on the back side at the end there is a plastic border left after the belt initially turned it with a whistle. I remove the border. I start it, watch it, listen, and monitor the temperature. 15 minutes of work - normal flight. I'm jamming. I install the radiator grille, engine boot, protection. The car is ready for use. I start it up, drive it out, test drive it. I'm happy as a boa constrictor, I don't remember such an engine sound for a long time. The engine is torquey, i.e. Everything is fine with the OZ. I am happy and satisfied with the work done. The time is 03:00 (night or morning, which is absolutely the same). I clean up the garage a little, pack up my tools and go home. I'm home at 4:30 am.

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